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WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDiTORIAL Welcome Ramadan! EDITOR Dilek Koç MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı İstanbul offers an endless choice of concerts and shopping this July, along with open- Contributing editor Emma Levine air dining, music and dance on high terraces with stunning views of the city. All these, englısh edıtorıal dırector Bob Beer along with the special Ramadan activities during this special fasting month, makes DesignerS Tijen Tezel, Yasemin Şahin İstanbul an extra-fascinating destination this month. Throughout the city, top hotels contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal deputy edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı and restaurants are offering a wealth of activities for Iftar, the sundown meal that oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr breaks the Ramadan fast each day for a month. photo edıtor Sami Atalan During the month, the city’s galleries continue to host fine exhibitions. The Stephen consultant Aynur Koç responsıble edıtor Aslı Koç Chambers and Andy Warhol shows are still at the Pera Museum (p. 21); İstanbul ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Modern presents a collection of photographs documenting Turkish communal life, SALES DIRECTOR Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya and Rampa hosts This Secret World That Exists Right There In Public (p. 21). Check the [email protected] Galleries page and discover your own favourite. busıness development & marketıng marketing dırEctor Mahmut Bölükbaş This month’s entertainment line-up includes a great choice of indoor and outdoor [email protected] concerts, including the 21st İstanbul Jazz Festival and performances by music legends Evren Satır [email protected] Metallica, Neil Young (p. 23), Chick Corea, Katie Melua (p. 24), and Buika & Pink Martini productıon (p. 22). productıon manager Aybüke Kevser assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak Restaurants like Mangerie, Vogue and Le Fumoir offer exquisite alfresco dining, with controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen their terraces overlooking the Bosphorus. If you want to make a night of it, move on to hot nightspots like Sunset (p. 60), Ulus 29 (p. 26), Nupera (p. 30) and 360 (p. 27), with finest in food and music where you can enjoy the warm night air from their terraces. İstanbul awaits you with its historic atmosphere, mysterious streets and delicious where (c), cee & turkey dıvısıon Turkish cuisine. We wish you a wonderful time as you explore our city! United Guides Hungary MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky Wishing you exciting, sunny days in İstanbul, regıonal manager Bianca Otero DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul

Managing Director Europe Morris Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted by turkuvaz matbaacılık yayıncılık A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.55 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical

Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Intercontinental İstanbul Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Oğuz Uzun - Divan İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey

2 WHERE İstanbul I July 2014 July 2014www.wheretraveler.com I İstanbUl WHERE 53 Where now | CALENDAR JULY Immerse yourself with top acts at the 21st 1 İstanbul Jazz Festival (p. 24) View the modern sculptural pieces at Proje 4L 2 Elgiz Museum (p. 21) Enjoy Aegean folk songs by Sezen Aksu and HOT DATES 3 Ara Dinkjian at the Open Air Theatre (p. 23) Catch jazz masters Stanley Clarke and Chick 4 Corea at Haliç Convention Centre. (p. 24) Savour a dinner of contemporary Japanese SUNDAY 5 cuisine at Zuma, at the Bosphorus (p. 53) Take in the Ramadan concerts after sunset 6 at Akasya Acıbadem shopping mall (p. 34) Explore Kadıköy markets, famous for their 7 fishmongers and restaurants. 13 Catch the Andy Warhol&Stephen Chambers 8 exhibitions at the Pera Museum (p. 21) METALLICA Visit the photo exhibition Yolda (‘On The The legendary Heavy Metal band roars 9 Road’) at İstanbul Modern (p. 18). onto stage at the İTÜ Stadium in a Don’t miss Katie Melua in concert at the special concert that includes requests 10 Cemil Topuzlu Open Air Theatre (p. 24) from the audience. Dubbed ‘Metallica Enjoy a summer day of open-air shopping at by Request’, the high-octane concert 11 Zorlu Center (p. 38) features 18 songs, 17 of which are Join locals for Ramadan sundown festivities decided by audience vote (p. 23). 12 in Sultanahmet Square. If metal’s your thing, catch the Metallica 13 concert at İTÜ Stadium (p. 23) Wander Eminönü’s markets and buy Turkish 14 coffee at Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi (p. 48) THURSDAY Catch the legendary Neil Young and Crazy 15 Horse, in concert at Küçükçiftlik Park (p. 23) See Mercan Dede Ensemble’s unique fusion 16 Turkish music at Zorlu Center PSM (p. 23) Enjoy dinner of fresh fish and traditional 10 17 mezes at Eftalya Balık in Arnavutköy (p. 54) KATIE MELUA Visit the Hırka-i Şerif Mosque in Fatih during 18 Ramadan to see sacred exhibits (p. 16) A guest of the 21st İstanbul Jazz Festival, the young British vocalist Take in summer concerts at the Trump Cadde 19 of Trump Towers, luxury shopping mall (p. 38) has in recent years been a top selling artists in England and Enjoy Sunday brunch at Leonardo Restaurant 20 in peaceful Polonezköy. T: 0216 432 3082 Europe. Appearing at the Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu Open-Air Stage, Visit the newly-restored Ortaköy Mosque 21 located on the waterfront (p. 16) Melua performs her mellow blues and jazz songs from her recent Eat like a sultan with Ottoman palace 22 delicacies at Matbah Restaurant (p. 62) albums (p. 24). View three-dimensional plastic art in the 23 Genesis exhibition at Zorlu Center (p. xx) TUESDAY Revisit your childhood at the Toy Museum 24 www.istanbuloyuncakmuzesi.com Buy jewellery and handicrafts at the Grand 25 Bazaar, in business for five centuries (p. 34) Savour delicious South East Asian flavours 15 26 at Teppanyaki Alaturka (p. 52) Explore historic vehicles and a submarine NEIL YOUNG & 27 at Rahmi Koç Museum (p. 15). CRAZY HORSE Top up your wardrobe with great summer Classic Evergreen, legendary rock 28 discounts at V2K Designers (p. 42) vocalist and guitarist Young takes Enjoy a lively evening of music and cocktails the stage with his band of 50 29 at Bosphorus-side club Anjelique (p. 27) years, Crazy Horse. His Küçükçiftlik Browse Turkish ceramics, carpets and Park performance features 30 jewellery collection at Nakkaş (p. 39) unforgettable hits including Heart Go boutique shopping in Nişantaşı and Of Gold and Harvest Moon (p. 23). 31 take a break in Limonata (p. 53)

4 WHERE İstanbul I JULY 2014 Where Now | İSTANBUL in 2014

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In addition to top Turkish and foreign fashion labels, you can sample food from all over Turkey with restaurants serving Black Sea, Antep and Aegean cuisine, plus MALL OF İSTANBUL: European and Asian restaurants Pay a visit to Ottomanya, an unusual family attraction which uses modern interactive technology to offer art, history and Majestıc, Terrıfıc, lıvely entertainment plus interesting workshops, making education fun for all ages. Moi Park is one of Europe’s largest theme parks featuring, among many others, a ‘Hotel Mall of İstanbul offers a choice of 350 stores and thousands of fashion brands, Europe’s of Horrors’ and giant slides, plus Moi Stage largest indoor amusement park Moi Park, gourmet treats at Gusto Moi, and the Moi Stage, which hosts a wide variety of art exhibitions. Mall of İstanbul truly offers something for all under one roof. Easy to get to and offering endless possibilities for shopping, dining and everyone! entertainment, it has quickly become one of the city’s favourite malls. TEM Basın Ekspres Kavşağı, Mahmutbey, Başakşehir. 444 2664. (10 km away from Atatürk Airport) www.mallofistanbul.com

6 WHERE İstanbul I JULY 2014 JULY 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 7 www.wheretraveler.com 13 Where Nonow || İSTANBULROYAL LONDON in 2014

ORIENT TERRACE

Arif Kemal Doğan mix from Manisa, squash flowers stuffed artichokes with olive oil are sure to be some Executive Chef with augergine puree, and quince terrine of the favourites. with kaymak. Pera Palace Hotel Jumeriah, Tell us about your Which Istanbul restaurants do you like? Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. restaurant’s menu. I love French cuisine, and La Brise is one of T: 0212 3774 000. www.jumeriah.com Our menu features light the best in the city. For sushi I love Sushi Co; dishes selected from Turkey Eataly for authentic Italian pizza and pasta; and Mediterranean cuisines, including hot and Agatha, Topaz and Kanaat Lokantası for and cold tapas, healthy foods and steaks. Turkish food. Some of the modern flavours include lamb marinated in mesir macunu, a sweet spice What are your favourite spots in the city in your free time? Eminönü always clears my mood, especially shopping in the Grand Bazaar, and breathing in the aromas in the Spice Bazaar. At the weekends, I stroll along Bağdat Caddesi and relax in one of its many cafes.

What new cooking trends do you see on the horizon? I believe Turkish cuisine will make serious headway in the years to come; healthy dishes like celeriac and

10 WHERE İstanbul I JULY 2014 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS Byzantine church after Hagia Sophia and the only Jurassic Land Sightseeing one with a surviving atrium. Also open for special Jurassic Land invites you to discover the world events and ceremonies, the museum hosts various of the dinosaurs, where these most magnificent Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) events. Requires prior appointment by phone. TL creatures – the last of which died out 65 million The largest covered cistern in İstanbul, named after 20. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, years ago – come back to life. Designed in an a basilica once located nearby. Built during the Eminönü. T: 0212 512 0480. F5. ‘edutainment’ concept combining fun and reign of Justinian I (527-565) to provide water for education. Daily 10am-8pm. Museum Pass neighbouring palaces. 143m long, 65m wide, Hagia Sophia Museum Advantage Point (%15 discount on tickets) with a total area of 9,800 square metres. Open daily (Ayasofya Müzesi) www.jurassicland.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe between 09:00 am and 18:30 pm Admission fee: TL Built between 532 and 537 by Byzantine Emperor Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 8088. 20. www.yerebatan.com. Alemdar Mah. Yerebatan Justinian I in the old city centre, Hagia Sophia, or Shopping Centre Map (p.38). Cad. 1/3, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 1259. F5. Church of the Holy Wisdom, is the oldest and most quickly constructed cathedral in the world, and Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque Cistern Of Philoxenos fourth largest in terms of its area. A masterpiece This mosque, designed by Mimar Sinan, resembles (Binbirdirek Sarnıcı) of art, history and architecture, it served two a small Hagia Sophia, and is adorned with famous The second-largest water reservoir in İstanbul Abrahamic religions -916 years as the central Iznik tiles of the period. It also includes a külliye, or after the Basilica Cistern, this structure was built church of the Byzantine Empire and 477 years as complex consisting of a Turkish bath, a tomb and a in the 4th century according to Byzantine sources. mosque - before being converted into a museum madrassah. Tophane, Beyoğlu. D5. When Emperor Constantine I rebuilt the city, it in 1935. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 25. was constructed to provide water to the Byzantine Museum Pass Point Ayasofya Meydanı, Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) palace. Columns bear pyramid-shaped capitals. Built on a small Bosphorus islet off the coast of Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 0989. F5. The Cistern of Philoxenos serves as a museum Üsküdar, the Maiden’s Tower has been at the centre today. Daily 9am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. İstanbul Aquarium of many myths. According to one, it was built by www.binbirdirek.com. İmran Öktem Sk. 4, The İstanbul Aquarium is the world’s largest an emperor to protect his daughter who he saw Binbirdirek, Sultanahmet. thematic aquarium, and has received huge positive die of snakebite in a dream. The effort proved T: 0212 518 1001. F5. response from the public. Daily 10am-8pm. futile as the snake hid itself in a fruit basket and www.istanbulakvaryum.com. Şenlikköy Mah. Dolmabahçe Palace Museum bit her anyway. Having served as a customshouse, Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. watchtower, lighthouse, radar station, and (Dolmabahçe Sarayı Müzesi) T: 0212 444 9744. Off map. warehouse throughout its 2,500-year history, it Commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit I, this palace was built between 1843 and 1856. It reflects the Western influence in Ottoman architecture in the late 18th century. Design contains eclectic elements from the baroque, rococo and neoclassical styles. It served as Atatürk’s residence during the early Republican Period and hosted many high level foreign guests before being converted into a museum. Daily open except Mon&Thu 9am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 40. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7.

Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) Located in the Galata district, it was built in 1348 by the Genoese in addition to the city walls to defend the region from outside attacks. The tower has One of the Most Beautiful a superb panoramic view of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the city. The restaurant located at the top floor of the tower offers Turkish and of its Era international dishes. Daily 9am-8.30pm. Admission fee: TL 18,5. www.galatatower.net. Bereketzade Mah. Büyük Hendek Cad. 2, Kuledibi, Construction of the Valide Sultan Mosque, also known as Yeni Camii Şişhane. T: 0212 293 8180. D4. (New Mosque) began in 1597 at the orders of Safiye Sultan, wife of Galata Mevlevihanesi Founded in the late 15th century, this Mevlevi Sultan Murat III. lodge is a fine place to acquaint yourself with the Islamic Mystic philosophy and practices which pened for worship by Mehmet IV’s Across the courtyard is the tomb of Mehmet hold such an important place Anatolia’s cultural mother, the mosque is prominently IV’s mother (the Valide Sultan after which it heritage. Operating as a museum since the last quarter of the 20th century, this historical site located in İstanbul’s was named) and a fountain. O consists of three floors, including the Semâhâne, Eminönü district, next to the The dome is supported by four half where the dervishes perform their famous ritual famous Spice Bazaar. domes, with small entire domes whirling dance. The museum’s collection also Designed by Mustafa filling the spaces between them. includes calligraphic panels, musical instruments, Ağa, head architect The interior of the courtyard costumes and other items from Mevlevi culture. Daily open except Mondays 9am-7pm. of the time, the features eight-cornered capitals Museum Pass Point www.

mosque is especially and arches, and the ablution galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov. tr. Magnificent Tiles noted for the font at its centre. The mosque Galip Dede Cad. 15, Beyoğlu. Çinili Köşk (Tiled Kiosk), built in 1472 by Sultan Mehmet II, is renowned for the pyramid shape of has two minarets, with three T: 0212 245 4141. D5. lavish, brilliantly coloured ceramic tiles, mosaics and gold ornaments decorating its domes and half balconies each. Hagia Irene Museum (Aya İrini Müzesi) its walls. The museum is home to nearly 2,000 works of art, among which the domes, and the way Located in the outer courtyard of the Topkapı Tiled Mihrab, Oil Lamp and Ab-ı Hayat (Water of Life) Fountain are some of the it emphasises height. Eminönü. Palace, Hagia Irene is a Byzantine structure dating most beautiful. Osman Hamdibey Yokuşu, Gülhane. T: 0212 520 7740. back to the 4th century. It is the second largest

12 WHERE İstanbul I JULY 2014 JULY 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 13 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS also marked the entrance of the Bosphorus. The of Sultan Abdülaziz (1861-1865), this replaced the science in areas including astronomy, geography, Rahmi M. Koç Museum foundations and most of the lower storey of the previous wooden waterfront palace. Previously mathematics, optics, medicine, chemistry, The first major museum in Turkey dedicated tower were built during the reign of Mehmet II, and it was generally used in summers, particularly to technology and architecture were discovered, to the history of transportation, industry and it took its final shape during the reign of Mahmut host foreign heads of state including the Prince reached Europe via various routes, and gradually communication. Located on the shores of the II. Daily 9am-00:30am. Museum cafe 9am-6:45pm. of Serbia, King of Montenegro, Shah of Iran and absorbed into those cultures. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. Golden Horn, its collection includes thousands of Museum Pass Point Live music-dinner (Reservations required) 8:15pm- French Empress Eugenie. Garden contains a objects from gramophone needles to ships and 12:30am. Museum Pass Advantage Point (25% off cafeteria and sales booths. Daily except Mon&Thu Gülhane Parkı İçi, Eminönü, Fatih. aircrafts. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. adult tickets and 20% discount on Breakfast/Lunch/ 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 20. Abdullahağa Cad. www.ibttm.org. T: 0212 528 8065. E5. Admission fee: TL 12,50. Museum Pass Advantage Dinner/Brunch purchases) Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar. T: 0216 321 9320. Off map. Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% discount on Mustafa Kemal Museum www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak Mevkii, Üsküdar. D7. gift shop purchases) www.rmk-museum.org. Chora Museum (Kariye Müzesi) This three-storey house in the Akaretler Row tr. Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. T: 0212 369 6600. B3. Miniatürk First built as part of a monastery in 534, this Houses, where the founder of the Turkish Republic Covering an area of 60,000 square metres, is the only remaining structure from a larger Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed frequently between Sadberk Hanım Museum Miniatürk is the largest model park in the world, complex. Since its construction, it has seen major 1912 and 1919, was also the residence of his mother Funded by the Vehbi Koç Foundation, this museum displaying 105 1/25 scale models of major renovations in the 11th and 14th centuries. The Zübeyde Hanım, his sister Makbule Atadan and his is located in a renovated old waterfront mansion. structures in the Turkish and former Ottoman modern building consists mostly of the portions adopted son, Abdurrahim Tunçak. Now a museum Exhibiting a collection of archaeological artefacts, region. Open daily between 9:00 am and 7pm. renovated during the Ottoman and Republican displaying Atatürk’s belongings and historical it earned the 1988 Europa Nostra Award for its Admission fee: TL 10. www.miniaturk.com.tr. periods. Its magnificent mosaics and frescos are items from the time. Daily 9am-4pm. Admission modern museum practices. Thu-Tue 10am-5pm. Borsa Durağı Mevkii. İmrahor Cad. Sütlüce. among the finest examples of Byzantiane art. Daily free. Süleyman Seba Cad. Admission fee: TL 7. Museum Pass Advantage T: 0212 222 2882. Off map. except Wed 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 15. Akaretler Sıraevler, 36, Beşiktaş. Point (You can buy the ticket with a special discount) Museum Pass Point Ayvansaray Mah. T: 0212 236 3329. A7. www.sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr. Büyükdere Sapphire Kariye Camii Sok. 26, Edirnekapı, Fatih. Cad. 25/29, Sarıyer. T: 0212 242 3813. Off map. A hot destination since the day it opened, Military Museum (Askeri Müze) T: 0212 631 9241. C2. Sapphire’s observation deck offers a stunning 360° Constructed in 1841 as a Military Academy, this Sakıp Sabancı Museum panorama that takes in the Galata Tower, Hagia Doğançay Museum building serves today as the Military Museum. The main building of this museum is a villa built in Sophia, the Bosphorus and more. Daily 10am- Housed in an historical 5-storey building, this 5,000 objects selected from the museum’s 1927 by Italian architect Eduard De Nari for Prince 10pm. www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, museum presents paintings by Adil Doğançay and collection of 45,000 items include arms, uniforms, Muhammad Ali Hasan of the Egyptian Khedive Eski Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. his world-renowned son Burhan Doğançay. Free of tents, flags, swords, helmets and Ottoman-era family. Purchased by the Sabancı Family in 1950. In T: 0212 268 8383. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). charge. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. artefacts. One of the oldest military bands in the 1998, it was given to Sabancı University along with www.dogancaymuseum.org. world, the Janissary Band gives concerts between its collections and furniture to serve as a museum. Turkuazoo Hüseyin Ağa Mah. Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. 3 and 4pm. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL The mansion houses a rich calligraphy and painting Turkey’s first public aquarium, Turkuazoo is situated T: 0212 244 7770. C5. 4. www.tsk.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 2, Harbiye. collection. Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10am-6pm. in the huge Forum İstanbul shopping centre. In T: 0212 233 2720. B6. 10am-8pm, Wed 10am-8pm. Free entrance at addition to observing marine life, visitors can İstanbul Archaeological Museums Wednesdays. Museum Pass Advantage Point (TL8 Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi) also experience one of the most breath taking (İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri) for adult ticket and 10% discount on Museum Gift activities of a life time; Diving with Sharks. Mon-Sun Founded in 1891 by painter and archaeologist Largest maritime museum in Turkey and among the Shop) muze.sabanciuniv.edu. Sakıp Sabancı 10am-8pm. www.turkuazoo.com. Forum İstanbul Osman Hamdi Bey, this museum houses artefacts most important worldwide with its rich collection Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. Off map. Shopping Center, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. 5/5, from the many civilizations that have left their of 40,000 items. Barges, marine uniforms, Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 2015. marks upon history. It is also the first museum manuscripts, scale models, standards, maps, Santralistanbul Shopping Centre Map (p.38). founded in Turkey, and considered one of the ten paintings, sultans’ seals, coats of arms, galleys, The first power plant in the Ottoman Empire, foremost of its kind in the world. It is actually three navigation tools and weaponry. Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, this complex was later upgraded in keeping with Yıldız Palace, Şale Mansıon different museums under the same administration: Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 6. advances in technology and served İstanbul until (Yıldız Sarayı, Şale Köşk) The Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient www.denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr. Deniz Müzesi 1983 as the Silahtarağa Power Plant. Now within Part of Yıldız Palace, Şale Köşk is one of the most Museum (Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi) and Tiled Kiosk Komutanlığı, Barbaros Hayrettin Cad.Beşiktaş. the campus of a private university, the historical fascinating examples of 19th-century Ottoman Museum (Çinili Köşk Müzesi), which together form T: 0212 327 4345. B7. building has recently been renovated to serve as architecture. It consists of three main buildings an outstanding attraction in the city. an art and culture centre. Highlights include the constructed in between 1880 and 1898, located Panorama 1453 History Museum www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. old engine rooms preserved to establish an Energy in a garden surrounded by high walls. Its last two Witness the conquest of İstanbul 560 years later Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point (10% Museum, plus contemporary art exhibitions and sections were constructed to host Kaiser Wilhelm and relive the moment Mehmet II entered the city. discount at the Shop and Café) cultural events. Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am- II during his visit to İstanbul. Daily except Mon-Thu Open daily between 8am and 6pm Admission fee: Cankurtaran Mah., Alemdar Cad. Osman Hamdi 8pm. Admission fee: TL 15. 9:00am-5pm. www.millisaraylar.gov.tr. Admission TL 10. www.panoramikmuze.com. Maltepe Mah., Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7740. E5. www.santralistanbul.org. Eski Silahtarağa fee: TL 10. Palanga Cad. 53, Yıldız, Beşiktaş. Topkapı Kültür Parkı Panorama 1453 Tarih Müzesi Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. T: 0212 259 8977. A8. İstanbul Modern Topkapı, Zeytinburnu. T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. Non-profit cultural institution offering exhibitions T: 0212 415 1453. Off map. and events held with the support of private TBMM Department Pera Museum museums individuals, institutions and establishments as well Of National Palaces Art Museum Founded by the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation, as local governments through joint projects. The Apartment of the Heir Apparent at Adam Mickiewicz Museum museum hosts three permanent collections Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-8pm. Dolmabahçe Palace, itself an architectural symbol Residence of one of Poland’s three national poets, including Anatolian weights and measures, Kütahya Admission fee: TL 17. www.istanbulmodern.org. of the princes’ adoption of a free lifestyle, has been who came to Turkey during the Crimean War to tiles and ceramics, and orientalist art, consisting of Meclisi Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Müd. converted into a world-class museum. Opened in organize the Polish troops on the allied side. 300 paintings. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. March 2014, the museum displays 202 paintings Tue-Sun 9.30am-4:30pm. Admission free. Serdar Admission fee: TL 10. Museum Pass Advantage Ömer Cad. Tatlı Badem Sok. 17, Dolapdere. depicting the late Ottoman Empire. 174 of the İstanbul Railway Museum Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% discount on works are from the National Palaces Collection; the T: 0212 237 2545. B5. This collection of 300 rail-related items explores Perakende Artshop and Pera Café) remaining 28 are from Topkapı Palace. all aspects of the Turkish Railways, including items www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Aşiyan Museum Tue-Wed 9am-5pm. Fri-Sun 9am-5pm. from the original Orient Express. Tue-Sat 9am- Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C5. Residence of prominent poet and writer Tevfik www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. 5pm. Sirkeci Train Station, Eminönü. Fikret. Personal belongings of Tevfik Fikret and Press Museum (Basın Müzesi) Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. T: 0212 520 6575. Abdülhak Hamid as well as photographs and E5. Transformed into a museum in 1988, this is the The Museum Of Innocence belongings of other prominent members of the Museum for the History of Science and first press museum in Turkey and the fourth in the Edebiyat-ı Cedide literary movement. Free of Technology in Islam (İstanbul İslam world. The incredible variety of objects exhibited The Masumiyet Müzesi (‘Museum of Innocence’), charge. Tue-Sat 9am-4pm. Bebek, Aşiyan Yolu 15, inspired by the 2008 novel of the same name Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi) includes lithography samples, platen machines, by Nobel prize-winner Orhan Pamuk, is the first Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 6986. Off map. This museum displays modern copies of inventions letterpresses, proofing tables, old typewriters and museum in history inspired by a novel and made and discoveries by Muslim scholars which were telex machines. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission Beylerbeyi Palace Museum reality. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: TL used for centuries but largely forgotten. The free. Divanyolu Cad. 76, Çemberlitaş. (Beylerbeyi Sarayı Müzesi) 25. Museum Pass Advantage Point (30 % off displays illustrate clearly how works of Islamic T: 0212 513 8458. F4. Built by architect Serkis Balyan during the reign adult tickets, 10% discount on Museum Gift Shop

14 WHERE İstanbul I JULY 2014 JULY 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 15 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

to be originally built with six minarets, and stands Kazım Orbay Cad.Efe Sok. 29, Şişli. MOSQUES out on the city’s skyline from the Bosphorus. It churches AND T: 0212 240 6599. Off map. is also known as the Blue Mosque for the İznik İstanbul’s mosques are among the most SYNAGOGUES tiles that adorn its interior. Entering the structure Church Of St. George Of Fener Greek outstanding witnesses to the city’s long history. Churches and synagogues hold an important place through one of its three gates, visitors are greeted Orthodox Patriarchate Each has a unique history and architecture, and in the vast cultural geography of İstanbul, which by its rich and colourful ornamentation including The centre of the Orthodox Christian world, this is open to visitors at vario times of the day. has served as capital of three major empires over engravings, tiles and stained glass windows church hosts many relics including the column on The following is a list of some of the highlights. 1,600 years. The following are the most important that complement the grandeur of its exterior. which Jesus was whipped and remains of three Most open daily from dawn to sunset. of Istanbul’s churches and synagogues for their great saints. Fener Rum Patrikhanesi, Dr. Sadık Sultanahmet. T: 0212 458 4468. F4/F5. No admittance during the Friday prayer times history and architecture. Synagogues require a Ahmet Cad. 35, Haliç. T: 0212 531 5152. C3. between approx 12pm-1pm. Before entering the Süleymaniye Mosque permit, available from the İstanbul Chief Rabbinate. mosque, visitors should cover their arms and legs; Commissioned by Sultan Süleyman I (Süleyman the T: 0212 293 8794. Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church women should cover their heads. Magnificient), this mosque was built between 1550- Located at the intersection of Sıraselviler Street Armenian Patriarchate 1557 by Sinan the Architect. Described as a work and İstiklal Street in Taksim, this church is a Eyüp Sultan Mosque Just a 20-minute walk from Hagia Sophia, the Blue from Sinan’s apprenticeship period, the mosque is synthesis of Byzantine and modern architecture Located in Eyüp on the northern tip of the Golden Mosque and Topkapı Palace. In 2001, almost the actually part of the Süleymaniye Complex (Külliye), with a cruciform plan and twin bell towers. Horn, where one of the first followers of Islam, Eyyubu entire Armenian community of İstanbul celebrated also including a madrasah (religious school), Daily 9am-5pm. Meşelik Sok. 11/1, Taksim. El-Ensari was buried after he was killed during the the 540th anniversary of the Armenian Patriarchate library, hospital, bath, soup kitchen, treasury T: 0212 244 1358. C5. Arab siege of Constantinople. Mehmed II ordered at this church. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. and shops. Resting on four massive columns, the the construction of a shrine and a mosque on the Sevgi Sok. 6, Kumkapı. T: 0212 517 0970. Neve Shalom Synagogue mosque’s dome is 53 metres high and 26.5 metres B4. location. The first mosque, which was completed in The most famous Jewish synagogue in the city. in diameter. Its interior is subtly decorated, with 1458, was later destroyed, with the present structure Ayios Dimitrios Church Shabbats, weddings, funerals, brit milahs, bar/bat the windows on the mihrab wall executed in with constructed by Uzun Hüseyin Efendi between 1798 Unusually for a 16th century Greek Orthodox mitzvahs as well as high holidays are celebrated stained glass. Süleymaniye, Beyazıt. and 1800. Eyüp. T: 0212 418 9393. A1. church, it displays clear Ottoman architectural here. Büyük Hendek Cad. 67, Kuledibi, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 532 0623. E3/E4. influence. Formerly the church of Ayios Athanasios, T: 0212 293 7566. D4. Hirka-I Şerif Mosque it is said to have changed its name when an icon of Valide Sultan Mosque (Yeni Camii) Built in 1851 by Sultan Abdülmecid in Ottoman St. Dimitrios was brought here from a small church St. Anthony Of Padua Church Located in Eminönü Square next to the Egyptian style, to house the Hırka-ı Şerif (the cloak of the in the Kasımpaşa district. Kurtuluş Square, the last Roman Catholic church with the largest Bazaar (Spice Market), this mosque in the centre Prophet Mohammed presented to him by Uwais al- bus stop on Kurtuluş Cad. Ateşböceği Sok. 2, Şişli. congregation in İstanbul. The entrance to the of a complex is one of the most glorious of the Qarani) this mosque is open throughout the month T: 0212 250 6248. church is between the two apartment buildings monumental mosques built on the coastline. It was Off map. of Ramadan. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Fatih. where priests reside. Reinforced concrete commissioned by Safiye Sultan in 1597 and built by T: 0212 631 6453. D2. Beth Israel Synagogue construction built in Italian neo-Gothic style by Architect Davud Ağa, an apprentice of Sinan. Built in 1920, this synagogue provides religious architect Guillio Mongeri. Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Nuruosmaniye Mosque Upon his death in 1598, Dalgıç Ahmet Çavuş services under the Neve Shalom Foundation. It is Sun 9am-12:30pm, 2pm-5pm. Commissioned by Sultan Mahmut I in 1748, this became its architect. Largely destroyed by a fire in the most active synagogue in Turkey. Bomonti, İstiklal Cad. 171, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. 1660, it was reopened in 1665. mosque was completed during the reign of his T: 0212 244 0935. C5. brother Osman III, built by Mustafa Aga. With its Eminönü. E4. baroque style and the three-dimensional stone The Ottoman Summer Palace patterns, it is one of its kind in world architecture. Built between 1861 and 1876 at the order of Sultan Abdülaziz, the magnificent The mosque’s two minarets feature the first stone Beylerbeyi Palace served both as a summer getaway for the Ottoman sultans, and combs used instead of lead ones. Nuruosmaniye, Eminönü. T: 0212 513 0692. lodging for visiting heads of state. One of the most interesting features of the palace is E4. its garden, full of pines and chestnut trees and decorated with bronze statues (p. 14). Ortaköy Mosque Located next to Ortaköy Pier, this mosque was commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit to Karabet Balyan. The structure underwent restoration the Janissaries), the Second Courtyard (Divan and Café) www.masumiyetmuzesi.org. between 1960 and 1972. It is a baroque structure

