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Distances in nautical miles Distances in nautical miles ChichesterM Lymington M M 27 MExmouth BrayeM M Weymouth Needles 16 MCherbourg Portland Bill St Catherine’s 21 Plymouth Point M MDiélette MDartmouth 28 M M Salcombe 54 80 St Peter Port 60 Start Point 62 30 MCarteret Les Ecrehous 26 25 MPortbail 82 70 St HelierM 23 42 52 Roches M 22 Alderney Cherbourg Douvres Guernsey 42 38 29 Herm Plateaudes St Peter PortM Sark MCarteret 30 42 52 MGranville UK St HelierM Jersey MLéz ardrieux 35 MPaimpol

ErquyM MSt Malo St-QuayM M M MGranville M M Mont MLézardrieux Binic Dahouet Dinard Saint-Michel MSt-Quay MSaint-Malo

Onqsdkds A`x hm Idqrdx hr BPaZ effort to buy freshly caught crabs, itrs nmd ne l`mx a`xr vnqsg uhrhshmf When arriving on Sark you need to set lobsters and scallops. ’ your metaphorical clock back some 50 full cream milk and eggs go into ice years. However, political change has creams and fudge and simply cry out to happened in recent years, and although be sampled. Fresh cheeses (from that residents are trying to ignore rare breed of Guernsey Golden Goats), modernisation, you’ll need to visit soon wonderful salads and, of course, those before it’s too late. tasty new potatoes all go into making it a gastronomic trip. ;^RP[PSeXRT 0[STa]Th John Frankland is an RYA practical Mddc sn jmnv cruising instructor and has been sailing Often passed by motorboaters on the way Sgd `cnq`akd Ftdqmrdx <^QX[T_W^]Tb elsewhere, this island deserves greater Fnkcdm Fn`sr `krn oqnctbd around the islands for more than 25 L`hmk`mc lnahkd ognmd bnlo`mhdr jddo lnahkd trd hm sgd Bg`mmdk Hrk`mcr ntsrhcd exploration. It is very different from other cdkhbhntr bgddrdr years. His local pilotage booklets sell ne hmbktrhud lhmtsdr+ sgqnvhmf hs hmsn sgd Channel Islands – noticeably the well because they are clear in their instructions and they make island qn`lhmf q`mfd- Oqdo`qd xntqrdke enq Channel Islands topography is almost devoid of trees. ghfgdq b`kk bnrsr `s DT q`sdr+ nq atx ` hopping safe, exciting and fulfilling. These were chopped down long ago for knb`k+ o`x,`r,xnt,fn RHL b`qc vgdm xnt John Bougourd has worked aboard CWXbb\P[[P]SRP_cXePcX]VPaRWX_T[PV^bW^d[SQT^]TeTah use in shipbuilding when France fds sgdqd- Stqm nee C`s` Qn`lhmf sn `unhc threatened to invade the island. island ferries for 40 years. There is very gdesx rl`qs ognmd bg`qfdr- QDONQS AX LHBG@DK % EQ@MBDR GNVNQSG little he hasn’t witnessed first hand, Q^PcTa·bXcX]TaPah 6dTa]bTh either as a ferry master or as a former 8]bdaP]RT The sheer number of small boats coxswain of the St Peter Port RNLI Sgd TJ Cdo`qsldms ne Gd`ksg qdbdmskx o close, yet so far, this clump of while the beauty, warm waters and have prevented visitors from making the dotted around the island’s triangular Lifeboat. His advice is to use the tides qdlnudc sgd qdbhoqnb`k gd`ksgb`qd caXeXP `qq`mfdldms vhsg sgd Bg`mmdk Hrk`mcr- islands off the French coast, sandy beaches draw thousands of hop from the UK to their islands. Request shaped coastline is one of the first to your advantage – it’s the safest Gd`ksgb`qd hm sgd hrk`mcr mnv e`kkr ntsrhcd which are British Crown others. For motorboaters the CWT1P[[XfXRZb^U a copy, follow the guidance given and things you notice about Guernsey. option and you’ll save on fuel. 9TabThP]S6dTa]bTh sgd TJ M`shnm`k Gd`ksg Rdquhbd `mc sgd S Dependencies, became a target Channel Islands offer a wonderful you won’t go far wrong. With more marinas than any other, this 5^^Sc^cah Dtqnod`m Gd`ksg Hmrtq`mbd B`qc 'DGHB( for invasion in the 1940s as Hitler set sense of achievement at having WPeTQTT]ad] island even plans to build another one hr mns u`khc- @kk uhrhsnqr `qd `cuhrdc sn about conquering . His welcome conquered epical tides, swept bT_PaPcT[hbX]RT ?PbbPVT_[P]]Ta in St Peter Port. Everything that is locally grown here s`jd nts sq`udk hmrtq`mbd sn bnudq sgd was in stark contrast to the warm embrace past man-eating rocks and entered cWT[PcT "cW GPS coordinates for a trip between 7Ta\ somehow has a special taste. Make the bnrs ne `mx ldchb`k sqd`sldms-  that awaits visiting motorboats that set off quaint harbours. The elements that RT]cdah Torquay and St Peter Port running to the today towards the Channel Islands. surround the cruising ground have west of the red channel light vessel in the It’s a British trait to favour the little guy, at times put the less intrepid off Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS). but here the favouritism isn’t misplaced. FWhV^. such an adventure, but if you do OSnqpt`x L`qhm` 4/ 16Ô332ÔÔM+ //2 Herm is where the Channel Islanders For many it is the allure of islands in your homework properly it’s a very 20Ô738ÔÔV themselves head to when they seek general, for some it’s a sense of history, accessible area. OSnqpt`x Qn`cr 4/ 16Ô046ÔÔM+ //2 20Ô875ÔÔV solitude and family fun. SG

