Climb99 Special Be there 3-5 December Hillwalkers A-Z Gear, boots, winter After Everest Five decades of British Expeds. Technical Extra Conference, standards, PPE ACCESSACCESS NEWSNEWS WINWIN AA HIGHLANDHIGHLAND WEEKENDWEEKEND ALPINEALPINE BOLTSBOLTS KENYAKENYA ISSUE 15 AUTUMN '99 gripped?gripped? FREE TO ALL BMC MEMBERS £2.00 21821_Summit_15_Cover.p65 1 9/13/99, 9:40 AM FOREWORD.. SUMMITS OF DIVERSITY ust over six years ago the BMC’s Mountaineering Festival at the Buxton Opera House had the theme Jof Freedom. There was a strong line up of high- profile speakers, an exhibition, and an indoor bouldering league team challenge. Although not a sell-out, Buxton ‘93 was an enjoyable and memorable event. The event programme cover was a cartoon based on Delacroix’s famous painting of ‘Liberty guiding the people’ – only the BMC version had mountaineering luminaries at the barri- cade defending freedom of access. The Festival pro- gramme introduction talked about “the freedom to enjoy our cliffs and mountain environment” which it said “seem(ed) to be increasingly under threat”. As we come to the end of the 1990’s things have changed. It still appears to be universally accepted that access is the most important part of the BMC’s work - without access there is no climbing or hill walking. However, the careful evolution of the BMC’s Access Charter, lobbying of Government and developing partnerships with other relevant bodies, has created significant stepping stones towards improving an individual’s right to responsible freedom of access to the open countryside. Progress has been impressive - although there is still some way to go for the Government to deliver its commitment to improve access for responsible outdoor recreation. No doubt there will be occasions when other bodies will want to exert their freedom in ways that might compromise those of climbers and hill walkers. So, the BMC will still need to be ready at the ‘barricade’ with its most reasoned argu- High on the Aiguille de Tour, Alps ments to protect your freedoms. As well as access to the open countryside the Govern- ment takes the issue of access to sport very seriously. public climbing walls which will include a wide ranging Sport can improve health, build communities, develop development programme. In partnership with the Ackers economies and raise aspirations and personal fulfilment. Trust a new club for able and disabled climbers is being Medal tallies gain headlines and the attention of sponsors, launched, the Pathway Centre is running a leadership pro- but the benefits of participation in active sports like climb- gramme for young women, and with the Birmingham ing and hill walking are very wide ranging and long- Rock Face there will be activities for local schools and lasting. The Government has also recognised that, just as black and Asian community groups. Through this inclu- real and perceived barriers have stood in the way of ac- sive programme at a major celebration of mountaineering, cess to the open countryside, not all sections of society the BMC will be demonstrating its commitment to access find that all sports are accessible options for them, and and diversity, while reinforcing the nature of climbing hence, they feel excluded. The previous Minister for and hill walking being freedom sports based on personal Sport Tony Banks was absolutely clear in stating that “No responsibility and self-reliance. sport will receive so much as a penny of National Lottery It is because of this commitment to access and freedom money unless it has an equal opportunities policy that that the BMC encourages its members to adopt a positive applies to all genders and ethnic groups. The sports council approach to equal opportunities and the elimination of will monitor compliance with equal opportunities policies discrimination. The BMC values the support of all sec- to make sure that there is no discrimination against women tions of the mountaineering community and welcomes or ethnic minorities”. the opportunity to assist all groups in its work to promote The BMC cannot take on the big issues like social ex- the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers. clusion, but it can provide some support by reinforcing If you think the BMC is falling short of this commitment Government initiatives. As a national body the BMC do not hesitate to let me know. would always want to be operating to high standards of good conduct, but in addition we do have obligations to equal opportunities because we receive public funds. The Don’t miss the event of 1999 at the NIA. See you there? BMC’s commitment to equal opportunities is why Sport England and the Lottery is investing in BMC work on diversity and youth at the UIAA Entre-Prises World Cham- pionship and Climb ’99 being held at the National Indoor Arena in Birmingham on 3 to 5 December. So, in addi- General Secretary tion to the world’s best competition climbers and a diffi- culty and speed wall to match, plus a series of slide shows highlighting landmark expeditions and an exhibition and P.S. Tickets are available on 0121 780 4444 with dis- trade area, the 1999 mountaineering festival also has four counts for early bookings, groups, and families. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 1 21821_Summit15.p65 1 9/10/99, 1:51 PM 15 CONTENTS Welcome to issue 15 of 4 News Climb99 buildup continues, Winter & Alpine Summit is the membership magazine lectures, Junior success, of the British Mountaineering Council. Czechs welcome, Grants The BMC promotes the interests of and awards. climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to: 8 Access News Roaches parking extended, 4 Climb99 Buildup continues Negotiate access improve- Area updates, Stanage Bus ments and promote cliff and report 33 Briefing mountain conservation. All the upcoming Promote and advise on good events and publications. practice, facilities, training and equipment. 34 Forum Support events and specialist Striking the balance; programmes including youth climbers, walkers and the and excellence. military. Provide services and informa- tion for members. 38 Arena All the Area news BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, and meetings. Manchester M20 2BB Tel: 0161 445 4747 34 Striking the Balance Fax: 0161 445 4500 REGULARS e-mail: [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk 10 Cold Cure Simon Hale's top tips for EDITORIAL winter mountaineering. Contributions for Summit should be sent to Andy Macnae at the above 14 Hillwalking A-Z address or [email protected]. of equipment and skills. Every care is taken of materials sent for publication, however these are sub- mitted at the senders’ risk. 16 Competitive Edge BRYCS final, Lakes Area ADVERTISING Youth Meet. Advertisement Manager Gill Wootton 18 Sole Searching Classified David Udberg from Scarpa 10 Cold Cure Paula Taylor takes a closer look at your Tel: 01536 382500 body and sole. Fax: 01536 382501 20 Stresses & 23 E5=mc2 PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY Strains The Science of Climbing by Jonathan Bursnall. GreenShires Publishing of the Technical Committee. Telford Way, Kettering Northants, NN16 8UN 22 Standard 24 Climb99 special Tel: 01536 382500 Practice It's big, and it's coming. Neither the BMC nor GreenShires Publishing accept responsibility for information supplied in adverts. PPE's & CEN made easy. FEATURES 27 After Everest Readers are advised to take reasonable care when responding to adverts. A pictorial history of British Mountaineering since 1953. 32 M2K 26,139 – 1/7/98 - 30/6/99 Membership 2000 scheme. RISK & RESPONSIBILITY Readers of Summit are reminded that 37 Killing Sport climbing, hill walking and mountain- eering are activities with a danger of Alpine bolting update. personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for Cover: Ben Heason flashing 'Grezelda, Grezelda E6 6a, their own actions and involvement. The Pembroke during the summer Czech exchange. BMC publishes a wide range of safety Photo: Carl Ryan and good practice advice and provides training opportunities for members. 27 After Everest 21821_Summit15.p65 2 9/10/99, 1:58 PM LETTERS BMC RELOCATES? on that fragile environment. I want to work NEW EURO DANGER I thought you might like to with, not against, those who are charged I bought two DMM slings the other day. see this photo of your new with conserving the mountains. I was going to stuff them in my pocket and office in Zion National I loved being away from cars for a save a bag, but the large volume of Euro- Park?! Taken whilst I was whole week in the Karwendel Alps, and I instructions, telling me how not to hang on a States road trip this really liked the sense that the Austrian Al- myself or cut the new slings with a knife, June. pine Club was both providing services (and necessitated a carrier. Back home, I dis- beer!) for visitors and helping to minimise posed of the instructions. Unfortunately, Derek Hargreaves their impact. Isn’t this the lead the BMC in the removal process, the mega-staple un- should follow? expectedly filleted my finger and stopped BELLIGERENT me climbing that week. Isabel Jordan This was by far my most dangerous ac- CAR USERS tivity all week. What’s going on? Surely, I have just come back LESS SELFISH VIEWS all staples and instructions must have their from the Alps and settled down with Sum- Stephen Reid is entitled to his view con- own safety instructions and health warn- mit 14. Reading Stephen Reid’s letter made cerning the desirability or otherwise of the ings NOW! Is Europe a bit slow on staple me extremely cross, and both this and the Northern Snowdonia Traffic Management risk? The BMC should act before anyone debate on visitor payback led me to make and Public Transport Scheme, but his as- is seriously harmed.