Guyana - A Timeless Paradise Naturetrek Tour Report 4 - 20 October 2008 Essequibo River at Iwokrama View downstream from Kaiteur Falls Anhinga Lily pond at Karanambu Report and images compiled by Andy Smith Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Guyana - A Timeless Paradise Tour Leader: Andy Smith Participants: David Glayzer Barbara Glayzer Ian Holland Derek Whitton Yvonne Whitton Dennis Rose Pauline Rose Greg Knowles Phil Jameson Barbara Mather Day 1 Saturday 4th October London to Georgetown After a long day flying via Barbados we arrived at Georgetown airport on time in the late evening and transferred to our comfortable hotel close to the city centre. Day 2 Sunday 5th October Georgetown to Arrowpoint A bit of pre-breakfast birding around the hotel grounds and immediate surroundings brought us our first common Guyanan birds including Orange-winged Parrot, Ruddy Ground Dove, Tropical Kingbird, Grey- breasted Martin, Pale-breasted Thrush, Tropical Mockingbird and Palm Tanager. After breakfast we left Georgetown and drove inland along the east bank of the wide, brown Demerara River through various settlements and past lush fields of sugar cane. At Temeri Creek we transferred into a boat, crossed the river and proceeded up the narrow forest-fringed Kamuni and Pokero Creeks. A small troop of Golden-handed Tamarins scampering through the tree-tops provided an exciting diversion and a range of notable birds en-route included several Striated Herons, a brief Sungrebe, a couple of mighty Ringed Kingfishers and lots of Great Kiskadees. We stopped briefly at Santa Mission, an Amer-Indian community, and then continued on to the beautifully positioned Arrowpoint Lodge in good time for lunch. After a siesta interrupted by a dramatic thunderstorm, we went for a walk in the nearby sandbelt forest, and then ended the day boating our way back down the creek to the lodge. Bird highlights during this relaxing and enjoyable afternoon included Red-bellied and Red-shouldered Macaws, Black-necked Aracari, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, White-necked Jacobin, Swallow-winged Puffbird, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Violaceous Euphonia and Yellow-rumped Cacique, whilst reptiles were represented by several Racerunner Lizards and a moderately large Spectacled Caiman. © Naturetrek January 09 1 Guyana - A Timeless Paradise Tour Report Day 3 Monday 6th October Arrowpoint Shortly after first light we took a boat ride up the creek through a superb mosaic of palm thickets, marsh and woodland and encountered a wide range of colourful birds. The principal highlight was a group of dazzling male Crimson-Topaz Hummingbirds at their lek over the creek itself, but other notable species included Scaled Pigeon, White-tailed Trogon, Pygmy Kingfisher, Sulphury Flycatcher, Moriche Oriole and a pair of nest-building Fasciated Antshrikes. A small group of Brown Capuchins working their way through the forest canopy rounded off an excellent outing and it was a happy crew indeed that returned to the lodge for a delicious breakfast. Later we walked some of the trials through the adjacent forest and despite the heat managed to find a skulking White- faced Saki and enjoy some good views of a male Golden-headed Manakin, Ferruginous-backed and Warbling Antbirds and a striking Black-bellied Cuckoo. In the afternoon, after another rain-interrupted siesta, we explored the lodge clearing and adjacent areas of the forest and concluded a thoroughly enjoyable time at Arrowpoint with sightings of Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Red-billed Toucan, Black-spotted Barbet, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Cayenne Jay and a roosting Pauraque. Day 4 Tuesday 7th October Arrowpoint to Iwokrama via Kaiteur Falls After an early breakfast we boated our way back down Pokero Creek and across the wide Demerara River to the landing at Temeri Creek where we transferred to a bus and drove back through Georgetown to Ogle Airport. Here we boarded a light aircraft chartered for our purposes and were soon airborne, leaving Georgetown and the sugar cane fields far behind and flying over apparently endless unbroken rainforest. After an hour or so we approached a series of rugged hills that led us into an ever-narrowing gorge and then, suddenly, below us was the majestic sight of Kaiteur falls. After a quick fly-past we landed at the dirt airstrip and then spent a couple of hours walking the trails through the mist forest to a series of viewpoints that allowed us to fully appreciate this thoroughly spectacular place. Birds noted along the way included a brief female Cock-of-the-rock, a neat little Amethyst Woodstar and a superb adult Orange-breasted Falcon that cruised back and forth along the cliff edge in front of us at eye level and seemingly