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ORV Bg`mmdk Khfgs Rgho 38 41Ô655ÔÔM+ //1 G Jersey and Guernsey Harbours make Closest to France and furthest from R D

46Ô210ÔÔV B

a point of singling out the boating , Jersey is the stand-alone island. M OMnqsg ne Khsskd Qtrrdk Ftdqmrdx 38 21Ô067ÔÔM+ @ public by producing a helpful //1 17Ô536ÔÔV In many ways it is the island most like how-to-do-it guide, which OOdshs B`mtod 38 2/Ô/53M+ //1 17Ô466ÔÔV mainland Britain, yet at the very same demystifies many of the time it is the one that could most likely Lnms Nqftdhk B`rskd OQntrsdk 38 18Ô142ÔÔM //1 18Ô/15ÔÔV myths that oqnsdbsdc sgd hrk`mc OAqdgnm Snvdq 38 17Ô268ÔÔM+ //1 18Ô53/ÔÔV succeed if political independence were eqnl Eqdmbg hmu`rhnm ORs Odsdq Onqs G`qantq dmsq`mbd 38 16Ô233ÔÔM+ forced upon it. @KK OGNSNR AX EQ enq 5// xd`qr //1 20Ô4/7ÔÔV B`rskd Bnqmds+ FtdqmrdxÔr `mbhdms g`qantq enqsqdrr+ knnlr k`qfd ax sgd dmsq`mbd sn Rs Odsdq Onqs

38 July 2011 motorboatsmonthly.co.uk 39 8=B834AB·6D834 270==4;8B;0=3B

E`untqhsd g`udm Knmfhr A`x Knmfhr 'oqnmntmbdc Knmfdx( A`x nm sgd rntsgd`rs bn`rs hm sgd mnqsgd`rs ne sgd hrk`mc hr ` k`qfd rvddohmf a`x cnlhm`sdc ax Drrdw B`rskd+ mnv bnmudqsdc hmsn `o`qsldmsr `mc oqnsdbsdc ax Enqs Q`y nm Q`y Hrk`mc- Hm Qnl`m shldr sghr v`r sgd hrk`mcÔr l`hm g`qantq `mc sgdqd hr duhcdmbd hs v`r trdc knmf adenqd sg`s- Mdnkhsghb Cnkldmr The Swinge Braye Fort Albert Harbour 'atqh`k bg`ladqr( `mc Hqnm @fd onssdqx c`sdc `qntmc 38/AB g`ud addm dwb`u`sdc md`qax- Sghr vhcd+ r`mcx

Longis a`x hr vdkk oqnsdbsdc ax ` knmf v`kk athks hm sgd shldr ne sgd Fdql`m nbbto`shnm- HsÔr ` fnnc `ksdqm`shud he Aq`xd Bay G`qantq fdsr ad`sdm to hm ` mnqsgd`rsdqkx `mc hsÔr ` bnmudmhdms ok`bd sn v`hs nts sgd dwbdrrdr ne sgd Q`bd- St AnneM Alderney The Race Sgd Ehqrs `mc K`rs rodbh`khrdr hm rd`ennc

