WITH THE GODS ON By Aristides E. Phoutrides and Francis P. Farquhar

ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHORS

Olympus—hark !—and Kissavos, the brother quarrel. Which of the two shall throw the rain, and which shall throw the snow; And Kissavos does throw the rain; the snow, that throws Olympus.

To Kissavos Olympus turns and speaks to him with anger: "Chide me not, Kissavos, Turk-trodden, shameless ! On thee a faithless breed, 's Turks are trampling; Oljonpus am I! Great of yore, and in the world renowned! My peaks are forty-two, my fountains two and sixty; On every peak there flies a flag, 'neath every branch rest Klephtes; And yearly, when the springtime comes, and when the young twigs blossom. My warring Klephtes cUmb my peaks—the slaves may fill my valleys. Mine is the golden eagle, too, the bird of golden pinions,— Look!—perched on the cliff he stands and with the sun converses: 'Sun mine, why from the early morn sendest thou not thy sunbeams? Strike with thy Ught! Why must I wait tiU noon to warm my talons?'" —Translation of a folk-song known all over , and sung in every country district, whether in or , or in Central Hellas or the Peloponnesus.

SNY one travelling across mountain kings battle against each other. the plain of Thessaly It was this spectacle that suggested to the in the vicinity of Larissa ancient Greeks the world-war between cannot help being im­ the Olympian gods and the Titans of pressed with the sharp Ossa; and to their modern descendants contrast between the two the strife of an animate Olympus with mountains that rise in the northeast. To an animate Kissavos, as they have now the left the majestic range of Olympus called Ossa. flings its huge buttresses far out from glit­ tering snowy crests that tower to a height In the spring of 1914 we had come of almost 10,000 feet. (The height of north from Athens and Central Greece to Mount Olympus, the loftiest peak of the behold with our own eyes these famous Balkan peninsula, is generally given as mountains. We had scaled the heights 2,985 metres, or 9,794feet. of Parnassus, and had seen the splendid is 1,953 metres, or 6,407 feet, in altitude.) peaks o' Helicon, Korax, Erymanthus, To the right, beyond the depression that and others of classic fame. We hardly marks the , rises the grace­ dared hope to climb the peaks of great ful pyramid of Ossa, untouched by snow, Olympus, but were nevertheless eager to and lacking the splendor of its northern see them and perhaps go a little way. neighbor. One might well liken them to We first saw Olympus one afternoon as two kings: Olympus, a warlike sovereign we were returning to Larissa from a visit surrounded by puissant lords; Ossa, an to the Vale of Tempe. The clouds that elegant monarch of a more peaceful coun­ had hidden it from us in the morning had try, reigning supreme over humble sub­ lifted, and the sun now ghstened upon jects. the snowy arches that seemed to span the When the storm-clouds gather over the horizon. It surpassed even our greatest mountains and their forests pipe to the expectations. We were filled with enthu­ fury of the reckless winds, and when the siasm and a determination to explore the lightning snakes dart about them and summits, which promised sights truly fit the thunder shakes their aged summits, it for the gods. is no wonder that the peaceful dwellers of In Larissa that evening we eagerly dis­ the plain are led to believe that the two cussed the project. We had little to guide 5S8

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED Photo^rafh by Frajicis P. Pnrqu^^r, IQ14. The wide-spreading plane-trees are among the most delightful features of the Vale of Tempe. Their branches overhang the waters of the silvery Peneius.

US, for in Athens we had made no in­ we headed for the long range of hills that quiries about the mountain, and in La- form the northern barrier of the Thessa- rissa we could find no one who knew any­ lian plain. It was a beautiful day, and a thing about it. All that we could learn splendid scene lay before us. In the fore­ was that it would be very dangerous: ground were green fields of newly sprung there were bandits in the ravines, there grain, splashed with bright purple and were many wolves, and the snow was yellow flowers, with here and there a deep and impassable. No one had heard group of dark-red poppies. Beyond were of any one climbing the mountain, and no the hiUs, and above them towered Ossa one had any idea as to how to approach and Olympus, splendid in the morning it. Our only aid was a fairly accurate light. Toward noon we passed through map published by the Royal Military- the little village of Turnavos, and emerg­ Geographic Institute of Vienna. A care­ ing from its narrow streets we encoun­ ful study of this map seemed to indicate tered a motley caravan of Turks, their two possible routes: one by the Vale of women's faces carefully swathed against Tempe and along the coast of the Gulf of the glance of the stranger. Shortly after­ Salonica to the viUage of Litochorons; ward we began the long, winding ascent the other by way of Melouna Pass and of Melouna Pass. the viUage of Elassona on the westerly We were now on the threshold of new side of the mountain. We determined Greece. Untfl the recent Balkan War upon the latter as seemingly the more di­ these hiUs marked the boundary between rect. The remainder of the evening we Greece and Turkey. Once before, in spent in negotiating for a carriage and 1897, Greece had endeavored to push this in purchasing some dates and bread and boundary northward, but had met with cheese. This was the fuU extent of our dismal failure in battles fought on the very preparations for what proved to be a for­ fields through which we had just passed. midable and arduous undertaking. But in the war of 1912 Greece was more Early the next morning we left Larissa successful. In the latter part of Octo­ in a dilapidated open carriage drawn by ber, during the first week of that war, two stringy horses that were scarcely a the Greek army stormed over Melouna credit to a region once famous as the home Pass from Larissa, driving the Turks from of the centaurs. Passing out of the town. their frontier outposts. The Turks made VOL. LVIII.—61 559

