San Bernardino National Forest Front Country Ranger District

For more information, please contact: MORMON ROCKS Front Country Ranger District INTERPRETIVE TRAIL 1209 Lytle Creek Road Lytle Creek, CA 92358 Telephone: 909-382-2851 FAX: 909-887-3989 TTY: 909-887-5783

Research for this brochure was provided by Suzie Earp, Masters Candidate in History at State University, San Bernardino, through an internship pro- gram funded by the Adventure Pass.

The following people and agencies also contributed: San Bernardino County Museum Photos of the Santa Fe Railroad, Toll house, and Yucca sandals Valley Museum Photo of the Mojave Indians University of the Pacific Painting of Jedediah Smith, Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Libraries. Additional thanks to the Jedediah Smith Society for their infor- mation on the details of Jedediah Smith’s life and travels. CAJON PASS: University of California, Riverside Photo of San Bernardino Chinatown used with permission of the Special A HERITAGE RESOURCE Collections, University of California, Riverside. Andy Alberti Photo of Blue Cut/ Fire on I-15 James Ramos Photo of San Manuel Mission Band of Indians

The Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in its pro- grams on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, religion, age, disability, political beliefs and marital or familial status. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities who require alternative means for communication of program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact the USDA Office of Com- munication at (202) 720-5881 (voice) or (202) 720-7808 (TDD). To file a complaint, write the Secretary of Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C. 20250. Or call (202) 720-7327 (voice) or (202) 720-1127 (TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity employer. United States Prepared by San Bernardino Department of Forest Service National Agriculture Forest R5-RG-016 Printed on recycled paper 2013 fighting wildfires. However, holders to the national treasury CAJON PASS Mother Nature must be dealt that are assessed on income from with very carefully. Heavy that use. vegetation that had built up over Decisions on whether to issue many years without fires was a new special use permits have threat to the Mormon Rocks been made under the regulations Fire Station, which was built in of the National Environmental 1967. In 1996, firefighters from Policy Act (NEPA) since 1969. this Ranger District conducted a Would the view be somewhat “controlled burn” to reduce the different today if that Act had fuel load. That helped to save been passed in 1869? the station when the Louisiana Fire swept through here in late Station 22: Modern Times June of 2002. Today, the Mormon Rocks formation is popular for rock climbing. Equestrians ride the trails on Baldy Mesa, which you can see along the skyline to the north. Hikers pass through on the Pacific Crest Trail, which crosses Highway 15 and traverses the ridgeline to the south. The 2002 Fire in Cajon Pass National Forests accommodate some unusual recreational activities. A club holds a big Station 21: Special Uses radio controlled glider event on TRAVEL ROUTES IN THE CAJON PASS AREA All of the human-made facilities the mesa every spring where the (PARTIAL OVERVIEW) seen from this location, other winds are just right. than the fire station, are under This area has provided the “special use permits” from the background for filming of Forest Service, including roads, numerous movies, television railroads and utilities. A special shows and commercials. Captain use permit is a license for an Kirk and Spock visited this part encroachment on public land of the galaxy for the early “Star that is beneficial to the public. Trek” TV series. The public benefits in two ways: Over 46 million vehicles travel The Adventure Pass program has funded from the use of the land, and through the pass annually. the trail interpretation from fees paid by the permit Cajon Pass. turning the once lush mountains about A.D. 1200 to the mid 1800s (about 700-800 years). Before the Telegraph lines arrived with the to barren devastation. Wildfires WELCOME Serrano, archaic hunters and railroad in 1885. These were burned unchecked. to the gatherers lived in the area for eventually replaced by telephone On February 14, 1893, President Mormon Rocks thousands of years. lines. Looking towards the east Benjamin Harrison set aside the Interpretive Trail you can see tall towers that carry San Bernardino Forest Reserve in Station : The Serrano electrical lines from Hoover an early attempt to address these The land around