B`qhaad`m b`qmhu`k+ sgd hrk`mcÔr lnrs e`lntr dudms aqhmfr hm sgntr`mcr ne L`mmdy Khfgsgntrd hr `m hlonqs`ms k`mcl`qj `r xnt `ooqn`bg Aq`xd G`qantq sntqhrsr- Sgdqd `qd nudq 02/ nqf`mhrdc dudmsr d`bg xd`q+ vghbg hmbktcd to eight, ensuring that all visitors get Sghmfr sn cn l`m,onvdqdc ekhfgs `ssdlosr+ `mc sgd 0[STa]Th treated well and doubling the number Bnms`bsr OUhrhs @kcdqmdx CPZTPcaPX]aXST dpt`kkx etm,ehkkdc C`es Q`es Q`bd- Just 10 miles off the coast of France and of water taxis serving boats at anchor or Sdk9 /0370 711700 60 miles from mainland Britain, on mooring buoys. @kcdqmdx hr sgd nmkx Bg`mmdk Hrk`mc sn vvv-uhrhs`kcdqmdx-bnl g`ud hsr nvm q`hkv`x- @eedbshnm`sdkx Alderney sits as a port of entry to the In good weather, the island can be O G`qantql`rsdq ctaadc ax knb`kr Ósgd Nqhdms DwoqdrrÔ+ hs Sntqhrs hmen Channel Islands. seen from some way off and the Sdk9 /0370 71151/ hr nudq 04/ xd`qr nkc `mc snc`x hs hr lnqd It is an island where cars wear body lighthouse in the north west is easy to OG`qantq Khfgsr Gnsdk

motorboatsmonthly.co.uk 41 8=B834AB·6D834 270==4;8B;0=3B

EXRc^a7dV^·b7^dbT Bnms`bsr Sghr enqldq gnld ne sgd e`lntr vqhsdq hr O Uhrhs Ftdqmrdx E`untqhsd g`udm Ad`tbdssd L`qhm` mnv ` ltrdtl sg`s rdqudr `r ` k`rshmf Sdk9 /0370 612441 vvv- Oqhu`sdkx nvmdc Ad`tbdssd L`qhm` g`r rhfmdc to sn Sq`mrdtqnod+ sgd uhrhsnqrÔ ldlnqx ne ghr shld rodms hm dwhkd hm Rs uhrhsftdqmrdx-bnl adqsghmf oqnfq`lld sg`s needqr 4/$ chrbntms sn ldladqr- L`qhm` l`m`fdq Odsdq Onqs- OAn`svnqjr Oktr Qhbjx Rsdudmr hr `kv`xr vhkkhmf sn kdmc uhrhsnqr ` gdkohmf g`mc `mc rdkcnl stqmr Sdk9 /0370 615/60 sgdl `v`x+ dwbdos hm sgd atrhdrs ne shldr- Rhw v`hshmf atnxr g`ud addm hmrs`kkdc CWT6Ta\P]>RRd_PcX^]

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44 July 2011 motorboatsmonthly.co.uk 45 8=B834AB·6D834 270==4;8B;0=3B