at arm’s reach – very nice! We had a good look at the huge, freestanding Tank Bromeliads that grew all around us and found several tiny Golden Frogs in the pools of water between the fronds. From Kaiteur we flew on to Fair View settlement at Iwokrama and by late afternoon we were nicely settled in to our comfortable chalets at the nearby Iwokrama Research Station. Heavy, prolonged thundery rain set in however and precluded any excursions in the boats or on the trails. Day 5 Wednesday 8th October Iwokrama A cool, misty dawn made for a slow start but an early morning boat ride still proved reasonably productive with good sightings of Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns, Pied Plover, Red-and-green Macaws, both Dusky and Caica Parrots, White-winged and Black-collared Swallows and a pair of elusive Dusky Purpletufts fly-catching from the top of a tall riverside tree. 2 © Naturetrek January 09 Guyana - A Timeless Paradise Tour Report After a breakfast interrupted by fine views of a Grey-lined Hawk perched at the edge of the research centre clearing we took to the trails. In the course of an enjoyable morning we encountered an interesting range of wildlife including a Red-rumped Agouti and a White-faced Saki, some Blue Morpho Butterflies, two smart male White-crowned Manakins, several noisy Screaming Pihas and three impressive Spix’s Guans peering down at us from the canopy. In the afternoon we explored along the main road south through the forest and in a short space of time found an excellent range of birds. Among the highlights were both Channel-billed and Red-billed Toucans, a single Lineated and at least seven Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers, two stunning male Spangled Cotingas, a trio of Black-tailed Tityras, several Green Oropendolas and dozens of rare Blue-cheeked Parrots. As we drove back in the gathering darkness Blackish Nightjars and bat-like Short-tailed Nighthawks hawked over the road ahead of us and completed a satisfying day. Day 6 Thursday 9th October Iwokrama Transport constraints necessitated a split in the group this morning; some went on a boat trip and a walk at the research centre whilst others visited the canopy walkway at Atta. Both groups had a good morning and between us we saw an impressive range of wildlife. Mammal sightings included Bearded Saki, Red Howler and Black Spider Monkeys and River Otter; whilst bird highlights included Great Black Hawk, Plumbeous Kite, Black Curassow, Blue-headed Parrot, Paradise Jacamar, Pied Puffbird, Green Aracari, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Long- billed Gnatwren, Turquoise and Bay-headed Tanagers and Tiny Tyrant-Manakin. A sizeable Yellow-footed Tortoise dozing on the trail at Atta added reptile interest. In the afternoon we went for a walk along the road and around the airstrip and settlement at Fair View and concluded another enjoyable day with good views of several Red-Fan Parrots, a White-necked Puffbird, a male Black-tailed Trogon and over a dozen superb Blue-and-yellow Macaws. Day 7 Friday 10th October Iwokrama In the morning some of the group hiked up through the forest to the viewpoint at the top of Turtle Mountain and enjoyed the extensive views whilst others stayed lower down and explored mainly by boat. A wide variety of exciting birds seen between us included Rufescent Tiger Heron, Muscovy Duck, Collared Forest Falcon, Painted Parakeet, Ringed, Amazon and Green Kingfishers, White-tailed Trogon, Great Jacamar and Guyanan Red Cotinga. In the late afternoon we took to the boats again and explored around the rapids and islands a little upstream of Fair View and concluded our time at Iwokrama with great views a pair of Bat Falcons illuminated beautifully by the late sunshine high up in the top of a riverside tree. Day 8 Saturday 11th October Iwokrama to Surama Leaving Iwokrama before dawn we arrived at the Atta canopy walkway shortly after first light. The forest was superb in the early morning calm but apart from a pair of Black-spotted Barbets and a Squirrel Cuckoo bird activity was minimal so, after some breakfast, we drove on to Prince Charles’ Trail. © Naturetrek January 09 3 Guyana - A Timeless Paradise Tour Report Here we had an excellent hour or so with superb views of a dazzling male Guyanan Cock-of-the-rock perched quietly in the under-storey, fleeting views of a male Pompadour Cotinga in the canopy above us and a stunning Long-tailed Potoo roosting in classic upright posture a little above head height in a trailside palm. A group of Wedge-capped Capuchins in the trees back at the road completed a superb visit and saw us on our way in good spirits. We arrived at serene and beautiful Surama in good time to settle in before lunch and then, after a siesta, we set off on foot to explore the adjacent woodland and savannah.