Climb99 Special Hillwalkers A-Z After Everest Technical Extra

Climb99 Special Be there 3-5 December Hillwalkers A-Z Gear, boots, winter After Everest Five decades of British Expeds. Technical Extra Conference, standards, PPE

ACCESSACCESS NEWSNEWS WINWIN AA HIGHLANDHIGHLAND WEEKENDWEEKEND ALPINEALPINE BOLTSBOLTS KENYAKENYA ISSUE 15 AUTUMN '99 gripped?gripped?

FREE TO ALL BMC MEMBERS £2.00

21821_Summit_15_Cover.p65 1 9/13/99, 9:40 AM

FOREWORD.. SUMMITS OF DIVERSITY

ust over six years ago the BMC’s Mountaineering Festival at the Buxton Opera House had the theme Jof Freedom. There was a strong line up of high- profile speakers, an exhibition, and an indoor bouldering league team challenge. Although not a sell-out, Buxton ‘93 was an enjoyable and memorable event. The event programme cover was a cartoon based on Delacroix’s famous painting of ‘Liberty guiding the people’ – only the BMC version had mountaineering luminaries at the barricade defending freedom of access. The Festival programme introduction talked about “the freedom to enjoy our cliffs and mountain environment” which it said “seem(ed) to be increasingly under threat”. As we come to the end of the 1990’s things have changed. It still appears to be universally accepted that access is the most important part of the BMC’s work - without access there is no climbing or hill walking. However, the careful evolution of the BMC’s Access Charter, lobbying of Government and developing partnerships with other relevant bodies, has created significant stepping stones towards improving an individual’s right to responsible freedom of access to the open countryside. Progress has been impressive - although there is still some way to go for the Government to deliver its commitment to improve access for responsible outdoor recreation. No doubt there will be occasions when other bodies will want to exert their freedom in ways that might compromise those of climbers and hill walkers. So, the BMC will still need to be ready at the ‘barricade’ with its most reasoned argu- High on the Aiguille de Tour, Alps ments to protect your freedoms. As well as access to the open countryside the Govern- ment takes the issue of access to sport very seriously. public climbing walls which will include a wide ranging Sport can improve health, build communities, develop development programme. In partnership with the Ackers economies and raise aspirations and personal fulfilment. Trust a new club for able and disabled climbers is being Medal tallies gain headlines and the attention of sponsors, launched, the Pathway Centre is running a leadership pro- but the benefits of participation in active sports like climb- gramme for young women, and with the Birmingham ing and hill walking are very wide ranging and long- Rock Face there will be activities for local schools and lasting. The Government has also recognised that, just as black and Asian community groups. Through this inclu- real and perceived barriers have stood in the way of ac- sive programme at a major celebration of mountaineering, cess to the open countryside, not all sections of society the BMC will be demonstrating its commitment to access find that all sports are accessible options for them, and and diversity, while reinforcing the nature of climbing hence, they feel excluded. The previous Minister for and hill walking being freedom sports based on personal Sport Tony Banks was absolutely clear in stating that “No responsibility and self-reliance. sport will receive so much as a penny of National Lottery It is because of this commitment to access and freedom money unless it has an equal opportunities policy that that the BMC encourages its members to adopt a positive applies to all genders and ethnic groups. The sports council approach to equal opportunities and the elimination of will monitor compliance with equal opportunities policies discrimination. The BMC values the support of all sec- to make sure that there is no discrimination against women tions of the mountaineering community and welcomes or ethnic minorities”. the opportunity to assist all groups in its work to promote The BMC cannot take on the big issues like social ex- the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers. clusion, but it can provide some support by reinforcing If you think the BMC is falling short of this commitment Government initiatives. As a national body the BMC do not hesitate to let me know. would always want to be operating to high standards of good conduct, but in addition we do have obligations to equal opportunities because we receive public funds. The Don’t miss the event of 1999 at the NIA. See you there? BMC’s commitment to equal opportunities is why Sport England and the Lottery is investing in BMC work on diversity and youth at the UIAA Entre-Prises World Cham- pionship and Climb ’99 being held at the National Indoor Arena in Birmingham on 3 to 5 December. So, in addi- General Secretary tion to the world’s best competition climbers and a difficulty and speed wall to match, plus a series of slide shows highlighting landmark expeditions and an exhibition and P.S. Tickets are available on 0121 780 4444 with dis- trade area, the 1999 mountaineering festival also has four counts for early bookings, groups, and families.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 1

21821_Summit15.p65 1 9/10/99, 1:51 PM 15 CONTENTS Welcome to issue 15 of 4 News Climb99 buildup continues, Winter & Alpine Summit is the membership magazine lectures, Junior success, of the British Mountaineering Council. Czechs welcome, Grants The BMC promotes the interests of and awards. climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to: 8 Access News Roaches parking extended, 4 Climb99 Buildup continues Negotiate access improve- Area updates, Stanage Bus ments and promote cliff and report 33 Briefing mountain conservation. All the upcoming Promote and advise on good events and publications. practice, facilities, training and equipment. 34 Forum Support events and specialist Striking the balance; programmes including youth climbers, walkers and the and excellence. military. Provide services and information for members. 38 Arena All the Area news BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, and meetings. Manchester M20 2BB Tel: 0161 445 4747 34 Striking the Balance Fax: 0161 445 4500 REGULARS e-mail: [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk 10 Cold Cure Simon Hale's top tips for EDITORIAL winter mountaineering. Contributions for Summit should be sent to Andy Macnae at the above 14 Hillwalking A-Z address or [email protected]. of equipment and skills. Every care is taken of materials sent for publication, however these are submitted at the senders’ risk. 16 Competitive Edge BRYCS final, Lakes Area ADVERTISING Youth Meet. Advertisement Manager Gill Wootton 18 Sole Searching Classified David Udberg from Scarpa 10 Cold Cure Paula Taylor takes a closer look at your Tel: 01536 382500 body and sole. Fax: 01536 382501 20 Stresses & 23 E5=mc2 PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY Strains The Science of Climbing by Jonathan Bursnall. GreenShires Publishing of the Technical Committee. Telford Way, Kettering Northants, NN16 8UN 22 Standard 24 Climb99 special Tel: 01536 382500 Practice It's big, and it's coming. Neither the BMC nor GreenShires Publishing accept responsibility for information supplied in adverts. PPE's & CEN made easy. FEATURES 27 After Everest Readers are advised to take reasonable care when responding to adverts. A pictorial history of British Mountaineering since 1953. 32 M2K 26,139 – 1/7/98 - 30/6/99 Membership 2000 scheme. RISK & RESPONSIBILITY Readers of Summit are reminded that 37 Killing Sport climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of Alpine bolting update. personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for Cover: Ben Heason flashing 'Grezelda, Grezelda E6 6a, their own actions and involvement. The Pembroke during the summer Czech exchange. BMC publishes a wide range of safety Photo: Carl Ryan and good practice advice and provides training opportunities for members. 27 After Everest

21821_Summit15.p65 2 9/10/99, 1:58 PM LETTERS

BMC RELOCATES? on that fragile environment. I want to work NEW EURO DANGER I thought you might like to with, not against, those who are charged I bought two DMM slings the other day. see this photo of your new with conserving the mountains. I was going to stuff them in my pocket and office in Zion National I loved being away from cars for a save a bag, but the large volume of Euro- Park?! Taken whilst I was whole week in the Karwendel Alps, and I instructions, telling me how not to hang on a States road trip this really liked the sense that the Austrian Al- myself or cut the new slings with a knife, June. pine Club was both providing services (and necessitated a carrier. Back home, I dis- beer!) for visitors and helping to minimise posed of the instructions. Unfortunately, Derek Hargreaves their impact. Isn’t this the lead the BMC in the removal process, the mega-staple un- should follow? expectedly filleted my finger and stopped BELLIGERENT me climbing that week. Isabel Jordan This was by far my most dangerous ac- CAR USERS tivity all week. What’s going on? Surely, I have just come back LESS SELFISH VIEWS all staples and instructions must have their from the Alps and settled down with Sum- Stephen Reid is entitled to his view con- own safety instructions and health warn- mit 14. Reading Stephen Reid’s letter made cerning the desirability or otherwise of the ings NOW! Is Europe a bit slow on staple me extremely cross, and both this and the Northern Snowdonia Traffic Management risk? The BMC should act before anyone debate on visitor payback led me to make and Public Transport Scheme, but his as- is seriously harmed. comparisons with recent experience. sertion that “your private car is not funded How do belligerent car users like Stephen by the state so other taxpayers do not have David Bodicott manage when they go to the Alps or other to subsidise it” cannot go unchallenged. major ranges? In the Karwendel area, only When all the costs of private car use are AMS: LOWER THE LIMIT local residents and staff are allowed to take taken into account, studies have shown that With reference to the article “Altitude” in their vehicles up the (unsurfaced) roads. use of the private car is in fact heavily sub- Summit 13 p18-19, I note that the article Further off the beaten track there are no sidised by taxpayers. These costs include states that AMS becomes likely at 3500m roads at all so the “right to drive” becomes the direct costs of road construction, the or higher. Whilst this may be the case I feel irrelevant. I don’t recall hearing walkers, costs of the thousands of car-related acci- it is important that readers realise that AMS climbers and others complaining at having dents and deaths that fall on the National can, and has, been observed at consider- to carry their kit to the foot of their chosen Health Service, and the costs to the public ably lower altitiudes. Thus whilst I appre- mountains in the Alps, Pyrenees, the sector of providing secure car parking fa- ciate that no precise figure can be placed on Picos…it doen’t seem to disenfranchise cilities. the height above which AMS occurs, and mountaineers there. These costs in total heavily outweigh the with considerable intra and inter personal On vistor payback, the Austrian Alpine taxes on cars and fuel obtained from car us- variation, it should be noted that AMS has Club itself levies a 1DM fee on each per- ers. There is also a wider range of costs, been observed at altitudes as low as 2500m. son using the huts in the northern often falling on the vulnerable and least well- This figure has considerable evidence base Karwendel, this goes on path maintenance off members of society, that arise from the and should be brought to the attention of and other functions of immediate benefit use of the private car. These include the many climbers and walkers allowing the appro- both to the mountain environment and to respiratory diseases linked to car-borne pol- priate action to be taken with the appropri- the visitor. I had no qualm about making a lution, the loss of road space in residential ate benefit. compulsory contribution to this; and in areas, creating many dangers for children, British National Parks the proposals are the nuisance associated with the noise of traf- Dr DM Mitchell, for voluntary contributions only. fic, and the damage to buildings associated Senior House Officer Clinical Oncology. Can the mountaineering community in with traffic–related vibrations. this country really oppose with a clear con- Finally there are a whole range of envi- For detailed information on AMS and science the idea of giving people an oppor- ronmental costs associated with car use. The other mountain medical issues contact the tunity, a choice, to give back a small contri- most obvious are the contribution to carbon BMC information service or check out the bution for the management of the resource dioxide emissions and associated impacts Mountain Medical Data sheets on the BMC they enjoy? How selfish and of global warming, the cocktail of pollut- website. narrowminded can we be? I believe whole- ants that produce low-level ozone, and more heartedly that access, free of charge to open directly the massive number of wildlife country is a common right. But it is not a deaths caused by cars. Stephen Reid needs right which we can exercise without ac- to adopt a more realistic and less selfish cepting our responsibilites. view concerning the impacts that the use of My enjoyment of walking and climbing private cars has on society. is largely because of the wonderful environment in which I roam, and I accept that Stephen Smith just being there I am adding to the pressure

21821_Summit15.p65 3 9/10/99, 3:23 PM NEWS Climb99 gathers momentum - Alpine lectures - Czechs w The UIAA Entre-Prises World Championships and Climb 99 3rd-5th December 1999 Climb99 erest 1953 to modern extreme expeditions. A weekend long celebration of climbing On Sunday the line up turns to rock. Paul and mountaineering will take place under Pritchard will be reading from his new book the same roof with the Climb 99 exhibition. and Seb Grieve will be waxing lyrical about Hard Grit. For a full speakers line up see World Rock Tour & Expedition page 33. Showcase Broaden your horizons and be inspired Trade Show by some of the best speakers in the world Take time out to see the latest clothing of climbing and mountaineering. From and equipment on offer from a range of George Band and Doug Scott, to Seb well known manufacturers and retailers. Grieve and Paul Pritchard, the line up of New and discount products offer brows- over 20 top rock climbers and mountain- ing and bargain hunting opportunities for eers will present lectures from Friday to every gear addict.

Ian Vickers, World Cup 1997. Development Photo: Entre-Prises Following the BMC Equal opportunity statement the BMC is involved in some The build up to the weekend celebration exciting projects in the Birmingham area of climbing and mountaineering activities involving ethnic and cultural diversity. for all the family continues. The full pro- They will be based around the Ackers cen- gramme includes an international climb- tre, Rockface and Pathway. Coming soon ing competition, lectures, trade show and are details of celebrities participating in climbing walls for the public, all taking Climb 99. place at the National Indoor Arena in Bir- mingham. Tickets are now on sale, so Come and try it walls don’t delay, if you want attend the week- Get to grips with the indoor climbing ex- end, or just a single day phone the Box perience on one of the four Entre-Prises come Office on 0121 780 4444. and try it walls, or take up the challenge of the awesome new free standing boulder. The UIAA Entre-Prises There will be a chance to try your hand at World Championships interestingly set boulder problems and re- The World Championships are the pin- ceive performance coaching from one of our nacle of the competition climbing calen- Become inspired with the Expedition experts or try to reach the top of the 'first Showcase dar. This is the first time the World Cham- steps' wall. The adventure zone makes a re- pionships have ever been held in Britain, Sunday. The Friday series includes Alan ally fun days activity for the family with and they will include both difficulty and Hinkes who will be describing his crecent speed trials, blind fold climbing, abseiling spectacular speed rounds. Come and watch Makulu ascent, and Saturday brings the and technique workshops supervised by over 150 of the best competition climbers Mount Everest Foundation (MEF) and National Mountain Centre, Plas y Brenin in the world pitted against the most im- BMC full day of lectures celebrating five instructors and members of AMI. Look out pressive wall yet seen in the UK, giving decades of mountaineering to the greater for the gripped? information stand and meet uncompromising climbing of the highest ranges. Hosted by Chris Bonington, the members of the British senior and junior standard. day will span landmark ascents from Ev- Competition Climbing Teams.

See page 24 for a Climb 99 special Paul Nunn Memorial Sherpa Spends Night on top of the World! Lecture - 6th October. Babu Chiri Sherpa spent 21.5 Stephen Venables and Seb Grieve will hours on the summit of Everest, a be this years contrasting double act at the remarkable mountaineering and 4th Paul Nunn Memorial lecture.Venables medical feat. Babu, having been to will present a special lecture on explora- the Summit many times as a sherpa tory climbing throughout the world, whilst wanted to be the first to spend the Seb will concentrate on the famous Hard night. His tiny two pole Mountain Grit nearer to home. Plus prize draw, book Hardware tent was customised with & video sales, photographic exhibition, a hole in the floor, so he could tie in various stands and a bar. Be there for directly to the mountain in case of 7.00pm, Pennine Lecture Theatre, Shef- extreme weather. Wind speeds es- field Hallam University. Tickets £6.00 / timated at 55mph drove two other £4.00 concessions. All proceeds to the down, but Babu felt comfortable, Memorial Fund, tickets from Rita Vyse, yet "quite wild and remote" bivving Room with a view: Babu's tent on the top of Everest. Sheffield Hallam Uni. Tel: 0114 225 2050. on top of the world.....really? Photo: Mountain Hardware

44 New performance training handbook: See page 33 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

21821_Summit15.p65 4 9/10/99, 2:03 PM Czechs welcome - Junior success - Rockfall - High Sherpa

The BMC Winter The BMC Alpine gripped? Top Experience Lectures . Experience Lectures Performance Meet In partnership with Lowe Alpine in partnership with Cotswold Outdoor This series of interactive lectures with This is your opportunity to learn more Andy Perkins and Louise Thomas will about Alpine skills with mountain Guide take you to more remote venues as well Steve Long and our other experienced lec- as covering some easier days objectives. turers. You will come away aware of the They are ideal for those who wish to gain main Alpine hazards, and with the oppor- more winter skills and have the chance to tunity to have seen many of the classic Al- discuss equipment and this seasons plans pine routes. The lecturers will be giving with the lecturers in the interval and bar top tips on Alpine preparation, equipment afterwards. See page 11 for venue and and how to achieve your objectives. Plus ticket details. Cotswold staff will be on hand to offer excellent advice on equipment and special deals will be available at the Cotswold shops. There will also be information available on how to link in with other events in the BMC's Training programme for 2000.

London: Feb 7th. UCL, Edward Lewis Adam Peters enjoying the Top Theatre, Windeyer Building, 46 Cleveland Performance Meet at Plas y Brenin. Street, London The meet held at Plas y Brenin on 18- Birmingham: Feb 8th. Birmingham Uni- 20th June attracted 60 young gripped? versity Guild of Students, Council Cham- members from all over the country, for bers, Edgbaston Park Road, Birmingham seminars, training, and of course climbing Nottingham: Feb 9th. Nottingham Uni- with Plas Y Brenin instructors. There was versity Lecture Theatre a lively atmosphere all weekend with par- Glasgow: Feb 15th. Cotswold Outdoor, ticipants experience ranging from top-rop- Glasgow ing indoors to leading E5! Supported by Harrogate: Feb 16. Cotswold Outdoor, the Andy Fanshawe Memorial Trust and Harrogate the MTT, the meet was a great success, and is planned again next year. British Junior Success! Congratulations to Adam Dewhurst, for One of our Buttresses is coming 2nd, and Tom Lawrence for com- Get ready for the Alps with the BMC ing 7th, in the European Youth Cup event at Missing lecture series 2000. Bern in Swizerland. They fought off strong competition from 130 climbers from 12 Czechs Welcome other countries including some impressive The BMC recently organised an interna- teams from Slovenia and Switzerland. Ad- tional exchange with the Czech Republic. We assembled what was thought to be a crack team, including Leo Houlding, Andy Cave, Pete Robbins, Ben Tetler, Henry Nottage, and Ben Heason, giving an average grade of E8(!). Then squeezed them on to a bus to Prague and waited for reports of hard new things. However it seems that the Czechs redefine the term hard-core, all raised on a diet of extreme climbing on bold sandstone, with only the odd ring bolt or jammed knot for protection. The British team returned home, suitably impressed, and the Czechs paid a visit at the start of August. With extra recruits of Adrian Berry and Lucy Creamer, team Brit aimed to introduce the Rockfall at entrance to Huntsmans Leap. The missing buttress can be seen as brown Czechs to the best of British climbing, based am's success is even more remarkable since scarring at the top of the cliff. he has only just entered his current age in the Lake District with Dave Birkett, then Photo: Carl Ryan down to Pembroke, before finishing in North group (16-17). The BMC currently funds Wales. The list of hard routes ticked was 4 junior team members travel to each Youth Be carefull down Huntsmans Leap, a impressive, with the Czechs blitzing Event, but at the moment over 11 other rockfall from the top of the route Insig- Gogarth and Scafell, and everyone involved team members are forking out to come too. nificance at the entrance to the leap has is thanked for making the exchange such a With this level of commitment, things look resulted in a missing buttress! It serves success. A full report of all the goings on very positive for the future of British Com- as a good reminder to always be alert for will appear in Summit 16. petition Climbing. loose rock at Pembroke...

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 Major guidebook dabate at Kendal Film Festival: See page 33 5

21821_Summit15.p65 5 9/10/99, 2:04 PM NEWS Grants - BMC AGM - Troll BICC - Alpine Conville

Troll BICC 99/2000 Millennium Festival Awards for All: shire. Ideally situated for walking and The BMC is pleased to announce that Sport England is involved with this excit- climbing on the moors, the AGM will take Troll have once again agreed to be the title ing small grants programme designed es- place at the Craiglands Hotel and the Ilkley sponsor for this seasons British Indoor pecially for small voluntary groups within Grammar School. A full range of specialist Climbing Championships. Five rounds are local community sports development workshops and meetings are planned to planned, look out for venue details soon projects. Call the Hotline on 0845 600 compliment the usual lively dinner. on the BMC website, adverts in the press, 2040 for an information pack. Fly / Drive Deal and posters coming to walls near you... Winston Churchill Travelling Fellow- Mountain Innovations had launched a ships: For British citizens to travel over- new fly/drive package for the Highlands. Climbing Wall Standard seas to undertake study projects related With internal UK flights now so cheap, The draft European Standard prEN to their trade, profession, or particular in- they'll pick you up from any of the Scot- 12572, "Artifical climbing structures - Pro- terest. For further information send an sae tish mainland airports and provide tection points, stability requirements and to The Winston Churchill Memorial Trust, accomodation, transport, and meals. An test methods" has now been officially 15 Queen's Gate terrace, London SW7 ideal way to concentrate on the Cairn- adopted. All new climbing walls, and 5PR, Tel: 0171 584 9315. Deadline 22nd gorms and forget about the hassles of driv- modifications to exsiting walls should fol- October 1999. ing. Tel: 01479 831 331 / email: low these standards. Copies available [email protected] for details. from BSI, 389 Chiswick High Road, Lon- Technical Conference don, W4 4AL priced £36. The BMC Technical Conference returns Alpine Conville Courses to Plas y Brenin on 20th November with The Alpine Conville Courses are 3 day Grants & Awards what should be a fascinating line up. The alpine training courses, subsidised by the The following bodies are currently of- price for the day is £10 (£20 non mem- Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust. This fering grants and awards for various bers). In the evening there is an optional year over 100 alpine novices benefited projects and expeditions. sit down dinner with Pit Schubert, UIAA from the courses, based in Argentiere. Skills Alpine Ski Club Grants for Ski Moun- Safety Commission President, as guest taught included Guidebook times, objec- taineering, Ski Touring expeditions speaker, price £12.50. Registration forms tive dangers, the unfamiliar art of moving and Training: The Alpine Ski Club has for the conference are available direct from together and crevasse rescue techniques. two annual awards, and are interested in the BMC office or can be pulled off the Look out for details of next years courses recieving more applications this year. Ap- BMC website. in April. For training in the colder art of plication forms available from The ASC winter mountaineering, the winter Conville Awards Sub-Committee, Mrs Jay Turner, BMC Annual Gathering courses based in Scotland will start in Janu- 34 Clarence way, Horley, Surrey, RH 9GT. For those of you with an eye to next ary. More information in the next issue, Deadline end December 1999. years diary, the BMC AGM weekend is and if interested, apply to the BMC office planned for the 7-8th April, in Ilkley, York- in November.

Make-A-Wish Foundation ¨UK bleau Our purpose is simple - to grant favourite wishes of children suffering from life-threatening illnesses bleaublbleaueau Would you like to do something special in the New Millennium? bleau Then join the INCA TRAIL Event Sponsored by CHALLENGE 2000 100 MILES OF SPECTACULAR AND CHALLENGING £14.95 HIGH ALTITUDE TREKKING IN PERU. £14.95£14£14.95.95 In just two weeks, take in amazingly diverse culture and scenery travelling from La Paz, Bolivia, via Lake Titicaca and the Altiplano to Lima,Peru.Visit classic Inca ruins and enjoy a £14.95 fabulous trek around one of southern Peru’s highest peaks. Descend the Inca trail from glacial snows to mysterious high Please return coupon to: GreenShires Publishing,Telford Way, Kettering, Northants NN16 8UN jungle, to emerge at the most famous ruin of them all, the PLEASE SEND ME COPIES OF FONTAINEBLEAU GUIDE mysterious Machu Picchu. AT THE SPECIAL PRICE OF £14.95 each. Depart: 26th May 2000 (Please add Postage and Packing: UK-£2.80, Overseas-£5.00 (Surface Mail), £10 (Airmail) I enclose a cheque for £ ...... (Made payable for GreenShires Publishing) Return: 8th June 2000 Please debit my VISA / MASTERCARD / SWITCH (Issue No.______) Only £295 registration fee plus sponsorship in aid of Expiry Date MAKE-A-WISH FOUNDATION ¨UK For more details and an information pack telephone CARDHOLDER’S SIGNATURE...... NAME...... ADDRESS...... Steve Parfitt on 01580 292034 ...... Head Office: Make-A-Wish House, Tuscam Way, Camberley, Surrey GU15 3YY Telephone: 01276 24127 Fax: 01276 683727 ...... 6 Charity Reg No: 295672 POSTCODE...... DAYTIME TELEPHONE BMCNO...... SUMMIT - ISSUE.... 15

21821_Summit15.p65 6 9/10/99, 2:05 PM

ACCESS NEWS

Ban y Gor, Wye Building on the success of BMC members’ letter writing campaign, BMC Presi- Valley dent Derek Walker has written to all MPs Climbers are reminded to use the in England and Wales, highlighting the CC Guidebook recommended ap- BMC’s interests and asking them to press proach route to Ban y Gor rather the Government for early introduction of than crossing the field at the top of new access laws. The response has been the crag. excellent, and useful contacts have been made within Parliament to represent climbers’ and walkers’ interests when the Bill is Markfield, eventually introduced. Leicestershire Markfield quarry is now back The 1999 BMC Access in the hands of Tarmac, and a property company has been ap- Forum pointed to sell the site. New barbed Restrictions on climbing have again been wire fences and notices have been a hot topic this year. The BMC’s Access erected and climbers have recently and Conservation Committee is holding a been asked to leave the quarry. special seminar on Sunday 7 November at Negotiations are ongoing between Plas y Brenin to debate: Climbers, walk- Tarmac and the BMC. ers and wildlife protection. Questions to be raised include; Do we have the right balance between freedom and restrictions? Roaches - Parking What is changing? How should the BMC The restricted parking area at the respond? For more details contact the Ac- Roaches is being extended from cess Officers at the BMC office. Roaches: Roger Payne enjoying the increased the turning area below the main parking. Photo: Alex Messenger area to Ferny Knowl near Upper Stanage Bus News in Brief Hulme. A new lay- by may be constructed opposite the café beneath Hen Cloud. supported by Following meetings between the climb- Parking provision at the Roaches is suffi- The Stanage Bus serv- ers and countryside staff at Berry Head, cient on all but the busiest weekends. If ice was developed in part- the BMC is hopeful that the seasonal re- you want to be sure - get there early - or nership by the BMC and striction on Rainbow Bridge will be lifted alternatively use the park & ride. to allow climbing in the summer months the Peak District National Park Authority, next year. Access to Sypeland crag, York- and is made possible by the generous sup- shire remains a problem and the Estate is Access legislation port of Patagonia. The bus ran from Shef- not prepared to meet with the BMC to dis- Work on the Government’s proposed field throughout the summer period and cuss future arrangements. An annual re- access legislation is in full swing, though continues to be a resounding success. If view of nesting restrictions in Pembroke at the time of writing it is unlikely that you missed the bus this year, catch the occured on 13 August; a report will appear legislation will be introduced in 1999. The next one in May 2000, and help minimise in the next issue. BMC has been in close consultation with traffic in one of our favourite National the countryside agencies in England and Parks. Wales over measures to improve access Oxwich Quarry, Gower for climbing and walking, including steps The Countryside Council for Wales to increase access to crags in lowland ar- (CCW) has confirmed that it is satisfied eas. With so much work already in hand with the BMC’s proposed access agree- it seems probable that the proposals will ment for Oxwich Quarry which it will be eventually become law. putting to the land owner. The agreement The inaugural meeting of the Country- will mean that the BMC & CCW will jointly side Access Forum for England was held manage the site with the BMC taking re- in London on 21 July. The Forum ad- sponsibility for climbing activities. vises the Countryside Agency on the development of policy and procedures which Stone Farm will assist the Agency in implementing the Government’s proposed legislation. The The BMC’s purchase of Stone Farm Forum will have 16 members, and the Rocks from Forest Enterprise is going ahead BMC is represented on it by the Chair of as reported in High 201. The site is a geo- the Access and Conservation Committee, logical SSSI and the BMC and English Na- Iain McMorrin. There will also be an ture are meeting in early September to dis- Access Forum for Wales. cuss ground erosion control plans.

8 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

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WINTER SKILLS Winter mountaineering is becoming increasingly popular each year, as people flock to the snow clad hills of the UK in search of a unique challenge. Simon Hale examines some of the key skills you’ll need during the winter months, and looks at some of the common problems associated with COLDtravelling in potentially inhospitable conditions.CUR

Simon Hale, Plas y Brenin

Preparation and Respect Operating in the winter environment requires preparation and respect. No matter what the weather is like in the valleys, you must be equipped for potentially harsh conditions. The winter mountaineer must be organised and be aware of the correct use of a map and compass, and also be familiar with crucial winter equipment such as ice axes, crampons. Inevitably this means spending hard earned cash on kit, and perhaps checking your existing gear to see if it’s up to the rigours of a Scottish blizzard. But before you rush out to the nearest to consider when using crampons. It cannot be tempting shop, it’s worth considering what to look for. stressed enough that the compatibility of the boot and crampon is vital, so take your boots along when The Equipment buying crampons. A waterproof shell is crucial, ideally in a hard wearing breath- able fabric, which fits you, and has a hood perhaps large enough Crampons to accommodate a helmet. Check that it can be tightly fastened Crampons are an essential tool when moving on and remains tight, flapping hoods are bad news when the going firm and/or steep snow and ice, and must be com- gets rough and windy. Make sure you can adjust all the toggles patible with the boot, and fitted to the manufactur- and zips with gloved hands or cold fingers. And remember that ers instructions. For the average mountaineer a 12 the most expensive jackets are not necessarily the best! point articulating crampon is often the best, with a Overtrousers are no longer a luxury in winter, they are essen- strap system to match the boot. Many crampons tial. Check that they fit well, and stay up. Baggy material below now have a step in heel unit and a strap or “French the knee could catch on crampons and trip you up, whilst braces style front”, meaning that the crampon is simple to will help ensure a snug fit. A full length zip allows them to be fit, an important consideration in poor weather. A Andy Cave on the Shroud. changed in the rapidly fluctuating conditions often encountered. grading system has been devised to match boot and Photo: Lowe Alpine / Houlihan A pair of gaiters with a retaining strap underneath the boot are crampon suitability, worth referring to when con- invaluable, without a well fitting gaiter your boots will get very sidering your choice. It is well worth noting that a wet, especially when crossing deep, wet, or drifted snow. very common cause of trips and slips in the winter hills is poor A hat is very important, and perhaps a thin balaclava to help fitting and inappropriate crampon/ boot combinations. You often reduce heat loss from head and neck in extreme conditions. Make need to fit crampons whilst wearing gloves so ensure they are not sure that it will stay on your head in windy conditions. too fiddly. And once your crampons are on, take a moment to Gloves or mitts are another essential, and you should carry at tighten them up after walking a few paces, then finally tuck any least one spare pair. But do remember that you must be able to excess strap securely away. Excessively long straps should be cut effectively grip an ice axe or hold a map and compass, so very to a usable length. bulky but warm mitts may not be suitable. A few pairs of differ- When wearing crampons, keep your feet further apart than nor- ent gloves are often best, and woollen gloves, which are still mal and lifted clear of the snow on each step. It’s important that warm when wet, can be a cheap but effective answer! you control the crampon and take positive considered steps to A good base layer is very important to wick away moisture and remain in balance and control at all times, and remember to flex over that a layer system allows easy temperature control. those ankles! The skills of safe and effective crampon use need to Other items worth their weight include spare warm clothing , be practised before they are used for real. head torch (and spare battery & bulb), food, hot flask, and bivvy bag. You must be able to cope in an emergency but remember Ice Axe when packing that they who travel lightest travel swiftest! This is a fundamental tool for the winter mountaineer, and in combination with crampons allows safe movement over all man- Boots ner of snowy terrain. The axe has many uses, but it is commonly Boots must be comfortable but it is extremely important for safe carried in the uphill hand, adze forward and spike in the snow to movement that they have a stiff enough sole to allow the wearer help movement stability and confidence. to kick effectively into firm snow. The sole rigidity is also a factor The choice of axes is enormous, but for general mountaineering

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21821_Summit15.p65 10 9/10/99, 2:07 PM an axe 50-65 cm would be suitable. A wrist loop can be useful. and monitor your progress through- The crucial thing with axes is that it is in your hand before you out the day. Often the best decisions need it, so if in doubt, get it out! are the most difficult to make, especially if you have travelled a long way Using your gear for the weekend. But remember the hills Clearly the safe and effective use of ice axe will always be there next time, make sure and crampons are fundamental skills, combined you will be too. with the judgement about when to use them. It is easy to be over ambitious in the comfort of a pub, but it pays Many accidents are caused because people ne- to give yourself plenty of time, remembering that darkness falls URE glect to use the equipment they have with them. early in Scotland during the winter months. Always leave a mar- Remember that crampons need to be put on gin when planning the day. Aim to start early, even in darkness, before you slip over on the hard or steep terrain! and finish with daylight to spare. The many people who’ve suf- It is much safer and easier to stop and don cram- fered long cold nights out on the Aonach Eagach ridge would be pons on gentle terrain rather than tottering precari- the first to agree. And never forget your headtorch with a spare ously on a hard wind swept slope – believe me! The battery and bulb. ice axe needs to be in your hand before you start moving across the snow, ready to stop a slip. Have your Summary axe to hand without removing your sack or get some- Good navigation, self-reliance and common sense, as well as a one to remove it for you. healthy respect for snow and often fast changing and challenging weather, all help to make the summits a realistic goal. Movement When moving on snow, pick a line up the lowest Have the right equipment with you for the conditions and know angle of slope and if possible zigzag, remembering to how to use it safely. keep your axe in the uphill hand. Aim for a steady Plan your objectives realistically based on your level of experi- rhythmical pace and take care when changing direc- ence and fitness tion, when the slope steepens or the snow changes and Always carry axe and crampons, as well as basic emergency kit gets harder or softer. Many adjustments have to be Get your axe in your hand, and crampons on your feet before a trip made and concentration is required, so it is often more becomes a slide and know how to quickly perform an ice axe trying than summer walking. Speed and efficiency of arrest. movement in winter are mainly governed by the con- Be a confident, safe navigator and consider your route choice ditions and these vary greatly with aspect, height, and carefully for prevailing conditions. time. Wind blown snow and gusting wind can make Take heed, there is no substitute for experience and sound judge- movement difficult and increase the dangers of gullies ment developed over time and slopes, and ridges can develop corniced edges, Get some training in the basic skills and develop other important another unique winter hazard. areas Finally take care and enjoy the winter hills safely. Where am I? The ability to navigate effectively in poor weather with heavy snow cover is crucial, and being lost in a BMC WINTER LECTURE SERIES blizzard is not the ideal scenario in which to learn. In association with Lowe Alpine Hone your navigation in good conditions, so you are confident when it matters. Get into the habit of checking your position on the map frequently, the conse- All dates November, Tickets £3.00 BMC quences of getting lost in winter can be very serious! Members* or £5.00 non-members But even the most experienced occasionally have problems, so beware. Make your task easier, keep your map and London: 16th compass handy and fold the map to cover just the area you need. UCL, Edward Lewis Theatre, Windeyer Building, 46 A laminated map is best in winter, and if possible attach your Cleveland Street, London. compass to your jacket. Learn about walking on a bearing, pac- Warwick: 17th ing and timing, and have the ability to interpret contours and slope Warwick University, The Ramphal Building, Gibbett Hill aspect. Road, Coventry.

Southampton: 18th Planning the day University of Southampton, Education Lecture Theatre, Having the right gear and basic skills is only part of the jigsaw University Road, Highfield, Southampton. that is a safer winter experience. Choosing a venue is important with reference to the prevailing weather and snow conditions. Nottingham: 22nd Nottingham University, Room A48 Social Sciences Building, Popular areas like the Cairngorms, Glencoe and Ben Nevis are University Park, Nottingham. covered by the Scottish Avalanche information service. This information is updated daily and posted at car parks and shops, as Sunderland: 23rd well as being available via phone, fax and the web. Always Sunderland University, Tom Cowie Lecture Theatre, St consider the conditions when planning and evaluating the route. Peter’s Campus, Sunderland. Route planning is especially important in the winter and a flex- Bristol / Oxford: ible and adaptable approach to the day is crucial. Sometimes it is 24 or 25th to be confirmed. necessary to change your route or retreat in order to prevent exposure to unacceptable risk. Pushing on and ignoring the sig- *BMC individual, club and associate members are eligible nals is foolhardy. Watch for changing and unexpected weather for discounted entry

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HILLWALKING HillHill ((hilhil)) n.n. [OE.[OE. Hyll]Hyll] aa nanatt A to Z of equipment and skills

key, and decide whether you need a light summer boot, a winter boot or an all rounder. A very high proportion of accidents in the hills are due to the simple slip so it is important to choose a boot with a sole that is designed for the job , (see page 18). Take time and shop around. Try the boots on with your own socks. A good fit will give you room around the toes whilst holding the heel so that it doesn’t lift too much. Having bought the boots go for waste. But in most cases the most practi- short walks before embarking on the ‘big cable way to dispose of human waste is Hillwalking is an activity that takes the one’. This will soften up the boot and to bury it in a sensible place - use a trowel walker away from the confinements of make you aware of any rub points and to dig a hole far as possible from water the lowland track and up onto the higher the best socks to fit. At the end of the and down stream from your own and other moors and mountains. A day could in- day your boots will be damp, allow them likely camp sites. If using paper then carry clude considerable ascent and descent, to dry slowly and don’t be tempted to it out or burn if there is no fire hazard. possibly way off well trodden paths. As put them too close to the fire. such, Hill walking requires a degree of self is for GPS. A modern aid that can sufficiency both in terms of equipment is for Compass. For most naviga provide a lot of useful information carried and of skills learned. It is about G tional needs the most basic com- but it is important to remember that it being out in the hills, not just about bag- C pass is perfectly adequate, it really is a does not replace navigation skills. To use ging summits, traversing a remote pass or case of ‘ it’s not what you’ve got it’s how one effectively you must already be able crossing a wild moor or even walking some you use it’. to accurately interpret a map and navigate of the remote Scottish coastline is just as with a compass. A GPS without a map much part of this wild game. is for Dodgy stomach. In theory and compass is of little use in the hills, running water without farm or habi- nor is one where the batteries have run is for Avalanches. Which can and D tation up stream should be fine, but in down. do occur in the British hills. Being A recent years pathogens such as giardia have able to make a judgement as to whether or been on the increase. This is probably due is for Headtorch and fresh battery. not a slope may avalanche is a key winter to wild camping and poor waste manage- Because you just never know. skill and until experienced and confident H ment. Be on your guard, boil the water it is wise to be very cautious about cross- (10minutes) or use Iodine tablets. is for Insect repellent. Despite its di ing snow-laden slopes. Iminutive size, the Scottish midge is is for Eating. The amount of food one of the most vicious creatures on earth, is for Boots. Uncomfortable boots and drink required by the body will making strong repellent an essential in the give miserable days. Comfort is the E B vary tremendously depending on condi- summer season. DEET is highly effective tions and the distance and terrain walked. but powerful and potentially harmful. Use On a warm day you can get away with a with care and keep away from children. Walk (wok) vi [OE. Wealcan, to roll] small amount of food but will suffer if Good alternatives to DEET exist, experi- you skimp on the drink. But on a cold ment to find what works for you. 1. To move along at a moderate pace by winters day you’ll need a good quantity placing one foot (or, with quadrupeds, of food and drink just to keep warm. Have is for Jacket. Big enough to get plenty two feet) on the ground before lifting the an emergency bar or two tucked out of the Jof layers under but with a waist way ‘just in case’, and don’t get overly drawcord to stop it flapping around. Look other (or others). 2. To appear after death technical about calorie intake and balanced for a map pocket, stiffened hood which as a ghost. 3. To follow a certain way of diets unless you plan to be on the go for gives good visibility when up, but which life. 5. To bring to a specified state by weeks, pick the snack food that you en- can be fixed out of the way when not in joy. use, and good closure at the wrist walking [to walk oneself into exhaus- tion]. Walk on air; to be extremely happy. is for Faeces. In some popular areas is for Karma. Be nice to people. Fbuild up of human waste is a real K problem and there is an increasing onus on walkers to bag up and carry out their

14 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

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BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 15 I

21821_Summit15.p65 15 9/13/99, 11:19 AM YOUTH Competitive

The Rockit BRYCS final at the Edge Rockface, by Anne Arran

135 current young hot shots from 9 Emma Twyford managed to out perform different regions throughout England, most of the boys of her age, so watch out Scotland and Wales made it to the Na- for her... tional final of the ROCKIT British Re- gional Youth Competition Series. These The steely Scottish performance was were the lucky or especially talented ones one of the highlights, plus intermittent who had made it through to come in the squeals of frustration when things were top 3 places in their region out of a total of not going so well for one team member or between 350 and 400 young climbers. The another. The older girls had a very flam- patter or clatter of feet was being engaged boyant dress sense and even revealed sport- by Mandy Homer from the Warehouse, ing patriotic tattoos. The competitors' stand- who co-ordinated a very lively warm up ard surprised the routesetters and was par- to music. Meanwhile those oldies who ticularly high in the 7 – 9 and 10 - 12 yr old had stayed up late the night before were girls where superfinals took place. But busily briefing volunteers who had been rapid routesetters Dr Perkins, Shane Ohly asked to take on important roles. These from HB and Adam Dewhurst quickly cre- included Rock Face Manager, Stewart ated interesting stamina traverses to put the Duckworth, Paul and Margaret Dewhurst, top two contenders in each category Ian Parnell, Anne and John Arran. Adam through their paces. Dewhurst, top 10 in the world, Interna- Apart from the superfinals the most ex- tional competition star, was on hand to citing finishes came from the 13 – 15 year help set any boulder problems should old girls 7a+ route. It was very close be- superfinals be necessary. tween Holly Reay, Julia Worboys, Frances Finch and Sadie Renwick, but Alice Armed with tee Worthington from the Northwest pulled out shirts, stickers and a few extra moves to leave the pressure on 10-12yr old girls Rockit BRYCS 10-12yr old girls lots of attitude the the final climber Kim Pearson. Kim made 1 Emma Twyford entertainment began. it through the bulge to fall a 2 Jemma Powell Final 1999 few moves from the top. 3 Rosemary Shaw Each competitor had to 4= Charlene Lewis complete 5 boulder Whilst in the older boys' age results 4= Marina L.-Wujastyk problems and 3 category Bob Elliott clinched 4= Hannay Wright routes.There was lots of victory with Ryan Pasquill a noisy support for fellow close second precipitated by an Team Results 10-12 year old boys competitors, amazing unfortunate grabbing of the top 1. NW Area 1 Ian Hollows lock offs and unimagi- of the wall. 2. Peak 2 Christoper Whiteman nably high foot place- 3. NE and Lakes 3 Tom Bolger ments that enabled the It was a fun day with bril- 4 Thomas Newman 4. Yorks plus Hum climbers to succeed on liant support from The 5. London and SE 5 Michael Reedie the more tricky prob- Rockface, BMC Area Youth Co-ordinators, parents, spon- 7-9 year old girls 13-15 yr old girls lems. I was struck by the sors and volunteers. Paul 1 Leah Crane 1 Kim Pearson maturity of climbers like 2 Samantha Harker 2 Alice Worthington Kim Pearson from Dewhurst, British Team Man- 3 Hazel Findlay 3= Holly Reay Wales and Emma ager, had created some topical 4 Sally Risdale 3= Julia Worboys Twyford from the trophies made out of lumps of 5 Rose Simnett 5 Frances Finch Lakes who despite the slate and it was a serious jug- obvious pressure at gling act for the prize winners 7-9yr old boys 13-15 yr old boys times, maintained com- to hold onto everything from 1 Matthew B.-Wilson 1 Robert Elliott posure, a relaxed atti- ROCKIT, Urban Rock and 2 Bim Brown 2 Ryan Pasquill tude and a friendly out- HB - still struggling to hold all 3 David Bennett 3 Elliot Wilde look on both the wall your prizes is a fine position 4 Martin Watson 4 Tom Lawrence 5 Brock Comer 5 Jason Kirkbride and fellow competitors. to be in!

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21821_Summit15.p65 16 9/10/99, 2:19 PM Lakes Area YOUTH Youth Meet

Our Man About Town, Andy Perkins reports

The weather forecast wasn’t great for the 2nd BMC Lakes Area Youth Meet when the team met at the FRCC Rawhead hut in Langdale. BMC youth dude Andy Perkins kept telling people “It’s OK – it can’t be as wet as last year”…. How wrong can you be? The Lakes proved him very very wrong; the rivers burst their banks and huge torrents of water cascaded down the fells, but hey – who cares? The team still went climbing. Routes got done on Gimmer, Dow, Wallabarrow, Thrang Quarry, Kendal Bridge (where?) and Kendal Wall from Diff up to 7a+. Saturday night gave us a monster veg chilli courtesy of Wilf’s, then slide shows from Lakes guru Ron Kenyon and granite/grit headcase Andy Perkins, followed by South African action from local man Dave "Learned new technikes (sic). Got wet and cold Birkett. but loved every minute of it" – Mary-Ann Curran, Sunday morning saw horizontal rain, but nearly half the team 15, Grange over Sands opted for the outdoor option, with teams getting their first outdoor lead ever on Middlefell Buttress and it even stopped raining "Climbed on Dow Crag in the rain in trainers for a couple of hours! Wiser (dryer) teams went to Trowbarrow and found it hard. Got more experience on moun- or Kendal Wall and, in the end, stacks of climbing got done. tain crags in the wet – and had a laugh" – Jason Thanks to all the volunteers who helped out with the meet, the FRCC for the hut, the Lakes area for hosting it and Michael Fish Kirkbride, 15, Penrith for the weather. We have a regular fixture with this meet. See you there next year!

"Got wet, cold, a laugh and a first lead on Middlefell Buttress" – Jack Sheperd, 14, Cockermouth

"Met loads of people and had a good laugh. Learned new rope techniques (and how to sleep like a log)" – Matthew McGuiness, 14, Cockermouth

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 17

21821_Summit15.p65 17 9/10/99, 2:20 PM ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT Sole Searching Whatever outdoor activity you enjoy, footwear can make the difference between a bad day and a great one. But how does it work? David Udberg from Scarpa takes a closer look at your body and sole.

As the range of mountain activities has increased and end- eering boots, the durability of the sole is a more important issue use requirements become more specific, then so the need for more and sole manufacturers give emphasis to developing rubbers that specific forms of mountain and climbing footwear has evolved. will wear well, as the lifespan of the cleating on these soles is Some thirty years ago, people going in to the hills probably used critical to grip and safety. Furthermore, these soles are used a pair of basic, leather mountain boots which were likely to be through such a wide range of conditions, from hot summer condi- soled with the classic Vibram Montagne Block sole or some equiva- tions in warm climates, through to cold winter mountain condi- lent. Climbers would probably have had little choice outside a tions – all of which bring varying performance requirements from pair of EB’s. Today, footwear has evolved to the extent that there the rubber of the sole units. High quality sole manufacturers like are specific forms of footwear for climbing, mountaineering, high Vibram and Skywalk work hard to provide sole units from rubber altitude mountaineering, big wall climbing, scrambling, hillwalking compounds designed to provide good performance across this and rambling. For each of these activities, boot manufacturers range. have developed specific footwear, designed to deliver improved performance and make the activity safer and more comfortable. A Cleating key part of these developments has been work done on sole units. Next to the selection of the right rubber compound, the biggest Many peopleHill buying footwear will find their attention drawn to issue facing boot and sole unit manufacturers is the design of the the design and style of the uppers but of crucial importance is the ‘cleating’ (or tread) of the sole unit. Again, the fragmentation in constructional integrity of the footwear, and in particular the sole the range of mountain sports has brought with it the need for unit used. So what goes into the design and development of boot specific forms of cleating. What is ideally required in a walking soles for these various specific activities? boot sole is different from that of a mountaineering sole and different again from a scrambling boot sole.

Weight One demand of modern boots is that they should be as lightweight as possible and a key factor in the weight of a boot is the sole unit. Weight is directly related to the amount of rubber used in the moulding process and in general manufacturers will seek to use the minimum amount of rubber in order to keep weight and cost to a minimum. However, here again there are often conflict- ing requirements in the design of the sole. Whilst minimising the amount of rubber in the cleating brings advantages of reduced cost and weight and a more open sole design can have some ‘anti- clogging’ benefits, this has to be traded at the expense of good grip in critical areas of the sole. Too much attention to saving rubber can produce soles with accelerated wear problems.

John Southworth trying to avoid boot wear on the Slickrock Trail, Shock absorbtion Moab, Utah. Photo: Alex Messenger Similarly, the use of cushioning and padding can both lighten the weight of the sole and give extra padding. This can give a feel The rubber mix of immediate comfort in store when buying the boot but can come The development of rubber compounds is a highly technical at the expense of these padded areas compacting and deforming business with sole manufacturers endeavouring to blend com- over time reducing the overall performance. An increasing amount pound ingredients to provide optimum performance. Apart from of work is now going into the development of expanded poly- the actual quality of the rubber mix and the moulding, probably urethane sections in soles to give improved cushioning without the biggest issue facing manufacturers is the trade-off between the degradation and deformation problems. However, the more friction and durability. Good friction comes in the main from hard wearing and performance orientated boots will tend to use softer rubber compounds, which unfortunately are prone to wear- dual density rubber soles to create underfoot cushioning. This is ing quickly. On the other hand harder rubbers that wear well slightly heavier but provides more precise heel strike perform- generally lack good friction. In products like rockshoes, the search ance. is always on for the very best in friction whilst obtaining a reasonable degree of durability. However, most climbers recognise that Crampon compatibility to some extent the durability of the rubber has to be traded off to Most mountain users will want boots that are capable of fitting some degree in order to get theRock required levels of friction. As a crampons. Whilst the issue of boot and crampon compatibility is result, climbers accept that to get the best of performance they much broader than just the compatibility of the sole unit and re- have to replace their shoes relatively frequently. With mountain-

18 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

21821_Summit15.p65 18 9/13/99, 1:03 PM lates also to the lasting, midsole strength, and quality and con- rubber cleating around the edges of struction of the uppers, the design of the sole should enable an the forefoot and heel strike areas, with appropriate crampon to be fitted. In the case of a winter walking a more open cleating pattern in the boot this should at least be capable of accepting a walking cram- centre of the sole. The outer cleating pon (C1) or an articulated crampon (C2). For a full winter moun- construction enables a safe and even taineering boot where a full clip on crampon (C3) may be fitted, grip to be had around the edges of the then the sole must be designed to take the toe bail and heel clip. By sole, whereas the more open cleating using these factors, it is possible to design soles to meet a variety in the centre of the sole keeps weight of mountain and climbing requirements and this has led to spe- low and minimises ‘clogging-up’ of cific types of end use sole being developed: the sole. Increasingly, boot manufacturers Rockclimbing sole are now also looking at the function Making good climbing shoe soles is all about obtaining the of the foot in use and the leading pro- optimum in friction properties and durability. Unfortunately, ducers are now developing cleat patterns that are shaped and de- these two performance characteristics tend to counter each other signed to operated in line with the flow of the foot in walking and getting the optimum blend is a difficult science with rubber action. Also, increasing development is going into ensuring that manufacturers working to the finest tolerances in the rubber there is good grip in both uphill and downhill walking modes. mixes they develop. An incredible amount of testing and development goes into the precise blend of compounds for rockshoe Big Wall climbing & Scrambling sole rubbers, with every company trying to gain even the slightest The soles used on these advantages. A further consideration, however, is the elasticity styles of boots have certain and memory of the rubber. It is important for a good fitting sole common characteristics. rand that it should stretch but also that it has a ‘memory’, and They will be used for a mix will try to return to its original shape. There is an added compli- of activities from walk-ins cation here in that certain sticky rubbers have a poor memory through to long climbing and will gradually lose shape over time and the rubber manufac- days. As a consequence, turer has also to fight against this problem. There is no require- they must be capable of pro- ment for cleating or moulding of climbing shoe soles and more viding a level of support and comfort that would be impossible Peakoften than not these are developed and used in flat sheet form. from a rockshoe for walk-ins, all day climbing and standing in The thickness of the rubber however is a key issue. Thicker etriers, yet at the same time be able to provide a high level of rubbers last longer but do so at the expense of some loss of performance for climbing and scrambling. The combination of the sensitivity. It is therefore not uncommon to find very top end sole and midsole here must be laterally stiff enough for good performance/smearing shoes will have a thinner rubber sole edging performance whilst having enough longitudinal flex to than the entry level climbing shoe. enable a degree of smearing. The rubber used needs to combine both good frictional properties and also provide an acceptable Mountaineering sole level of durability. There must be no distortion in the forefoot These tend to be more aggressive sole caused by underfoot padding (as this would impede technical units. The sole incorporates a deep level climbing performance) and a solid rubber toe area is required for of cleating for maximum grip and also good placement in pockets and on small holds. has a high level of rubber around the perimeter edges of the sole (this allows Wear secure placement when edging on small Although so much work goes into modern boot and sole develop- holds). The heel has a deeper heel bit ments, there have been recent accidents in which people have been area for descent on unstable ground. injured or killed in the mountains where the use of inappropriate The unit will be moulded in a hard wear- footwear has been cited as a potentially contributory factor. In some ing Vibram rubber compound (which cases, this has involved boots that were of suitable original design has changed very little over the years from the original Montagne but which had become badly worn around the soles (analogous to Block compound). The sole should also have incorporated into driving a car on badly worn tyres). It is strongly recommended that its (and/or the boots) design, the capability of taking a full clip on the soles of boots should be in good condition and not excessively crampon. worn. Many people are reluctant to discard their boots if the uppers are in good condition but the soles have worn. However, there are Hillwalking sole several good repair centres who are able to resole boots at reason- Although less aggressive than the mountaineering soles, what able cost and it is often a better economy to buy boots at the outset we seek in a good hillwalking sole unit is a generous level of that are capable of being resoled. Anyone interested in learning more about the technical side of walking boots should come along to the Technical Conference, where Brian Hall will be giving a special talk on the subject.

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TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Stresses & Strains

For most, equipment faliure is the last thing considered, but for some it's the first. With the forthcoming Technical Conference we take a look at the work of the Technical Committee and see what's new in the world of stresses and strains.

When an item of equipment breaks we usually want to The mysterious climbing know why. Sometimes its obvious but occasionally we may sus- wall krab is put though pect a defect in the manufacture or design and wish for an inde- its paces. Photo courtesy pendent opinion before taking it up with the manufacturer. In of DMM Testing. some cases the user may simply be baffled by the failure and want to know what lessons can be learnt. This is where the BMC What exactly is the Technical Committee? Equipment Investigation Panel comes in and any climber, It’s worth taking a moment to describe the structure of the BMC’s hillwalker or mountaineer with failed technical equipment is en- Technical Group and the work done by each of its subgroups; couraged to send the gear to the EIP for investigation. On average the Panel actively investigates about 16 incidents a year and will The Technical Committee. Oversees the work of all the other give an informal opinion on many more. In cases where the panel groups and is the decision making element of the Technical Group. decides an investigation is warranted one of the independent ex- The TC is directly involved in standards work and is represented on perts is nominated as the investigator and he will carry out tests, the UIAA safety commission. The TC also organises the Technical talk to the owner and draft a report. Some interesting incidents Conference and occasional equipment seminars in the BMC office. have been seen in the past two years: The Equipment Investigation Panel (EIP). Investigates failed or damaged equipment. Panel includes independent experts as Acid rope: Rare but not unique. A climber noticed some damage well as trade, retail, training and rescue representatives. The TC is to his rope after a wall session. The investigation detected sulphu- always looking for new EIP members, if you have technical ex- ric acid on the rope. The rope was in a very dangerous state. As yet pertise and would be interested in joining the panel then please the source of the acid has not been discovered. contact the National Officer. The Research Working Group. Co-ordinates and supports re- Technical axe picks: A climber operating on high standard mixed search in climbing related areas. This newly constituted group climbs sent in several snapped picks. Investigation and discus- consists mainly of academics, and aims to co-ordinate and sion with the manufacturer quickly concluded that the picks were encourage research which will have practical benefit to users. being loaded outside their design spec and highlighted the prob- Abseil Stations Working Group. Oversees all fixed anchor place- lems of using picks designed principally for ice climbing on diffi- ments in which the BMC is directly involved, initiates regular cult mixed routes. Thicker picks designed specifically for mixed monitoring and advises on new placements. climbing are now appearing on the market. The Booklet Working Group. Currently hard at work on a major new publication which covers ‘Care, Maintenance, Failure Screwgate & Figure of Eight: A final report was published and Ageing’ of all mountaineering equipment. This is due out covering three incidents where the figure-of-eight in an abnormal early next year and should become a key reference work. Over the configuration levered open a closed screwgate karabiner with pre- past two years new Knots and Ropes booklets have been pro- dictably disastrous consequences. The report highlighted the im- duced and later this year the Crampons booklet will be expanded portance of climbers checking that their screwgate and figure-of- and redesigned. eight are properly aligned before loading them. The members of the Technical Group are either independent experts with technical backgrounds or are representatives of the Ancient Rope: A 29 year old rope was tested. Although stiff the manufacturers, retailers, trainers or rescuers. The Chairman of the rope appeared visually to be in good condition. In the drop test it Technical Committee is Neville McMillan. Trevor Hellen Chairs survived one drop but was very close to failure and broke on the the EIP and Research WG, and The BMC’s National Officer acts second. This was useful information as the Panel increased its as Secretary to the Group. understanding of how ropes degrade. Climbing wall krab: One of the more tricky investigations cur- The 1999 Technical Conference rently underway involves a snapgate karabiner which broke dur- Plas y Brenin 20th November 1999 ing a fall at a climbing wall. The problem is that the krab was on Featuring Equipment Investigation, Ongoing research the first quickdraw and the climber who fell had already clipped projects, Q & A Panel and practical sessions on managing the second. How enough load came onto the first quickdraw to equipment pools, and much more. break the karabiner is still something of a mystery. £10 members (£20 non members) Following the conference there will be a sit down dinner with So if any gear breaks and you don’t know why, Pit Schubert (president of the UIAA Safety Commision) as send it in to the EIP and we’ll try and tell you. guest speaker. Dinner tickets cost £12.50. For registration forms contact the National Officer at the BMC office

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21821_Summit15.p65 21 9/10/99, 2:32 PM TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Standard Practice Don't know your PPEs from CEN? Climbing Equipment Standards explained...

Almost all climbing hardware comes un- ity control is up to scratch then CE approval der the European Personal Protective Equip- will be given. Also, the Directive allows for ment Directive. This applies to equipment different levels of protection. The EN stand- carried on the person to protect against falls ard for chocks (EN12270), having the needs from a height (eg. harness, ropes, chocks, of climbers in mind, specifies a minimum strength of only 2kN. RPs meet the standard, karabiners), or to protect against slippage and have CE approval. (crampons), or head protection (helmets). To be allowed to sell an item of PPE in How does PPE apply to equip Europe a manufacturer must go to an inde- Qment made outside Europe? pendent ‘Notified Body’ and have their If equipment is classified as PPE it must be equipment tested against an appropriate submitted to a ‘Notified Body’ before it can Steve McClure taking time off from standard and their quality control verified. legally be sold. If the Notified Body is satis- Ravenstor and wondering what relevance Once approval is given the equipment can fied that it meets the appropriate European PPE is to his gear. Photo: Alex Messenger carry the CE mark and go on sale. standard and if the company’s quality control is in order then it can be appropriately Now that all climbing gear has Pre 1995 the international standards to marked and sold in Europe. Qto meet the standards, is there any which some equipment (mostly ropes and point in buying anything other than the helmets) was manufactured were those pub- With the CN working groups cheapest gear? lished by the UIAA Safety Commission. Qnow producing the legally re- Yes, there is. The standards are not “stand- Manufacturers could choose whether to quired standards has the UIAA’s standards of excellence”. To pass the standard, manufacture to the UIAA standard and ards role become superseded? equipment only has to meet the minimum requirements for the lowest level of protec- whether to apply for a UIAA label. Since UIAA standards are still the international benchmark, and many non European coun- tion. Hence it is more important than ever for 1st July 1995 manufacturers have been re- the user to understand the strength markings quired by law to meet the requirements of tries manufacture to the UIAA standard. This matches and sometimes exceeds the Euro- on the gear he is buying. With chocks and the Directive on PPE. The easiest way to do pean standard. In addition the UIAA safety camming devices, always compare the fail- this is to meet the requirements of the EN commission is constantly reviewing stand- ure strengths. A camming device with a fail- standards for mountaineering equipment ards, which the CEN working group cannot ure strength of 5kN may seem financially produced by Working Group 5 of CEN do, and modifying its standards if necessary. very attractive, but a 10kN strength will give TC136. Much of the active input into Work- It is envisaged that this process will then feed a much higher margin of safety. On karabiners into CEN standards work as they are up- the gate-open strength is the important ing Group 5 comes from members of the number. Remember that the manufacturer’s UIAA Safety Commission and as a result dated. Because UIAA standards can be modi- fied relatively quickly this means that UIAA data only applies when the gear is brand spank- the EN standards are largely based on the ing new. Some gear will deteriorate faster than standards will be the most up to date. old UIAA standards but with considerable others. This is particularly important with revision and updating. Since the publica- ropes; good abrasion resistance and more I’m told that PPE requires me tion of the EN standards the UIAA Safety nylon in the rope may cost more money, but to retire my equipment after a cer- Commission has redefined its own stand- Q it may be worth it in the long run. Other tain time, is this true? ards to be based on the EN standards with a factors such as feel, handling, ease of use, are NO. The PPE directive requires that manu- very personal but very important. So price few additional requirements. facturers of equipment ‘subject to ageing’ should certainly not be the only criterion. include with their product information ad- Although the PPE Directive came into vice to the user on when to retire equipment. I thought standards are meant force in 1995 work on the EN standards In response most manufacturers took the ob- Qto ensure equipment is safe but has progressed at somewhat variable pace. vious step of giving a lifetime, typically in how come some gear still breaks in nor- Most of the Standards have now been com- the form of “ x years of average use and in mal climbing situations? any case not more than y years regardless of pleted and published but a few (helmets, ice Climbing equipment standards are written use”. The figures x and y tend to be very tools, crampons, descenders and belaying to minimise the risk of failure whilst keeping conservative, as the manufacturers quite un- the equipment usable. The consequences of a devices) are still being worked on. derstandably have to be 100% sure that the failure are also taken into account. In the case item will not have degraded significantly after of ropes a failure is likely to have fatal conse- Does the PPE directive not sti y years. In practice the figures are not terri- quences and so the standard demands a high fle invention. What of useful bly helpful. In use any item’s lifetime is en- Q level of safety. As a result a rope has never tirely dependant on the pattern of use (or items that do not come under an exist- broken in use due to design or manufactur- misuse). The decision on when to retire ing standard or would not meet the re- ing faults (they have always failed by abra- equipment should be made on the basis of quirements of a standard. RP’s come to sion, cutting, or chemical degradation). In an equipment log, regular checks and a mind? the case of snapgate karabiners a failure is less knowledge of how various uses will degrade In practise the PPE directive is surprisingly likely to have fatal consequences and climb- the equipment. If equipment has been stored sympathetic toward innovation. For items ers want lightweight karabiners. Because of unused then things become complicated, an where no appropriate standard exists then this the standard allows an open gate strength individual can make a free choice to use the manufacturer is free to write his own in- of 7kN. This makes open gate failure very equipment for as long as they have confi- house standard and present this to the ‘Noti- unlikely but not impossible. The EIP sees a dence in it but a centre will have to have a fied body’ for approval. So long as the in- couple of such failures each year but fortu- clear-cut argument if equipment is to be used house standard meets the requirements of nately such incidents rarely have injuries as- after being stored for y years. the Directive, and the manufacturer’s qual- sociated with them.

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21821_Summit15.p65 22 9/10/99, 2:35 PM E5 = mc 2 or THE SCIENCE OF CLIMBING calculated by Jonathan Bursnall

For 3 days in April, a group of Academics gathered at a rather drab 70’s style university hall of residence just outside Leeds. Not really the stuff that legends are made of. However, if I tell you that these academics all shared a common interest in the application of technology to the development of climbing, and that they were gathering for the 1st International Conference of Science and Technology in Climbing & Mountaineering, you may be interested. Still not interested? Fair enough, not many climbers are great fans of science, especially since that Newton bloke invented gravity.

To be serious for a moment (if at all possible), the event was hosted by The University of Leeds and supported by the BMC. The hope was that the conference would act as a focus to pull together all of the work that has and is being carried out in isolation around the globe. Delegates came from as far afield as Japan, Slovenia, Hong Kong and Lancashire! and the presentations covered as broad a spectrum as even the most free thinking liberal could imagine. My involvement was principally to present and defend my final year disserta- tion, which looked at capturing climbing motion using a computer based camera system in order to try and understand the mechanics of climbing. However, I gained a lot more from my time, and came away with a fresh outlook on both climbing and academia.

The first day centred around physiological and biomechanical presentations. We learned that the correct use of ski poles can reduce the joint reaction forces in the knee by up to 20%, and that an elite climber will keep their centre of gravity closer to the rock than a novice when clearing an overhang. Also, that a 5c slab climb will have similar energy expenditure demands as a 5c overhang, but that the cardiovas- cular and metabolic costs will be different, and how the movement of a belayer can reduce the impact force on a falling climber. In between presentations we had the opportunity to view case studies from the BMC’s Technical Committee. As an active climber I was both amazed and alarmed by what I saw. While not belonging to the ‘bury your head in the sand’ school of care, the sight of a snap link Karabiner snapped clean in two is enough to scare the socks off anybody. It kind of encourages a healthy paranoia.

Materials were the main focus of the second day, which started with an overview of the BMC’s Technical Com- mittee. Other presentations looked at Creatine supplements in rock climbers, finite element analysis of Krabs and the use of GPS. For me however, there were two highlights to the day. The first was a very informative presentation from Dr Dave Brook about the design and testing of climbing helmets. The second was by a member of the brilliantly titled ‘Ishioka Institute for Safety at High Places’. This presentation focused on the development of a device worn by the lead climber, that, in the event of a fall would pay out a pre-determined length of kevlar cord at a pre-determined resistance. At the end of the presentation, a lively crowd gathered and tried to fathom out what on earth this device was all about, eventually the more astute amongst us explained the principle, and we all went away very impressed. It is hoped that the conference will become biennial, and let's hope that by the year 2001 all parties concerned are working in closer har- mony and that those of us out on the real stuff start to feel the effects of this sharing of knowledge.

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21821_Summit15.p65 23 9/10/99, 2:37 PM CLIMB 99 CLIMB99 The weekend celebration of climbing Imagine actually climbing your dream route, and mountaineering you know, the one you sneak a look at in the guidebook occasionally, but dismiss for that legendary time of “when I am stronger”. But one day, instead of usually skulking past it, you decide to “It’s really a pretty daunting affair. We expect all actually climb it. You take a deep breath and sort out the gear, tighten the boots, have one last imploring look at the description, aspirants to have a solid grounding of at least hoping to find a previously hidden reference to “massive holds at Yorkshire HVS” Graham Desroy of White Trouser fame. half height, this route is low in the grade”, squeak the boots, and step on. But then a madman leaps out of the bushes screaming It's the cruellest sport of all says Jerry Moffatt, and “It’s not your turn yet”, and drags you off into a big white room he should know, after over 15 years of headpointing, yo-yoing, called isolation. Here you are forced to hang around for the rest of bike riding, snowboarding, redpointing, onsighting, and skate- boarding. You may initially disagree, and certainly gibbering leaders 30ft out from their last runner in the rain would perhaps squeal in protest before sliding off. But think about it, a year’s worth of training (a pretty gruelling thought in its own right) culminates in this one event, in those few minutes on the wall, where in front of the crowds and the cameras you have just one chance to show what you can do. The six minutes route-viewing, the hours of isolation in which to visual- ise the moves and calm the mind, being led out to behind the huge wall structure, the wait as another struggles in front of the crowd, you can hear the cheers but have no idea what is happening, and then they fall and it’s your turn. No room for error, no second chances, no team mates to look to, no place to hide. You don’t get to choose when you climb, there’s no coming back another day when you feel gravity is not so strong, and you can’t even step down to the ground again if you realise your shoelace is undone. Competition climbing is about pres- the day, kicking your heels and watching the other 150 aspirant sure. It’s also about power, ability and stamina, but principally climbers of your route outperform you on the warm up wall. about pressure. Even truly awe-inspiring climbers have buckled Finally you’re allowed out, the route is still there, but wait, your under the strain, and world-class muscles can revert to broccoli partner’s turned up to watch. And your mum. And your dad. And and balletic movement degenerate into farcical thuggery. all your friends and colleagues. Oh, and about 20,000 other people. Now climb it. "Having British routesetters could favour our local Sounds like a stressful nightmare? Then relax, unless you’re boys and girls, especially if they concentrate on one of the 10 lucky and talented British hopefuls selected this Graham Desroy year, competing at the World Championships is the last thing replicating dirty wet gritstone cracks” you’ve got to worry about. We’ve cunningly arranged 150 of the world’s best competition climbers to be there instead, let them get The World Championships, to be held at Birmingham in De- stressed, let them fall off, and watch them struggle. All you’ll have cember is a one off event, and the pressure is on. Everyone wants to worry about is which climber to watch next, what the latest to be the World Champion (don’t you…). The days of French stunning lecture’s about, and your rising visa bill as you hit the domination are over, and there is a renewed optimism in the air. concourse gear displays. So, sit back, relax, perhaps allow your- Youngsters are emerging with the kind of natural talent that makes self to think of that dream route for a moment, then let’s begin a us mortals green, more experienced team members are redoubling tour of the awesome Climb99 weekend celebration of climbing their efforts to keep ahead of the chasing pack, and others are and mountaineering. returning to competition climbing after a break from that relentless pressure, hoping they will have moved on faster than has the rest nd “Most UK climbers regard indoor competitions of the world. Adam Dewhurst, for example recently came 2 in the European Youth Cup in Bern, even more impressive when as secondary to the real thing. In fact in the you consider that he is the youngest in that age category. And just majority of cases indoor climbing comes a poor in case you’re wondering, for 16 yr old boys, the competition fifth after parties, music, and the opposite sex routes start at 8a!! have been included in the equation.”Graham Desroy STOP PRESS: Entre-Prises British Speed Climbing Championships to be held 24 at the Foundry on 23rd October. Come and have a go if you think you're BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 quick enough - Call the Foundry on 0114 279 6331.

21821_Summit15.p65 24 9/10/99, 2:47 PM Welcome to the awesome Entre-Prises 99 World Championship Wall. This towering monument to strength, stamina, and power will dominate CLIMB 99 the NIA Arena, providing world class climbing, and looking not unlike a large alien craft come to oversee the proceedings. Lets investigate it a bit further… Whole structure weighs 12t, and is suspended from the roof of the NIA by 15 1t cables. The wall is New Free Hand made panels assembled on the ground then with Resin system. An innova- hoisted up…. tive new Approach by Entre- Both Speed and Prises, and shaped like the bow Difficulty routes, of a boat. Why? So it can be with 12 options for sailed across the channel for a finishing. World Cup event off the coast 14 m high, 15 m of France. Well, almost. It's off overhanging. Giving to a nautically themed 350sq m a maximum route competition. 1500 Bolt on holds length of 22m

17 bolts per route, over 200 bolts The NIA roof has the capacity to and quickdraws on the wall rise or fall depending on rain/ 3 legs, not attached snow etc. The wall must be free to the floor hanging, and not fixed to the floor, otherwise if we had a white December, something rather dramatic would happen.! Profile Panel system.originally Built to the new bought by the BMC EU standard in 1994, reused in a new modular Takes 580 man configuration. hours to put together

The "Come and try it walls". This year there are no less than will be reading from his new book and Seb Grieve will be waxing five public "come and try it" walls. Four main walls, and an lyrical about Hard Grit. All the illustrated shows take place in the exciting free standing boulder, again all built by Entre-Prises. 350 seater Olympia suite. Capacity is limited but book in advance There will be a chance to try your hand at interestingly set boulder and you will be sent a full programme and registration form with problems and receive performance coaching from one of our ex- your Climb99 tickets. perts or try to reach the top of the first steps wall. The Adventure Zone makes a really fun day's activity for the family with speed Take time out to see the latest clothing and equipment on trials, blind fold climbing, abseiling and technique workshops offer from a range of well known manufacturers and retailers at supervised by National Mountain Centre, Plas y Brenin instruc- the Trade Show. New and discount products offer browsing and tors and members of AMI. Look out for the gripped? information bargain hunting opportunities for every gear addict. At Climb 97, stand and meet members of the British Competition Climbing the retail outlets proved very popular, so get there early to snap up Teams the bargains!

Come and try climbing on one of Development - The BMC is involved in some exciting projects the five walls! Photo Entre-Prises in the Birmingham area involving ethnic and cultural diversity. They will be based around the Ackers centre, The Rockface and the Pathway Centre for disaffected young women. Look out for details of the celebrities involved in the near future! Event tickets give access to all comps The MEF lecture pages following give an indication of and shows, check out what’s going to be on offer. The Mount Everest Foundation Lec- ture Series will be running throughout Saturday, hosted by Sir the bargain prices on Chris Bonington, and will feature landmark British Ascents in the the ad overleaf Greater ranges since Everest in 1953. From the good old days to modern desperate extremes such as Changabang.

Broaden your horizons and be inspired by some of the best speakers in the world of climbing and mountaineering. In addition to the MEF showcase, top rock climbers and mountaineers will present lectures from Friday to Sunday. The Friday series includes Alan Hinkes who will be describing his recent CLIMB Makalu ascent. On Sunday the line up turns to rock. Paul Pritchard 99 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 25

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MEF SPECIAL

afterafter EVERESTEVEREST PARTPART 11 OFOF AA PICTORIALPICTORIAL HISTORYHISTORY OFOF BRITISHBRITISH MOUNTAINEERINGMOUNTAINEERING ININ THETHE GREATERGREATER RANGESRANGES SINCESINCE 19531953 byby AndyAndy MacNaeMacNae

EverestEverest hadhad toto bebe climbedclimbed andand climbedclimbed itit waswas.. PerhapsPerhaps whenwhen comparedcompared toto somesome pre-warpre-war effortsefforts thethe siegesiege stylestyle ofof thethe expeditionexpedition waswas aa backwardbackward step,step, butbut nono oneone cancan denydeny itsits effectiveness.effectiveness. InIn thethe aftermathaftermath ofof thethe successsuccess significantsignificant rev-rev- enuesenues were generatedgenerated byby the the book book and and film. film. Fortunately Fortunately for forfu- futureture generations generations of ofmountaineers, mountaineers, in ain thoroughly a thoroughly altruistic altruistic ges- gesture,ture, this thismoney money was usedwas usedto set toup set and up fund and the fund Mount the EverestMount EverestFoundation. Foundation. TheThe Foundation was constitutedconstituted withwith a a stated stated aim aim of of supporting support- ingexploratory exploratory British British and andNew New Zealand Zealand Mountaineering, Mountaineering, and there and therecan be can no be question no question that it that succeeded. it succeeded. This support This support has made has mademany manyan expedition an expedition possible possible and most and most of today’s of today’s big bignames names would would ac- Five decades of MEF support will be celebrated on 4 Decem- acknowledgeknowledge that that their their first first expeditions expeditions would would have have been beenvery diffi-very ber at Climb99, where Chris Bonington will chair an all day difficult,cult, if not if notimpossible, impossible, without without MEF MEF support. support. In part In partone oneof this of session of talks and tall tales. Virtually all the expeditions thispictorial pictorial special special the Himalaya the Himalaya are covered, are covered, and in andthe next in the issue next of described in this article will be the subject of talks by the issueSummit, of Summit, it’s off to it’s the off big to walls the big and walls wild andflutings wild of flutings the Americas of the original participants. See page 33 for the line up so far. Americasplus a look plus at somea look key at somelightweight key lightweight exploratory exploratory expeditions expe- that ditionsthe MEF that has the been MEF so hassuccessful been so in successful promoting. in promoting.

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21821_Summit15.p65 27 9/13/99, 1:07 PM MEF SPECIAL

1955: Kangchenjunga (8586m) Probably the first major British expedition to follow Everest was the 1955 Kangchenjunga Expedition led by Charles Evans. This was heavily supported by the MEF and although in the style of the Everest 53 trip was a lightweight affair with limited expectations, a reconnais- sance in force as George Band described it. In many ways Kangchenjunga was a more formidable proposi- tion than Everest and indeed John Hunt said at the time; "‘there is no doubt that those who climb Kangchenjunga will achieve the greatest feat in mountaineering’". The expedition made surprisingly fast progress over complex ground and by 13 May the way to the top was open. George Band and Joe Brown were the summit team and became the only Britons to make the first ascent of an The South Face of Nupste. Photo: Bonington 8000m peak. They formed a contrasting but clearly effective partnership. Brown, the Manchester plumber, was the star of 1961: Nuptse South Face (7855m) the day with a string of state of the art alpine routes behind him. Important as a pointer toward the future. It was on Nuptse that Band had been the youngest member of the Everest 53 expedition the techniques that would prove so successful on Annapurna and and had been to Rakaposhi in 1954 and so at the tender age of 26 Everest were developed and Chris Bonington, then on his second already had a great depth of Himalayan experience. They reached expedition, learnt them well. At the time the route was the steepest the top at 2.45 on 25 May with Brown having climbed a challeng- yet attempted on one of the Himalayan giants and after several ing V.Diff crack just below the summit. weeks effort it was team leader Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi who first made the Summit. An attempt to repeat this route in 1975 by a British-Nepalese expedition ended in disaster with the deaths of three team members and a Sherpa. 1970: Annapurna (8091m) The Nepal Himalaya reopened in 1969 and Bonington was quick to book one of the really big objectives, the South Face of Annapurna. The climb involved much fixed rope and camps, but such was the difficulty of the climbing that the crack team was tested to the very limit. Don Whillans and Dougal Haston managed the Summit dash in poor weather which gave rise to the classic radio conversation-

Bonington: “Did you manage to get out today” Whillans: “Aye We’ve just climbed Annapurna”

Tragically Ian Clough, one of the very top climbers of the six- ties, was killed in the final stages of the expedition. Don Whillans moving up from camp 3, South Face of Annapurna. Photo: Bonington 1956: Muztagh Tower (7276m) This peak observed and named by Conway in 1892 was considered inaccessible until post second world war developments. Steep faces lead to the twin summits, 300 apart connected by a knife edge col. This was the scene of a really innovative lightweight trip done on a tight budget with key support from the MEF. John Hartog was the inspiration and Ian McNaught Davis the financial muscle behind the trip. The Tower was steeper and more technical Ian Clough than anything previously climbed in the Himalaya. The trip was traversing fixed ropes on the Ice plagued by logistical problems and last minute team changes but Ridge, South with McNaught Davis taking the ‘there is no problem that you Face, can’t solve if you hose enough money at it’ approach the problems Annapurna. went away and Joe Brown and Tom Patey were recruited to the Photo: team. The team opted to attempt the north west ridge. But soon Bonington after the British team got to work on the ridge, a French party led by Magnone arrived intent on attempting the south east ridge. This lent an urgency to proceedings and in due course McNaught Davis and Brown made the West Summit on 6 June with Hartog and Patey climbing the higher East Summit a couple of days later, but failing to get back to camp the same night, and Hartog suffered severely frostbitten feet. The French team also reached the East Summit on 12 June, but the second ascent of the West summit had to wait until 1982.

Previous page: Everest SW Face Photo: Yamada 28 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

21821_Summit15.p65 28 9/10/99, 2:57 PM Dougal Haston on the Ice Ridge above camp 4, South Face of Annapurna. MEF SPECIAL Photo: Bonington 1975: Everest 1974-97 Changabang (6864m) (8848m) During the descent from Dunagiri Tasker spied the west face of The British success on Changabang, a very steep granite peak first climbed by an In- Annapurna and the German dian-British team the year before. The first ascent team had in- ascent of the Rupal face of cluded Bonington, Scott, Haston, Boysen and four Indian climb- Nanga Parbat (a young tyke ers led by Balwant Sandhu, who had climbed a serious snow and called Reinhold Messner ice line from the south. Tasker returned in 1976 with Boardman made the summit) showed to make the first ascent of the face in two man capsule style. The that the siege style could route was rightly hailed as a milestone, and the most difficult work on the steepest faces Himalayan ascent of the day. of the Himalayan giants. At- Two years later the South Face was climbed over eight days by tention now shifted to the the super talented team of Kurtyka, Porter, McIntyre and Kritzof biggest challenge of the day, Zureck. The difficult upper section gave 1000m of great technical the South West face of Ev- difficulty with extreme aid and free climbing. erest. This was attempted in 1969, 70, 72 (twice) but to no avail. Bonington managed to book the peak for the post monsoon season of 1975 and secured massive financial support from Barclays. The ascent went like clockwork with Tut Braithwaite and Nick Estcourt finding a way through the previously impen- etrable Rock Band and Scott and Haston climbing to the Summit a few days later. The mountain however had a sting in its tail and weather closed in on the second summit team of Pete Boardman, Pertemba and Mick Burke. Burke was lagging behind and still short of the summit when the other two passed him on the way down. This was the last time he was seen, the weather worsened and Boardman and Pertemba, who waited for him as long as possible, barely made it back to camp as "all the winds of Asia" tried to tear them from the mountain. Steep ground on Changabang 97. Photo: Payne Due to political problems Changabang had to wait 14 years for another attempt after an Australian visit in 1982. Once again it was a British team and this time it was the steep North Face to be attempted. After an abortive attempt in 1996 (Roger Payne, Brendan Murphy, Julie Ann Clyma, Andy Perkins) Payne, Murphy, and Clyma returned in 1997 with Andy Cave, Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad, to make the first ascent in impeccable alpine style. Cave and Murphy made the summit with Fowler and Sustad reaching the summit ridge. Tragically Murphy was killed during an epic descent and all in all the summit group were out for a harrowing 16 days.

1977 The Ogre (7285m) Perhaps the most imposing of all the 7000m peaks, the Ogre was the ideal challenge for Doug Scott’s 1977 expedition. Scott

Dougal Haston on the summit of Everest 1975. Photo: Doug Scott.

1975 South West Face of Dunagiri (7066m) As Everest was being climbed in siege style a very different ascent was taking place in the Garhwal Himalaya. Dick Renshaw and Joe Tasker, two of the top young alpinists of the day, had driven all the way from Britain to attempt the technical South- west Face of Dunagiri. Their climb was in the best of Alpine style, a seven day ascent of this difficult 1500m high face, with a mixed crux at 6400m, and the descent lasting four more days. This was a tremendously committing climb and Ken Wilson, then editor of Mountain magazine, stated with typical hyperbole that the ascent was more significant than the Everest climb. What- ever the truth of Wilson’s statement this ascent was certainly a pointer to the future. Approaching the Ogre. Photo: Bonington

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and Bonington made the central summit, setting the scene for the famous epic descent, one of mountaineering’s classic tales. Shortly after beginning the ab- seils down Scott broke both his legs and Bonington shattered his ribs, and when they eventually reached the lower camps, it was a long wait for assistance to ar- rive. But perhaps the greatest trib- ute to the 1978 team is that despite some twenty attempts, the Ogre has still not succumbed to a second ascent.

High on the Ogre. Photo: Bonington 1978 Jannu (7710m) Jannu is one of the most spectacular of the big 7000ers. In 1978 Roger Baxter-Jones, Alan Rouse, Brian Hall and Rab Carrington attempted the east face and spent four days on it before retreating. After recharg- ing at base camp they made an ascent of the difficult 1962 French route in alpine style over four and a half days. This was one of the first alpine style as- The Golden Pillar of Spantik. Photo: Fowler cents of a far from technically straightforward route on a really big mountain, and showed what 1991 & 93 Cerro Kishtwar (6300m) was possible for a committed A peak that epitomises the dominant trend amongst British Jannu. Photo: Brian Hall and strong team. expeditions in the '90's-small, light and hard. In 1991 Perkins and Murphy spent 17 days on the desperate north face direct, grind- 1979 Kanchenjunga (8586m) ing to a halt only a couple of pitches from the top. A fine heroic failure (?). 1n 1979 Tasker and Boardman joined Scott and Georges 1993 saw Fowler and Sustad making the first ascent of the Bettembourg to attempt the North Side of Kangchenjunga. They peak via the obvious but diffucult north face ramp line. This was fixed rope on the steep lower section but climbed the upper part of Fowler's first success since Spantik and more was to follow with the mountain in a committing alpine style. After several attempts extreme routes on Tawache (1995 with Littlejohn) and Arwa Tasker, Boardman and Scott snatched success on a perfect summit Spire (1999, Sustad) as well as the aforementioned Changabang day. This ascent was at the very cutting edge and only rarely since epic in 1997. has a new route of such scale been climbed in such style. Certainly one of the greatest ascents in the Himalaya….ever.

1982 Sisha Pangma (8046m) Baxter-Jones, Alex Macintyre and Scott took the lightweight ethic to another level with their ascent of the south face of this 8000m giant. Although not in the same league of difficulty as Kangchenjunga, this was still a tremendously significant ascent. Later the same year McIntyre attempted an even bolder objective, an alpine style ascent of the south face of Annapurna, where he The north face of was tragically killed by the fall of a single stone. Cerro Kishtwar. Photo: Andy 1987 Spantik (7072m) MacNae In August 1903 Dr and Mrs Workman got to within 330m of the top, but unfortunately the MEF wasn’t around to support them. However, in 1987 it was. By the early eighties British expedition mountaineering was firmly focused on very lightweight ascents of difficult lines on 6000 and 7000m peaks, and the Golden Pillar of Spantik stood out as a line of the highest quality. Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders managed to claim this plum in 1987. The route took six days and involved climbing of the highest technical standard on steep mixed ground.

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CLUBS M2K Membership 2000

M2K will reduce the burden on club secretaries, already overworked? New services and benefits for club members So how does it work? In 1997 the Membership Review recommended that the BMC Clubs will be asked if they want to be involved. The system is work toward a complete database of all club members. It was felt completely optional but it is hoped that most clubs will want to that this would enable the BMC to provide an improved range of make the most out of their BMC membership. When a club opts in services and to communicate better with club members. With Jan it will be asked to submit a membership list, if possible in elec- 2000 as the target date for having a new system in place this seems tronic form. When the club has an existing database the BMC will like a good time to update the clubs on progress, and to look at supply software to the club to help make that data compatible with how your club can benefit from the new system. the BMC database. The software will also help club secretaries check their data for errors and so improve club mailings. If the What is Membership 2000? club has a computer but no database the BMC will help the club to Membership 2000 is an initiative designed by the BMC to de- establish one. If the club has no computer then the BMC will take velop a database of the BMC’s club members. This database will a paper submission and incorporate this into the Membership 2000 allow the BMC to communicate much better with club members database. and keep then informed of key issues. It opens the way for the How often do we submit this list? BMC to offer a wider range of benefits to club members, and At least once a year, preferably in January. Updates depend on makes it possible for members with multiple affiliations to claim the rate at which new members join. For most clubs it would make refunds. In short Membership 2000 aims to give club members sense to send an update prior to each mailing of Summit magazine better value for money. What’s in it for the club members? Is this just going to make more work for the All club members on the database will be mailed Summit free. club secretary? Members on the database gain easy access to discounted services. The new system is designed to make things easier for club Members who belong to more than one affiliated club would be secretaries, this is a key element of the system. A system which able to claim a refund for their multiple affiliation. increased the burden on club secretaries would be unacceptable. Is this going to mean a big increase in club fees? No. The fees for 2000 are already set and have only increased in line with inflation. WIN A DEAL THAT ALLOWS What if we don’t want to get involved? YOU TO BE IN THE HIGHLANDS The process is entirely optional. If a club does not want to submit its members details or if a member does not want their details submit- WITHIN AN EVENING ted that’s fine and current benefits won’t be affected. If we give our address details are we just going to be bombarded with junk mail? The BMC is aware of clubs’ concerns regarding junk mail. The BMC will not allow any other body access to the club database and will only send agreed mailings to club members. (Four Sum- mits per year and AGM papers). What about the data protection act? On offer The BMC is registered under the data protection act and com- are 2 places on plies fully with its rules and regulations. Mountain Innovations' Is this just a cunning way of checking that we package of accommodation,, are paying the right fee? meals (no(no restrictiverestrictive times),times), It is understood that membership of a club can change from and car hire fromfrom anyany mainlandmainland month to month and that the number of names sent in to the data- Scottish airport or train station. base may differ from the number paid for when the club renews membership. The Membership 2000 return will not be used to All tailored around the hillgoer's check against what the club paid for membership, and all club needs and all designed to maximise members will remain insured. For 2000 the normal membership thethe opportunityopportunity onon thethe hill.hill. renewal system will remain unchanged. Ok we’re interested, what happens now? TO WIN ANSWER THE FOLLOWING: For the mailing of issues 15 and 16 of Summit magazine the 1.What is the name of the Munro that forms the highest point on Torridon's BMC will be trialing the system with those clubs who already Liathach? receive Summit by direct mailing plus a small number of clubs 2.What do the letters C.I.C. stand for with respect to the hut below Ben Nevis' N.E. face? who don’t. If you receive Summit for the first time then we hope you enjoy it and thanks for taking part in the trial. This trial will 3.What is the name of the winter route which is based on the line of the climb The Magic Crack (as featured in the TV series "The Edge")? allow the membership team to iron out any problems and be ready for Jan 2000 when we hope more clubs will come on board. In ANSWERS ON A POSTCARD OR SEALED ENVELOPE TO: October all clubs will be sent a questionnaire which will ask who MOUNTAIN INNOVATIONS, FRAOCH LODGE, DESHAR wants to be involved and what system would be appropriate for ROAD, BOAT OF GARTEN, INVERNESS-SHIRE, PH24 3BN. their data submission.

32 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

21821_Summit15.p65 32 9/10/99, 3:06 PM BRIEFINGFORUM KENDAL FILM FESTIVAL CLIMB 15-17 October 99 The Kendal Film Festival is set to be a major event with The Speakers so far (look out for more in Summit 16) a stunning line up of speakers and shows. On the Satur- Friday day, as part of the festival, the BMC will be hosting a Louise Thomas: Big Walls major debate focusing on guidebooks and future devel- Alan Hinkes: Makalu and challange 8000 opments. All major guidebook producers will be present Saturday and this will be a unique chance for the climbing public to George Band: Everest and Kanchenjunga make their views known. So how do you like your Ian: McNaught Davis: Mustag Tower guides? Topo or definitive? Fat or thin? Lots of photos or Derek Walker: Paine not bothered? Grades? Stars? And what about the future? Chris Bonington: Annapurna South Face Do we want to see web guides? Do we want them on CD? Tut Braithwaite: Everest SW Face Come along to the debate and have a say in the next gen- Stephen Venables: Himalaya lightweight eration of guides. For a bit of added interest the session John Porter: Changabang will kick of with an appreciation of the history of climbing Doug Scott: Kanchenjunga '79 Rab Carrington: in the Peak by Geoff Milburn and an update on the scene Rab Carrington: The super trip Brian Hall: Jannu today by a leading activist. Brian Hall: Mick Fowler: Talliraju All in all the festival should be quite an event with film Mick Fowler: Paul Pritchard: Paine shows, lectures, exhibitions and trade shows. For ticket Louise Thomas: Baffin information call 01539 725758, fax 01539 734457, email Julie Ann Clyma: India [email protected] or see the website at Andy Cave: Changabang www.mountainfilm.co.uk. Sunday new: BMC Performance Training Lindsay Griffin: The mongolia epic Handbook Seb Grieve: Hard Grit A new handbook designed for rec- Martin Price: The mountain environment reational climbers who want to get Paul Pritchard: Book reading better. Includes chapters on training All the illustrated shows take place in the 350 seater Olympia suite and entry (mental and physical), planning, nu- will be on a first come basis. The shows will be divided into 12 seperate slots trition, leadins and putting it all to- and so everyone at Climb99 will get to see plenty of top speakers. gether. The booklet cost only £4.50 See the ad on page 26 for Climb99 ticket details (£6.50 non members) and should be available by 1 October. John Streetly on the central tower of Paine. Photo Bonington

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21821_Summit15.p65 33 9/10/99, 3:08 PM FORUM Climbers, walkers and the military Striking the balance

The interaction between climbers, walkers and the military is a hot topic during the summer. Susanna Perkins takes a look at this complex issue.

This is the time of year when climbers perform a mystic ritual to obtain a much-coveted permit to climb at Range West, and hill walkers recall that certain je ne sais quoi that low flying jets add to the peace of the mountains. And the inevitable question is raised – is The mystic ritual to obtain a much-coveted Range West permit? the BMC putting enough pressure on the MoD to Photos: Richard Jones & Dave Turnball accommodate climbers’ and walkers’ needs? Forum takes a look support helicopter plays a crucial role, for which the Apache at some issues and finds, as usual, that the arguments are as com- helicopter will enter service shortly. There will also be a new plex as the solutions are elusive. generation of much longer range and heavier weapons. Since 1990, defence expenditure has fallen by some 23% in real terms and the Forces have been cut by nearly a third. However, Mission briefing over the last eight years many more British troops have been on Right, listen up. Many of our finest landscapes were designated active operations at any one time than during the Cold War. It is as National Parks in the 1950s, and the MoD is established in predicted that there will be a shortfall in the land available to meet most upland Parks. Dartmoor, for example, has been used by the training requirements. military as a training ground since the 1870s. The conservation value of MoD land is outstanding, including over 250 Sites of What does this mean in practice? Special Scientific Interest. The MoD acknowledges that this is These changes potentially present new threats to climbing and largely attributed to management which has protected the land walking interests. Firstly, three regiments of Apache helicopters from the intensive farming and urban development which have are expected to come into service in 2000. Apaches are low flying decimated much of our countryside. Lack of public access to attack helicopters, intended to hover for protracted periods at very MoD land has had relatively little to do with its present conserva- low levels. The disruption they cause could be considerable. Sec- tion value. ondly, there will be greater use of ‘smart’ ammunitions for gun The primary objective of National Parks is “preserving and en- and rocket artillery. Training with these will need large safety hancing the natural beauty … for the purpose of promoting their areas and may affect the extent to which public access is permitted enjoyment by the public”. Why, then, is an activity still permitted on ranges. Weapons are already increasingly fired from the edge which was described in 1977 in an official inquiry into military of ranges. It is interesting to speculate what will happen when the training as “dangerous, damaging, intimidating and obtrusive”? range of these weapons exceeds the expanse of UK training Despite running an estate of some 300,000 ha, the MoD has no grounds. single cohesive strategy for managing its land. As part of the Strategic Defence Review in 1998 the MoD made a commitment to draw up a strategy for its rural estate, to guide estate managers Target in sight: Castlemartin on the ground and those who dictate the amount and type of train- Castlemartin has been used for training tank crews since 1938, ing undertaken. One of the key themes of this Rural Estate Strat- the 6,400 acres of firing ranges facing the sea to provide a safety egy is public access. In January 1999 the MoD set up a Contact zone. The area is also of international importance for endangered Group with a small number of key recreational and conservation sea birds, and of course climbing. The MoD owns the land, organisations to develop this Strategy. specifying the following priority in land management: Firstly the Service requirement for the use of the land, including safety, then End of the Cold War agricultural, forestry, conservation and environmental require- With the ending of the Cold War the requirements of the Armed ments, and finally at the bottom, public access. Forces changed. The emphasis has shifted away from territorial So, the MoD must satisfy conservation requirements before defence against the threat of attack on the UK and towards interac- considering public access. Commenting on her article in the tion in crises further away. Over the next 20 years the risks to August edition of High, Emma Alsford added: “The MoD, while international stability are likely to come less from ‘nation states’ being the dominant land user and making ultimate decisions with and more from other factors - ethnic and religious conflict; popu- respect to access, are under much pressure to follow the recom- lation and environmental pressures; drugs and crime. The new- mendations of the conservation bodies…. In Range East there are style threats require a different form of military response. The twice as many restrictions today during the bird nesting season MoD is developing ‘Joint Rapid Reaction Forces’ drawn from all than there were in 1981, and spring and summer access for climb- three Services which will be trained to respond quickly and effec- ing in Range West has been stopped altogether. The MoD have tively to emergencies. These will need new forms of backup. The already openly stated that they have no problem with spring and

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LOW FLYING FACTS • Low flying can occur anywhere in the UK but must avoid the larger centres of population. • Low flying can be an aircraft’s only defence against increasingly sophisticated air defence systems. • Fast jets are limited to a ‘Minimum Separation Distance’ of 250 ft and speeds below 517 mph. They would fly much lower and faster on operational sorties. • Operational Low Flying (OLF) occurs where aircraft fly down to 100 ft in specially designated areas. •OLF is planned well in advance and can be publicised. This is not • Low flying aircraft participate in practicable for routine low flying peace keeping and humanitarian sorties, many of which take place relief operations worldwide and at short notice to account for military Search and Rescue missions weather conditions. in the UK. For over 1,200 people last year a low flying SAR helicop- • Most low flying is carried out on ter was a very welcome sight. weekdays. Some non-jet activity in support of reserve forces is (details supplied by Squadron Leader permitted at weekends. Tom Rounds, MoD Whitehall).

Hill walkers recall this certain je ne sais quoi that low flying jets add to the peace of the mountains. Photo: MOD

summer access for climbers in Range West so long as the conser- enjoyment” and not as overflow military training grounds? The vation bodies agree to it.” So where does the problem lie - with the Snowdonia National Park Authority are rightly concerned about MoD or the conservation bodies? And will the changing structure the impact of cars on the area, but I know many people feel that of the Forces also affect access? Today, 44 ‘firing weeks’ are disturbance from low flying is far greater and interferes with their permitted per year. Detail on future deployments is at best sketchy, enjoyment of the mountains far more than a couple of hundred but it appears that new artillery has and will continue to be fired, parked cars on the valley floor.". END and the Apache is likely to train at Castlemartin. An MoD spokes- man commented that it was “unlikely” that access for climbing would be affected. Apache threats? It seems that to increase access at Castlemartin requires the bal- The MoD claims that since 1988 the number of sorties flown at ance between conservation and access to be addressed. If this is low level has been reduced by a third and those by jet aircraft by dictated by MoD policy, then is it to Whitehall that representations well over half. In future, however, the MoD admits that the must be made? And is training going to change in the future? volume of low flying throughout the UK as a whole is unlikely to change significantly. And what of the Apache - will this pose a Surface to Air: Low Flying significant threat to “quiet enjoyment” in our countryside? Many of us have landed at runways in mountainous areas and Debriefing are familiar with the sensation of ‘falling through’ the scenery. Much can be done these days to train pilots using simulators but The whole scenario is changing. The current pattern of training there is no substitute for the real thing. Knowing that a fraction- land is a reflection of historical acquisition rather than the needs of ally wrong move may cost you your life - and the defence budget training for modern warfare. Furthermore, we now place consid- over £20 million of aircraft – tends to focus the mind (another erable value on upland areas for quiet recreation – and quietness is sensation familiar to climbers). But no-one can deny the impact a commodity which is increasingly difficult to find. And, perhaps this training has on the countryside. most significantly, we now have a Government with a commitment to increase public access and enjoyment of the countryside. Ground Zero with Elfyn Jones Lasting benefits are achieved by changing strategic thinking rather than trying to influence the incidents which arise from it. BEGIN TRANSMISSION: "I‘m sure it‘s quite an amazing For too many years the MoD have kept their doors closed to feeling flying low through the valleys of Snowdonia at 500mph, consultation - and lack of openness leads to lack of confidence but having lived and worked in the Ogwen Valley for the last 10 that we are getting a fair deal. There is currently a unique oppor- years the sight and especially the sound of thirty or more fast jets tunity for discussion with the policy chiefs where the BMC could per day flying at little more than roof top height is irritating. At deploy one of our most effective weapons - a reputation for a least the fast noisy jets are through quickly. More irritating is the balanced and practical approach. constant buzzing of small helicopters - a favourite trick seems to We could also heed the advice of Kofi Annan, UN Secretary be circling the summit of Tryfan which is great fun unless you General, who said “You can do a lot with diplomacy but, of happen to be climbing it at the time. Having assisted in several course, you can do a lot more with diplomacy backed up with Mountain Rescues and witnessed the incredible skills of the heli- firmness and force”. copter pilots at first hand I am more than aware of the necessity for realistic training - but surely National Parks were set up for “quiet

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INTERNATIONAL Killing Sport?

Bolting is not always bad. Reasonable bolting on Zinal Rothorn N. Ridge, Valais. First climbed in the 1800's in one day, a landmark alpine Le Ticket, Peigne Slabs, Chamonix. Photo: Payne. achievement. Now bolted! Photo: Payne.

Something disturbing is afoot in the Alpine regions. UIAA BOLTING RECOMMENDATIONS Classic rock routes are suffering the onslaught of power drill, and it could change the face of Alpine climbing for good. There Redevelopment measures should be limited to a selection of fre- are strongly held views on this subject and without a clear con- quently climbed routes. sensus between climbers and mountaineers worldwide, other Certain alpine areas, mountains, or parts of mountains should be bodies might impose regulations on our activities. excluded from redevelopment measures in order to retain their This consulation document was adopted by the UIAA Moun- original character. Rock climbing routes that represent particular milestones in alpine taineering Commission in March 1999, Trieste, Italy, and has history (e.g. North Face of the Eiger) must be left in their original been produced by the German and Austrian Alpine Clubs in state. This principle also applies to rock climbing routes with local response to questions from national mountaineering federations significance. for guidance about the use of fixed equipment. Individual climb- A basic principle of the redevelopment of rock climbing routes is ers and clubs are invited to comment on the Consultation Docu- that the character of the route remains intact: ment, and consider giving their commitment and support to the The line of the first ascent is not to be altered. principles outlined within the paper by 31 October 1999. Send Routes and single pitches done ‘clean’ on the first ascent (using in your views to Roger Payne at the BMC office. only nuts, friends, threads, etc.) should not be retrobolted. No bolts will be placed on sections of routes that may be done clean by climbers of the grade of the route. In the evolution of climbing in low mountain Runouts may not be neutralised by additional bolts. "ranges as well as in the lower areas of the high ranges, many The difficulty of a route should not be altered through redevelop- climbers have developed a liking for well-protected sport climbs ment measures. Aid passages left by first ascensionists should be or fun routes. A large number of alpine climbers prefer having aidable after redevelopment. The amount of permanent protec- good bolts on the pitches and on belays on popular rock climbing tion in a redeveloped route should be less than the original number routes. Also many climbers who frequent the mountains are inter- of pieces. For example, several regular pitons can be replaced by a single bolt. ested in retaining the original character of rock climbing routes For all redevelopment measures, only material that fits European and areas. They prefer to do without bolts, either partially or and UIAA standards should be used. The redevelopment is to be entirely. The extent and quality of the equipment of a rock climb- carried out at recognised standards. ing route with fixed protection is an effective instrument for influ- A route should not be subject to redevelopment against the will of encing its popularity: well-protected the first ascensionist. routes are done more frequently than The valid mode of the redevelopment in a climbing area is defined poorly protected ones. Thus, in eco- – on the basis of these recommendations – by locally knowledge- logically sensitive areas permanent able climbers together with the local climbing groups, if necessary, in co-operation with the responsible authorities. Decision making protection should be reduced to a power on the local level guarantees every area its own independent minimum. On the other hand, in character. less sensitive areas possibilities for The activities of the local stewardship organisations will be co- climbing activity for a greater ordinated by a supra-regional committee in order to guarantee the number can be created by the devel- horizontal and vertical flow of information and to ensure a high opment of well protected rock climb- quality of stewardship. ing routes. Climbing areas developed In alpine regions, first ascents are to be done exclusively on lead along these guidelines pose no threat In the areas excluded from redevelopment measures, bolts should be limited to an absolute minimum, otherwise it is up to every first to the natural environment . A plural- ascensionist to set the standard of protection on his/her own route. ism of the various climbing styles is There should be no detraction from the independent character of desirable and is welcomed as an ex- adjacent routes. pression of the legitimate individual Special sport climbing areas can be established – in so far as this can preference of climbers. To permit this be done in an ecologically sound fashion and without obstructing kind of pluralism the following rec- other existing climbing areas. These measures need to be approved ommendations are made: " by the stewardship organisation responsible for that area

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 37

21821_Summit15.p65 37 9/10/99, 3:10 PM A NEW video and booklet from the BMC ARENA

The Management meeting A summary of the Management Committee meeting 30 June

This was the first Management meeting for incoming Presi- dent Derek Walker and new Vice Presidents Crag Jones and Cathy Woodhead. The meeting kicked off with the following being reported: • Sport England has offered an increase of £15,000 in grant support. • Ian McMorrin was confirmed as new Chair of the Access & Conservation Committee • Bob Pettigrew has been appointed as the first Presi- dent of the UIAA Access and Conservation Com- mission.

The meeting next focused on an evaluation of the 1999 Annual Gathering. The following areas were discussed: • The Snowdonia traffic debate had been highly successful in raising public concern about the scheme. Planners were forced to think again, and as a result the Park approached the BMC to support an en- hanced Sherpa Bus service. This support was agreed. • Progress on AGM resolutions was reported and in particular Membership 2000 developments were discussed. • Points raised at the National Open Forum were discussed and progress reported. • A date for the 2000 Annual Gathering was agreed. This will be 8 April and it will be held in Ilkley.

Another key area of discussion was the relationship be- In Partnership With: tween the various mountaineering bodies of UK and Ire- BMC land. Closer and mutually supportive links were discussed and progress in this area was welcomed.

EXPERIENCE ERROR - WITHOUT TERROR The meeting also heard updates on the following: Climbing Rock is designed to help you recognise the common • The possible purchase of Stone Farm Rocks by the errors and inefficiencies in your climbing.This entertaining BMC (this was endorsed). video comes complete with a Technical Booklet which helps • The Southern Sandstone draft Code of Conduct. you identify problem areas and make progress to achieve your potential. • Access Legislation and the new National Access Forum. • The UIAA Entre-Prises World Championships and Marlow,Animal, Berghaus Climb 99 • The UIAA Council meeting, attended by George Band. • The Stanage Bus, which has now gained support from Patagonia.

✃ Finally the committee heard a report on a belaying incident during the regional BRYCS event. The committee was sat- Please send me copies of the NEW Climbing Rock video and booklet at isfied that all the right steps and procedures had been fol- £15 (non members) £12.50 (Members). lowed but endorsed a review of competition belaying prac- tices and the setting up of a small advisory group to draft I enclose a cheque for £ ...... payable to British Mountaineering Council. guidance notes. Please debit my Access/Visa account, Card number: Oread 50th Anniversary Card expiry date: / The Oread club is to publish a special 50th anniversary journal. It will be available from 1 November and will cost BMC membership number: £15. For further information contact Harry Pretty, 16 Pond Name: ...... Road, Holbrook, Belper, Derbyshire, DE56 0TX. Address: ...... Postcode: ...... Daytime tel no: ...... Send38 to: BMC, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 Tel: 0161 445 4747 Fax: 0161 445 4500

21821_Summit15.p65 38 9/10/99, 3:12 PM Area meeting calendar COURSE FISHING

Representation MADE The BMC has a democratic area structure in England and Wales representing over 46,000 members and encourages members to express their views either directly to the office or at BMC Area meetings. Jointly with the Mountaineering Council of Ireland and SIMPLE. Mountaineering Council of Scotland the BMC works to represent the views of members nationally and internationally. The BMC is If you’re angling to go on an outdoor course in the next year, a national governing body of sport recognised by Government cast your eyes over the new Plas y Brenin 2000 brochure. It’s and the various countryside agencies and sports councils in the United Kingdom. The BMC’s development programmes such as swimming with weekend and five day breaks in everything expeditions and competition climbing are supported by UK Sport from climbing, mountaineering and hillwalking, to and Sport England. The BMC encourages its members to adopt a positive approach to equal opportunities and the elimination of kayaking, skiing and orienteering. discrimination. The BMC values the support of all sections of the You’ll find it’s incredibly easy to identify the right course mountaineering community and welcomes the opportunity to assist all groups in its work to promote the interests of climbers, hill for you too. The descriptions are easy to follow, written in walkers and mountaineers. plain English and, thanks to the colour coded 40-page

layout, effortless to find.

If that’s not simple enough, you could always try the net –

our complete course listing is also featured, in an equally

uncomplicated style, on our website.

And when you book on your first course at Plas Y Brenin,

you’ll be hooked. In fact, most people are so impressed

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To top it all we’re giving away this whopper of a brochure for

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Fill in the coupon below, or call 01690 720214 for a free copy.

Please send me the 2000 Plas y Brenin Brochure.

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S/OCT Postcode PLAS Y BRENIN National Mountain Centre Canolfan Fynydd Genedlaethol Capel Curig Gwynedd LL24 OET Telephone 01690 720214 Facsimile 01690 720394

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15 39

21821_Summit15.p65 39 9/10/99, 4:11 PM MLTB Harmonisation of the Mountain Leader scheme

What is a ‘Harmonised’ Mountain Leader? Well it’s nothing to ing, candidates will have to log 20 mountain day do with leaders of groups singing in the mountains! The MLTB, walks. This new requirement ensures that all candi- NIMTB, SMLTB and WMLTB all train and assess candidates for dates on a training course have a minimum level of the Mountain Leader Award. The award qualifies hillwalkers to walking experience to enable everyone to gain the lead groups in the mountains of the UK and Ireland. There has most from their course. always been recognition of the award by each Board and candidates The logbook has changed to allow candidates to are able to register with one Board, train with another and be as- record their personal hill walking experience and sessed by a third. This worked well in principle but there have been group supervising experience at all stages of the occasional problems because the registration process and some of scheme. The logbook also contains a skills check- the syllabus content and interpretation differed from Board to Board. list and a personal ‘Action Planner’ to assist candi- Therefore UKMTB (the co-ordinating body for mountain training dates in evaluating progression from training to as- in the UK), has worked towards the harmonisation of the prospec- sessment. It will not be necessary for candidates ML holder Mike Barker tus, syllabus and guidance notes of the Mountain Leader scheme. who are already registered to update their pages. investigates harmonisation This process is now complete and the new scheme is in operation However, candidates can obtain a new set from the further. with each of the home nation Training Boards as from Sept 1st MLTB Snowdonia office, price £2.50. The ML 1999. syllabus and training course have not changed substantially from that currently in place. The scheme is constantly evolving and course What do these changes mean for candidates progressing Providers attend regular training workshops to keep them up-to- through the scheme and for existing award holders? date with current thinking. Candidates who completed a training The short answer is ‘very little’ and no one will be disadvantaged course more than 5 years ago are still advised to attend a refresher during the transition to the harmonised scheme.Candidates who course. Details of such courses can be obtained from your Training have already attended training courses will continue to progress Board. through the scheme as before. The content and standard of assess- A significant change is that there is no longer a mandatory twelve- ment courses has not changed, but some of the accompanying lit- month consolidation period between training and assessment. Can- erature has been re-written. Candidates who wish to obtain a copy didates matching the pre-assessment requirements can move from of the new ML Handbook, comprising the Prospectus, Syllabus training to assessment at a pace that suits their level of experience. and Guidance Notes for Candidates, Trainers and Assessors in one Following assessment award holders will continue to log their cur- document, should contact the Training Board with which they are rent experience as a way of proving to employers and voluntary registered. Please enclose a cheque for £3.50 made payable to the organisations that they are active in the mountains. appropriate Board. So the message is simple. The new harmonised scheme re- For candidates about to register on the scheme the pre-requisite of moves the differences that existed and we are all now work- 12 months’ hill walking experience and an interest in leading groups ing to an agreed model. in the mountains has not changed. However, before attending train- BMC insurance Unbeatable value, BMC for cover you can trust… The new BMC Travel & Activity Insurance Guide ● Sun Trek – low cost options for hill walking and trekking ● Sun Rock – popular climbing cover ● Sun Ski & Climb – comprehensive cover for mountaineering and winter sports ● Sun Peak – competitive premiums for ascents in the Greater Ranges

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Please send me a copy of the new BMC Insurance Guide travel & activity insurance guide Name ...... 1999 · 2000 Address ......

...... Return to: British Mountaineering Council, Postcode ...... 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB Alternatively request your copy by phone, fax or email: Daytime telephone number ...... Tel:0161 445 4747 Fax: 0161 445 4500 Email: [email protected]

40 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

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LAST THOUGHTS

UNICEF AT THE FOOT OF MOUNT KENYA

Driving through Kenya’s lush Central Province you find yourself in a country full of sweeping green valleys, living streams and fertile hills. Your goal, Mount Kenya, looms in the distance. Compared to the squalor and obvious deprivation seen by visitors arriving in Nairobi, this mystically beautiful countryside at the foot of Mount Kenya appears a welcome contrast.

Yet as is so often the case, things But many young Kenyans do not go are not all they seem. Look a bit closer to school - either they have dropped as you drive through the area known as out or they never enrolled. Those on Nyeri, which lies below Mount Kenya, the streets of Nyeri, for example, can- and you will notice children living not afford to go to school - the money rough on the street. Usually boys, they they earn living on the streets has Solidarity Boys' gang, scrape together a meagre living by wash- become too valuable, and buying a who hang out on a ing car windows, begging or working school uniform is out of the ques- rubbish dump, sniffing in the markets. Some of them have shel- tion. Friends at centre for street glue, and picking ter for the night, but others sleep where children. Photo: Pirozzi/Panos through the rubbish for anything saleable. they drop at the end of the day - on the UNICEF is working through bar tenders and DJs in or- Photo: Hughes/Panos streets. der to reach the young generation who do not go to school, These influential members of the community, who often command the These street children are the visible face of the HIV/AIDS respect of children and teenagers, are playing a crucial role in horror which is sweeping across great swathes of sub-Saharan breaking the conspiracy of silence and educating their peers. Africa. Kenya’s own problem is not the worst in Africa, but with an estimated 1.5 million people infected with HIV - 90,000 of Tragically HIV/AIDS is undoing much of the progress made whom are children - the situation is as deadly as it could be. With in terms of child survival, growth and development in Kenya. It is whole generations of breadwinners being wiped out the impact on an emergency that is going to last for many years, leaving millions children is huge. If they are lucky a relative will take them in; if of children orphaned, destitute, often even infected themselves. they are not so lucky they will have to fend for themselves. But The awesome beauty of Kenya’s landscape, which has attracted even if they are given somewhere to sleep, the money they can admirers from abroad for hundreds of years, hides a bitter reality. earn on the streets might be the sole source of income for that These children may remain unseen by visitors, but with your help family. and support we can make sure that they have the chance of a better future. While it is not new to see children working on the streets in big cities like Nairobi, this is a relatively recent phenomenon in HOW YOU CAN SUPPORT UNICEF’S GROWING rural Nyeri. Because it is on the transport route in and out of UP ALONE CAMPAIGN Uganda, the HIV virus is spread by truckers who stop for the night. Alternatively, men who go to the cities to find work have If you and your Family have ambitions for this winter, casual sex, become infected and then bring it back home. Now be it on crags, indoor climbing walls or mountains why Nyeri is one of the worst hit areas of Kenya and there are many not make it a sponsored activity and help to raise ur- youngsters living and working on the streets - a result of their gently needed funds for children growing up alone. parents or guardians growing ill or dying. While there are many organisations and individuals trying to Just £4.70p can change a child’s life forever. With cope with this killer, dealing with such an unimaginably large £287.00 UNICEF can provide education kits with suf- problem requires a massive coherent effort. UNICEF, the United ficient materials to teach 60 children, living alone in Nations Children’s Fund, has been asked by the Government of sub- Saharan Africa. Providing an education that can Kenya to coordinate responses to the HIV/AIDS crisis - to estab- literally mean the difference between life and death. If lish guidelines and take a lead role. you would like further details please contact the regional officer in your area who will be able to provide UNICEF’s information officer in Kenya, you with a specially prepared fundraising pack. Julia Spry-Leverton, says: “We have to prioritise what we can do, and we have identified four areas which need our most urgent North East Sandra Howarth 01904 491965 attention. They are: breaking the ‘Conspiracy of Silence’ on HIV/ North West Kim Bohajczuk 01614 832147 AIDS at all levels; to prevent children from becoming infected, by working through schools and outside the education system; pre- Midlands Linda McCaughey 01952 590091 venting mothers infecting their children; and finally the care and London Diana Hawkins 01268 792292 support of children affected by HIV/AIDS, including those who East Caroline Graham 01733 765444 have become orphaned.” Wales Richard Jones 01222 228549 With more than half of the population of Kenya under the age of South East Edward Carwardine 01424 220956 20, informing and influencing this section of the community is South West Chris Evans 01980 621287 imperative in the fight against AIDS. Schools and teachers are Scotland Anne Forrester 01414 221662 already being used to spread prevention messages, and to offer N. Ireland Jan Beaumont 01247 884335 counselling and support to those who are already affected by HIV.

48 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 15

21821_Summit15.p65 48 9/10/99, 3:26 PM P U B L I S H I N G MOUNTAIN LIBRARY

Souvenirs From High Big Walls by Paul Piana. Places by Joe Bensen. Thailand Rock Climbing Large format book with £17.99(£3.50). £14.99 (£1.25) outstanding photos and text. £22(£3.50)

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Rock Climbing in Australia. Fantastic large format photo guide to Australian crags by Touching the Void by Simon Carter Joe Simpson. Doug Scott: Himalayan £29.99(£3.50) £11.95(£2.50) Climber £14.99(£3.50) Peak Bouldering - Costa Daurada (Rock Fax10) Rockfax #09. £15(£1.25) £13.95 (£1.25)

Highland Outcrops of Scotland. £14.95(£2.50) The Peak: Past and Present by Gordon A History of Mountain... Deep Play by Paul Stainforth £25(£4.00) Ice World by Jeff Lowe £45(£3.50). Large format. Pritchard £16.99(£2.50) £19.95(£3.50)

World Mountaineering: Text, info & photos of World’s greatest Mount McKinley. mountains. Large Format. Mont Blanc Massif: Chris Bonington: Bradford Washburn Edited by Audrey Salkeld The 100 Finest Routes. Rock Stars/Heinz Zak Mountaineer £14.99(£3.50) photography. £38(£3.50) £35(£5.00) £25(£3.50) £14.95(£3.50) FOR OUR MAIL ORDER SERVICE TEL:01536 382500 OR FAX: 01536 382501 * FIGURE IN BRACKETS DENOTES POSTAGE COST WITHIN UK ONLY *

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