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VIP TICKETS to Climb ‘99 Climb ‘99 Special WinWin VIP TICKETS to Climb ‘99 After Everest Winter Skills The SPA: What does it stand for? Issue 16 - Winter 1999 - £2.00 Free to all BMC Members Summit covernew2.p65 1 11/5/99, 9:10 AM FOREWORD ne of the views expressed after the recent tragic train crash at Ladbrooke Grove is that public safety should Onot be left in the hands of profit based bodies. Public perceptions of acceptable risk is a fascinating area. When the danger to public health from BSE first came to light the Minister at the time John Gummer told the public that British meat was safe. Then later the current Government decided that because there was even an extremely small risk from BSE that the sale of beef on the bone should be made illegal. It seems hard to imagine that risk can be totally removed from any aspect of life (even the dinner plate) and there is the emotive issue of the cost of mini- mising risks. So where do we draw the line for acceptable risk? Perhaps the best we can aim for is to know what the risks are and make an informed decision as to whether we want to accept those risks. This becomes difficult when you have to rely on other bodies such as an industry regulator to gauge if proper risk assessments and appropriate responses are being carried out. It is an obvious and important responsibility for national sports bodies to give guidance on good practice and safety. However, as the British Boxing Board of Control discovered in the recent Michael Watson case, a national body can be sued for negligence if a participant is injured following their advice or guidance. Hence, for the BMC risk and responsibility is always on the agenda and this issue of Summit looks at a number of training and leader qualification issues. It also seems that perception of risk is an important factor in the drafting of the proposed access legisla- tion which it is now widely anticipated will be included in the next session of Parliament (see Summit News). "common sense commercial principles" Like other national bodies for sport the BMC provides mem- bership services to fund essential work such as access and con- servation and other valuable development programmes. To main- tain and increase support for the various good causes the BMC works to ensure that its services are always responding to mem- bers’ needs and represent best value (look out for the BMC’s membership questionnaire next year). To maximise resources for development work a streamlined cost effective structure for Roger being balanced in Pakistan trading activities is essential and recently there have been discus- Photo: Clyma sions with the Mountaineering Council of Scotland and Moun- taineering Council of Ireland about ways of working more closely start now to allow adequate consultation to ensure the plan is together. You would not expect to go to different check-outs at based on the needs of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers. your local supermarket to make separate payments for different types of goods (it would probably send you off your trolley) "important initiatives" and you would be surprised if ASDA, Kwik Save or any other As the end of the year approaches the BMC is looking forward nation-wide retailer had different logos and conflicting advertis- to two important initiatives. On 3 to 5 December the Entre- ing campaigns around the UK. It is easy to see the common Prises UIAA World Championship and Climb ’99 will be a di- sense commercial principles that apply; all we need do is to agree verse event and a great reminder of the fun and challenge of our if we want to apply these principles to the national bodies for activities and the need for a responsible approach to risk. Also, mountaineering. many affiliated clubs are now taking advantage of the ‘Member- "representation and accountability" ship 2000’ initiative thus increasing direct circulation of Summit now already to over 32,000 members. Before the end of Decem- However, while it makes commercial sense to have a one stop ber we expect total membership to cross the 50,000 mark for the shop approach to membership, registrations and services the first time. As membership and direct circulation of Summit grows same does not apply to local representation and accountability. next year the BMC will continue to work as effectively as pos- In a four nation United Kingdom, some sports bodies already sible to promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and moun- have a UK based identity founded on home nation bodies, and taineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. Hopefully we others are looking for a more unified federal structure. For exam- can also find more beneficial ways to work together with the ple the British Canoe Union is creating an English Canoe Asso- other mountaineering bodies, while also increasing