Aquavit Vol1t.Indd

aquavit spring 2007

MEET JOHAN SVENSSON • SPRING FEVER IN STOCKHOLM • A NEW TWIST ON AN OLD SPIRIT • PASTRIES, SWEDE PASTRIES FW5305_Borrome_8.25x10.875_StarRating_f 11/13/06 5:20 PM Page 1

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This year marks the 20th Anniversary of Aquavit. Back then, Aquavit was the ﬁrst Scandinavian restaurant to open in New York in over 25 years and the only modern Scandinavian restaurant in the US. Despite the odds, the public and the press were very kind and we became an instant hit on West 54th street.

Aquavit has always been a real trailblazer on the Manhattan dining scene. Farmed Atlantic salmon was relatively new to the market when we opened and yet we always offered at least three salmon entrees in addition to gravlax and smoked salmon. We ﬂavored vodkas 15 different ways, displaying them proudly on our bar, and our guests went through hundreds of bottles every night. We were also crazy enough to have two distinct dining rooms with seperate menus: a casual home cooking café and a formal dining room. It was a confusing idea – according to most industry insiders – but provided an appreciated option for our diners. The two-room concept is still very much a part of who we are today and how we approach hospitality. Many restaurants have since adopted the same idea.

In the past twenty years, we’ve had so many memorable moments, from our glorious 5 star reviews and Marcus Samuelsson’s Best Chef honors, to making it into the Fine Dining Hall of Fame (a ﬁrst for a Swedish restaurant). We have served many legends, notably the late Greta Garbo, and we proudly host the royal families of Scandinavia whenever they are in NY.

There are many more proud Aquavit milestones but our plans for the future are even more exciting. Now that our new home on 55th street feels comfortably broken-in, we will reach back to our Swedish roots in a few months and open Aquavit Stockholm in the brand new 5-star Clarion Sign in downtown Stockholm.

Our passion for bread has led us to start a Northern European bakery, serving sandwiches, salads and pastries. AQ Kafe opens at the end of the summer at three Manhattan locations, with baked delicacies from Vienna to Stockholm for you to savor.

We proudly welcome you to the premier issue of Aquavit Magazine. In these pages, we take you behind the scenes of our daily pursuit for excellence. You’ll ﬁnd a veritable smorgasbord of features, interviews and recipes to enrich your knowledge of our cultural heritage and your enjoyment of our food.

Skal!

Håkan Swahn Owner Aquavit Restaurant

AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 3 4 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT MEET JOHAN SVENSSON

Ever since Marcus Samuelsson rocketed to the kind of super stardom some chefs work for decades to achieve and even then only dream of, Aquavit has become a most desirable destination for young Swedish chefs.

The restaurant has always been a springboard 11 girls and me!” Something told him he wanted for launching remarkable careers. The sense of to cook. Svensson certainly paid his dues. He national pride associated with working here is a worked his way up from dishwasher and busboy testament to Aquavit’s cutting edge cuisine and on a canal boat, and barbecuing reindeer in a to its iconic status as a Scandinavian cultural teepee at a conference hotel in the North, to institution. sous chef at a ski resort before applying for the Aquavit apprenticeship. Blazing a trail to stardom in the culinary world, Aquavit’s newly appointed Executive Chef, After returning to Aquavit, Johan spent a year Johan Svensson, is under the mandate of his under Chef Samuelsson’s guidance mastering mentor Samuelsson. “Johan deals with the day- every station in the kitchen. Then he accepted a to-day demands of the Aquavit kitchen,” explains position as line cook at Bond Street NY, which led Samuelsson. “It’s not easy to ﬁnd the right person him to Nobu, London. He returned to Bond Street to take over the helm. But Johan has proved NY as a sous chef. He was made executive sous himself the perfect choice. He has the talent to chef at Town before accepting the position of be great!” The two men have had a long and executive chef at Samuelsson’s Japanese fusion restaurant Riingo. Executive chef at Aquavit is fruitful association. his most challenging position to date. “It’s really In 1997, Svensson, a young man with culinary two kitchens in one: the restaurant and the café. aspirations, wrote a letter to Samuelsson I run a quiet, disciplined kitchen. It must be a very requesting an apprenticeship at Aquavit. After focused environment.” Samuelsson agrees: “It a three-week stint in the world-renowned can get intense which is why it’s so important the kitchen, he returned to Sweden inspired by his team ﬁt well together.” mentor’s unique food philosophy, creativity and The chefs have a lot in common. Both men culinary skills. When Samuelsson called a few attended the Culinary Institute in Göteborg. months later to invite him back, he leapt at the Both apprenticed at Aquavit – Samuelsson for chance. “It’s not every day New York calls!” laughs 8 months before accepting a position in France. Svensson. Both returned shortly after leaving, Samuelsson The youngest of four boys, Johan studied to cook under the late Jan Sendel. And both home economics because there was no math have found New York to be the perfect place for requirement. “There were 12 of us in the program, their culinary talents to bloom.

AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 5 Deeply inspired by seasonality, the spring IN HIS REFRIGERATOR: reminds Svensson of his idyllic childhood Fresca diet soda. English muffins and eggs, in the tiny village of Torsö, an island in Lake to make brunch for his wife. Vanern. “Spring meant the fishing nets that my FAVORITE HOME-COOKED MEAL: grandfather had been putting together over His mom’s fried pork with onion gravy and the winter were finally going to see the water. peeled potatoes. “It’s messy but I insist she It was a very happy time, lots of running around makes it for me when ever I go home!” in puddles of water!” CHEF’S TIP: Of the new produce the season yields, Svensson Use low sodium soy sauce instead of salt. relishes the appearance of spring onions, parsley and chives. “I also look forward to the BEVERAGE OF CHOICE: wild ramps and morels, which appear in March.” A Mimosa. “I love Champagne!” His recommendations to Aquavit diners: the PERFECT END TO A MEAL: salmon dish with beef cheeks and the beer- A sparkling sake and cheese. “There’s a triple braised short ribs. In the café, Svensson suggests cream goat cheese that clogs your arteries like the snapper and the pork chop. nothing else!” Svensson finds his day off essential for IN SWEDEN: rejuvenating his creativity. “When you’re creating Visit the Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi, go summer menus you sometimes need a little distance to skiing in Riksgransen, which is close to the gain a broader perspective.” On a perfect spring Norwegian border, or cross country skiing day, Johan can be found biking in Battery Park. up to Kebnekaise, the highest mountain in Like most Swedes, he confesses that talking Sweden. about his dreams makes him feel shy. One day IN NEW YORK: he’d like to own a restaurant but for right now Svensson loves the energy of the city. “I the pride associated with working at Aquavit usually get restless in one place – but that is what makes him tick. “It’s an honor to work hasn’t happened here yet,” he muses, “because at the most famous Scandinavian restaurant everything’s constantly changing every day.” outside of Scandinavia,” he beams.

At finer restaurants in Paris, London, New York and of course, Milan.

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PEG_PER_06016K_D_1D1.INDD TRAVEL Spring Fever in Stockholm Founded in 1252, this medieval port city has evolved into the most radiant capital city in Scandinavia. Aptly known as Beauty on Water, its 14 islands ﬂoating on Lake Malaren and the Baltic Sea are home to more than a million people.

