Guyana - a Timeless Paradise

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Guyana - A Timeless Paradise

Naturetrek Tour Report 3rd – 17th February 2020

Kaieteur Falls Hoatzin

Guianan Cock-of-the-rock Giant Anteater

Report by Wally Prince Images courtesy of Wally Prince

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Guyana – A Timeless Paradise

Tour participants: Wally Prince (leader) with three Naturetrek clients

Summary

The tour into the heart of biodiversity-rich Guyana began with a visit to the mighty Kaieteur Falls on a chartered flight bestowed with perfectly clear skies, allowing the group to clearly view and appreciate the vast greenery of almost unbroken forest landscapes for 100s of miles – a ‘sea of broccoli’. We enjoyed spectacular views of Kaieteur Falls both from the air and exploring on foot. The tour continued with great success as we worked our way south through pristine, untouched rainforest before reaching the more open savanna. Each day held wonderful wildlife moments and we met some amazing people along the way. This small group returned home with many incredible wildlife memories made.

Iconic mammal sightings on the tour included a spectacular young Jaguar crossing a trail, groups of Giant River Otter and two separate Giant Anteater sightings with six species of primate encountered. Guianan Cock-of-the- rock, Hoatzin, Spangled and Pompadour Cotinga, Great Horned Owl, Scarlet Ibis and Blood-colored Woodpecker were just a few of the iconic birds we all enjoyed. A total of 237 bird species were seen, 17 mammals and a great range of reptiles and amphibians with highlights including two species of Crocodilian, Golden Rocket Frog – a stunning species endemic to Kaieteur Falls, and Amazon Pigmy Gecko.

Day 1 Monday 3rd February

London to Guyana

The group departed on a morning British Airways flight from London Gatwick to Port of Spain for an onward connecting Caribbean Airlines flight to Georgetown. The group were met at the airport by tour leader Wally and driver Colin. The group were transferred a short distance to Cara Lodge for a tasty evening meal and a good night’s sleep before the adventure ahead.

Day 2 Tuesday 4th February

Kaieteur Falls

After a good nights’ rest and a hearty breakfast, the group left for Ogle Airstrip for their chartered flight to the incredible Kaieteur Falls.

Around the falls, the group were privileged with sightings of numerous swifts, Golden Rocket Frog, Guinan Cock- of-the-rock and a female Bearded Saki. An afternoon trail-walk at Iwokrama River Lodge produced notable species such as Capuchin Birds and Spotted Antpitta. After dinner, the group departed for a nocturnal river excursion. Sightings included Garden Tree Boa, Ladder-tailed Nightjar and an immensely impressive four-metre Black Caiman.

Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Day 3 Wednesday 5th February

Turtle Mountain

After an early breakfast the group departed for Turtle Mountain with a huge variety of birdlife seen. We arrived back at Iwokrama River Lodge for a late lunch, and later in the afternoon another wildlife excursion produced many species before the group headed back to the lodge for dinner.

Day 4 Thursday 6th February

Atta Lodge

A morning wildlife walk around the lodge before breakfast produced a number of interesting species. After breakfast, we departed for Atta Lodge. The drive produced sightings of Black Currasow, Grey-winged Trumpeter, Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle, beautiful mixed flocks of tanagers, and Red-rumped Agouti.

A lovely walk on the Canopy Walkway at Atta Lodge provided many species of birds with a mammal highlight being a family of Red Howler Monkeys across the valley, lit in the perfect golden evening sunset.

Day 5 - 6 Friday 7th February – Saturday 8th February

Atta Lodge

Amongst many wildlife sightings of these two days, the undoubted highlight was the group enjoying the incredibly rare and special moment of a young Jaguar quite literally crossing their path, only 20 metres from the group!

Day 6 Sunday 9th February

Suruma

Once again, the group had a world-class wildlife experience with three cock Guianan Cock-of-the-rock lekking in open forest, which was later followed by an aggressive display of branch dropping from a Black Spider Monkey troupe.