communica- ciation so that the BCU becomes an integrated body of four tion and local accountability. home nations; and the British Orienteering Federation is looking at a new four nation structure for BOF. The BMC’s operational See you at Climb '99? plan for 2000 again highlights the need for a specialist officer to be based in Wales and in the New Year the question of improving the national profile of the BMC’s committees in England and Wales will be addressed. Also in the New Year the BMC will be starting to draft its development plan for 2002 to 2005 and inviting contributions and comments from members. Plans for 2002 and beyond may seem a long way off but work needs to General Secretary BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 16 1 22770_Summit16.p65 1 11/5/99, 12:57 PM 16 CONTENTS Welcome to issue 16 of W 4 News Alpine Lectures Access Legislation, Troll BICC, AGM, Alpine Lectures, Snowdonia Transport. Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the interests of 8 Access News climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers Hen Cloud bolts, Corby and the freedom to enjoy their activities. Crag, Cairngorm furnicular The primary work of the BMC is to: goes ahead. 4 Climb99 Buildup continues Negotiate access improve- ments and promote cliff and mountain conservation. Cairngorm rail disaster 26 Arena Promote and advise on good All the Area news practice, facilities, training and and meetings. equipment. Support events and specialist programmes including youth 28 Briefing and excellence. All the upcoming Provide services and informa- events and tion for members. publications. BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, 30 Forum Manchester M20 2BB SPA-What does Tel: 0161 445 4747 it stand for. REGULARS Fax: 0161 445 4500 e-mail: [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk 10 The way forward Winter skills Steve Lond on finding your EDITORIAL way on the winter moun- Contributions for Summit should be tains. sent to Andy Macnae at the above address or [email protected]. 15 Freshers Fare Every care is taken of materials sent The 1999 Student Seminar. for publication, however these are sub- mitted at the senders’ risk. 16 Expeditions of '99 PUBLISHING All the BMC approved Gill Wootton expeditions. Display Advertising Marilyn Adelmann & Fraser 18 Awaiting the 24 Qualification Ingham window of Jigsaw Classified opportunity The mysteries of instructor Paula Taylor & Sarah Lorraine Nicholson with qualifications revealed. Lambert blind trekkers in India. Tel: 01536 525550 40 Convilles Fax: 01536 522621 20 The big event Anne Arran profiles Michael Conville and Alex Williams PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY The Entre-Prises UIAA world championship and climb '99. describes a course. Greenshires Publishing Telford Way, Kettering 43 After Everest Northants, NN16 8UN Huber at Climb99 Tel: 01536 525550 FEATURES Part 2 of a pictorial history of British Mountaineering Neither the BMC nor GreenShires Publishing accept since 1953. responsibility for information supplied in adverts. Readers are advised to take reasonable care when responding to adverts. 47 Last thoughts Alex Messenger is Stoned Again. 26,139 – 1/7/98 - 30/6/99 RISK & RESPONSIBILITY Readers of Summit are reminded that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities Win VIP Tickets to Climb '99 and the Entre-Prises with a danger of personal injury or death. Partici- pants in these activities should be aware of and UIAA World Championship. See page 22. accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. The BMC publishes a wide range of safety and good practice advice and Cover: Cerro Kishtwar, India. One of the many peaks to be first climbed by a provides training opportunities for members. BMC/MEF supported expedition, see page 43 for more. Photo: MacNae. 22770_Summit16.p65 2 11/5/99, 12:58 PM LETTERS Numbers please rum would therefore be involved in every Leader correction stage of drafting the new plan. Dear Summit, Dear Summit, In order to ensure that debate is truly The Autumn issue of ‘Summit’ (no. 15) Summit 15 has an MEF Special article open and not unfairly guided or dominated makes two references to the importance and on page 28 it states that Mr Dennis by the Authority or any other party, it is of checking avalanche warnings. Unfor- Davis was the team leader of 1961 Nutpse proposed (subject to funding) to employ tunately, no contact details for SAIS are South Face (below). This is not correct. an independent facilitator. They would given. There used to be a free-phone The team leader was Mr Joe Walmesby of organise the meetings, set the agenda, draw number that provided detailed and accu- Stockport who put a great deal of effort up ground rules and deal with all proce- rate information (in stark contrast to the into organising and leading the expedition.
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