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED 560 With the Gods on Mount Olympus a brief stand at Elassona, but, seeing contending armies. Here fell the first that they were about to be surrounded, victims of the war, and here they rest they fled to the Pass of Sarantapouro, now in the little graveyard just outside twenty miles to the northward. Here of the town. On a simple wooden cross the Greek army, under Crown Prince marking the grave of the first officer killed Constantine, advanced upon them and a we read four verses. No known poet has pitched battle ensued. Sarantapouro has written them: they are a fragment from been reputed from ancient times to be an the lore of a people who live close to the impregnable defensive position; so when very sources of the Fountain of Pieria: the report was sent out that the Greeks had captured it in two days it was re­ "Light be the earth on thee: ceived with incredulity. But confirma­ Light like the leaf of the olive-tree, tion foHowed almost immediately, with Like the tear on a virgin's cheek; the undeniable news that the Greek army Yea, light Hke a dew-drop in spring." had occupied the village of Servia on the In the approaching twilight we ascend­ north side of the pass, had crossed the ed to the ancient monastery of Panaghia, Vistritza River, and was on its way to or the Most Holy Virgin, that overlooks Verria and Salonica. the town. Mounting the well-worn steps, Thus in one week was set free an in­ we had a beautiful view of the surround­ tegral part of Greece which for many cen­ ing country. Below us lay the plain, in­ turies had been under the domination of evitably suggesting the dry bed of some alien races; and with this district there prehistoric lake—now green with fields was restored to the Greek dominions one of grain and groves of mulberry-trees. of the most illustrious landmarks of an­ Beyond, to the west and north, stretched tiquity—the majestic Olympus. the long line of the Pindus and Cambu- Unvexed now by the formalities of a nian Mountains. And as we reached the Turkish custom-house, we crossed freely monastery there came into view in the into this newly liberated territory. We opposite direction great Olympus him­ rapidly descended the northern slope of self, near at hand now, so that we could the pass and, passing through the village see the deep ravines that penetrate to the of Tsaritsane, soon came to Elassona. very heart of the range. Ages have looked As we alighted before an inn in the mid­ upon the mountain from this point. For dle of the town a curious throng gathered the hill on which now stands the mon­ about us. Bakers left their ovens and astery of the Holy Virgin was once the cobblers their lasts to ask us the old Ho­ citadel of a very ancient city, adorned meric questions: with temples of other gods. Through "Whence came you?" more than three thousand years this spot "Whither are you bound?" has not even changed its name. In the "What may be your names?" time of Homei: it was known as the "And what land claims you for its "White City Oloosson," inhabited by own?" Lapiths and ruled over by their famous Presently came two young men who king, Polypetes {Iliad, II, 739). Yet, surprised us by addressing us in English. ever young and ever beautiful, the moun­ They had been in America—one in Florida, tain on which were born the gods of an­ the other in Manchester, New Hampshire cient Greece stands through the centuries, —and had come back to Greece to serve in still a king among mountains, sending the war. They welcomed us to their na­ forth its songs and myths, its legends and tive town, and cordially offered to show its heroes. us its points of interest. Leaving our Returning to the village, we continued knapsacks—our only baggage—at the inn, our inquiries about how to reach the we accepted their offer and strolled down mountain. We now first learned of a through the steep streets of the pictur­ small monastery, known as Hagia Trias, esque little town to a quaint, humpbacked (or Hagia Triada), which means Holy bridge that spanned a lively stream. Our Trinity, situated at Sparmos, close to friends told us of the battle that had been its very base. There, we were told, we fought here a year and a half before, and might find a lodging for the night. One pointed out the positions occupied by the of our Greek-American friends was able

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED Photograph by Francis P. Fargiiha In the heart of the Vale of Tempe. Steep cliffs of the Lower Olympus form its northern wall. A railroad has lately been opened throui^h the grorge, giving access from Larissa to the -^gean Sea. During the past year this road has been extended to Salonica.

