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aquavit spring 2007 MEET JOHAN SVENSSON • SPRING FEVER IN STOCKHOLM • A NEW TWIST ON AN OLD SPIRIT • PASTRIES, SWEDE PASTRIES FW5305_Borrome_8.25x10.875_StarRating_f 11/13/06 5:20 PM Page 1 Add a star to your rating. Because every ingredient is crucial when it comes to great dishes, top chefs have been adding FIJI Water to the kitchens of their restaurants. Since FIJI comes from an unspoiled, virgin ecosystem, and is drawn from a preserved and protected aquifer, it has a smooth taste and soft feel that is simply unparalleled. Which naturally makes it a perfect starting ingredient. Natural Artesian Water www.fijiwater.com 1.888.426.3454 © 2006 FIJI Water Company LLC. All rights reserved. Job Number: FW5305 Project: Borromeo / Star Rating Trim: 8.25" x 10.875" Live: 7.875" x 10.375" None Date: 11/13/06 Round: 01 Pubs/Insert/ColorSpec: 4 color TRIM, LIVE, BLEED LINES DO NOT PRINT PRINTOUT IS 100% Dear Friends, This year marks the 20th Anniversary of Aquavit. Back then, Aquavit was the first Scandinavian restaurant to open in New York in over 25 years and the only modern Scandinavian restaurant in the US. Despite the odds, the public and the press were very kind and we became an instant hit on West 54th street. Aquavit has always been a real trailblazer on the Manhattan dining scene. Farmed Atlantic salmon was relatively new to the market when we opened and yet we always offered at least three salmon entrees in addition to gravlax and smoked salmon. We flavored vodkas 15 different ways, displaying them proudly on our bar, and our guests went through hundreds of bottles every night. We were also crazy enough to have two distinct dining rooms with seperate menus: a casual home cooking café and a formal dining room. It was a confusing idea – according to most industry insiders – but provided an appreciated option for our diners. The two-room concept is still very much a part of who we are today and how we approach hospitality. Many restaurants have since adopted the same idea. In the past twenty years, we’ve had so many memorable moments, from our glorious 5 star reviews and Marcus Samuelsson’s Best Chef honors, to making it into the Fine Dining Hall of Fame (a first for a Swedish restaurant). We have served many legends, notably the late Greta Garbo, and we proudly host the royal families of Scandinavia whenever they are in NY. There are many more proud Aquavit milestones but our plans for the future are even more exciting. Now that our new home on 55th street feels comfortably broken-in, we will reach back to our Swedish roots in a few months and open Aquavit Stockholm in the brand new 5-star Clarion Sign in downtown Stockholm. Our passion for bread has led us to start a Northern European bakery, serving sandwiches, salads and pastries. AQ Kafe opens at the end of the summer at three Manhattan locations, with baked delicacies from Vienna to Stockholm for you to savor. We proudly welcome you to the premier issue of Aquavit Magazine. In these pages, we take you behind the scenes of our daily pursuit for excellence. You’ll find a veritable smorgasbord of features, interviews and recipes to enrich your knowledge of our cultural heritage and your enjoyment of our food. Skal! Håkan Swahn Owner Aquavit Restaurant AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 3 4 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT MEET JOHAN SVENSSON Ever since Marcus Samuelsson rocketed to the kind of super stardom some chefs work for decades to achieve and even then only dream of, Aquavit has become a most desirable destination for young Swedish chefs. The restaurant has always been a springboard 11 girls and me!” Something told him he wanted for launching remarkable careers. The sense of to cook. Svensson certainly paid his dues. He national pride associated with working here is a worked his way up from dishwasher and busboy testament to Aquavit’s cutting edge cuisine and on a canal boat, and barbecuing reindeer in a to its iconic status as a Scandinavian cultural teepee at a conference hotel in the North, to institution. sous chef at a ski resort before applying for the Aquavit apprenticeship. Blazing a trail to stardom in the culinary world, Aquavit’s newly appointed Executive Chef, After returning to Aquavit, Johan spent a year Johan Svensson, is under the mandate of his under Chef Samuelsson’s guidance mastering mentor Samuelsson. “Johan deals with the day- every station in the kitchen. Then he accepted a to-day demands of the Aquavit kitchen,” explains position as line cook at Bond Street NY, which led Samuelsson. “It’s not easy to find the right person him to Nobu, London. He