Day 7 Monday 10th February

Surama Today the group enjoyed a wonderful walk up Suruma Mountain. In the afternoon the group explored Burro- Burro River with numerous wildlife sightings.

Day 8 Tuesday 11th February

Karanambu A large number of spectacular birds were found in the morning including Great Potoo, White-tailed Hawk, Great Black Hawk, Savanna Hawk, White-naped Xenopsaris, Pied Water Tyrant, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Vermilion

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Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Flycatcher, Jabiru Stork, and many other species. The afternoon produced Anhinga, Band-tailed Nighthawk, Boat- billed Heron and Giant River Otter.

Day 9 Wednesday 12th February

Karanambu Before breakfast the group went in search of Giant Anteater… with success! We watched an individual crossing a foraging field. After breakfast we walked to the Capuchin Bird trail, whereby we startled a small group of peccaries.

In the afternoon, the group went searching on the savannas which amazingly resulted in a ‘lifer’ for the guides - a Least Bittern! On the way back to the lodge, spotlighting for Nighthawk and Nightjar concluded the day, with some fine specimens being seen.

Day 9 Thursday 13th February

Karanambu Before breakfast the group again went in search of Giant Anteater… with success! We watched an individual crossing a field. An afternoon at Semoni Pond produced Giant River Otter, Bearded Saki and Brown Capuchin, along with many bird species.

Day 10 Friday 14th February

Karanambu On an early morning walk along the Capuchinbird trail the group were serenaded by the Capuchinbird’s unbelievable call. The group saw a number of ant-feeding specialists such as antshrikes and flycatchers who were no doubt taking advantage of the cooler morning temperatures to feed on slower-moving ants.

After breakfast, we departed for Lethem, stopping for lunch at the Eco-Hotel before travelling onwards to Georgetown.

Day 11 Saturday 15th February

Mahaica River Before breakfast the group departed for birding and wildlife spotting on the Mahaica River. We were surprised to quickly spot three Giant River Otter (very uncommon on the coast). We saw many of the species we were targeting for the Mahaica; Hoatzin, Little Cuckoo, Blood-colored Woodpecker, Long-winged Harrier, and several other species, including two sightings of Red Howler Monkey, of which one of the troupes did a spectacular howling performance. Heading back to Georgetown after breakfast, we were able to find one of the main mangrove-specific species: Rufous Crab Hawk.

Our wildlife finale took us to Ogle Mudflats in search of wading birds; Scarlet Ibis, yellowlegs, terns, herons and egrets, followed by birding in the botanical gardens where we found White-bellied Piculet, Blood-colored Woodpeckers, Festive Parrot, Toco Toucan and West Indian Manatees. What a great day!

Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

All of the group extended their holiday on a set extension arranged by Naturetrek, at the wonderful Asa Wright Centre in Trinidad, just a short flight from Guyana.

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Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Species Lists

Birds (=recorded but not counted; H = heard only)