to direct us to this spot, as he had often under the name of Diava, flows into the hunted game on the slopes near by. From river of Elassona, the ancient Titaresios. him we received our first encouragement. Here we encountered a flock of goats He had never attempted to go to the top scattered among thickets of prickly holy- of the mountain, but he believed that it oak and mastich bushes along the steep might be done from Hagia Trias. Our banks of the stream. Down below a shep­ chief difficulty, in his opinion, would be herd boy watched us approaching. We the snow. Wolves were very scarce, he called to him in the language of Athens, said, and not to be greatly feared, except "Chairete!" which means "Rejoice!" perhaps at night. He knew of no bandits Seeing that he was puzzled, we ad­ or robbers now that the Greek Govern­ dressed him with a greeting more familiar ment was in control. Before the war to the peasants: "Health be to thee!" there might have been danger from that "Health to you, too!" he cried; and source. then wanted to. know what our first word Early the next morning we left Elas- had meant. When he heard that it was sona on foot. From the brow of the hill just another manner of greeting he an­ that overlooks the village our path led swered: through many little ravines and over "We can't learn such good manners all many ridges, until it descended to the at once. The Turks frightened us so banks of a stream which takes its source around here that we hardly dared talk." from the foot of the great mountain and, "You must be happy now," we replied. S6i

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED 562 With the Gods on Mount Olympus

"Ah, 3^es, thank God, we can now its heart. We now began to feel some- breathe without fear. It was another thing of the mystery of the place—a spot thing when the Turk was here—you lived, which even before the dawn of history and you hated every day you lived." was renowned as a holy^ shrine. For on He expressed his regret that he was these very slopes must have been cele­ not anywhere near his fold that he brated the rites of Pelasgian Zeus, intro­ might "befriend us" with milk. duced into this region by the Perhebians, Not long after­ who, according to ward we came to a TT Homer, "cultiva­ primitive flour- ted the fields by mill, where we the lovely Tita- found an old man resios" (Iliad, H, of whom we in­ 751). This was in quired the way. a period so remote His voice was very that it seemed a weak, and sounded legendary age even as if it came from to those whom we far away—from are accustomed to another age almost. call the ancients. Evidently he had Here, then, in old little opportunity times came pil­ to speak in the grims to worship at beautiful but de­ the shrine of their serted land where highest divinity; he lived. He knew and here again in neither reading nor a more modern age writing, but he as­ have come pilgrims tonished us when, to worship at the after the introduc­ shrine of the Holy tory questions, he Trinity of the sat by us and can­ Christian religion. didly asked: Phoiograjih by Fra}icis P. Farqtthar, igi4. Mounting up­ The monastery of Hagia Trias, or Holy Trinity, ward through the " You are people at Sparmos, situated on tiie lower slopes of the cities and of Olympus. open forest of oaks, you may know we came at length more about the world than we out here. to a winding path paved with large, fiat They say there is war now in America. stones. We followed this, and in a few Whom do they fight, and what for?" minutes were before the gate of the mon­ Yet it was only a few days since the astery. The entrance was through an episode had occurred that led to the oc­ arch in the high wall that everywhere else cupation of Vera Cruz by United States ran around the enclosure, unbroken save troops. The old man was anxious to by small, barred windows high above the know how this war would affect the reach of man or beast. We knocked, Greeks in America. and in a few moments there came to re- " For war is a bad thing," he concluded, ceive us a tall, brown-bearded monk with "in spite of all the blessings that it has kindly brown eyes. brought us here.' 'Thy blessing, father," we asked. Then he showed us the direction we "The blessing of the Lord be upon should take in order to reach the mon­ you." astery. "We have come to visit the country Continuing our way across the valley, round about, and ask for your hospital­ we came to a group of rough stone huts ity." and a square, high-walled sheepfold, and " You are welcome. Command us." presently began to enter the forest and He led us into the courtyard and up at the same time to ascend. We were a flight of stairs into the "xenon," or entering the great gorge that we had seen strangers' room, large and bare, with two from Elassona, splitting the mountain to windows closed by iron bars, suggesting

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED Photograph by Frcincis P. Fayqiihu?-, 2gi4. The monks of the monastery of Hagia Trias at Sparmos. Father Auxeutius, Father Nicephorus the abbot, Father Cyril, and the lay reader, standing before the chapel entrance. The slab of wood at the lett is the chapel " bell."