returned to Bond Street to take over the helm. But Johan has proved NY as a sous chef. He was made executive sous himself the perfect choice. He has the talent to chef at Town before accepting the position of be great!” The two men have had a long and executive chef at Samuelsson’s Japanese fusion restaurant Riingo. Executive chef at Aquavit is fruitful association. his most challenging position to date. “It’s really In 1997, Svensson, a young man with culinary two kitchens in one: the restaurant and the café. aspirations, wrote a letter to Samuelsson I run a quiet, disciplined kitchen. It must be a very requesting an apprenticeship at Aquavit. After focused environment.” Samuelsson agrees: “It a three-week stint in the world-renowned can get intense which is why it’s so important the kitchen, he returned to Sweden inspired by his team fit well together.” mentor’s unique food philosophy, creativity and The chefs have a lot in common. Both men culinary skills. When Samuelsson called a few attended the Culinary Institute in Göteborg. months later to invite him back, he leapt at the Both apprenticed at Aquavit – Samuelsson for chance. “It’s not every day New York calls!” laughs 8 months before accepting a position in France. Svensson. Both returned shortly after leaving, Samuelsson The youngest of four boys, Johan studied to cook under the late Jan Sendel. And both home economics because there was no math have found New York to be the perfect place for requirement. “There were 12 of us in the program, their culinary talents to bloom. AQUAVIT • SPRING 2007 5 Deeply inspired by seasonality, the spring IN HIS REFRIGERATOR: reminds Svensson of his idyllic childhood Fresca diet soda. English muffins and eggs, in the tiny village of Torsö, an island in Lake to make brunch for his wife. Vanern. “Spring meant the fishing nets that my FAVORITE HOME-COOKED MEAL: grandfather had been putting together over His mom’s fried pork with onion gravy and the winter were finally going to see the water. peeled potatoes. “It’s messy but I insist she It was a very happy time, lots of running around makes it for me when ever I go home!” in puddles of water!” CHEF’S TIP: Of the new produce the season yields, Svensson Use low sodium soy sauce instead of salt. relishes the appearance of spring onions, parsley and chives. “I also look forward to the BEVERAGE OF CHOICE: wild ramps and morels, which appear in March.” A Mimosa. “I love Champagne!” His recommendations to Aquavit diners: the PERFECT END TO A MEAL: salmon dish with beef cheeks and the beer- A sparkling sake and cheese. “There’s a triple braised short ribs. In the café, Svensson suggests cream goat cheese that clogs your arteries like the snapper and the pork chop. nothing else!” Svensson finds his day off essential for IN SWEDEN: rejuvenating his creativity. “When you’re creating Visit the Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi, go summer menus you sometimes need a little distance to skiing in Riksgransen, which is close to the gain a broader perspective.” On a perfect spring Norwegian border, or cross country skiing day, Johan can be found biking in Battery Park. up to Kebnekaise, the highest mountain in Like most Swedes, he confesses that talking Sweden. about his dreams makes him feel shy. One day IN NEW YORK: he’d like to own a restaurant but for right now Svensson loves the energy of the city. “I the pride associated with working at Aquavit usually get restless in one place – but that is what makes him tick. “It’s an honor to work hasn’t happened here yet,” he muses, “because at the most famous Scandinavian restaurant everything’s constantly changing every day.” outside of Scandinavia,” he beams. 6 SPRING 2007 • AQUAVIT © 2006 Nestlé Waters North America Inc. At finer restaurants in Paris, London, New York and of course, Milan. 7 Ad No.: SAN-06-2 Job No.: PEGPER.06016.K.011 Ad Title: Classic Chic This advertisement prepared by: Ogilvy & Mather To appear in: Chicago, Sunset, Cooking Light, Bon Appetit, Food & WIne, Food & Drink, Flavours, Le Guide Cuisine, Standard Pubs Size: P4CB Color: CMYK Scale: 1:1 Gutter: None Bleed: 9.125 in x 11.5 in Trim/Live: 8 in x 10.5 in Type Safety: 7 in x 10 in Art Director: C. Dronsfi eld Copywriter: None Account Exec: M. Fein Print Producer: J. Gregorio Traffi c: B. Ratzer Engraver: Extreme GSI No.: PEG_PER_06016K_D_1D1.indd 73579 7/28/06 02 133 PEG_PER_06016K_D_1D1.INDD TRAVEL Spring Fever in Stockholm Founded in 1252, this medieval port city has evolved into the most radiant capital city in Scandinavia. Aptly known as Beauty on Water, its 14 islands floating on Lake Malaren and the Baltic Sea are home to more than a million people.