VOL. 14 NO. 1

LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION TORONTO’S MOVIE SCENE THE FLAVOR HUNTER JAIPUR’S TURMERIC TRAIL TEXAN CULTURE CRUSH FROM DALLAS TO MARFA BRAZIL’S BEACH NATION THE UNWRITTEN RULES OF RIO DE JANEIRO’S BEACH CULTURE “CLASSICAL MUSIC’S NEW SUPERSTAR” – THE EVENING STANDARD

SHEKUKANNEH-MASON ELGAR LONDON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA SIR SIMON RATTLE

FEATURING THE ELGAR CELLO CONCERTO

THE NEW ALBUM OUT NOW MOMENTS

8 24 Brazil's Beach Nation 44 CONTENTS Mastering the unwritten rules of Rio VOL. 14 NO. 1 de Janeiro's beach culture. 34 Lights, Camera, Action! Exploring Toronto's off-the-beaten-track movie industry heritage. 44 Insider Culture Crush Delving into Texas's cutting-edge art, from Dallas to Marfa. MOODS 54 Riviera Insider Getting to know Monaco's more 72 The Urban Explorer laid-back side. 74 The Smart Traveler 62 The Flavor Hunter 76 The Stylish Vacationer Following the golden turmeric trail 78 The Beach Sunseeker through Jaipur's kitchens. MILESTONES

14 83 High Society MOMENTUM Inside Truman Capote’s iconic masked ball at The Plaza. TRAVEL 84 Star Struck 8 The Local Scoop Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club's glitzy The best new eats in surfers’ haven debut. Canggu, Bali. 86 Fairmont Loves Film 10 Hop Culture Fairmont's long history with Hollywood. Montreal's booming local craft beer 87 Sweet Obsession scene. The day Escoffier invented the peach Melba 11 Design Obsession at The Savoy. A glimpse of Singapore’s fresh design 87 Landmark Celebrations boutique scene. Fairmont hotels around the world celebrate 13 Waterfront Playground milestone anniversaries in style. Inside Dubai’s hottest new off-coast 88 Liberati Love Affair neighborhood. Twain and Fleming at the Hamilton Princess. 14 Where Fire Meets Ice Going from surf to snow in California. 54

TRENDS 62 16 Nurture Nature Conservation initiatives for the eco- conscious traveler. 17 Zero Waste Wave Reducing your environmental footprint while on the go. 44 18 Fermentation Experimentation A taste of the good-for-the-gut ingredients that are taking over cocktail 24 menus. COVER STORY 20 Zen Zone IN EVERY ISSUE BRAZIL'S BEACH NATION Self-care, a trend that is quickly turning into a lifestyle. 4 Contributors Mastering the unwritten rules of Rio de Janeiro's beach culture. 27 Super Sea Foods 6 Welcome Letter The next wave of superfoods boasting 80 Community a nautical flair. PHOTO, GETTY / TRAVEL MOTION. GETTY / TRAVEL PHOTO, GIVE CAFÉ. JAIPUR, / FAIMONT TANJAKDESIGN NADER KHOUBI, ©ISTOCK G., JOSEY PHOTOS, 2 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 3 CONTRIBUTORS FAIRMONT MAGAZINE WELCOME LETTER Vol. 14 No. 1

In addition to writing about art for publications Editor-in-Chief including Architectural Digest and Departures Rooksana Hossenally magazine, Liddy travels the world building art collections for private and corporate clients. Writers Catherine Balston, Liddy Berman, Rowena Carr-Allinson, A New-York-based contemporary art advisor, DEAR READERS, Rozena Crossman, Erin Dahl, Lanie Goodman, Neil Kreeger, Pierre-Charles Morin, she loved jumping right in for her feature. Nicola Leigh Stewart, Niamh Shields, Kate Taylor The only place in the world where I’ve seen a community come together “I have strong ties to Texas and a lifelong love to applaud nature is in Rio de Janeiro. On my first visit, I spent the of the Lone Star State’s boundless natural Copy Editor day at the beach enjoying the long stretches of sand, the vibrancy and beauty and burgeoning arts scene – and not Mona Gainer diversity of the people, and the soulful vibe of the place. As my day forgetting the delicious BBQ.” Subeditor came to a close, I was caught off-guard by a gradually approaching LIDDY BERMAN Aymeric Montois sound that started from far down on the beach, becoming louder as it Art advisor and writer approached. It took me a moment to understand that it was the sound of Art Direction and Design clapping. And another to understand that it was the spectacular sunset A photographer and musician based in Austin, Anaëlle Besson, Aldo Buscalferri, Carine Gouillardon, Dominika Hadelova that was being celebrated; it took my breath away. The sunset with its Texas, Michael spends his time off traveling around Photographers fiery oranges, reds and yellows was a thing of sheer beauty; but it was the deserts and waterways between Texas and Dado Galdieri, Michael Graydon & Nicole Herriott, Michael Muller, the experience of being fully in the moment and honoring something California collecting images and sounds. Joann Pai, Cyrille Robin, Henry Roy I saw every day but didn’t always appreciate fully that touched me deeply. “There’s a special quality of softness or When I think of Rio, that’s the feeling I remember and what I carried back with me on my harshness, depending on the time of day, to the last visit as I toured the construction site of the Fairmont Copacabana, which opened in 2019. light and air in the high desert climates of the I hope our guests will also have the opportunity to experience a moment like that in Rio American Southwest. It yields drastic shadows or elsewhere around the world. and clear contrasts between forms and the While living meaningful and genuine experiences is at the heart of travel, so is the ability negative spaces around them. The beauty Fairmont Hotels & Resorts extreme to maintain or enhance our personal well-being while on the road, be it for business or leisure. in the sparsity of the landscapes and the people www.extreme.fr MICHAEL MULLER fairmont.com That is why we developed Fairmont Fit: our holistic well-being program that ensures each one therein is something I love trying to capture.” 92-98 boulevard Victor Hugo, Photographer and 92110 Clichy-la-Garenne of our hotels offers opportunities for our guests to incorporate movement, dine consciously and Deputy CEO Hotel Operations musician T. +33 1 40 99 80 50 nurture their mind and spirit by making genuine connections with the communities they are visiting. & CEO Luxury Brands F. +33 1 40 99 82 09 And that leads me to introducing you to this new issue of the Fairmont Magazine, connecting Chris Cahill Chief Executive Officer you to authentic experiences in destinations far and near. In this issue, our journalists bring a new Jean Valentin A Toronto-based journalist and film critic for Senior Vice President, perspective on Toronto’s movie heritage, Texas’s diverse art scene, Jaipur’s food culture, Monaco’s a national newspaper, Kate Taylor combined Luxury Brand Marketing Global Sales Director local draws and, of course, Rio de Janeiro’s unique beach culture in our cover feature. As travel her love for her home city and the movie Rick Harvey Lam Julien Roux is all about fresh mindsets, we also look to [email protected] industry for this issue. “Toronto is a city of the future to share with you the latest in neighborhoods and my best urban Saturdays Vice President, Copyright 2020 by extreme, 92-98 boulevard Victor Hugo, 92110 Clichy-la-Garenne. All rights reserved. the way of travel trends, and delve into the involve exploring somebody else’s – Riverdale, Fairmont Brand Management Reproduction in whole or in part without permission history of our most iconic Fairmont hotels, of the publisher is prohibited. Fairmont Magazine is Trinity Bellwoods, Liberty Village – family Sharon Cohen published by Extreme. Points of view expressed do bringing their stories and heritage alive. and dog in tow. As long as there is an off-leash not necessarily represent those of Fairmont Hotels & Resorts. The publisher reserves the right to I’ve always believed that those special park and an indie coffee shop everyone Executive Director, accept or reject all advertising matter. The publisher assumes no responsibility for return or safety of moments and the lingering feelings that stay Fairmont Brand Management is happy.” unsolicited art, photographs or manuscripts. Printed with us long after our trips have ended are Natasha Mohammed in France. All photos courtesy of Fairmont Hotels & KATE TAYLOR Resorts unless otherwise noted. what travel is all about. And while I admit to Journalist and film critic Director, often taking mother nature for granted, once in Fairmont Brand Management Printed in France. a while I see a spectacular sunset and just like STF - ZAC Satolas Green Sébastien Lapray Pusignan that I’m back on that beach in Rio clapping in 69881 Meyzieu Cedex A food and travel photographer based in Paris, honor of her beauty. originally from Canada, Joann loves discovering Senior Vice Presisent Wishing you many moments of discovery different cultures around the world and Group External Communications and memories to take with you as you journey exploring how food connects us. “I first visited Charlotte Thouvard to new places. Jaipur in January and jumped at the chance Director, Luxury Brand to return for this story, as I fell in love with Communications the beauty of the city, the people Rebecca Quinn and, most of all, the food!” Accor 82 rue Henri Farman Panorama from Assistant Project Manager, Clockwise from top: CS 20077 the Rio Sugarloaf Mountain cable car. JOANN PAI Luxury Brand Communications Sharon Cohen 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux, France The red-brick, arty Distillery District Photographer Emeline Sympat accorhotels.com – accorhotels.group / ISTOCK. MIKOLAJN PHOTOS: Vice President, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts in Toronto, Canada. Fairmont Jaipur.

4 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 5 Fairmont Residences, Royal Palm Marrakech MOMENTUM Travel & Trends MOMENTUM Travel & Trends

5:26PM The moment you made Marrakech your home.

Where would you love to live? Around the world, Fairmont Residences represents an exclusive private ownership opportunity—extraordinary apartments, villas and chalets developed, designed and operated to the standards and level of service you have come to expect from our spectacular hotels and resorts. Find your special home today. n this issue of Fairmont Magazine, we have traveled far and wide to bring you the latest and upcoming Gateway to the ultimate in luxury living. I trends in travel and destinations. From Bali’s newest foodie paradise to Montreal’s growing microbrewery YourFairmontHome.com scene, from the latest in sustainable travel initiatives to health-boosting snacks to nibble on, we bring you a fresh angle so that you can start crafting your own perspective-changing trips.

ABU DHABI | CHENGDU | MARRAKECH | MAYAKOBA | MOSCOW | RABAT-SALE | SAN FRANCISCO | TAGHAZOUT | TELLURIDE PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE WRITER (LIDDY BERMAN), MICHAEL GRAYDON AND NIKOLE HERRIOTT (KATE TAYLOR) (KATE HERRIOTT AND NIKOLE BERMAN), MICHAEL GRAYDON OF THE WRITER (LIDDY COURTESY PHOTOS: MALDIVES). © ERIC CUVILLIER (FAIRMONT KRYVOSHEI, NADER KHOURI, © GETTY / IVAN © GETTY IMAGES, CANGGU, SISTA PHOTOS: SEQUI CONSEQUIS MAXIMAIO QUASSIM ILLORE NON CONSE MAIORE SEQUIST, ALIA AUT QUAM SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI 6 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 7 Fairmont Residences are developed, marketed and sold by third-party developers, under a license agreement with Accor. All terms and conditions of the offering are to be confirmed by the developer. MOMENTUM Travel & Trends

CANGGU, BALI OLD MAN’S One of, if not the first, cafe in the area, Old Man’s is still the place to The Local Scoop be for a down-to-earth experience. A seaside hangout with a thatched roof and splashed with cheerful colors, it has an outdoor space Wedged between the sea and rice paddies, to lounge in and often hosts live music. Food ranges from fresh fish off this surfers’ haven may not be a secret for much the grill to burgers and an Indonesian dish or two. oldmans.net longer as a host of new places to eat are firmly putting it on the island’s foodie map.

LA LAGUNA A secluded beachfront rustic-chic bar and restaurant with a magical garden lit by tea candles, La Laguna serves Balinese delights with a touch of European influence. It even has its own gypsy market selling all sorts of weird SENSORIUM and wonderful bric-a-brac. BETELNUT CAFE Opened in 2019, this eatery offers a multi-sensory culinary experience instagram.com/lalagunabali One of the oldest joints in Canggu, THE BACK ROOM AT MASON through its dishes and beautifully neutral interiors. Chef Will Lim’s this breezy beach house bar Hidden at the rear of this restaurant, which specializes Asian-inspired Australian cuisine includes the bulgogi beef burger is a favorite with locals who come in house-cured meats, cheeses, dips and veggies, and brunch ramen. with the whole family to snack on is a spanking new cocktail bar, sure to become sensoriumbali.com burgers and quesadillas, as well as a hipster HQ. The air conditioned, low-lit spot serves Balinese staples like nasi goreng spicy Margaritas, smoked Negronis or creative healthy options – don’t and elderflower spritzes, among other delights.

miss their creamy smoothies – facebook.com/thebackroomatmason in a laid-back setting steps from the beach.

SISTA CANGGU facebook.com/Betelnut-Cafe One of the hottest places in Bali at the moment, Sista is a temple for dumpling lovers. The interiors feature tropical murals while the (kid-friendly) terrace out back overlooks the rice fields. Smoothies, shaved DEUS EX MACHINA ice and chilled imported French TEMPLE OF ENTHUSIASM wines will help cool GIVE CAFE A Bali institution, this motorcycle-themed hangout you down post-meal. A cafe with a cause, GIVE peddles traditional plant-based, is a destination in itself. Offering a mix of local and Western facebook.com/sistacanggu vegan Indonesian fare that tastes just as good as at the cuisine, it boasts happy hours, musical and cinema evenings warungs (local eateries). For meatless burgers and sambals and even tattoos on Tuesdays. Its über-cool store sells heaped with vegetables, this is the place. And even better: surfboards, fashion pieces and art. A place to see and be seen. all proceeds go to charity. deuscustoms.com/cafes/canggu givecafe.org PHOTOS: SENSORIUM_BALI, SISTA CANGGU, LA LAGUNA, GIVE CAFE. LA LAGUNA, CANGGU, SISTA SENSORIUM_BALI, PHOTOS: / EYEEM. ALENA GAMM @GETTY IMAGES- - @HANDY8ANDY, MAC ANDY G, JOEY OLD MANS CANGGU, PHOTOS:

8 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 9 MOMENTUM Travel & Trends

MONTREAL SINGAPORE Hop Culture Design Obsession Throw a stone anywhere in Montreal Entrepreneurs with impeccable taste are setting and chances are you’ll hit a microbrewery. up shop in Singapore, giving it an artsy edge. With more opening all the time, here are our top 5 to help you choose which to visit. he city-state of Singapore is awash with fresh design talent both T local and from abroad. While there are plenty of mono-brand TONG TONG FRIENDSHIP STORE stores, several spaces are now showcasing an array of artists; here’s Traditional Chinese clothing doesn’t have to be just for ith more and more beer lovers developing a passion for craft DIEU DU CIEL the best of them. special occasions. Tong Tong Friendship Store founder Sheau W beer beyond the US, where the trend began, the world has A pioneer of the Montreal beer scene, it produces over Yun has created a line of fun, loud and modern pieces for seen a sudden surge in microbreweries, and Montreal is no exception. 60 beers a year, including its highly prized coffee-infused the whole family in limited runs. In the last year, the city has seen a host of new spots offering house- Péché Mortel. The beer menu is constantly changing and tongtong.sg brewed beer and beers from around the world open their doors, there’s also a bar food offering. giving the local craft beer scene a big boost. dieuduciel.com/en/montreal-brewpub

PIT CARIBOU A local favorite, their beers are brewed in a small fishing town on the Gaspé Peninsula STATE PROPERTY in eastern Quebec, With fans including a place which inspires Michelle Obama, this local their snack menu too. ONLEWO contemporary fine jewelry Try the top-ranking This local brand sells a beautiful array of homeware, fashion accessories outfit is making waves Robust Porter. and gifts, from notebooks and laptop sleeves to mugs and coasters, in fashion. Their elegant pieces, pitcaribou.com/montreal all with distinctive motifs anchored in Singaporean heritage. for men and women, feature onlewo.com beautifully encrusted jewels, including black pearls.

thisisstateproperty.com PAMPLEMOUSSE One of the city’s newest breweries, Pamplemousse serves 20 beers from MARCHÉ ARTISANS around the province, chosen by a team of experienced restaurateurs Unique to the Montreal hotel scene, this sustainability-focused DESIGN ORCHARD following a road trip through Canada. To go with the beer, order downtown pantry at Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth stocks Situated in the heart of Singapore’s retail district, this brand- mouthwatering Caribbean dishes served with pops of pastels. artisanal products from home and abroad by producers new lifestyle destination features 60 local brands such as barpamplemousse.com wanting to make a difference. You can find a diverse range Eden + Elie, a socially conscious jewelry label, and Gnome of craft beers in this most elegant of urban markets. and Bow, who make fable-themed bags and wallets. fairmont.com/queenelizabeth The concrete, timber and glass structure boasts a rooftop garden that doubles as a fashion runway. SAINT-HOUBLON designorchard.sg This 24-tap Little Italy location SIFR AROMATICS is the third outpost of hip brewery A third-generation perfumer, Saint-Houblon. Their beers, served Johari Kazura’s beautifully only in their restaurants, include curated boutique awakens all classic blondes, New England the senses. He sells ready-made IPAs, and stouts. Their food menu concoctions as well as essential includes ingredients from their oils, candles and vintage own farm and they’re expecting perfume bottles. Bespoke the first batch of wine from their fragrances are available upon 2017-planted vines. consultation.

sainthoublon.com CRAMM. WOLFGANG LANOMADEPHOTOGRAPHIE, PHILIPE NADEAU, BROSSEAU, YANNICK ILLUSTRATION: PHOTOS: STORE. FRIENDSHIP TONG ©TONG SHAHZEB NASIR / GETTY, SIFR AROMATICS, PROPERTY, STATE ONLEWO, PHOTOS: sifr.sg

10 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 11 MOMENTUM Travel & Trends

DUBAI Waterfront Playground Dubai’s always got something new in the works. Next up, a new stomping ground for first-time and returning visitors, The Pointe, is all set to make the tip of The Palm a destination in its own right.