rather a prison cell than a guest-chamber. The three monks entered the chapel Our host, whose name was Father Auxen- and took their places. Father Auxentius tius, left us for a moment and returned led the service, standing before the altar, with two other monks—the abbot, Father a stole of red brocade about his neck, Nicephorus, a fine old man with white with silken tassels and gold ornaments. hair and beard, and Father Cyril, a small The abbot sat upon his throne by the man, black of beard, but kind of heart: as right choristers' stand, and by his side we soon found. stood Father Cyril. The left choristry The abbot repeated the welcome to the was taken by a layman who served in the monastery, and then called a boy, who monastery. Small tapers shed a soft presently brought in a tray with coffee light over the frescos and paintings: and masticha, a light cordial used every­ everything seemed old, very old, as if where in Greece. We drank and con­ time had stood still in this ancient place versed for a few minutes, and then the of worship. And indeed the years have monks excused themselves, as the hour for brought but few changes here. The the Angelus had arrived. They seemed psalm-books from which we read were much pleased when we asked to be pres­ a century old; the paintings upon the ent at the service, and led the way to the walls dated from the seventeenth century; little chapel which stood in the middle of the abbot's throne, inlaid with mother- the courtyard. The rough, whitewashed of-pearl in Byzantine designs, was much exterior was without ornament, save over older; the building itself must have been the door, where was painted a rude fresco almost contemporary with the found­ with a lantern hanging before it. At one ing of the monastery a thousand years side of the entrance a rounded slab of hard­ ago. wood rested on a stone support. As we The service was that of the Orthodox • came into the courtyard, Father Auxen- Greek Church, dignified and simple. The tius, who had preceded us, took a wooden dim light of the tapers, the smoke from mallet and struck rhythmically on this the censers, the fragrance of the offering slab for a minute. It was the chapel bell. —all conduced to heighten the Old World 563

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED 564 With the Gods on Mount Olympus atmosphere of the place. We were pro­ boys," he said, "and my eyes have seen foundly impressed with the sincerity of many things. We are ignorant in other the monks and the devout spirit of the things, but we know what suiiering is. three or four shepherds who attended the Every white hair that I have can tell you service. Reverently we joined in their a story. Thirty years! how many months psalms and in their prayers. and weeks and days do they make? At the end of the service Father Auxen- Every day came with cares; every day tius led us to a terrace outside of the mon- went with cares. Bandits ran wild all over

Photograph by Fra7tcis P. Fargiihar, iQ14. As we mounted higher and higher other pealis began to come into view, springing from the ground full-grown, Hke the armed men of Cadmus.—Page 573. astery commanding a beautiful view of the mountains. Often they would knock the valley of Sparmos and the mountains at the gate at night. What could we do ? beyond. We watched the shadows deepen Refuse shelter? They had guns and in the ravine as all things bowed before cruel hearts, too. They might burn the the "reigning" god of the day. Among monastery and burn us alive. So we the Greeks the sun does not" set" when he gave them shelter. They drank and ate reaches the western horizon; he "reigns." and went away. Then the Turks came Supper was served soon after sunset. to punish us. They bound me and my Black bread, cheese, yaourt (a universal men; they flogged us and dragged us to Greek dish made from sour milk), warm prison, with bound hands like criminals. goats' milk, and wine comprised our fare. Flogged us! If I should bare my back We ate alone in our little room, but when you would still see the marks. There you we had finished the abbot came to visit us, have thirty years. Wouldn't your hair with Father Auxentius and Father Cyril, grow white, too?" and the chief herdsman of the monastery, "But now, at last . . ." John Phteriotes. The subject of the con­ " Now, glory be to God! It is good for versation was mainly the change in the those who will live after us. The Lord regime since the last Balkan War. The has heard our prayers. With all our suf­ abbot told us of the sufferings that he and ferings we shall at least die happy." the people of the neighborhood had to go A boy brought in two comforters and through under the Turks. laid them on the straw mattresses that "I have lived here thirty years, my were stretched upon some wooden benches

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beside the walls. The abbot rose and the slippery. As we neared the crest of the others with him. ridge we came upon a multitude of flowers We lay down to sleep, and it might have that retarded us even more than the steep- been a fine sleep had not a whole company ness, for it was impossible to pass by the of ill-mannered rats chosen to carry on most beautiful violets we had ever seen

Photograjih by Frannis P. Farquhar, Igi4. In the courtyard of the monastery of Hagios Antonios at Demirades. This monastery is in tlie village and is on the main highway from Thessaly into Macedonia. It has been badly treated through the centuries and is much run down. In this picture the monks are superintending the shearing of the sheep. some active exercises behind the parti­ without pausing to delight in their color tions. Such is the price of antiquity. and fragrance. A morning breeze rolled down from On the following day, April 30, 1914, the snowy summits above us; sunbeams we climbed Mount Olympus. We rose glanced upon the heights and flooded the before daylight and nibbled a little bit of hiUs and plains below: the glories of the bread and cheese for our breakfast. We day had begun. We were now on the had no mountaineering equipment other crest of a long ridge that mounted by easy than stout shoes and light hearts. One of grades toward the higher parts of the us carried a small rucksack containing a mountain. About half past seven we camera and some bread, cheese, and dates. came to a fountain, where a stream of pure It was four-thirty o'clock as we left water gushed forth from a waU of masonry the gate of the monastery and descended into a long trough. An inscription chis­ the paved path to the bed of the ravine. elled in the stone recorded the date of its We stumbled along in the semidarkness, erection, which, surprising enough in this cautiously following a wood path leading land of antiquity, was no longer ago than northward toward the massive mountain. the previous year. Near by were some As the light gave sureness to our steps we circular walls, evidently sheepfolds, well advanced more rapidly, and after about an protected against the winds—or possibly hour and a half came to a place where the the wolves. Not long afterward we en­ ravine split in two. Taking the branch countered a patch of snow, and soon were to our right, we followed it for a httle at the highest line of vegetation. way, and then began to climb out onto the The way now became steeper and the ridge at our left. For some time now we rocks and snow made progress more dif­ had not been on the path, but we had no ficult than it had been over the open pas­ difficulty in making our way. The climb ture-lands below. As we pressed onward up the wall of the ravine was an arduous we eagerly watched the sky for signs of one, as the ground was very steep and cloud. During the past few days the