A perfect blend of old and new, the city, with return of spring and lit great bonfires to frighten Spring is the perfect its royal splendor, historic architecture and away the demons of darkness. time to explore gleaming waterways is the official epicenter Today, crowds of mostly students gather around Stockholm’s glorious of Nordic chic: the vanguard of design, roaring bonfires to drink and make merry, contemporary art, fashion, and even fine architecture from singing traditional spring songs to welcome the cuisine. Five of Stockholm’s top restaurants warmer, longer days. under its 57 bridges, earned stars from Le Guide Michelin. Boasting by canal boat. Often over 70 museums, 100 art galleries and more If you’re in Stockholm, join the festivities at restaurants and cafes per capita than any other Skansen, an open-air museum and animal park, called the Venice of the city worldwide, it’s no surprise that Stockholm on the green island oasis of Djurgården. Since North, one third of the 1894, thousands of revelers arrive on Walpurgis is a travel hotspot attracting millions of visitors city is water. The more annually from around the globe. Eve to watch the tremendous bonfire of logs and tar barrels blazing dramatically from the adventurous can catch Of course most of them come in the summers, top of Reindeer Mountain. The program has not a steamboat headed which tend to be crowded. The long-awaited changed since then and includes choral singing, gentle arrival of spring is the most ideal time for the Skärgård: games such as the traditional Bat The Cat Out to explore the delights of the city, as it the Stockholm of the Vat and fireworks to add to the spectacle. emerges renewed from hibernation. Throughout The traditional meal on this evening is delicious archipelago, a popular Sweden the first signs of spring, marked by the gravlax - fresh salmon marinated in salt, sugar holiday destination blooming of wood anemones, are greeted with and dill – Sweden’s national herb. unrestrained joy. After the long dark months of for Stockholmers winter, as if driven by some biological imperative, At the heart of Stockholm is Gamla Stan, the encompassing over Swedes rush outside to soak up the sun’s rays. In oldest and most charming area. When you 20,000 islands. Stockholm, sun seekers dine at outdoor cafes, visit the impressive Royal Palace, don’t miss the or cycle through quaint streets and landscaped daily changing-of-the-guard! Storkyrkan, a 15th gardens, basking in the first light of the new century church and the site of royal coronations season. and weddings, stands next door. No visit is complete without losing oneself in the antique The season’s official welcome is Walpurgis Night, shops along the winding cobblestone streets. celebrated on April 30. This festival is steeped in This is also a great neighborhood for fika, the ancient belief that survives from Viking days, Swedish pastime of satisfying one’s sweet expressing the countrywide spirit of elation. tooth, with coffee houses abounding. Warriors held an annual feast to honor the

8 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 9 TRAVEL

The Food Lovers’ Guide to Stockholm

Smaklig Maltid! Swedish Fish: Skal! Satisfying a The smorgasbord at the Stockholm is of course Oenophiles and aquavit Sweet Tooth: Grand Hotel is not to be renowned for its piscatorial aficionados, stop in at Riddarbageriet missed! delights. The water is said The Historical Museum of AQ’s pastry chef Carina to be so clean that, in fact, Wine and Spirits. Explore Ahlin once worked at this For unparalleled you can catch salmon in the the history, culture and renowned bakery. They Fine dining, eat at middle of the city. technology of wine and spirit deliver to the king and queen one of the Guide making. Try Swedish punsch, and many of the city’s best Visit Melanders Fisk, one Michelin Star test your sense of smell with restaurants. Try the dense of the most venerable Restaurants: 55 aquavit and vodka spices cardamom-and-cinnamon fishmongers in the city. F12 and listen to traditional breads and pastries made Or partake in the veritable Lux Swedish drinking songs! with fresh lingonberries. maritime feast at Wedholm’s Mistral Fisk, one of Stockholm’s Vete-Katten Operakallaren famed seafood restaurants. One of the city’s oldest fika Edsbacka Krog (30 minutes (sweet snack) houses, the from the city – but worth it!) To Market: aroma of cookies baking Vassa Eggen Stockholm’s famous food The water makes it impossible to pass The only restaurant markets are great for getting by without stopping in. Try in Stockholm to make a sense of Swedish food is said to the semlor-a sweet bun filled Michelin’s Rising Star list. culture. Östermalmshallen be so clean with marzipan, topped with carries traditional Swedish The newly opened GQ whipped cream. breads, cheeses, meats and that, in is a red hot ticket! Laurent Tassell a selection of gleaming fact, you Patisserie Gourmandise For husmanskost, or seafood. The Saluhall (food The first Swede to be a traditional Swedish home hall) of the department store can catch member of Relais Dessert cooking, try KB, established NK boasts 10,000 products salmon in International serves up a in 1931, serving classic dishes including Swedish delicacies the middle feast of sweet treats. like reindeer, elk and salmon. like smoked reindeer, moose, Vasterbotten cheese with of the city. cumin, elderberries and cloudberries.