Aeriel view of the Fairmont The Palm. Palm Jumeirah island.

11:17AM Sailing, one of many The moment you moved Bao from Ba restaurant food truck. family-friendly activities. to the rhythm of Rio. The construction frenzy in Dubai knows no bounds, For travelers looking to pick up a souvenir or two, there especially with the Expo 2020 taking place here. The area are, of course, a plethora of upscale boutiques offering to have on your list this season is The Pointe. The latest jewelry, perfumes, clothing and crafts, as well as more The bustle of the city in the background, neighborhood to appear in the capital of the emirate, practical outlets such as pharmacies and supermarkets. Rio’s most beautiful people all around it is situated at the tip of The Palm Jumeirah, three miles Got the kids with you? Drop them off at Cheeky Monkeys you—nowhere does beaches quite like out in the sea. play area while you go and take in a film at the dine-in Reel The new waterfront playground has plenty to entertain Cinema. Brazil. And with an unrivaled waterfront visitors and residents alike, including a performance stage And if you are one to try and stay on top of your exercise setting, gourmet dining and interior graced by Enrique Iglesias at the area’s official opening. routine when on vacation, there is a choice of several gyms design that embodies the elegance Foodies will be pleased to learn of the even more diverse in the area. The Yellow Boats offers sightseeing excursions, of the bossa nova era, there’s no hotel choice of dining options adding to Dubai’s top-ranking food water sports and fishing trips. And if you don’t have your quite like the new Fairmont Rio scene, such as the Franco-British restaurant Fitzroy and own vehicle, don’t panic, there are complimentary shuttle de Janeiro Copacabana, the first Rue Royale, the latest offering from two Michelin-starred bus services from various points around The Palm. There are Fairmont in South America. chef Mathieu Viannay. Other not-to-miss bites can be found a host of exciting events (concerts, sports, cultural) planned at Fairmont The Palm’s Ba-Boldly Asian restaurant and for this year, so keep an eye out before you head off. Gateway to your moment in the sun. Seagrill Bistro, which have further upped the area’s dining thepointe.ae/en

fairmont.com/copacabana-rio THE PALM. FAIRMONT PHOTOS: credentials.

12 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 13 MOMENTUM Travel & Trends

CALIFORNIA Where Fire Meets Ice Going from snow to surf in one trip is proving to be popular with a crowd of travelers who want it all.

new travel trend, also known as “climate- A hopping” or “fire and ice” vacations, is seeing travelers experience multiple climatic conditions over a single trip, and often within one region. For instance, California, with its snowy expanses and sunny surf San Francisco's Waterbar enjoys a prime location breaks, is the perfect place to combine your with an exceptional view of the famous Bay Bridge. love for extreme weather opposites. From snowshoeing by Lake Tahoe to enjoying ENJOYING LUNCH an alfresco lunch in San Francisco IN THE BAY AREA and a surf session south of LA, the Golden Some argue that since the rise of Silicon Valley, State’s got it all. the heart and soul of San Francisco have been lost, or at least changed for good. Tech companies have changed the all-inclusiveness of the Bay Area SNOWSHOEING and driven many locals to relocate to Oakland and AROUND LAKE TAHOE beyond. However, what can never be taken away Straddling the border between California is the stunning backdrop and urban landscapes and Nevada, Lake Tahoe in the Sierra Nevada of Fog City. The perfect place to reacclimatize mountain range is the perfect spot to begin your after the chills of Lake Tahoe and before heading climate-hopping vacation. During the ski season to the southern warmth, San Francisco never fails (between November and April), snowshoeing to impress with its majestic Golden Gate Bridge is a fun alternative to whistling down the slopes on and adjoining park, its quaint cable cars, bustling skis or boards. Originally used over 3,000 years Chinatown and attractions such as Alcatraz and ago as a necessary way to negotiate difficult terrain Lombard Street, the most crooked street in the in order to hunt, snowshoes have become hugely world. The city is also home to world-class dining spots such as Saison and Benu, but also has some popular as a way to explore heart-stopping snowy more democratic spots with a view. Waterbar, for landscapes, as they are easy to master and not too strenuous to use. For beginners, Page Meadows, example, a romantic eatery known for its oyster on the lake’s west coast, is the best place bar, practically sits under the Bay Bridge, while veggie institution Greens offers vistas of the bay, to start, with its trail leading through the forest Huntington Beach, a prime spot for sunset surfing and then going from meadow to meadow, revealing Alcatraz and the Marin Headlands. just south of Los Angeles. unforgettable views of the world-famous Twin Peaks and Ward Peak. If you can, plan your trip here in time for the full moon, one of the best times to go for a wander. On the southern shore of the MAKING WAVES NEAR LOS ANGELES lake is Camp Richardson, one of the area’s most Once you’ve gotten used to the moderate climate of San Francisco you’ll be more than ready popular destinations and a great starting point for to make a break for the sun and get in some surf action. With 42 miles of coastline and a rich several snowshoeing circuits, including one that surfing history, Orange County (OC), south of Los Angeles, is the ideal place to sign off on your leads to the picturesque Fallen Leaf Lake. Or head climate-hopping vacation. If you’re a beginner, we suggest heading to Doheny Beach, where up Highway 89 to Emerald Bay and snowshoe the rides are relatively long, or to San Onofre, a great longboarding spot. Another beach suitable down to Vikingsholm, a magnificent Scandinavian- for beginners up to pros is T-Street. For more experienced surfers, some of the best spots can be style castle built in 1929. found at Laguna Beach, home to the world’s longest-running surf competition (just watch out for the exposed rocks at low tide). Huntington Beach, or “Surf City” as it’s also known, is the epicenter of the OC’s surfing culture. Although often crowded, it should definitely be on your to-do list, not only for the waves, but also for the laid-back atmosphere and attractions such as the International Surf Museum, the Surfing Walk of Fame and the statue of legendary surfer Duke Kahanamoku. The mountains around Lake Tahoe offer Once you’ve had your fill of surfing activities, set your bags down at Fairmont Miramar Hotel & breathtaking views over the region. Vegetable Masala Curry and Chocolate Pudding Bungalows, just up the coast in Santa Monica, for a taste of relaxed beachy elegance.

PHOTO: YVETTE CARDOZO. PHOTO: NADER KHOURI. GETTY IMAGES, WATERBAR, PHOTOS: are just two of the creative, veggie-friendly dishes you might find at Greens. 14 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 15 MOMENTUM Travel & Trends Nurture Zero Waste Wave Going one better than recycling, the zero-waste trend is encouraging people Nature to cut down on what they consume and embrace re-using. Wondering how to give back while you’re on vacation? rom books and apps to restaurants, bars and hotels, there is a wave of zero-waste initiatives taking root across the world. Take an interest in all things F Helping to reduce waste across the board, they are also inspiring us to think about how we can travel in a more conscious manner, local, including the flora whether it’s refilling a water bottle rather than buying a new one or ordering coffee to enjoy on the spot instead of to go. and fauna indigenous to your destination and join a conservation initiative. A seed to stalk dish at Wolf restaurant. DRINK MEET The super-cozy yet hip Vesper in Amsterdam At Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise in Alberta, uses bamboo and metal straws and recycles Canada, which has an in-house sustainability hile travelers enjoy discovering off- fruit peels. Even better, barman Julian Bayuni committee and countless environmental W the-grid places, more and more is the founder of Trash the Place, helping local and social initiatives, an Eco-Meet program are becoming aware of the potentially bars create closed-loop cocktails like committee puts together zero-waste events negative impacts of tourism. This increased his gazpacho-based Prancing Pony. throughout the year. The hotel also hosts consciousness has led to an uptick vesperbar.nl conferences and workshops on adopting a more in volunteer travel, benefiting the environment sustainable lifestyle at the office (by organizing while also allowing travelers to engage more paperless meetings, for instance) and at home. deeply with their destinations of choice. fairmont.com/lake-louise There’s no shortage of options for travelers eager to do their bit for the environment and add meaning to their vacation. Discover Aerial view of Fairmont Maldives some of our top picks on land and at sea. Sirru Fen Fushi

Bird aficionados will already have heard through the “Buy Back Bermuda” campaign. due to man-made threats. Fairmont Maldives Sirru EAT of The Audubon Society (audubon.bm). Renowned To help, visitors can sign up to an introduction Fen Fushi has introduced a Coral Propagation Cooking “seed to stalk” with local, sustainable the world over for its work to protect Bermuda’s to bird-watching, attend a lecture or visit Program headed by its own resident marine family farm food is what chef Marcel Vigneron bird life, the volunteer-led nonprofit restores the reserves. biologist. Healthy coral fragments from at Wolf in Los Angeles prefers. Try the charred wetlands and buys land to create nature reserves. Coral reefs are one of the most important surrounding reefs are attached to coral carrots with avocado, hazelnut, broccoli, To date, it owns 16 reserves, including several ecosystems in the world, supporting around 25% frames and placed in a coral nursery, situated and furikake. acquired jointly with the Bermuda National Trust of all marine life. Yet coral is slowly disappearing within the resort’s six-mile lagoon. Guests can The gazpacho-based cocktail, wolfdiningla.com actively take part in the program by joining Prancing Pony. the coral plantation activities during their stay. The hotel’s marine biologist also conducts weekly ocean discovery orientations to inspire guests DOWNLOAD to share the hotel’s passion for local environmental Swedish outfit Karma has come up with READ and sustainability initiatives. an ingenious app to help rescue unwanted Refuse, reduce, reuse, recycle and rot is her On land, travelers can do their bit for the food from eateries in London (Aquavit, Detox war cry. Zero-waste guru Bea Johnson offers critters of Arizona while in the Grand Canyon Kitchen), Paris and around Sweden, with a practical, step-by-step guide with tools and state. The nonprofit, volunteer-run Southwest individuals buying surplus produce at half price tips to reduce your footprint in her book "Zero Wildlife Conservation Center (SWCC, and picking it up themselves. Zero Waste App Waste Home: The Ultimate Guide to Simplifying southwestwildlife.org) has been rescuing and is another tool, which helps zero-wasters find Your Life." Also available are "101 Ways to Go rehabilitating native wild animals that are injured, package-free stores, second-hand shops Zero Waste," by Kathryn Kellogg, who can fit two and activities that don’t create trash. years’ worth of trash into a 16-ounce mason jar, View over the lake from orphaned, lost or have become homeless due Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. and "A Zero Waste Life: In Thirty Days," by Anita to their natural habitat disappearing since 1994. karma.life, zerowasteapp.io One of the SWCC’s initiatives is helping the Vandyke, who shows how you can achieve zero waste in small steps. The Southwest Wildlife Conservation Center is rescuing endangered Mexican grey wolf. You can attend and rehabilitating species that have disappeared from the Grand Canyon. an event, make an appointment for a guided tour, or donate to the cause to help. PHOTOS: (C) ERIC CUVILLIER (FAIRMONT MALDIVES), FRANK BACH / POND 5. BACH FRANK MALDIVES), ERIC CUVILLIER (FAIRMONT (C) PHOTOS: COSTA. DAVID LAKE LOUISE, CHATEAU FAIRMONT VESPERBAR, - CTKTIGER1018, IMAGES PHOTOS:@GETTY

16 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 17 MOMENTUM Travel & Trends Fermentation 2 4 Experimentation Whether your thing is kombucha tea, tepache 6 or you prefer a dose of pickle juice for that extra kick, fermented cocktails are the biggest trend to hit the bar scene this year.

he good news is that they can actually be good for you. Not only T do they save you from that next-day headache, but they boost your immune system and curb sugar cravings. Here are six of our favorite concoctions to try in some of the world’s most exciting cites. 1 3 5

1. FAIRMONT THE QUEEN 2. BACCANO, ROME: 3. GREY TIGER, 4. MISTER PARADISE, 5. BAR NESO 2, PARIS: 6. FUGLEN, TOKYO: ELIZABETH, MONTREAL: THE HUBBLE TORONTO: MISTY DAY NEW YORK: THE SOUR PARIS SYNDROME THE TEPACHE PARTY LOBSTER Montreal has become something of a cocktail If you like a good story with your cocktail, try Rich, fruity and fizzy, the Misty Day ingredients list Pop into a booth at this cozy, intimate drinking hole On the heels of the success of his inventive Oslo meets Paris in Tokyo in this blend of gin hotspot, and bars are riding the rising fermentation Baccano, steps from the Trevi fountain. Here, reads like a magic spell: Knob Creek rye, Cocchi in the East Village and order the Party Lobster: restaurant Neso, Guillaume Sanchez and crème de cassis, but with sake replacing wave. What better place to taste this all-the-rage Mario Farulla has gone all the way, giving a romantic Rosa, orgeat, lemonberry shrub, lemon, cherry, a quirky mix of tequila, watermelon, mezcal, recently opened his newest address: Neso 2. vermouth. Although the iconic beverage brewed trend than at Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth's backstory to each of his creations. The Hubble aquafaba, Peychaud’s Bitters and, of course, rose Campari, lime, fermented habanero and garlic. The experimental tapas-cocktails spot is an ode from fermented rice isn’t usually found in cocktails, Nacarat Bar? Ask for the Tepache, a classic is a mix of Grey Goose, distilled orgeat, seedlip kombucha. The venue describes itself as an artist- Spicy and slinky, it tastes better than it sounds. to quality French products and Sanchez’s creative it works harmoniously in this one. Taking it further, Mexican libation made of fermented pineapple garden, “3d lime” (shrub, clarified and fermented) run cocktail bar for new romantics. Cozy, intimate misterparadisenyc.com processes—often focused on fermentation. Take the cassis is infused with oolong tea, and blended juice, cloves and tamarind. Low-fuss and low- and meringue. As for its story, it’s set in September and screen-free, it’s just the place to kick back the Sour, for example. It’s a masterful combination with a young sake from Nagano prefecture. alcohol, the Tepache is a spicy nod to Montreal’s 1927, when an American tourist asks for a drink and peruse the grimoire of cocktails on offer. of raspberry brandy, saffron absinthe, rhubarb, Another surprise in this Scandi-inspired outpost cosmopolitan identity. whose color reminds them of the deep hues Even better, co-owner Ryan Ringer offers cocktail oyster juice and pineau vinegar. north of Shibuya. of the universe. classes for wannabe wizards. www.fairmont.fr/queen-elizabeth-montreal neso.paris fuglen.com baccanoroma.com greytiger.ca PHOTOS: ©FAIRMONT THE QUEEN ELIZABETH, BACCANO ROMA, @GETTY IMAGES - ASEPHKHAN. ROMA, @GETTY IMAGES BACCANO THE QUEEN ELIZABETH, ©FAIRMONT PHOTOS: © NESO 2 PARIS. FUGLEN TOKYO, ALL GOOD NYC, PHOTOS:

18 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 19 MOMENTUM Travel & Trends In The Zen Zone Super Sea The restrictive health fads of the past are being traded for more holistic, acceptance-based alternatives, and they’re blissfully encompassed under one feel-good moniker: self-care. Foods The new superfoods plucked from the sea that contribute to scroll through the #selfcare hashtag on Instagram, which boasts 23M posts and counting, paints an appealing picture: vibrant A vegan lattes, can-do mindfulness quotes, and me-time checklists—all intended, quite simply, to make us feel good. The fact is, boosting and diversifying the wide-ranging benefits of self-care on our health are leading more people to embrace this well-rounded approach to living their lives. our eating habits. Why are we seeing this boom, why now? The answer: Advances in technology and our understanding of health, coupled with an uncertain sociological context. Self-care is a product of its time. It marks our increased awareness of how to better care for ourselves, with emotional and mental health going hand-in-hand with physical wellbeing. This trend has now become a lifestyle in its own right, and it’s playing out in every facet of our lives, from the technology we use, to the products we buy, to the spaces we frequent. eafood snacks are a hot topic right now, S because they are high in nutrients, low on carbs and sodium, and are saturated fat-free. PLUGGED IN BREATHING SPACE What’s more, you no longer have to make Much like its millennial devotees, self-care is digital-native. Advances Since the self-care trend has caught on with crowds craving space a special trip to a health food store to stock have brought previously niche practices to the masses with digital guided and time, both physical and emotional, new spots dedicated to the wellness up; more and more restaurants, cafes and meditation, free YouTube pilates sessions, and online booking platforms cause are cropping up around the world. One such space is New York’s shops are starting to offer them as part for in-home beauty treatments. Wearables such as the Apple Watch now The Well, a tranquil oasis perched in lower Manhattan. Opened in Fall 2019, the of meals or in handy snack-size portions go far beyond counting steps and bring clinical-level data to people’s wrists. one-of-a-kind, 18,000-square-foot club is a full-service wellness ecosystem for popping in your hand luggage when And let’s not forget the troves of wellness apps that help you live mindfully and community. Membership includes a spa with a steam room and sauna, you’re on the road. in a few taps. In 2018, self-care was Apple’s App Trend of the Year, with a restaurant serving organic food, a reflexology lounge, a private gym, apps like Calm, 10% Happier, and weekly classes, and more. For Water lily seeds are arguably one of the hottest Headspace ranking among the most New Yorkers, gone are the days of new superfood trends at the moment. Similar to downloaded. On the other hand, this running around trying to connect popcorn, they are calorie-, saturated fat- and increased awareness has also put our the dots between that Kundalini gluten-free and full of nutrients and fiber. They’ve relationships with technology into yoga class, doctor’s appointment, been a traditional treat in India for centuries, and question and brought monitoring and massage. since Whole Foods named them as a food trend features like Apple Screen Time and Given the increased focus on to watch, the world is sitting up and taking notice. Google Digital Wellbeing, reminding wellness in our day-to-day lives, While it may not yet have the same popularity, us to use our trackers and tools it’s no surprise this preference kelp jerky is another on-the-go goody gaining within reason. has transcended into our travel. momentum. Akua is one of the main producers, In Turkey, for example, Fairmont using ocean-farmed Maine kelp in a range Quasar Istanbul offers a Mindful of flavors including sea salt and sesame, turmeric WELLNESS IN A BOX Moments Program, and Fairmont and coconut and rosemary maple and BBQ, for Self-care’s rise in popularity has also recently launched a snack low in sugar and high in protein and taste. coincides with increasingly busy a new, global Fairmont Fit. The If you’re not quite ready to try the jerky version, you lifestyles and a growing demand for program includes various initiatives can try kelp in restaurants and cafes. For example, instant and comprehensive solutions. rooted in local destinations such the Q at the Empress at Fairmont Empress Customized vitamins, adaptogen as urban green spaces, immersive in Victoria, Canada, regularly includes kelp dishes tonics, sustainable skincare… People spa experiences, as well as a fully such as sea kelp-cured scallops. Wakame seaweed salad with sesame and green tea. are becoming increasingly tuned in to redesigned culinary offer focusing And kelp noodles have even been dubbed what they put in and on their bodies. on organic and local food. the next "wonder food." Already widespread Gallinée for example, harnesses Self-care is a welcomed trend in Southeast Asian cuisines, these satisfyingly translucent noodles are Otherwise topping the charts, butter fans will be happy to know that the power of now-hyped good that likely won’t take its exit delightfully chewy and low in carbs and calories. Free from starch and wheat, butter prodigy Jean-Yves Bordier has been making seaweed butter since bacteria to care for your skin, hair, anytime soon. A 2015 study by they are made from water, sodium alginate and steamed kelp extract. Next 1986. Michelin-starred restaurants in France swear by it for its intense and microbiome more holistically. Pew Research Center found that to restaurants all over Japan and Korea, this type of noodle is becoming combination of iodine and dairy. Perfect to use with seafood dishes, Scott Linde, founder of Sun Potion more millennials reported making more popular in North America; like in New York, where kelp noodles are it also works with red meat and is a great addition to a slice of fresh bread. Transformational Foods, is applying the same nature-knows-best theory to personal improvement commitments than any generation before them, being served at noodle restaurants like High Vibe and vegan chef Chloe Seaweed chips provide yet another option for a quick snack. With the our diets. Linde specializes in adaptogens and tonic herbs, which are non- and spent twice as much money on self-care too. So you can’t help but Coscarelli’s eatbychloe, which also has various locations across the USA, same satisfying crunch as potato chips, they have far fewer calories and toxic plants often used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine and believed to wonder: If self-care is a product of its time, what will be the next level of Canada and Europe. Coscarelli’s take on the new trend includes a cashew zero cholesterol or transformed fats. What’s more, they’re gluten-free,

complement the body’s natural processes. wellness enlightenment? Maybe self-realization. MERTON. : TOM PHOTO / GETTY. WESTEND61 PHOTO: sauce and almond parm. non-GMO and 100% vegan – finally, a guilt-free chip.

20 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 21 MOMENTS Places & Perspectives

I wish to go to Hawaii William, 5 leukemia

Wishes can’t wait. A wish can inspire hope, renew joy and give a child with a critical illness a piece of their childhood back. More wishes are waiting to be granted – and these wishes need you.

ravel has different meanings for different people, whether its discovering far-flung destinations for the first time or seeing overlooked corners closer to home through fresh eyes, but is always an opportunity Donate now and help kids like William make their wish a reality. T to change mindsets and live unforgettable moments. We’ve asked a selection of expert travel journalists WISH.ORG/FAIRMONT to share their unique perspectives on a range of destinations, from a glimpse into the unspoken rules of beach life in Rio, to a road trip through Texas’s art culture, and immersing us in Monaco, Jaipur,

PHOTOS: MICHAEL GRAYDON AND NIKOLE HERRIOTT (TORONTO), MICHAEL MULLER (TEXAS), HENRY ROY (MONACO), JOANN PAI (JAIPUR). PAI JOANN (MONACO), ROY HENRY (TEXAS), MICHAEL MULLER (TORONTO), HERRIOTT AND NIKOLE MICHAEL GRAYDON PHOTOS: and Toronto along the way.

Fairmont Magazine 23 MOMENTS Places & Perspectives The view of the iconic Guanabara Bay and Christ the Redeemer from the back, two major landmarks of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. BRAZIL'S BEACH NATION “For me, Rio de Janeiro’s singular beach culture provides the foundation of a city like no other in the world.” By Catherine Balston

RIO DE JANEIRO

ere she comes, she’s a Carioca. Just Close to a statue of Tom Jobim – the city’s see the way she walks… What do best-loved artists are immortalized in bronze H I see when I look deep in her eyes? all along the beachfront – an afternoon under “ I can see the sea, the forgotten road, the a parasol on Ipanema Beach was my first lesson caressing skies.” So goes musician Tom in the unwritten code of Rio’s beach etiquette. Jobim’s famed song “Ela é Carioca” (“She's I learned that small is beautiful when it comes a Carioca” – a Rio native), in homage to a lesser- to beachwear. And that in fact, bikinis are known beauty than his chart-topping “Girl from rarely proportional in size to the body they Ipanema.” The bossa nova star was just one adorn. Coming from a climate where we rarely in a long line of musicians, artists, writers and see each other’s ankles, that took some getting poets inspired by the city’s curves, its soaring used to, but it’s a carefree attitude I now wholly mountains cloaked in tropical forest, its golden embrace. I also learned that hiring a beach sands, its people and the constant crash and ebb chair and umbrella is the done thing, and that of waves breaking on its shores. women can stretch out on their cangas (sarongs) For all the lure of the city’s sights, from to sunbathe but that men prefer to sit or stand. mountain views to colonial gems and modernist And when the sun finally sets on a perfect icons, Rio de Janeiro can only really be fully afternoon, cariocas often break into a round understood and appreciated while people of applause – a reminder that they will never Catherine Balston spends most watching on the beach, your toes in the sand tire of the simple pleasures. of the year in Brazil, where over with a caipirinha in hand. And that’s the first That afternoon on Ipanema was to be the 4,000 miles of coastline make for thing I did when I moved from London to Brazil, first of many over the years, when the soporific a lifetime’s worth of exploring. 10 years ago, in search of challenge, adventure effects of the waves and the heat would send me Though she's just as happy behind a windbreak on the West Coast and sunshine. to sleep, catching up from late nights spent either of Ireland as in tropical climes. Life in Rio revolves around its beaches. in Lapa’s bars or lying awake while street parties She writes about food, travel Friends gather, children play, live music strikes simmered outside my tiny bedsit on Ipanema’s and culture for various magazines up and some of the biggest sport and music Rua Farme de Amoedo. The occasional drama and is the author of the Rio de events are hosted right here on the sand for all to would unfold on the beach. Ipanema means Janeiro Wallpaper* City Guide. enjoy. And if that all sounds too hectic, there are “dangerous waters” in native Tupi-Guarani a further 25 miles of quieter beaches to explore, and it was a spectacle to see a rescue operation west beyond Leblon. However, for a taste of unfold, with a helicopter scooping a swimmer true Carioca spirit, I like to occasionally dip (who had ignored the red flag) out of the water back into the livelier beach life of Copacabana in a giant net before dumping him on the sand or Ipanema. like a fisherman’s catch. PHOTO: YURI DE MESQUITA BAR / ISTOCK. BAR YURI DE MESQUITA PHOTO: SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI

24 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 25 “A constant stream of vendors weaves its way through the sunbathers, hauling everything from tiny coal stoves to biscoito globo and barrels of iced tea.”

This page: In Rio de Janeiro, locals live with their toes in the sand from dusk till dawn, especially on weekends when whole families tend to spend the day at their favorite beach. Opposite page: Sunset in Rio de Janeiro is a magical moment in the city that Cariocas (locals) love to watch and enjoy even while playing ball on the beach

Rio’s beaches are the center of the city’s for its sunset view out on the rocks), posto eight Larissa and Talita knock a Swiss pair out social life, where neighbors stop to chat while has an LBGTQ+ crowd, postos nine and 10 to go through to the semi-finals, the Carioca walking their dogs and friends gather to spend are famed for their beautiful people while posto supporters unashamedly booing every point the afternoon together. Meet-ups are usually 12 is quieter and family-friendly. But as with lost to the opposition. arranged with reference to the lifeguard any fashion, these can change with the season. Food and drink are also a huge part of towers – postos – which are numbered and For me, the beach is all about relaxing and Rio beach life, and there’s no need for visitors mark each mile along the beach. The postos the best people watching in the world. Once to bring either with them. The enterprising start with number one in Leme, underneath I’ve sunk back into that deck chair, even a dip folks who rent out deck chairs and parasols the Sugarloaf, and continue to Copacabana, in the sea can seem a bit too much like hard will usually provide cold beers, water and fruity around the headland to Arpoador, Ipanema work. I’m the exception to the rule, though. caipirinhas, too. A constant stream of vendors and finally Leblon. The best way to take them Rio’s beaches are alive with activity, weaves its way through the sunbathers, hauling all in is on wheels; bike hire schemes are now especially on weekends. Apart from the die-hard everything from tiny coal stoves (for grilling everywhere, with cycle lanes running all the sunbathers laid out on their cangas, locals love cheese on sticks) to biscoito globo (puffy tapioca way from Marina da Glória in Guanabara Bay to talk, swim, play Keepie Uppie or frescobol chips) and barrels of iced tea. You don’t need to Leblon. On Sundays, half of the seafront (a bat and ball game), work out or do yoga to move from your deck chair to graze your highway is closed to traffic and taken over by in open-air gyms and work up a sweat over way through an afternoon. walkers, joggers and Lycra-clad locals on wheels beach volleyball and the impossible futevôlei – Lining the beach on the boardwalk of all kinds. a version of volleyball where players can’t touch are more than 300 kiosks that are another In a city where rich and poor look at the ball with their hands. essential part of the eating and drinking culture. each other from opposite sides of high fences, Beach volleyball is almost a religion What used to be simple huts with plastic chairs the beaches are refreshingly egalitarian. That in Rio, and unsurprisingly was the hottest ticket that served cold beers and green coconuts are said, the various Carioca tribes tend to stake during the Rio 2016 Olympics. From the top now becoming gourmet destinations, some a claim on particular stretches of beach, marked seats of the stadium erected on Copacabana akin to alfresco restaurants and others opting by postos; posto six is where standup paddlers Beach, crowds could look down on the action for a beach lounge vibe, with DJs and live music.

gather, posto seven is for the surfers (and a must or out over the Atlantic. I saw Brazilian stars / EYEEM. CAPRAI DORA PHOTO: SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI / GETTY IMAGES. ALEXANDER SPATARI PHOTO: SEQUI CONSEQUIS MAXIMAIO QUASSIM ILLORE NON CONSE MAIORE SEQUIST, ALIA AUT QUAM SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO CONSEQUIS QUASSIM SEQUI 26 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 27 This all happened in the past decade or so, thanks to an investment in the kiosks’ infrastructure, building underground bathrooms and kitchens that have allowed for more ambitious offerings. You can now sit and eat fresh local fish – in various global guises from sushi to ceviche and poke – with a glass of chilled white wine. Or pair a hamburger with a Brazilian craft beer. In short, sit down and enjoy a delicious meal with the best sea view in the city. It may take a while to convince the older generation of locals that the beach is a place to sit down for a proper meal, but the young are jumping on the trend, as are the city’s hottest chefs, who are expanding their restaurant empires to these seafront outposts. Some of the best local seafood can be found out of town on the quieter beaches that extend for 25 miles west beyond Leblon. In fact, my Sunday mornings often revolve around an expedition to have lunch at Bira in Guaratiba, on the city’s western frontier. Getting there before noon is the only way to bag a table on the large wooden terrace that juts out into the forest, overlooking an estuary. A steaming clay pot of seafood moqueca (stew) is always worth the journey and is best followed by a siesta on the golden sands of nearby Prainha or Grumari beaches, in the early afternoon sun. These, and other lesser-known surf beaches nearby, can feel like a wilderness by comparison to Copacabana, especially during the week. Surrounded by protected forests, they’re a nature-lover’s paradise, waiting to be explored. And there’s just no better challenge than finding the Rio de Janeiro beach that’s just right for you.

“And when the sun finally sets on a perfect afternoon, Cariocas often break into a round of applause – a reminder that Top: On the beach, various food stands they will never tire of the and huts offer some of the city's best local favorites like grilled octopus and simple pleasures.” vegetables. Left: As well as food, you can find a number of cocktail and fresh juice stands to quench your thirst. Right: One of the locals' top choices to Locals enjoying a refreshing coconut by the beach cool off is fresh coconut water sipped to take the edge off the prickly summer heat. right from the shell.

28 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 29 28 Moments Fairmont Magazine This page, on top: The view from Fairmont Rio de Janeiro Copacabana. Left: The famous wave-patterned sidewalk of Copacabana. Right: View of the Selaron stairs. Opposite page: The best surf spots in Rio include the beaches closer to the fort on Ipanema and beaches found westwards like oatinga and Macumbo Curvo. PHOTO. ILDO FRAZAO / ISTOCK , PINTAI SUCHACHAISRI / MOMENT OPEN / GETTY, IMAGES. OPEN / GETTY, / MOMENT SUCHACHAISRI , PINTAI / ISTOCK ILDO FRAZAO PHOTO.

30 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 31 Moments Fairmont Magazine 31 Travel Notebook

Terrace Time Guests are spoiled for choice when it comes to exploring the best of Copacabana's beaches, restaurants and boutiques on foot. But the temptation to never leave the hotel will be there, with stunning views from the elegant rooms and its two pools (morning and afternoon), so that you can enjoy the sun all day long.

BEST RIO BEACH KIOSKS LUNCH WITH A VIEW BEACH-INSPIRED STYLE

Dotting the seafront from Copacabana The places with lots of local flavor Brazilian beach culture comes with to Leblon, beach kiosks are low-key to stop at for a bite to eat or a drink. its own fashion codes. Get a crash snack joints that range from run- course on this elegant style scene with of-the-mill to gourmet gems. Bira this selection of iconic local brands. An hour’s drive west of Leblon, Bira serves Aconchego Carioca the freshest seafood with views out over Espaço Havaianas Chef Kátia Barbosa is best known for serving an estuary and the vast sand spit of Restinga The brand-new flagship store for the world’s classic Brazilian bar food with a creative twist. da Marambaia. restaurantedobira.com.br best-known flip flops takes a colorful brand Carioca Dining This kiosk is the latest addition to her growing experience to a whole new level. Offering churrasco-inspired food smoked Rio restaurant empire. Avenida Atlântica (near Bar Urca Rua Garcia d’Avila 124, Ipanema. in a charcoal oven and breathtaking ocean Posto 2), Copacabana. Christ the Redeemer and boats moored views, this is the place to wind down Lenny Niemeyer in the bay are the backdrop to a seafood in the evening. Azur lunch at this hidden gem in Urca. barurca.com.br Get this season’s beach look from Rio’s most Fairmont Rio de Janeiro Oysters and fish tartare are highlights on famous swimwear designer. There are half the menu at this upscale kiosk by Pedro Artagão, Fogo de Chão a dozen boutiques and an outlet store in the city. Copacabana the chef behind the excellent Botafogo bistro Tuck into a steak at this churrascaría lennyniemeyer.com.br Irajá Gastro. Avenida Delfim Moreira (near (steakhouse) with stunning views of Sugarloaf There couldn’t be a more fitting location for Brazil’s first Fairmont hotel, which opened Posto 11), Leblon. Mountain. Avenida Repórter Nestor Moreira, Salinas its doors in 2019 right on the iconic Copacabana beach strip in Rio. Standing opposite Botafogo. A laid-back look for the beach can be an early 20th century fortress, and with a privileged view back along the full 2.5-mile Oakberry assembled at Salinas, with lines for men, length of Copacabana’s golden sands, the hotel is also just a stone’s throw from Arpoador, Bowls of the purple “superfood” açaí berry Confeitaria Colombo women and children. m.salinas-rio.com.br the headland where a laid back surf crowd gathers for sunset every day, creating a real are served with a choice of fruits, nuts and other Sit in the shade of trees outside the fortress Carioca connection. toppings. Avenida Vieira Souto (near Posto 9), at the end of Copacabana, looking back ViX Paula Hermanny Ipanema. over the long, sweeping curve of the beach. Bold prints and accessories in gold, stone, Copacabana boardwalk: Did you know? Design confeitariacolombo.com.br leather and rope lend an exclusive look The black-and-white tiles along the boardwalk Renowned architect Patricia Anastassiadis to the beachwear collection by this young of Copacabana beach were imported from Portugal, is the talent behind the hotel’s interior, including designer. vixbrasil.com/sobre-a-marca and are inspired by Lisbon’s Praça do Rossio. tributes to the city in the architectural details The original 1907 boardwalk design had the waves set and decor, with stones and wood in abundance. perpendicular to the sea, but an ambitious landscaping An arbiter of taste, Anastassiadis has brought project in the 1970s reset them parallel to the beach. both glamor and culture to the hotel’s social and The Ipanema and Leblon boardwalk has its own black- leisure spaces, with artworks and furniture by and white tile pattern, with round-edged squares, the best of Brazil’s mid-century while the Barra da Tijuca boardwalk is inlaid with fish. and contemporary designers. PHOTOS: PAULO AMORIM / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES, ALEXANDER SPATARI / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES, VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO. VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO. VICTOR / GETTY IMAGES, / MOMENT ALEXANDER SPATARI / GETTY IMAGES, / MOMENT AMORIM PAULO PHOTOS: / GETTY IMAGES. / MOMENT MARCIA ROSA DINING), TIME, DESIGN), © DHANI BORGES (CARIOCA TERRACE FIALDINI (HOTEL, © ROMULO PHOTOS:

32 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 33 MOMENTS Places & Perspectives LIGHTS, CAMERA ACTION! “From Toronto’s underground filming locations to its sites sought after by directors across the globe, I decided to explore the lesser-known side of this quiet Hollywood rival that is also my home.”