Çukurcuma Cad. Dalgıç Çıkmazı, 2, Beyoğlu. T: Square), the Third Courtyard (Enderun Courtyard), featuring a single dome with two slim minarets. the Fourth Courtyard (Imperial Sofa) and the White stone was used for walls, mosaic and 0212 252 9738. C5. Harem. Guided tours in the Harem section require marble for the mihrab, and porphyry for the pulpit. The Quincentennial Foundation additional ticket purchase. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. Ortaköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 359 5908. A9. Museum Of Turkish Jews Admission fee: TL 30. Harem, 9am-6pm. Rüstem Paşa Mosque (500. Yıl Vakfı Türk Musevileri Müzesi) Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point This mosque in the Tahtakale area, near the (Also Known As Jewish Museum) www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. Sultanahmet Meydanı. Egyptian (Spice) Market, was commissioned to the Historical documents, information and objects T: 0212 512 0480. E5. famous architect Sinan by the daughter of Sultan documenting the 700-year of history of Jewry in Suleiman the Magnificent. Begun in the year 1561, the Ottoman Empire. A work by sculptor Nadia Yıldız Palace Museums it is a classical Ottoman structure, adorned with Arditti to commemorate the Turkish-Jewish (Yıldız Sarayı Müzeleri) beautiful 16th-century Iznik tiles bearing floral soldiers fallen while defending their country greets Complex of former imperial Ottoman pavilions and and fruit motifs. Tue-Sun 9am-12pm, 1pm-5pm. visitors at the entrance. Mon-Thu 10am-4pm, villas representing the last examples of Ottoman Hasırcılar Çarşısı, Eminönü. F4. Fri&Sun 10am-2pm. Admission fee: TL 10. palace architecture. The first building in the area www.muze500.com. Karaköy Meydanı, Perçemli was constructed during the reign of Ahmet I in Sokullu Mehmet Paşa Mosque Sok. 1 (Behind Selanik Arcade), Karaköy. the 17th century. The palace in its current form With a single dome and minaret, and built in Kadırga in 1507, this mosque was commissioned T: 0212 292 6333. D5. was built at the order of Abdülhamid II in 1880, by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sokullu Mehmet Pasha who wanted his seat of government beyond Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) to Mimar Sinan for his wife. Its interior features Built in 1478, during the reign of Mehmet II (the the reach of bombardment from the sea. Items İznik tiles and special hand-carvings, with a mihrab Conqueror), Topkapı Palace served as the seat exhibited today originally belonged to the palace, covered with calligraphic tiles. Şehit Mehmet Paşa of government of the Ottoman Empire and including Abdülhamid II’s personal belongings Yokuşu, Kadırga, Eminönü. F4. the residence of Sultans for 380 years, until and gifts presented to him, and products of the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque the construction of Dolmabahçe Palace. It was Yıldız Porcelain Factory still located on the palace One of the most famous landmarks of the Turkish organised as a museum during the reign of premises. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. and Islamic world, Sultanahmet Mosque is a highly Abdülhamid II, but not opened to the public until www.yildizsarayi.com. Admission fee: TL 8. admired structure by all visitors. An example of 1924. It consists of several sections, including Museum Pass Point Yıldız, Beşiktaş. classical Turkish art, it is the only one of its kind the Imperial Gate, the First Courtyard (Court of T: 0212 258 3080. A8.

16 WHERE İstanbul I JULY 2014 JULY 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 17 GALLERIES GALLERIES Coast Visions, featuring artists and works from the C.A.M Gallery THE EMPIRE PROJECT San Francisco Museum Art’s Media Art Collection. To 19 Jul: The exhibition ‘Art Within Reach’ features Kutuplar (L’Poles’) (p. 21) The exhibition presents works by artists including works by young artists, in a variety of disciplines. Jeremy Blake, Bill Fontana, Doug Hall, Steina and Bill Tue-Sat 11am-6.30pm. www.camgaleri.com. Viola, including major pieces employing new and old Şair Nedim Cad. 25A, Akaretler. T: 0212 245 7975. technology. Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Off map. www.borusancontemporary.com. Perili Köşk, Baltalimanı Hisar Cad. Rumeli Hisarı, Daire Sanat Sarıyer. T: 0212 393 5200. Off map. To 12 Jul: The first show in the Focus exhibition series, Serbest Çağrışım (‘Free Association’) Bozlu Art Project To 16 Aug: İklim Değişimi (‘Climate Change’), an consists of works by young artists, making exhibition of works by 13 artists and curated by references to social limits in the political realm. Özlem İnay Erten, features works in a variety of Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 11am-7pm. media including painting, sculpture and video. www.dairesanat.com. Boğazkesen Cad. 65D, Tue-Sat 10am-7pm. www.bozluartproject.com. Tophane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 5259. C5. Teşvikiye Cad. 45/131, İsmet Apt 1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 7232. A6. Ekavart Gallery Yeditepe University arts students present Çağla Cabaoğlu Gallery To 12 Jul: Çok Sesli Yaklaşımlar (‘Polyphonic Approaches’), To 12 Jul: Emre Namyeter’s solo show Şimdi Değil with a goal of creating a free zone for personal (‘Not Now’) focuses on visual perception and its variations. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. development. Mon-Fri 11am-6.30pm, Sat noon- www.caglacabaoglu.com. 6.30pm. www.ekavartgallery.com. Askerocağı Cad. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Lalezar Apt. 2/F 49/8, Teşvikiye. Ritz Carlton Otel, Süzer Plaza 15, Gümüşsuyu. T: 0212 291 3791. A6. T: 0212 252 8131. B6.

Armaggan Art & Design Gallery From 3 Jul: Ayşegül Kırmızı presents a collection of animal and female figure paintings, in her solo exhibition Haz (Pleasure). From 3 Jul: Betül Cankara’s exhibition Hiç (None) consists of abstract figures executed in layers of colours and paint, which make reference to past experiences. Mon-Tue 10am-9pm. www.armaggangallery.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, Nuruosmaniye, Eminönü. T:0212 522 4433. E4.

Art Limits A varied collection ranging from fashion photos, nature and abstract geometric works to figurative illustrations, inc works by several international artists, in a variety of photographic, digital and mixed techniques. Open daily Neglected Subjects except Sun 10:30am-7pm. en.artlimits.com. Şair Nedim Cad. 14, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. İstanbul Modern presents a selection of photographs from T: 0212 258 2195. B7. Nar Photos’ 2003-2013 archives, entitled Yolda (‘On The Road’). Arter To 17 Aug: Füsun Onur presents significant The exhibition provides a journey through events and situations works in her exhibition Aynadan İçeri (‘Looking Glass’), named after Lewis Carroll’s children’s in Turkey’s recent history, some of which continue to affect the novel. Tue & Thu 11am-7pm, Fri-Sun noon-8pm. country today (to 9 Nov). www.arter.org.tr. İstiklal Cad. 211, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 3767. C5.

n independent photography Artvin Kafkasör Festival; other Artnext İstanbul collective, Nar Photos brings together Turkish regions such as Kars, To 30 Aug: Figüratif Yaz Sergisi (Figurative Adifferent Turkish points of view with Ardahan and Ağrı, plus ceremonies Summer Exhibition) presents figure-based works an egalitarian, democratic approach and an of ethnic groups like Armenians, by nine artists in a variety of techniques. Mon- emphasis on freedom. Kurds, Greeks and Assyrians. Sat 11am-7pm. www.artnext.org. Windowist Tower, Eski Büyükdere Cad. 26, Maslak. The 75 photographs on display provide In addition to the photographs, the T: 0212 999 3990. Off map. depictions of urban life including migrants exhibition also presents six related art ON İstanbul and nightlife, seasonal workers, and street videos of similar subject matter. To 12 Jul: Spain-based artist Onur Mansız’ solo events like LGBT and Women’s Day marches. show Trajedi (‘Tragedy’) consists of surrealist You’ll also see photos of prominent Istanbul Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. portraits packing a healthy dose of melancholy landmarks in the news recently including Liman İşletmeleri Sahası 305, and black humour. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. Toward Abstract Art İnönü Stadium and Gezi Park. Look out for Antrepo, 4, Karaköy. www.artonistanbul.com. Şair Nedim Cad. 4, Emre Namyeter’s solo show Şimdi Değil (‘Not Now’) at Çağla Cabaloğlu Gallery (to 12 Jul) cultural festivities such as circumcisions, T: 0212 334 7300. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 259 1543. A7. uses lines, motion and style to demonstrate that perception can be defined as a process henna nights, Nevruz (New Year) and the www.istanbulmodern.org Borusan Contemporary through which people organise their sensory impressions (p. 19). To 16 Nov: Borusan Contemporary presents West 18 WHERE İstanbul I july 2014 july 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 19 GALLERIES GALLERIES

Hagia Sophia Museum The Empire Project (Ayasofya Müzesi) GALLERY ZİLBERMAN (p. 20) To 12 Jul: Kutuplar (‘Poles’) presents 14 paintings, To 15 Jul: The Aşk-ı Nebi (‘Love for Prophet’) sculptures, photographs, installations and video exhibition, held in celebration of the 1443rd works by eight Polish artists. The title refers both anniversary of the birth of the Prophet Muhammed, the artists’ nationality and opposite poles. features works by living calligraphers on the theme Mon 12am-7:30pm. Tue-Sat 11am-6:30pm. of the Prophet. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. www.theempireproject.com. Sıraselviler Cad. 10, www.ayasofyamuzesi.gov.tr. Ayasofya Meydanı, K:1 D:4 Taksim. T: 0212 292 59 68. C5. Sultanahmet. T:0212 522 0989. E5. Topkapı Palace Hush Gallery To 15 Jul: The exhibition Aşk-ı Nebi (‘Love for To 5 Jul: Italian artist Riccardo Ajossa’s first solo Prophet’) is held in celebration of the 1443rd exhibition Shelter Add features works created anniversary of the birth of the Prophet Muhammed, predominantly out of paper. Mon-Sun 11am-7pm. displaying 99 sacred relics of Islam. Wed-Sun 9am- www.hushgallery.org. Rıhtım Cad. İskele Sok. 29/A, 5pm. www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. Babıhümayun Cad. Kadıköy. T: 0532 285 4904. Off map. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 512 0480. E5.

Institut Francais De Turquie Vialand

(Fransız Kültür Merkezi) Gündelik İstanbul Üzerine Mütevazı Fikirler (‘An media, in Yüce (‘Sublime’). Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. To Dec: Consisting of more than 100 works, Canlı To 31 Aug: Selçuk Demirel’s exhibition İnsanoğlu Innocent City: Humble Thoughts on Modern-Day www.sanatorium.com.tr. Asmalı Mescit Sk. 32/A, Müze (‘Alive Museum’) presents reproductions Kuş Misali (‘Mankind is Like a Bird’), features his İstanbul), consists of pieces by MA students at Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6717. C4. of works by famous artists and images that have drawings published in the press since 1974. Koç University, inspired by 12 objects chosen from become permanently etched on human history, Sultanahmet Nakkaş Art Gallery İstiklal Cad. 4 Taksim. T: 0212 393 8111. C5. Orhan Pamuk’s Museum Of Innocence. reinterpreted through three-dimensional video and Artist Necati Badem, affected by the www.rcac.ku.edu.tr. İstiklal Cad. 181, Merkez Han. To 17 Jul: animation. Daily 10am-10pm. www.canlimuze.com. İstanbul Modern ancient shipwreck unearthed by excavations for the Beyoğlu. T: 0212 393 6000. C5. Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Cad. Eyüp. T: 0212 397 1930. To 9 Nov: The exhibition Yolda (‘On The Road’) Marmaray metro, presents his ceramics exhibition features photographs documenting major events Off map. Pera Museum İstanbul’un Saklı Gemileri (‘İstanbul’s Hidden in Turkey from 2003 to 2013 by Nar Photos, an To 20 Jul: Herkes Için Pop Sanat (‘Pop Art For Ships’). Mon-Sat. www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Zorlu Center Art Gallery independent collective, reflecting its egalitarian, Everyone’) presents pioneering artist Andy Sok. 6, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F5. To 3 Aug: Artist Özcan Ukur creates two- and three- democratic approach. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu Warhol’s silkscreen series and designs. dimensional works in different types of plastic 10 am-8pm. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclis-i TEB Nişantaşı Private Banking Center To 20 Jul: A journey through the inner world of arts, presenting faceless bodies and the drama of Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası 305, Aylin Erözcan’s photographs depict Stephen Chambers, Büyük Ülke ve Diğer Hikâyeler To 31 Aug: mankind, in his exhibition Genesis. Mon-Sun 10am- Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. the world of mineworkers, in her exhibition Soğuk (‘Big Country and Other Stories’) presents 10pm. www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Zorlu Center, Ateş (‘Cold Fire’). Mon-Fri 11am-6pm. Bostan Sok. Koç Üniversitesi Anamed examples selected from the last 20 years of his Beşiktaş. T: 0850 222 6776. Off map. Proje 4L elgiz museum, 40 Yaş Altı Heykeltıraşlar (‘Sculptors Under The Age of 40’) (p. 21) Göksun Apt. 2, Şişli. T: 0212 219 0930. Off map. To 10 Jul: Nazlı’nın Defteri (‘Nazlı’s Notebook’) career. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. is based on notes kept by Nazlı Hamdi, the www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, daughter of famous painter, museum founder Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C4. Gallery G-Art much more. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. and archaeologist Osman Hamdi Bey between Proje 4L Elgiz Museum To 19 Jul: Young artist Ezgi Doğan focuses on www.haaz.info. Ahmet Fetgari Sok. 62, Teşvikiye, 1907 and 1911, shedding light on her father’s everyday life in her exhibit Günlükler (‘The Diaries’), To 23 Aug: 40 Yaş Altı Heykeltıraşlar (‘Sculptors Şişli. T: 0212 230 9600. A6. intellectual life. From 18 Jul: Masum Bir Kent: creating works with a spontaneous, somewhat Under The Age of 40’) presents striking modern dreamlike attitude. Tue-Sat 11am-9pm. sculptural pieces by young artists. Wed&Fri 10am- www.g-artgaleri.com. Kumbaracı Yokuşu, 37/A, 5pm, Sat 10am-4pm. www.proje4L.org. Meydan Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 6622. C5. Sok. Beybi Giz Plaza, B Blok, Maslak. T: 0212 290 2525. Off map. Gallery Mcrd To 5 Jul: The exhibition Reflex presents works by Rampa 11 artists using digital art, sculpture, photography, To 19 Jul: The group exhibition Burnumuzun animation and web games. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Ucunda Duran Gizli Bir Dünya (‘This Secret World www.galerimcrd.com. Tomtom Mah. That Exists Right There In Public’) comprises Boğazkesen Cad. 69, Tophane, Beyoğlu. works by 16 artists from several generations and T: 0212 244 4070. C5. from different regions. Its central theme is human relationships and social movements. Tue-Sat 11am- Gallery Zilberman 7pm. www.rampaistanbul.com. Şair Nedim Cad. To 26 Jul: American artist Kay Rosen’s exhibition 21A, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 327 0800. Off map. Instinct consists of a wall painting, and other works featuring a minimalist sensibility and subtle word Rezan Has Museum play. Tue-Fri 11am-7.30pm, Sat noon-7pm. To 31 Jul: The Urartian Jewellery Collection www.galerizilberman.com. İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. showcases jewellery from the Urartian Kingdom, 163, K.3 Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 1214. D5. the ancient civilization of Eastern Anatolia. Mon-Sun 9am-6pm. www.rhm.org.tr. Kadir Has Gama Art Gallery Üniversitesi, Cibali. T: 0212 233 6532. D3. To 11 Jul: Photographer and video artist Elif Suyabatmaz presents her view of an İstanbul born Salt Beyoğlu of a union of opposites, in her exhibition İstanbul To 27 Jul: Lebanese artist Rabih Mroue’s videos İzleri (‘Traces of İstanbul’). www.gamagallery.com. and installations deal with the Syrian civil war, Turnacıbaşı Sok. Beyoğlu. 21. T: 0212 245 6922. C5. plus issues such as societal dissatisfaction, Haaz Design & Art Gallery political demonstrations and social uprisings This original contemporary design gallery is in his exhibition Pikselli Devrim (‘The Pixelated Dynamic Works Revolution’). Tue-Sat noon-8pm. everything you’re looking for to be a little different C.A.M Gallery’s exhibition Start ‘Art Within Reach’ Vol. II (to 19 Jul) aims to make the works from the crowd. Haaz features creations from a www.saltonline.org. İstiklal Cad. 136, Beyoğlu. of artists in a variety of disciplines more available, to reach young collectors and art wealth of artists, including intricate porcelain T: 0212 377 4200. C4. lovers in a more affordable price range, and dispel the myth of art as highbrow and figurines by Lladro, exquisite furniture from Sanatorium Moroso, cutting-edge design pieces by Tom Dixon, unapproachable (p. 19). GALLERY G-ART, Günlükler (‘The Diaries’) (p. 20) To 19 Jul: A group exhibition of Turkish gallery imaginative lighting from Jonathan Adler, and artists depicts extreme emotions using many

20 WHERE İstanbul I july 2014 july 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 21 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT CONCERTS: CLASSICAL join the band Kardeş Türküler in a performance of KüçükÇiftlik Park famous folk songs from Turkey’s Aegean region. Neil Young + Midlake + Büyük Ev Abluka, Enka Goran Bregovic, 4 Jul, 9:15pm: Renowned Balkan 15 Jul, 9:30pm: This day-long concert features Eşref Denizhan Open-Air Theatre film score composer and lyricist, Bregovic performs performances by American group Midlake, Turkish Fazıl Say, 10 Jul, 9.15pm: Say performs works a selection of songs from his vast repertoire from the band Büyük Ev Abluka, and is closed by Canadian by famous classical composers including past two decades. Concha Buika + Pink Martini, rock legend Neil Young and his band Crazy Horse. Mozart, Chopin and Beethoven, plus his own 15 Jul, 9.30pm: Pink Martini, performing from their Dream Theater, 31 Jul, 8:30pm: Progressive compositions. ENKA Vakfı, Sadi Gülçelik Spor latest album Dream A Little Dream, joins Spanish Metal pioneer Dream Theater thrills its İstanbul fans Sitesi, İstinye. T: 0212 705 6000. Off map. diva Buika with her passionate love songs. Ajda during its Along For The Ride tour. Pekkan-Muazzez Abacı, 17 Jul, 9.30pm: Two of www.kucukciftlikpark.com. Kadırgalar Yokuşu 5, CONCERTS: JAZZ Turkish music’s top divas join forces, backed by a Maçka. T: 0212 231 3045. B6. 30-member live orchestra. Nilüfer, 19 Jul, 9.30pm: Zorlu Center PSM Akbank Sanat One of Turkey’s beloved pop vocalists sings her own Leo Tardin, 3 Jul, 8pm: Swiss pianist Leo Tardin songs plus favourite Turkish hits from the 70s, 80s This Mercan Dede Ensemble feat. Ludovico Forging a cultural bridge is on tour promoting his new album Till There’s and 90s. Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. Einaudi, 2 Jul, 9:30pm: Nothing Left, recorded with Black Cracker and between east and west, Mercan Dede shares T: 0212 232 1652. A6. Dom Burkhalter. www.akbanksanat.com. İstiklal the stage with composer Einaudi, hailed as a Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3500. C5. Hayal Kahvesi ‘modern-day Mozart’. Mercan Dede Ensemble The Turkish rock band Nardis Jazz Club Whisky, 7 Jul, 10:30pm: feat. Beyhan Murphy, Göksel Baktagir & features Serdar Çokuslu on guitar and vocals, Kadir Amigo Memiş, 9 Jul, 9:30pm: Fine Ağca Flapper Swing Band, 2 Jul, 9:30pm: Alpay Şalt on drums, Çağatay Ateş on bass guitar choreographer Beyhan Murphy, kanun virtuoso The band performs compositions by Django and Arif Deniztoker, guitar solos. Triosome, 14 and composer Göksel Baktagir, award-winning Reinhardt and jazz pieces from the 1920s and Jul, 10.30pm: This group puts on a colourful break dancer Kadir Amigo Memiş and Mercan 30s. Sibel Köse Group, 4 Jul, 10:30pm: Köse performance spanning musical styles from jazz to Dede join in a show of modern dance and music. sings her own interpretation of songs by jazz rock, avant garde and modern music. Mercan Dede Ensemble feat. Borusan Quartet vocalist Nina Simone. Çağıl Kaya Band, 5 Jul, www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com.tr. & Anjelika Akbar, 16 Jul, 9:30pm: The two 10:30pm: The Çağıl Kaya band performs pieces Hayal Kahvesi Beyoğlu, Daily 4pm-4am. İstiklal Cad. ensembles are joined by acclaimed Turkish/Uzbek from their new album, Bir Parça Ay Biraz Kuş. Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2558. C5. pianist Anjelika Akbar. Mercan Dede Ensemble Eren Coşkuner Eren Coşkuner, 7 Jul, 9:30pm: feat. Azam Ali & Zara, 23 Jul, 9:30pm: Mercan performs a selection of new songs plus favourites İTÜ Stadium Dede’s special Ramadan Project ends this evening from his first album, The Long Way.Deniz Dündar Metallica, 13 Jul, 5pm: The world-famous heavy with a concert together with world music vocalist Trio, 8 Jul, 9:30pm: Playing the drums like a metal band performs their favourite hits, on the Azam Ali and Turkish folk music star Zara. musical instrument, Dündar and his group put on İstanbul stop of their Metallica By Request tour. www.zorlucenter.com. Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, a toe-tapping performance. Ayazağa Kampüsü, Maslak. Standard A La Turc, Off map. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 444 9496. Off map. 10 Jul, 9:30pm: Top names in Turkish jazz join together in this concert blending Turkish music and jazz. Luis Ernesto Gomez and La Dercarga Band, 11 Jul, 10:30pm: Gomez and his band play Fado plus Latin American styles like salsa and cumbia in a rhythmic, energetic performance. İpek Dinç Yüce Band, 19 Jul, 10:30pm: Young singer Dinç performs a blend of favourite jazz standards with R&B and Latin sounds. Meltem Ege 6tet, 25 Jul, 10:30pm: This famous sextet on Turkey’s jazz scene presents rock, funk and R&B- A Passionate Voice of Love infused songs. www.nardisjazz.com. Kule Sok. 8, Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. Passionate Spanish singer Concha Buika performs at the Cemil CONCERTS: POP, Topuzlu Open-Air Stage in Harbiye, part of her world tour TURKISH & WORLD promoting her best album yet, La Noche Mas Larga (15 July). Enka Eşref Denizhan Open-Air Theatre Yalın, 4 Jul, 9:15pm: Known especially for his love songs, singer Yalın performs favourite lending flamenco with jazz and taking hits including Aşksın Sen and Olmasa da Olur. it to new heights, Buika brings a Teoman, 22 Jul, 9:15pm: Pop rebel Teoman sings his most famous hits Paramparça, İstanbul’da brand new edge to world music, and B Sonbahar and Bana Öyle Bakma. draws in fans with her high-energy stage ENKA Vakfı, Sadi Gülçelik Spor Sitesi, İstinye. performance. T: 0212 705 6000. Off map. Nominated for Best Latin Jazz Album at Galata Mevlevihanesi the 56th Grammy Awards, and known as Sema Ceremony, 13 Jul, 5pm: The famous the Queen of Flamenco, Buika will sema (whirling dervish) ceremony is an expession perform songs from her latest album, of Mevlana’s spiritual world, with its values of tolerance, inner freedom, love and joy. including Ne Me Quitte Pas and galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov. tr. Throw It Away. Galip Dede Cad. 15, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 4141. D5. Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu Rock Legend T: 0212 232 1652. Open-Air Theatre Canadian rock legend Neil Young, with a career spanning 45 years, performs with his Kardeş Türküler with Sezen Aksu and Ara band Crazy Horse on 15 July at Küçükçiftlik Park (p. 23). Dinkjian, 3 Jul, 9pm: Sezen Aksu and Ara Dinkjian

22 WHERE İstanbul I july 2014 july 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 23 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

JAZZ FESTIVAL 21st İstanbul Jazz Festival 1-16 Jul. Once again, the prestigious İstanbul Q & A Jazz Festival brings the top names in jazz and other contemporary musical genres to venues all Leo Tardin around the city. Creating a masterful blend of piano Austrian Cultural Office Four In The Pocket, 1 Jul, 9:30pm: One of the and percussion, the Swiss pianist is a most dynamic bands on the Turkish jazz scene kicks seasoned nu-jazz musician the likes off the festival, with jazz interpretations on soul, of which the modern jazz world has hip-hop and R&B songs.www.bmeia.gv.at. Köybaşı rarely seen. Performing at Akbank Cad. 44, Yeniköy. T: 0212 363 8415. Off map. Sanat (to 3 Jul), Tardin was kind Basketmakers’ Kiosk enough to speak with us about his art. Rumi Suite – The Eternal Day, 2 Jul, 9:15pm: Zülfü Livaneli’s work featuring English translations What does music mean to you? of Rumi’s poetry is set to a blend of jazz and To me, music is a universal language through traditional Turkish music, performed by composer which one can reach someone else’s soul, and pianist Henning Schmiedt. Hoca Paşa Mah. and make them tap their feet. Fatih. T: 0212 512 1001. Off map. Sakıp Sabancı Museum Boğaziçi University South Campus Cécile McLorin Salvant, 11 Jul, 10:45pm: Hailed Meetings with Masters: Salman Gambarov, as an extension of the Big Three – Billie Holiday, Önder Focan, Şenova Ülker, Fatih Ahıskalı, 16 Sarah Vaughan and Ella Fitzgerald – jazz vocalist Jul, 9:30pm: The festival draws to a close with McLorin Salvant performs from her latest album, a performance by the creator of Bakustic jazz, Woman Child. muze.sabanciuniv.edu. Sakıp with pianist Gambarov, jazz vocalist İbrahimova, Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. guitarist Focan, Ülker on trumpet and oud virtuoso Off map. Ahıskalı. Bebek. T: 0212 359 5400. Off map. Santralistanbul Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall Shoreline Amphitheatre Mozdzer Danielsson – Fresco Trio, 3 Jul, 9pm: Manu Katche, Richard Bona, Sefano Di Battista, Polish pianist Leszek Mozdzer takes the stage Eric Legnini, 7 Jul, 9:15pm: The four great names together with Swedish bassist Lars Danielsson and in the world of jazz share the stage in İstanbul for Israeli percussionist Zohar Fresco. www.crrks.org. the first time ever. www.santralistanbul.org. Eski Darülbedayi Cad. Harbiye. T: 0212 232 9830. B6. Silahtarağa Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. What does music mean to you? Feriye Lokantası To me, music is a universal language through Hugh Masekela, 14 Jul, 10pm: Twice Grammy Salon İKSV which one can reach someone else’s soul, winner Masekela is one of Africa’s most significant Thomas Enhco Trio Feat. Cenk Erdoğan, 2 and make them tap their feet. jazz musicians, blending South African sounds with Jul, 9:15pm: Thomas Enco and composer Cenk a contemporary style. www.feriye.com. Çırağan Erdoğan share the stage with a blend of jazz, Which musicians and composers do you Cad. 40, Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 2216. Off map. classical music, pop and world music. Stryjo admire? Feat. Fakih Kademoğlu, 3 Jul, 9.30pm: Polish trio Haliç Convention Center Miles Davis and Claude Debussy, for being Stryjo performs with Kademoglu, incorporating such visionaries and staying true to their art. Mehliana feat. Brad Mehldau and Mark traditional instruments with electro-acoustic music. Guiliana, 8 Jul, 7pm: One of the most creative Timuçin Şahin Quartet Feat Escreet, Rainey Which of your concerts have left jazz pianists in history, Mehldau and his drummer and Brewer, 9 Jul, 9:30pm: Making a name for the best memories? Guiliana perform their Mehliana project. Chick himself with his album Bafa ve Inherence, Şahin

During a US tour in 2008, we played at Corea – Stanley Clarke Duet, 8 Jul, 9:30pm: joins jazz pianist and composer John Escreet. legendary venues including the Filmore The legendary jazz musicians put in an acoustic Şirin Soysal feat. Frode Haltlı, 10 Jul, 9:30pm: performance of group and solo pieces over the in San Francisco, and the Roxy in West Singer and lyricist Soysal shares the stage with course of their careers. Behind the Hilton Hotel, Hollywood. This was a very special tour with Norwegian accordionist Haltli. Elvan Aracı Harbiye. T: 0212 232 1652. A6. truly warm audiences. Quartet Feat Dilek S. Erdoğan + Per-Ola Gadd, Tell us about your repertoire for your Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu 11 Jul, 10:30pm: Major Turkish jazz artist Aracı joins Swedish contrabassist Gadd and vocalist concerts at Akbank Sanat. Open-Air Theatre Erdoğan in a concert featuring Erdoğan’s own I’ll be performing pieces from my debut solo Hugh Laurie with The Copper Bottom Band, : The British actor, comedian and arrangements. Rusconi Feat. Erdem Helvacıoğlu, piano album Dawnscape. I use pieces from 9 Jul, 9.30pm musician shares his passion for jazz and the blues 14 Jul, 9:30pm: Swiss pianist Rusconi and his band this album to improvise from, and I can see with this band. Katie Melua, 10 Jul, 9.30pm: The welcome composer Helvacıoğlu. influences from jazz pianist Keith Jarrett, folk Anglo/Georgian singer songwriter performs blues www.iksv.org. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, Şişhane. artist Nick Drake and Leonard Cohen. songs from throughout her career, from her 2003 T: 0212 334 0841. C5. album Call Off The Search to her latest recording, Which İstanbul places have impressed Guitar Festival Ketevan. Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. you the most? T: 0212 232 1652. A6. KüçükÇiftlik Park The Pera Palace Jumeriah Hotel is a lovely 1st Yavuz Çetin Guitar Festival, 5 Jul, 5pm: introduction to İstanbul’s nostalgic, magical KüçükÇiftlik Park This festival is held in memory of master guitarist atmosphere. I was also very impressed by the The Canadian Stage: Kellylee Evans, 12 Jul, Yavuz Çetin, popularly referred to as the ‘golden grace and beauty of the Blue Mosque; the food 6:30pm: Providing a special stage this year for boy’ of Turkish rock. This year’s festival welcomes Canadian musicians, the Festival welcomes Evans as here can also be quite an experience! Pentagram, Teoman, Ogün Sanlısoy, Bulutsuzluk its first guest of the evening. Özlemi, Moğollar, Fuat Güner, Aylin Aslım, Kurtalan Akbank Sanat, İstiklal Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. www.kucukciftlikpark.com. Kadırgalar Yokuşu 5, Ekspres, Pilli, Bebek, Sahte Rakı, TT Blues Band, and T: 0212 252 3500. www.akbanksanat.com. Maçka. T: 0212 231 3045. B6. many more. www.kucukciftlikpark.com. Kadırgalar Yokuşu 5, Maçka. T: 0212 231 3045. B6.