10 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT Getting There: SAS, Continental and United Airlines offer direct ﬂights from Newark to Stockholm.

Where to Stay: Nordic Light and Hotel Rival Rex Hotel and Nordic Sea Hotels Formerly the deco Aston Hotel Hellsten Maritime-themed Hotel, it is now owned by Hotel owner and and minimalistic, the ABBA star Benny Andersson. photojournalist Per neighboring Nordic Light and This hotel has its own cinema Hellsten’s documentary-style Nordic Sea Hotels, are very and features supremely work adorn the walls of his close to Gamla Stan. Visit the comfortable Swedish made Rex Hotel. Heated floors world’s first permanent Ice beds! and towel racks have been Bar in the Nordic Sea Hotel. installed in the Karystos- stone bathrooms of this restored 1866 townhouse. He also owns the refurbished Visit the world’s first permanent Hotel Hellsten across the street. This building dates Ice Bar in the Nordic Sea Hotel... from 1898 and its rooms or enjoy the panoramic views at feature traditional porcelain stoves and farm style Gondolen, the tram-car in the sky... antiques.

Where to Play: SoFo district (South Sodermalm, south of Hornstull, a new shopping of Folkungagatan), an the city, is bursting with district, hosts a trendy street overlooked Eastern bloc-style bohemian bars. Try Pelikan market on weekends. neighborhood, where young for Swedish pub food, or Ostermalm on the east entrepreneurs are opening Gondolen, the tram-car in side of the city, offers more shops stocked with their the sky bar, for great vodka sophisticated nightspots. own handmade designs, and the panoramic skyline transforming it into a hub of views. creativity.

AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 1111 AQUAVIT NEW YORK The Old Spirit of Scandinavia Gets a New Twist

The life-giving powers of aquavit, the national drink of Sweden, were ﬁrst reported in the early 1500’s. Essentially, the spirit from which Aquavit restaurant takes its name is aromatic vodka.

Twice distilled from grain or potatoes, the pure the usual 80) was also preferred. Based on these AQUAVIT ALCHEMY: alcohol is infused with botanicals and herbs criteria, Swahn decided to give his patrons what Cucumber, fennel, (most commonly caraway, dill, anise, fennel and they requested time and again over the years: raspberry-lime-ginger, cumin), and then matured to perfect roundness a bottle of white cranberry Aquavit that they orange-lemon, dill, star in oak casks. could bring home! anise – the possibilities “When you don’t come from a wine producing Fresh white cranberries from Massachusetts are are endless! Start with country, you can get very creative with spirits.” flown directly to Sweden where they are bottled a good shelf vodka: says Aquavit’s chef Marcus Samuelsson. During with the best Swedish distilled grain-based a 70-proof spirit is the last 20 years, Aquavit’s bar has served up to vodka under the ever-watchful eye of master recommended. Steep 15 different home-infused varieties daily, ranging blender Henrik Facile. Like the house infusions, with your selection of from the more traditional (coriander, saffron and the product is completely natural, with no fruits, herbs and spices lingonberry), to the unusually exotic (the best- artificial flavoring. “This makes all the difference for three weeks to a selling horseradish, grapefruit-lemongrass and to the taste,” explains Swahn. Crystal clear and month, then strain pumpkin-espresso). In 2005, one unique flavor, richly flavored, Aquavit New York is available at through a large coffee white cranberry, became the first bottled spirit fine liquor stores including Sherry-Lehman and filter. For pumpkin- to be launched by the restaurant commercially Union Square Wine. under the name Aquavit New York. espresso, steep baked Aquavit is Latin for ‘Water of Life.’ Sometimes pumpkin laced with Says proprietor Håkan Swahn: “Aquavit New called Viking Fire Water or rocket fuel, because brown sugar in vodka York developed out of a long dialogue with our for a month. The customers. For years we were serving ready-made of its high proof, Aquavit combines superbly espresso beans are imported aquavits as well as our own house- with almost anything from herring and seafood, added to the mixture made infusions that we spiced and flavored. From to grilled meats and ripe cheeses. It is usually this terrific interchange across the bar, we learned for the final week. imbibed, neat and ice cold, with the appetizer what NY diners responded to.” Swahn noted that aquavits flavored with fruits and berries course, and is said to help the fish swim down to were more popular at the bar than infusions the stomach! A staple at Swedish celebrations, made with herbs and spices. Since aquavit is the three or four different flavored aquavits may be ultimate cocktail base, a transparent color was served to cut the rich holiday cuisine; the spices more desirable than the traditional golden one. A lower alcohol proof (70, less medicinal than and the alcohol are a perfect digestif.