you is rich in 2 Dam to . problems. “heritage resources.” As you “Serrano” is a Spanish word mean- These lines were the first of Reforestation, fire walk the trail, pause to read the ing “mountaineer.” The Serrano their kind in the world. (They prevention, and section of the brochure that probably referred to themselves weren’t sure at the time if it watershed corresponds to the numbered as “the people,” or “Takhtam” in would work!) This set a protection post. At each stop, take a look their language. Numerous precedent for future projects. became the major into the history of Cajon Pass, Serrano villages surrounded the Two natural gas lines were laid focus for the San which has made a large contri- Mormon Rocks area. About a through Cajon Pass by Southern Bernardino bution to our culture. mile to the southeast, near the truck scales on Interstate 15, was Counties Gas Company in the National President Harrison Most of the land in this area is 1960s. The California- Forest. Today, owned by the citizens of the the village of Muscupiabit. Corporation routed its jet fuel this Forest is also a major United States, and is managed Several village sites were in line from Edwards Air Force recreational resource for southern today by the USDA Forest nearby Crowder Canyon to the Base to Colton. Pacific California’s huge population. Service. northeast. A large village named Telephone put in underground Guapiabit was to the east in communications cables in the Station 20: Fire! Station 1: Mormon Rocks Summit Valley. From these villages, seasonal forays were 1960s. Recently, two fiber optic Numerous fires started by sparks This area is called “Mormon made into the surrounding hills lines were laid. from steam locomotives Rocks,” but perhaps a more and mountains. (See the map on traversing the pass caused severe fitting title would be “Serrano left..) Station 19: Forest damage to the watershed, which Rocks.” The name refers to the Service the local communities depended jutting sandstone formations Station 3: Living Wild Towards the end of the 1880s, on. In 1914, the first fire lookout that provided brief shelter for citizens of San Bernardino tower in the San Bernardino Mormon colonists who crossed The Serrano lived in domed County sought protection for mountains was erected in Cajon this area in 1851 and founded brush houses. Acorns, plentiful the forests in the San Gabriel Pass on land owned by Victor Ver the city of San Bernardino. in the region, were made edible and Bryck, in a cooperative effort by grinding them with a mortar Prior to the arrival of Spanish by the Federal Government. between the Forest Service and and Anglo pioneers, the Watershed protection was a local ranchers. The Ver Bryck Mormon Rocks area was the major concern. Water for the lookout was located just below heartland of the Serrano people. valley below was dependent on the summit, about three miles Originally from the eastern the mountains above. The northeast of here. area, the Serrano forests were over cut and The Forest Service was very had occupied this area from overgrazed by vast sheep herds, successful at preventing and Mortar Holes and pestle and washing the flour Native in the course two lane road was built to serve a that are crossing the pass daily. with water to remove the bitter of their hunting and gathering ‘new-fangled’ contraption; the tannic acid. This process left lifestyle became well defined automobile. It became Route 66 Station 17: Chinese behind the many mortar holes trails. Those that followed in 1926, a popular highway that Railroad Workers that can be found throughout the incorporated these trails into author John Steinbeck dubbed the When the first railroad was built region. The important trade “Mother Road”. through Cajon Pass, most of neighborhood routes. Interstate 15, which replaced the labor was provided by also provided The Mojave Trail was Route 66 in 1970, can be seen Chinese workers. In 1883, pine nuts, used primarily by the from here to the east. 2,500 Chinese men replaced the yucca hearts, Mojave Indians that predominantly Mexican crew numerous made the Colorado Station 16: Railroads that had been building the line. seeds, and a river their home. The Chinese laborers did most variety of As early as Yucca Fiber Sandals This foot trail climbed of the extensive cut and fill game animals. 