Common name Scientific name trip 1 Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus H 2 Varriegated Tinamou Crypturellus variegatus H 3 Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata ✓ 4 Crested Bobwhite Colinus cristatus ✓ 5 Little Chachalaca Ortalis motmot ✓ 6 Spix's Guan Penelope jacquacu ✓ 7 Marail Guan Penelope marail ✓ 8 Black Curassow Crax alector ✓ 9 Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens ✓ 10 Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus ✓ 11 Anhinga Anhinga anhinga ✓ 12 Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea ✓ 13 Tricoloured Heron Egretta tricolor ✓ 14 Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi ✓ 15 Snowy Egret Egretta thula ✓ 16 Great Egret Ardea alba ✓ 17 Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus ✓ 18 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ✓ 19 Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea ✓ 20 Striated Heron Butorides striata ✓ 21 Boat-billed Heron Cachlearius cochlearius ✓ 22 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax ✓ 23 Rufescent Tiger Heron Trigrisoma lineatum ✓ 24 Scarlet Ibis Eudocimus ruber ✓ 25 Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis ✓ 26 Limpkin Aramus guaranuna ✓ 27 Least Bittern Lxobrychus exilis ✓ 28 Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari ✓ 29 Wood Stork Mycteria americana ✓ 30 Jabiru Jabiru mycteria ✓ 31 Black Vulture Coragyps atratus ✓ 32 Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura ✓ 33 Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus ✓ 34 Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus ✓ 35 King Vulture Sarcoramohus papa ✓ 36 Osprey Pandion haliaetus ✓ 37 Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis ✓ 38 Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii ✓ 39 White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus ✓ 40 Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus ✓ 41 Snail Kite Rastrhamus sociabilis ✓ 42 Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni ✓ 43 Grey-lined Hawk Buteo nitidus ✓ 44 Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga ✓ 45 Savannah Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis ✓ 46 Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis ✓ 47 Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris ✓

Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Common name Scientific name trip 48 White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus ✓ 49 Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus ✓ 50 Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus ✓ 51 Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus ✓ 52 Black Caracara Daptrius ater ✓ 53 Red-throated Caracara Lbycter americanus ✓ 54 Northern Caracara Caracara cheriway ✓ 55 Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima ✓ 56 Barred Forest Falcon Micrastur ruficollis ✓ 57 Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis ✓ 58 Orange-breasted Falcon Falco deiroleucus ✓ 59 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus ✓ 60 American Kestrel Falco sparverius ✓ 61 Purple Gallinule Porphyrula martinica ✓ 62 Grey-winged Trumpeter Psophia crepitans ✓ 63 Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis ✓ 64 Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana ✓ 65 Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes ✓ 66 Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius ✓ 67 Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria ✓ 68 Laughing Gull Larus atricilla ✓ 69 Black Skimmer Rynchops niger ✓ 70 Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa ✓ 71 Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis ✓ 72 Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea ✓ 73 Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbia ✓ 74 Common Ground Dove Columbina passerina ✓ 75 Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti ✓ 76 White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi ✓ 77 Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloropterus ✓ 78 Scarlet Macaw Ara macao ✓ 79 Red-shouldered Macaw Diopsittaca nobilis ✓ 80 Brown-throated Parakeet Aratinga pertinax ✓ 81 Painted Parakeet Pyrrhura picta ✓ 82 Golden-winged Parakeet Brotogeris chrysoptera ✓ 83 Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus ✓ 84 Dusky Parrot Pionus fuscus ✓ 85 Festive Amazon Amazona festiva ✓ 86 Red-fan Parrot Deroptyus accipitrinus ✓ 87 Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin ✓ 88 Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta ✓ 89 Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana ✓ 90 Greater Ani Crotophaga major ✓ 91 Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani ✓ 92 Northern Tawny-bellied Screech Owl Megascops watsonii ✓ 93 Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata H 94 Great Horned Owl Bugo virginianus ✓ 95 Least Nighthawk Chordeiles pusillus ✓ 96 Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutpennis ✓ 97 Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga ✓ 98 Nacunda Nighthawk Podager nacunda ✓