RITUAL FOR DRINKING AQUAVIT: RAISE YOUR GLASS; MAKE EYE CONTACT AND TOAST WITH A HEARTY SKAL! TAKE A SIP. MAKE EYE CONTACT AGAIN. REPEAT!

12 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT COCKTAIL HOUR

White Cosmopolitan 2 ounces AQNY white cranberry

1 ounce Citronge orange liqueur

3 ounces white cranberry juice

juice of 1/2 lemon

dash of simple syrup

cranberry stick, for garnish

Shake the AQUAVIT, Citronge, cranberry and lemon juices, and simple syrup in an ice-ﬁlled tumbler and strain into a martini glass.

Simply place 6 to 8 cranberries on a cocktail pick or bamboo skewer and use it to garnish your cocktails.

Scandinavian

BARTENDER TIP: 1. Boil sugar and water (4 parts sugar to 1 part Spring How to Make Simple Syrup water) in a pot on top of the stove. Use very 8 ounces AQNY white cranberry A bartender uses a dash of high heat and let it cook down for 20 minutes 4 ounces Cherry Heering, simple syrup in cocktails without stirring. (Stirring while boiling will or any cherry brandy for the same reasons a chef crystallize the syrup and ruin it.) uses salt for cooking. 4 ounces fresh lemon juice 2. Take very hot water out of the tap and stir Sugar in cocktails brings out in sugar (4 parts sugar to 1 part water) until it 4 ounces fresh lime juice a fruits natural ﬂavors and dissolves. (When you are not boiling it’s okay 4 ounces simple syrup helps to frame the drink. to stir the water.) There are two ways to make 4 cherry blossoms simple syrup: Pour the simple syrup in a clean wine or Pour into a tumbler of ice. Shake well. liqueur bottle. Keep refrigerated when storing for longer periods of time. Strain the liquor into 4 chilled martini glasses and garnish with cherry blossoms.

AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 13 Rolling in the dough à la suédoise!

FLAT BREAD plays an KNÄCKEBRÖD – crisp rye SKRADDARKAKA – “Tailor’s VÖRTBRÖD – Christmas important role in traditional bread. Like most artisanal Scraps” in Swedish, this beer bread Swedish bread culture. bread, crisp bread contains flat round wheel made VÖRTLIMPA – Christmas loaf Over the years, flat bread a large amount of air. In from sweet rye dough is made with light rye flour, specialties have developed the case of unleavened traditionally served with tea molasses, grated orange out of different regions. crisp bread, bubbles are or afternoon delights. peel and a blend of anise & In Bohoslän Archipelago, introduced into the dough TUNNBRÖD – like fennel a remote fishing area, the mechanically. Traditionally, knäckebröd, has been baked families used to bake a crushed ice was mixed into for over two centuries. special kind of round flat the dough, and when it A tradition in the North, bread over an open fire. evaporated during baking, fishermen this flat unleavened bread bubbles formed. HÖNÖKAKA– named after can be either soft like a families the island of Hönö, is a JULLIMPA – Christmas loaf wrap, or dry like a cracker. used to soft flat bread. The hint made with buttermilk, syrup Traditionally made from of sweetness makes it and raisins. barley, the only grain that bake a an instant favorite with could grow in the harsh SAFFRANSBRÖD – Holiday special kind children. northern climate, it is baked bread spiced with saffron. of round with rye and wheat today. KAVRING – Dense, dark A special rolling pin called flat bread Cumin Rye. a kavel with its rows of over an pyramid shaped points is use to create its bubbles. open fire

14 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT BREAD BASKET Our Daily Bröd

When Håkan Swahn opened Aquavit in 1987, artisanal bread in New York was not yet easy to come by. Eli Zabar’s ﬂedgling wholesale bread business, which would change bread culture in the US, was just begining to introduce European-style breads to the American market.