1853 the US over the steep mountain Government work in Cajon Pass, entirely by Serrano men wore breechclouts ranges and was the most direct had surveyed hand, moving the tons of and buckskin leggings. Women route to the coast from the desert Cajon Pass as a material with hand carts. After wore two-piece skin skirts. regions. possible the track was completed, a few Chinese came back to Cajon Clothing was adorned with Beginning in 1830, the Spanish location for beadwork of seashells, stones, railroad lines to Pass to work small gold and Trail connected Santa Fe with the silver mines. Some settled in bone, and seeds. Sandals were west coast through the Cajon tie the Missis- Train in Cajon San Bernardino as it had a well made from woven fiber from Pass. Caravans of mules with sippi Valley to yucca leaves. Like other groups the Pacific coast. Over the developed “Chinatown” at loads of trade goods made the rd of the region, they tattooed the subsequent years several attempts approximately 3 and yearly trip to California in the fall, Arrowhead Avenue. upper portions of their bodies. and returned east the following were made to lay track, but it spring. wasn’t until 1885 that the Station 4: The Early California Southern Railroad was Traders able to complete a single track The Serrano were a part of an through the pass. CSR later extensive trading network, dealing merged to become part of the in shell beads, otter skins and Santa Fe Railroad. It added a soapstone from the coast, and second line in 1913. Southern , chert, and other trade Pacific laid their lines in 1967. items from the northeast. The Devore, Keenbrook and Cajon San Bernardino Chinatown, 1880s Serrano contributed primarily were places to stop and fill the baskets, pottery, and various steam engine tenders with water. Station 18: Utilities products of the mountain forests. If you look east towards Inter- Most of the major utilities on state 15 you are likely to see one Station 5: Trails which Southern Californians of the 50 to 100 freight trains depend are routed through Routes repeatedly traveled by Today, the San Manuel Band of about a mile down the canyon reasons, is also used as a utility Station : The Mojaves (Serrano) have a from here. Limestone was 6 corridor for power lines, tele- one mile square reservation on trucked to the mill from mines The Mojave Indians were said to graph (then telephone) lines, and the edge of the San Bernardino in Lone Pine, Swarthout, and be able to travel up to pipe lines carrying Mountains just north of the city Cajon Canyons. 100 miles a day at a water, natural gas, of Highland, from where they trot without stopping and even jet fuel. have developed a multifaceted Station 15: Roads to eat or drink. They were excellent traders, and expanding business enter- When mining activity in the San Station 8: and traveled to distant prise. They are also working with Bernardino Mountains began in Spanish Path- locations along the the San Bernardino National the 1850s, wagon traffic finders coast of California and Forest at the Big Bear Discovery increased significantly through While the British all the way to New Center to educate Forest visitors Cajon Pass. John Brown was Empire still ruled to trade with about their traditional culture. granted a 20 year franchise by the American other Native American the California State Legislature colonies, the Tribes. Station 14: Mining to construct a toll road. From Spanish were Gold finds in Cajon Pass were the top of the toll road, miners They were outstanding traveling through modest. However, this did not and their supplies could get into potters, and their Mojave Indians Cajon Pass. Pedro stop the prospectors. In the late the mountains through the pottery was a major part of Fages, a Spanish military 1800s, small amounts of gold desert on the newly built public their trading. commander, explored the pass in were found, and each find Van Dusen-Coxey Road. In The Mojave were known for 1772 while looking for deserters. brought a hundred others who their distinctive facial tattoos. Francisco Garcés came over the were hopeful of making a strike. pass via the Mojave Trail in 1776 Silver was found in somewhat Station 7: The Gateway on his way to the San Gabriel larger amounts, but small scale Mission from the Colorado River. operations were the rule, with one The shortest, fastest, easiest way In 1806, Jose Zalvidea made a or two miners on a claim. There to escape the inhospitable high trek through the pass looking for were a number of coal mines desert to find relief in coastal a site for a mission to link the developed in the pass, beginning California was through the gap coastal missions with the inland in 1879. The Black Prince Mine between the rugged San Bernar- areas. in the canyon between Swarthout John Brown Toll House dino and San Gabriel mountain and Cajon had a fifty foot shaft to ranges: Cajon Pass. Travel to the Gabriel