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Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Common name Scientific name trip 99 Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis ✓ 100 Ladder-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis climacocerca ✓ 101 Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis ✓ 102 White-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus cayennensis ✓ 103 Blackish Nightjar Caprimulgus nigrescens ✓ 104 Grey-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris ✓ 105 Band-rumped Swift Chaetura spinicaudus ✓ 106 Fork-tailed Palm Swift Tachornis squamata ✓ 107 Eastern Long-tailed Hermit Phaethrnis superciliosus ✓ 108 Reddish Hermit Phaethronis ruber ✓ 109 Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis ✓ 110 White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora ✓ 111 Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata ✓ 112 Green-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus theresiae ✓ 113 White-chested Emerald Amazilia chionopectus ✓ 114 Glittering-throated Emerald Amazilia fimbriata ✓ 115 Black-eared Fairy Heliothryx auritus ✓ 116 Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris ✓ 117 Amazonian White-tailed Trogan Trogon viridis ✓ 118 Amazonian Violaceous Trogan Trogon violaceus ✓ 119 Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata ✓ 120 American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea ✓ 121 Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana ✓ 122 Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona ✓ 123 Paradise Jacamar Galbula dea ✓ 124 Yellow-billed Jacamar Galbula albirostris ✓ 125 Green-tailed Jacamar Galbula galbula ✓ 126 Spotted Puffbird Bucco tamatia ✓ 127 Black Nunbird Monasa atra ✓ 128 Swallow-winged Puffbird Chelidoptera tenebrosa ✓ 129 Black-spotted Barbet Capito niger ✓ 130 Guianan Toucanet Selenidera piperivora ✓ 131 Balack-necked Aracari Pteroglossus aracari ✓ 132 Green Aracari Pteroglossus viridis ✓ 133 Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus ✓ 134 Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco ✓ 135 Red-billed Toucan Ramphastos tucanus ✓ 136 White-bellied Piculet Picumnus spilogaster ✓ 137 Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus ✓ 138 Waved Woodpecker Celeus undatus ✓ 139 Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus ✓ 140 Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos ✓ 141 Red-necked Woodpecker Campephilus rubricollis ✓ 142 Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus ✓ 143 Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens ✓ 144 Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus ✓ 145 Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus ✓ 146 Striped Woodpecker Xiphorhynchus obsoletus ✓ 147 Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus pardalotus H 148 Black-throated Antshrike Frederickena viridis ✓ 149 Mouse-coloured Antshrike Thomnophilus murinus ✓

Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Common name Scientific name trip 150 Amazonian Antshrike Thamnophilus amazonicus ✓ 151 Dusky-throated Antshrike Thamnomanes ardesiacus ✓ 152 Guianan Streaked Antwren Myrmotherula surinamensis ✓ 153 White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris ✓ 154 White-fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea ✓ 155 Grey Antbird Cercomacra cinerascens ✓ 156 Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina ✓ 157 White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys ✓ 158 Black-chinned Antbird Hypocnemoides melanopogon ✓ 159 Guianan Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis cantator ✓ 160 Spotted Antpitta Hylopezus macularius ✓ 161 Spotted Tody-Flycatcher Tordirostrum maculatum ✓ 162 Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum ✓ 163 Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum ✓ 164 Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus ✓ 165 Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster ✓ 166 Pale-tipped Inezia Inezia caudata ✓ 167 Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant Atalotriccus pilaris H 168 Helmeted Pygmy Tyrant Lophotriccus galeatus ✓ 169 Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus ✓ 170 Pied Water Tyrant Fluvicola pica ✓ 171 White-headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala 172 Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus ✓ 173 Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus ✓ 174 Grey Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis ✓ 175 Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana ✓ 176 Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarhynchus pitangua ✓ 177 Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus ✓ 178 Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor licotr ✓ 179 Guianan Red Cotinga Phoenicircus carnifex H 180 Pompadour Cotinga Xipholena punicea ✓ 181 Spangled Cotinga Cotinga cayana ✓ 182 Screaming Piha Liopugus vociferans ✓ 183 Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata ✓ 184 Capuchinbird Perissocephalus tricolor H 185 Guianan Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola rupicola ✓ 186 Golden-headed Manakin Pipra erythrocephala ✓ 187 White-crowned Manakin Dixiphia pipra ✓ 188 Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola ✓ 189 White-naped Xenopsaris Xenopsaris albinucha 190 Lemon-chested Greenlet Hylophilus thoracicus ✓ 191 Cayenne Jay Cayanocorax cayanus ✓ 192 White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer ✓ 193 Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea ✓ 194 Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera ✓ 195 White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata ✓ 196 Black-collared Swallow Atticora melanoleuca ✓ 197 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica ✓ 198 Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis ✓ 199 Bicoloured Wren Campylorhynchus griseus ✓ 200 Southern House Wren Troglodytes musculus ✓