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED With the Gods on Mount Olympus 573 summits had been cloud-capped for most then summoned our strength for the last of the day, clearing only toward evening, thousand feet of our climb. We had This morning, however, had begun with decided to ascend the peak immediate- such a clear sky that we hoped that the weather might have changed. Yet even as we watched there suddenly developed out of the blue air a puff of white, floating like a downy feather over the heights to our right. It was the beginning. During the next hour white mists gathered from every quarter, now gently drifting across the sky, now silently sweeping down upon the snow-fields. Steadily we plodded on and up, seldom resting, eager to gain the summit ere the threatening clouds became too dense. We could already see Mount Olympus. Drawn by W. Purser and engraved by E. Finden. rounded peaks towering on Published, 1833, by J. Murray, London. either side of us, while di­ rectly ahead rose a cone-like crest that ly in front of us, as it seemed to occupy we believed must surely be one of the a central position and was apparently loftiest of the range. And now as we connected with the other parts of the range by high ridges, or cols. It was ten o'clock when, at last, with a shout of tri­ umph, we stood upon the summit and looked off at the superb panorama before us. It was the first of the magnificent scenes that we were to behold that day. We were indeed at the very centre of the range. And now we knew why in the old folk-song Olympus boasts of two and forty peaks. There they were, rank on rank: some glistening with snow, others thrusting up black crags of rock into the swirl­ A sixteenth-century conception of tlie Vale of Tempe and Mount ing clouds that on all sides Olympus and Mount Ossa. threatened to overwhelm the It is by the celebrated Flemish geographer, Abraham Ortelius, who was born and died ill Antwerp, 1527 to 1598. It is dated 1590. The view is supposed to be from the mountain. ^gean Sea looking westward through the Vale of Terape, with Ossa on the left and Olympus on the right. In front of us, below a snowy amphitheatre, there mounted higher and higher other peaks yawned a tremendous gulf, splitting the began to come into view, springing from range into two distinct parts. We now the ground full-grown, hke the armed perceived that the peak upon which we men of Cadmus. stood was but a slightly more elevated We paused for a few photographs, and portion of a broad ridge that connected

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED Mount Olympus, as seen from the Pass of Sarantapouro—looking southeast. The highest snow-clad peaks are scarcely visible. the two parts of the range, welding them foot upon firm rock there burst upon us into a great horseshoe. Moreover, it with the final step a scene that made us was apparent that we were not upon the cry out in amazement. We were upon very highest point; for near by, both to the very brink of a terrific precipice. For the right and left, stood peaks that were a thousand feet or more it fell; then unquestionably higher—not much higher, dropped down, down, in steep terraces to to be sure, but enough to place the matter the distant plain far below. To our right beyond doubt. We were eager to push the ridge now appeared as a sharp knife- on, but whither should we turn? Anx­ edge extending in a curve to two great iously we watched the summits, snatching towers of black rock that closed the view glimpses as the clouds rolled and shifted. to the east; while in the vast abyss be­ At one time we felt sure that among the tween, misty clouds rose and fell like va­ group to the south lay the supreme point, por from some huge caldron. but as we were about to set out in that For a while we watched this awesome direction a clearer view of the more rugged scene, but we were still not satisfied that and spectacular peaks to the north de­ we were on the highest peak. Yet in the cided us, and without further hesitation swirling clouds we could discern nothing we turned and hastened toward them. higher, unless it might be the black tow­ From our observation peak we glissaded ers before us. At aU events they were down on the snow to the lower part of the most spectacular points we had seen,. the col, and then began slowly to mount and we resolved to have a closer look at again over a series of rounded crests that them. Accordingly, we pushed on along led us in a semicircular course to the the knife-edge to a point where it turned westerly or left-hand end of the ridge, sharply to the right and began to descend. shown in the illustration on page 567, Here a narrower and slightly lower ridge which we reached in about an hour and ran over to the nearer of the two towers, a half. ending abruptly at its base. We exam­ As we toiled up the last hundred feet ined it minutely, estimating the difficul­ over the rough shale and softening snow, ties of traversing it and climbing the rocks we little realized what a surprise was in beyond. We felt sure that with care it store for us. So far this peak had seemed, could be accomplished; but for several like the others over which we had passed, reasons we hesitated. In the first place, a rounded crest with only shghtly steeper it was getting late. The clouds were shut­ sides. But when at the very last we put ting in more and more, and already a con- 574

PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED With the Gods on Mount Olympus 575 siderable portion of our return journey preme crest. We are inclined to agree with Doc­ was shrouded in drifting mist. This tor Cvijic, although, as far as we know, the sum­ mits have never been accurately measured. meant a long and perhaps difficult task Subsequent investigation has also disclosed the ahead of us ere we could reach shelter. fact that very few attempts at an ascent of Mount Then, too, we were beginning to tire from Olympus are on record. The first attempt of our exertions; for we had been going al­ which we have been able to find any record was by the English diplomatist, David Urquhart, in 1830. most constantly for eight hours, and in He started from Hagia Trias, but evidently kept that time had ascended some eight thou- too far to the east, as he admits seeing higher peaks

Mejai l Santo Mikrt Isto Prof.Ilias Tris Pipes Kazanja Scholion Kazanja ehristaSi

The northerly side of Olympus. From a tracing of a sketch in " Grundlinien der Geographie und Geologic von Mazedonien und Altserbien." Von Doctor J. Cvijif, Professor an der Universitiit Belgrad. Gotlia, rgoS. sand feet, and this with but scant nour­ beyond, across a great chasm. In 1856 the French archaeologist, Leon Heuzey, ascended the peak ishment. It would require full strength called Hagios Ilias from the eastern side of the and nerve to cross the narrow pass, which mountain. He called this the highest point, and we could see was treacherous with loose his error hais persisted in a few guide-books and rock and brittle snow-combings. But books of reference up to the present time. Heuzey what finally determined us to abandon the made valuable contributions to the archaeological knowledge of the region,but his inaccurate account attempt was the doubt in our minds of the summits of Olympus has been misleading whether these rocks were, after all, any to subsequent climbers. Doctor Heinrich Earth, higher than the peak we had just left. A the German explorer, attempted an ascent in 1862 doubtful summit was hardly worth the from the village of Kokkinoplo. He proved that the peak of Hagios lUas was not the highest, but risk. So we looked wistfully across the was unable to reach the higher peaks. In 1856 few feet that intervened and at length the Reverend Henry Fanshawe Tozer, an English­ reluctantly turned back. man, following Heuzey, ascended Hagios Ihas, and from there plainly saw several higher sum- • [Two days later, as we looked back toward the mits to the southwest. These were unquestion­ mountain from the Pass of Sarantapouro, it seemed ably the ones described by Doctor Cvijic. Doc­ to us that this peak of ours was, after all, a trifle tor Cvijic himself did not ascend the mountain, higher than either of the black towers. Doctor nor have we been able to discover any record of an Cvijifi, of the University of Belgrade, Serbia, with ascent since the time of Tozer, although it is not whose work on the geology of Macedonia we sub­ impossible that others may have made the at­ sequently became familiar, had a nearer view of tempt. A French guide-book mentions an ascent the northern side of the mountain from across the by a M. Gorceix in i86g, but we have not been defile of Petra. From his point of view the two able to find any further account of it. In 1911 En­ black towers appeared as three, which he calls the gineer Edwart Richter, of Jena, Germany, was "Tris Pipes." The peak that we ascended is preparing to make the ascent from Kokkinoplo shown on his sketch as Santo Scholion, and appar­ when he was captured by bandits. For over ently seemed higher to him than the " Tris Pipes." three months he was held in captivity, during Farther to the southwest on this same sketch is which time the Turkish Government made stren­ shown another peak," Isto Christadi," named, says uous efforts to effect his release. The bandits ac­ Doctor Cvijic, for a Klepht who was killed in bat­ cepted several large sums of money in ransom, tle. This peak he calls the highest summit of but each time craftily managed to retain their Olympus. We saw this peak and passed within prisoner. The story reads more like a tale of a a few hundred feet of the top of it on our way to hundred years ago than an event of the present " Santo SchoKon," and could easily have reached day, but its truth is fully attested.—See Urqu­ its summit had we suspected that it was the su- hart, David, "The Spirit of the East." London, VoL. LVIII.—62