24 WHERE İstanbul I july 2014 july 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 23 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE Duble Meze Bar asparagus tempura and Peking duck roll; they also MEYHANE & FASIL Duble is on the terrace of a building given to the make a mean Bloody Mary. Daily 12pm-2am. Elmadağ Meyhanesi Italian musician Giuseppe Donizetti, as a gift by www.group-29.com. Keeping traditional meyhane culture alive, this Sultan Abdülmecit. The menu specialises in mezes Ahmet Adnan Saygun Cad. Ulus Parkı içi 71/1 Ulus. charming meyhane serves a selection of traditional made with seasonal vegetables and seafood. T: 0212 265 6181. Off map. Turkish, Greek and Armenian mezes, and almost Wed, Fri and Sat nights are livened up by the music 360istanbul Suada Club certainly something you haven’t tried before. Every of DJ Aslı Köse. Sun-Thu 7pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6.30pm- Unique delicious cuisine, a warm ambience and Friday and Saturday a live band plays old classical 2am.www.dublemezebar.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. a wonderful Bosphorus view combine with great Turkish favourites as well as modern popular songs. 85A, Palazzo Donizetti, Pera, Beyoğlu. music and house cocktails like the lifeguard and Mon-Thu 6:30pm-12am. Fri & Sat 6:30pm-1am. T: 0212 244 0188. C5. Pink Bikini in a lively, tropical atmosphere. www.elmadagmeyhanesi.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. Sıdıka Daily 10am-1pm. www.360istanbul.com. Pak Apt. 30/A, Elmadağ, Taksim. With its quiet music and simple, wooden interior, Suada Club, Kuruçeşme Park, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 241 0320. B6. Sıdıka’s menu is inspired by healthy Aegean T: 0212 2636623. Off map. Galata Meyhanesi cuisine. There’s special focus on the cuisine of Anjelique This meyhane serves the flavours of Turkish cuisine Cunda, an island across from the town of Ayvalık, Three-storey venue overlooking the Bosphorus, a as well as fasıl music, with a four-member group settled by immigrants from Crete. combination of restaurant, club and bar. The sea- including violin, kanun, oud and drum providing Try the special shrimp and sea bream mezes. level floor offers the exotic flavours of East Asia, a quintessentially Turkish atmosphere. Mon-Sat Mon-Sat 5pm-12am. www.sidika.com.tr. while the middle and top floors serve fine French 7.30pm-00.30am. www.galata.com.tr. Şair Nedim Cad. 38, Beşiktaş. dishes. Different music on each floor, sometimes Orhan Adli Apaydın Sok. 5/A, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 259 7232. A7 / B7. by well-known DJs. Daily 6.30pm-4am. T: 0212 293 1139. C5. www.anjelique.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Garibaldi Meyhanesi Bars & Clubs Sok. 5, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 2844. A9. Named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, this Beyoğlu 29 Food Bar Arabesque meyhane serves a rich selection of Turkish mezes Ulus 29 Lounge’s new reincarnation, 29 Food Bar Presenting a new twist on the typical Lebanese and features a fine group of musicians playing the maintains its impressive elegance with its stylish restaurant with its predictable hummus, belly best of Turkish classical music for a classic İstanbul décor and objects d’art. Must-tries include their dancers and oriental glitz, Arabesque successfully evening out. www.garibaldi.com.tr. Mon-Sat 10am -1am. Perukar Çıkmazı 3, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. T: 0535 719 0343. C5.

Kalamata Meyhane Sortie’s Tavern took its new name after its relocation to Akaretler. Its warm atmosphere and simple interior become even more inviting with live music performances five days a week. The venue is run by one of the few female tavern owners in Turkey, Beyza Gürbüzer, who also prepares the mezes herself. Daily 7:30pm-4am. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 258 8788. Off map.

Latife Hanım Meyhanesi This meyhane with its ‘Republican’ theme is full of photographs of Atatürk and modern women Dance to the World’s of the new Turkish Republic, with Turkish classical songs playing round the clock. The meze selection is quite varied; make sure to sample the topik and Top DJ’s lakerda. Sun-Thu 12pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am. www.latifehanim.com. An İstanbul classic, Ulus 29 with a view of the city’s two cross- İstiklal Cad. Bekar Sok. 22/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 0068. C5.

Bosphorus bridges, is a place you’ll never want to leave. Safi Meyhane This modern meyhane in Şişhane serves mezes lus 29 starts as a fine-dining on Tuesday nights. in the bar as well as the dining room. Home-style restaurant, morphing into a terrace The fun really starts at Club 29 on dishes feature for lunch, and the mezes include bar and nightclub after dinner. weekend nights, where international guests new flavours plus the venerable classics. Music U ranges from 70s and 80s Turkish pop and classical. With its informal but elegant including famous regulars add a touch of www.safimeyhane.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. 84, atmosphere, the Teras pizzazz, making it one of the world’s most Şişhane. T: 0530 240 4908. C4. Bar offers a youthful, famous nightclubs. Sam Young, one of dynamic atmosphere London’s best club DJs, U2’s official modern meyhanes where music is at DJ Matteo, Les Caves du Roy’s DJ Aheste the forefront. The Jacky E, Tramp’s DJs Fitz Brown This warm, retro-style restaurant offers 20 different bar menu features and Dan Williams are just a few of mezes from Turkey, Iran, Armenia and Greece, Amazing Cocktails finger foods and the famous names spinning the including favourites such as calamari with hummus, Featuring an open, airy design, Beyoğlu’s funky new café bar Curcuna is a marvel of a wide variety discs here. sweetbreads and artichoke confite. There are colourful design with its fun concept, unparalleled view and epic atmosphere. The of cocktails. DJs, live jazz performances to enhance the evening. Daily 9am-1am. all-day menu with its street food, burgers and light bites, with striking presentation, is and an exciting Adnan Saygun Cad. Ulus Parkı İçi www.ahestegalata.com. Hacı Mimi Mah. backed up by a choice of 100 exclusive house cocktails. variety of other 71/1, Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929. Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad. 30A, Beyoğlu. www.kafepi.com. Refik Saydam Cad. 5, Beyoğlu. T: 0532 316 0500. entertainment, feature www.group-29.com. T: 0212 245 4345. C5.

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Bird Garajistanbul Unique flavours from world cuisines are served up A contemporary performance arts centre located in a warm atmosphere dominated by music from in Beyoğlu, staging a variety of performances inc the 50s and 60s. The menu here features mostly theatre, dance, festivals, exhibitions, and concerts. meat dishes with impressive portions, such as steak Daily 8:30pm-2am. www.garajistanbul.org. Tomtom tartare and green curries, with their own special Mah. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok. cocktails. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm. www.bird.com.tr. 11/A, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. Meşrutiyet Cad. 103, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. Gaspar T: 0212 245 7085. C4.. Located in an old three-storey, high-ceilinged Bleu Lounge & Grill building, Karaköy venue is always full to With a Bosphorus view and comfortable ambience, overflowing thanks to its quality French food Bleu serves tempting cocktails and gourmet and great music. Mon-Thu 10am-12am. Fri&Sat flavours all day long. In addition, they feature a 10am-4am. Müeyyeyzade Mah. Necatibey Cad. different style of live music every day of the week. Arapoğlan Sok. 6, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 6660. D5. Daily 10am-2am. www.ritzcarlton.com. Ritz Carlton, İstanbul, Askerocağı Cad. 6, Şişli. Gold Bar Gold Bar has a brilliant, six-metre long aquarium. T: 0212 334 4188. B6. The main area, available for small parties, is Bronx Pi Sahne flanked by a comfortable seating area with low This venue generally features live performances sofas. This welcoming venue also features a lush from rock bands. Highly popular among people green terrace, a perfect place to take a pleasant of all ages and groups. Fri&Sat 9pm-4am. break from the bustle of city life. Daily 9am-2am. www.cafepi.com. İstiklal Cad. Terkos Çıkmazı 8/1, Every Wed&Fri 7pm-11pm Lounge / Chill Out DJ Beyoğlu. T: 0531 384 80 80. C5. sessions. www.editionhotels.com. Relaxed and The İstanbul Edition Hotel, Büyükdere Cad. 136, Chilai Levent. T: 0212 317 7700. Off map. Quirky Located directly on the Bosphorus, the venue brings a breath of fresh air to İstanbul’s nightlife Hayal Kahvesi The slick nightspot Rehab İstanbul with its unusual contemporary décor and This popular venue hosts live performances by is set to become one of this bold dishes prepared by renowned chefs. The different bands every night. summer’s favourite spots with its three-floor dining complex includes a sushi bar, www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com.tr. neon lights, Michael Jackson and bistro, lounge, bar, dining room, pastry shop, Hayal Kahvesi Beyoğlu, Daily 4pm-4am. İstiklal Cad. Madonna posters, DJs and live music c h a r c u t e r i e a n d a r t g a l l e r y . M o n - S a t 1 0 p m - 2 a m . Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2558. C5. www.chilai.com.tr. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 60, Bebek. Hayal Kahvesi Çubuklu, Daily 4pm-4am. performances. Cool down with its T: 0212 263 6315. Off map. There are 2 restaurants; Tapas and İstanbul Balık. most popular cocktails, the Rehab www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. Summer and Long Island Iced Tea. Corridor Burunbahçe, Eski Gazhane Binaları, Çubuklu. This dark and intimate bar located in the deepest T: 0216 413 6880. Off map. Meşrutiyet Cad. 69/A, Tepebaşı. corner of the Milli Reasürans Çarşısı (market) hosts T: 0545 300 3434. art shows and photographic exhibitions. House Hodjapasha Culture Center www.rehabistanbul.com music during weekdays changes to 80s tunes later This cultural centre located in the historic in the evening; alternative rock and popular hits Hocapaşa Hamam presents an ever-changing from the 80s and 90s dominate the sounds during series of exhibitions and performances, presenting weekends. Mon-Sat 5pm-1.30am. Milli Reasürans the finest examples of Turkish culture. The brick combines the oriental spirit with contemporary Çarşısı, 47-48, Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nişantaşı. and stone building with its high central dome hosts nightlife. With walls decorated by famous Beirut T: 0212 343 0241. A6. many fascinating events including the Mevlevi graffiti artist Yahya Muhakkin. Daily 8pm-2am Sema Ceremony (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 7.30pm) Taşkışla Cad. 19, Demokrasi Parkı Yanı, Maçka. Çubuklu 29 and the Hodja Pasha Dance Show (Tue & Thur T: 0212 231 0356. B6. Overlooking the Bosphorus, Çubuklu 29 occupies 8pm, Sat & Sun 9pm) performed by the Hocapaşa a spacious building illuminated by lanterns. In Babylon Dance Team. www.hodjapasha.com. Ankara Cad. addition to its pool open during the day. Tandoori Hocapaşa Hamamı Sok. 3B, Sirkeci. Enjoy concerts, an extensive menu, cocktail lamb, pilaf with almonds and grilled meatballs are T: 0212 511 4626/4636. E5. pitchers, electro, house, chill out and world just some of the specialties on offer. music. Daily 8pm-4am. www.babylon.com.tr. Daily 6pm-3am. www.cubuklu29.com. Indigo Asmalımescit, Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. Barbaros Cad.Paşabahçe Yolu 22, Çubuklu. Known as a temple of electronic music, this club T: 0212 292 7368. C5. T: 0216 322 2829. Off map. offers a vibrant programme based on alternative and electronic music, with new sounds and Babylon Lounge Fenix İstanbul One of New York’s most cutting edge music reflecting the developments in the world of This restaurant and nightclub, with a magnificent music. Fri, Sat 11pm-5am. venues, Babylon Lounge is a place where young high-ceilinged bar decorated with palm trees, musicians create, discuss, meet the masters, and www.livingindigo.com. İstiklal Cad. Akarsu Sok. serves dishes from around the world. One of the Mısır Apt. 1/2/4/5, Galatasaray. develop new ideas and projects. With its own city’s most elegant spots, it offers some of the T: 0212 244 8568. C5. unique musical scene, its stage is open to anyone finest food and DJ performances anywhere. and everyone making good music. www.fenixistanbul.com. Thu-Sat noon-4am. Jolly Joker İstanbul Mon-Sat 10pm-2am. www.babylon.com.tr. Sun-Wed noon-2am. Nispetiye Cad. 79, Etiler. With its fine acoustics and infrastructure, this Jurnal Sok. 4, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 245 3800. C5. T: 0212 265 5588. Off map. is a groundbreaking venue in sound quality in Biber Bar Turkey. Among the many genres performed are Fosil live electronic, acoustic, funk, pop, rock, hip hop, Homely atmosphere suitable for dinner and drinks With its unusual retro décor and unique cocktails with jazz or lounge music in the background. The house and techno. Mon-Sat 9:30pm-2am. such as Libido and Oh Papatya, Fosil is the perfect www.jjistanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, menu of mainly İstanbul and Southern American place for a night of rock music, from Jim Morrison Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 0749. C5. cuisines includes steaks to burgers, salads, tapas, to Elvis, The Beatles and Guns N’ Roses. filet mignon and chicken shish kebab. Mon & Tue 4pm-midnight. Wed-Sat 4pm-4am. Kiki Daily L & D & N. www.biberbar.com. www.fosil.com.tr. Kemankeş Cad. 34/C, K:3, Cocktails made with homemade syrups, a Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. Off map. Karaköy. T: 0507 812 8531. D5. comfortable environment and great music come

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together at this gastropub featuring Italian, chicken plus salads and desserts. Mon-Sat 8:30am- in the city, and housing six restaurants, Suada Club overlooking the Bosphorus, are followed by live Spanish and world cuisine. DJs play every night. 1:30am. www.nardisjazz.com. Galata Kulesi Sok. 8, is sure be a hot spot this year as well. An ideal spot percussion and dance shows. The deluxe drink Tue-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri & Sat 5pm-5am, Sun Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. for an aperitif after work, the middle bar of Suada menu serves a host of original, tempting cocktails. 5pm-midnight. www.kiki.com.tr. Kiki Sıraselviler, Club entertains its guests throughout the summer Daily 11pm-5am.Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Kuruçeşme. Nomads Sıraselviler Cad. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 5373. C5. with live performances. www.suadaclub.com.tr. T: 0212 236 7256.Off map. At Nomads, dishes are served with pita bread on Kiki Ortaköy, Osmanzade Sok. 8, Ortaköy. Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 7300. Off map. large brass trays, accompanied by DJ Hakan’s Hittaera T: 0212 258 5524. Off map. sublime mix of Arab and Western music. With a Sultana’s 1001 Nights Show Playing Turkish songs from past to present, this Le Fumoir Pavillion bright, airy garden surrounded by alcoves with Venue offering authentic Turkish-themed shows. venue hosts prominent DJs, plus top cocktails and This Bar In The Çırağan Palace Kempinski pillows and couches, and Bosphorus views from the Tables surround a raised centre stage, featuring nonstop entertainment. Tue-Sat 11:30pm-4am. İstanbul boasts a splendid view directly onto the top floor. Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am. shows that begin with belly-dancing, followed by Meşrutiyet Cad. 89/A, across from the Pera Palas bosphorus. With palm trees, water pipe service www.nomads.nl. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. folk dances and a harem show. Ottoman Cuisine. Hotel, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 594 1139. C4. and comfortable seating, the venue exudes T: 0212 258 0777. A9. Daily 9am-5am. www.sultanasb-nights.com. Romance Savour, premium cognacs, malt whiskies, Cumhuriyet Cad. 40/D, Elmadağ. Off Pera Nupera A popular venue for musicians and actors, Off exclusive wines, champagnes, and cocktails. T: 0212 219 3904. B6. Daily 7/24. www.kempinski.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, Launched in 2001 in the 200 year-old Passage Pera provides a nonstop programme of Turkish de Petit Champs, Nupera houses a variety of Supper Club music. This pop spot in Beyoğlu’s Asmalımescit Beşiktaş. T: 0212 326 4646. Off Map. restaurants, a bar and private club with an open Part of a chain launched in Amsterdam, this neighbourhood holds different themes through Limoncello terrace during the summer – something for nightclub offers electronic, chill out, funk and the week: Tuesday nights with Asu Maro, selections Named after the famous Italian liqueur, this everyone. Daily 6pm-12am. Fri&Sat 6pm-4am. house music, and an alternative menu. Daily from classical, opera and famous musicals by exclusive boutique nightspot boasts colourful www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, 11:30pm-5am. www.supperclub.com. Muallim Naci Güvenç Dağüstün on Wednesdays. furniture under lemon trees, fresh fruit cocktails, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 1988. A9. Daily 4pm-4am. Gönül Sok. Canova Apartmanı and performances by top name DJs. Tue-Sat 14/A, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 249 2697. C4. 10pm-3am. www.limoncello.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Orient Bar Topless Teras Breakfast, Turkish and Mediterranean treats and a This popular İstiklal Caddesi meeting spot at the Scotch Disco Cad. 34, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 9822. B7. wide variety of snack dishes served on an elegant. top of the Fitaş building boasts a terrace with a With a 20-year history, this venue offers Turkish Lucca The meals are complemented by original cocktails magnificent view over the Golden Horn, with a music and DJs, offering the unique experience of Spacious restaurant-bar with ample armchairs, long plus domestic and foreign wines served all day. host of special events including tango dances on the music halls of the 1980s. Serves beer and fresh wooden tables and a high ceiling, serving as a café Daily 10pm-2am. www.jumeirah.com. Pera Palace Wednesday nights. Daily 5pm-2am. İstiklal Cad. 12, popcorn. Daily 10:30pm-5am. until 7pm, after which the menu offers a blend of Hotel Jumeriah, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, K:6, Fitaş Binası. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2451. C4. www.scotchclub.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 29/1, world cuisines and the DJ performance takes over. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 3774000. C4. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 5696. A6. This is one of İstanbul’s most popular bars, and Unter, Karaköy popular with the after-work crowd. Daily 10am- Pop Unter’s ground floor is a café, the next is a lounge, Şamdan Etiler 2am. www.luccastyle.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 51/B, This venue in Nupera has something to suit every and the top floor a party space. Try the Caipiroska Offering a magnificent interior and selections taste, playing top hits from the 80s to the present. cocktail with Jaegermeister, and the long relaxed from world cuisines, Şamdan turns into a popular Bebek. T: 0212 257 1255. Off map. With its informal atmosphere and great selection Sunday breakfasts. Private overnight parties with entertainment spot at night. The evening starts Masquerade Club of drinks, Pop has become one of the most popular music by DJs promise great entertainment until with soft chansons, replaced by disco hits as the Famous R&B singers and DJs from Turkey and spots in Pera. Wed, Fri, Sat 12am-4am. dawn. Tue-Thu 9am-12am, Fri 9am-2am, Sat 9am- night progresses. Daily 8:30pm-5am. abroad perform music from around the world www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı. 2am, Sun 9am-10pm. www.unter.com.tr. www.etilersamdan.com. Nispetiye Cad. 92, Etiler. at this new club with a capacity of 2000. Making T: 0212 245 6070. C4. Kemankeş, Karaali Kaptan Sok. 4, Karaköy, Beyoğlu. Office: İhsan Aksoy Sok. 5/8, Çamlık, Etiler. a name for itself with its unusual concepts and T: 0212 244 5151. D5. T: 0212 257 3042. Off map. performances, Masquerade creates a visual and Propaganda musical celebration. Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 11pm-5am. Propaganda, with its stylish interior by Spanish W Lounge Zelda Zonk Yıldız Posta Cad. Sinan Pasajı No:38/26 Gayrettepe. architect David Garcia, lives up spectacularly to One of the trendiest spots in İstanbul, hosting a Newly opened on the upper floor of the Gradiva T: 0212 347 1347. Mobile: 0533 027 0387. its motto: ‘good food, good music’. It boasts a multitude of parties accompanied by fine music. Hotel overlooking the Golden Horn, Zelda Zonk delicious selection of international dishes, live Extensive menu, stylish decoration and has a simple menu, but after 11pm it turns into a mas queradeistanbul.com. Off map. music on weeknights and DJ performances on ambiance. Tue-Sat 24 hours. www.wistanbul.com.tr. bar with DJ performances until dawn. Mon-Sat Members İstanbul weekends. Daily 11am-3am.İstiklal Cad, Suriye Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. 10pm-4am.www.gradivahotels.com. Bankalar Cad. An impressive-looking Bosphorus nightspot where, Pasajı, 166/10, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 7181. C5. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. 2/1, Karaköy. T: 0530 382 3822. D4. the excellent DJs play mostly Turkish hits, with the fun continuing until the first arrival of dawn. Public House Zarifi Restaurant Zilly Pera Tue-Sat 10pm-4am. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. This cosy pub is ideally equipped to host parties Prepared daily, menus feature 80 selections Falling somewhere in between a disco and and other special events. The cold and hot snacks, from the best of Armenian, Greek, Jewish, Arab, nightclub, Zilly is one of Istanbul’s most popular T: 0212 236 7357. Off map. shots and pitcher cocktails are delicious. Turkish and Levantine cuisines. The restaurant is music spots. Sporting a 70s atmosphere, Zilly Minimüzikhol Daily 8am-2am. Asmalımescit Mah. 9, Beyoğlu. also known for its wide range of music, from old keeps the fun going until dawn with old and new If you’re out to avoid ‘subculture’. Set your own T: 0534 211 6062. C4. İstanbul songs to Sephardic, Greek and jazz music. Turkish songs. Tue-Sat 11pm-4:30am. Meşrutiyet trend and dance to world music, local sounds and Daily 7:30pm-4am. www.zarifi.com.tr. Cad. 69, Beyoğlu. T: 0533 575 3397. C4. electronic beats, then check out this new spot Sofyalı 9 Çukurlu Çeşme Sok. 13, Sıraselviler, Beyoğlu. Very popular two-storey restaurant with the in hip Cihangir. DJ performances, special events T: 0212 293 5480. Mobile: 0530 773 1673 C5. and a very unique atmosphere created by to its atmosphere of an Aegean-Mediterranean taverna. wıne bars Greek music and cuisine including a choice of 33 unusual decor. 11pm-4am. www.minimuzikhol.com. Rouge Sıraselviler Cad. Soğancı Sok. 7, Cihangir. meze (appetizers). Mon-Sat 12pm-1am. TURKISH MUSIC www.sofyali.com. Asmalımescit, Sofyalı Sok. 9, Located near Taksim Square, this classic wine T: 0212 245 1996. C5. Cahide Cümbüş bar has over 260 Turkish and foreign wines, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0362. C5. Guests are given different J&B keys with accompanied by local cheeses, appetizers and Mojo Just off İstiklal Caddesi and much frequented by Sortie designs based on the concept of each room at main courses. Pleasant atmosphere, with walls artists and writers, Mojo is loved for its alternative Located in the old bosphorus neighbourhood of Cahide, which takes a very unique approach filled with art. Daily 10am-2am. Lamartin Cad. 11/3, rock, jazz, ethnic and rock music as well as live Kuruçeşme. Sortie welcomes its guests with Turkish to entertainment. Bellboys take guests and Taksim. T: 0212 237 0190. B6. music by local and foreign bands on Mon-Sat music on Wednesdays and R&B on Sunday nights. their luggage to the selected rooms. Fairy tale Daily 7pm-4am. www.sortie.com.tr. Muallim Naci characters approach in an erotic and humorous Sensus Wine & Cheese Boutique 10pm-4am. Daily 12am-4am. Owned by the Anemon Hotels, Sensus doubles www.mojobeyoglu.com. Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 26, Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 327 8585. Off map. way. In the wee hours, Cahide’s show team presents a wet dance performance under a shower. as a wine and cheese shop. Close to the historic Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2927. C5. Suada Club Daily 7pm-2am. Kadırgalar Cad. Maçka Demokrasi Galata Tower, this typical wine bar boasts İstanbul residents and visitors alike take refuge exclusively local cheeses and wines. Daily 10am- Nardis Jazz Club Parkı içi 2, Maçka. T: 0532 513 7789. B6. A true jazz club for real local jazz fans, with live from the heat of summer in the soft Bosphorus 10pm. www.sensuswine.com. Anemon Hotel music nightly modern, ethnic and creative non-jazz breeze sweeping the pool and restaurants of Suada Club Albüm Galata, Bereketzade, Büyükhendek Cad. 5, works. Extensive menu inc finger food, steak and Club. Easily accessible thanks to its central location Turkish pop parties every night, at this nightspot Kuledibi. T: 0212 245 5657. D4.

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Soulful Designs

The Kaf’dan by Elaidi Summer Collection, signed by Mehtap Elaidi creates a dynamic, simple silhouette for today’s urban woman. The Collection is striking for its harmony between black and white, youthful touches, and masterful blends of textures and designs.

he collection’s name, Cynara, is the The two basic colours of every season, botanical name of the black and white, are also accompanied Tartichoke, which by green. The collection consists opens into an amazing of easily combined pieces with flower. Serving as a variety of cuts. Creating an inspiration, a peaceful impression this floral image overall, it features pleated shows up in details, sometimes various forms appearing on a single- throughout shouldered poplin dress, the pieces, or adding volume to sometimes wide-legged trousers. embroidered, at other times as a Valikonağı Cad. Akkavak Sok. Hacı Ömer Apt. 18/1-2, Nişantaşı. design in crepe and T: 0212 232 1519. chiffon fabrics. www.mehtapelaidi.com

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galleries. With its national and international brands, SHOPPING CENTRE MAP pleasant cafes, restaurants and quality nightlife, it is a favourite area especially with İstanbul’s elite crowd. Nişantaşı lies at busy hub of several major streets (the busiest of which are Teşvikiye, Valikonağı and Rumeli Avenues) and it’s easy to get to, a quick dolmuş ride from Taksim Square. A6. SHOPPING CENTRES Addresİstanbul With a host of leading Turkish and foreign home furnishing and houseware stores offering, hundreds of brands, this shopping centre has everything you need to decorate an entire flat in a single day. Take a break for a delicious treat at Kitchenette Restaurant, and enjoy live music on Sundays. Daily 10am-7pm. www.addresistanbul.com. Halide Edip Adıvar Bulvarı Mah. Çiftecevizler Deresi Sok. 4, Şişli. T: 0212 320 6262. Off map.