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Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Common name Scientific name trip 201 Buff-breasted Wren Thryothorus leucotis H 202 Coraya Wren Thryothorus coraya H 203 Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus H 204 Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas ✓ 205 Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus ✓ 206 Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo ✓ 207 Blue-grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus ✓ 208 Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum ✓ 209 Burnish-buff Tanager Tangara cayana ✓ 210 Bannanaquit Coereba flaveola ✓ 211 Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana ✓ 212 Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza ✓ 213 Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus ✓ 214 Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons ✓ 215 Plumbeous Seedeater Sporophila plumbea ✓ 216 Wing-barred Seedeater Sporophila americana ✓ 217 Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris ✓ 218 Ruddy-breasted Seedeater Sporophila minuta ✓ 219 Chestnut-bellied Seedfinch Oryzoborus angolensis ✓ 220 Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis ✓ 221 Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens ✓ 222 Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides ✓ 223 Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia ✓ 224 Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus ✓ 225 Green Oropendola Psarocolius virdis ✓ 226 Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous ✓ 227 Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela ✓ 228 Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis ✓ 229 Yellow Oriole Icterus nigrogularis ✓ 230 Carib Grackle Quiscalus lugubris ✓ 231 Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis ✓ 232 Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora ✓ 233 Red-breasted Blackbird Sturnella militaris ✓ 234 Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna ✓ 235 Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea ✓ 236 Finch's Euphonia Euphonia finschi ✓ 237 Blood-colored Woodpecker Veniliornis sanguineus ✓ 238 Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina ✓ 239 Guianan Tyrannulet Zimmerius acer ✓ 240 Plain-crested Elaenia Elaenia cristata ✓

Guyana – A Timeless Paradise Tour Report

Mammals

Common name Scientific name trip 1 Giant Anteater Myrmecophaga tridactyla ✓ 2 Tufted Capuchin Cebus apella ✓ 3 Weeper Capuchin Cebus olivaceus ✓ 4 White-faced Saki Pithecia pithecia ✓ 5 Guyanan Red Howler Alouatta macconnelli ✓ 6 Red-faced Spider Monkey Ateles paniscus ✓ 7 Proboscis Bat Rhynchonycteris naso ✓ 8 Silky Short-tailed Bat Carollia brevicauda ✓ 9 Lesser Bulldog Bat Noctilio albiventris ✓ 10 Greater Bulldog Bat Noctilio leporinus ✓ 11 Pallas's Mastiff Bat Molossus molossus ✓ 12 Giant River Otter Pteronura brasiliensis ✓ South American Red 13 Brocket Mazama americana ✓ 14 Red-rumped Agouti Dasyprocta leporine ✓ 15 Jaguar Panthera onca ✓ 16 Artibeus Fruit Bat Artibeus spp. ✓ 17 Bearded Saki Chiropotes chiropotes ✓

Reptiles & Amphibians

Common name Scientific name trip 1 Black Caiman Melanosuchus niger ✓ 2 Spectacled Caiman Caiman crocodilus ✓ 3 Garden Tree Boa Corallus hortulanus ✓ 4 Golden Rocket Frog Colostethus beebei ✓ 5 Cane Toad Rhinella marina ✓ 6 Smooth-sided Toad Rhaebo gutattus ✓ 7 Red Snouted Tree Frog Scinax ruber ✓ 8 Tegu Lizard Tupinambis spp. ✓ 9 Ameiva Lizard Ameiva spp. ✓ 10 Turnip-tailed Gecko Thecadactylus rapicauda ✓ 11 Amazon Pigmy Gecko Pseudogonatodes guianensis ✓ 12 Green Iguana Iguana iguana ✓ 13 Neotropical Lava Lizard Tropidurus hispidus ✓