through here so go through on your first attempt at slack water. Sghmfr sn cn On the eastern shore, two tiny C^dacWTXb[P]S harbours serve the island. Maseline to Ghqd ` ahjd eqnl nmd ne sgqdd ntskdsr `mc the north is restricted to local boats and fn enq ` qhcd Ï sgdqd `qd 7/ nq rn sq`bsnqr xdr+ ats sgdqd `qd mn b`qr sn jmnbj xnt is the terminal port for passenger and nudq- @ksdqm`shudkx+ s`jd ` gnqrd `mc freight-laden inter-island craft, so should b`qqh`fd qhcd sn Khsskd R`qj- Bec du Nez be avoided. Creux Harbour on the other hand, is a delight, even if small and at FP[ZX]V Ghjd nts sn rdd sgd Vhmcnv hm sgd Qnbj+ Banquette times somewhat cramped. The trick Landing here, say locals, is to run out a stern ` rodbs`btk`q sqdj vhsg ` vnmcdqetk Jnc`j lnldms nm `qqhu`k- Ats ad b`qdetk anchor and head into the quay. Secure `r sgdqd hr mn r`edsx q`hkhmf- Sark your bowline ashore on to the dock and Maseline Harbour Havre StocksM take up slack on the stern line. Be 6PaST]b Gosselin Creux Harbour Onhmsd Qnadqs Khfgsgntrd EXbXc^ab·\^^aX]Vb warned though, Creux dries and only Uhrhs sgd cdkhfgsetk f`qcdmr hm sgd nm sgd mnqsgd`rs ne sgd Derribe Uhrhsnqr b`m trd sgd oqhu`sdkx qtm Port es Sales Bay fqntmcr ne sgd Rdhfmdtqhd+ tmshk qdbdmskx Dixcart boats that can take the ground should hrk`mc v`r athks hm 0802 Bay Point sgd qdrhcdmbd ne sgd Rdhfmdtq- Nodm lnnqhmfr `s Fqud cd k` Uhkkd nm sgd d`rs La Coupée Derrible linger here. It is best to telephone the c`hkx eqnl 0/`l,4ol sgqntfgnts bn`rs `mc G`uqd Fnrrdkhm nm sgd vdrs- harbourmaster ahead of time. He will sgd rtlldq- Bnms`bsr 5dT[ Little Sark not reserve a berth for you, but he can OR`qj Sntqhrl tell you whether the harbour is full. EXbXc^a2T]caT Mn etdk dwbdos hm `m dldqfdmbx- Sgd Sdk9 /0370 721 234 r`ld `ookhdr sn v`sdq- Hotelier Paul Armorgie and his Cqno hmsn sgd R`qj Uhrhsnq Bdmsqd+ vghbg Nmkx an`sr sg`s b`m s`jd sgd fqntmc b`m uhrhs sgd rl`kk ats cdkhfgsetk Bqdtw G`qantq vvv-r`qj-hmen partners have recently invested millions gntrdr knb`k dwghahshnmr `knmfrhcd OG`qantql`rsdq 2WP]S[Tah A long-standing feudal system of anchor. Sadly, one of the most popular of pounds into renovating Stocks, a 16th gdkoetk annjr+ l`or `mc uhrhsnq `hcr- Sdk9 /0370 721212 Sgd G`qantq B`e g`r ` rl`kk rdkdbshnm BPaZ caXeXP government contributed greatly to the anchorages, that of La Grande Grêve, century granite-built farmhouse hotel >RRd_PcX^]P]S7TaXcPVT

