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AUGUST 29, 2004 VOL. I, NO. 19 efb| !#, @)^! aif{ !, c+s !( www.nation.com.np

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COVER: Gaurav Shrestha Business has been bad since the blockade www.nation.com.np COVER PHOTO: Sagar Shrestha 19 Angry Press By Ajit Baral The Nepali press is finally angry about Maoist murders 25 Leave The Teachers Alone By Sunil Pokhrel 161 teachers have been killed in the civil conflict 28 More Bite By John Narayan Parajuli The CIAA has become more proactive

BUSINESS COVER STORY 32 Charge It! 21 Gone To The Dogs By Indra Adhikari By John Narayan Parajuli More and more Nepalis are Big increases in the number of tourists visiting Nepal in recent months holding on to their plastic had buoyed spirits in the industry. After the bomb attack at the Soaltee, all money bets are off. INTERVIEW: Hotelier Yogendra Shakya ARTS & SOCIETY 34 Voices Together By Satish Jung Shahi COLUMNS PROFILE “Sathsath” is a radio magazine aired every Wednesday on Radio Sagarmatha FM 11 Catch Them Young 42 The River Guide 102.4. Its focus—street children By Satish Jung Shahi By Bandita Sijapati From a rafting guide to being an anti- dam activist, it’s been a long ride 36 It Pays To Learn Art By Ajit Baral 27 Law And Order Until the early 90s, artists had limited By Jogendra Ghimire LIFESTYLE choices

47 All That Jazz DEPARTMENTS 30 On Migration And By Aditya Adhikari Omar Of The Pacific Not many tourists come to Upstairs. 6 LETTERS By Swarnim Waglé This is natural, for it’s discoverable only 10 PICTURE OF THE WEEK through word of mouth. 14 CAPSULES 38 A Sovereign 16 BIZ BUZZ Summer SPORTS 17 MILESTONE By Samrat Upadhyay 50 Star Attraction 44 CITY PAGE By Sudesh Shrestha 52 SNAPSHOTS 40 Mobile Wherever U R As the first Nepali athlete to qualify for 56 KHULA MANCH: RAMACHANDRA GUHA the medal rounds in the Olympics, By Kunal Lama 57 MOVIES Sangina has already done enough 58 LAST WORD

5 Letters

You are guilty of “glorifying the violent Maoist movement ” NAVIN THAPA Massage parlors to invest in education for all or put KUNAL LAMA’S PIECE READS LIKE A people at the center of development, it thinly-veiled argument for promoting is going to be left with having to make Nepal as a sex tourist destination à la desperate choices: promoting sex as a Thailand (“Massage Parlors,” No Laugh- tourist industry, however obliquely; re- ing Matter, August 22). Note the dead ducing poverty by actually exporting giveaway: “The empty hours after col- poverty to Gulf countries, and even Iraq; lege and the raging hormones?” As if and having to forever treat guests like massage puts out the fire in the loins, Gods even when they are here to get you unless of course he means full-body and your country like all these smug- massage Thai style. glers (one Brit got away because even I think Lama is simply doing his bit our Supreme Court judges apparently to revive the Nepali tourism industry. mistook him for God), bio-pirates, One need not be a rocket scientist to pedophiles and “honey eaters.” Is any- know that sex sells. Besides there is no body listening? dearth of Nepali girls who wish to marry HARI SHANKAR ADHIKARI tourists, and no dearth of impoverished BALKHU parents who want to sell their daughters to the circus or sex industry. The cli- Media’s Maoist menace mate for this has never been better: ter- I AM SURPRISED THAT YOU WOULD ror in the hinterland, increase in the use pictures of young Maoists in number of orphans and the jobless, and Makwanpur who, in fact, boast that they the rise of consumerist society. are out to If Lama’s idea is to turn Nepal into a “ring” the brothel or a playground for the rich like Valley Thailand, I have nothing to say. Money (“Chokehold,” doesn’t talk; it swears, said a wise man. Conflict, August Put the freshest and youngest girls at the 22). Your intent service of 70-year-old foreigners. I have could well be to tell seen it all in South East Asia. Like he the readers how wrote: “When she is only 16 or 17, far disturbingly away from home, skills and education young the limited, and jobs hard to come, hey, Maoist soldiers would you say ‘no’ if: the money is good; are. But you the hours are decent; all the clients de- have also ended mand only one thing which, more or less, up glorifying comes so naturally to everyone .” their violent “Charitrahin chelis” will love you for movement, espousing this view. which owes However, my only qualm with a large bit Lama’s sex promotion is that it sounds of its suc- like the last pistol shot of a dying man. cess to By that I mean if Nepal consistently fails the un-

