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Equatorial America, Descriptive of a Visit to St. Thomas, Martinique, Barbadoes, and the Principal Capitals of South America

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Equatorial America, Descriptive of a Visit to St. Thomas, Martinique, Barbadoes, and the Principal Capitals of South America EQUATORIAL ^ AMERICA MATURIN M.BALLOU •.ed, and any soiling, injm^ oc paid for by the borrower. -0 LIBRARY X' 0NIVER3IU OF CALIFORNIA SAN DIEGO V. J(;\. 1 Vte; -'^1 iy > (^^ .B)f TOlo comrnr TEACHER'S IclBRARY. *'' v«^aaa*«af^aMa««a DISCARDED s t V Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/equatorialamericOOballiala ^p iHatttritt iH. ^allott. EQUATORIAL AMERICA. Descriptive of a Visit to St. Thomas, Martinique, Barbadoes, and the Principal Capi- tals of South America. A New Book. Crown 8vo, $1.50. AZTEC LAND. Crown 8vo, $1.50. THE NEW ELDORADO. A Summer Journey to Alaska. Crown 8vo, $1.50. A LA S K A. The New Eldorado. A Summer Journey to Alaska. Tourists Edition, with 4 maps. i6mo, $1.00. DUE WEST; or, Round the World in Ten Months. Crown 8vo, $1.50. DUE SOUTH ; or, Cuba Past and Present. Crown 8vo, Ir.jo. UNDER THE SOUTHERN CROSS; or, Travei^ tn Aus- tralasia. Crown 8vo, 1 1. 50. DUE NORTH ; or. Glimpses of Scandinavia and Russia. Crown 8vo, #1.50. GENIUS IN SUNSHINE AND SHADOW. Crown 8vo, $1.50. EDGE-TOOLS OF SPEECH. Selected and edited by Mr. BALLOtl. 8vO, ^3.50. A TREASURY OF THOUGHT. An Encyclopedia of Quo- tations. 8vo, full gilt, $3.50. PEARLS OF THOUGHT. i6mo, full gilt, 51.25. NOTABLE THOUGHTS ABOUT WOMEN. Crown 8vo, $1.50. HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & COMPANY, Boston and New York. EQUATORIAL AMERICA DESCRIPTIVE OF A VISIT TO ST. THOMAS MARTINIQUE, BARBADOES, AND THE PRINCIPAL CAPITALS OF SO UTH AMERICA MATURIN M.iBALLOU •m^ BOSTON AND NEW YORK HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY 1892 Copyright, 1892, By MATURIN M. BALLOU. All rights reserved. ITit Rivtrnde Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A. Electrotyped and Printed by H. 0. Houghton & Company. 6 2.. DEDICATED TO CAPTAIN E. C. BAKER OF THE STEAMSHIP VJGILANCIA WITH WARM APPRECIATION OF HIS QUALITIES AS A GENTLEMAN AND AN ACCOMPLISHED SEAMAN PREFACE. " I AM a part of all that I have seen," says Tenny- son, a sentiment which every one of large experience will heartily indorse. With the extraordinary facili- ties for travel available in modem times, it is a serious mistake in those who possess the means, not to become familiar with the various sections of the globe. Vivid descriptions and excellent photographs give us a certain knowledge of the great monuments of the world, both natural and artificial, but the trav- eler always finds the reality a new revelation, whether it be the marvels of a Yellowstone Park, a vast oriental temple, Alaskan glaciers, or the Pyramids of Ghiza. The latter, for instance, do not differ from the statistics which we have so often seen recorded, their great, dominating outlines are the same as pic- toriaUy delineated, but when we actually stand before them, they are touched by the wand of enchantment, and spring into visible life. Heretofore they have been shadows, henceforth they are tangible and real. The best descriptions fail to inspire us, experience ; VI PREFACE. alone can do that. "What words can adequately depict the confused grandeur of the Falls of Schaffhausen the magnificence of the Himalayan range, — roof-tree of the world ; the thrilling beauty of the Ybsemite Valley ; the architectural loveliness of the Taj Mahal, of India ; the starry splendor of equatorial nights the maritime charms of the Bay of Naples ; or the marvel of the Midnight Sun at the North Cape ? It is personal observation alone which truly satisfies, educating the eye and enriching the understanding. If we can succeed in imparting a portion of our en- joyment to others, we enhance our own pleasure, and therefore these notes of travel are given to the public. M. M. B. — CONTENTS. CHAPTER L PAOB Commencement of a Long Journey. — The Gulf Stream. — Hayti. — Sighting St. Thomas. — Ship Rock. — Expert Divers. Fidgety Old Lady. — An Lnportant Island. — The Old Slaver. — Aborigines. — St. Thomas Cigars. — Population. — Tri- Mountain. — The Neg^o Paradise. — Hurricanes. — Variety of Fish. — Coaling Ship. — The Firefly Dance. — A Weird Scene. — An Antique Anchor 1 CHAPTER II. f Curious Seaweed. — Professor Agassiz. — Mjrth of a Lost Conti- nent. — Island of Martinique. — An Attractive Place. — Statue of the Empress Josephine. — Birthplace of Madame de Main- tenon. — City of St. Pierre. — Mont Pel4e. — High Flavored Specialty. — Grisettes of Maritinque. — A Botanical Garden; — Defective Drainage. — A Fatal Enemy. — A Cannibal Snake. — The CUmate 33 CHAPTER IIL English Island of Barbadoes. — Bridgetown the Capital. — The Manufacture of Rum. — A Geographical Expert. — Very Eng- lish. — A Pest of Ants. — Exports. — The Ice House. — A Dense Population. — Educational. — Marine Hotel. — Habits of Gambling. — Hurricanes. — Curious Antiquities. — The Bar- badoes Leg. — Wakeful Dreams. — Absence of Twilight. — Departure from the Island 51 CHAPTER IV. Curious Ocean Experiences. — The Delicate Nautilus. — Flying- Fish. — The Southern Cross. — Speaking a Ship at Sea. — viii CONTENTS. Scientific Navigation. — South America as a Whole. — Fanna and Flora. — Natural Resources of a Wonderful Land. — Rivers, Plains, and Mountain Ranges. — Aboriginal Tribes. — Population. — Political Divisions. — Civil Wars. — Weakness of South American States 68 CHAPTER V. City of Pari. — The Equatorial Line. — Spanish History. — The King of Waters. — Private Gardens. — Domestic Life in North- em Brazil. — Delicious Pineapples. — Family Pets. — Opera House. — Mendicants. — A Grand Avenue. — Botanical Gar- den. — India-Rubber Tree. — Gathering the Raw Material. — Monkeys. — The Royal Palm. — Splendor of Equatorial Nights 94 CHAPTER VI. Island of Marajo. — Rare and Beautiful Birds. — Original Mode of Securing Humming-Birds- — MaranhSo. — Educational. — Value of Native Forests. — Pemambuco. — Difficulty of Land- ing. — An Ill-Chosen Name. — Local Scenes. — Uncleanly Hab- it* of the People. — Great Sugar Mart. — Native Houses. — A Quaint Hostelry. — Catamarans. — A Natural Breakwater. — Siuling down the Coast 115 CHAPTER VII. Port of Bahia. — A Qaunt Old City. — Former Capital of Brazil. — Whaling Interests. — Beautiful Panorama. — Tramways. — No Color Line Here. — The Sedan Chair. — Feather Flowers. — A Great Orange Mart. — Passion Flower Fruit. — Coffee, Sugar, and Tobacco. — A Coffee Plantation. — Something about Dia- monds. — Health of the City. — Curious Tropical Street Scenes 138 CHAPTER VIII. Cape Frio. — Rio Janeiro. — A Splendid Harbor. — Various Mountains. — Botafogo Bay. — The Hunchback. — Farewell to the Vigilancia. — Tijuca. — Italian Emigrants. — City In- stitutions. — Public Amusements. — Street Musicians. — Churches. — Narrow Thoroughfares. — Merchants' Clerks. — Railroads in Brazil. — Natural Advantages of the City. — The Public Plazas. — EzportB 155 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER IX. Outdoor Scenes in Rio Janeiro. — The Little Marmoset. — The Fish Market. — Secluded Women. — The Romish Church. — Botanical Garden. — Various Species of Trees. — Grand Ave- nue of Royal Palms. — About Humming-Birds. — Climate of Rio. — Surrounded by Yellow Fever. — The Country Inland. — Begging on the Streets. — Flowers. — " Portuguese Joe." — Social Distinctions 180 CHAPTER X. Petropolis. — Summer Residence of the Citizens of Rio. — Brief Sketch of the late Royal Family. — Dom Pedro's Palace. —A Delightful Mountain Sanitarium. — A Successful but Bloodless Revolution. — Floral Delights. — Mountain Scenery. — Heavy Gambling. — A German Settlement. — Casca- tinha. — Remarkable Orchids. — Local Types. — A Brazilian Forest. — Compensation 201 CHAPTER XL Port of Santos. — Yellow Fever Scourge. — DoAvn the Coast to Montevideo. — The Cathedral. — Pamperos. — Domestic Ar- chitecture. — A Grand Thoroughfare. — City Institutions. — Commercial Advantages. — The Opera House. — The Bull- Fight. — Beggars on Horseback. — City Shops. — A Typical Character. — Intoxication. — The Campo Santo. — Exports. — Rivers and Railways 217 CHAPTER XIL Buenos Ayres. — Extent of the Argentine Republic. — Popula- tion. — Narrow Streets. — Large Public Squares. — Basques. — Poor Harbor. — Railway System. — River Navigation. — Tramways. — The Cathedral. — Normal Schools. — News- papers. — Public Buildings. — Calle Florida. — A Busy City. — Mode of furnishing Milk. — Environs. — Commercial and Political Growth. — The New Capital 244 CHAPTER XIII. City of Rosario. — Its Population. — A Pretentions Church. — Ocean Experiences. — Morbid Fancies. — Strait of Magellan. X CONTENTS. — A Great Discoverer. — Local Characteristics. — Patago- nians and Fuegians. — Giant Kelp. — Unique Mail Box. — Punta Arenas. — An Ex-Penal Colony. — The Albatross. — Natives. — A Naked People. — Whales. — Sea-Birds.*— Gla- ciers. — Mount Sarmiento. — A Singpilar Story 271 CHAPTER XIV. The Land of Fire. — Cape Horn. — In the Open Pacific. — Fellow Passengers. — Large Sea-Bird. — An Interesting Invalid. — A Weary Captive. — A Broken-Hearted Mother. — Study of the Heavens. — The Moon. — Chilian Civil War. — Concepcion. — A Growing City. — Commercial Importance. — Cultivating City Gardens on a New Plan. — Important Coal Mines. — Delicious Fruits 297 CHAPTER XV. Valparaiso. — Principal South American Port of the Pacific. — A Good Harbor. — Tallest Mountain on this Continent. — The Newspaper Press. — Warlike Aspect. — Girls as Car Con- ductors. — Chilian Exports. — Foreign Merchants. — Effects of Civil War. — Gambling in Private Houses. — Immigration. — Culture of the Grape. — Agriculture. — Island of Juan Fernandez 315 CHAPTER XVI. The Port of Callao. — A Submerged City. — Peruvian Exports. — A Dirty and Unwholesome Town. —
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