motorboatsmonthly.co.uk 47 8=B834AB·6D834 270==4;8B;0=3B

nts nm Rgdkk Ad`bg vgdm sgd shcdr `qd E`bs Ehkd qhfgs- Sgdx cn hmrhrs+ gnvdudq+ sg`s Vgx vd knud---Ftdqmrdx odqlhrrhnm sn cn rn ad fq`msdc ehqrs- 1^^Zb ?TcTaEP]STET[ST5PXa[X]TCPaVP"#^f]Ta OVd`sgdq hm Bg`mmdk 8]bXSTa·bcX_ ÑLx vhed `mc H g`ud dminxdc bqthrhmf `qntmc sgd Hrk`mc V`sdqr ax Qnfdq L`ss Mhbgnk qtmr sgd hrk`mcÔr nvm eknshkk` Bg`mmdk Hrk`mcr enq 24 xd`qr- Vd g`ud svn Sgda`tks ne an`sr mddcdc nm ` c`x,sn,c`x a`rhr- bghkcqdm+ R`l+ 05+ `mc Nkhuh`+ 01+ vgn ansg dminx shld OUhrhshmf X`bgsrldmÔr Ghr e`untqhsd rons sn `mbgnq hr stbjdc to nm sgd v`sdq Ï oqdedq`akx vgdm sgd vd`sgdq hr Fthcd sn sgd Bg`mmdk Hrk`mc hm Oteehm A`x+ rkhfgskx sn sgd mnqsgvdrs ne v`ql- Vgdm shld `mc vd`sgdq odqlhsr vd khjd sn OQBBOE Sgd Bg`mmdk Rdkkd Qnptd- Gd r`xr+ ÑDudm sgntfg H khud nudqmhfgs hm sgd Eqdmbg onqs ne B`qsdqds- Sgd mdws Hrk`mcr ax Odsdq B`qmdfhd nm sgd hrk`mc H rshkk knud sn aqhmf lx nvm lnqmhmf vd b`rs nee `mc gd`c rntsg enq mhmd lhkdr 'Hlq`x( an`s qntmc gdqd hm sgd rtlldq `mc sn Kdr Dbqdgnr+ ` e`ms`rshb ntsbqno ne qnbj+ vgdqd OSgd Rgdkk Bg`mmdk Ohkns `mbgnq nee nudqmhfgs-Ò Gd cndr+ gnvdudq+ vd cqno `mbgnq hm sgd k`fnnm `mc v`sbg sgd shcd ax Snl Btmkheed 'Hlq`x( v`qm uhrhsnqr sn rs`x bkd`q eqnl sgd `qd` qtm nts+ kd`uhmf ` gtfd `qd` ne qnbjr `mc r`mcx onnkr- Vd rvhl hm OFtdqmrdx+ Qntmc sgd `qntmc Qnr`hqd hm ` rntsgdqkx+ o`qshbtk`qkx bqxrs`k bkd`q v`sdqr `mc qdk`w hm sghr tmronhks m`stq`k g`ahs`s tmshk sgd shcd qhrdr Hrk`mc ax Ingm Eq`mjk`mc ctqhmf roqhmf shcdr- nmbd lnqd `mc hsÔr shld sn gd`c gnld sn Ftdqmrdx-Ò '@kadbp Otakhrghmf( OGdql+ @ X`bgsrl`mÔr 4PcX]VSaX]ZX]V Fthcd ax Ingm Eq`mjk`mc Ennc hr rdqudc q`v `s sgd Ak`bj Qnbj ?TcTaBXSTQ^cc^\A81^f]Ta ÑSq`udkkhmf eqnl Ftdqmrdx sn Gdql ax QHA nm ` '@kadbp Otakhrghmf( Fqhkk `mc chmdqr fds sn bnnj hs sgdlrdkudr ehmd rtlldqÔr c`x hr nmd ne sgnrd fqd`s OR`qj+ Qntmc sgd Hrk`mc ax `s sgd s`akd trhmf qnbjr oqdgd`sdc sn dwodqhdmbdr+ dudm enq rnldnmd vgn g`r Ingm Eq`mjk`mc '@kadbp 3// bdmshfq`cd- Lnqd bnmudmshnm`k ennc an`sdc `qntmc sgd hrk`mcr enq 3/ xd`qr- Sgd Otakhrghmf( b`m ad entmc `s sgd svn qdrs`tq`msr @kkhf`mcd O`rr`fd hr sgd lnrs onotk`q nodq`sdc ax sgd Vghsd Gntrd Gnsdk- Sgd ?aX]RX_[TRWPacb `ooqn`bg ats H oqdedq Sna`qr O`rr`fd- Rntsg Ldql`hc S`udqm hr onotk`q vhsg sntqhrsr O@clhq`ksx 1558+ 1734+ ne Idsgnt+ hm sgd roqhmf `mc d`qkx rtlldq+ ats hs adbnldr `m dwbktrhud v`sdqhmf 2542 2543+ 2544 % kdhrtqd onssdq enq ` vghkd `mc v`sbg enq oteehmr sg`s gnkd vgdm sgd c`x sqhoodqr g`ud enkhn 45/3 mdrs hm atqqnvr nm sgd shmx hrk`mc-Ò fnmd gnld- OHlq`x B0/+ B22@ % A+ 14// Bg`qs O`bj Adkunhq A`x nm sgd d`rs bn`rs hr ` knudkx rgdksdqdc `mbgnq`fd hm vdrsdqkhdr ;^RP[aTVd[PcX^]b ORs`menqcr 05 % 15 Bg`qs O Sgdqd hr ` 5,jmns roddc khlhs hm v`sdqr O`bj 7Ta\ ferries leave the only people left BTP[b_^ccX]V `qntmc sgd hrk`mc `mc rknvdq roddcr `qd Vgx vd knud--- Idqrdx Everyone loves this tiny island just Oyster Point behind are the hotel’s overnight guests @sk`mshb fqdxr ok`x nm nee,kxhmf qnbjr- `cuhrdc hm bknrd pt`qsdqr- Sgd trd ne ATVd[PcX^]b Shell Beach 2^[X][T

48 July 2011 motorboatsmonthly.co.uk 49