Moraga and a band of 35 reach the coal. There were also 1882, the toll road was deeded north through Fremont Pass soldiers crossed the pass in 1819. the Cajon Canyon and Summit back to San Bernardino County. was longer and harder. Travel Moraga’s diary complained of Coal Mines that hauled their coal to the south through the bitter cold weather and scarce The National Old Trails Road down to San Bernardino for Sonoran Desert was awful. feed for their horses. Moraga’s was built in 1915 as part of the home use. party was the first to use the transcontinental road system Trails, roads, railroads, and word cajon (box) for the Pass, A limestone mill and quarry was that later became part of the US finally highways connected the Cajon de Amuscupiabit. built in 1924 along Highway 138 Highway System. This paved American southwest through the pass to California. The same route, for the same survivors crossed over the thirst and hunger, a sad loss to their families to establish a Station 9: Jedediah Smith mountains by way of Cajon both thieves and rightful colony. In 1851, almost 500 In 1822, California became the Pass, the first Anglo Americans owners. The horse drive east Mormons set out from to territory of Mexico, and the to do so, and spent five days in from there could not have been make San Bernardino their home. authorities were wary of the , much easier. The caravan mostly followed the American expansion. where they were Old Spanish Trail, crossing the Jedediah Smith, 27 able to restock their Station 11: Walkara pass in early June. years old, and a group provisions before One noted leader of the horse Their 150 wagons used consid- of 18 trappers made a heading back over raids was a Paiute chief known erable livestock, making feed and trip to California in the pass. Two as Walkara, the “Hawk of the water an important consideration 1826 in search of decided to stay Mountains.” Walkara was both when stopping in the pass. They beavers. They made behind in the an excellent horseman and skill- camped at Willow Springs, the their way from the verdant, sunny land. ful with weapons. During the location of the Serrano Village of Colorado River and Smith never 1840s, Walkara allied himself Amuscopiabit, before making reached the San returned to Southern with mountain men Thomas their way to a grove of sycamore Bernardino Valley, via California. “Pegleg” Smith and Jim Beck- Jedediah Smith trees about two miles west of the Mojave Trail, on wourth to pull off some of the present day Devore. November 26. They Station 10: Horse largest horse-stealing raids of all stayed in the Southern California Thieves times. They hid thousands of Station 13: Serrano: An area until February 1, when they The huge California rancheros horses in Cajon Pass. era of change headed back over the Mojave had vast herds of horses. New Livestock raids continued for Trail. Smith and his mountain Compared to neighboring tribes, Mexico, Colorado, and points many years, until increased the Serrano remained relatively men were the first Americans to east needed horses, and people settlement of the valleys below isolated from Spanish and later enter California overland. Smith there were willing to pay a high put an end to them. Mexican intrusions. Traditional was treated with courtesy by a price for them. Horse thieves Serrano life came to a sudden halt suspicious Governor, and with went to work to fill the need. Station 12: Mormons in the early 1860s, at the time of generous hospitality by the the American Civil War. Major Californians. By the 1830s, large organized In 1848, a small group of raids on the rancheros in the Mormon men came through conflicts with encroaching A year later Smith returned valleys below became common. Cajon Pass ranchers, with 18 trappers. It was a rough When thousands of horses on military extended trip. Ten of Smith’s men were thundered through Cajon Pass, duties. periods of killed and two were seriously they created a cloud of dust that They were draught, and injured in an ambush by could be seen for 30 miles. The so the onslaught Mojaves, who were seeking thieves often hid the horses in impressed of foreign revenge following provocations what today is called Horsethief with the diseases, from by another band of trappers. Canyon, three miles east of here, valley below which they Smith’s party lost all of their only to discover that water and that they had little Sharing their heritage: Members of the San immunity, all horses, traps, munitions, and feed were in short supply. decided to Manuel Band of Mission Indians most of their guns. The Hundreds of horses died of return with took their toll.