By Kate Taylor – Photos Michael Graydon and Nikole Herriott

TORONTO

he lower platform at Toronto’s Bay Toronto is Canada’s financial center, a city subway station is both thunderously whose serious work ethic is diluted by a lively T noisy and eerily quiet. The Bloor train cultural scene; it is experienced by its citizens rumbles overhead, shaking the ceiling at regular as a series of neighborhoods, from bustling intervals, but down here there are neither multicultural shopping districts to leafy streets trains nor passengers, just patched concrete lined with old brick houses and the new clusters floors and grimy white tiles. Bay Lower, as the of condo towers continually rising downtown. Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) calls it, Yet when it comes to its many on-screen roles, was abandoned after six months of use in 1966, this place that prides itself on its multiculturalism victim of a failed routing experiment. and respect for diversity is mainly invisible. Getting a tour with a TTC official, That truth may annoy Torontonians, but I’m fulfilling a long-held ambition of many it also creates urban lore about what places a Torontonian, to see what lies beneath starred in what movies or shows. There Kate Taylor has travel in her DNA. that locked door on the main Bay platform. is something irresistible to Toronto nerds about Born in France to a Canadian This is Toronto’s “secret subway,” an oddly seeing the futuristic shape of City Hall – the diplomatic family, she spent her empty place that is something of an urban distinctive twin towers and clam-shell council childhood in Europe and Ottawa. legend. Aside from delighting transit enthusiasts, chamber were designed by the Finnish architect Now settled in Toronto, she is a however, it serves another role: it plays the Viljo Revell in 1965 – making a cameo on “Star critic and columnist for the Globe underground in movies and TV shows. You saw Trek: The Next Generation” or exploding in and Mail newspaper, where she it on the first season of “The Handmaid’s Tale;” a cloud of vapor in the 2004 movie “Resident writes about visual arts, film it was the subway in “Suicide Squad.” The TTC Evil Apocalypse.” and cultural policy. She is also routinely rents it out to movie companies who Torontonians welcome this odd celebrity the author of several novels. come to Toronto scouting weird and wonderful with quiet amusement: At the Lakeview The first, “Mme Proust and the locations as part of the city’s thriving film Restaurant on Dundas Street, there is always Kosher Kitchen,” features a scene and TV production business. key lime pie on the menu since the 2018 Oscar- set on the opening day of Toronto’s Yonge Street subway. Bay Lower has stood in for the Philadelphia winning “The Shape of Water” featured the And her most recent, “Serial subway and the London Underground, but dessert in scenes shot in the vintage diner. Monogamy,” includes a description mainly it plays New York; there is even a dusty As a critic, I’m more familiar with Hollywood’s of the Scarborough Bluffs. old cupboard filled with Manhattan subway final product, but I’m also intrigued by signage left behind by film crews. “Most people the relationship between the movie industry come here not to shoot Toronto as Toronto and urban life, the way Toronto locations both but as something else,” film location manager iconic and unknown show up on our screens.

John Rakich says. “We do a lot of New York SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI and Chicago; it’s a neutral Northeastern look.” A vintage Candies casino slot machine hiding 34 Fairmont Magazine in the shadows of the Wiseacre Props department at Cinespace Fairmont Studios Magazine in Toronto. 35 One of my favorite undervalued architectural sites in the city is the R.C. Harris Water Treatment Plant, located at the far My exploration of film sites is coinciding eastern end of the waterfront just beyond the with a boom in production in Toronto, fashionable Beaches neighborhood, with its as the demand for content from streaming welcoming boardwalk and busy shopping strip. services fuels the industry. The city’s film office “The Palace of Purification,” the plant is a vast reports that it issued more than 3,000 permits Art Deco complex that still filters almost a third for 1,400 projects in 2018; that year saw of the city’s water – and provides a nice excuse CDN $1.2 billion in film and TV production, for a wander along the Lake Ontario shore. almost matching a record set in 2016. Much Since security precautions were tightened after of the action is shot indoors on sound stages 9/11, neither the public nor film crews are and the city’s studios are operating near allowed inside its echoing hallways, which played capacity. In fact, expansions at Pinewood a mental hospital in the 1994 horror movie Studios and Cinespace are slated to add another “In the Mouth of Madness.” But productions 500,000 square feet by 2021. still shoot the exterior, which can double The city began attracting US film for a penitentiary any day. and television shoots in the 1990s when the Meanwhile, the cavernous Hearn Generating combination of the free-trade pact, a low Station, an abandoned power plant in the Canadian dollar and tax credits for both Port Lands, is the go-to for any production domestic and foreign producers made it looking for a classic smokestack. Don’t bother an increasingly inviting jurisdiction for visiting: The place is hidden behind fencing Hollywood. Twenty-five years later, Toronto’s on a dusty road in this central industrial economy has come to depend on this business area that Toronto is still discussing how to and the city can now boast experienced crews, redevelop. Instead, the already gentrified studios located near downtown and a great Distillery District is closer to downtown variety of locations. and well-known as a place to shop, eat “The city is attractive visually because we are and explore; the former booze factory a city of neighborhoods,” says Magali Simard, is stuffed with intriguing industrial leftovers Toronto’s film development officer. “From Little like freight elevators, pumps and conveyors. India to Leslieville, a cool hipster neighborhood, The movies “Chicago” and “Cinderella to the downtown core to Chinatown – Man” relied on its period look, while both in a matter of minutes you can have a whole tourists and film crews can take a break different look.” The Toronto District School at Balzac’s for coffee or the Mill Street Board even makes 10 schools available for brew pub for something stronger. filming throughout the year in a city that has a reputation for always saying yes – even if that means closing a highway. Torontonians “This is Toronto's ‘secret debate whether the Gardiner Expressway, an aging elevated highway that cuts downtown subway’ an oddly empty off from the waterfront, should be torn down, place that is something but it remains a major artery. Nonetheless, it was briefly closed for “Shazam!” – the climax of an urban legend.. You of the new superhero comedy features a bus saw it on the first season plunging over the side of the expressway. of “The Handmaid's Tale”; it was the subway in “Suicide Squad.”

Top: The Art Deco R.C. Harris Water Treatment Plant. Its echoing hallways played a mental hospital in the 1994 horror movie “In the Mouth of Madness.” Today, productions aren’t authorized to shoot inside, Top: Toronto’s secret subway station, which but the exterior readily doubles as a penitentiary. has starred in many movies Right: The red-brick, arty Distillery District is a prime and series, includes “The Handmaid's Tale.” spot for movie shoots and featured in “Chicago” Right: The vintage booths and “Cinderella Man.” at the Lakeview Restaurant.

36 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 37 Moments New Perspectives “I’m more familiar with Hollywood’s final product, but I’m also intrigued by the relationship between the movie industry and urban life, the way Toronto locations both iconic and unknown show up on our screens.”

While film grows, finance remains Toronto’s first industry; to Canadians, Bay Street, home to the Toronto Stock Exchange and the major banks, is the northern equivalent of Wall Street. Its glass towers and corporate lobbies are also popular with film crews: The Financial District stars in the legal drama “Suits” and played New York in “Molly’s Game”. For the look of more historic money, crews often head uptown to Casa Loma, the faux castle at the top of the Spadina hill, but probably the Top left: A key lime most filmed location in the city is the Fairmont pie, at the Lakeview Royal York hotel. The Library Bar gets decked Restaurant in Toronto, out as Jezebel’s brothel in “The Handmaid’s which featured in the dessert scenes of the Tale” and in “Molly’s Game,” Molly held her 2018 Oscar-winning high-stakes poker parties in the wood-paneled film The Shape of meeting rooms on the hotel’s 19th floor. Water. Top right: The And it’s not just the luxurious front-of-house counter at George Street Diner, where that shows up on screen, says Fairmont Royal Daniel Radcliffe and Zoe York's Film & Entertainment Manager: “Our Kazaran discussed their sub-basement is really popular: They’ll film relationship in the in the garbage room and the mechanics room.” movie The F Word. Left: Journalist Kate Robert Kennedy’s 1968 assassination at the Taylor strolling Toronto's Ambassador Hotel in Los Angeles has been Distillery District. Right: restaged in the Royal York kitchens four times. Shadows on concrete stairs in the Financial Top: The convenience store where the series District, which was the “Kim’s Convenience” was shot. Left: Toronto's setting for legal drama Financial District's glass towers starred in the legal Suits and posed as New drama “Suits” and played New York in “Molly’s Game.” York in Molly's Game.

38 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 39 The lobby of the Royal York is also out that the deal included no guarantee that a good place for some discreet star gazing the programs would be Canadian rather than during the Toronto International Film Festival American. Still, Simard in the city’s film office “My exploration of these in September, when celebrities can be spotted points out that while the arrival of big-budget at downtown hotels and restaurants. American series is driving up the US share sites is coinciding with The festival, always known locally as TIFF, of dollar volume of the Toronto business, has grown from a small public event started the number of Canadian productions remains a boom in film production by film buffs in 1976 into one of the largest steady at around 40 percent. in the world, a major draw for both moviegoers So, the city does sometimes get to play in Toronto.” and the industry. TIFF features a large offering itself: Favorite examples include “The F Word,” of Canadian, foreign and art-house films, but it in which Daniel Radcliffe and Zoe Kazan also serves as a launching pad for Hollywood’s discuss their relationship in the booths of the fall season, an event where producers can test George Street Diner and go skinny-dipping off their commercial titles on eager audiences. the Scarborough Bluffs, and “Take This Waltz,” The rest of the year, Canadians are known for in which Michelle Williams and Seth Rogen their friendly discretion when observing famous ride the ferry to and from the Toronto Islands. faces in their midst and, when not closeted Familiar Canadian TV comedies visibly shot in on set, actors in town for film shoots can often the city include “Workin’ Moms” and “Kim’s pass unnoticed. But in September, Canadian fans Convenience,” about a Korean family that runs a lose some of their reserve: Screaming crowds corner store. Riding the Queen streetcar through gather along the red carpets outside TIFF the down-at-heel Moss Park neighborhood one venues on King Street West while the star-struck day, I spied the real store that has been decked also linger outside nearby restaurants such as out with the “Kim’s Convenience” sign for Montecito and Byblos or head uptown to posh the show’s exterior shots – and felt both instant Yorkville where Sassafraz is still considered recognition and a certain pride. Ah yes, there is a prime place to sight celebrities. the real Toronto. Not every Canadian, however, is sold on Hollywood glitz. In 2017, when Netflix Top Left: Wiseacre Props and the various costumes at Cinespace Studios. Top Right: Furniture in storage announced it was making a commitment at Wiseacre Props at Cinespace Studios. Right: Old to spend CDN $500 million over five years telephone sets from a time passed, stored at Wiseacre

in production in this country, film critics pointed Props at Cinespace Studios. SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI

Rails of period costumes at Wiseacre Props at Cinespace Studios. 40 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 41 Travel Notebook

Fairmont Gold The hotel’s 12th to 18th floors have recently been remodeled to create superior residential-style rooms and suites featuring in-room theaters, marble bathrooms and access to both private check-in and an exclusive lounge.

ESSENTIAL TORONTO EATING OUT OUT AND ABOUT FILM FESTIVALS From the places where the movie Often dismissed as a financial hub, A movie buff’s dream, Toronto is home crowd hangs out during film festivals Toronto also has a great many to scores of top-ranking film festivals. to the spots that have starred in noteworthy cultural sites, from dynamic movies themselves, Toronto has no art districts to stand-out architecture. Toronto International Film Festival shortage of exciting dining options. North America’s largest film fest and an industry Distillery District Table to Book must in the long lead-up to the Oscars, TIFF Terroni On the east side of downtown, the former As part of the 90th anniversary renovation, dovetails with Toronto’s Hollywood North Since the mini chain has added two LA locations, whiskey and rum distillery is now a pedestrian the hotel has unveiled two new foodie spots, ambitions. With more than 300 films on offer, this pizzeria is known to Hollywood: Jake zone. Film crews appreciate the brick lanes, including the CLOCKWORK Champagne & wise movie lovers skip the red-carpet titles that Gyllenhaal and Julia Roberts have been seen stone facades and Balzac’s Coffee. Cocktails featuring a beautifully crafted clock will soon appear in the multiplex and find hidden eating in the Queen West branch. tower where locals flock for Champagne and gems in the international categories. terroni.com Black Creek Pioneer Village craft cocktails served with small plates. The Filmmakers seeking a period look can also head second is Reign, a modern Canadian brasserie Toronto After Dark Byblos to this heritage attraction in the northwest Fairmont Royal York with a French twist on and off the plate. Horror, sci-fi and action get their close-up Come September, this restaurant with corner of the city. The Upper Canadian vibe at the Scotiabank Theatre as this smaller festival its inventive Eastern Mediterranean menu and a working flour mill should delight young When the Canadian Pacific Railway opened a new hotel across the street from Toronto’s tracks the rise of new approaches to old genres. becomes a prime place to spot visiting visitors. Union Station in 1929, the Royal York could boast it was the biggest in the British celebrities. Empire. Today, the empire may be gone but Fairmont Royal York is still a civic landmark Hot Docs byblosdowntown.com R.C. Harris Water Treatment Plant synonymous with grandeur and luxury, but also film, as one of the city’s top filming North America’s largest documentary The largest Art Deco building in Toronto, this locations. Renovations marking the property’s 90th anniversary promise to up hold festival, this springtime celebration of the Montecito 1930s facility at the eastern edge of the Beaches the tradition. documentarian’s art is a casual uptown event This Cal-Canadian venue is a hub for industry still cleans a third of the city’s water – when not centered around the Annex’s Bloor Cinema. activity during the festival. But call ahead: playing a penitentiary or hospital in the movies. Ask for Mr. Paul Marino, Popular King West spots are often closed for Fairmont Royal York Chief Concierge private TIFF parties. Scarborough Bluffs “We have a lot of guests who come into the city montecitorestaurant.ca These cliffs overlooking Lake Ontario in for the film festival to take in films and experience Toronto’s East End welcomed a Viking landing the buzz, looking for last-minute tickets to galas, Library Bar The Lakeview Restaurant in “American Gods,” while Daniel Radcliffe to premieres. We have a connection… Nine times This wood-paneled hole is the perfect spot The restaurant itself is the star: The vintage and Zoe Kazan went skinny-dipping off Bluffer’s out of 10 we can get the tickets.” to test the house spirit: 14th In Line gin diner appeared in “The Shape of Water” Park beach in “The F Word.” is a bold botanical exclusively distilled and serves brunch 24/7. for the hotel by Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers thelakeviewrestaurant.ca in Niagara. And savor a bit of naughty too – the bar is the setting for Jezebel’s brothel

PHOTOS: J. COUNTESS / GETTY IMAGES NORTH AMERICA, BRIAN MACDONALD / PHOTODISC / GETTY IMAGES, WEI FANG / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES. / MOMENT WEI FANG / GETTY IMAGES, / PHOTODISC AMERICA, BRIAN MACDONALD NORTH COUNTESS / GETTY IMAGES J. PHOTOS: BAR). (LIBRARY BARRE BRANDON BOOK), (C) TO (TABLE YORK ROYAL FAIRMONT GOLD), (FAIRMONT BARRE BRANDON (C) (HOTRL), YORK ROYAL FAIRMONT PHOTOS: in “The Handmaid’s Tale” TV series.