Akasya Acıbadem This largest shopping mall on İstanbul's Asian side offers famous world brands, 10 movie theatres, a concert hall, a theatre, and Kidzania, where children can meet, play and take part in over 60 different activities. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ak-asya.com. Major Shopping Makers, Jewellers, Mirror Makers, etc. This is the Çeçen Sok. Koru Etabı, Koru Kule, K:36, 192, place for hand-woven carpets, jewellery, traditional Acıbadem. T: 0216 428 3132. Off map. Areas Turkish art, famous Turkish style silverware, copper, bronze giftware and decorative objects, ceramics, Akmerkez Akaretler Row Houses onyx, leather products and souvenirs from all over Offering the best local and foreign brands in Built in 1875 by Ottoman Sultan Abdülaziz, the Turkey. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. an elegant shopping atmosphere as well as an beautiful Akaretler Row Houses has a new lease on www.kapalicarsi.org.tr. Beyazıt-Eminönü. E4. array of entertainment and social venues, Joker life since its huge renovation. New life has been Entertainment Park promises a good time for breathed into this Beşiktaş neighbourhood and it’s Çukurcuma children and adults alike. Papermoon, located at now one of İstanbul’s foremost cultural quarters, World-renowned for its antique shops, this the Ulus entrance, serves Italian cuisine. offering a host of colourful art galleries, stylish area has the atmosphere of an old Ottoman Daily 10am-10pm. www.akmerkez.com.tr. cafés and restaurants, and a tempting selection neighbourhood. Antique shops are scattered Nispetiye Cad. Etiler. T: 0212 282 0170. of designer shops. Officially named Şair Nedim through the streets. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm. Sat-Sun Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Caddesi, this sloping street, with the W Hotel as 9am-7pm. Çukurcuma Cad. Firuzağa Mah. a prominent landmark, is lined with commercial Faik Paşa Cad. Turnacıbaşı Sok. Beyoğlu. Aqua Florya galleries such as Rampa, Art On Gallery and T: 0505 709 3857. C5. This shopping mall offering world-class brands and Galerist, and design house Autobahn. Find luxury entertainment hides an added surprise: The İstanbul Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar jewel-encrusted pieces at Sevan Bıçakçı, tasteful Aquarium, the largest thematic aquarium in the world. Alongside the New Mosque (Yeni Cami) and next linens and household items at Haremlique, and Learn about aquatic life in the world's oceans, lakes to the Flower Market, the Egyptian Bazaar is one of prepare for the Big Day at Vakko Wedding. Should and rivers, and enjoy a meal at one of the many cafes the oldest covered bazaars in İstanbul, renowned you need a break after all that browsing and and restaurants overlooking the Marmara Sea. for its herbalists. In addition to spices, Turkish shopping, tempting treats await at stylish Cafe Daily 10am-10pm. www.aquaflorya.com.tr. delight (lokum), and other souvenirs, natural Minyon (part of W Hotel), or taste top Turkish wines Şenlikköy Mah.Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. medicines, herbs, flower seeds, roots and barks of paired with cheeses at Corvus. T: 0212 574 5900. Off map. www.akaretler.com.tr. Süleymen Seba Cad. rare plants used in traditional medicine as well as a vast selection of dried nuts, delicatessen products Maçka, Beşiktaş. B7. and other food items are available. Mon-Sat Guidelines Bağdat Caddesi 8:30am-6:30pm. Eminönü Square. E4. Named after Murat IV’s successful campaign to This directory, grouped by category, is a list of recapture Baghdad, this posh street on İstanbul’s İstiklal Caddesi establishments recommended by the editors of Asian side extends from Kızıltoprak in Kadıköy to In the historical district of Beyoğlu, which was the Where Magazine and includes regular Cevizli in Maltepe. The section between Suadiye primary neighbourhood of the foreign community advertisers. and Caddebostan is especially well known for its as well as non-Muslim Ottoman subjects, Beyoğlu exclusive shops, cafés and restaurants frequented gradually attained a European look with the arrival MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references in bold at the end of by local youth and business people. Many top of foreign embassies as well as Christians from Galata, eventually forming a new community in each listing (A1; B5 etc) refer to the coordinates Turkish and world brands have at least one shop on the street maps on pages 70-71. here. Well served by public transportation, this 17th-century İstanbul. The allure of the street bustling street with its chic restaurants and cafes faded in the 1970s but was followed by major revival in early 1990s. It is now a the city’s major information is an excellent place to go window shopping and Visitors should note that Value Added Tax (VAT) entertainment district, full of bars, clubs, cafés, people watching. Off map. varies between 8% and 18% and is generally restaurants, and scores of top shopping brands. included in the price of goods. Overseas visitors Covered (Grand) Bazaar Beyoğlu. C5. can shop tax-free in Turkey recouping around 5 Built in 1461, this amazing complex, the world’s to 13% of these amounts, respectively. oldest shopping center, is a colossal maze taking Nişantaşı Look for shops with signs for Global Refund in 66 streets and 4,000 stores— all covered. Each Nişantaşı is both a lively and bustling (T: 0212 232 1121) and DSD Refund street in the Bazaar is named after the specific neighbourhood and an area known for its exclusive (T: 0212 546 0790). guild that once inhabited it, such as the Kalpak shopping centres, brand-name stores, malls and

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www.galleria-atakoy.com. Sahilyolu, Ataköy. SHOPPING CENTRE MAP T: 0212 559 9560. Off map.

İstanbul Cevahir The city centre’s largest shopping mall lets you shop any time you want. In addition to a slew of top-rated stores, it also boasts cafés and restaurants offering flavours from around the world, a movie theatre, state theatres and the Fun Lab Entertainment World for children. Daily 10am- 10pm. www.istanbulcevahir.com. Büyükdere Cad. 22/A, Şişli. T: 0212 368 6900. Off map.

İstinyePark In addition to the top brands this shopping centre offers, it stands out with its architecture. Designed to cater to a host of tastes and needs, it demonstrates a distinct concept with 147 clothing stores and 43 world brands. Various theme areas including Brands Street, Nostalgic Marketplace and Children’s Entertainment Centre in addition to nearly 40 cafés and restaurants, and 12 movie theatres inc a 3D IMAX screen. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istinyepark.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5555. Shopping Centre Map (p.36).

Forumİstanbul In addition to shopping, Forum İstanbul offers an extensive choice of leisure activities. At the top of the list of attractions is Turkuazoo, Turkey's first and biggest aquarium. The mall also boasts a 10-screen movie theatre, a game and entertainment centre, bowling alley, play spaces for children and a host of dining choices. Look out for the newest addition: Jurassic Land, an 8000-m2 family entertainment centre set due to open later this year. Daily 10am- 10pm. www.forumistanbul.com.tr. Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 443 1350. Shopping Centre Map (p.38).

Kanyon Major shopping centre with 160 stores, 9 movie theatres and a health and sports club. Pleasant atmosphere offering the best Turkish and world brands, gourmet restaurants, cafés, open air performances and dazzling colours and sounds. Ataköy Plus 10am-10pm. www.capitol.com.tr. Mahir İz Cad. Restaurants and cafés in Kanyon offer early Ataköy Plus Shopping Centre is open to Altunizade, Üsküdar. T: 0216 554 7777. Off map. breakfasts and late dinners. Daily 10am-10pm. www.kanyon.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. exploration with an architectural aesthetics, City’s T: 0212 317 5300. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). spacious circulation spaces, and special services City’s Nişantaşı is a centre of fashion and style. that make shopping an insatiable experience. Leading national and international brands, Mall of İstanbul Situated on the coastal road only five minutes from delightful cafés and restaurants, dazzling Offering both indoor and outdoor street shopping, the Atatürk International Airport, Ataköy Plus offers architecture. Entertainment for children and 7 this mall contains around 350 shops, elegant 140 brands original designs. www.atakoyplus.com. movie theatres. Citylife’s cinema foyer with its gourmet restaurants, cinemas, arts events and Daily 10am-10pm. Adnan Kahveci Bulvarı, peerless sea view adds to the pleasure. The fun MoiPark for children. One of Turkey’s largest Ataköy 6. Kısım Ataköy, Bakırköy. lasts late into the evening. Daily 10am-10pm. shopping malls, it also features the Traditional Art Street offering examples of Turkish art. T: 0212 661 7515. Off map. www.citysnisantasi.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Daily 10am-10pm. www.mallofistanbul.com.tr Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. Capacity Süleyman Demirel Bulvarı, Mahmutbey, Four-storey shopping centre with 180 stores Demirören İstiklal Başakşehir. T: 0212 801 1000. Off map. carrying Turkish and foreign brands. Sephora, Opened upon the rebuilding of the Sin-Em Han, Marmara Forum Banana Republic, Gap and many more brands cater home in the 1930s to the famous Saray pudding shop and the Lüks cinema, this 25,000 square The Marmara Forum shopping centre is home to to a vast range of tastes while Electro World serves metre venue is home to a host of famous shops world brands, and brings new ideas and trends technology-savvy customers. including Sephora, Brandroom, the Satürn to Turkey. In addition to famous men’s, women’s Fast food, restaurants and movie theaters. technology chain, the Gap and Atasun Optik. and kids’ clothing and lingerie brands – including Daily 10am-10pm. www.capacity.com.tr. Daily 10am-10pm.www.demirorenistiklal.com. Massimo Dutti, Benetton, Mango, Lacoste, DKNY, Zeytinlik Mah. Fişekhane Cad. 7, Bakırköy. GAP and Armani Kids – you’ll also find top national T: 0212 249 9999.İstiklal Cad. 52-54, Beyoğlu. C5. T: 0212 661 6705. Off map. and international jewellery brands like Atasay, Galleria Gülaylar, Assos and Swarovski. The mall is also Capitol A major shopping centre featuring world home to 15 cinemas, and the largest Food Court Major shopping and entertainment centre with brands as well as a broad range of restaurants, in İstanbul, with 65 different cafes and restaurants. stores, restaurants and fourteen movie theatres. entertainment, sports activities and striking And not forgetting the two separate terraces with Various activities organised every week. Daily interiors. Daily 10am-10pm. views of the Marmara Sea. Daily 10am-10pm.

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www.antikpalace.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. Loomart Talimyeri Sok. 2, Maçka. T: 0212 236 2460. B7. When it comes to aesthetics, LoomArt is Horhor Antique Centre committed to the best in carpet design. Its SHOPPING CENTRE MAP huge collection includes unusual antique pieces This seven-storey building is famous with local from Kerman, Konya and Tabriz (Iran), funky antique collectors, and each object here has a contemporary pieces with bold designs and bright story, from armour worn by an English knight in colours, and woven kilims. Some of its larger his last battle, to the massive armchair of a French creations as the Pera Palace Hotel, and residence aristocrat. Daily 10am-6pm. www.horhor.com. of the President of Turkey! Daily 8:30am-7:30pm. Kırk Tulumba Sok. 24, Horhor, Aksaray. E2. www.loomart.com. On the boutiques floor of Khaftan Art & Antique The Ritz-Carlton. Gümüşsuyu, Askerocağı Cad. 9, A delightful venue hosting a collection of fine Elmadağ. T: 0212 252 5095. B6. antiques and works by modern Turkish artists. Nakkaş Khaftan’s vast array includes Ottoman era textiles, In İstanbul's old Sultanahmet district, there's a truly ceramics, silverworks, oriental paintings, books, remarkable store: Nakkaş. Built over a beautifully engravings and maps collected both in Turkey restored 6-century Byzantine cistern, Nakkaş and abroad. Also available are oil paintings by offers fine wearings, ceramics and jewellery in the contemporary Turkish artists, miniature paintings tradition of quality crafts manship. A visit to this and calligraphic art. Daily 9am-8pm. column-filled cistern is the first step to an exciting www.khaftan.com. Sultanahmet, Şifa Hamamı Sok. shopping adventure. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. 16, T: 0212 458 5425. F5. www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Sok. 13, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. Portakal Art And Culture House F4 / F5. The Portakal Family has contributed to Turkish arts and culture for three generations, since early 20th Clothing – Children century provide art consultancy services for private B&G Store museums, institutions and special collections. Own product range featuring collections from Mon-Sat 9am-7:30pm. www.rportakal.com. leading global brands in children’s clothing inc Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 8, Nişantaşı. www.marmara-forum.com.tr. Osmaniye, modern architecture, Sapphire presents a modern Patrizia Pepe, Bogner, Zu+Elements, Bikkembergs, T: 0212 225 4637. A6. Çobançeşme, Koşuyolu Bulvarı 3, Bakırköy. shopping experience with prestigious world Mariella Burani, Nebati bb, Baby Graziella, Phard T: 0212 414 9494. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). brands and entertainment. Daily 10am-10pm. Sahaflar Çarşısı Bebe, Killah, Riccione. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, Eski The oldest market to have survived from Ottoman www.bgstore.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe Metro City Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. T: 0212 268 8080. times, it is located on Beyazıt Square in the Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 6978. Accessible by subway, this shopping centre historical neighbourhood of Beyazıt, next to the Shopping Centre Map (p.38). offering world brands, restaurants, and book stores Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Grand Bazaar. A must-see for booklovers visiting is also popular for its regular events. Beymen Club Kid’s Story Trump Towers Mall the Grand Bazaar, with old and new Turkish and and Vakko stores offer top-line smart and smart- This mall that offers shopping, movies, a place to Garments and accessories for the 0-16 age group. foreign books, as well as old banknotes, coins and Knitwear, shoes, shirts, jackets, socks, hats and casual men’s and women’s clothing. Daily 10am- perform music, a gym and a convention hall also stamps. Eminönü, Çadırcılar Cad. 103-203, berets. Products by leading brands inc Burberry, 10pm. www.metrocity.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 171, has a play center and ice skating school for kids. Beyazıt. E4. Donna Karan, Nolita, Bon Point, Monalisa, Roberto 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0660. Daily 10am-10pm. www.trumpistanbul.com.tr. Cavalli & Simonetta also available. Daily 10am- Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Karkuyusu Sok. 19, Şişli. T: 0212 348 7867. Off map. Bookstores 10pm. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre Optimum Vialand 185, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0146. Bringing the outlet concept into the city centre, Turkey’s first world-class mega theme park offers D&R Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Optimum İstanbul serves nearly nine million visitors Offers a broad selection of books, music, films, a host of different entertainment alternatives Miki House a year in the bustling neighbourhood of Kadıköy electronics, games, gifts and stationary in a including a show centre, shopping centre, a 5000- Japan’s most famous and prestigious children’s on the Asian side. In addition to famous brands like modern and relaxed atmosphere, with 45 stores seat auditorium plus a train, a roller coaster and brand, Miki House is a favourite for boys and girls Tommy Hilfiger, Fracassetti and Diesel, you’ll find throughout İstanbul. Check website for the nearest other rides and theme zones. www.vialand.com.tr. aged up to ten years old. There’s a vast choice of local brands like Derimod, Vakko and store. Daily 10am-10pm. www.dr.com.tr. Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Mah. Eyüp. T: 0212 618 9797. items from clothing, bags and packs, a wide range Atasay. There’s a huge daylit food court and open- Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre K:1, Off map. of shoes, toys, hats and other accessories. air terraces, plus a 540 m2 ice skating rink. Daily 179, Levent. T: 0212 353 0870. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.mikihouseturkey.com. 10am-10pm. www.optimumoutlet.com. Zorlu Center Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. 24/B, Nişantaşı. İstiklal Sok. 10/4, Yenisahra, Ataşehir. This mall in the heart of the city is home to luxury T: 0212 236 3649. A6. T: 0216 664 1414. Off map. boutique stores including Beymen, plus Turkey’s Remzi Kitabevi first outlets of brands such as Brooks Brothers, Books in both Turkish and English are available in Palladium Industrie Denim, Cos, Lanvin, Pomellato, Stella this bookstore, which also includes a café. Turkish Largest shopping centre in İstanbul’s Asian side. Clothing – Men McCartney and Superdry. The venue also has 14 and foreign daily periodicals, CDs, DVDs, VCDs, In addition to 170 large stores, movie theatres and Corentte cinemas, including two VIP cinemas with 1,600 Turkish, foreign magazines and gifts also available. an excellent food court, it also includes a 32-storey Known for its made-to-measure shirts and suits, seats each. Daily 10am-10pm. www.zorlucenter.com. Eight stores throughout İstanbul; check website for residence. Its inspiring architecture includes a plus silk and cashmere neckties, the company Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Beşiktaş. the closest store. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm. colossal glass hemisphere for a roof. The chic mall www.remzi.com.tr. Rumeli Cad. 44, Nişantaşı. uses fabrics from famous brands such as Charles also houses world-renowned brands including T: 0212 444 9496. Off map. T: 0212 234 5475. A6. Bağdat Cad. 452, Suadiye. Clayton, Loro Piana, Valentino, Dormeuil, Vitale Marks&Spencer, C&A, Banana Republic, T: 0216 361 9071. Off map. Barberis Cononico, Ermenegildo Zegna, and and Zara. Daily 10am-10pm. ANTIQUES AND Fratelli Italia De Delfino. www.corentte.com. www.palladium.com.tr. Barbaros Mah. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. İkizler Apt. 14/3, Nişantaşı. Halk Cad. 8/B, Yeni Sahra, Kozyatağı. COLLECTIBLES Carpets T: 0212 247 0445. Off map. T: 0216 663 1500. Off map. Antik Palace Agora Halı Damat/Tween Sapphire Nearly 260 art and antique auctions have been This amazing store’s 18,000-piece private The Damat Collection’s main fabric line consists At 261 metres high, İstanbul Sapphire is the held by this house, where numerous Turkish and collection includes regional carpets such as Old of specially woven, environmentally friendly, wool city's tallest combined shopping mall and world records have been broken. Antik A.Ş. is the Kazak, Konya, Sivas, Bergama and Uşak, plus the and wool blend Bio-Tech fabrics that are both andresidential building; it’s also Turkey’s first organizer of the first and most comprehensive exciting Contemporary Art collection. sophisticated and eye-catching. Daily 10am-10pm. ‘green’ structure, and one of few such buildings contemporary painting, wine, book and classic www.agorarug.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. www.damat.com.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 63, Nişantaşı. in the world. Combining western, traditional and automobile auctions in Turkey. Daily 9am-7pm. Türbedar Sok. 9, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 528 7441. E4. T: 0212 343 8550-51. A6.

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Ermenegildo Zegna luggage, leather goods, furs, a ready-to-wear Clothing - Women The brand offers two distinct lines inc Zegna Sport collection and much more. Daily 10am-7:30pm. and Z Zegna. Particularly the environmentally www.gucci.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas 33/C, Barbara Bui Reflecting the energy and strength of the urban friendly Oasi Zegna Cashmere jumpers in basic Teşvikiye. T: 0212 225 2080. A6. colours appeal to both sight and touch. woman, Barbara Bui has represented sophisticated www.zegna.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. H&M Parisian style for 27 years. This season’s collection Abdi İpekçi Cad. 46/A, Nişantaşı. Operating in cities around the world since 1947, embodies a powerful rock spirit, and sculptural T: 0212 241 6500. A6. H&M offers fashionable, quality products for men, designs. Mon-Thu 10am-8pm. Fri & Sat 10am- women and children at attractive prices, and also 8.30pm. Sun noon-8pm. St. Regis İstanbul, Hugo Boss stocks attractive local textiles. Daily 10am-10pm. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 35-1, Nişantaşı. Bringing together modern accessories and casual İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, T: 0212 230 3752. A6. and sporty lines, Hugo Boss offers endless choices Sarıyer. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). inc ready-wear, watches, accessories, lingerie, Brandroom bodycare products and more, under lines including Massimo Dutti Offers apparel for all occasions by select brands its Boss Black, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Boss The perennial choice of people unwilling to inc Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace, Diane Von Selection. Daily 10am-10pm. compromise on their appearance in a busy Furstenberg, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Salvatore Ferragamo, www.hugoboss.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. and fast-paced business life. Daily 10am-10pm. Tom Ford, MCQ, Catherine Malandrino, Ashish, İstinyePark Shopping Centre 339/468, Sarıyer. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre Emilio Pucci, Thomas Wylde, Paul & Joe, See T: 0212 345 6001. 211/310, Etiler.T: 0212 282 0939. by Chloe, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania and Helmut Lang, as well as broad selection of Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Shopping Centre Map (p.36). cosmetics. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. La Misura Mavi www.demsagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. A leader in custom tailoring, La Misura designs a Appealing to a vast range of tastes in jeans and Polat Palas 63, Maçka. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. wide range of made-to-measure suits, tuxedos, casual clothing, this world-renowned Turkish brand coats, shoes, accessories and more. BCBG Max Azria also offers exclusive concept products for special Tailoring www.lamisura.com.tr. Levent Cad. 54, 1. Levent. The choice of many Hollywood celebrities like occasions. Daily 10am-10pm. T: 0212 283 0022. Paris Hilton, Carmen Electra, Eva Mendes and Off map. www.mavi.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Sharon Stone, Max Azria caters to women who Shopping Centre 235/238, Etiler. prefer a modern style. Extensive product offers T: 0212 282 0423-24. Clothing – Shopping Centre Map (p.36). casual wear to evening dresses, shoes and your Men & Women Naracamicie handbags. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Italian luxury shirt designer and manufacturer www.bcbgmaxazriagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. personality Burberry Naracamicie presents four collections under the Bostan Sok. 4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 2242. A6. Clothing for women, men, children and babies Flash and Base labels. In addition to bold, unusual inc a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, Bottega Veneta shirts and blouses, you’ll fine classic shirts, white separates and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Comfortable, quality footwear and handbag shirts and a host of original styles.Mon-Sat 10am- www.burberry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. designs offering elegance and luxury. 7.30pm, Sun 12am-7pm. T: 0212 241 5516. A6. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.bottegaveneta.com. www.naracamicie.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre Dolce & Gabanna Bostan Sok. Ayda Apt. 11 / 1, Nişantaşı. 463, Sarıyer.T: 0212 335 6790. The creation of Italian designers Domenico T: 0212 236 5600. A6. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Dolce and Stefano Gabanna, this famous brand dazzles the eyes with its brilliant designs. The new Network Chanel collection makes heavy use of wool with black, gold Network is a global brand inspired by the World-renowned French brand Chanel offers and lamé designs. Daily 10am-10pm. multicultural character of the 21st century, a wide range of products from ready-wear to www.dolcegabbana.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu introducing new trends for men and women. accessories, beauty products and watches. Chanel Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3398. Off map. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.network-tr.com. counts Nicole Kidman, Victoria Beckham, Lily Allen, Teşvikiye Cad. 103, Nişantaşı. Catherine Denevue and Audrey Tautou among its

Emporio Armani T: 0212 236 6579. A6. celebrity clients. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Abdi İpekçi Italy’s most famous fashion brand, Emporio Cad. Nazen Apt. Maçka. T: 0212 368 6300. A6. Armani offers ready-to-wear, jewellery, lingerie, Ralph Lauren glasses and watches while renewing itself with the Athletic and inspiring garments, coats and jackets Dior appealing and unique designs of its EA07 watch give the feeling of an American holiday. Ralph Highly distinguished world brand with John and Kaka jean creations. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. Lauren offers unique choices for lovers of the Galliano’s haute couture, men’s-women’s www.emporioarmani.com. İstinyePark Shopping classics with its Purple Label and Black Label lines prêt-à-porter, home decoration, skin product and Centre 519, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6110. and more casual selections with Polo Ralph Lauren. jewellery designs, Dior’s perfumes are also the Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Daily 10am-10pm. www.ralphlauren.com. choice of top world personalities. Daily 10am- İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, 10pm. www.dior.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Etro Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 7012. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 478, Sarıyer. Sporting Italian lines with the colours of India, this T: 0212 345 5930. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). men and women’s line of clothing, accessories, Shopping Centre Map (p.36). perfumes and home collections stand out with Tom Ford Escada their bold colours and designs. Daily 10am-10pm. One of the world’s most prestigious brands, famed Prestigious international fashion house offering www.etro.com. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, K:1 for its outlandish, unique styles, this store presents luxury apparel, accessories and fragrance İstinye Bayırı Cad. Sarıyer. T: 0212 335 6795. one of the designer’s most astounding collections collections for daytime, weekends and evenings. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). in a contemporary atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am- Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.escada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 25/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 247 8483. A6. Giorgio Armani 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad 46/B, Nişantaşı. The miraculous Italian line that shapes fashion with T: 0212 296 7575. A6. Fendi its simple yet stylish collection stands out with its Italian brand has launched a new boutique which Zara casual, smart designs ideal for business life. Daily will house handbags, shoes, small leather goods, Spanish brand offering men’s, women’s and 10am-10pm. www.giorgioarmani.com. İstinye Bayırı watches, jewellery. Daily 10am-10pm. children’s clothing. Some of its stores, inc Zara Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 518, Sarıyer. Zorlu Center, Koru Sok. 2, 180, Beşiktaş. Home, feature home furnishings and accessories. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. İkizler Apt. 14/3, Nişantaşı, İstanbul / Turkey Tel: 0212 247 0445 T: 0212 345 6110. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). T: 0212 999 9810. Off map. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.zara.com. Metro City Gucci Shopping Centre G, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 00 44. Louis Vuitton Italian fashion brand with shoes, handbags, Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Ready-to-wear dresses as well as bags and www.corentte.com 40 WHERE İstanbul I july 2014 accessories from the famous monogrammed a modern style. Carries many famous hip brands leather by Marc Jacobs. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. under its collection. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. www.louisvuitton.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23, www.v2kdesigners.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 31/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 6975. A6. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9498. A6.