Unable to find anything that came close to the seed and fennel; and of course, the famous crisp hearth-baked delights of his native Sweden, Mr breads! But up to the First World War, 2/3 of the Swahn, made an appointment to see Mr. Zabar, population baked their bread at home. armed with a traditional Swedish 7 grain recipe. Typical of Sweden’s food storage culture, bread After 5 or 6 tries, Swahn approved the loaves and was traditionally baked with a long shelf life Zabar began to bake exclusively for Aquavit, or in mind. Nutritious whole grain rye was baked so Swahn thought. Months later, passing Eli’s slowly into durable dark kavring loaves and Bread, Swahn noticed a huge window display, dried into knäckebröd (crispbread) or rusks packed full of his Swedish 7 grain loaves. Zabar’s (skorpor) that could be stored during the long customers couldn’t get enough of it. “If only I winter months. had a nickel for every loaf sold...” laughs Swahn. New Yorkers had discovered the taste of real In rural areas, farms were equipped with baking rustic Swedish bröd. houses, which were usually timbered cottages with a wood-fired oven. In villages, especially Compared with its Southern European in the North, a baking house was available for counterpart, the Northern European bread families to rent. Many Swedes remember their culture is rich with tremendous variety in color, grandparents or parents performing the ritual texture and flavor. While Southern breads are of preparation in the wee hours: kneading the often baked with white wheat flour, Northern dough and lighting the fire, which could take loaves are distinctive for their inventive use of up to three hours, so as to start baking at first different grains. Dark fragrant ryes, distinctive light. Equally unforgettable: the first taste of sour dough, and whole and mixed grain loaves the freshly baked bread with butter melting abound in all shapes imaginable. into it. Family recipes were passed down for Bread baking in Sweden has been raised to a generations. And the tradition continues... true art form. The bread section in a Swedish supermarket is about 5 times as big as any American counterpart. You have kaffebröd, or coffee breads, which are usually sweetened and spiced. You’ll find dense molasses limpa (loaves) studded with fruits and nuts or filled with beets or lingonberries; flatbreads flavored with anise

AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 15 DESSERTS

How Swede It Is

Pastry chef Carina Ahlin’s eyes light up at the mere mention of spring. As a young girl growing up in historical Hedemora in Dalarna Country in the heart of Sweden, she remembers the excitement the season would bring. “It was green again. I could ﬁnally use my bike after the long cold winter - and spring time meant new sneaker time!”

There were also tasty new dishes made at servings of his favorite dessert Hetvagg, or home from the first harvest of the season. semla, in a bowl of hot milk. Ahlin’s strongest seasonal food memory is It comes as no surprise then that at the tender nettle soup. Despite the longer days and age of ten, Ahlin, always a fan of efterrätt, or streaming sunlight, spring in Sweden can dessert, compiled all of her favorite dessert sometimes be chilly. Nettles are weeds that recipes into a book. After restaurant school, it appear as soon as the snows melt and are took working front-of-house for her to realize brewed into a soup that is rich in iron. But it’s where her true passion lay: behind the scenes, the purplish stalks of the rhubarb plant that in the kitchen. She studied under Swedish are, to her, the epitome of spring. “I’m crazy Master Pastry Chef and Confectioner Jan about it. I love to make rabarbarpaj, or rhubarb Hedh, who became her mentor. She went on pie. It’s my favorite!” she grins. to assist him in his classes at the Restaurant As a nation, the Swedes have an enduring love Academy in Orebro, Sweden, where she was of all things sweet. From the seven types of studing. “I still call him when I get into trouble,” home-baked cookies traditionally served at she says. late afternoon coffee klatches (kafferep) to It’s hard to imagine Ahlin ever gets into trouble. the Princess Cake, a raspberry-filled genoise, With sixteen years of experience gained in slathered in whipped cream and covered some of the finest kitchens in Scandinavia, in pale green marzipan, served on special not to mention her stint as pastry chef at the occasions, there’s no shortage of luscious famous bakery Riddarbageriet in Stockholm, Swedish treats! It is said the Swedes prefer to the artful delicacies that parade from Aquavit’s take their grains in the form of pastries, and kitchen are guaranteed not only to satisfy the given the variety of delicately baked goods sweetest tooth, but to make all resistance available, who can blame them? crumble!