42 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 43 MOMENTS Places & Perspectives INSIDER CULTURE CRUSH “From Amarillo to Marfa, and Austin to Dallas, I embarked on a Texan art odyssey beyond the confines of street art.” By Liddy Berman – Photos Michael Muller

TEXAS

arge monoliths are silhouetted against invested its time and energy into bringing art the sky, appearing from a distance like an to the city, escorts me onto the 75,000-acre L ancient monument, echoing Stonehenge cattle ranch that is home to this monumental in England. It’s only as I draw closer that they work. At first glance,Amarillo Ramp could crystallize into clearer view, their delicately almost be a natural feature of the landscape. sculpted tailfins rising proudly above the A semi-circular mound of earth 13 feet high desert. Ten Cadillacs, buried nose-first in the rises gently above the surrounding plains, earth, sparkle in neon colors. Spray-paint cans inviting me to ascend and find a new perspective. in hand, a few intrepid visitors have decided Recalling a Native American burial mound to contribute to the artwork, adding shapes, or an ancient Egyptian mastaba, the work lines, colors, and sometimes even their names challenges the viewer, inspiring them to climb to these unconventional sculptures. It’s the Wild its gentle slope and circumnavigate its perimeter. West, contemporary art-style. Like so many artworks I’ll see in the next few Liddy Berman is a New York-based I’m on a Texas art treasure hunt, searching days, the ramp succeeds best in partnership with art advisor and art historian out the hidden gems scattered across this the scenery, highlighting the expansive blue sky who specializes in curating giant state. Hometown pride, vast spaces and the endless vista of local land, while also and building contemporary art and immense wealth have seeded a flowering giving me a place within it, a new viewpoint collections. She also writes about of the arts in the Lone Star State. Public art, on the interactions of color, light and space. art for Architectural Digest and in particular, has flourished here, finding From there, a quick spin down the highway Departures magazine. Check out an eager and appreciative audience. Whether takes me past the Floating Mesa, a giant additional highlights from this you’re taking in Amarillo’s repainted road sculptural intervention on a local hilltop that trip and other art adventures on signs, emblazoned with quotes and artistic makes it appear like the top of the mesa has Instagram @LiddyBerman and at homages, communing with color in Austin’s lifted off to hover in the sky. My drive through eleusisartadvisory.com. serene Ellsworth Kelly chapel, making an art town reveals repainted road signs at unexpected lover’s pilgrimage to Donald Judd’s Minimalist turns. A dinosaur roars on one, a broken-hearted masterpieces in Marfa, or even just admiring the country song lyric unfurls across another. Spartan beauty of the Texan landscape, there’s Visits to Amarillo’s most popular public an abundance of visual wealth everywhere artworks, the aforementioned Cadillac Ranch you look. and the Legs of Amarillo, add pops of spray- I begin my journey at Amarillo Ramp, painted color to my day. the last piece by legendary Earthworks artist Robert Smithson. Bradley Holland, a longtime

member of the local artists’ collective that’s AUSTIN. THE CONTEMPORARY SUS. 2019, QUAM ALIA AUT GONZO?*, ARE YOU, *HI, HOW MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, CRUZVILLEGAS, ILLORE ABRAHAM MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI ARTWORK:

Liddy Berman taking in Abraham Cruzvillegas's *Hi, how are you, Gonzo?* 44 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 45 at The Contemporary Austin. “It would be easy to stay here for hours, watching the works change with the sunset and the weather, but the lure of more art, and lunch, pulls me onwards.”

Nightfall sees me on the road, heading A quick stop at local favorite Food Shark, south to Minimalist haven of Marfa. an airstream trailer that serves fresh and Warm orange glows from fires burning off delicious Mediterranean food in a casual the release valves in the oil fields stand out against outdoor setting, satiates my hunger and leaves the dark skies, and oil pumps work busily away me ready for my visit to The Block, Judd’s former in the distance, their rhythmic movement almost residence. So called because the space occupies hypnotic. This fusion of nature and industry will an entire city block, the two airplane hangars run throughout my Texas trip, with so many and private home that make up the complex of the artists who worked here being inspired are surrounded by gently undulating adobe by the landscape, the industry and the massive walls, an architectural and artistic installation scale of the Lone Star State. designed by Judd shortly after he purchased Perhaps no artist appreciated this setting the space. Light shimmers in a serene blue pool “A quick spin down more than Donald Judd, the father of the adjacent to the house, and leaves flutter in the Minimalist art movement, who purchased wind that chases through the shady trees. the highway takes me past a decommissioned army base in Marfa Judd’s personal library spreads across the space, to transform into his personal art paradise. The 13,000 books organized by the artist based on the Floating Mesa, a giant base, run by the Chinati Foundation, is home themes and common threads filling its stacks. to both Judd’s own work and that of his close His early works have found a home here too. sculptural intervention on friends. Dan Flavin’s color-swapping fluorescent In a carefully assembled array of sculptures, a local hilltop that makes light sculptures inhabit part of the old barracks, curated by the artist himself, the works seem filling the space with rich, saturated colors that to speak to each other, drawing out new qualities it appear like the top of blend and meld together in a place where bunk in themselves from their proximity to the others. beds used to crowd. Judd’s aluminum boxes There’s a serenity here that permeates the mesa has lifted off shimmer with all the colors of the landscape, the town, and a creative energy that still reflecting my surroundings back at me with inspires many artists and art lovers to live to hover in the sky.” infinite slight variations, and bringing my here and add to this vibrant community.

attention to the redness of the brick, the blueness Ballroom Marfa, a foundation dedicated to AUSTIN. THE CONTEMPORARY , 2015, of the sky and the warm light of the sun. highlighting contemporary art, was opened Often Minimalist art can be seen as cold, by urban transplants who fell in love with too sleek to hold onto with your eyes. But here, the desert. Perhaps they supported the installation UP LOOKING in this desert setting of stark natural beauty, the of Elmgreen & Dragset’s iconic Prada Marfa works glow with warmth and echo and enhance as a wink at their former urban lives. This tiny Left: A feat of both balance and grace, Nancy their surroundings. It would be easy to stay here but perfectly realized storefront in the middle Rubins's Monochrome for Austin (2015) stands 50 feet tall and features 70 recycled aluminum for hours, watching the works change with the of the desert is delightfully incongruous here, canoes and small boats protruding from the end of sunset and the weather, but the lure of more art, and yet somehow it feels as if it belongs, like a listing column. Right: Highway 90 near Valentine, Texas, which runs to Jacksonville Beach in Florida. and lunch, pull me onwards. it’s an indelible part of the landscape. SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT FRIEDMAN, MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE TOM MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI ARTWORK: Tom Friedman's Looking Up, situated outside The 46 Fairmont Magazine FairmontContemporary Magazine Austin. 47 Moments New Perspectives

Top: Liddy Berman wandering through Jacob Hashimoto’s Nuvole (2016-2018) exhibition at the Crow Museum of Asian Art. Bottom Left: From the Sun to Zürich by Carol Bove, 2016. Stainless steel and urethane paint. The Contemporary Austin – Laguna Gloria, Austin, Texas. Right: Renowned American artist Ellsworth Kelly's Austin, his most monumental work which he gave to the Blanton Museum.

The landscape informs the public art UT’s Blanton Museum also oversees in Austin as well, of which there is a profusion. Ellsworth Kelly’s Austin, a monument The University of Texas–Austin and its patrons to color and light that captivates the eye and have played a major role in bringing world-class the mind from within and without. Careful contemporary art to the city. Their critically slices of stained glass project vibrant colors acclaimed Landmarks program brings outdoor onto the chapel’s floor and walls, the shapes sculptures to Austin so that you stumble upon and hues moving with the passage of the a Sol Lewitt concrete masterpiece, a vibrant sun. The museum itself hosts a rotating series assemblage of canoes by Nancy Rubens or of excellent art exhibitions; I’m always happy the graceful red I-beams of Mark di Suvero’s to have the chance to drop in here. Slipknot as you navigate the streets. James The soft expanses of greenery and the Turrell’s Skyspace, an austerely beautiful chapel warm weather inspire me to head to Laguna with a carefully cut skylight, brings my attention Gloria, The Contemporary Austin’s beautiful to a perfect oval of Texas sky, framed in a new outdoor sculpture garden. Founded by Edward context. and Betty Marcus, with the intent of creating “From malls and football an “art-in-nature” experience for Austin’s locals and visitors alike, the park invites a lingering stadiums to sidewalks, wander. Mine takes me past Tom Friedman’s Looking Up, a posture I recognize from my own gardens and museums, Top: The James D. Pfluger Pedestrian and Bicycle Bridge stretches across Lady Bird Lake in downtown Austin, Texas, and connects recent moments spent staring up at the Texas the north and south sides of the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail. sky. New works by Carol Bove and Jessica the locals experience great Above: Ronald Kirk footbridge which crosses the Trinity River, connecting Stockholder play with forms and lines, while art here every day as part downtown and West Dallas. Bottom Left: Make Tacos Not War (2007), neon sign Elmgreen & Dragset’s Watching, a sculpture by Alejandro Diaz for the exhibition Words Matter at the Blanton Museum. Top Left: Clock Knot (2007) by Mark di Suvero at Landmarks, of a boy on a lifeguard’s chair using binoculars, of their normal routines.” The University of Texas at Austin. KONG. YORK/LONDON/HONG ZWIRNER, NEW ANGELES; AND DAVID YORK/LOS NEW MACCARONE, THE ARTIST; COURTESY BOVE. © CAROL ARTWORK watches it all.

48 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 49 Travel Notebook

A brief drive north gets me to Dallas in The lush greenery of the Nasher seems to Top: Prada Marfa (2005) site-specific, permanent time for the sunset, a rather dramatic affair continue inside at the Dallas Museum of Art, land art project by artists Elmgreen & Dragset (co-produced by Art Production Fund and Ballroom that fills the sky with every color of the rainbow where Jonas Wood’s color-soaked paintings Marfa) modeled after a Prada boutique. Below: and recalls Ellsworth Kelly’s Austin. My arrival bring life to vibrant plants, artist portraits Stone steps at the Chinati Foundation in Marfa. at Fairmont Dallas offers me the opportunity and cool interiors. Artworks ancient and for more art-viewing before the day is out. modern fill the museum, offering me 5,000 NOT TO MISS EAT, DRINK AND PLAY NATURAL WONDERS Thoughtfully chosen works from regional artists years of history on display. draw me across the lobby to examine them A quick hop away at the Crow Museum Texas teems with art shows, The Lone Star State has some The art scene aside, Texas also has a wealth more closely, and give me a sense of harmony of Asian Art, the proud legacy of local collectors venues and installations. top-ranking restaurants to refuel of spectacular outdoor draws not to miss. and place in this busy metropolis. Trammell and Margaret Crow, a new installation in between seeing the sights. The hotel is steps away from Dallas’s major by artist Jacob Hashimoto sways lightly Amarillo Big Bend Natural Park museums, so I alight in the morning ready as I walk beneath it. Its countless white paper The works not to miss here include the Amarillo Cochineal, Marfa Get lost in 800,000 acres of one of the United to explore. The Calatrava-designed suspension circles whisper gently over my head, and remind Ramp by Robert Smithson and the Cadillac Sit down at Cochineal for luscious New States’s biggest natural parks. Try the Chimneys bridge that has become a beloved local landmark me of cherry blossoms in the spring. Ranch by Ant Farm. American fare from a seasonal menu that’s or Marufo Vega trails or explore the Santa Elena soars upwards towards the sky, while at the When it comes to art, Texas goes big. From constantly changing to suit the fresh produce Canyon, which separates the US and Mexico. Meadows Museum, Wave, a kinetic work malls and football stadiums to sidewalks, Marfa of the day. cochinealmarfa.com by the architect, undulates rhythmically over gardens and museums, the locals experience While exploring this part of Texas, make sure Caddo Lake a reflecting pool. One of Claes Oldenburg’s great art here every day as part of their to stop at the Chinati Foundation (chinati.org) The White Horse, Austin The only natural lake in Texas is a sprawling iconic mouse sculptures sits in the upper normal routines. Whether you come here to as well as The Block at the Judd Foundation. Feel like a local at The White Horse, where you labyrinth of eerie bayous and wetlands, and courtyard. Its off-kilter round ears recall joyful see the art, as I find myself doing time and juddfoundation.org can dance to live music or simply sit back a great spot to explore via kayak. childhood memories of Mickey, and its elegant again, or simply have the unexpected pleasure and drink in the atmosphere. lines draw my eye across its graceful planes. of encountering it on your way, you’ll leave with Austin thewhitehorseaustin.com Palo Duro Canyon At the Nasher Sculpture Center, I step into a new appreciation for the diversity of beauty UT Austin's Landmarks Program. “The Grand Canyon of Texas,” the second largest Richard Serra’s My Curves Are Not Mad, in Texas. And that is an excellent souvenir. (landmarks.utexas.edu), as well as the Blanton Contigo, Austin in the US, is a sunken valley of impressively enchanted with the way the steel panels of Museum of Art and its Ellsworth Kelly chapel. Sample ranch-style hospitality at Contigo, where colored terra-cotta that can be explored by the sculpture bend the echoes of my footsteps blantonmuseum.org you’ll find seasonal local cocktails and steaks bicycle. and send them back to me. Another Turrell grilled to perfection. contigotexas.com Skyspace occupies the garden here, allowing me Dallas Enchanted Rock an opportunity to contrast my views “looking Nasher Sculpture Center. Rapscallion, Dallas The country’s second-largest granite dome up” in Austin and Dallas, a delicious luxury (nashersculpturecenter.org), and the Dallas Celebrate Southern cooking here, where the is a top spot to camp out for the night and take for the seasoned art viewer. New shows Museum of Art. dma.org Nashville-style hot chicken and “Gammy’s baked in those big starry Texan skies. by celebrated artists Sterling Ruby and Isa mac” will make you feel like you’re back home – Genzken span the interior space of the museum, no matter where you’re from. which delights in bringing the latest works from dallasrapscallion.com most desirable artists to its audience.

Right: Windows depicting a life-size Alice, straight from the pages of Lewis Carroll's book; a sequence of Eadweard Muybridge stop-motion photographs; Pablo Picasso's eyes, a shot of Elizabeth Taylor; other images at The Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center. PHOTOS: JMANAUGH3, CHINATI FOUNDATION, COURTESY OF HARRY RANSOM HUMANITIES HUMANITIES RANSOM OF HARRY COURTESY FOUNDATION, CHINATI JMANAUGH3, PHOTOS: JENNIFER M. RAMOS. RESEARCH CENTER, ©CONTIGO TEXAS, GETTY IMAGES

50 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 51 Eat and Drink Cocktail Culture Celebrate the art of fine cuisine at Created with a host of award-winning the Pyramid Bar and Restaurant, and enjoy mixologists headed up by Andrew Grenz, a lingering cocktail at the Pyramid Bar while one of the six elite Fairmont Tastemakers you take in the art collection. who crafted the Classics Perfected 2.0, “The Decades” menu is a new cocktail collection available to guests at Fairmont bars and lounges worldwide. There’s really no better place for sipping on something out of the ordinary.

Rooms Indulgent touches like customized Le Labo products and impossibly soft sheets will revive you between meetings Perfect Patio and museum visits. Found on the 7th floor, Rules & Regs is the ideal spot to watch the city lights twinkle in the distance. Guests can indulge in the elaborate cocktail menu and snacks like Fairmont Dallas Fairmont Austin tacos and the juicy signature R&R burger.

Situated in the heart of Dallas’s Arts District, Fairmont Dallas offers prime access to art A towering icon in the dynamic Central Business District, Fairmont Austin is nestled both within and outside its walls. Known as a haunt for celebrities and high occasions, amid the lush greenery of Palm Park and Waller Creek. Opened in 2018, the 1,048 the hotel also offers an artist residency program and a carefully curated collection rooms all come with views of Lady Bird Lake and the downtown skyline. The hotel of artwork from regional talents. mirrors the city’s celebrated creative spirit, through a vibrant rock and blues music theme in the decor and via various events.

Music Heritage Artist in Residence Art Program Music, in its many forms, fills Austin’s streets and its many venues. International Check out Hobbes Vincent’s beautiful 13-foot sculpture Each artist in the Fairmont’s art program is festivals like South by Southwest and Austin City Limits garner global attention, while of a stag on your way to check in, ask hotel team given three months to live and work in one other, lesser-known events are creating buzz within the music industry. Places to have members to show you Riley Holloway’s singular portraits of the hotel’s beautiful suites, drawing on your list should include the Scoot Inn, established in 1871. Originally of themselves, and let Paul Peña’s trompe-l’œil paintings inspiration from the hotel and local area a site for bootlegging and gambling, the saloon-style venue has become an Austin Culinary Melting Pot confuse and delight your eye as you wander the hotel’s as they craft works specifically for inclusion favorite. Located on the city’s lively downtown 6th Street, The Parish is regarded The hotel boasts five bars and restaurants, expansive public spaces. in the Fairmont Dallas’s collection. Ask the as the best indoor live music venue in Austin. Also check out Antoine’s, a nightclub including the Revue food hall, Garrison grill concierge to direct you to the current artist- and iconic blues and R&B venue that boosts local talent. and Good Things coffee shop. Influencers hail in-residence’s studio for a rare inside look from far and wide to experience Fairmont into the artist’s creative practice. Austin's culinary offerings. PHOTOS: FAIRMONT DALLAS (HOTEL), (C) VRX (ROOMS). VRX (C) (HOTEL), DALLAS FAIRMONT PHOTOS: POT). MELTING KANG (CULINARY HUBERT PATIO), PERFECT CULTURE, COCKTAIL (HOTEL, AUSTIN FAIRMONT PHOTOS:

52 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 53 MOMENTS Places & Perspectives RIVIERA INSIDER

“On my trip to Monaco, I delved beyond its glitzy veneer to explore the locals’ well-loved places, where life chimes to a slower, southern pace.” By Lanie Goodman – Photos Henry Roy