Max&Co. Valentino Collection representing a modern, feminine, The Italian fashion designer’s elegant shops offer seductive and distinctive style. Daily 10am-10pm. haute couture designs dominated by red and www.maxandco.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark black, collectors’ pieces, women’s accessories and Shopping Centre 492, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5731. glasses. Daily 10am-10pm. www.valentino.com. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3392. Off map. Max Mara Max Mara covers all the bases for lovers of classic styles, providing a casual look for women of all Coiffeurs ages. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.maxmara.com. Erdem Kıramer Teşvikiye Cad. 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 6550. A6. An established brand in Turkey, Erdem Kıramer Miu Miu works with Paris-based Dessange Paris, bringing Designed as an independent brand by Prada, Miu the world’s innovations to Turkey. Its hair designs Miu’s trendy footwear and dresses appeal to the successfully reflect the latest in hair fashion in child in you. Daily 10am-10pm. ww.miumiu.com. newspaper, magazine and TV shootings, fashion İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, shows and similar events. Daily 9am-7pm. Sarıyer. T: 0212 329 8158. www.erdemkiramer.com.tr. Maya Residence, Bebek Mah. Otlukbeli Cad. Yol Sok. 16/17, C Blok, Etiler. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). T: 0212 352 1195. Off map. Perspective Modern collections featuring elegant but comfortable work, casual and evening wear design Concept Stores for women with over 100 stores in 41 countries. Fey Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-7pm. An original, unusual shop where you can find www.perspective.com.tr. Rumeli Cad. 2/1, A, designs by owner Fatoş Yalın, vintage pieces, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3355. A6. clothing by Turkish designers, plus accessories including leather purses, iPhone/iPad cases, Prada Considering fashion, luxury and style a mission that T-shirts, silk shirts, jewellery by foreign designers, goes beyond the mere production of clothes, bags, coffee cups and more. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. and shoes, this famous Italian brand leads the Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 9, Nişantaşı. world in fashion and style. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. T: 0212 219 8724. A6. www.prada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 34, Nişantaşı. Inui T: 0212 368 8450. A6. Nişantaşı source for avant-garde designers including Hüseyin Çağlayan, Anne Valerie Hash Roberto Cavalli and Noir. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm. Top quality Italian clothes for men and women, www.inuibutik.com. Maçka Cad. Zekipaşa Apt. that are comfortable as well as stylish. Mon-Sat 12/A Teşvikiye. T: 0212 296 6010. 10.30am-8pm. www.robertocavalli.com. Abdi A6. İpekçi Cad. 13/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 0754. A6. Saint Laurent Department Stores Known For His Designs Aimed At Daring, Feminine Women, The French Designer’s Shops Offer A Beymen Range Of Bold Pieces. Daily 10am-10pm. Beymen Men is renowned for its eye for fine detail, www.ysl.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. special fabrics and quality. Beymen Women offers timeless garments with romantic, nostalgic and Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3390. Off map. feminine details that will never go out of fashion. Salvatore Ferragamo Leading international brands also available. Creativity and passion have been passed down www.beymen.com.tr. Nişantaşı, Mon-Sat 10am- through generations in the Ferragamo family, and 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Nişantaşı. with close attention to quality and detail, Salvatore T: 0212 3734800. A6. Zorlu Center, Daily 10am- Ferragamo has become known as the shoemaker 10pm. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3300. for the stars. In addition to purses and shoes, the Off map. brand’s other lines of clothing have also had great success. Daily 10am-8pm. Boyner Abdi İpekçi Cad. Polat Palas, 63, Nişantaşı. Its men’s, women’s, children’s wear, active sportswear, footwear & accessories, cosmetics and T: 0212 241 6049. A6. housewares departments offer a vast selection of Stella McCartney local and international brands. Daily 10am-10pm. The daughter of former Beatles member Paul İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. McCartney, the British designer is known for Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5070. her creations for famous personalities including Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Bağdat Cad. 360, Madonna, Jude Law and Gwynneth Paltrow. Suadiye. T: 0216 385 1409. Off map. Daily 10am-10pm. www.stellamccartney.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Harvey NicholS Kanyon Shopping Centre is the home of this T: 0212 306 3396. Off map. ultimate luxury designer destination. Spread over V2K Designers 3 floors, it offers over 300 of world’s top designer Prestigious Turkish couture offering elegance and labels in ladies’, men’s and children’s wear,

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cosmetics, fashion, and home accessories, also Hiref in the Grand Bazaar. Boasting mystical interiors including premium brands. Daily 10am-10pm. Reflecting Anatolian art and culture in the world of influenced by the overall atmosphere of the Bazaar, www.harveynichols.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, contemporary Turkish design, Hiref has now added the stores offer a vast range of authentic products Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. its new Bakır, Beykoz and Abdan collections to its from fabrics to oil soaps, leather work to bedding. T: 0212 319 1155. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). offerings. Daily 10am-10pm. Mon-Sat 9:30pm-7pm. Alibaba Türbe Sok. 25, www.hiref.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 526 3070. F4. Vakko Kanyon Shopping Centre 50-51, Levent. This leading Turkish brand presents its own Alhammam T: 0212 353 5450. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). interpretation of today’s fashions in men’s and A world of accoutrements of historical and women’s wear while remaining true to its superior Lokum İstanbul modern hammam culture including soaps, fabric and manifacturing quality. Daily 10am-10pm. Creating unique and original designs on İstanbul’s copper products, scrubs and luffas, peshtemals, www.vakko.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, European side since 2005, Lokum İstanbul features towels and hammam bowls. An excellent place Kanyon Shopping Centre 138, Levent. Turkish delight, cologne, candles, confections, to find the perfect gift or to treat yourself. T: 0212 353 1080. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). cards and very special fabrics. Daily 9am-8pm. Mon-Sat 8am-7:30pm. www.alhammam.com.cn. www.lokumistanbul.com. Kuruçeşme Cad. 15, Çarşıkapı, Nuruosmaniye Cad. 10, Sofçuhan Girişi, Gift & Collectables Kuruçeşme, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 287 1528. Off map. Nuruosmaniye. T: 0212 512 2002. E4. Lotus İznik Ceramic Anatoli Armaggan Lotus Iznik Ceramics offers the best quality, The Anatoli brand brings centuries-old cultural Venue offering its exclusive products that handmade and handpainted, world famous Turkish motifs and symbols Anatolian to life. Its modern reinterpret the inspiration of Anatolia through Ceramics and Tiles. They carefully select the finest designs bring together designers and skilled modern designs created in its own workshops. The examples of traditional and modern İznik and artisans to create a unique line of decorative limited editions include jewellery and home textiles Kütahya ceramic designs. Each art piece is custom objects and giftware, with the Kubbe-i Âliye collections as well as custom clothing produced ordered to outstanding local artists, who sign every coffee set and their Seljuk carafe among their using natural dyes—all exhibited in its seven-storey one of their achievements. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. top selling designs. www.anatoli.com.tr. building. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Nakilbent Sok. 13, Sultanahmet. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Daily 10am-10pm, www.armaggan.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. T: 0212 516 5222. İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6858. F4. 8, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 6292. A6. This exclusive store's new Nuruosmaniye outlet Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Moser Find some of Europe’s best crystal, porcelain presents a wide variety of specially designed Assouline and silver here, boasting some of the world’s top objects, such as jewellery, naturally-dyed textiles, With branches in Paris, New York, Las Vegas, Los celebrity names as its fans. The collections include carpets, leather goods, textiles and fine dining, all Angeles and now İstanbul, Assouline stores offer Kosta Boda, Meissen, Orrefors, Georg Jensen, under one roof. Not only that, but it is also home a selection of limited-edition book bags, book Haviland, Daum and Lalique. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. to Nar Gourmet, Nar Restaurant, Nar Café, the stands, stationery, bookends and fine antiques. www.moserturkey.com. Ebulula Cad. 47, 1.Levent. Culinary Arts Center (YESAM), the Armaggan Art Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Cevdet Paşa Gallery and Bora Travel. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. T: 0212 280 30 24. Off map. Cad. 25/A, Bebek. T: 0212 287 5534. Off map. www.armaggan.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, Paşabahçe Boutique Cashmere House Beyazıt. T: 0212 522 4433. E4. Cashmere House is the place to look for exquisite The right address for delightful premium Beymen Home latest styles of cashmere shawls from Nepal and glassware, with special collections such as Leading world brands in everything from Kashmir, as well as real silk shawls produced in the Ottoman, Enamel Glass, Calligraphy on Glass, decoration to home textiles, lighting to table Turkish cities of Bursa and Denizli in a wide variety Mosaic, Ashura, Boutique Glass and others, design as well as one-of-a-kind products by of colours and styles. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. as well as crystal, porcelain/ceramics, and world-renowned designers. Objects created of fine www.cashmerehouse.com.tr. Keseciler Cad. accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. www.pasabahcemagazalari.com. Büyükdere Cad. materials such as crystal, brass and bronze. Daily 49-51, Grand Bazaar, Beyazıt, Fatih. E4. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre G 141, Levent. 10am-10pm. www.beymen.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Fırça Ceramics T: 0212 353 0730. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Akmerkez Shopping Centre, Etiler. This is Turkey’s first handicraft centre to produce T: 0212 316 6900. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). hand-made ceramics with lead-free glaze and Tash Corner Chakra a high percentages of quartz, equal to original A warm, welcoming shop offering handmade Towels and bathrobes from bamboo fibre that İznik quality. You can also enjoy a fascinating designs, from silver and semiprecious stones, softens when washed, in a variety of colours and demonstration of traditional pottery making plus imported earrings, necklaces and bracelets patterns. Cosmetics specially produced for Chakra with a kick wheel. Sultanahmet, Daily 9am-7pm. in many colours and styles. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. Cankurtaran, Alemdar Cad. 2/A, Sultanahmet. Kapalıçarşı, Koltuk Kazancılar Sok. 27, Eminönü. in Paris under the brand Chakra SPA Collection T: 0212 511 9300. Kariye, Daily (closed Wed) T: 0212 528 69 72. E4. also available. Drop by for an alternative look at 9am-6pm. Derviş Ali Mah. Kariye Camii Sok. 4 houseware. Daily 10am-10pm. www.chakra.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Edirnekapı. T: 0212 534 4916. C1/2. Hammams Levent. T: 0212 353 0757. Gali Collection, The Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı Shopping Centre Map (p.36). This home and marine collection features (Bath of Roxelana) Dantell nature-inspired forms alongside contemporary Commissioned in 1556 to Mimar Sinan by Sultan A wonderful new place for fine bed linens, hand-crafted silver jewellery. View the fine silver Suleyman I, this hamam was named after his wife tablecloths, towels, pillows, napkins and bathrobes, collection, and Gali-designed slippers to ward off Hürrem Sultan, popularly known as Roxelana. The brand for stylish kids including the Dreamy Whites, Everyday Glamour, the evil eye. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. The Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam has recently Spring Garden, Ecclechic and signed Tuvana www.thegalicollection.com. Kültür Mah. been restored and reopened as one of the most Büyükçınar’s Tuvanam For Dantell collections. Tesvikiye Mah. Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. No:24/B Nisantası, lstanbul Tel: 0212 236 36 49 Küçük Çamlık Sitesi, Esra Sok. E Blok 2H D2, Etiler. important treasures in the Ottoman-Turkish bath Special exclusive design accessories also available. T: 0212 234 0138. A6. tradition. It was the first bath in which the men’s Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dantell.com. www.mikihouse.co.jp and women’s sections were built to the same Godiva Teşvikiye Mah. Şakayık Sok. 56/17 Nişantaşı. [email protected] For a wonderful romantic moment or a surprise plan. Daily 7am-12am. Cankurtaran Mah. Ayasofya T: 0212 224 0867. A6. Please treat, this world-famous Belgian chocolatier is the Meydanı 2, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 3535. F4. instagram/mikihouseistanbul sweetest choice. Creating the finest chocolates Haremlique ask your since 1926, Godiva’s tradition and legendary Company offering own production of luxury concierge flavour await you. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12am- Homewares linens and towels as well as fine silks, cashmeres, for more 6pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Ünsal Apt. 6-4, B, Nişantaşı. Abdulla upholstery and home accessories for the finest details T: 0212 246 4186. A6. Comprised of two stores offering natural products homes, yachts and boutique hotels. Mon-Sat 10am-

44 WHERE İstanbul I July 2014 SHOPPING A46 SHOPPING

7pm. www.haremlique.com. Zorlu Center Koru Sok. www.damasjewellery.com.tr. Atiye Sok. 34, d’Ache and Swiss Kubik. Daily 10am-10pm. Ülseven 2/194, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3843. Off map. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 5967. A6. www.tektassaatcilik.com.tr. Kanyon Shopping Ülseven Fine Jewellery has been creating unique Centre, Büyükdere Cad. 1/9, 4. Levent. masterpieces and exclusive jewellery collections Heritia Gasia T: 0212 353 0555. for over 60 years. A well-known company in the Offering a wealth of fine handicrafts, Heritia Gasia is a manufacturer and wholesaler of design Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Grand Bazaar, Ülseven serves its upscale clients in jewellery, specializing in 24 karat hand hammered is filled with treasures like tables and jewel its Nişantaşı, and Bakırköy stores. Mon-Sat 10am- products. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl, ornate worry Tiara 9pm. www.ulseven.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 22/A, beads, tablecloths and wall-hangings hand- www.gasiajewelry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 21/1, Tiara Jewellery offers a splendid collection Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 0656. A6. embroidered in silver and gold thread. Look out Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 2715. A6. of jewellery inspired by the artistic history of also for traditional Turkish lokum, hard candies Anatolian civilizations and the creativity of Zela Gilan and flavoured almond pastes. www.heritia.com.tr. contemporary artists. Made of the highest Zela’s unites the elegance of the world of jewellery, The number one name in haute couture jewellery in Meşrutiyet Cad. Baran Apt. 79, D:1-2, quality gold, platinum and semi-precious stores, the mystery of the East, and the modern lines of Istanbul, Gilan brings the brilliance of the Ottoman, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu T: 0212 243 5800. C4. the jewellery collection features the utmost in the West. Embodying beauty and nobility in its Roman and Byzantine eras back to life. craftsmanship and quailty. Daily 9am-6pm. designs for 20 years, the unparalleled collections İznik Works Daily 10am-10pm. www.gilan.com. Four Seasons www.tiarajewellery.com. Yavuz Sinan Mah. bring out the best of precious and semiprecious A homely store in the heart of the Grand Bazaar, Hotel İstanbul at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Cad. 28, Ragıp Gümüş Pala Cad. 69, Unkapanı. stones. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.zelajewels.com. İznik Works offers the centuries-old glory of Turkish Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 2163. Off map. İstinyePark T: 0212 526 6363. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 9/A, Nişantaşı. Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 459, Sarıyer. F5. tile and pottery making. The finest examples of T: 0212 296 0055. A6. İznik tiles in blue, green and white embellish the T: 0212 345 5008.Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Tiffany & Co. store. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.iznikworks.com. Renowned for its rare and magnificent diamonds, Sevan Bıçakçı Grand Bazaar, Takkeciler Sok. 82-84, Eminönü. Award-winning designer offering much sought- Tiffany & Co. has for decades been the world’s Leather & Fur T: 0212 522 4242. F5. after pieces, particularly the unique and highly premier jeweller and America’s finest house of Desa design. Tiffany style is defined by groundbreaking Mudo Concept valuable ring designs. Flawless handmade Established in 1972, this brand now operates with designers and glamorous collections. Mon-Sat Offers a broad product range in decoration, diamond jewellery and special collections echoing 73 stores in Turkey and 2 abroad. In addition to furniture, personal accessories, home textiles and Turkish handiwork have captured the attention of 10am-7pm. www.tiffany.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. leather products, it also produces silk, chiffon, lighting for living spaces, kitchens and bathrooms. collectors worldwide. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Atiye Sok. 9/B, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 8346. A6. cashmere and knitwear skirts, jackets, trousers, www.sevanbicakci.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez coats and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. Daily 10am-10pm. www.mudoconcept.com.tr. Turkish Designer Stores Urart Shopping Centre, 227. Etiler. T: 0212 236 9199. www.desa.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. Teşvikiye, Akkavak-Şakayık Sok. 47/2, This jeweller in bustling Nişantaşı stands out T: 0212 232 1290. Bağdat Cad. 443/A, Suadiye. Tunaman Çarşısı. T: 0212 444 6836. A6. A46—Stylish brand and destinations for women com. Teşvikiye Cad. Alhamra Apt. 28/3, Nişantaşı. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). with its unique, modern designs that draw upon A6. who want to remain elegant both day and night. T: 0212 296 0012. GAMZE SARAÇOĞLU—A member T: 0216 416 4368. Off map. Bağdat Cad. 244, Tektaş Watches & Jewellery and interpret the very special works of Anatolian Yazzma www.a46.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Kaşıkçıoğlu Apt. of the Fashion Designers Association, Saraçoğlu has Göztepe. T: 0216 369 8037. Off map. Offering luxury watch and jewellery designs civilisations and cultures. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. This shop selling shawls, scarves, kaftans, slippers 42, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 233 9031. ARZU KAPROL— worked for brands like Zara, Marks & Spencer and İstinyePark Shopping Centre 398, Sarıyer. by Patek Philippe, Audemars-Piguet, Breguet, www.urart.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 18/1, Nişantaşı. and pillows in a riot of colours has something to Arzu Kaprol couture reflects femininity, comfort and Apple. Inspired by life and humanity, her designs are T: 0212 245 6739. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). suite any taste. The authentic products fit not only private use. www.arzukaprol.net. Teşvikiye Cad. Atiye all expressions of her joy and positive outlook. Chopard, de Grisogono, Breitling, Gucci, Caran T: 0212 246 7194. A6. classic decor, but modern homes as well. Sok. 9, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0129. ATIL KUTOĞLU— www.gamzesaracoglu.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Derishow Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. www.yazzma.com. With an emphasis on materials like silk, cotton, Isparta Palas 19/3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 6973. İPEK Establishment providing fine leather products and Kapalıçarşı, Takkeciler Sok. 58-60, Eminönü. wool, cashmere and leather in his collections, Atıl KRAMER—İpek Kramer is an important brand in different designs for its customers since 1987. Kutuoğlu has a long list of international customers haute couture nightwear in Turkey. www.ipekkiramer. Daily 10am-10pm. www.derishow.com.tr. İstinye T: 0212 524 6841. E4. including Jessica Alba, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Naomi com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 363, Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 507, Campbell and Elizabeth Jagger. Known for his sleek Etiler. T: 0212 282 0143. GÖNÜL PAKSOY—Creativity Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5908. Shopping Centre Map (p36). Jewellery eveningwear. www.atilkutoglu.com. Teşvikiye, that bears the marks of Turkish culture and history. Bostan Sok. 9/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 260 6067. From clothes to accessories, shawls, pillows and Koç Deri Assos Diamond BAHAR KORÇAN—World-renowned designer Bahar slippers, all of her designs are unique, special and Established in 1968, Koç Deri manufactures for This store is filled with elegant and out-of-the- Koçan uses handwoven silk, Japanese wool textiles, reflective of her inner world. Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 1, global brands including Armani and Dolce & ordinary designs, with distinct wedding, gold, organic cotton and bamboo fiber plaits. Teşvikiye. T: 0212 236 0209. ÖZGÜR MASUR—Always Gabbana. One of the most widely known stores silver, precious stone and diamond collections www.baharkorcan.org. Şahkulu Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem striving for innovation and uniqueness in his collec- in the Grand Bazaar, it is also a favourite of many which offer something to suit every taste. Sok. Seraskerci Çıkmazı, Ferah Apt. 5, Galata, tions, Özgür Masur is especially noted for his low celebrities. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7:30pm. Mon-Sat 8.30am-6pm. www.assosdiamond.com. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6855. CENGİZ ABAZOĞLU— necklines, miniskirts and shorts, and finely-crafted, www.kocderi.com. Grand Bazaar, Kürkçüler Çarşısı Starting as a designer of leather and ready-to-wear bold, brilliant and sexy designs. www.ozgurmasur. Molla Feneri Mah. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 60, 22/46, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 5553. E4. brands, this designer then opened his own workshop com. Ihlamur Yolu Cad., Can Apt. 11/5, Nişantaşı. Eminönü. T: 0212 528 3500. E4. where he features his haute couture collections. His T: 0212 233 0678. ÖZLEM SÜER—With avant garde, Kuzu Deri Bvlgari first boutique in Nişantaşı. www.cengizabazoglu.net. neo-romantic designs, Özlem Süer offers alternatives Keeping up with fashion with the finest leather and Leading name in Italian-style jewellery and Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 5242. for day or night. Party dresses, bridal gowns, concert fur goods since 1960, Kuzu Deri also has branches precious fashion pieces since 1884. Mon-Sat 10am- CLOSH—This boutique specializes in ready-to-wear designs and boutique designs in over 60 shops in France, Sweden, Norway and Russia. Check out 9pm. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel the Bosphorus, and wedding gowns for customers. abroad. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. their special new designs in their Zeytinburnu and www.closhboutique.com. Atiye Sok. 2, Teşvikiye. www.ozlemsuer.com. Özlem Süer House: Büyükçiftlik Maçka. T: 0212 259 0227. B7. Nuruosmaniye stores. www.kuzu.com.tr. Bab-ı Ali T: 0212 258 5756. ÇİĞDEM AKIN—Original and Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 5738. Özlem Süer Cad. 7/A Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 513 5898. F5. Cartier Boutique distinct designs prepared for special days carrying Suadiye: Bağdat Cad. Plaj Yolu Sok. 12, Suadiye. Watches, wedding and engagement rings, all the features made for individuals who follow the T: 0216 445 9043. DERVİŞ-RAŞİT BAĞZIBAĞLI—Raşit diamond jewellery and other luxury items are trend. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Erkan Apt. 28/4, Nişantaşı. Bağzıbağlı-In addition to his achievements as a haute Shoes & Bags available from this leading French brand. Mon-Sat T: 0212 248 1177. DENİZ KAPROL—One of Turkey’s couture designer, Raşit Bağzıbağlı is also on his way 10:30am-7pm. www.cartierboutique.com. Abdi foremost brands in jewellery and accessory design, to transforming his ready-wear brand B. Rushh into a Christian Louboutin Kaprol embellishes her elegant designs with meticu- global brand. www.rasitbagzibagli.com. Levent Cad. This season, timeless French designer Louboutin İpekçi Cad. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 1317. A6. lously chosen precious stones, and creates personal 34, 1.Levent. T: 0212 283 8772. SİMAY BÜLBÜL—The is renowned for his high-heeled, red-soled shoes. Chopard designs for her customers. The necklaces, bracelets, brand’s personality is infused with an urban feel of The Summerissima is one of the many striking World-renowned brand in jewellery and watches, earrings, rings and brooches in her exclusive collec- the streets, reflected by those that wear them. Her shoes from the collection. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Chopard has established itself as a landmark with tions are sure to impress. www.dkaprol.com. earthy designs feature unusual cuts, tooled leather Sun 12am-8pm. www.christianlouboutin.com. Abdi Bağdat Cad. Noter Sok. Lütfiye Apt. 21/3, and ragged details. www.sim-ay.com. Bereketzade its custom design products. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, İpekçi Cad. 22/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 7870. A6. Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 386 8600. DİLEK HANİF—The Mah. Kuledibi, Kuleçıkmazı 17, Galata. Sat 10:30am-4:30pm. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 13/A, first Turkish designer to present her own couture col- T: 0212 292 7899. SONGÜL CABACI—Appealing to Deriden Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 1775. A6. lection at Paris Haute Couture fashion week. the woman in search of an elegant, avant-garde look, Local distributor of world-famous brands inc Damas www.dilekhanif.com. Maçka Cad. Ralli Apt. 37/2, Cabacı creates designs that epitomise the blending DKNY, Timberland, Sebago, Kowalski, Calvin Klein, Since its founding, this brand has followed the Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 3723-24. ELİF CIGIZOĞLU— of plastic arts and fashion. www.songulcabaci.com. Bikkembergs, Boticelli, Lion, Palladium, Logan, and Introduces volume even to the most classic garments Hacı Mimi Mah.Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok. Hoca Ali Yokuşu, trends and innovations in the world of jewellery and Buffalo. Daily 10am-10pm. with the added origamic details. www.elifcigizoglu. 25/1, Galata. T: 0212 245 9136. timepieces, and successfully represented world- www.deriden.com.tr. Çırağan Cad. Vapur İskelesi renowned brands. Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm. Sok. 1, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 7666. A9.

46 WHERE İstanbul I July 2014 July 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 47 Giusseppe Zanotti Design coffee. Daily 8am-7pm. www.mehmetefendi.com. Glamorous women’s footwear by this Italian Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cad. Tahmis Sok. 66, designer is excellent for social functions with its Eminönü. T: 0212 511 4262-63. E4. dressy style that emphasizes femininity. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giuseppe-zanotti-design.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/26, Nişantaşı. Underwear & T: 0212 232 0745. A6. Swimsuit Tory Burch Zeki Triko This U.S. designer, who made a name for himself The world-renowned swimwear brand Zeki Triko with his flats named after his mother Reva, offers a once again captures the attention with its unique luxurious collection of leather and patent leather and artsy models. The new collection of this global bags, accessories, shoes, flats and boots in its brand includes a vast array of lingerie, bikinis, single location. Daily 10am-10pm. swimsuits and beachwear. Daily 10am-10pm. www.toryburch.com. Zorlu Center, www.zekitriko.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Off map. Shopping Centre 366, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0591-92. Spas Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Jatomi Fitness & Spa Turkey’s largest fitness chain with 13 branches in Watches Istanbul, including cutting-edge spa centres, with IWC Schaffhausen fully-trained staff in new health regimes including The famous luxury watch brand presents its Pilot’s Pilates and Zumba. www.jatomifitness.com.tr. watch celebrating the history of aviation. Other notable models include Aquatimer Diver; the Da Vinci; Ingenieur, celebrating technology and Turkish Delicacies engineering; and the Portofino, created in honour Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir of 1930 Portuguese sailors. Mon-Sat10.30am- An international brand with an extensive exports 6.30pm. www.iwc.com/turkey. network spanning the world from Japan to New Mim Kemal Öke Cad. Altın Sok 4/A, Nişantaşı. Zealand, the Middle East, Latvia, the United T: 0212 224 4604. A6. Kingdom and the United States, it offers Turkish Saat & Saat delight or lokum,hard candies, nut pastes, halvahs This store carries premium watches and and dragees. Daily 8am-8pm. İstiklal Cad. 83/A, ornaments from a host of brands inc Adidas, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 2804 . C5. Balmain, Burberry, Chronotech, Citizen, Diesel, Bebek Badem Ezmesi DKNY, Emporio Armani, Escape, Esprit, Fossil, Sweet shop famous for its almond and pistachio GC, GF Ferre, Hamilton, Hugo Boss Guess, Just pastes. Products are always fresh and made from Cavalli, Michael Kors, Miss Sixty, Roberto Cavalli, top-quality ingredients. Daily 9:30am-8pm. Cevdet Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, Valentino, Welder and Paşa Cad. 53/C, Bebek. T: 0212 263 5984. Off map. Zodiac. Daily 10am-10pm. www.saatvesaat.com. Büyükdere Cad. 22, Cevahir Shopping Centre 44/A, Cemilzade 1883 Şişli. T: 0212 380 0972. Off map. Many traditional Turkish delight varieties as well as its exclusive fruit Turkish delights, hard candies Panerai and nut pastes, each as sweet as the next, but light Opened in 1860 in the city of Florence as a watch- as well. Mon-Sat 10am-8:30pm, Sun 11am-7pm. making workshop and a shop, Panerai has its Nispetiye Cad. 104/B Etiler. T: 0212 257 2865. roots deep beneath the sea. Providing sensitive Off map. measuring instruments for the Italian Army, the company specialised in diving watches for special Faruk Güllüoğlu operations of the Undersea Commandos. Mon-Sat Popular both in Turkey and around the world, 9am-6:30pm. www.panerai.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Güllüoğlü in Karaköy has served traditional Turkish Altın Sok. 2/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 5959. A6. baklava and other sweets for two centuries with the same meticulous care at every stage in the process. Mon-Sat 7am-7pm. www.gulluoglu.com.tr. Wedding Clothes Rıhtım Cad. Katlı Otopark Altı 3-4, Karaköy. Beymen Bridal T: 0212 293 0910. D5. Beymen offers a host of bridal dresses to women Koska Helvacısı preparing for that special day, and is Turkey’s Leading manufacturer and exporter of Turkish exclusive source for top designers including Lanvin, halva, a tahini-based cofection popular over a Christos, Amsale, Kenneth Pool, Romona, Keveza, vast region, as well as other traditional flavours inc Valentino and Albertta Ferretti. Daily 10am- preserves, sesame paste and molasses, Turkish 8pm. www.beymen.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, delight and light products for diabetics. Available Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 4800. A6. in all major food retailers. www.koska.com. Vakko Wedding Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi Vakko style meets designer wedding gowns by The origins of coffee culture throughout the world-renowned fashion brands including Oscar Silver & Genuine Rough Stone Jewellery world today can be traced back to Turkish coffee. De La Renta, Vera Wang, Emanuel Ungaro, Elie by For centuries, coffee was originally purchased as Elia Saab, Marchesa, Vera Wang, Monique Lhuillier, Koltuk Kazazlar Sok. No:27 Kapalıçarşı (Grandbazaar), İstanbul Reem Acra and Valentino, to create an epic green beans to be taken home, roasted in pans, Tel: +90212 528 69 72 GSM: +90532 412 32 21 then ground in hand cranked mills or mortar and atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. pestles. This long, tedious and exhausting process www.vakko.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. 27, e.mail: [email protected] had to be undertaken every time to savour a cup of Akaretler. T: 0212 258 6608. B7.