Crowning this national fervor is the ultimate In her two years at Aquavit, Ahlin has brought sweet treat: semla. This delicious cardamom- her innovative talent, her carefully honed spiced wheat bun is stuffed with almond patisserie skills and her unique sense of play to paste and whipped cream and enjoyed from the dessert menu, blending unexpected tastes New Year’s to Lent. Legend has it that King and textures in surprising ways while paying Adolf Fredrik died in 1771 after consuming 14 homage to the sweets of her homeland.

1616 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT FAVORITE DESSERT SPOT: FOR EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES: WD-50. 50 Clinton St. “I love their playfulness New York Cake and Bake Supply. 22nd St. and inventiveness!” beween 5th and 6th. “I get Valrhona chocolate from them in great big chunks.” FAVORITE UTENSILS: A good knife and a rubber spatula. CHEF’S TIP: “Always taste! Don’t get too preoccupied with MOST VERSATILE INGREDIENT: the recipe. If your cream is turning to butter, Ginger use your common sense. I never follow a recipe blindly.”

Alongside the more traditional Swedish flower perhaps, and think: I must use that desserts like rice pudding and berry pies, she color in a dessert.” Recently, a bowl of tangy borrows freely from different dessert cultures gazpacho soup she was enjoying inspired her to create the spectacular nightly pageant that to create a masterful sweet sorbet gazpacho. leaves her kitchen: licorice flavored crème Ahlin is a big fan of dessert soups, which brulee, almond-olive cake served with rosehip though quite common in Sweden, are still sorbet and yogurt, apple sorbet with fennel growing in popularity with New York diners. cream and basil jelly, and of course, Aquavit’s “My all-time favorite dessert as a kid was signature dessert, the Arctic Circle. Rosehip soup,” she recalls. Sold in powder form What makes this goat cheese parfait so in Swedish grocery stores, this soup, bright popular? Says Ahlin, “I think it’s the contrasting orange in color, has a strong sour flavor and textures. And the unusual flavor of the goat is packed with Vitamin C. In fact, Vikings used cheese parfait. It’s not as strong as a piece of rosehips to stave off scurvy. “Recently I put a chevre; it’s a careful balance of sweet and sour, made-from-scratch version on the menu, and I perfectly topped with blueberry sorbet.” was amazed how many people were reminded of their childhood!” She has also won acclaim for her inventive dessert cheese plates. She paired the triple This season, keep an eye out for the rhubarb crème Pierre Robert with a roasted pear soup, spiced with cardamom and served with and bacon caramel, a startling memorable a pistachio ice cream. In the summer, try combination of salty, smoky, sweet and crunchy. her chilled plum soup served with a minted buttermilk sorbet and a spiced sweet bun. With Manchego, she serves chocolate cream and orange sorbet; with the bold Spanish blue What is she concocting in celebration of Valdeon, a spicy glogg (mulled wine) sorbet spring? “There’ll be more rhubarb on the and date bread. spring menu to look out for,” she smiles, mysteriously. Something tells us it won’t be Inspiration for the soft-spoken patissiere just any traditional rhubarb pie, but a Carlina is everywhere: she samples fare at other Ahlin creation: a truly inspired spin on a classic restaurants, visits museums and art dessert! galleries, and shops or pours over cookbooks. “I am lucky that way. I can see a color, a yellow

AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 1717 Publisher HAUTE NOTES MICHAEL GOLDMAN Wanna neck? This is the season for new beginnings, new products, new growth and new adventures. Editor-in-Chief We have a few favorites this season and would love to take this opportunity to share them PAMELA JOUAN with you. Enjoy. Something like that for a little bit of an introduction and maybe something Design Director like this. We at Haute Life Press have the wonderful luck of being on the forefront of new JANA POTASHNIK discoveries in food and wine, style, and travel. Every season we pick our favorites to give you BAIRDesign, Inc. an opportunity to try for your self. Managing Editor STEPHANE HENRION

Assistant Editor CHRISTIAN KAPPNER

Senior Copy Editor JENNIFER MURPHY

Copy Editor NORMA SOLOMON

Contributing Writers GABRIEL ASHER JEAN-PHILIPPE DOSETTO BARBARA RUBIN

Photo Director CHARLES HARRIS

Advertising Sales Director ROBERT BASINGER (718) 858.1187

CHAMPAGNE PAUL GOERG CHAMPAGNE PAUL GOERG CHAMPAGNE PAUL GOERG Marketing Director BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT KATHRYN PAYNE

The House of Paul Goerg The House of Paul Goerg The House of Paul Goerg

makes only wine from makes only wine from makes only wine from Haute Life Press the fi rst pressing of all the fi rst pressing of all the fi rst pressing of all a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. Premier and Grand Cru Premier and Grand Cru Premier and Grand Cru 321 Dean Street vineyards. This Blanc de vineyards. This Blanc de vineyards. This Blanc de Suite 1 Brooklyn, NY 11217 Blancs shows off a brilliant Blancs shows off a brilliant Blancs shows off a brilliant golden color with a nose golden color with a nose golden color with a nose www.hautelifepress.com that is deep with aromas that is deep with aromas that is deep with aromas [email protected] of orange blossom, brioche, of orange blossom, brioche, of orange blossom, brioche, Subscription Inquiries butter, sweet spices butter, sweet spices butter, sweet spices (718) 858.1187

and ripe fruits The fl oral and ripe fruits The fl oral and ripe fruits The fl oral [email protected] aspect of this Blanc de aspect of this Blanc de aspect of this Blanc de or visit www.hautelifepress.com Blancs Brut makes it the Blancs Brut makes it the Blancs Brut makes it the Photography: Aquavit, Stockholm perfect accompaniment perfect accompaniment perfect accompaniment Visitors Board, Charles Harris to celebrate spring, and to celebrate spring, and to celebrate spring, and Printed and bound in the U.S.A especially Mother’s Day. especially Mother’s Day. especially Mother’s Day. HauteLifePress makes every effort to insure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.

18 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT Wanna neck?

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AGENCY#: 10007460 MECHANICAL

JOB: SAB_07460-53_pass00 CLIENT: Saab Regional WO: TYP-2 PO#: PUB: Haute Life Press PUBDATE: May 07 C AD: C Baker CW: PM: J Wong x8654 APM: M Jace x8254 AE: L Weinrich LPI: 133 GALLEY#: 1 AGENCY#: 10007460 TRIM: 8.25 x 10.875" BLEED: 8.5 x 11.125" SAFETY: 7 x 10" DATE: 3/21/07 - 4:15 PM CREATED: 3/21/07 - 12:48 PM OPERATOR: g rivas COLORSPACE: SWOP06 CREATED BY: JS PRINTED: 3/21/07 - 4:15 PM PRINT SCALE: 100% M DOC PATH: SAAB:SAAB_Jobs:NATIONAL:SAB_07000s:SAB_07460:SAB_07460-53_pass00 FONTS: Gill Sans for Saab, Gill Sans for Saab Bold, TradeGothic Bold Y IMAGES: NY-04.eps @ 100%, OnStar_byGM3D_4cKO.eps @ 31.3%*, BFJ_KOTag_w3D_PRINT-Llg.eps @ 17.1%, 077xNDO_v4_DRGB.tif @ 40%, Grey_Bars_DRGB.tif @ 100% COLORS: 60/60/40/100* DMAX: 300 K

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