MONACO

t first glance, you barely realize that high-rollers and glamor-puss socialites who you’ve left France behind. The only arrive by helicopter. Ask any native about their A signs that you’ve entered the sovereign sovereign Prince Albert II, known as “the green state of Monaco are the perfectly manicured monarch,” and chances are they will praise red-and-white flower beds at the traffic his commitment to environmental programs. roundabout where a few laser-eyed Monegasque “It’s not just the blue sea and sunshine” policemen with snazzy white caps will salute says my friend Cinzia Colman, an Italian-born you politely if you ask for directions. 40-year resident who organizes an annual And that’s where the clichés end. Once awards gala for the Monte-Carlo Woman tagged as an ostentatious tax haven for an aging of the Year. “We have a real international set of wealthy expatriates, there’s another side community with great schools, hospitals and of Monaco that has little to do with its glitzy public services.” Add to that a feeling of security veneer. – there are almost 500 sophisticated 24-hour Born and raised in New York, Lanie Over the past two decades, I’ve watched surveillance cameras in a radius that is smaller Goodman is an arts and travel writer the Principality (a 20-minute drive from than New York’s Central Park – and it’s no based in the South of France since my adopted home town on the Côte d’Azur) wonder the enclave attracts so many select 1988. The author of “ Romantic morph into a resolutely modern destination, visitors and residents. French Homes” and “ Moving making strides to innovate in every domain Funnily enough, we tend to forget Towards the Light: The Paintings from major cutting-edge art and music to novel that Monaco was once the poorest country of Joseph Raffael,” she contributes approaches to eco-friendly sports and tourism. in Europe, since nothing could be made from to Condé Nast Traveler, The Wall And beyond the racket of jackhammers and the its rocky soil. And then came the Casino: Street Journal and others. ubiquitous cranes for the ongoing construction Monaco’s reigning Prince Charles III created of soaring skyscrapers, there’s also a quieter this ornate gambling house in 1863 to generate glamour and hidden pockets of stunning natural new revenue. When his early attempts failed, he splendor. handed the project over to shrewd businessman Likewise, the perennial presence of mega François Blanc, who raised the capital and wooed yachts in the harbor and the rows of gleaming Paris’s star architect, Charles Garnier, to build red Ferraris parked at the Monte-Carlo the new casino, and also founded the Société Casino Square are also part of the legend; so is des Bains de Mer (the S.B.M.), which manages the fairy-tale romance of Prince Rainier III and and owns many of the businesses in Monaco, American actress Grace Kelly. However, native from restaurants to casinos to museums. Monegasques (approximately 9,000 out of In 1962, 12 years after Prince Rainier came 38,000 residents) take all that in stride; they are to the throne, the state became the principal

impervious to the endless stream of celebrities, shareholder. And the real moneymaking began. SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, CARLO. MONTE ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI FAIRMONT

Aerial view of the Monaco Hercule Port 54 Fairmont Magazine and of Fairmont Fairmont Monte Magazine Carlo. 55 Moments The Great Escape

The best way to explore Monaco (under a square mile in total area and divided into four different districts) is on foot. To avoid the steep hills, there are seven elevators that take you from sea level to Monte Carlo and Monaco; another option are the free electric-assisted bikes and an electric shuttle boat to cross the harbor. Begin with a stroll through Larvotto, the easternmost strip of sandy beaches. The first stop is an urban oasis of fragrant quietude at the Zen-inspired Japanese garden, which includes everything from a red arched bridge over a brook to meditative corners with stone statues. And there’s always something happening at the next-door contemporary complex, the Grimaldi Forum, a hub of cultural activity for top-ranking art exhibitions, concerts and trade shows. However, off the beaten track, are well- loved local hot spots visitors should have on their list, like La Note Bleue, a private beach and restaurant by day and an outdoor summer music lounge bar by night, run by couple Anne and Alain Tanzi since 2002. You may be lucky enough to catch major jazz stars like Jacky Terrasson, Mike Stern or Monegasque resident John McLaughlin, who perform for an intimate cocktail-sipping crowd on balmy nights. Up on the hill nearby is the swanky Monte Carlo Country Club, where world champions compete, and behind the Down by Port Hercule at the harbor, clubhouse, hidden away on a dirt road, is La the landscape has shifted considerably now that différAnce. A friendly family-run restaurant the 1,800m2 Norman Foster-designed Yacht perched on a cliff with a pretty wooden deck, Club juts out over the quay like an elegant it is surrounded by succulents and has a killer curved ocean liner. Open to members only, this view of the shimmering Mediterranean (not a is where the elite Monegasque yachting set dine building in sight). Its specialties of authentic, on the terrace restaurant, sip Champagne by affordable Provençal fare include octopus the pool and hold business meetings in the plush salad, fried calamari, sea bass and homemade 1950s-inspired wood-paneled Riva clubhouse. lemon meringue pie for dessert. “We called it Add to that a diverse range of private social ‘La différAnce’ with an ‘A’ instead of an ‘e’,” or sporting events, including concerts by the explains owner Chantal, “because we work likes of Sting and parties organized by the with the Monegasque AMAPEI, an association Monaco Ambassadors Club or the Rolex to help children with disabilities, and they often Giraglia Cup races. come here to work in our garden.” Non-members can still browse the Yacht Club boutique and you may also want to pop next door to linger at the Société Nautique’s “Once tagged as an sunny cafe set out on the dock and watch the silent ballet of Monaco’s renowned muscled ostentatious tax haven rowers glide through the water. for an aging set of wealthy

expatriates, there’s another Top: The Mediterranean-style Saint-Martin gardens brim with colorful flowers and palms. Right: Brazilian side of Monaco.” artist Marco Marin’s sculpture of Prince Rainier III

PHOTOS: ©ISTOCK TANJAKDESIGN. ©ISTOCK PHOTOS: MARIN. ◊MARCOS MONACO, ©VISIT PHOTOS: in front of the Café du Cirque de Monte-Carlo. The Oceanographic Museum of Monaco was inaugurated in 1910 by Prince Albert I. 56 Moments - Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 57 d’Armes, you’ll see couples filling their straw baskets with fresh produce and nibbling barbajuans – a Monegasque fried ravioli stuffed with Swiss chard and parmesan. The covered market, which has some terrific food stalls, is a great place if you’re looking for a casual lunch or dinner. Best bet: truffle pizza at Bistrot des Truffes, or violet carrot gnocchi at La Maison des Pâtes, where they serve over a dozen varieties of unusual homemade pasta. Don’t miss a stop under the arches at the stylish newly opened cafe EOLA (Eat Organic Live Active), featuring imaginative healthy dishes and a cappuccino machine with a device that will turn a photo of your face into delicious drinkable foam. For designer label cast-off finery, the nearby luxury consignment shop is a treasure trove for vintage finds. And come sunset, young professionals drift down to the port for an after-work cocktail at La Brasserie de Monaco, a friendly bar serving organic beer brewed on the premises, including signature creations If you’re among those who shy away from one of the very best, most elegant things like wheat and malted barley with bitter orange the uproarious high-octane atmosphere of the we have to offer,” says Monaco-born executive Top: The view of Monaco’s old town perched up on its ‘rock’, as it is called, from the Exotic Garden. and coriander. Grand Prix but love beautiful cars (personally, Eric Althaus, CEO-manager of Barnes Yachts. “What many visitors don’t know is that Bottom: The view of the Société Nautique and its famed rowing club, from its restaurant, which is Art gallery hopping is my kind of sport, I much prefer the annual Formula E, where “The courtyard is magical on a summer night.” rowing is the Principality’s oldest club, founded a great spot to stop for a drink or a snack right at the water’s edge. and there are plenty to choose from, including electric cars whiz around the circuit at bullet Talk about hypnotic. Up in the heights in 1888,” Jean-Marc Giraldi, President of the newly opened Artcurial. Come April, the speed), head to Fontvieille for Prince Rainier’s of the Moyenne Corniche (just past the NMNM the Société Nautique, tells me. “And that, Principality now hosts an annual art week huge private collection of snazzy vintage cars. Villa Paloma, Monaco’s superb contemporary coincidentally, Princess Grace’s father, John B. followed by an international fair (Monaco Art On display is everything from 1900s carriages art museum), there is no better place for Kelly – better known as ‘Jack’ – and her brother Week and Art Monte-Carlo). Among the hidden and a 1903 De Dion-Bouton to a gorgeous little a panoramic vista of the Principality than the John B. Kelly, Jr. were both outstanding multiple gems is a tour of the studio of Belgian artist and Renault-Alpine Berlinette and 80s Lamborghini Jardin Exotique, where you’ll also find a drippy Olympic gold-medal winners in rowing.” watercolorist extraordinaire, Jean-Michel Folon, Countach. This modern district, a concrete stalactite- and stalagmite-lined Neolithic grotto Down at the harbor at La Condamine, where you can also book an art workshop. sprawl of apartments and a shopping mall, and a Museum of Prehistoric Anthropology where blue wooden fishing boats still unload Up in the heights of Monte Carlo is the Francis might appear soulless at first, but there are full of skeletons. Founded in 1933, this their catch of the day, there’s a real sense Bacon MB Art Foundation, housed in a small green spaces galore, including the Princess Grace terraced wonderland of almost 7,000 tropical of neighborhood. Duck into a cafe and you may Belle Époque villa, which offers a fascinating Rose Garden, with over 8,500 fragrant bushes succulents and cacti is an ideal place to take even hear the old-timers speaking the ancient glimpse of a private collection of the British of every variety. The port of Fontvieille is home a break from boutique-hopping and dips in Monegasque dialect, which is also taught in the artist’s work from the period when he resided to one of the most atypical eateries, located the shimmering sea. Beyond the opulent dazzle local schools. Die-hard lap swimmers should in Monaco (by appointment only). at the tip of the quay: Les Perles de Monaco, of first impressions, Monaco’s bountiful riches take advantage of the outdoor Olympic-sized a simple wooden boat-like deck restaurant, run go far beyond what meets the eye. municipal pool, the Stade Nautique Rainier III, by Brittany-born Frédéric Rouxeville and Brice where you can bask with the locals. Cachia, former marine biologists who breed and In fact, a new glam energy has taken over serve platters of ultra-fresh oysters from their the district, beginning with the sleek, brand- own tanks, washed down with organic wine. new flagship concept store KOMO Monaco, If on your visit you venture up to “the Rock” “Rowing is the dreamed up by pastry wizard Pierre Hermé and to visit the State Apartments of the salmon-pink three-Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco Princely Palace, take advantage of the open-air Principality’s oldest club, (whose neighboring restaurant in Menton, Le concerts held in the Prince's Cour d'Honneur, Mirazur, was rated number one in the world!). ordinarily off limits to the public. “They are founded in 1888.” KOMO offers multi-brand street wear, jewelry by young designers, a restaurant lounge, a glitzy water bar with 140 brands and, of course, an Top: Inside the Condamine market on the Place d’Armes, where you can stop for a bite to eat. artfully arranged display of Hermé macarons. Left: Oysters at the restaurant Les Perles

Over at the Condamine’s lively Place CARLO. MONTE SOCIÉTÉ NAUTIQUE ©STUDIOBARCELONA, PHOTOS: HOUSER, LES PERLES DE MONACO. G. ©DAVE PHOTOS: de Monte-Carlo, a go-to for local seafood lovers.

58 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 59 Travel Notebook

Local Scoop Guests looking for top-ranking food with superb views won’t be disappointed by the hotel’s offerings, which range from a Nobu offshoot to rooftop dining at Horizon helmed by Meilleur Ouvrier de France chef Didier Aniès.

WHERE TO EAT WHAT TO SEE DON'T MISS

Discover the dining hotspots Take in the best of Monaco’s The Principality's high-profile sports loved by Monegasque locals. sights and museums. tournaments and summer concerts.

Les Perles de Monte-Carlo NMNM Monte-Carlo Summer Sporting Festival A convivial dining spot at the end of the pier Seasonal exhibitions of cutting-edge Come July, the atmosphere heats up at for the freshest oysters on the coast, raised in contemporary art housed in gorgeously the seaside landmark Salle des Étoiles, where the restaurant’s own tanks. restored Belle Époque villas. nmnm.mc the biggest pop stars on the planet come perlesdemontecarlo.com to perform. montecarlosbm.com/fr/activity/ Collection de Voitures Anciennes monte-carlo-sportingsummer-festival Formula 1 Dream La DifférAnce There’s nothing quite like Prince Rainier’s Formula 1 enthusiasts will be happy to know Just steps across the border to France sprawling collection of vintage automobiles, Summer Concerts at the Cour d’Honneur, that guests can watch the race as cars take the famous Fairmont Hairpin corner, from on a dusty path, this family-run eatery serves from 1900s carriages to gleaming high-tech Palais Princier the privacy of their spacious Grand Prix up tasty Provençal fare with a plunging view race cars. palais.mc A royal treat of classical music performed Fairmont Monte Carlo Suite. It is simply an unrivalled view! of the sea. ladifferance.com by the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic and a stellar The Atelier Fondation Folon program of guest soloists, held in a rarely seen Perched above the seafront on a steep curved road, Fairmont Monte Carlo boasts La Note Bleue This non-profit institute, housed in a jewel-box courtyard of the Princely Palace. seemonaco.com fantastic views over the Principality. And with its 24-hour Bistro Lounge & Bar, A private beach, restaurant and lounge villa, hosts a private collection of the work Saphir24, and rooftop Horizon Deck Restaurant & Champagne Bar, the hotel is always bar rolled into one, featuring a top-notch of Francis Bacon, who lived in Monaco Formula E humming with activity. summertime line-up of nightly live jazz, on and off between 1946 and 1950 and Held every other year, Formula E is the flip world and soul. lanotebleue.mc continued to visit regularly until his death side of the pandemonium of the Grand Ask for Mr. Aurélien Cathagne, Fairmont in 1992. Visits by appointment. Prix – exclusive electric vehicles whiz silently Monte Carlo’s Concierge Clefs d’Or La Brasserie de Monaco mbartfoundation.com around the track, breaking land speed records. “Start with what we call ‘the Rock’ – Monaco Ville. Expect a lively atmosphere and a crowd fiaformulae.com It’s timeless up in the Old Town, where you can get lost of young professionals at this portside bar Jardin Exotique in the maze of little streets, visit the Chocolaterie and brewery, where everyone flocks at happy Set into the slopes above the port, these The Rolex Monte-Carlo Masters Tournament de Monaco and see the changing of the guard every day hour for the superb craft beer and live DJs. spectacular botanical gardens feature Held in April, this weeklong event sees world at 11:55 am in the square in front of the Princely Palace. brasseriedemonaco.fr a wonderful array of cacti, a museum and tennis champions compete at the Monte-Carlo The cathedral is another unmissable landmark, where View a sea-level grotto. jardin-exotique.mc Country Club. montecarlotennismasters.com the former Princes of Monaco and Princess Grace were Take advantage of the rooftop pool, put to rest – her grave is sometimes overlooked because headquarters for the pop-up Nikki Beach it’s marked ‘Gratia Patricia.’ For something different festivities during the summer. Highlight: in shopping, I recommend a stroll down the Boulevard the romantic Horizon Deck Restaurant & des Moulins, where you’ll find small boutiques featuring Champagne Bar, with a sweeping view a range of young fashion designers.” of the coast. PHOTOS: JACK ANDERSEN / DIGITALVISION / GETTY IMAGES, JITALIA17 / E+ / GETTY IMAGES, MITCHELL GUNN / GETTY IMAGES SPORT. GUNN / GETTY IMAGES MITCHELL / E+ GETTY IMAGES, JITALIA17 / GETTY IMAGES, ANDERSEN / DIGITALVISION JACK PHOTOS: / SHUTTERSTOCK. MARCO KRUSE 1 DREAM, VIEW), FORMULA SCOOP, LOCAL (HOTEL, CARLO MONTE © FAIRMONT PHOTOS:

60 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 61 MOMENTS Places & Perspectives THE FLAVOR HUNTER “Venturing into the heart of Jaipur’s food scene allowed me to delve into the history of India’s prized golden spice.” By Niamh Shields – Photos Joann Pai

JAIPUR

aipur is a lively city in every way that you We first make our way through the maelstrom can imagine. Locals walk through traffic as we head to the Chandpole Bazar, where J as though they are magicians, with just one most of the spice shops of Jaipur are located. hand raised to defend them from the oncoming We are seeing turmeric, which has a warm, tide of vehicles. Bicycles with caged trailers bitter and earthy flavor that's similar to mustard of chickens make their way to market, women in powder form. Turmeric may have become carry stacks of boxes with fruit and vegetables a buzzword in Western wellness circles in recent on their heads, resting on a knot of fabric years, but in India it has been used for over or a brightly colored circular support to protect 4,000 years and Indians have long been aware their heads. The city’s milk market is a collection of its health-giving properties. Uses of turmeric of churns carefully guarded by traders, brought can be traced back to the Vedic culture in India, to market mostly on motorbikes. where it was used not only as a culinary spice Within the terra-cotta walls of the old but also had religious significance. Turmeric Niamh Shields is an award-winning city, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has at least 53 different names in Sanskrit, food and travel writer and cookbook the streets are constantly abuzz with activity – which indicates how significant it is culturally; author. She is based in London but you may even spy an elephant or two, as we did. for instance, it is sometimes called hridayavilasini spends much of her time exploring Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, is also known (“gives delight to heart”), jayanti (“one that the markets and kitchens of the as the Pink City due to the rich, warm hues wins over diseases”) and jawarantika (“which world. Niamh loves local cooking of the beautiful Moorish-style buildings. cures fevers”). and recipes and believes that As well as jewels, it is also home to a vibrant An important spice in Indian cooking, sitting down to a meal at a local’s cultural heritage, history and, of course, lots turmeric is still used to cure all sorts of ailments. table is the best way to experience of wonderful food, which is the reason I have It is prepared as a haldi doodh, a milk drink, and and understand different cultures. traveled to northern India on this occasion. is also applied directly onto the skin to soothe Niamh is never happier than when I wanted to explore the country’s prized spice: burns, coughs, colds, sprains and wounds. invited into someone's kitchen while turmeric. It’s used in so many Indian dishes, Turmeric has been used for centuries as a natural traveling, to cook and learn about and while I know my way around even the skin cleanser mixed with milk, and also as the food they love. Niamh blogs most offbeat of Indian menus, I realized that an exfoliant. Science has taken note and there about her travels and shares recipes I knew close to nothing about this key ingredient have been thousands of studies on turmeric for home cooks at atlikeagirl.com. that is found in most dishes across the country. over the past 50 years, pointing to myriad Before starting my exploration, I meet Prasad therapeutic uses. It is also a powerful anti- Metrani, the award-winning chef at the helm inflammatory and is known to have antioxidant, of the kitchens of Fairmont Jaipur. He is to be wound-healing, antimicrobial, hypoglycemic my guide on my turmeric trail through the city, and anticarcinogenic properties. which, as a big fan of Indian cuisine, I can't wait

to explore. SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI

At the colorful wholesale fruit and vegetable market in Jaipur, 62 Fairmont Magazine where turmeric is also sold in its many different forms. Fairmont Magazine 63 This page, from top: Fairmont Jaipur Executive Chef Prasad Metrani takes food blogger Niamh Shields on a culinary journey through the Pink City's most vibrant markets. Bottom Left: Peeled fresh golden turmeric root, India's prized golden spice. Below: The root being ground by hand in small quantities for cooking. Opposite page: A quick stop at the local spice grinders, where turmeric, among other spices, is prepared for use in cooking.