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1838; Heuzey, Leon, "Le Mont Olympe et I'Acar- off into the north to the borders of Serbia nanie." Paris, i85o; Barth, Doctor Heinrich, "Reise durch das Innere der Europaischen and Albania. It was a wild, rugged scene, Turkie." Berlin, 1864; Tozer, Reverend Henry easily suggesting to the mind the scenes Fanshawe, " Researches in the Highlands of of blood and strife that were being enacted Turlsey." 2 volumes. London, 1869; CvijiC, even at that very moment in the region Doctor J., " Grundlinien der Geographie und Geologie von Mazedonien und Altserbien." just beyond, where Greeks and Albanians Gotha, 1908; Richter, Ingenieur Edwart, " Meine were striving for possession of the villages Erlebnisse in der Gefangenschaft am Olymp." of northern Epirus. Leipzig, 1911.] For a long time we had been so absorbed in watching the ever-changing splendors And now new glories began to unfold of the cloud formations, and in the phys­ before us, as if in conapensation for what ical exertion of the ascent, that we had we had foregone. A change was taking almost forgotten the significance of the place all over the mountain top. The noble mountain upon whose crest we wind was beginning to tear apart the en­ stood. But there now occurred an event veloping clouds and to Kft them high in so strikingly appropriate, so perfectly sym­ air. Already, toward the south, peaks bolic, that we could scarcely believe our were coming into clearer view that hith­ eyes. As we leaned over the brink of the erto had been but dimly seen. And here precipice and gazed into the vast amphi­ for a moment we had a glimpse of Ossa, theatre beneath, there suddenly flew out far away, just raising its pointed cap from the cliff two eagles. Off over the above the massive southern wall of Olym­ great void they sailed, then plunged into pus. It was a welcome sight, for it gave a bank of cloud and were lost to view. us an unmistakable landmark and at the What else could it mean but that Zeus same time a standard of comparison by himself, with Hera, his regal consort, had which we knew that we were well above come forth to see what mortals dared in­ the opposite part of the range and un­ trude upon their heavenly abode! And questionably on one of the very highest as we looked upon this sign all thoughts parts of the mountain. The greatest of highest peaks and precise locations van­ changes, however, were taking place close ished from our minds and all weariness about us, and in the region to the north. and hunger left oiu: bodies. We were in Where a short time before there had been the very sanctuary of the immortal gods great masses of cloud, there now remained and we seemed to become immortal our­ only a few torn shreds, clinging to the selves. Beautiful Hebe poured nectar jagged ridges or hanging like pale ghosts even for us, and the drink was so sweet in limbo. Farther away, at a lower level, and so strong that the tears came to our there floated over the region of ancient eyes—tears of pure happiness; for it was Pieria a flock of fluffy white cloudlets, given to us to behold sights that few if driving along before the breeze like sheep any among mortal men have ever beheld. on the way to pasture. Now and then Indeed, the only one who ever truly saw they would separate enough to disclose these glories was the blind poet of the an­ here and there the wooded hills and cient epics, a poet whose eyes were blind valleys beneath. Encouraged by these to all transitory shadows, but wide open glimpses, we peered eagerly through the to the radiance of all eternal things. clouds farther to the east, hoping to see With the aid of his undying words we the waves of the blue j<^gean. On a tried now to conjure up before us the clear day we would have been able to see heroic episodes enacted on these broad across the Gulf of Salonica to the ­ summits. We beheld the banquets of the like Chalcidice, with tipping gods and attended their councils. Out its easternmost prong. But for us the of the clouds to the east we saw Thetis, whole world in that direction was screened mother of the mighty Achilles, rising from off by an unbroken sea of cloud far too the ^gean Sea: dense to give any hope of vanishing. But toward the west the view was rapidly im­ "Out from the deep . . . she came proving. We could now catch glimpses And climbed Olympus to wide heaven, and there of far-away mountain ranges, extending Found wide-seeing Zeus, who from the others far