48 WHERE İstanbul I July 2014 DINING best of İstanbul dining

Park Fora Since 1996, Park Fora has been renowned as one of İstanbul’s most elegant restaurants, which you instantly feel on entering its waterfront terrace. In keeping with the exclusive ambience, it’s matched by a stellar Bosphorus view, amazing park setting and outstanding service. There’s a huge variety of beautifully presented seafood, such as stuffed anchovies and marinated sea bass, plus a brilliant selection of wines from around the world to raise the bar for restaurants throughout the city. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Topuzlu Parkı İçi 54/A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. www.parkfora.com

Tapasuma Located in the Sumahan Hotel in Çengelköy on İstanbul’s Asian side, Tapasuma possesses a calming atmosphere, mainly thanks to its location overlooking the Bosphorus, plus its striking design with its attractive stone walls. In addition to seasonal fish, Tapasuma’s menu offers unusual Turkish and Mediterranean dishes and bite-size Turkish mezes. Some of its outstanding items include shank of Thracian lamb yahni, and kibbeh cooked on a griddle. Boat service from Kuruçeşme is available. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. www.tapasuma.com

Ritim Galata Iftar on the Bosphorus Just a few steps from the entrance to Galata Tower, this café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a distinct historical atmosphere, highlighted by the black- Throughout the month of Ramadan, the Çırağan Palace Kempinski and-white photographs decorating the walls. With its lively mood and delicious choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal spot for a break on your tour of Galata. presents its special Ramadan menus with a feast of Turkish and world Be sure to try Morini Terrace’s special pitcher cocktails, Galata Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. cuisine at its Laledan Restaurant, as well as authentic Ottoman especially for summer! T: 0212 292 4929. dishes at its Tuğra Restaurant & Lounge.

n a green, peaceful garden in the shadow stuffed peppers, and mantı (Turkish ravioli) of the Çırağan Palace, across from the stuffed with beef; main dishes like casserole Iturquoise blue of the Bosphorus, Laledan of lamb and okra, and steamed sea bass with Restaurant regales its guests with a special mastic; and a dessert buffet featuring tradition- open buffet for the Islamic holy month of al desserts like güllaç with pistachios, keşkül, Ramadan. Beginning with the traditional pumpkin dessert with walnuts and kadayıf. iftariyelik dishes to break the fast, it continues The Tuğra Restaurant & Lounge menu also NaN Şişhane with a rich array of Turkish dishes with presents traditional iftariyelik, sour lentil and Just five minutes from the Galata Tower and bustling İstiklal Caddesi, the after- starters including mücver (courgette fritters), other soups, stuffed grape leaves, pit-roast work parties at NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect way to unwind; lamb, sea bass, and famous Ottoman-style des- the wood-dominated, minimalist décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add serts like zerde and kadayıf with clotted cream. warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world cuisine, it’s a wonderful new hangout for the Şişhane crowd. Evliya Çelebi Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Çırağan Cad, 32, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 243 0174. Laledan Restaurant: T: 0212 236 7333. Tuğra Restaurant&Lounge: T: 0212 258 3377. www.kempinski-istanbul.com

50 WHERE İstanbul I July 2014 ADVERTISEMENT DINING DINING

www.teppanyakialaturka.com. Nispetiye Cad. 107, serves international cuisine, but predominantly Café Wien Etiler. T: 0212 287 8228. Off map. Italian dishes adjusted to Turkish tastes. All European-style coffee and cakes made in house, ingredients are natural, organic and fresh, offering a Viennese style café atmosphere. 26 Wagamama prepared with special herbs. HHH Daily B, L & D. pastries and 18 coffees and to choose from, Extensive menu offers distinctive asian flavours. www.chocolatecafe.com. Eytam Cad. 33, Maçka. including the famous Viennese blend. The A big hit with noodle lovers, this restaurant offers a T: 0212 343 2461. “Eiskaffee” with ice cream is a summer favorite. pleasant and entertaining dining ambiance. A6. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.cafewien.com. HHH Daily L & D. www.wagamama.com.tr. Mangerie Maçka Cad. Reasürans Çarşısı 62, Teşvikiye. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Mangerie has been a top eating spot for Istanbul T: 0212 233 7860. A6. Levent. T: 0212 353 0474. and Bebek socialites. With its extensive menu and Shopping Centre Map (p.36). wine list to match, plus a commanding view of Fes Café Nestled in the Grand Bazaar, Fes Café with its Zuma Bebek Bay, it’s become an Istanbul classic. Try the Ottoman -and- contemporary style interior, is an Japanese dining traditions, alive and well in the lamb and hand-cut noodle salad, the skewered heart of İstanbul. Exciting interior is an extra shrimp and Mangerie burger. HH Daily B, L & D. ideal spot for a coffee break without having to attraction to this restaurant overlooking the www.mangeriebebek.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 69/3, leave the authentic atmosphere of the bazaar. HH Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.fescafe.com. Halıcılar Bosphorus. Japanese and world cuisines available Küçükbebek. T: 0212 263 5199. Off map. at sushi and grill bars. Booking required. Cad. 62, Kapalıçarşı. T: 0212 528 1613. E4. HHHH Nişantaşı Brasserie Daily L & D. www.zumarestaurant.com. Limonata Apartment With décor by Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu, Nişantaşı Salhane Sok. 7, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 2296. A9. Limonata is one of İstanbul’s most fashionable Brasserie is one of İstanbul’s most popular spots. spots. Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose The menu offers classic dishes adapted for modern from an impressive selection of cocktails at the brıtısh tastes, including French onion soup, duck’s liver, unique Limonata bar. HHH Daily L & D. Bostan Sok. steak Tartare, and ‘Café de Paris’ filet mignon. Tom’s Kitchen 13, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2300. A6. HHH Daily B, L & D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. Tom’s kitchen serves comfort food favourites in a Limonata Downtown relaxed and environment, from brakfast to dinner. 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0443. A6. Limonata is one of İstanbul’s most fashionable Menu highlights include fish pie, steak tartare, shepherd’s pie. HHH Daily B & L & D. spots. Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose CAFE from an impressive selection of cocktails at the Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. unique Limonata bar. HHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 353 6677. Off map. A La Carte Restaurant Süleyman Seba Cad. 46, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. Meals surrounded by magnificent Bosphorus T: 0212 236 5017. A6. scenery and splendid historical buildings. bıstro HHHH Daily B, L & D. www.legacyottomanhotel. Mavra Chocolate com. Legacy Ottoman Hotel, Hobyar Mah. One of the most populated cafes of the Offering an exquisite dining experience, this spot Hamidiye Cad. 16, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 6767. E4. neighbourhood frequented by photographers,

www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı AEGEAN ASIAN & Far EASTERN Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Eleos Banyan Miyabi Sushi The exquisite flavours of the Far East. Famous for Spacious décor and unique flavours from both The elegant restaurant serves top-class Japanese shores of the Aegean Sea. In addition to classic its omelette varieties from 20 countries. Menus food in a modern atmosphere. Featuring natural flavours of İstanbul’s taverns, Eleos’ menu includes include samosa with Vietnamese-style vegetable wood décor and a Zen garden, it offers a wide Greek and Armenian specialties as well as chili sauce, Singapore-style noodles and sushi. variety of Japanese dishes plus a sushi menu. HHH HHHH Aegean wild greens. HHH Daily L & D. Daily L & D. www.banyanrestaurant.com. Daily L&D. Mahzeytinoğlu Cad. Yaren Sok. 6/ 14-15, Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 3/2, Ortaköy. www.eleosrestaurant.com. İstiklal Cad. 231, K:2, Akatlar, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 352 0222. Off map. T: 0212 259 9060-70. Hıdivval Palas, Beyoğlu, Tünel. Off map. P.F. Changs T: 0212 244 9090-91. C5. Dragon Restaurant This Chinese bistro is famed for its delicious food, Delicious dishes by Hong Kong chefs served in a Lokanta Maya authentic décor and fine service, and the majestic spacious interior decorated in classical Chinese A warm, simple restaurant with a menu focusing horses that greet its guests at the door. Exotic style. Specialties include crispy duck and stir-fried flavours in portions large enough to share are on Aegean and Mediterranean specialities, Maya dishes. HHHH Daily L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. accompanied by a good choice of wines, special uses only fresh seasonal ingredients. Some of the Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. cocktails, sake and beer. HHH www.pfchangs.com. favourites include chicken liver pate, marinated sea T: 0212 231 6200. B6 tr. Nispetiye Cad. 94, Etiler. T: 0212 358 6060. bass and fish croquettes. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Off map. www.lokantamaya.com. Kemankeş Cad. 35 A, Miyako Award-winning restaurant offering three fine Asian Karaköy. T: 0212 252 6884. D5. Shang Palace dining experiences: sushi bar, Teppanyaki cuisine Exciting classical and innovative Chinese dishes Mira plus tatami room. The Japanese garden adds a are served alongside information on the cuisine. In historical Arnavutköy, on the coastline of the further Asian touch. Sake is served warm or cold to Favourites include Peking duck, filet mignon slices Bosphorus, with its garden overlooking the sea accompany the meal. HHHH Tue-Sun 7pm-11pm. D. marinated in Chinese wine, and ginger seafood. and warm atmosphere, Mira offers the healthful www.swissotel.com.tr. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel HHHH Daily L & D. Sinanpaşa Mah. Hayrettin Aegean herbs of Aegean cuisine skillfully matched The Bosphorus, Maçka. İskelesi Sok. 1, Beşiktaş. with Armenian, Greek and Circassian mezes. T: 0212 326 1100. B7. T: 0212 275 8888. B7. octopus salad, marinated seabass, the Armenian Maromi Teppanyaki Alaturka specially topik, octopus and calamari, and oven- The restaurant has been an Istanbul hit since the Asian and Turkish delicacies are prepared with baked cuttlefish. Daily B & L & D. day it opened, enhanced by a mystical atmosphere the traditional Japanese teppanayaki griddle www.mirarestaurant.com.tr. with decor brought from Japan. Stars on the menu technique, and served in a dramatic fashion. Arnavutköy Cad. 70/1, Arnavutköy, Beşiktaş. include tofu salad and calamari crepes, and for The interior is dominated by a wood décor ; VIP T: 0212 2653131. Off map. dessert, green tea ice cream. HHH Daily L & D. sections also available. HHH Daily L & D.

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actors and designers. Mavra is a cozy little café of the Historic Peninsula, the Prince’s Islands and T: 0212 363 3300. Off map. and a special şöbiyet (cream-filled baklava) from Sur Balık Arnavutköy offering classic but very tasty café fare, including a beyond. The chefs create new interpretations Gaziantep. HHHH Daily L & D. Sur Balık is located in a simple 150-year-old Guidelines Park Fora variety of breakfast platters, sandwiches, indulge- of classic flavours, with fresh vegetables from www.poseidonbebek.com. Küçük Bebek, Cevdet seaside mansion, with walls sporting old İstanbul This directory, grouped by category, is a Popular restaurant offering delicious seafood and worthy appetizers, salads, pastas, and meat-heavy Feriköy’s organic market, focusing on freshly- Paşa Cad. 58, Bebek. T: 0212 287 9531. Off map. photographs. Sea bass marinated with basil, compendium of establishments recommended high-quality service. Appetizers include salted mains. Daily B & L & D & N. Daily 9:30am-2am. caught local seafood and native Kıvırcık lamb. anglerfish ricado and profiteroles with tahini are by the editors of Where Magazine and includes bonito, octopus salad, shrimp roquefort and grilled HH Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok. 31/A, Galata. HHHH Daily D. Tomtom Suites, Boğazkesen Cad. Revma Balık just a few of the highly-recommended treats. regular advertisers. calamari. Fishcakes and salt-baked fish highly T: 0212 252 7488. D5. Tomtom Kaptan Sok.18, Beyoğlu. Located in the beautiful Bosphorus quarter of HHH Daily L & D. www.surbalikarnavutkoy.com. recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 292 4467. C5. Arnavutköy, and boasting an impressive view, Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. 52, Arnavutköy. NaN Şişhane MAP LOCATIONS www.parkfora.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Note that the references at the end of each list- Revma Balık serves original house mezes and fish T: 0212 257 2743-44. Off map. NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect Nopa ing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to pages 70-71. Topuzlu Parkı 54-A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. A9. dishes in a welcome, homely atmosphere. Menu way to unwind; the wood-dominated, minimalist Among the cafés you’ll find this elegant restaurant Tapasuma Poseidon highlights include octopus beğendi, hot wild Tapasuma serves traditional Turkish treats in hot décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add with a long bar, vertical gardens on its walls, a GENERAL information Seafood at its best against a magnificent view greens platter, sea bass wrapped in chard, and warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world glass ceiling and an exclusive cocktail menu. Reservations for most restaurants are strongly and cold tapas form, along with fresh fish from fried shrimp pastries. Daily L & D. the Bosphorus and a range of mezes. Enjoy the cuisine, it’s a wonderful new hangout. Recommended dishes include exotic seafood advised. Check when booking that the restau- of İstanbul. Specialties include stuffed calamari, www.revmabalik.com Arnavutköy, Bebek Cad. panoramic views on the shores of the Bosphorus www.nanşişhane.com Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, specialities, plus beef ribs roasted for 12 hours, and rant will accept your credit card. Value Added baked as well as Greek-style grilled octopus, Tax (VAT) is automatically included in the bill, No:7, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 5060. – there’s also a boat service available from Şişhane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 0174. C5. lamb shank menu for two. HHHH Daily L, D & N. cold meats, a variety of Turkish and foreign wines Off map. but tips are generally not added. A 10% cash Kuruçeşme. HHH Daily L & D. www.tapasuma.com. Atiye Sok. 6, Nişantaşı. Ritim Galata gratuity is common. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. T:0212 327 5868. This café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a A6. Off map. PLEASE NOTE: ALL RESTAURANTS & distinct historical atmosphere with its lively mood Pancaldi BARS ARE NON-SMOKING. Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçı and delicious choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal In keeping with Turkish hospitality and Ramada This historical fish restaurant offers fresh fish every spot for a break on your tour of Galata. Galata Worldwide’s superior standards of quality and index to abbreviations weekday between 12pm and 4pm. Fish is displayed Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. service, Pancaldi Restaurant offers delicious B: Open for breakfast L & D: Open lunch & at the entrance; select your fish and wait for it to be T: 0212 292 4929. C5. selections from local and international cuisines. dinner only. prepared by expert chefs. HHH Daily L & D. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.tarihikarakoybalikcisi.com. www.ramadaplazaistanbul.com. PRICES Tersane Cad. Kardeşim Sok. 45, Karaköy. Prices per person for three courses and coffee, CAFE, restaurant& BAR T: 0212 251 1371. Halaskargazi Cad. 63, Ramada Plaza, Osmanbey. no alcohol. D4. Ada Bosphorus T: 0212 315 4444. A6. H – TL 0-30 per person It is an ideal place to relax while sampling HH – TL 30-60 per person HHH delicious dishes while enjoying a stunning view – TL 60-90 per person HHHH – over TL 90 per person french of the Bosphorus. The space is open and airy and FISH & SEAFOOD breakfast on the terrace overlooking the water is a Brass Akıntıburnu special treat. HH Daily B&L&D. Combining two types of contrasting cuisine in This lovely restaurant in Arnavutköy offers a www.adakitapcafe.com. Muallim Naci Cad. calamari in soy sauce, shrimp in vine leaves, turbot, luxurious simplicity, the menu at Brass offers glorious Bosphorus view, freshly-caught fish and Öksüz Çocuk Sok. 1, Kuruçeşme. sea bream, haddock and gurnard. HHH Daily L & D. such treats as bouillabaisse and filet mignon with seafood, and mezes prepared daily. The mackerel www.cengelkoyiskelerestaurant.com. béarnaise sauce, miso soup, tofu and tuna tataki T: 0212 263 9003. Off map. with soy sauce, baked shellfish and quince dessert Çengelköy İskele Gazinosu Sok. 4, Çengelköy. salad, and a selection of Asian desserts. are some of the favourites. HHH Daily L & D. Chapelle T: 0216 321 5506. Off map. Guests can also enjoy live jazz performances This stylish venue’s delicious charcuterie plate 1. Bebek Cad. 115, Akıntıburnu, Arnavutköy. (Fri&Sat). HHH Daily 11am-11pm. and rich choice of wines are reminiscent of a T: 0212 263 4829. Off map. Eftalya www.martiistanbulhotel.com. Abdülhak Hamit Cad. Parisian brasserie. Chapelle’s decor is a fascinating With a maritime-themed interior complete with 25/B, Taksim. T: 0212 987 4020. Arnavutköy Balıkçısı C5. combination of mystic, modern and classic, with mermaid reliefs, choose your fish and enjoy A cozy restaurant with simple, unpretentious a spacious garden. HHH Daily L & D. Rixos Pera, appetizers with marvellous Bosphorus views. La Brise Brasserie decor complemented by nostalgic photos of the Meşrutiyet Cad. 44, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. Be sure to try the tomato and onion salad, fried A brasserie with an Art Nouveau décor, La Brise Arnavutköy waterfront. The menu includes cold calamari and seasonal fish varieties. HHH Daily L offers always seasonal cooking and a great T: 0212 377 7000. C4. mezes like mackerel with soy sauce, salt-cured tuna & D. www.eftalya.net. Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad. 32, selection of drinks. Unmissable dishes include The House Café and sea bass salad, and hot appetizers like sauteed Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 2520. Off map.Suadiye, steak tartare, duck confit and Chateaubriand. The House Cafe was established in 2002 at an monkfish, fried calamari and fish croquettes. Kazım Özalp Sok. 60, Suadiye. HHH Daily L & D. www.brasserielabrise.com. HHHH apartment building in Teşvikiye. In a short period of Daily L & D. www.arnavutkoybalikcisi.com. T: 0216 350 0152. Off map. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 11A, Nişantaşı. 1. Cadde 4, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 257 0525. time, the cafe became a success with its seasonal Off map. T: 0212 244 4846. A6. Galatalı Balık and fresh ingredients providing food, wide range Balıkçı Sabahattin Galatalı Balık serves Cunda cuisine (from Turkey’s of beverages and cosy environment. La Petite Maison Extensive fish menu and excellent service, northwest coast) including Aegean wild greens, www.thehousecafe.com. With a menu that takes you to the French located in the historical area of Cankurtaran, calamari with almond tarator and mackerel with The House Cafe Ortaköy, Salhane Sok. 1, Ortaköy, Riviera, this restaurant with high ceilings and near Sultanahmet. The skillfully prepared fish aioli. It also boasts incomparable views of the a formal garden is pure French. The cuisine T: 0212 227 2699. Off map. is especially good with rakı, and the mussel Prince’s Islands. HHHH www.galatalibalik.com. The House Cafe Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 10-11, focuses especially on the dishes of Nice and the pilaf and courgette with yoghurt come highly Plaj Yolu Sok Suadiye Park, A Blok 18, Kadıköy. Mediterranean; the grilled lamb sautéed in herbs is Teşvikiye. T: 0212 259 2377. A6. recommended. HHH Daily L & D. T: 0216 410 3959-69. Off map. one of the stars of the menu. Daily L & D. www.balikcisabahattin.com. Şehit Hasan Kuyu Sok. www.lpmistanbul.com.tr Maçka Palas, Maçka Cad. Kıyı 1, Cankurtaran, Fatih. T: 0212 458 1824. F5. 33/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0232. contemporary A unique fish restaurant on the Bosphorus with A6. Bebek Balıkçı European wood-paneled décor and photographs and Mama Shelter This restaurant located in the upmarket paintings by Turkish artists that give an intimate Designed by Philippe Starck and offering delicious Circle Brasserie neighbourhood of Bebek on the Bosphorus serves club feel. Try the delicious seafood and liver dishes. creations by French chef Jérôme Banctel, Mama Located in the Mualla Hanım Mansion, Circle a full array of seafood, with specialities including HHH Daily L & D. www.kiyi.com.tr. Haydar Aliyev Shelter’s wood ovens turn out a tempting array of Brasserie offers casual fine dining in a romantic grilled and pan-fried fish, and fish cooked in paper. Cad. 186, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0002. Off map. pide and pizzas. Other dishes include a variety of atmosphere, directly on the sparkling waters of the HHHH Daily L & D. www.bebekbalikci.net. meat dishes including beef tartare with sesame Bosphorus. The menu offers a tempting variety, Limani Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. and soy sauce. HHH Daily B & L & D. from asparagus risotto to lamb shanks, octopus The restaurant is a simple, comfortable restaurant T: 0212 263 3447. Off map. www.mamasehelter.com. İstiklal Cad. marinated in wine sauce and delicious pizzas. right on the shores of the Bosphorus. It specialises Atıf Yılmaz Sok. 50-54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 0100. D5. HHHHDaily B, L & D. www.circle.com.tr. Köybaşı Çengelköy İskele Restaurant in fresh seasonal fish with traditional sauces, plus Cad. Daire Sok. Mualla Hanım Yalısı, 5/A,Yeniköy. Best fish restaurant on the Asian side, both for favourite items such as calamari yahni: oven-baked the quality of its fish and its Bosphorus view. octopus with new potatoes, tender spinach and T: 0212 262 8455. Off map. Established as a Greek coffeehouse in the early asparagus. HHH The Grand Tarabya, INTERNATIONAL Nicole 1800s, it became a Greek tavern before assuming Haydar Aliyev Cad. 154, Tarabya, Sarıyer. 360 İstanbul Restaurant&Bar Nicole occupies an elegant terrace with a view its current form in 1950. Specialties include grilled www.thegrandtarabya.com. Commanding a full panoramic view of İstanbul

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including Hagia Sophia and the Sea of Marmara. Restaurant, Tue-Sun 10am-1am. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 28/A, Bebek. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 14, Emirgan. DJ and live performances combined with great www.saltonline.org. SALT Galata, Bankalar Cad. 11, T: 0212 263 2973. Off map. T: 0212 277 8807. Off map. cuisine, and contemporary interior at the top of Karaköy. T: 0212 243 8292. D4. Divan Brasserie Kalamış La Delicatesse Restaurant a 19th- century building. Try the Zen soup for Cafe Sofa This is an excellent choice for those looking to Looking for something different? starters, then choose from mains like filet mignon This delightful café with a simple, home-style escape the city’s hustle and bustle, a safe haven Try La Delicatesse to take in the colours of the with chili and bitter chocolate, or lamb confite, and décor, offers a menu of dishes from around the of calm and elegance where you can enjoy seaside and enjoy the enchanting moonlight with top it off with the “death by chocolate” dessert. world. In addition, it also serves its special coffee Divan chefs’ most enticing specialities, against a family and friends, and savour dishes prepared with HHHH Daily L & D. www.360istanbul.com. and cocktails day and night. HHH Daily B, L & D. backdrop of white sailboats riding at anchor. care and love. HHH Daily L & D. İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. 163, K:8, Beyoğlu. www.thesofahotel.com. The Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye HH Mon-Fri B, L & D; Fri & Sat B, L, D & N. www.cinarhotel.com.tr. Çınar Hotel Fener Mevkii, T: 0212 251 1042. C5. Cad. 41-41 A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 1818. A6. www.divan.com.tr. Amiral Fahri Korutürk Yat Limanı, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 663 2900. Off map. Agatha Restaurant Kalamış. T: 0216 414 5703. Off map. Cantinery Laledan The main restaurant of the recently-reopened Pera This restaurant, featuring decor by American Galata Kiva Boasting an open buffet breakfast with over 250 Palace Hotel, Agatha combines French, Italian and designers Roman & Willams, offers a wide range of One of the most notable products of the items with 80% organic ingredients, and Arab, Turkish flavours – all on the route of Orient Express innovative dishes including lobster burger, shrimp multicultural Ottoman civilization is its cuisine. Kiva Asian and sushi corner between 6.30am and 11am. – and presents them in a stylish atmosphere. carpaccio, codfish gyoza and mastic cheesecake. offers the perfect opportunity to rediscover the Legendary Çırağan Brunch on Sundays from 12pm- Very good wine list. HHH Daily B, L&D. The fresh Italian-style breads baked daily are secret flavours of Anatolia. Also with a branch on 4pm. Laledan Restaurant serves an all-day dining Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, especially delicious. Daily B, L & D. Zorlu Center, the Asian side. HHH Daily B, L & D. Galata Tower menu, with delicious comfort food and regional Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4000. C4. Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6365. Off map. Meydanı, Şahkulu, Şah Kapısı Sok. 4, Beyoğlu. specialties. HHHH www.kempinski.com. Çırağan T: 0212 292 98 98. C5. Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. 32, Antiochia Cipriani Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 7333. B8. This restaurant is the only place in Beyoğlu where This international restaurant chain is, famous for Hardal Nişantaşı you can find a genuine Antakya-style dürüm, its unique approach to world dining. The interior A comfortable and colourful venue designed La Torre flavored with peppers and allspice and wrapped in is striking with its walnut and earth-toned interior around the concept of “Eat, Play, Drink”, this Exclusive Located in Le Méridien İstanbul Etiler, thin lavash bread. The menu also includes Syrian, and low tables, and the menu offers all the classic funky eaterie is dominated by orange and yellow featuring creative takes on Mediterranean and Lebanese, French and Ottoman specialities such flavours of Harry’s Bar in Venice. HHH Daily L & D. décor and graffiti on the walls. Specialties include Turkish cuisine by award-winning chefs. Try the as locally spiced grilled meats, and mezes of olives www.cipriani.com. Edition Hotel, Levent Mah. hot wings, steak fajitas, and sirloin with café de stuffed köfte with cheek of beef, and the crab with zahter and hummus. HH Mon-Sat L & D. Büyükdere Cad. 2/1, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 317 7787. Paris sauce. HH Daily B, L & D. www.hardal.com.tr. tartare appetizer. HHH Daily L & D. www.antiochiaconcept.com. Asmalımescit, Off map. Teşvikiye Mah. Atiye Sok. 7, Nişantaşı. www.latorre-restaurant.com.tr. Le Meridien Minare Sok. 21, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 1100. C5. T: 0212 219 7323. A5. İstanbul Etiler, Cengiz Topel Cad. 39, Etiler. City Lights T: 0212 3840000. Off map. Bej Karaköy Commanding a breathtaking Bosphorus view from Huqqa With a menu offering both Turkish and European the roof of the Taksim Ceylan Intercontinental This world cuisine restaurant overlooking the Leb-i Derya Richmond cuisine and fresh fruit cocktails, this French-style Hotel, City Lights adds live music, delicious food, Bosphorus is dominated by lively décor featuring This is an unexpected temple of delights with a restaurant stays open into the night on weekends. fine wines and a great selection of cocktails. If it’s pastels and geometric designs. The menu includes menu including examples from world cuisines. Make sure to sample the salads and desserts. an exclusive evening you’re after, look no further. both regional Turkish and Italian dishes; the Pizza Make it a point to try their mastic-infused pudding, HH Mon-Thu 10am-12am, Fri & Sat 10am-2am. HHHH istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. Funghi Carnaval and Oreo Dream Cheesecake are and the special Derya cocktail. Minimalist décor, Sun 10am-5pm. Kemankeş Cad. Fransız Geçidi Intercontinental İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, well worth a try. No alcohol. HHH www.huqqa.com. attentive service and a glorious panoramic view of İş Merkezi, 11 A, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 7195. C5. Taksim. T: 0212 368 4444. B6. Muallim Naci Cad. 56, Kuruçeşme. the Bosphorus. HHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 265 0666. Off map. www.lebiderya.com. İstiklal Cad. 227, Richmond Big Chef Cloud7 Restaurant, Bar & Terrace Hotel K: 6, Beyoğlu, Taksim. T: 0212 243 4376. C5. Whether you’re just starting your day or going for Located on the top floor, this restaurant takes in a İst Too lunch, a coffee break or dinner, Big Chef has a great breathtaking Bosphorus view. With its new name This spot between Dolmabahçe Palace and the Masa range of choices. The rich menu, from burgers to and remodelled interior, the restaurant offers a rich Naval Museum serves fine Japanese, Southeast Dishes include salmon sashimi, bresaola followed healthy salads, filling wraps and fresh juices, is sure selection of Turkish and world cuisines. Asian, Mediterranean and Turkish dishes, including by grilled meat, poultry and fish courses, as well as to have something to appeal to everyone. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton a good selection of sushi and noodles. pizza and pide from a wood oven. The chocolate HHH Daily B, L & D. www.bigchefs.com.tr. ParkSa, Maçka Bayıldım Cad. 12. Mon-Sat L & D. HHHH www.shangri-la.com. souffle is well worth the calories. Frequented by Meşrutiyet Cad. 96, Tünel, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 258 5674. B7. Shangri-La Bopshorus, Hayrettin İskelesi Sok. 1, celebrities. HHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 251 7180. C5. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 275 8888. B7. www.masainternational.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Compass Roof Restaurant&Bar İstinyePark Shopping Centre 486, Sarıyer. Bosphorus Grill Located in the Titanic Hotel in Kartal, this spot Kız Kulesi (Maidens Tower) T: 0212 345 5323. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). This elegant, shaded restaurant overlooking the offers many special flavours ranging from seafood Located in the middle of the Bosphorus, with Bosphorus serves a tempting menu of grilled to select Far Eastern dishes. Savour the variety of superb 360-degree view, the Maiden’s Tower Maybe Salomanje meats, fish and seafood, plus Turkish favourites. cocktails while enjoying live music in the elegant serves as a coffee house during the day and Try local delicacies like stuffed chard, Turkish This summer’s surprise is a selection of specially and charming modern ambiance. HHH Daily D. restaurant in the evenings, with tasty international dumplings, mücver, cızbız köfte, çentik kebabı and marinated meats and fish cooked in an Indian-style Kaptan-ı Derya Cad. 37, Titanic Business Hotel, cuisines. Live music by local and international mosaic cake in this great spot for lunch, a romantic tandoor. HHH Daily D. Çırağan Palace Kempinski Kartal. T: 0216 453 5050. Off map. musicians after 10pm. Accessible by boat service dinner or Sunday brunch. Its bar is also highly İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. 84, Beşiktaş. departing from Salacak on the hour. popular. HHH Daily L&D. www.salomanje.com.tr. Delicatessen T: 0212 236 7333. B8/B9. HHH Daily L & D. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak Atiye Sok. 4/2, Teşvikiye. Featuring dishes that combine Turkish tastes, Mevkii, Üsküdar. T: 0216 342 4747. D7. T: 0212 327 3577. A6. Brasserie, The local ingredients and international delicacies, International and local flavours meet at this chain the extensive menu includes breakfast, starters, Kitchenette Midpoint with branches throughout İstanbul. The venue sandwiches, fresh ravioli, lasagne, meat and fish A quality chain with locations throughout İstanbul, Select varieties from international cuisines, warm makes a point of using fresh natural and organic courses as well as an extensive wine list. HHH Kitchenette boasts a broad array of dishes architecture and unparalleled presentation. Among ingredients. HHH Daily B, L & D. Daily B, L & D. www.delicatessenistanbul.com. including breakfast, starters, sandwiches, salads, the many choices, the vegetable fettucini and thin www.eliteworldhotel.com.tr. Şehit Muhtar Cad. 42, Nişantaşı, Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 19/1, Nişantaşı. pastas, meat, fish-seafood, fresh bread, cakes, and taco salad, Cajun basket, Bosphorus kebab and Elite World İstanbul Hotel, Taksim. T: 0212 225 0604. A6. Pera, Asmalımescit Mah. exclusively produced house wines, olives and olive Try Something Thai! Carribean dessert are particularly worth a try. T: 0212 313 8383. B5. Oteller Sok. 10-B, Beyoğlu. oils. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.kitchenette.com.tr. The restaurant that introduced İstanbul to Thai cuisine, ÇokÇok’s architecture and HH Daily B, L & D. www.midpoint.com.tr. T: 0212 244 8455 - 56. C4. The Marmara Taksim, Gümüşsuyu Mah. Takı Zafer Abdi İpekçi Cad. 59, Nişantaşı. Ca’d’Oro authentic décor creates the magical atmosphere of Asia. Boasting a wide selection of Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 292 6862. B6. T: 0212 219 9401. A6. Designed as a glass cube by architect Han Divan Brasserie Bebek delicious dishes, the service is fantastic, and a lounge bar with Chillout and World Music Tümertekin, Ca’ D’Oro offers fine world cuisine The brasserie offers breathtaking views and a menu La Boom completes a great evening out. Minyon from a menu composed with the guidance of that combines the best of Turkish and international New York Citty’s neighborhood styled bistro, Minyon presents world cuisine in a modern, Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 292 6496. French chef Julien Maisonneuve. Located in Salt cuisine, including classic and modern flavours, restaurant, and cafe, La Boom offers international unpretentious ambiance. Minyon’s olives, 29-day Gallery, it features a café on the ground floor and complemented by an extensive wine cellar. tastes like crab served on oyster shells, Rigatoni www.cokcok.com.tr. aged ribeye schnitzel, and chocolate almond tart a restaurant above. HHH Café, Tue-Sun 11am-2am. HHH Daily B & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Pitti or Praline fete. HHH Daily B & L & D & N. are just a few of their very special dishes. HHH