Turmeric grows underground as a rhizome, Chef Prasad Metrani chooses his turmeric Some of my favorites that visitors to the just like ginger, and it looks similar, although and spices very carefully, and always sources city should have on their list include Gatte Ki you will notice flecks of gold peeping through them locally, in keeping with the hotel’s Sabzi, a lentil dumpling curry in a turmeric the skin. There are two types of turmeric: Sustainability Partnership Program. So, off we yogurt sauce, Mangodi Ki Sabzi, a rich lentil culinary turmeric, which is large (although went, to choose turmeric from his favorite spots. dumpling curry, Farsan, a turmeric-heavy savory still smaller than ginger), and the medicinal We made our way through the bustling snack eaten at teatime or at evening meals, type, which is smaller and narrower but streets of Jaipur to the spice shops. Large sacks and Laal Maas, a spicy, smoky curry from stronger, and contains a higher proportion of bulging with chili lean against the walls outside Jaipur, where lamb is cooked in a spiced chili the active ingredient Curcumin. Once harvested, and smaller sacks of spices pertinent to Indian gravy, also with turmeric as a base ingredient. the turmeric is boiled in alkaline water before cooking and health lie within, including sacks You don’t have to go far to find turmeric in Jaipur, being sun-dried and polished, and then sold of turmeric root, the two types separate. The and indeed it will be on your plate almost every whole or ground as spice powder. spices here are sold whole. Chef Metrani buys time you eat. India produces almost all of the world’s the spices for his kitchens from Ramswaroop turmeric crop and consumes 80% of it. Radhe Shyam, and brings them to the spice The most famous regions of India for turmeric grinders to have them freshly ground. production include Erode in Tamil Nadu, South We could hear a noisy pocket-sized shop India, also called the Yellow City, and Sangli nearby, which had three machines grinding in the state of Maharashtra. It is also grown coriander, chili and turmeric. This is where in villages around Jaipur and Udaipur, the city we stop to have our spices ground. The air is of lakes, in Rajasthan. Turmeric needs water heavy with fragrance and the sun outside beats to grow and flourishes in the winter in parts down on us. I watch as our dried turmeric roots of Rajasthan with enough water to support it. tumble into the grinder, coming out the bottom as an intense yellow powder. Chef Metrani tells me that the color and smell indicate the quality of the spice. The quantity of Curcumin will affect the smell, and the more vivid the color the better the quality. I had never seen turmeric this vibrantly colored. When cooking, turmeric is the spice that imparts curries with their bright golden color and it is used in a host of local dishes throughout the country. How it is used actually depends on the time of year. It is grown in winter and so is used fresh at this time in many dishes, including when making pickles, chutneys and sweets. It is also prepared as a vegetable. In other seasons, turmeric is used dried as a spice in many local Rajasthani dishes. SEQUI CONSEQUIS MAXIMAIO QUASSIM ILLORE NON CONSE MAIORE SEQUIST, ALIA AUT QUAM SUS. QUAM ALIA AUT MAIORE NON CONSE SEQUIST, ILLORE MAXIMAIO QUASSIM CONSEQUIS SEQUI

64 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 65 We prepared several pickles and chutneys By the time I was on my way home, with fresh turmeric, including a red chili my head was swimming with images of jostling, and garlic chutney and a sweeter, fruitier raisin sun-soaked markets, fuchsia saris and sacks and turmeric chutney. Turmeric pickle – sharp overflowing with gold turmeric so bright that with mustard oil and spices like amchoor, made it appeared to glow, and my notebook was full from dried green mango and therefore sour, to the brim with recipes for sweet and savory and fenugreek – was lovely and fresh, and can dishes with turmeric, a spice I used to take also be stored for a long time, carrying it through for granted. A book of well-guarded local to other seasons and making it a handy pantry secrets and traditions, I hugged it close to me, addition. Turmeric sabji is a rich, vibrant side realizing what a privilege it had been to spend dish, dominated by fresh turmeric and prepared a few days delving into the many uses of one with plenty of ghee. of India's most precious ingredients. We also tried our hand at making turmeric Niamh learns to cook some of Jaipur's top desserts sweets, which were delicious – surprisingly with the Jain Family Sweet Caterers at the market. so to me, who had never really been a big fan of Indian sweets. One of my favorites turned As the capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is home out to be the turmeric burfi, which was topped to the royal family and the current maharajah. with gold leaf, another signature of Royal Chef Metrani took me to meet the Jain Rajasthani cuisine that I certainly won’t be Family Sweet Caterers, who have cooked for forgetting in a hurry. the Rajasthani royal family for seven generations, Wrapping up, it was time for Chef Metrani and now cater for weddings and other events to return to his kitchens back at the hotel, using their heritage recipes. Historically, they and for me to continue my culinary journey by would cater for thousands of people at a time, assisting him in preparing (and tasting) some who were alerted to the feast by the beating of his signature dishes, like his fiery Laal Maas of a drum. The royal family liked their food and Dal Baati aur Choorma, a three-in-one to be rich with ghee, which was hydrating, and sweet-and-savory treat with jasmine rice. As the perfumed with ingredients like saffron and chef moved swiftly about his buzzy kitchens, rose. Turmeric featured heavily too, and I was his staff rustling up lavish meals for guests lucky enough to try some of the Jain Family’s who were settled in the dining room, the secrets Spice vendors sitting among the fabric sacs filled royal turmeric dish recipes as well as to cook of his cuisine were laid bare just long enough with dried turmeric and chilli at the fruit and vegetable market. with them and Chef Metrani. for me to grasp and record in my mind’s eye. “We prepared several pickles and chutneys with fresh turmeric, including a red chili and garlic chutney and a sweeter, fruitier raisin and turmeric chutney.”

Top: Chef Metrani's carefully laid out spices found Chef Metrani's favorite spice shop: Ramswaroop Radhe Shyam. in his kitchens. Right: Chef Metrani and Niamh Shields cooking together back at the hotel.

66 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 67 Travel Notebook

Taste Makers Try the Laal Maas at Zoya, one of the best in Jaipur. Chef Metrani slow-cooks the lamb with spices and chili before smoking it over charcoal with cloves. The Royal Thali at Zarin is also a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds.

PLACES FOR LUNCH SIGHTS TO EXPLORE LOCAL CRAFT SHOPPING

Jaipur has a plethora of top-ranking The Pink City is full of ornate Pick up Jaipur gold paintings, jewelry, restaurants and eateries to sample the local palaces and other sights to check Rajasthani clothing and marble at food culture; here are a handful of must-tries. out, but here are some essentials. emporiums in the New City or in the more atmospheric Old City bazaars. Spice Court Jantar Mantar Styled as a clubhouse with glass-topped tables, Completed in 1734, this UNESCO World Jaipur Cottage Industries giving a view onto displays of spices below the Heritage site comprises a collection of 19 Jaipur is particularly famous for gold Royal Explorer surface, it offers a fine dining experience to locals architectural astronomical instruments, including paintings, jewelry and marble. The best place Renowned for its service, Fairmont and visitors alike. Vegetarians and carnivores the world’s largest stone sundial. for this is Jaipur Cottage Industries, which can organize all sorts of memorable are served from two dedicated kitchens. has a vast collection of local products crafted experiences, so ask to see The Pink City Amber Fort by artisans from the surrounding villages. from the skies in a hot-air balloon, or explore LMB Only a 15-minute drive from the hotel, the further afield and embark on a temple trek An excellent spot to try local dish Dal Bhati fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Old City Bazaars in the Aravalli hills. For a glimpse of local life, Churma, a dry unleavened Rajasthani bread an expansive and beautiful historic palace The old part of the city is a great spot for Fairmont Jaipur ask to visit some of the nearby villages. served with dal and coarsely ground wheat constructed of red sandstone and marble. shopping; Johri Bazaar is excellent for jewelry cooked with ghee and sugar. You can enjoy Spread out over four levels, each with a and Bapu Bazaar is perfect for those looking The hotel is Fairmont's first in the country. The idea was to create a hotel that reflected it as part of their famous thali platter. courtyard, there is much to see and explore to stock up on beautiful Rajasthani clothes. the heritage of The Pink City. With its Moorish palace-like architecture, which channels here. It is surrounded by a great barrier wall plenty of old-world charm, the hotel was carefully designed and curated to embody Lassiwala reminiscent of the Great Wall of China. Jewels Emporium Mughal elements to reflect the royal past of the Rajputs. Highlights include the stellar You can’t walk very far in Jaipur without There is a sound and light show here that Take a tour of the workshops downstairs and service, the magnificent pool and, of course, the refined local cuisine. encountering a bustling chai stand, and there Fairmont Jaipur's concierge highly peruse the finished jewels in the showroom is lots of lassi to be had too. Fairmont chef recommends. upstairs, where you’ll see some of Jaipur’s finest Prasad Metrani’s favorite is Lassiwala downtown, pieces (think dazzling emerald necklaces). Bliss Hour which has been serving lassi in Jaipur since 1944 Monkey Temple Escape the bustling lifestyle of Jaipur and step into and was the first of its kind. A must for animal lovers, this ancient temple a cocoon of indulgence. Ruhab luxury spa hosts thousands of monkeys playing, relaxing at Fairmont Jaipur takes its inspiration from India’s Rawat Misthan Bhandar and even diving and swimming. It is quite ancient Ayurveda, a holistic medicine system Kachori is a popular street food snack and some the sight! translating to “knowledge of life” and focusing Dream Quarters of the best in the city is found here. The pyaaj on the harmonization of the full self. On the Silk curtains, four-poster canopy beds, plush (onion) kachori is particularly famous in Rajasthan Hawa Mahal treatment list? One-of-a-kind experiences tailored rugs and cushions and inlaid camel-bone – a kind of bread crossed with a pastry, with The city’s most distinctive landmark is the Hawa to your Zodiac sign, a wide range of massage options furniture is what you can expect a spiced onion filling. In terms of street food in Mahal, an extraordinary 1799 pink sandstone as well as steam bath and dry-heat sauna. in the rooms here, which brim with a sense Jaipur, the bread pakora is also unmissable. structure with a honeycombed hive facade that of place. rises five stories high. PHOTOS SERGIO AMITI / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES, LEONIE VON HAUSEN / MOMENT / GETTY IMAGES; JILL SCHNEIDER / NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE /GETTY IMAGES. /GETTY IMAGE GEOGRAPHIC JILL SCHNEIDER / NATIONAL / GETTY IMAGES; / MOMENT HAUSEN VON LEONIE / GETTY IMAGES, SERGIO AMITI / MOMENT PHOTOS MAKERS). CHOUHAN (TASTE MUKESH SONI (SPA), ARVIND (C) PHOTOS: 68 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 69 MOODS Styles & Essentials

VACATION STYLE Beach hopping with the family, touring the newest foodie hotspots or exploring the city on foot? We bring you the styles and essentials for each moment of the day, whether you've just unpacked or you’re headed out for a stroll, no matter where in the world you’re going. PHOTO: CYRILLE ROBIN. ROBIN. CYRILLE PHOTO: Fairmont Magazine 71 MOODS Styles & Essentials THE URBAN EXPLORER

Travel essentials for your city break, including smart layers 8 and shoes that seamlessly blend smart and casual. 2 3:05 PM Heading out to explore the city 1 - Brown mocassin leather loafers. Easy for dressing up or down, J.M. Weston.

2 - Aluminum Edition suitcase, designed 1 to last a lifetime and to fit perfectly in the overhead bins of major airlines, Away. 7

3 - Kenyatta dopp kit, the perfect toiletry bag for the discerning and environmentally conscious traveler, Want Les Essentials.

4 - Cloud laundry pouch, lightweight and compact, helps to carry shoes or personal 10 items to prevent them from arriving scattered, 5 Kikkerland.

5 - Pure castile liquid soap, for the face, hair and body that’s also good for the planet, 4 Dr. Bronner's. 3 6 - Ribbed striped cotton sweater, a classic 11 piece that can be worn with jeans as well as 9 chinos, Michael Kors.

7 - Earth crew-neck t-shirt, a timeless slim-fit cotton essential that’s comfortable to wear, The Whife Briefs.

9 - Navy bomber jacket, waterproof 8 - Navy jacket, the perfect addition to any laid-back and stylish vacation wardrobe, and warm, the perfect item to wear Michael Kors. on cooler evenings, Boss. 6 10 - Digital camera, the professional’s choice for capturing those key moments you’ll want to cherish forever, Fujifilm W-T3. 11:27 AM 11 - Cotton canvas Impala sneakers, Getting settled easily paired with jeans, chinos and shorts, in for a city break Jimmy Choo.

72 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 73 MOODS Styles & Essentials THE SMART TRAVELER

These stylish essentials are more about blending in than standing out. It only takes 3 10 a tailored pant and versatile white shirt to feel like a local. 4 4:15 PM Taking some time out

Grace trunk, inspired by the overnight 1 - 9 bag Gerald Murphy created for Grace Kelly in 11 "Rear Window", Mark Cross. 2

2 - Burlington washbag, the stylish way to carry your personal care items, Smythson.

3 - Eco-friendly bamboo toothbrush, because 5 7 13 there is no planet B, The Humble Co.

4 - Luxury Prince of Wales check eye mask, 14 with a pinch of lavender for soothing tired eyes, Otis Batterbee. 8 12 5 - White shirt, a well-cut staple for daytime and evening alike, Dries Van Noten. 6 6 - Glasses, stylish rims to give your eyes a rest from contact lenses, DSquared2.

7 - Pants, an addition that channels a relaxed vibe, Boss.

8 - Socks, the accessory that keeps you comfortable in-flights, Falke.

9 - Travel adapter with USB, the item never to leave behind so your gadgets are always 11 - Navy jacket, a stylish item for those charged, Kikkerland. cooler evenings, Boss. 1 10 - Shoe brush, a natural boar hair bristle 12 - Derbies, the classic shoe for dressing brush to keep your moccasins in mint condition, up or down, Dior Homme. Izola. 13 - Sunglasses, to give any vacation outfit a relaxed edge, Acne Studios.

9:05 AM 14 - Passport holder, the item to complete Unpacking upon arrival a stylish outfit for the frequent traveler, Smythson.

74 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 75 MOODS Styles & Essentials THE STYLISH VACATIONER

Like to look your best while on the go? Sport a sleek sun hat to keep those rays at bay 8 and a small cross-body bag 10 for carrying your essentials. 3 2 13

1 - Cole travel bag, an easy accessory to pair with any outfit and big enough to fit all your 11 on-the-go items, Mark Cross. 12 2 - Sarong, perfect for lounging by the pool 9 and doubles as a scarf on cooler days, Dior. 7

3 - Pina hat, ideal for keeping the sun off your 6 skin on long days out exploring, Maison Michel.

4 - Judith bracelet, a simple, stylish cuff to add some sparkle to any outfit, Andrea Zanconato. 1

5 - Sunglasses, the indispensable summer accessory, DSquared2. 14 6 - Roudoudou necklace and bracelet, for a touch of allure, Aurélie Bidermann. 7 - Book of Treasures jewelry box, for storing 12:46 PM your gems, Kikkerland. Getting ready for a lunch date 4 8 - Perfume, adds an orange blossom twist, Solinotes. 5 9 - Sunglasses, an easy pairing with any outfit, 11 - Bag, a chic and compact companion Boucheron. for your evening out, Miu Miu.

10 - Bracelet, brings a fun touch, 12 - Palette, the colors to bring out Aurélie Bidermann. your eyes, Chanel.

13 - Silk Mitzah scarf, personalizes any handbag, Dior.

10:34 AM 14 - Pumps, for cocktails, Maple. Settling in

76 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 77 MOODS Styles & Essentials THE BEACH SUNSEEKER

When you want to make the most of the beach, don't forget to pack these stylish must-haves. 1 4 11:05 AM Headed out for some sea, 2 sun and sand

1 - Handbag, a timeless piece that can be 17 paired with most outfits, Fendi.

2 - Natal Real candle, for recreating a little bit of home in your hotel room, Granado.

3 - Slippers, comfortable and stylish, they lift the plainest of looks, Eres. 13

Carry-on suitcase, the lightest of feminine 4 - 6 touches to your luggage, Globetrotter.

5 - Multicolored beach dress, an easy 7 and light addition to keep handy on vacation, 5 14 18 Eres . 12 15 6 - Blue dress, channeling plenty of beach 11 vacation spirit, Michael Kors.

7 - Ultravid binoculars, to get a better look at the sights, Leica. 8 16 8 - Cajueiro perfume, for a spritz inspired 10 by Brazil in a bottle, Phebo x Isolda.

9 - Sandals, the perfect shoe for strolling around town or post-beach cocktails, Eres. 3 9 14 - Sunglasses, for a vintage twist, Cartier. 10 - Castanha do Brasil body scrub, to keep your skin in top condition, Granado. 15 - Beach tote, for carrying all your beach wares, Valentino. 11 - Bikini pouch, handy for keeping tops and bottoms together, Eres. 16 - Sandals, comfortable but stylish, Eres.

12 - Towel, the essential beach item, 17 - Kate hat, sleek meets relaxed with Cap d’Arsene. 9:26 AM this black-and-white hat, Maison Michel. 13 - Bum Bum Sol Oil sunscreen, Getting ready for 18 - Sarong, ideal for the beach, Dior. for a sun-kissed look, Sol de Janeiro. a day at the beach

78 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 79 COMMUNITY Fairmont Hotels & Resorts Around the World

NORTH AMERICA AND CARIBBEAN New York The Plaza, A Fairmont Managed Hotel MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA Pittsburgh Fairmont Pittsburgh BARBADOS San Diego Fairmont Grand Del Mar EGYPT KEEP IN TOUCH Barbados Fairmont Royal Pavilion San Francisco Fairmont Heritage Place, Ghirardelli Square Cairo Fairmont Nile City Share your Fairmont memories San Francisco Fairmont San Francisco @FairmontHotels BERMUDA San Jose Fairmont San Jose JORDAN #FairmontHotels Hamilton Hamilton Princess & Beach Club, Santa Monica Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows Amman Fairmont Amman A Fairmont Managed Hotel Scottsdale Fairmont Scottsdale Princess INDONESIA Southampton Fairmont Southampton Seattle Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle KENYA Bali Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali Sonoma Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa Masai Mara Fairmont Mara Safari Club Jakarta Fairmont Jakarta CANADA Telluride Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge Mount Kenya Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club Banff Fairmont Banff Springs Washington Fairmont Washington, D.C., Georgetow Nairobi Fairmont The Norfolk MALDIVES Calgary Fairmont Palliser Maldives Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi Charlevoix Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu MOROCCO Edmonton Fairmont Hotel Macdonald SOUTH AMERICA Marrakech Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech PHILIPPINES Jasper Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge Manila Fairmont Makati Lake Louise Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise BRAZIL SAUDI ARABIA Montebello Fairmont Le Château Montebello Rio de Janeiro Fairmont Rio de Janeiro Copacabana Makkah Makkah Clock Royal Tower, A Fairmont Hotel SINGAPORE Montreal Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth Riyadh Fairmont Riyadh, Business Gate Singapore Fairmont Singapore Mont Tremblant Fairmont Tremblant Ottawa Fairmont Château Laurier EUROPE SOUTH AFRICA Quebec City Fairmont Le Château Frontenac Zimbali Fairmont Zimbali Resort OPENING SOON Toronto Fairmont Royal York AZERBAIJAN Vancouver Fairmont Hotel Vancouver Baku Fairmont Baku, Flame Towers UNITED ARAB EMIRATES CHINA Vancouver Fairmont Pacific Rim Abu Dhabi Fairmont Bab Al Bahr Guiyang Fairmont Guiyang Vancouver Fairmont Vancouver Airport GERMANY Ajman Fairmont Ajman Vancouver Fairmont Waterfront Hamburg Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Dubai Fairmont Dubai CZECH REPUBLIC Victoria Fairmont Empress Dubai Fairmont The Palm Prague Golden Prague Hotel, Managed by Fairmont Whistler Fairmont Chateau Whistler MONACO Fujairah Fairmont Fujairah Beach Resort Winnipeg Fairmont Winnipeg Monte Carlo Fairmont Monte Carlo MOROCCO Taghazout Bay Fairmont Taghazout Bay MEXICO SPAIN ASIA Rabat Fairmont La Marina Rabat-Salé Acapulco Fairmont Heritage Place, Acapulco Diamante Barcelona Fairmont Rey Juan Carlos I, Barcelona Riviera Maya Fairmont Heritage Place, Mayakoba CHINA RUSSIA Riviera Maya Fairmont Mayakoba SWITZERLAND Beijing Fairmont Beijing Moscow Fairmont Mayakovskaya Geneva Fairmont Grand Hotel Geneva Chengdu Fairmont Chengdu PUERTO RICO Montreux Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Kunshan Fairmont Yangcheng Lake SOUTH KOREA San Juan Fairmont El San Juan Hotel Nanjing Fairmont Nanjing Seoul Fairmont Seoul TURKEY Shanghai Fairmont Peace Hotel UNITED STATES Istanbul Fairmont Quasar Istanbul Wuhan Fairmont Wuhan UNITED KINGDOM Austin Fairmont Austin Windsor Fairmont Windsor Park Berkeley Claremont Club & Spa, A Fairmont Hotel UNITED KINGDOM INDIA Boston Fairmont Copley Plaza London The Savoy, A Fairmont Managed Hotel Jaipur Fairmont Jaipur UNITED STATES Chicago Fairmont Chicago, Millennium Park St Andrews Fairmont St Andrews, Scotland Los Angeles Fairmont Century Plaza Dallas Fairmont Dallas Hawaii Fairmont Orchid UKRAINE

Maui Fairmont Kea Lani Kiev Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv FRONTENAC. LE CHÂTEAU FAIRMONT ISTANBUL, QUASAR FAIRMONT PHOTOS: FEN FUSHI. MALDIVES SIRRU RESORT,FAIRMONT BEACH FUJAIRAH FAIRMONT PHOTOS:

Fairmont Quasar Istanbul Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi Fairmont Chengdu Fairmont Grand Del Mar Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth Fairmont Fujairah Beach Resort Fairmont Le Château Frontenac Fairmont The Plaza

80 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 81 MILESTONES Icons & Stories from Fairmont The FAIRMONT CENTURY PLAZA RESIDENCES FEATURE SINGLE-STORY and TOWNHOUSE HOMES DESIGNED by YABU PUSHELBERG with a DEDICATED OWNER SERVICES TEAM, 24-HOUR CONCIERGE, DOORMEN and SECURITY.

The FAIRMONT CENTURY PLAZA RESIDENCES PROVIDE LUXURY FULL SERVICE LIVING with ACCESS to FAIRMONT HOTEL’S 5-STAR AMENITIES.

Fairmont residents will enjoy access to all of the hotel’s amenities including the rooftop pool andspa, as well as a resident-only concierge floor, private dining, fitness, and library lounge.

Residents are also invited to join the Accor Owner Benefits Program which offers exclusive access when travelling globally as a Diamond Status member.

Sales Gallery by Appointment Only +1.310.246.4777 FairmontCenturyPlaza.com

Frank Sinatra and his wife, actress Mia Farrow, as they arrive at Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball.

HIGH SOCIETY In 1966, at the height of his success, American novelist and playwright Truman Capote hosted a masked ball at The Plaza. An invitation to this event was a status symbol among Manhattan’s high society. On the night, 540 of Capote’s guests flocked to the hotel’s candlelit ballroom. Andy Warhol and Mia Farrow, on the arm of Frank

All images are artist renderings for illustration purposes only and are not indicative of the actual and/or final finishes which will be contained within the project and the residences. No federal agency Sinatra, were among the attending A-listers. And as Lauren Bacall waltzed across the dance floor, 450 bottles has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. Nothing contained herein shall be construed as an offer to sell or a solicitation to buy in any state where prior registration is required. Prices, of Champagne popped and flowed well into the small hours. The party was the talk of the town, going down in history plans, products and availability are subject to change without notice. Availability of certain amenities is not assured, and may require a separate agreement and payment of additional fees. The developer as a night to remember—often copied, but never recreated. reserves the right to make modifications in materials, specifications, plans, pricing, various fees, designs, scheduling and delivery of the residences without prior notice. Exclusive sales and marketing: Next

Century Realty, Inc., BRE # 02028123. Equal Housing Opportunity. For complete disclaimer and other legal notices please visit: www.TheCenturyPlaza.com/legal Creative by DBOX / GETTY IMAGES. BETTMANN PHOTO: Fairmont Magazine 83 MILESTONES Icons & Stories from Fairmont Star Struck With a long line of A-list guests, from Winston Churchill to the award-winning Hollywood actor William Holden, this Safari Club has been on the stars’ inside track since its 1959 debut.

et in a hundred acres of landscaped Silent film star Mary Pickford, gets a helping hand from William Holden as she steps from Sgardens with Mount Kenya as its a light plane at Nairobi's Wilson Airport. spectacular backdrop, Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club has long been sought out by the rich and famous as a private and exclusive retreat. But while the hotel celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2019, its rich and romantic history actually dates back to a 1930s love affair between the charismatic American Rhoda Lewinsohn and adventurous French bachelor Gabriel Prudhomme.

After falling madly in love during Rhoda’s Kenyan safari trip, the pair planned to build a property where they would start their new life together, choosing the foot of Mount Kenya and its magnificent views as the setting. Unfortunately for Rhoda and Gabriel, their love affair didn’t last, and their former home was later bought and turned into an inn. It is shortly after, in 1959, that the hotel’s story begins. Like Rhoda before him, actor William Holden also fell in love during a safari trip, becoming so enamored with the property that he decided to buy it, turning it into the exclusive Mount Kenya Safari Club. The Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club sits on The new address quickly attracted a roll call a lake in 100 acres of landscaped gardens. of famous figures and stars. Sir Winston Churchill was reported to have been a founding member, with Prince Bernhard of the Netherlands, Lord Louis Mountbatten, former US President Lyndon Johnson, Bob Hope and Bing Crosby Although guests can still spot the original also joining the Club. Here, guests could enjoy building, the property has been enhanced a luxurious and private retreat, with days spent over the years with a range of luxury amenities trout fishing, game watching and mountain climbing, in keeping with its reputation: comfortable or simply lazing by the pool. cottages with sunken baths, a golf course, tennis Now known as Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari courts, a swimming pool and sauna. Holden’s own Club, the property continues to provide a secluded favorite project was developing the 1,000-acre haven for many famous names. Catherine Deneuve, conservancy, home to more than 800 wild animals Liv Ullmann, Ali MacGraw and Joe Montana and now protected as part of the William Holden are just some of the stars who have sought out Foundation, set up by Stefanie Powers after the the hotel for relaxation and adventure by day, and actor’s death. The addition of two private villas to enjoy the Club’s renowned glamour by night, where and a new spa, complete with an open-air terrace it is said even “the insects dress for dinner.” to take in the fantastic views, not only marks the hotel’s landmark diamond anniversary, but The Signature Suite. ensures that its legacy as Kenya’s most glamorous retreat continues. PHOTO: BETTMANN / GETTY IMAGES. BETTMANN PHOTO: CLUB. SAFARI KENYA MOUNT © FAIRMONT PHOTO: 84 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 85 MILESTONES Icons & Stories from Fairmont

Fairmont Loves Film Sweet Obsession Landmark Celebrations Many of Fairmont’s iconic properties Fairmont has had a long love affair with Hollywood and the feeling is mutual, Fairmont hotels The day Escoffier invented the peach Melba at The Savoy. have been celebrating landmark anniversaries, with events to honor have appeared in over 250 feature films and series. the hotels’ rich histories while ushering ith fresh peaches resting delicately between smooth vanilla ice cream and sugared them into a new era of modern luxury. s an ode to this unrivaled connection, the Fairmont Loves Film program includes events and exhibitions all about W raspberries, it’s only natural that the decadent peach Melba has illustrious origins. Athe movies and their stars, which take place in hotels across the world. Discover a few shoots held within our walls. Its creation called for the zest of one the most influential chefs the world has ever seen, and it was cooked up in a legendary hotel.

FAIRMONT HOTEL VANCOUVER, VANCOUVER For its 80th birthday, “the Castle in the Sky” ushered in a new era of glamour with the completion of a four-year multiphase renovation, unveiling its new Fairmont Gold featuring the opening of 42 newly renovated guest rooms, a private lounge, dedicated FIFTY SHADES OF GREY RED THE FRENCH concierge team and first-class services. Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, Canada, 2015 Fairmont Royal York, Toronto, Canada, 2010 LIEUTENANT'S WOMAN Christian Grey (Jamie Dornan) romances A host of top Hollywood actors, Bruce Willis, The Savoy, London, UK, 1981 Anastasia Steele (Dakota Johnson) in the hotel’s Morgan Freeman, Helen Mirren and John In "The French Lieutenant’s Woman," a suite Art Deco-style Lieutenant Governor’s Suite Malkovich, spent two weeks filming the action- in The Savoy is the setting for Mike’s (Jeremy on the 14th floor. The pair also share their first comedy RED here. Irons) phone call to Anna (Meryl Streep), kiss in the hotel elevator. in which he declares his love for her.

FAIRMONT CHATEAU WHISTLER, WHISTLER Continuing its extensive renovation, Fairmont Chateau Whistler celebrated its 30-year anniversary with its Sweetest Suites renovation project, now offering Australian soprano Nellie Melba. guests new two-bedroom suites all enhanced with a modern Alpine décor, fireplaces and spa bathrooms.

This creamy, sweet dessert was the brainchild the Savoy Theatre’s operas. It was a hotspot of Auguste Escoffier, whoseGuide Culinaire still for the international elite, from Claude Monet influences all corners of the culinary world to to Katherine Hepburn. One such regular was this day. Born in 1846 to a working-class family Nellie Melba, an opera star whose stage name was in Nice, Escoffier dreamed of becoming a sculptor inspired by her home city of Melbourne, Australia. MIDNIGHT COWBOY VERTIGO RIVER OF NO RETURN from a young age, but his family had no choice but The tale goes that Melba gifted Escoffier tickets The Plaza, New York, USA, 1969 Fairmont San Francisco, USA, 1958 Fairmont Banff Springs, Canada, 1954 to have him work at his uncle’s restaurant. to see her in Wagner’s "Lohengrin", in which Joe Buck (Jon Voight) and Ratso (Dustin Alfred Hitchcock gave his favorite San Francisco Where Marilyn Monroe stayed while filming His talent, skill and savvy saw him quickly rise the stage design included a swan-shaped boat. Hoffman) strike a deal outside the hotel hotel a role in "Vertigo" as part of the backdrop "River of No Return." According to hotel legend, up through the ranks, becoming a head chef Moved by the performance, Escoffier presented FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU, in a scene which lasts only a minute but to the scene where Scottie (James Stewart) after Monroe sprained her ankle, the bellmen in Paris at just 27 years old and later making his way Melba with a silver timbale of peaches and ice cream CHARLEVOIX took around four hours to shoot. drives around the city. would draw straws hoping to be the lucky to the Savoy Hotel in London in 1889. over an ice sculpture of a swan. He initially called one to help her downstairs that morning. With a series of events ranging from musical The new luxury hotel was a leader the dish pêche au cygne (peach swan) and later performances in the lobby bar, to a dedicated in the industry – the first hotel in the city to be added the delicious raspberry sauce and named exhibition detailing its fascinating history, to monthly lit by electricity – and was created to lodge it after its muse. surprise offers, Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu has triumphantly celebrated its 120th anniversary in 2019. the tourists who came from far and wide to see PHOTOS: FCOLLECTION CHRISTOPHEL, COLLECTION CHRISTOPHEL, EVERETT COLLECTION / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES, EVERETT EVERETT / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES, EVERETT COLLECTION CHRISTOPHEL, COLLECTION CHRISTOPHEL, FCOLLECTION PHOTOS: / RNB. CHRISTOPHEL COLLECTION / GETTY SCREEN COLLECTION IMAGES, SILVER / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES, COLLECTION VANCOUVER. HOTEL © FAIRMONT WHISTLER CHÂTEAU © FAIRMONT MELBA) (PEACH MEDIA VIA GETTY IMAGES FAIRFAX PHOTOS: 86 Fairmont Magazine Fairmont Magazine 87 MILESTONES Icons & Stories from Fairmont Literati Love Affair Twain and Fleming at the Hamilton Princess. Affectionately called “The Pink Palace” by Bermudians, Fairmont’s very first hotel, Hamilton Princess & Beach Club, ushered in a new era on the island when it auspiciously opened its doors on January 1, 1885.

The pink exterior of the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club, A Fairmont Managed Hotel

Built to attract Americans in search of winter hotel’s shady verandas with a cigar or pipe, sun, the Hamilton Princess was considered signing autographs and reciting poetry. Years a gem of Bermuda from the moment it opened, later, Frances Hodgson Burnett paid a visit boasting rarely seen modern luxuries for its before publishing The Secret Garden in 1911, time, such as gas lighting and hot and cold leading to rumors that the garden was hidden running water. away somewhere on the island. And that’s not all: As tourism grew on the island – boosted by Ian Fleming is also believed to have found a royal visit from none other than Princess Louise inspiration when he stayed at the hotel during (UK) two years prior – cruise liners began to offer WWII, using the fish tank-lined Gazebo Bar exclusive package tours from New York (now as a motif in Dr. No of the James Bond saga. just a two-hour flight away). Word soon spread In 1959, American shipping magnate Daniel about the laid-back luxury of what would be Ludwig bought the hotel, striking a deal which Bermuda’s landmark hotel. And soon enough, would also allow him to build another new luxury the high society of the US East Coast, along address in Bermuda, and so began the story of with wealthy holidaymakers and celebrities, Fairmont Southampton on the island’s south shore. began to make their way to “The Princess.” But The Pink Palace was not forgotten, undergoing The hotel formed a particularly strong a renovation and receiving a new wing and lounges. connection with the literary world. In fact, She remains one of the island’s many draws the famed American author Mark Twain was to this day, welcoming travelers from all four corners Samuel Clemens, aka Mark Twain, a regular, said to be often seen relaxing on the of the globe. aboard the Bermudian after a trip to Bermuda. PHOTOS: FAIRMONT HAMILTON PRINCESS, UNIVERSAL HISTORY ARCHIVE. PRINCESS,HISTORY UNIVERSAL HAMILTON FAIRMONT PHOTOS:

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5499_SP20_PoloAll_Fairmont_Hotel_Ad_9x10_875_in_V1.indd 1 15.01.20 16:40 THE X7

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