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On many-ridged Olymptis' topmost peak Sarantapouro. During the day we saw Was throned. ..." many signs of the battle of the preceding Before him she knelt and made her year: torn shreds of clothing and broken prayer to the son of Kronos, and equipment, and on either side of the road long mounds of earth marked the fiercely "... with, his dark brows contested passage of the "iron gates" He nodded; down the locks ambrosial streamed that guard the entrance into Macedonia. From that undying head; while all the peaks Of high Olympus shook with awful sovmd. . . . It was evening as we wearily trudged into Then Thetis sprang from the resplendent crest the half-wrecked village of Servia and Olympian to the deep sea. . . ." sought out the xenodocheion, or inn. The —Iliad, Book I (Lewis's translation). next morning we secured horses and rode Other scenes were then enacted. We saw for thirteen hours over a wild mountain the "ox-eyed" Hera, the radiant Aphro­ road that afforded superb views of the dite, Phoebus and his sister, the deep canyon of the Vistritza, or Haliac- wise Athena, and Ares, god of war. We be­ mon, River. Many strange sights we saw held them under many aspects: now quar­ that day: villages perched high on the relling among themselves over the fates of tops of mountains and nestled far down men, now laughing with Olympian laugh­ in deep ravines; streams of water har­ ter. But at length there came the inevi­ nessed in sluices to turn a dozen mills; and table twilight of the gods. They lost their a road-bed made of pure white marble for heroic character, and we seemed to see several miles. And late in the afternoon them more as pictured by Epicurus, living a long descent brought us to the town of eternally among themselves a life of un­ Verria, at the edge of the great plain of ceasing bliss and everlasting tranquillity far southern Macedonia, a town perhaps bet­ from all shadow of care and unconcerned ter known by its ancient name of Berea, with the surging waves of hxmian woe. whither Saint Paul fled when the Jews drove him from Thessalonica (Acts 17: Gladly would we have remained for 10). At Verria we came again to a rail­ many hours beholding these sights and road, and on the following day took the dreaming these dreams, but we were mor­ train to this same Thessalonica, or Sa- tal after aU, and at length we w^ere com­ lonica, now as in ancient times a great pelled to take thought for our descent. centre of commerce. It was half past one, and we had far to go. Stern necessity prevailed upon us, and And from the Gulf of Salonica a few slowly and reluctantly we began our jour­ days later we had a last view of the ney back to the world of mankind far be- mighty Olympus as we steamed out into low\ It was half past five when at last the iEgean on our way to Mount Athos we reached the monastery of Hagia Trias. and Constantinople. We beheld it from The kind monks welcomed us back, and across the water, looming majestically provided what refreshment they could. against a cloudless sky, a mountain tru­ We talked for a little while, telling them ly h\(iXa\f.%oq, or " all-resplcndent," as the of the wonders we had seen on their moun­ Greeks love to explain the origin of the tain—wonders so near them, yet which name. For a long time we watched it, till they had never thought to go and see for at length the evening shadows crept into themselves. Then we rolled up in our the deep ravines and the golden beams of comforters, and slept a sleep that not ten the setting sun kindled the crystal sum­ thousand rats could have disturbed. mits. Then, indeed, did we behold it trans­ In the morning w^e bade good-by to our figured into that blissful place praised hospitable hosts. They urged us to re­ by the god-inspired Homer, "where, as main for a few days and rest, but we felt they say, is the seat of the gods that that we must be on our way. That night standeth fast forever. Nor by winds is we spent at another monastery, called it shaken, nor ever wet with rain, nor Hagios Antonios, at the little village of doth the snow come nigh thereto, but most Demirades, close to the main road running clear air is spread about it cloudless, and north from Elassona into Macedonia; and the white light floats over it. Therein the on the following day we continued our blessed gods are glad for all their days." journey over the mountainous Pass of —Odyssey, VI (Butcher & Lang).

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY A. B. FROST

^S^^^jJHE first shadows from the He could see the smooth, beautifully col­ western mountains fell ored bodies of the Alderneys, moving plac­ upon the little farm at their idly up the road in the face of the great foot. Often they seemed light as though they were indifferent to to chase James down the the strange phenomenon. road. He had gone for James stopped so long in amazed con­ the cows alone since he was six years old, templation that the cows were half-way to but he had never grown accustomed to the barn. Then he ran at furious speed. the queer shapes of the alder bushes in "It is one of them!" he cried, divided the evenings and to the dark masses between fright and rapture. which filled the fence corners. Even fa­ At the gate of the house yard he stopped, miliar Mooley and Daisy and Bess took on breathless. The automobile lights were vast and unfamiliar proportions. James now behind him; he could see that the did not often run, and having safely kitchen lamp was burning and that his crossed the bridge over the stream which mother stood in the doorway, her pails, made his mother's land such fine pasture one inside the other, in one hand, her he grew bold. He could see from there lantern in the other. Facing her on the the kitchen light, darkened sometimes as step was a stranger, a tall young man his mother passed before it, or he could with an eager, commanding voice. hear the great tin pails rattling on her arm "The dairyman told me about you. as she swung open the barnyard gate. He said that you loved animals and were This evening James could not see the kind to them. Robin should be on a farm kitchen light or hear the pleasant clink of while we are away. I wouldn't have his mother's pails. Already the loud bought him if I had known we were going " Gee, Mooley! Haw, Bess!" with which so soon. He won't be any trouble, and I he expressed his return to confidence in will pay you well." himself and in the reasonable structure of Mrs. Schelling set the lantern on the the world, was on his lips. But the shout sill beside her. She was a Pennsylvania died soundlessly away. German and spoke English with difficulty. The light of his mother's lamp was lost She braced herself by putting her hand in a brilliant glare. At first James was against the door. certain that the dreaded fire was at last " I could not say his name, to call him." consuming their dwelling and he began "Robin! Call him Bob, Bobby; any­ to run, crying frantically, " Oh, mother! thing you like!" mother!" "I could not talk to him in English." Then he stood still. The light was not The young man laughed. "Then talk in the house, but in the road; it was not to him in German!" the leaping red flame with which fire de­ Mrs. Schelling answered with a slow vours wooden walls and roof. It was a "Well." Two dollars a week would be a round, still, white light, or, rather, two desirable addition to her income. Sud­ round, still, white lights which illuminated denly her face brightened. "The little the road to the bridge. James could count one can talk to him!" every nail in the railing, every knot in the At this mention of himself, James with­ floor. He could see also, as he looked drew to the shadows. But it was not at down to gauge the astonishing power of him that the stranger turned to look. the fiery eyes, his own bare feet, released The stranger gave a signal, a sharp stroke to-day from their winter bondage of shoes. of middle finger against palm. In answer. S78 PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED