The enigmatic Diademed Sandpiper-Plover in a remote valley was the bird of the trip (Mark Pearman) NORTHERN ARGENTINA 21 OCTOBER – 12 NOVEMBER 2016 TOUR REPORT LEADER: MARK PEARMAN Northern Argentina 2016 was another hugely successful chapter in a long line of Birdquest tours to this region with some 524 species seen although, importantly, more speciality diamond birds were seen than on all previous tours. Highlights in the north-west included Huayco Tinamou, Puna Tinamou, Diademed Sandpiper-Plover, Black-and-chestnut Eagle, Red-faced Guan, Black-legged Seriema, Wedge-tailed Hilstar, Slender-tailed Woodstar, Black-banded Owl, Lyre-tailed Nightjar, Black-bodied Woodpecker, White-throated Antpitta, Zimmer’s Tapaculo, Scribble-tailed Canastero, Rufous-throated Dipper, Red-backed Sierra Finch, Tucuman Mountain Finch, Short-tailed Finch, Rufous-bellied Mountain Tanager and a clean sweep on all the available endemcs. The north-east produced such highly sought-after species as Black-fronted Piping- Guan, Long-trained Nightjar, Vinaceous-breasted Amazon, Spotted Bamboowren, Canebrake Groundcreeper, Black-and-white Monjita, Strange-tailed Tyrant, Ochre-breasted Pipit, Chestnut, Rufous-rumped, Marsh and Ibera Seedeaters and Yellow Cardinal. We also saw twenty-fve species of mammal, among which Greater 1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Argentina 2016 www.birdquest-tours.com Naked-tailed Armadillo stole the top slot. As usual, our itinerary covered a journey of 6000 km during which we familiarised ourselves with each of the highly varied ecosystems from Yungas cloud forest, monte and badland cactus deserts, high puna and altiplano, dry and humid chaco, the Iberá marsh sytem (Argentina’s secret pantanal) and fnally a week of rainforest birding in Misiones culminating at the mind-blowing Iguazú falls. While all of these habitats are shrinking, we were able to travel through vast sectors of uninhabited wilderness giving us some peace of mind. It would be true to say that we also had our fair share of beef, and enjoyed fne wines and hospitality. Leaving the dusty sugar cane felds behind, we entered the dramatic verdant Yungas forest world, a seemingly familiar, yet unfamilar, subtropical Andean cloudforest belt. The frst birding stop of the was a mixed fock including a close-up male Dot-fronted Woodpecker (a Yungas endemic), Azara’s Spinetail, Small-billed Elaenia, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Red-eyed Vireo, the outrageous Plush-crested Jay, Andean Slaty Thrush, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Hooded Siskin, Purple-throated Euphonia, Tropical Parula, Golden-crowned Warbler, Sayaca and Fawn-breasted Tanager, as well as smart Black-backed Grosbeaks and that was just a taster. Soon after we quickly found the endemic and well performing Yellow-striped Brushfnch, a fair bit below its usual altitudinal threshold. Scouring the rushing river we watched a Black Phoebe when Dave suddenly got us onto a male Torrent Duck on a rock, just as a raucous fock of sixteen Tucuman Amazons shot overhead through the clouds only to be quickly lost from sight. Higher up, we pulled into a layby where a stunning pair of Dusky-legged Guans were drying out from the last rainshower against a magnifcent backdrop of misty bromeliad-laden forest. Here too we managed unusually great views of Yungas Dove, plus Scaly-headed Parrot and many Mitred Parakeets, numerous Band-tailed Pigeons and a White-bellied Hummbird on its song perch. Even though it was just the frst day of the tour, everyone was focused on fnding the magical Rufous- throated Dipper, and at one bend in the river, Lena called our bus to a halt. Her frst glimpse of a dipper led to multiple views of a pair foraging and performing their infamous wing-fashing behaviour. We also managed White-throated Tyrannulet and another Yungas endemic, the delightful Brown-capped Whitestart before leaving the cloud forest and indeed the clouds behind. A striking endemic Yellow-striped Brushfnch, Dot-fronted Woodpecker and the impressive Rufous-throated Dipper (all by tour partici- pant Geoff Tassell) 2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Argentina 2016 www.birdquest-tours.com Torrent Ducks are common along many rivers in the north-west Andes (tour participant Lena Hanssen) Above the treeline, there were several hundred waterbirds to be seen at the vast Angostura reservoir including Andean Goose, Cinnamon Teal, Red Shoveler, Yellow-billed Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Pied-billed Grebe, Great Egret, Neotropic Cormorant, Andean and Red-gartered Coots, White-backed Stilt, Southern Lapwing, Wattled Jacana and Andean Gulls. A young Black-chested Buzzard Eagle sat on a roadside post and we also watched our frst Chiguanco Thrush. Andean Goose ranges above 2000 m. but is abundant on the altiplano (Geoff Tassell) 3 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Argentina 2016 www.birdquest-tours.com We drove through the cloud before dawn to almost 3000 metres and enjoyed the crisp morning air and a cloudtop view over the valley below, as the frst of many ovenbirds delivered their morning song including Buff- breasted Earthcreeper, Cream-winged and White-winged Cinclodes, Cordilleran and Puna Canastero, and many Streak-fronted Thornbirds. Trekking to higher ground we soon added Ornate Tinamou, Variable Hawk, Black-winged Ground Dove, the delightful endemic White-browed Tapaculo, Andean Flicker, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, Sedge Wren, Black Siskin, Plain-coloured Seedeater and three species of sierra fnch; Plumbeous, Ash-breasted and Band-tailed, while Andean Swifts screamed overhead. Fifteen endemic Moreno’s Ground Doves few in and landed on boulders infront of us, as our frst six majestic Andean Condors sailed past. Our ultimate goal at the head of the valley, the localized Scribble-tailed Canastero, was a little lower down than usual and put on a great performance. Clockwise from top left: A smart Moreno’s Ground Dove is yet another endemic of NW Argentina; the gorgeous endemic White-browed Tapaculo; the stunning Tucaman Mountain Finch is a reclusive endemic of NW Argentina; the localized Scribble-tailed Canastero was well worth the hike (all by tour participant Lena Hanssen) Other stops produced Burrowing Owl, the amazing Red-tailed Comet, Aplomado Falcon, Grey-hooded Parakeet and White-browed Ground Tyrant while a pair of endemic Tucuman Mountain Finch were found in record time, singing in the open to round off a highly productive morning. Another visit to the Rio de los Sosa and Angostura reservoir in the afternoon produced more protracted views of Torrent Ducks, Rufous-throated Dippers and Yellow-striped Brushfnches while we added White-winged Coot, Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner, Highland Elaenia, Southern Martin, Mountain Wren and Band-tailed Seedeater. Back at El Infernillo pass (Little Hell Pass) and soon after dawn, we connected with focks of Greenish Yellow Finch, several Scale-throated Earthcreepers and eight handsome Andean Lapwings. The arid west slope of the Aconquija massif was teeming with birdlife as we homed in on Rufous-banded Miner, Rusty-vented Canastero, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Patagonian Mockingbird and a surprise White-banded Mockingbird, Blue-and 4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Argentina 2016 www.birdquest-tours.com yellow Tanager, Rufous-sided Warbling Finch, Mourning Sierra Finch, hoards of Grey-hooded Sierra Finches plus the unforgetable Giant Hummingbird. After some raucous focks of Burrowing Parrots and a stunning trio of Elegant Crested Tinamous, we soon descended into the intermontane monte desert, home to three more Argentine endemics. A pair of Sandy Gallito appeared almost instantly, and ran across the desert and up a slope towards us, allowing protracted views. Next on the agenda was the endemic While-throated Cacholote. An initial search drew a blank but just as we were driving off, Dave noticed that a large bird had come in. A quick exit from the bus produced great scope studies and two of our major targets had been bagged in record time. An empanada lunch in a nearby village provided picnic-table-views of White-fronted and Checkered Woodpeckers as well as stunning White-tipped Plantcutter, Ringed Warbling Finch and Golden-billed Saltator. Later, a couple of stops along the Rio Santa Maria produced Spectacled Tyrant and a pair of Peregrines feeding on a large fsh, while back in the desert we added Harris’ Hawk, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Chaco Earthcreeper, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, Cliff Flycatcher and displaying White-winged Black Tyrant. The third and fnal monte desert endemic was located in some red sandstone badlands and after a ten minute wait, two striking male Monte Yellow Finches few in to drink at their favourite trickle of water; a bird that had been lost to science until Mark’s 2013 paper. The vast Salta badlands of the Calchaquies valley beckoned, although the frst birds of the day were at a marsh just a short drive from town. Here we located the expected Long-tailed Meadowlarks, Great Pampa Finch, extremely restless Sharp-billed Canastero as well as Common Diuca Finch. The San Carlos reservoir had its usual fare of waterfowl and we added Andean Duck, Silvery Grebe, Chilean Flamingo, Baird’s Sandpiper, Wilson’s Phalarope and a surprise Giant Coot. Many more Burrowing Parrots and Spot-winged Pigeons later, we reached a Steinbach’s Canastero site and had great views of this endemic after a half hour search. Other stops during the day added Buff-necked Ibis, photogenic Plumbeous Rails, Southern Scrub Flycatcher, the frst of many Creamy-bellied Thrushes and a female Red Tanager which was of course yellow. After a mind-blowing drive through the badlands we headed up to a 3000 m.-high plateau where a concerted team effort produced scope studies of Least Seedsnipe and handsome Tawny-throated Dotterels. Guanacos in the Cactus National Park (Lena Hanssen) 5 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Argentina 2016 www.birdquest-tours.com The spiralling Cuesta del Obispo road meandered through the clouds as we began our morning’s birding with Rock Earthcreeper, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and Hellmayr’s Pipit.