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desserts like fried banana and pineapple with İstanbul sunset. HHH www.hilton.com.tr. several Italian cities, this new venue of the market- Jamie’s Italian ice cream. Daily D. www.sarnicrestaurant.com. Daily D. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. restaurant chain offers top-quality Italian cheeses, With a creative menu featuring authentic gourmet Soğukçeşme Sok. 26, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. pastas, sauces and more. Featuring fine food and dishes made with the freshest ingredients, Jamie’s T: 0212 512 4291- 0212 513 3660. quality shopping, Eataly scores high points with its menu includes delicious köfte, chicken with F4. Vogue Restaurant & Bar HHH couscous, and treats from around the world, in a Located on the top floor of BJK Plaza, this elegant pizzas and desserts Daily 10am-11pm. Sekizİstanbul warm, welcoming environment. restaurant offers 70 different sushi varieties. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. www.eataly.com.tr. A popular spot with simple white décor, regulars HHH Daily L & D. www.jamieoliver.com. Enjoy white and red house wines as well as olive T: 0212 336 6600. Off map. love the delicious treats from its pizza oven, snack Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. selections and 37 tempting dishes, both Turkish oils exclusively prepared for Vogue against a Emporio Armani Ristorante T: 0212 353 6808. Off map. and international. HHH Daily L & D. Wed-Sat L, D & superb Bosphorus view. Reservations required. This casual dining spot features a cafe and bar on HHHH N. www.sekizistanbul.com. Kuloğlu Mah. Gazeteci Daily L & D. www.istanbuldoors.com. its lower floor. The furniture, dominated by ivory Mama Spor Cad. BJK Plaza A Blok 92, K:13, Akaretler. Erol Dernek Sok. 1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 8924. C5. and black, is accompanied by Armani sparkle on Extensive menu with pizzas straight from a T: 0212 227 4404. B7. the wall. The menu features outstanding traditional wood oven, homemade pastas and salads. Well Sky Bar established in Rumeli Hisarı, Mama now welcomes A la carte restaurant on the top floor of the Plaza Italian and Mediterranian flavours including scallops with cream sauce, capesante and classic guests in its delightfully stylish Nişantaşı location. Hotel with one of the finest panoramic views of ITALIAN HHH Daily B, L & D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 7/2, Nişantaşı. the city, featuring international cuisine and fine Italian panna cotta. HHH Daily L & D. İstinye Park Antica Locanda T: 0212 241 1152. A6. service. HHH Tue-Sun D. www.theplazahotel.com. 519, İstinye, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6140. The former bakery of the Taxiarchis Greek tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Mezzaluna Orthodox Church – İstanbul’s largest Ottoman- Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 370 2020. Mezzaluna serves cold appetizers and carpaccios, A8. Fratelli La Bufala era Greek church – is now a restaurant serving thin crust pizzas baked in a wood oven, and fresh Known for its buffalo mozzarella, this restaurant is Starboard Restaurant traditional Italian food. Favourite menu items hand-made pastas all in a colourful, cheerful also famed for its Neapolitan-style pizzas. Taste Enjoy al fresco dining complemented by a include the Sardinian-style potatoes with mint and atmosphere. HHH Daily L & D. the superb cheese on the pizzas themselves, and spectacular setting along the Bosphorus. The stuffed homemade fagottini. HHH Wed-Sat L & D; www.mezzaluna.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 21, restaurant draws local and foreign guests with its Tue-Sat D; Sun L. www.anticalocanda.com.tr. you can even order it in single 125- or 500-gram Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3142. A6. innovative Mediterranean menu highlighting fresh Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 9745. portions. Delicious! HHH Daily L & D. seafood dishes. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Çırağan Cad. Off map. www.fratellilabufalaistanbul.com. Kar Kuyusu Sok. Mirror 46, Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, Ortaköy. Trump Towers Mall, Zemin K:13 Şişli. This venue includes both a restaurant and bar in Aqua T: 0212 310 1500. B8. T: 0212 347 99 00. Off map. a minimalist interior. Predominantly Italian menu AGATHA RESTAURANT One of the most talk-about restaurants in İstanbul Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4000. Sultan Restaurant with its master chefs, unparalleled service and Elegant, wood-dominated interior reminiscent of excellent location. Modern interior. Mainly palaces surrounded by glass walls. The talented Mediterranean and Italian dishes, minestrone soup, kitchen team produces select flavours from Turkish line caught sea bass filet, mixed sea-food plate. www.minyon.com. W İstanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. T: 0212 353 6340. Off map. and world cuisines. HHHH Daily L & D. HHHH Daily B, L & D. 6am-11pm. 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. Picasso Restaurant www.grandcevahirhotel.com. Grand Cevahir Hotel, www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Bosphorus, Nikol Ottoman and Spanish cuisines are well represented Darülaceze Cad. Okmeydanı, Şişli. Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. This concept shop and kitchen turns out on Picasso’s a la carte menu and in the buffet. T: 0212 314 4242. Off map. T: 0212 381 4059. A9. chocolates, pastries, organic cookies, snacks, HHH Daily L & D. www.barcelo.com. Txm People Carluccio’s salads and more. Take a close look at the décor; Millet Cad. 186, Barceló Eresin Topkapı. Txm People’s serves delicious Turkish and The İstanbul branch of this restaurant, named after everything in this modern vintage venue is for sale! T: 0212 631 1212. Off map. international dishes and offers 64 different wines. famous chef Antonio Carluccio himself, serves HHH Daily B, L & D. www.nikolgalata.com. Serdar-ı Propaganda The cocktail list is impressive, and with music authentic Italian flavours in a relaxed, authentic Ekrem Sok. 9, Galata. T: 0212 251 5158. D5. This colourful and unusual İstanbul nightspot, covering tracks from the 70s onwards, offers atmosphere. Check out their gourmet market. Olivos Restaurant delivers with DJ performances and delicious something for locals and visitors alike. HHH Daily B, L & D. Kanyon Shopping Centre, Decorated in warm, brilliant colours, Olivos food. Propaganda’s stylish design is part of its HH Daily B & L & D & N. www.cvkhotels.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 353 0545. Restaurant’s award-winning culinary team offers trademark, as is the delicious selection of world CVK Hotels Taksim, Sıraselviler Cad. 11, Beyoğlu. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Mediterranean and international cuisine in smart, cuisine, of which beetroot risotto and lamb shank T: 0212 245 8383. C5. Cento Per Cento casual and comfortable surroundings. HHH Daily B, confit with orange count among the favourites. Turkuaz Restaurant With a concept based on everyday Italian food, HHH L & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Airport Mon-Sat L & D & N. Asmalimescit Mah. İstiklal Restaurant offering delightful international starters are served in snack-sized portions so it’s Hotel, E-5 Karayolu 20, Küçükçekmece. Cad. Suriye Pasaji, 166-10, Beyoğlu. flavours. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.dedeman.com. easy to sample a wide range of dishes. Chef’s T: 0212 411 3838. Off map. T: 0212 252 7181. C5. Dedeman İstanbul, Yıldız Posta Cad. 50, Esentepe. homemade ravioli, fresh pastas and classical Park Şamdan Remina Restaurant T: 0212 337 4500. A7. Neapolitan pizza by-the-meter are some of the A classic venue in town, Park Şamdan offers In one of the most beautiful spots on Kalamış bay, highlights. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Tuti www.centopercento.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. an extensive menu of delicious Turkish and Remina serves a tempting selection of international In the middle of the city, this stylish restaurant Zati Apt. 36, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 6202. A6. international delicacies. Wide variety of local and dishes. Try their pepper cream soup, Chalcedon boasts a menu with world flavours, plus a fine wine foreign liquors and cocktails. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. burger, and basil-parmesan bread fresh from the cellar with over 200 selections. HHH Daily B, L & D. Da Mario www.parksamdan.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 14, oven daily. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.themarmarahotels.com. The Marmara Taksim, With a typical southern Italian atmosphere Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0710. A6. Wyndham İstanbul, Fener Cad. 38, Kalamış. Taksim Meydanı. T: 0212 334 8300. B6. and delicious Mediterranean dishes including T: 0216 400 0000. Off map. homemade fresh pastas and pizzas from the wood Park Şamdan Pera Ulus 29 oven. Extensive wine list. HHHH Daily L & D. With its new location in the Rixos Pera Hotel, Park Wiew Point Restaurant Flavours from around the world by international www.istanbuldoors.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Şamdan offers fine dining featuring Turkish and The first Art Tech hotel in Turkey, Point Hotel chefs who prepare sushi and Mediterranean dishes Dilhayat Sok. 7, Etiler. T: 0212 265 5186. Off map. international specialities, plus exciting nightlife Barbaros Roof restaurant with its excellent plus Turkish specialties such as kebab and pide. spiced up by Turkish music. HHH Mon-Fri L, D & N. Bosphorus view offers an open buffet featuring the Dazzling panoramic view of Bosphorus. Booking Del Mare www.parksamdan.com. Tamer Hatun, Meşrutiyet exquisite flavours of Turkish cuisine. required. HHHH Mon-Fri L & D, Sat-Sun D. Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a Cad. 44, K:8, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 377 7000. C4. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.pointhotel.com. www.club29.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok. 71/1, delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. Point Hotel Barbaros, Esentepe Yıldız Posta Cad. Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929. Off map. Try specialities including mussel ravioli, paella, and Parlé Kebab On The Waterfront 29, Şişli. T: 0212 337 3000. A7. fish on mashed eggplant. Also accessible by boat Kaşıbeyaz Bosphorus serves all the familiar kebab restaurant dishes including köfte, This elegant and sophisticated restaurant serves Veranda Grill & Bar from Kuruçeşme on the European side. HHHH lahmacun and of course, kebab, including such unusual varieties as fresh garlic, loquat fine international cuisine in its own unique style. Sarnıç Enjoy a wonderful combination of alfresco dining Daily L & D. www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 45/1, Highlights of the menu include filet mignon with A restaurant dating to the Repuclican period with a Bosphorus view, and select Turkish and and white truffle kebabs, all against a beautiful Bosphorus view. Çengelköy. T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. Cafe De Paris sauce, roast duck and seafood salad housed in a cistern at the end of an old Ottoman international dishes including delicious kebabs and Köybaşı Cad. 10, Yeniköy. T: 0212 299 5000. www.kasibeyaz.com.tr with goat cheese. HHHH Daily L & D. street. Favourites include shrimp cocktail, crepe fresh charcoal-grilled fish and burgers. Or head to Eataly

Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Bosphorus, paçanga börek, Karsky Oriental, and the bar for a wonderful cocktail with a breathtaking With 24 branches including New York, Chicago and

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also offers delicacies from world cuisines. Chill-out Bloom of hot and cold tapas dishes, fresh seafood cosy, groove, acid jazz and beach house music This high-ceilinged spacious venue has another and Moroccan-style lamb tagine, along with between 4pm-8pm and after dinner. HHH surprise – a wide green terrace filled with 150 wine selections and cocktails. Daily L & D. Daily L & D. www.mirrorbistro.com. grapefruit, olive, pomegranate and orange trees. www.lamancha.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. 107, Suadiye Park, A Blok 2, Kat: 3, Suadiye. The stars of the menu include dishes cooked in Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 1144. Off map. T: 0216 464 2710. Off map. their stone oven; try beef tas kebabı, and köfte with kashar cheese, to name just a few. HH Mia Mensa Morini Daily B, L & D. Ambarlı Dere Cad. 6, Ortaköy. This restaurant, serving Mediterranean and Italian From the décor to the quality service, Morini is cuisine plus international dishes, is enhanced by T: 0212 288 6582. Off map. pure New York. The home-made pastas reign its enchanting Bosphorus view. Try the flounder supreme here; the favourite of celebrities such as Flamingo with lemon sauce, the four-cheese pizza and the Catherine Zeta Jones, Brad Pitt and Heidi Klum, its Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on Italian takes tiramisu. HHH www.miamensa.com. Muallim Naci dishes are created by Michelin-star chef Michael centre stage at this high-end restaurant, which Cad. 64/C, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 4214. Off map. White. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily B & L & D. converts into a nightclub after dinner. Items include Müzedechanga Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. pizzas, pastas and risottos, plus desserts including The restaurant takes in breathtaking Bosphorus T: 0212 353 6767. chocolate mousse, chocolate tart and tiramisu. Off map. views and centuries-old pine trees, with an The Prosecco cocktail comes highly recommended. excellent menu to match. Be sure to try the fresh Papermoon HHHH Mon-Sat L, D & N. www.flamingoist.com. blackeyed peas with hazelnut tarator, filet mignon This elegant venue serves unique Italian delicacies. Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. with green bulgur pilaf, tortellini with spinach and Its spacious bar and café are open all day, and T: 0212 232 6868. B6. loved by İstanbul high society. Reservations lor cheese, mosaic pastry and chestnut tiramisu. recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. Floripa HHH Tue-Sat L & D, Sat-Sun B. www.papermoon.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez This restaurant, café and bar in Rumelihisarı, on one www.changa-istanbul.com. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Shopping Centre 224, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1616. of the loveliest spots on the Bosphorus, welcomes Atlıköşk, Emirgan. T: 0212 323 0901. Off map. you with its Mediterranean food including salads, Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Orange Restaurant pastas, and pizzas cooked in a real wood oven. This venue offers the flavours of Moroccan, Piola Its vast breakfast menu makes it the ideal place to Algerian, Lebanese and Turkish cuisine. Now boasting a branch in Turkey, international spend a long, relaxing weekend morning; at night A wide variety of grills, daily set menus and chain Piola is known as the ‘pizzeria to the stars’ Floripa turns into a bar featuring great DJ sets. southern Mediterranean specialties promise with regulars in its US branches including Will HHH Daily B, L, D & N. www.d-ream.com.tr. a delightful experience. HHH Daily B, L & D. Smith and Jennifer Lopez. Three-quarters of Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı Cad. No:4 Sarıyer. www.orangemedgrill.com. Kayışdağ Cad. 1 /1, its menu consists of pizzas, with fresh toppings T: 0212 287 6220. Off map. İstanbul Marriot Hotel Asia, Ataşehir. including mozzarella, shrimp and porcini. T: 0216 570 0038. HHH Daily L & D. www.pointhotel.com. Point Otel Frankie Off map. Boasting three different sections, choose from the Barbaros, Esentepe, Yıldız Posta Cad. 29, Şişli. Sunset Grill&Bar terrace, city lounge and main restaurant. Among T: 0212 337 3000. A7. This well-known İstanbul venue offers a the most impressive offerings are their artichoke Ristorante Italia magnificient Bosphorus view accompanied by an mücver in cheese fondue, and talaş börek on a exclusive wine list and Mediterranean cuisine. With a simple, grey-dominated decor and art-lined bed of beef. Or stop by in the evening and enjoy Bar opens in the evenings, offering an entertaining walls, the menu here features traditional Italian live music along with their signature passion fruit night with a DJ. Booking required. HHHH Mon-Sat dishes created by Chef Massimo Bottura. Tue-Sun HHH cocktail. Daily L, D & N. Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye L & D. www.sunsetgrillbar.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. L & D. www.osteriafrancescana.it Zorlu Center, Cad. 41, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 6666. A6. Yol Sok. 2, Ulus. T: 0212 287 0357-58. Off map. Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 336 6600. Off map. Galliard, The Topaz Serving predominantly Spanish, French and Italian Chic restaurant offering traditional and modern lebanese cuisine, specialities at this contemporary elegant Turkish/Mediterranean cuisine. The traditional restaurant include homemade pastas, plus their Turkish menu includes yuvarlama soup and chard Al Bushra special bread with walnuts, raisins and wine. stuffed with meat and bulgur; the modern menu Nestled on the 9th flor of Hilton İstanbul, Al Bushra Tue-Sat L, D & N. Sun & Mon L & D. features roasted cheek of beef, celeriac puree, promises a delightful and unforgettable dining www.thegalliard.com. Nispetiye Cad. 104, Etiler. crème brulée with foie gras and sweet marsala experience featuring authentic Lebanese dishes T: 444 0 233. Off map. sauce. HHH Daily L & D. www.topazistanbul.com. by expert chefs, select wines and a brathtaking İnönü Cad. Devres Han 50, Gümüşsuyu. Bosphorus view. HHH Daily L & D. Halat Restaurant T: 0212 249 1001. B6. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Located inside the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, this Cad. K:9, Harbiye. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. restaurant boasts an eye-catching interior where Sir Winston Brasserie sailboats are used for décor. The menu is based on This elegantly and meticulously decorated venue Mediterranean cuisine with an extensive local and really stands out. On the menu, Italian pizzas, MEDITERRANEAN foreign wine list. HHH Daily L & D. pastas and risottos are paired with traditional wines 34 Restaurant www.halatrestaurant.com. Rahmi Koç Museum, from Turkey’s Urla region. Try their delicious salads, Kumbarhane Cad. 2, Hasköy, Sütlüce. and chicken, meat and fish marinated in a special Personalised service with live kitchen shows T: 0212 369 6616. B2. sauce for a feast fit for a king – and top it off with a form just part of the exclusive atmosphere at 34 splendid dessert. HHH Şair Nedim Cad. 3, Beşiktaş, Restaurant. Its ‘Food under the Sun’ concept, Lacivert Akaretler. T: 212 259 9919. based on Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine, Exquisite Mediterranean flavours combined with B7. ensures a unique dining experience. Daily L & D, a most romantic Bosphorus view. The restaurant X Restaurant Taşkışla Cad. 1, Taksim, Beyoğlu. delights its guests with seasonally changing menus New venue located on the 6th floor of the T: 0212 368 1234. C4. and excellent seafood. Anything that comes out İstanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts. Mainly of the sea, from calamari to octopus, mussels and Mediterranean menu offers risottos, pastas, pizzas A’jia Restaurant shrimp as well a vast selection of fish. and desserts plus Turkish dishes. HHH Daily L & D. With its unique fusion of contemporary Brunch on Sundays. HHHH Daily L & D. www.xrestaurantbar.com. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, interior design and 18th-century architecture www.lacivertrestaurant.com. Körfez Cad. 57/A, Şişhane. T: 0212 244 7101. C5. in a spectacular Bosphorus-front location, this Anadolu Hisarı, Beykoz. T: 0216 413 4224. Off map. restaurant has a reputation for quality service. Yelken Restaurant HHHH Daily B, L & D. www.ajiahotel.com. La Mancha Boasting lovely Bosphorus views, this modern Çubuklu Cad. 27, A’jia Hotel, Ahmet Rasim Paşa Serving a mix of Italian, Moroccan and Spanish restaurant serves an excellent selection of classical Yalısı, Kanlıca. T: 0216 413 9300. Off map. cuisine, La Mancha offers a delicious variety Turkish fish dishes plus original Mediterranean

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flavours including moules marineieres, surf and Pera Thai emphasis of seasonal ingredients. Located on its delightful specialities. HHH Mon-Sat D. Sofyalı 9 turf, seafood linguini and paella. HHH Daily L & sPECIAL SPOTS Outstanding presentation of Thai cuisine, which the terrace floor of The Marmara Taksim, and www.refikrestaurant.com. Asmalımescit Cad. Turkish and Greek tunes provide the background has risen to prominence in recent years. Jazz and to warm conversation, while at least 25 mezes D. www.yelkenrestaurant.com. Köybaşı Cad. 58, Mahalle boasting a panoramic view of the city, the bar with Sofyalı Sok. 6, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2834. C4. ethnic music tunes provide a smooth ambiance for tempt the taste buds - firm classis like chard stuffed Yeniköy. T: 0212 262 9490. Off map. Located on the top floor of City’s Nişantaşı its magnificent view is the perfect spot for early dinners. Original flavours and exotic atmosphere Seasons with mince meat, çoban kavurma, fincan pastry shopping centre, Mahalle offers a variety of evening get-togethers. HHHH Daily L, D & N. from Thailand brought to guests in a simple interior Spacious antique-themed interior surrounded and ‘Albanian style’ diced fried liver, to seafood services under one roof from a butcher to a flower The Marmara Taksim Hotel, 20/F, Taksim. decorated with authentic objects. by glass. Seasons Restaurant serves Turkish delicacies like mussels in red wine sauce, grilled MODERN OCAKBAŞI shop, greengrocer, bookstore and coffee shop. T: 0212 2433773. C5. Mon-Sat L & D. HHH www.perathai.com. specialities featuring local products Braised shrimp and octopus. Daily L, D&N. Ali There’s something for every need and occasion. Meşrutiyet Cad. 74/A,Beyoğlu. Refik Restaurant Artichoke, Hengel Ravioli, cold cress-nettle soup www.sofyali.com.tr. Asmalımescit Cad. Sofyalı Sok. With a view of the historic peninsula, high ceilings Daily 10am-10pm. www.citysnisantasi.com. T: 0212 245 5726. C4. One of the best taverns in town for 65 years, and puff pastry with lamb ragout. HHHH Daily B, 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3810. C4. and a modern design, Ali’s menu is devoted mainly Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. this spot is an İstanbul classic with its congenial L & D, Sunday brunch. www.fourseasons.com. to kebabs and meats. Specialities include their Yeni Lokanta Trump Cadde atmosphere. Pastırma in paper, ‘Albanian style’ Tevfikhane Sok. 1, Four Seasons Sultanahmet Rustical, and decorated simply with tiles, trees signature Ali Kebap and the traditional pumpkin Located on the terrace floor of Trump Towers TURKISH fried diced liver, and lamb roulade are just a few of Hotel, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 402 3000. E5. and flowers, Yeni Lokanta serves traditional dishes dessert served with tahini and ice cream. HHH Shopping Centre, this is home to event spaces plus Casita made with ingredients from Anatolia. The bulgur Daily L & D. Arap Camii Mah. Tersane Cad. 45/ 4, brands including Limonata, Bali Bey, Nezih Kebap, Very popular for its mantı, a Turkish dumpling salad with sour cherries, mantı filled with dried Grifin Han, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 1011. C5 Rumi Tantuni, Fiorucci, PapaBubble and Plus served with yoghurt, and tripe soup, Casita also eggplant and rice pudding with hazelnuts are some Kitchen. It’s an ‘avenue with a view’ which creates offers temptations like Bodrum’s famous çökertme of the must-try offerings. HH Mon-Sat L & D. the carefree spirit of the street. new anatolıan kebab, garlic mushroom casserole and “paper www.lokantayeni.com. Kumbaracı Yokuşu 66, Karkuyusu Sok. Şişli. T: 0212 3487867. Off map. doll” dessert. This restaurant is open 24 hours Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 2550. C5. Mikla daily. HH Daily L&D. www.casita.com.tr. Atiye Sok. Mikla opened in October 2005. The initial idea was 3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 8293. A6. Zeyrekhane to create a refined but contemporary “İstanbullu” steakhouse Near the Zeyrek mosque, originally part of a Çintemani Restaurant Restaurant. Both the menu and the general feel monastary, and entered through old wooden Maçka Günaydın Et Restaurant Named after one of the most important motifs in of the Restaurant reflect the Turkish-Scandinavian With a wood-dominated, historic feel, this spot houses, this restaurant offers a breathtaking view of traditional Ottoman art, this venue is open all day. Süleymaniye Mosque, the Blue Mosque and other background of Mehmet Gürs. HHHH Mon-Sat D. serves a variety of kebabs and meats. Try the Menu inspired by the most distinguished dishes of historic landmarks from its terrace. The Turkish www.istanbulyi.com. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet smoked meat platter, succulent steaks and the the Mediterranean and Ottoman Court cuisines. cuisine is complemented by a warm and nostalgic Cad. 94, K:7, Taksim. T: 0212 293 5656. C4. hand-churned ayran HHH Daily L & D. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily 6:30am-11pm. interior filled with original paintings, imperial www.gunaydinet.com. Swissôtel the Bosphorus, www.ritzcarlton.com. The Ritz-Carlton, İstanbul, edicts, quilted turbans, calligraphy and ornate tiles, Bayıldım Cad. 2, Maçka. T: 0212 258 1203. B7. Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 334 4188. ottoman Off map. all originals.www.zeyrekhane.com. HHH N Burger Günaydın Tue-Sun B, L & D. Zeyrek Mah. İbadethane Arkası Asitane Restaurant This cosy restaurant’s menu includes the Nusret This simply-decorated two-storey restaurant, with Sok. 10, Zeyrek, Fatih. T: 0212 532 2778. D3. Specializing in Ottoman Court cuisine, this is an Burger, Lokum Burger and Sucuklu Burger, along a spacious garden, serves delicious kebabs and exciting venue with a menu based on the 1539 with a selection of köfte and meats. The tulum other grilled meats. The mainstays of the menu ‘Book of Feasts’. The menu offers specialties like cheese salad and baklava are some of its most are the fındık lahmacun (an appetizer-sized version TURKISH (MODERN) chestnut soup, shrimp-stuffed calamari, hassa popular dishes. Daily L & D. www.d-ream.com.tr. of the familiar ‘Turkish pizza’), stuffed köfte and Boğaziçi Borsa börek, kırma chicken kebab, sea bass biryan and Abdi Ipekçi Cad. 57/A, Reasürans Çarşısı, Nişantaşı. chopped kebabs, including their special pistachio A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s HHH saffron-scented zerde for dessert. Daily L & D. T: 0212 231 2470-71. A6. kebab. HHH Daily L&D. Kazım Özalp Cad. 58, updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish www.asitanerestaurant.com. Kariye Camii Sok. 6, Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 417 9209. Off map. Nusr-Et cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. Edirnekapı. T: 0212 635 7997. C2. In keeping with Nusret’s decor, meats are brought Karaköy Lokantası Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. Matbah on teak planks and served on white porcelain. The Located across from the customs house, this HHH Daily L & D. www.borsa.com. Offering authentic specialities from Ottoman restaurant focuses on meat, salads and wine; meats restaurant looks like a French bistro from the Lütfi Kırdar Convention & Exhibition Centre, Palace cuisine in an historical setting, Matbah in are cooked to order. HHH Daily L & D. Nispetiye outside, but the Ottoman style interior with its Harbiye. T: 0212 232 4201. the Historical Peninsula is surrounded by iconic Cad. 87, Etiler. T: 0212 358 3022. Off map. turquoise tiles and wrought iron railings gives A6. buildings like Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. the feel of a warm, welcoming tavern. Specialities The Market @ Bosphorus Borsa HHH Daily B, L&D. www.matbahrestaurant.com. include mezes like mashed broad beans and A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s Minimalist design meets classic Turkish and world smoked octopus, plus skewered lamb and fish Caferiye Sok. 6/1, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 514 6151. F4. cuisine, with classic meats, steaks and burgers, plus updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish pastrami. HHH Daily L & D. Kemankeş Cad. 37/A, foie gras and a selection of seafood. Daily B, cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. Tuğra Restaurant Karaköy. T: 0212 292 4455. D5. HHH Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the A favourite of gourmets, this venue serves classical L & D. Kuruçeşme Mah. Muallim Naci Cad. 56, Kuruçeşme. Ma’na entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. Ottoman dishes accompanied by live Turkish T: 0212 257 4111. A nostalgic venue with a meyhane atmosphere, HHH Daily L&D. www.borsa.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. classical music in an authentic atmosphere on the A9. serving Turkish delicacies with Turkish semi- İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Sarıyer. waterfront. HHHH Daily D. Steak N More Istan’bull classical music in the background. The impressive T: 0212 345 5333. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). www.kempinski-istanbul.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, Synonymous with its chef Fikret Özdemir (p. 4), this rakı menu offers 33 different varieties. As in any Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Beşiktaş. Core Grill & Bar restaurant concentrates mostly on meat and fish. meyhane, the mezes reign supreme; they also serve Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia’s restaurant T: 0212 258 3377. B8. All dishes are made from 100% Turkish meat, plus a very good kadayıf pastry for dessert. is bright, relaxed and friendly. Ingredients from its local cheese and wines. Try the piri piri shrimp, HHH Mon-Sat L&D. Kemankeş Mah. Fransız Geçidi lamb shanks, and künefe for dessert. HHH Daily L various cuisines blend harmoniously with Turkish 53/8, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 0993. D5. PUB & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Hotel, dishes, with the chef’s specialties including chicken İstanbul Şişli, 19 Mayıs Cad. 12, Şişli. Peymane schnitzel with kadayıf pastry and their Core kebab. Divan Pub Elmadağ T: 0212 375 0000. Located in a five-storey registered historical HH Daily L & D. www.radissonblu.com. The extensive and tempting menu includes a range Off map. building, the restaurant also contains a charcuterie Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia, Yakut Cad. of local specialties, including döner kebab. with fine cheeses and cold meats. Above the Ataşehir. T: 0216 579 1100. Off map. Daily B & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, thaı entrance is a VIP salon, with an indoor dining room Flavours of the French Riviera Dai Pera Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. on the top floor. The kebab grill lends an elegant La Petite Maison blends French and Mediterranean cuisine with the fresh seasonal ÇokÇok Thai Restaurant & Bar Blending İstanbul’s vast history of Balkan, decorative touch. HHH Daily L & D. ingredients and cooking methods of the Côte d’Azur and Liguria, for a host of new, Ph Pub Rich authentic Thai menu in a sophisticated Rumelian, Albanian, Jewish and Armenian www.peymane-lacucina.com. A wide variety of appetizer buffets, grills and setting. Created by an award-winning female Thai creative flavours. Some of the most popular offerings include pan-fried goose liver, elements with a modern vision, the venue offers Tomtom, Boğazkesen Cad. 65/1, Tophane. desserts are served from 11:30am to 8:30pm in PH chef, designed by renowned Singaporean architect filet of moray, and lamb cutlets with smoked aubergine. traditional İstanbul flavours including white bean T: 0212 244 0955. C5. pub on the lobby floor. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Kay Ngee Tan, and managed by a London-trained Maçka Palas, Maçka Cad. 33 B, Şişli. stew with meat, Albanian-style liver, baked mantı www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, management team. HHH Daily L & D. Raika and quince dessert. HH Mon-Thu 9am-2am. T: 0212 2320232. www.lpmistanbul.com.tr The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. www.cokcok.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. The immensely varied cuisine of Anatolia is Fri&Sat 9am-4am. Sun 10am-2am. Yeni Çarşı Cad. T: 0212 370 2020. A8. T: 0212 292 6496. C4. served in an innovative presentation, with strong 54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 8099. C5.

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Divan Lokanta Located in the Süleymaniye complex and www.borsarestaurant.com. Adile Sultan Sarayı, Divan Lokanta creates an innovative menu by seating over 1000, Darüzziyafe is an ideal place Vaniköy Cad. 12, Vaniköy, Üsküdar. combining the best of Turkish and Mediterranean to experience select Turkish dishes along with T: 0216 460 0304. Off map. dining, plus Divan’s signature dishes. The delicious sherbets and desserts. HH Daily L & copper-leaf bar and ceiling-hung glass sculptures D. www.daruzziyafe.com.tr. Şifahane Cad. 4, Kaşıbeyaz Bophorus Don’t be misled by its thoroughly modern 21st- shimmering golden red set the tone in an inviting Süleymaniye. T: 0212 511 8414. E3. and elegant atmosphere, with countless vintage century decor; this restaurant serves traditional wines in illuminated racks. HHH Daily L & D. Develi Turkish cuisine. Dominated by meat and kebabs, www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Located on legendary Kalamış Bay, Develi offers the menu also features home-style dishes and a a delightful atmosphere and stylish decor. Fine variety of sautéed and fried dishes. Daily L & D. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Gaziantep and Turkish specialties include Ali Nazik www.kasibeyaz.com.tr Köybaşı Cad. 10, Yeniköy. FerahFeza kebab, küşneme, maş piyazı, muhammara, and T: 0212 299 5000. Off map. With décor alluding to the local artisan tradition, Antep style stuffed dried eggplants. HHH this new venue boasts two breezy terraces Daily L & D. www.develikebap.com. Konyalı Kanyon overlooking Galata Tower and the Historic Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cad. Kalamış Marina, Konyalı is run by the fourth generation of the family, Mehmet Eren Doğanbey. Exclusive concept Peninsula. Favourites on the menu include salmon Kadıköy. T: 0216 418 9400. Off map. in vine leaves with tahini sauce, and bean casserole and ambiance, the fine menu and luxurious with grilled octopus. HHH Daily B, L, D & N. Feriye Lokantası presentation on gold-plated service all add up to www.ferahfeza-ist.com. Kemankeş Cad. 31/5, Historical building that housed a police station a a memorable meal. HH Daily L & D. century ago. Menu offers Turkish and Ottoman www.konyalilokantasi.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Karaköy. T: 0212 243 5154-55. D5. cuisines, with excellent Bosphorus views and stylish Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. Gile Restaurant ambiance. Specialities include sauteed lamb T: 0212 353 0450. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). Young chefs Cihan Kıpçak and Üryan Doğmuş add fillet and pumpkin dessert. Heated terrace in Konyalı Lokantası Topkapı Sarayı a contemporary edge to familiar flavours, creating winter. HHHH Daily L & D. www.feriye.com. Çırağan Once home to the Ottoman Sultans, Topkapı new flavours such as filet mignon with fenugreek, Cad. 40, Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 2216. Off map. 24-hour lamb shank, and Saroz shrimp grilled over Palace now offers its unparalleled Bosphorus view red pine. HHH Daily L & D. Hacı Abdullah Lokantası to diners. Enjoy the views and historical ambiance www.gilerestaurant.com. Şair Nedim Cad. A long-established restaurant with a 121-year while savouring fine Turkish cuisine. Specialties Akaretler, Sıra Evler B Blok. 14, Akaretler. history, ensuring continuity of Ottoman culinary include stuffed lamb, hünkar beğendi, islim kebabı tradition, serves specialities including lamb-based and a rich selection of desserts. HHH Wed-Mon L & T: 0212 327 1166. A7/B7. meat dishes as well as soups and pilafs. D. www.konyalilokantasi.com. Topkapı Palace. Münferit HH Daily L & D. www.haciabdullah.com.tr. T: 0212 513 9696. E5. This chic, modern tavern-style restaurant is right at Atıf Yılmaz Cad. 9/A, Taksim. T: 0212 293 8561. C5. the entrance of the Galata Residence. The menu Köşebaşı offers a combination of traditional and modern Hamdi Et Lokantası This internationally-recognized chain restaurant flavours, including marinated sea bass, hot grilled A classic İstanbul dining experience, this offers meat dishes from Adana and Tarsus region shrimp on humus, black couscous with mussels, restaurant’s glass-covered terrace offers a based on traditional recipes. The gavurdağı Toros, poached sea bass with clams, and shredded cheek panoramic view of the city. With more than 40 Abaganos fındık lahmacun, şaşlık kebab and of beef with orzo. HHH Mon-Sat D. kebabs on the menu; plum kebab and poppy seed semolina halvah are especially good. Playground Yeni Çarşı Cad. 19, Taksim. kebab are highly recommended. HHH Daily L&D. available for the kids. HH Daily L & D. www.hamdirestorant.com.tr. Tahmis Cad. www.kosebasi.com. Bronz Sok. 5, Maçka, T: 0212 252 5067. C5. Kalçın Sok. 11, Eminönü. T: 0212 230 3868. A6. Okka T: 0212 512 5424. D4. With turquoise ceramic columns and antique Mabeyin diamond-cut mirrors, Okka is definitely not your Havuzlu Lokanta Located in the historical Mabeyinci Manor. Enjoy usual kebab restaurant. A welcoming atmosphere Experience five centuries of history in this traditional Turkish cuisine in an exquisite setting. combines with a unique selection of mezes and restaurant nestled in the Grand Bazaar, featuring Ideal choice for those who want to combine history kebab. Highly recommended are the beef ribs, exquisite Ottoman architecture. Specialties among with the distinct flavours of southeastern Turkish lamb küşneme (the finest cut of meat for kebab), its home-style dishes include mashed eggplant, cuisine in a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. HHH steaks and the wonderfully varied meze plate. roasted lamb and Abant-style kebab. HH Mon-Sat Daily L & D. www.mabeyin.com. Eski Kısıklı Cad. 7, HHH Daily L & D. www.wistanbul.com.tr. L. www.havuzlurestaurant.com. Gani Çelebi Sok. 3, Kısıklı. T: 0216 422 5580. Off map. W İstanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, 3/F, Akaretler. Kapalıçarşı, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3346. E4. Nar Lokanta T: 0212 381 2189. B7. Hünkar Nişantaşı With its menu of traditional Turkish and Ottoman Cosy, spacious, serving traditional Turkish dishes specialities, Nar Lokanta celebrates the Ottoman Surplus With views of both the historic peninsula and Pera, and desserts. Popular choices include wrapped culinary tradition. Outstanding dishes include this restaurant serves fine Turkish cuisine. Must-try liver, tandoori lamb stew and lamb casserole with stuffed köfte, palace-style mantı, and şekerpare dishes include the roast lamb, satır köftesi and lamb yoghurt; for a truly Turkish dining experience with figs and poppyseeds.HHH Mon-Sat L & D. taraklık. HHH www.surplus.com.tr. Ragıp Gümüş Cad. try the lamb’s trotter soup, hünkar beğendi and www.narlokantasi.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 41, K:5, HH 54, Kat:3-4, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 1002. E5. semolina halvah. Daily L & D. Mim Kemal Öke Çemberlitaş. T: 0212 522 2800. E4. Cad. 21, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 4665. A6. Pandeli TURKISH (tradıtıonal) Kanaat Lokantası An İstanbul classic located in the Egyptian Market, Kanaat offers a stunning menu of 100-120 dishes its walls are covered with glamorous İznik tiles. Beyti prepared daily including meat dishes, olive oil With its Turkish delicacies, Pandeli is an ideal stop Frequented by kings, prime ministers, celebrities dishes, desserts, ice creams and yoghurt. during a visit to the old city and the markets. and high society, this restaurant enjoys worldwide No alcohol. HH Daily L & D. Daily 6:30pm-11:30pm. HH Daily L. www.pandeli.com.tr. Mısır Çarşısı 1, fame for its meat dishes. An indisputable master of www.kanaatlokantasi.com.tr. Selmanipak Cad. 9, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3909. E5. meat cookery with a dish named after him, owner Üsküdar. T: 0216 341 5444. D8. Beyti Güler handpicks the ingredients. Its chorcoal Safran grilled meats are divine. HHH Tue-Sun L & D. Kandilli Borsa Multi-award winning venue with a magnificent www.beyti.com. Orman Sok. 8, Florya. Excellent ambiance in the garden of the historical Bosphorus view matched by a Turkish and Adile Sultan Palace on a hilltop overlooking a Ottoman-themed menu and interior. Live classical T: 0212 663 2991. Off map. dazzling Bosphorus view. Top Ottoman palace Turkish music every Wed and Fri. HHH Daily D. Darüzziyafe dishes and traditional Turkish cuisine, the menu istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. Intercontinental Superb Turkish cuisine, with a lengthy menu also includes surprising blends of Mediterranean, İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. reflecting centuries of Turkish dining traditions. and Far Eastern cuisines. HHH Daily L & D. T: 0212 368 4444. B6.

64 WHERE İstanbul I july 2014 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency, Medical Emergency Ambulance Public. Open 24 hours. T: 112. Medline Private ambulance service. Open 24 hours. T: 0212 331 2000-444 1212. American Hospital Vehbi Koç Foundation American Hospital is a foundation-owned, acute general care hospital. Each year the Hospital serves 150.000 patients, providing a comprehensive array of primary care and specialty services. The medical staff includes over 500 active and visiting physicians. The Hospital is accredited by the Joint Commission International. www.amerikanhastanesi.org. Güzelbahçe Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 444 3777. Medamerican Outpatient Clinic MedAmerican Outpatient Clinic, located on the Asian side of İstanbul, is an outpatient clinic of the American Hospital. The clinic offers a wide array of medical, surgical, and ancillary health care services. www.medamerikan.com. Cemil Topuzlu Cad. 46 Çiftehavuzlar. T: 0216 468 2555.

Emergency, Dental Byomed Private medical centre that puts patient Ask The Concierge satisfaction first and approaches patients with empathy, offering services with a live support system. www.byomed.com.tr. ByOtell, Kozyatağı This month, we spoke with Koray Çağıran, Sarı Kanarya Sok. 14. T: 0216 571 6140. concierge at the Hilton İstanbul Bomonti Hotel. Dentistanbul First and only dedicated dental hospital in Turkey. Specialised and experienced staff, fully equipped operating room, ambulance and bed services. www.dentistanbul.com.tr. Yıldız Cad. 71, Beşiktaş. hat kind of city is İstanbul in Bosphorus cruise with dinner and a belly T: 0212 444 0347. your eyes? dance performance. Pharmacies İstanbul is a city of thousand W Where do you like to spend your free Pharmacies are open during day until 7:30pm. international flights but mainly domestic flights, tastes, with both a historic and modern time in İstanbul? Every day, a different pharmacy remains open Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. T: 0212 444 2538. airports plus all the budget airlines. Transport to and from fabric, and something to appeal to for 24 hours as a night pharmacy in every Atlasjet After breakfast at Aşşk Kahve on the the airport include city buses, and taxis. As the neighbourhood. The names of the night www.atlasjet.com. T: 0212 444 3387. İstanbul has two major international airports; one everyone. water’s edge in Kuruçeşme, a trip to the airport is far away from central locations, ground pharmacies are displayed on the window of on the European side and the other on the Asian British Airways services provider Havataş also runs buses to and If your guests had just one day in İstanbul, islands is a wonderful choice. When it every pharmacy. Pharmacists can check blood side. www.britishairways.com.tr. Maslak Mah. Bilim Sok. where would you send them? comes to restaurants, Bilice Karafırın in pressure, dress minor wounds and provide from Kozyatağı and Taksim. 5, K:15, Şişli. T: 0212 367 9292. Atatürk Airport Havataş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. I recommend my guests begin their Asmalımescit and the liver kebab eateries recommendations on medical assistance. The first and largest of İstanbul’s two airports www.havas.com.tr. www.treczane.com. Emirates this is situated 24km west of the city centre, on exploration of the city with Topkapı Palace, in Aksaray’s Horhor neighbourhood are Sabiha Gökçen Airport T: 0216 585 5000. www.emirates.com. Şişli Plaza, 19 Mayıs Cad. 5/7, the European side. With both international and then enjoy authentic Turkish flavours at wonderful, with delicious food and a Useful Numbers www.sabihagokcen.aero. A Blok K:8, Şişli. T: 0212 315 4545. domestic flights operating round the clock, it Hamdi Restaurant in Eminönü. From there, relaxed atmosphere. İstanbul Directory, 11811. Gulf Air boasts fully equipped emergency health services. LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE they can visit the Spice Bazaar, and then Turkcell Directory 11832. , www.gulfair.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. 131, Harbiye. The airport is accessible by metro; however, a taxi Sabiha Ökçen Airport: International Terminal Lost Avea Directory 11855. check out the submarine and old cars at , T: 0212 231 3450. is recommended, particularly if carrying heavy Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8802. Domestic Vodafone Directory, 11842. the Rahmi Koç Museum. luggage. Regular shuttle buses run by ground Terminal Lost Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8650. Same Area Calls, just the 7 digit number. KLM services provider Havataş approx every 30 mins Please share some of your favourite Area Codes in İstanbul, Europen Side: 212, www.klm.com.tr. Emirhan Cad. 145, Atakule A Blok depart to and from Taksim, stopping at Aksaray, lesser-known spots. Asian Side: 216. K:14, Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 310 1900. Etiler and Bakırköy. Check for schedule. AIRPORT TRANSFER I love the tucked-away Rüstem Paşa From Area to Area, 0+area code+number Lufthansa Havaş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. Havataş: Offers shuttle services to and from the International, 0+0+ country code+area www.lufthansa.com.tr. Atatürk Airport International Mosque in Eminonu with its magnificent www.havas.com.tr. airport every half hour between Atatürk Airport- code+number. Terminal, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 354 8888. tile work, the historic streets of Fener and Atatürk Airport Enq T: 0212 463 3000. Taksim and Sabiha Gökcen Airport-Kadıköy / Balat, and the breathtaking Byzantine Pegasus Airlines www.ataturkairport.com. Sabiha Gökcen Airport-Taksim. mosaics of Kariye Museum. airLINEs www.flypgs.com. T: 0212 444 0737. LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE www.havatas.com.tr. T: 444 44 36. Atatürk Airport: TAV-(International and Domestic Which bars and clubs are most popular Air France Singapore Airlines www.airfrance.com.tr. www.singaporeair.com. EGS Business Park Plazaları Terminals Lost Luggage Office) T: 0212 465 3000. now? Emirhan Cad. 145 Atakule A Blok Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. B2, K:8, 278, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 463 1800. Sabiha Gökçen Airport GETTING AROUND Anjelique, Reina and Sortie are three of the T: 0212 310 1919. Turkish Airlines (Thy) Located on the Asian side, Sabiha Gökçen Airport Buses city’s top night spots. For a classic Turkish Anadolu Jet www.turkishairlines.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. is 40km from Kadıköy, 12km from Pendik and 50km City buses are run by the İstanbul Metropolitan evening, they might consider Turna Tour’s www.anadolujet.com.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. T: 0212 444 0849. from Taksim. A smaller airport, this has some Municipality. Payment is with the İstanbul Kart – an

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Cemal Reşit Rey Konser Salonu Altı, Harbiye. Greece, www.greekembassy.org.tr. Turnacıbacı elegance of Swissôtel to the Bosphorus as well T: 0212 444 9977. TOURISM polıce with its fine decor and food service. Brunch, lunch Sok. 32, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 393 8290. Yerebatan Cad. 6, Sultanahmet. and dinner served during the tours. Rentel T: 0212 527 4503. Germany, www.germanembassyank.com. T: 0212 326 1100 ext. 8272. Providing a top-notch car rental service to İsmet İnönü Cad. 16/18, Gümüşsuyu. İstanbul’s visitors with its expert rental staff. Sea Taxis T: 0212 334 6100. Dependable, well-equipped luxury car fleet, V.I.P. www.deniztaksi.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4498. India, www.indembassy.org.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. chauffeured vehicles, rental and VIP transfer BOSPHORUS TOURS Su Samuru services, with efficient, quality service. 18/7, Dörtler Apt. Elmadağ. T: 0212 296 2131. With their specially built boats and a well-trained www.rentel.com.tr. Irmak Cad. Kaşkaval Sok. 21, Private Bosphorus Yacht Tours Italy, www.consistanbul.esteri.it. Boğazkesen team of captains, this sea taxi gives 24-hour service Beyoğlu. T: 0212 444 1 434 These VIP yachts will give you a Bosphorus Cad. Tom Tom Kaptan Sok. 15, Tophane, Beyoğlu. year round. www.su-samuru.com. experience like no other. Recommended by T: 0212 252 5437. T: 0533 777 7718. sıghtseeıng Istanbul’s finest hotels including the Swiss Hotel, Four Seasons, The Ritz Carlton and more, our Japan, Büyükdere Cad. 209, Tekfen Tower K:10, 4. Big Bus Tours yachts will give you all the comforts of a 5-star Levent. T: 0212 317 4600. HELI SERVICES Big Bus Tours provides the perfect introduction hotel as you enjoy the beauty of the Bosphorus. Kaan Air to İstanbul, a city that straddles two continents: A special occasion in one of our yachts will go Korea, Kaptanpaşa Mah. Piyale Paşa Bulvarı, Kaan Air offers helicopter sales, rentals, VIP Europe and Asia. This carefully designed tour from special to unforgettable. Orta Doğu Plaza K:19, Okmeydanı, Şişli. transportation and air taxi services. takes people to the major landmarks and historic www.kiraliktekneler.com. Halil Rıfat Paşa Mah. T: 0212 368 8398. Kemerburgaz Cad. Suvatlar Sok. 1, Ayazağa . sites. www.bigbustours.com. Ertan Sok. İstanbul Apt. No: 26 / 1-3 Şişli Malaysia, Halaskargazi Cad. 150, Çankaya Apt. T: 0532 111 9992 - 93. www.kaanair.com Bindirdirek Mah. Dostluk Yurdu Sok. Yeşil Apt. 1/5, T: 0212 251 5272. K:4, D:7, Şişli. T: 0212 247 1728. Sultanahmet. T:0212 283 1396. offıce space rental YACHT Russia, www.turkey.mid.ru. İstiklal Cad. 219, SPECIAL TOURS Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 5101. Sürmeli Business Floor & Lounge M/Y Halas 71 Offers guests a comfortable working environment İstanbul Walks The M/Y Halas, featuring luxury yacht service and Saudi Arabia, Konaklar Mah. Çamlık Cad. with breakfast and food service throughout the The only travel agency which organises more rich decor from Haremlique, offers personalized Akasyalı Sok. 6, 4. Levent. T: 0212 281 9140. day, a 360° panoramic view of İstanbul, wireless than 40 İstanbul tours in English, inc the Istanbul food service all day long. www.myhalas.com. South Africa, www.southafrica.org.tr. internet, computers, and a meeting room free of Classic, Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe Palace, the Tokmak Burnu, İstinye. T: 0549 334 2104. Alarko Holding A.Ş. Muallim Naci Cad. 69, charge for one hour. Daily 7am-11pm. Jewish Quarter, Blue Mosque Area, Bosphorus Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 5200. www.sürmelihotels.com. Prof. Dr. Bülent Tarcan Cruise, Walk in Asia and much more. consulates www.istanbulwalks.com. electronic card purchased for a deposit fee at to agree a price in advance. Sok. 3, Gayrettepe. T: 0212 272 1161. Spain, Karanfil Aralığı Sok. 16, 1. Levent. Şifahamamı Sok. 1, K:1, Sultanahmet. Argentina, Süzer Plaza, Askerocağı Cad. 9, K: 16, sales points. Valid on buses, trams, metro and These are a safe mode of transport day and night. T: 0212 270 7410. Windowist T: 0212 516 6300-01. 34367, Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 243 1170. ferries, it is easily charged at machines located in Windowist raises the bar on the instant office Train Switzerland, Büyükdere Cad. 173, 1. Levent many stations, and provides half-price transfers. Azerbaijan, Sümbül Sok. 17/1, Levent. concept with full office services 24/7, offering TOURISM Plaza A Blok K:3, Levent. T: 0212 283 1282. Ticket prices vary according to distance. SİRKECİ TRAIN STATION smart, innovative solutions in İstanbul’s financial T: 0212 325 8042. TCDD station located on the European side. www.iett.gov.tr. and residential centre of Maslak. City Tourim and Culture Directorate United Arab Emirates, China, www.chinaembassy.org.tr. Kireçburnu Information Line T: 0800 211 6068, Visitors may buy tickers at the counter here for all www.windowist.com. Eski Büyükdere Cad. 26, Maslak. www.istanbulkulturturizm.gov.tr. Main Office, Alay www.uaeconsulate.com.tr. Mah. Mısırlı Cad. Memduhpaşa Yalısı 6/8, Sarıyer. Headquarters T: 0212 245 0720. destinations to Europe and elsewhere in Turkey. T: 0212 214 7000. Köşkü, Gülhane Parkı içi, Eminönü. Büyükdere Cad. Meşeli Sok. 11, 4. Levent. T: 0212 299 2634. Trains to anatolian Turkey depart from Haydarpaşa T: 0212 528 6821. Branch, At Meydanı 31, T: 0212 317 9257. Ferries station near Kadıköy on the asian side. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1800. Egypt, Konaklar Mah. Akasyalı Sok. 26, 4. Levent. City ferries operate out from Sirkeci, Eminönü For enquiries, www.tcdd.gov.tr. T: 0212 527 0050. United Kingdom, www.britishembassy.org.tr. Private İstanbul T: 0212 324 2133. and Karaköy piers all day long to the Bosphorus, Tourism Information Offices Meşrutiyet Cad. 34, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. Seabuses the Asian side, and Princess Islands. Tours Sultanahmet, At Meydanı, T: 0212 5181802 - Finland, Yeni Çamlık Cad. Ayaz Sok. 5, 4. Levent. T: 0212 334 6400. Visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr. for the latest Seabuses operate on 19 lines, and serve 32 points. 0212 5187454. Taksim, Hilton Hotel entrance, İstanbul Tour Studio T: 0212 283 5737. USA, www.istanbul.usconsulate.gov. updated timetables. T: 0212 444 1851. www.ido.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4436. Elmadağ, Taksim. T: 0212 233 0592. Bringing new meaning to quality in city tours and İstinye Mah. Kaplıcalar Mevkii 2, İstinye. Yeşilköy, Atatürk Airport, Yeşilköy. France, www.consulfrance-istanbul.org. İstiklal Metro FAST FERRY LINES tour guides, the skilled İstanbul Tour Studio team T: 0212 335 9000. T: 0212 4653151 - 0212 4653547. Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 334 8730. Punctual, reliable, efficient and economic Yenikapı-Bursa-Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Bandırma- takes a fresh, innovative approach to tourism with public transport, the underground trains are an Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Yalova-Yenikapı • Pendik- intriguing ways to see the city. Some of the most especially good way to avoid the rush hour traffic. Yalova-Pendik. popular choices are its photography, cuisine, cycling, sailboat and jewellery workshop tours. Buy tokens from vending machines at stations INTER-CITY SEABUS LINES Where İstanbul readers are entitled to a 10% or use an İstanbul Kart (see buses), which can be Bosphorus Line: Beşiktaş-Kadıköy charged at machines located in each station. discount with the special Z_VDUPO coupon. PRINCES’ISLANDS SEABUS LINES www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr. T: 0212 444 0088. www.istanbultourstudio.com Halaskargazi Cad. 3, Kabataş-Kınalı-Burgaz-Heybeli-Büyükada- K: 6 Harbiye. T: 0533 355 3049 METROLINES Bostancı. Aksaray-Atatürk International Airport • Şişhane to Darüşşafaka, with stops at Taksim, RENT A CAR Osmanbey, Şişli, Gayrettepe, Levent, 4. Levent, BOSPHORUS TOURS Airport Tours Sanayi, İTÜ Ayazağa, Atatürk Oto Sanayi, Half- and full-day Bosphorus and Princes’ Islands www.airport-tours.com. Atatürk Airport Darüşşafaka. Tours. International Terminal, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 465 4550. TRAMLINES İdo Nostalgic Bosphorus Tours Avis Zeytinburnu-Kabataş • Eminönü Dep. 10:35am - 1:35pm • Beşiktaş Dep. • Güngören-Bağcılar • Kadıköy-Moda www.avis.com.tr. T: 444 2847. We let our customers enjoy the beauty of the and customer satisfaction with our unparalleled 10:50am - 1:50pm • Anadolu Kavağı Dep. 3pm - Bosphorus to the fullest. We work with Turkey’s VIP Bosphorus Tour. In short, we love our work. • Taksim-Kabataş Funicular. Budget 5pmT: 444 44 36. elite agencies and companies as well as İstanbul’s We know that the Bosphorus is worth seeing and www.budget.com.tr. T: 444 4722. Taxis Bosphorus Tours By Private Boats five-star hotels. Our portfolio also includes experiencing. The full beauty of the Bosphorus is The bright yellow taxis are available around the Half-day tours on private boats. Historical venues Eurocity Rent A Car ultra-luxury yachts to meet our customers’ needs. hidden in the details, and the details are hidden in clock, and are best hailed on the street. It is best such as the Çırağan Palace and Beylerbeyi Palace www.eurocityrentacar.com. Atatürk Airport Den Den Yachts guarantees the finest conditions Den Den Yachts. to avoid taxis waiting outside major tourist venues may also be included in the programme. International Arrivals Terminal, Yeşilköy. and hotels. Fares should always run on the meter, www.plantours.com. T: 0212 234 7777. T: 0212 603 6266 - 68. with the same tariff now for both day and night. Halil Rıfat Paşa Mah. Ertan Sok. İstanbul Apt. No: 26 / 1-3 Şişli Tel: +90212 251 52 72 Mobile: +90533 447 10 47 Ensure the meter is running as soon as you get in, Swissôtel Interlimousine www.kiraliktekneler.com • [email protected] • [email protected] and refuse to take a journey where the driver tries Owned by the hotel, The İstanbul, extends the www.interlimousine.com.tr. Inter Kat Otoparkı,

68 WHERE İstanbul I July 2014 July 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 69 Central Istanbul Map

T: +90212 251 52 72 www.kiraliktekneler.com [email protected] [email protected] ∆ PRIVATE YACHT RENTAL [ WHERe IN Ista nbul] My Perfect Day

Which of İstanbul's historic and cultural What are your favourite shopping areas sites impress you the most? and designers? Every part of the city creates its own distinct I love shopping in Bağdat Caddesi and feeling. After Topkapı Palace, I love Galata Nişantaşı. I love Derishow and Paşabahçe, Tower and the Pera district, which have a as well as Beymen Club and Mavi’s İstanbul multi-ethnic spirit. t-shirts. As for Turkish designers, I’m fond of Arzu Kaprol. special.

Feza Solaklar (Skal International Istanbul Club President) A graduate of the Boğaziçi University Department of Tourism and Hotel Management, Feza Solaklar has spent over 20 years working in the tourism sector including upper level management. With many years’ experience also in marketing, Do you have any favourite galleries and Solaklar presently works with museums? the tourism civil society I love the exhibitions at İstanbul Modern, organisation, Skal. Sakıp Sabancı Museum, Pera Museum and Salt Galata, and go whenever I have the chance. What about İstanbul's streets – do you Pera Museum Sakıp Sabancı Museum have a favourite area? My favourite neighborhoods are Galata and Asmalımescit; they’re a wonderful blend of old and new. İstanbul is a chaotic city, but it’s got character, and every street has something

Which of İstanbul's Ottoman-style restaurants do you like? Nar Lokanta, above the Armaggan store in Nuruosmaniye, serves wonderful Ottoman dishes, and the terrace provides a lovely atmosphere during summer.

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