6 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly discerning media. Isn’t it all clear what everything else, dwindles with famil- they are up to—the Kathmandu block- iarity, and gives rise to a palpable de-

ade, bombs left and right, school clo- tachment. The “feeling,” then, is in- Nation Weekly, The Media House, Tripureshor, sures? variably momentary. Kathmandu, Nepal (Regd. 113/059-060). Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 Moreover, he says of the people of EDITOR: Akhilesh Upadhyay NAVIN THAPA Patan. “ it is they who possess the [email protected] HATTI BAN deepest connection to traditional cul- CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Suman Pradhan COPY EDITOR: John Child ture; it is they who have the most claim SENIOR STAFF WRITERS: Sushma Joshi, Satish Jung Shahi, Tiku Gauchan Proud Nepalis to the works on display.” Agreed. But STAFF WRITER: John Narayan Parajuli IT IS VERY REFRESHING TO BE ABLE having established that fact, does the PHOTOJOURNALISTS: Sagar Shrestha, Das Bahadur Maharjan DESIGNER: Raj Kumar Shrestha to read Nation Weekly here in Mary- writer still think the same people with EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS: Indra Adhikari, Yashas Vaidya

land. I read with relish Deepak Thapa’s “the deepest connection to traditional AD & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR: Krishna Shrestha “Nothing to Say” on the recently held culture” need placards to inform them OPERATING MANAGER: Ashish Bhattarai MARKETING EXECUTIVES: Sarita Gautam, Rameshwor Ghimire Miss Nepal pageant and quite agree with of their most cherished possessions, if, [email protected] SUBSCRIPTION OFFICER: Bipin Raj Ojha his views (A Little Word, August 22). indeed, they are the ones with genuine [email protected] Let’s take pride in being Nepalis, speak understanding of our culture, as the ASST. SUBSCRIPTION OFFICER: Jeshna Karmacharya DISTRIBUTION: Angiras Manandhar the language with perfection—to the essayist points out. MARKETING CONSULTANT: Kreepa Shrestha

envy of those who can’t speak it well Besides the tourists, it is the people CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Nripendra Karmacharya and work on improving our English like us, the ones educated in English PUBLISHER: The Mirror Media Pvt. Ltd skills too. Your paper is getting better medium that the placards are meant for. AD ENQUIRIES: Tel. 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 and the whole team deserves praise. Though I agree with the writer that COLOR SEPARATION: ScanPro, Pulchowk, 5548861, 5552335 there should “also” be Nepali placards, PRINTING: Variety Printing Press, 4278869 DISTRIBUTION: R.B. News, 4232784, 4244679 ROBIN SHARMA if that is what he implies, but it will Nation Weekly is published every Monday by The Mirror Media Pvt. Ltd. PHILIP MERRIL COLLEGE OF JOURNALISM serve a very small audience. It is un- All Rights Reserved. The reproduction of the contents of this publication, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND, U.S. wise to assume that the majority visit- prior consent of the publisher. ing the museum are deprived of basic Vol. I, No. 19. For the week August 23-29, 2004, released on August 23 Contradictory arguments English comprehension skills. And as CONTACT ADITYA ADHIKARI’S PIECE ON CUL- he himself hints, it is the other minor- ture made for a very interesting reading ity who seek greater understanding of www.nation.com.np (“Contours of Culture,” The Essay, Au- the museum artifacts. Even if the plac- gust 22). Well versed in both language ards were in Nepali, I doubt if many and analysis, the writer makes some very Patan residents would venture into We prefer to receive letters via e-mail, without pithy arguments. Patan Museum. Much like their rou- attachments. Writers should disclose any connection I have reservations about some of the tine lives, the museums too are taken or relationship with the subject of their comments. All letters must include an address and daytime and points he makes though. He says, “His for granted, the house next door, a part evening phone numbers. We reserve the right to edit education [with English education] has of their lives; so close, it needs no vis- letters for clarity and space. not even taught him appreciation of iting. E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 4216281 these works [the cultural artifacts in English is second nature to many Mail: Nation Weekly Kathmandu]; his soul has no need of urbanites. The hurdles erected by deep The Media House, GPO 8975, EPC 5620 them.” However, a little further in the cultural chasms in Nepali society in- Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal. essay he affirms, “Both [the feeling of clude language barriers, also manifested SUBSCRIPTION pride in one’s country and one’s reli- in the reluctance of the young Nepalis E-mail: [email protected] gious beliefs] have at their roots the to learn Nepali. Nepali language, Nation Weekly, The Media House, GPO 8975 EPC 5620, Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal same instinct, of self-affirmation by con- though indispensable to our national Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 nection to something larger than him- identity, is increasingly being sidelined Fax: 4216281 self, a sense of participating in a larger for the broader appeal of English. So it whole However, this feeling is mo- is for the representation of a part of mentary.” Nepali culture, and not much more, The two statements are contradic- that the placard should also be in tory. Doesn’t “a sense of participating Nepali. in a larger whole” have holistic conno- The writer’s insights are potent and tations, and if so, and how can his soul thought provoking though, apt to the refrain from appreciation of true cultural discourse he has ventured subscription beauty? He also points out that this upon. More such articles are expected feeling is momentary, but again, isn’t of him. [email protected] that the case with most artifacts? How- ever profound, or deep rooted in the BISWAS BARAL 2111102 culture, the appreciation of art, like RATOPUL nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 7 ... democracy is

only of use there that it may POLITICS Of the

pass on and come to SPORTS

its flower and fruit in manners

in the highest forms of interaction ARTS & SOCIETY

between people and

their beliefs OPINION For the DEVELOPMENT — in religion, literature,

colleges and schools —

EDUCATION democracy in all public

and private life.

CIVIL CONFLICT Walt Whitman

BUSINESS By the PEACE OR POLLS||| BONDING WITH NEPAL EVEREST DISPUTE THE TAXI DRIVER

AUGUST 15, 2004 VOL. I, NO. 17 www.nation.com.np

PopleRS. 30 ISSN 1811-721X Pe ple

TEACHERS IN CONFLICT||| PLASTIC MONEY ALL THAT JAZZ CIAA DOES IT AGAIN

AUGUST 29, 2004 VOL. I, NO. 19 efb| !#, @)^! aif{ !, c+s !( www.nation.com.np

TOURISM SLUMP?

RS. 30 ISSN 1811-721X Peopl BLOCKADE

THE NOTION of nationhood.

www.nation.com.np Picture of the Week

PEACE: A nationwide signature campaign started in Kathmandu last week, calling on both the government and the Maoists to announce an immediate ceasefire and resolve their differences through talks

nation weekly/Sagar Shrestha Guest Column Catch Them Young

As young as the Maoist child-soldiers are, the way they have been mobilized makes them the best weapons anyone could have

BY BANDITA SIJAPATI One of my questions to Neupane was how he justified the Maoist strategy that only seems to hurt innocent civilians—closure of schools, t was a long and hard walk of about eight hours along the riverbed off destruction of school buildings and abduction of teachers and students. Ithe Prithvi Highway from Malekhu. More than the physical exertion, it “We do not take these measures out of pleasure,” he said. “Rather, we was the idea that I was in the middle of nowhere with two young are always left with no other option.” He insisted that it was only after Maoists—16 and 17-year-olds, carrying socket bombs in pouches— their announcement of indefinite closure of schools that the government that was making my journey difficult. The reporter accompanying me had took back the label of terrorists slapped on the ANNISU-R students, who, walked on ahead and was nowhere to be seen. All I could see around I was told, never carry any weapons. me was the rough trail, the river and the intimidating Mahabharat range. There may be a shortage of manpower or firepower among the The only human souls: these two boys. I did not know whom I was Maoists, but they certainly have one element aplenty—commitment. meeting. The only information I had was that arrangements had been Young Comrade Mausam, a 15-year-old school student who had joined made for me to meet with a ranking Maoist leader. the militia a few months ago, boasted, “We complete our training in five When I finally reached my destination, I was escorted to a house days while it would take the Army four months. And you know, didi, it is where I saw four more of the “soldiers”—all of them terribly young. In the because we are committed to our cause.” beginning, I thought they were children from the village. Only later did I When I teased him that the gun he was carrying was probably longer realize that they were part of the militia. Then I was introduced to a than him, he said proudly, “If one does not have any courage then even bearded man, who was busy reading newspapers that we had picked up a gun cannot do much. But if one has the courage then even a small on our way and which the journalist with me had already handed over to child can cause immense damage.” him. He shook hands with me and introduced himself. I had set out with Comrade Sangharsh, 17, added, “It is necessary to have an ideol- the aim of meeting someone senior in the ogy behind the weapon. In fact, both are Maoist-affiliated All Nepal National Independent equally important. If there is only ideology, Students’ Union-Revolutionary, the ANNISU-R, one will be like CPN-UML or Nepali Con- in connection with my research on student poli- gress. However, if there is only weapon and tics. I was quite taken aback to find Lekhnath no ideology, one will be a terrorist.” Neupane, the president of the revolutionary Young as these children may be, the way outfit, in front of me. that they have been mobilized surely made There were two others with Neupane—Yubraj me realize that they are the best weapons Ghimire, a central committee member of the that anyone could have. The Army may claim ANNISU-R, and Surya Kiran, Yuddha to have demobilized the Maoists’ “ring” Sambadata (war reporter), for Janaadesh, the around the Valley, but the kind of dedication underground Maoist weekly. The first thing that these children showed made it clear that it struck me was that a senior leader like Lekhnath will take a lot more to subdue them com- Neupane had only six kids to guard him—five pletely. with socket bombs carried in improvised pouches The intent behind the present blockade tied around their waists while the sixth was armed of the Valley by the Maoists is to press the with a pistol. Using children as messengers is a government to create a favorable environ- widely used tactic in guerilla warfare because ment for negotiations, as Neupane told me. they can move around without raising suspi- The government and the Army may feel cion. But in this case, the children were guard- smug that the Maoists are desperate right ing a rather senior leader. They claimed to be now for some sort of breakthrough. But the between 14 and 18 years of age. To me, they irony is that it does not take much for the looked no more than 12. Maoists to demonstrate their reach. A couple I had been trying desperately to find the Maoist students. Without of bomb blasts at Soaltee Crowne Plaza, and the hotel along with a getting their views, my research would be quite incomplete. But when I dozen businesses pull down their shutters in panic. It is no secret that was face to face with Neupane I did wonder why he had agreed to neither side can completely overpower the other. But it is these points of meet me at all. As I found out later, the revolutionary students do not weakness that should automatically provide an opportunity for success- have direct access to the media and they thought the meeting would ful negotiations. be mutually beneficial since I could act as a channel to reach out to the (Sijapati is a Ph.D. student at Syracuse University in the U.S. She is public. researching politics in Nepal’s higher education.) nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 11 Comfortable, Safe &R eliable

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Shrestha said the closure would Labor Raghuji Pant, who was result in loss of employment for earlier directed by the apex thousands of Nepalis, and a daily court to let the employment loss of Rs. 500 million for busi- agency decide on the selection. nesses and estimated loss of rev- The company had already sent enue of over Rs. 10 million for hundreds of workers to Korea the government. The Maoist- when the ruling came, accord- aligned All Nepal Trade Union ing to a news report. Federation-Revolutionary has called for an indefinite closure of Border check the businesses. Nepal and India have started “joint search operations” along Refugee issue the border to check possible The UNHCR chief in Nepal, movement of Maoist HOLY DAY: Devotees and revelers gather at Naag Pokhari, Naxal on the Abraham Abraham, has asked rebels. The patrolling areas in- occasion of Naag Panchami Nepal and Bhutan to find a quick clude parts of Rupandehi, Blockade on Valley Nepal should opt for interna- solution to the refugee stalemate. Kapilvastu and Nawalparasi in The Kathmandu Valley has re- tional mediation, if the present The UNHCR expressed concern Nepal, and Maharajgunj, mained virtually cut off from the crisis cannot be resolved inter- that many of the refugee families Siddarthanagar and Balarampur rest of the country since last nally. He argued that if Nepal face separation as a result of the in the Indian state of Uttar Wednesday due to the indefinite can take help from the interna- refugee categorization, which Pradesh. The joint operation highway blockade called by the tional community for develop- decides which of the refugees can will focus on preventing the Maoist-affiliated student orga- ment, in procuring weapons and head back home to Bhutan. smuggling of arms into Nepal. nization and trade union. The training its armed forces to fight Abraham ruled out rumors that Maoist-affiliated organizations the Maoists, it can very well do UNHCR was withdrawing its Bus accidents have blocked the traffic from so to restore peace in the coun- support for the camps but con- Six people died in a bus acci- Naubise to Charaudi on the try. The United Nations could firmed that by the end of 2005, dent in the Mahendra Rajmarg Prithivi Rajmarg and from be helpful not only in resolving the U.N. refugee agency would at Gagankhola, Siraha. The bus Nagdhunga to Hetauda on the the crisis but also in the after- cut down facilities for the refu- was headed for Kathmandu Tribhuwan Rajmarg. The math, he said. gees and train them to become from Ilam. Twenty-one others Maoists have been demanding self-reliant instead. were injured. In a separate acci- that the whereabouts of their FNCCI request dent, at least seven people were missing student and trade union Federation of Nepalese Cham- Lottery says SC killed and more than 24 injured leaders be made known. The bers of Commerce and Industry The Supreme Court ordered when a bus leaving Kathmandu prices of fresh vegetables and called on the pro-Maoist trade Lumbini Overseas to select em- for Hetauda plunged into the groceries have gone up by more union to withdraw its call to ployees for South Korea through Trishuli in Chitwan. There were than 50 percent in Kathmandu. close down 12 major businesses lottery, as demanded by the gov- 45 passengers on board and In a related development, the In- in Kathmandu. President of ernment. The ruling came as a many of them were reported dian National Security Adviser FNCCI Binod Bahadur hollow victory for Minister of missing. JN Dixit convened a meeting of top Indian defense officials to discuss a contingency plan on with the Maoists. The govern- Mohsin said the government airdropping supplies to “be- Brave face ment will also speed up payments was working on a “white pa- sieged” Kathmandu. India has he government put up a that are due for vehicles damaged per” that will provide details of consulted Nepal on the issue of brave face before the by the Maoists during bandas. Maoist damages since 1996. relief. Kathmandu reportedly Tmedia in admitting that has told New Delhi that its stock the peace talks with Maoists of essential commodities will last hadn’t made much headway. for 28 days and petroleum prod- The Cabinet spokesman ucts for 15 days. The capital has Mohammed Mohsin said the enough wheat and rice to last government had established the till October, the Business Stan- high-level Peace Committee but dard reported. no assurances had come from the Maoists that they would recip- U.N. help rocate the gesture. The govern- The assistant general secretary of ment said it would investigate the United Nations, Kul disappearances of trade union Chandra Gautam, has said that activists and students affiliated

14 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Abductions in Iraq government’s advertisement gency is believed to be the prime 2000. Nepal is said to be doing Islamic militants in Iraq have policy. It will furnish its recom- agenda for the visit. Deuba will the necessary groundwork to fi- kidnapped 12 Nepalis. The mendations within a month. hold talks with his Indian coun- nalize the treaty. Most Nepalis militants have accused Minister Mohsin has refuted terpart Man Mohan Singh and imprisoned in Thailand are Nepalis of helping the United media reports that the govern- meet President Abdul Kalam and charged with drug trafficking. States, AFP reported. The ment had granted permission to leader of the ruling alliance, The majority of them have been news, however, is yet to be the Royal Nepal Army to open Sonia Gandhi. This is Deuba’s made scapegoats by drug deal- verified independently. The a commercial bank. first official visit to India since ers, the paper said. The inmates captives were affiliated with a his appointment as prime min- have requested the government Nepali company, said a state- U.S. visas ister on June 2. Deuba met his of Nepal to transfer them to ment signed by the Army of The U.S. Embassy has intro- Indian counterpart in Thailand Nepali jails. Four Nepalis have Ansar al-Sunna. It did not say duced a new visa processing last month during the died in Thai prisons in the last where the 12 were abducted system that requires electronic BIMSTEC summit. 18 years. from, but the group promised scanning of fingerprints for visa to publish their pictures applicants. The system took ef- Prospect of polls Soaltee blasts shortly “so that they will serve fect from July 15. The new sys- Keshav Raj Rajbhandari, the Maoists hurled four bombs into as a lesson to others.” A senior tem was brought into practice chief election commissioner, said the compounds of the Soaltee government official in to help legitimate travel to the that the commission was ready Crowne Plaza. All the bombs Kathmandu told Nation United States and to maintain to hold elections if the govern- were hurled into the tennis Weekly that the government the integrity and security of ment guarantees security during court of the hotel. Still, the ho- had no knowledge of the ab- the United States and its bor- polls. This he said in a meeting tel management pulled down duction. “As a matter of fact, we ders, the embassy said. The with leaders from 20 smaller par- the shutters a day after the haven’t issued visas to any embassy believes that the bio- ties registered in the Election blasts. It said that the hotel Nepalis to travel to, or work in, metric processing will help Commission. The parties, on the would be closed for an indefi- Iraq,” he said. That, however, identify genuine travelers and other hand, have expressed nite period. The hotel, associ- hasn’t stopped hundreds of make it easier to replace travel doubts about the possibility of ated with Britain’s Interconti- Nepalis from entering into Iraq documents when they are lost free and fair elections given the nental Hotels Group, had until through Jordan, Oman and Ku- or stolen. country’s poor security situa- then defied Maoist calls for a wait. This is the second kidnap- tion. shutdown. The blast has been ping incident in Iraq involving India visit widely condemned. The Indus- Nepalis, according to news re- Prime Minister Deuba will dis- Nepali prisoners trial Security Group, compris- ports. In April, a Nepali was re- cuss the growing crisis in Nepal Seventy Nepalis are reportedly ing representatives of the em- leased after four days in the cus- with Indian authorities during stuck in Thai jails in the absence bassies of Britain, France, Ger- tody of a militant group. his official five-day visit to New of an extradition treaty between many and the United States and Delhi starting on September 8. Nepal and Thailand. According their bilateral chambers of com- Koirala’s refusal The current political and secu- to The Rising Nepal, the Thai merce, met the prime minister Nepali Congress President Girija rity situation in Nepal and the government had asked Nepal to and demanded adequate secu- Prasad Koirala has rejected Prime problems posed by the insur- finalize an extradition treaty in rity. Minister Deuba’s request to join the Peace Committee. Koirala said that he would support the committee from outside. The government formed the high- level Peace Committee compris- ing top leaders of major political parties in the coalition govern- ment early this month.

Paper committee The government formed a committee to review the prob- lems faced by newspapers. The committee, led by Minister for Information and Communica- tions Mohammed Mohsin will review the existing state of the Nepali media including the nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 15 Biz Buzz

MARLBORO 10’S both Birgunj outlets. The branch at dry port will TOURISM IN KOLKATA Marlboro cigarettes are now available in a flip- be fully computerized and will offer the Anywhere The Royal Nepalese Consulate and the Nepal top ten pack in Nepal. Marlboro 10’s is avail- Branch Banking System, linking it with all the Tourism Board jointly organized a press con- able in two pack variations, Full Flavor and branches of the Valley and also with other ference in Kolkata to promote Nepali tourism Lights, and is priced at Rs. 38. Marlboro is branches in major cities of the country. in the Indian city on August 16. According to already available in Nepal in the Flip-top 20’s the Royal Nepalese Consulate-Kolkata, a large pack format, priced at Rs. 75. Marlboro hopes QATAR AIRWAYS CARGO number of journalists and media persons were that the introduction of the new pack in Nepal RECEIVES ISO CERTIFICATION present during the press conference. Royal will offer greater choice and convenience to Qatar Airways cargo division has received the Nepalese Consul General Yubaraj Bhusal ad- consumers in line with the wide availability of coveted certification of ISO 9001:2000 stan- dressed the press conference and said that the 10’s pack format in the Nepal market. dards from International Organization for Stan- tourism holds special importance in Nepal. He dardization. The certificate was awarded for highlighted the importance of Indian tourists to Qatar Airways Cargo’s exceptional capacity Nepali tourism. He also reminded media per- and steady growth in the fields of airfreight sons that Indian nationals don’t need visas to space sales, reservation and handling, which enter Nepal; a voter ID or passport is enough includes transportation by air, as well as deliv- to travel by air. The Nepal Tourism Board will ery to the consignee. According to Qatar Air- participate in the Travel & Tourism Fair-Kolkata, ways CEO Akbar Al Baker, the certificate “bet- which starts from August 19. ter equips the cargo division to offer its cus- tomers a focused service based on timely de- FREQUENT FLYER BY livery of consignments.” INDIAN AIRLINES The cargo section has seen an increase Indian Airlines recently announced the launch- in revenue of more than 50 per cent for the ing of a Frequent Flyer Program for the resi- last three years. For the financial year 2003/ dents of Nepal. One of the features of being a 2004 the growth figures are exceeding 77 frequent flyer will be the privilege of carrying per cent, which categorizes Qatar Airways 10 kilograms of excess baggage. In the pro- as one of the fastest growing cargo opera- gram, passengers earn mileage points when- tions in the world. ever they fly Indian Airlines, Alliance Air, Air NIC BANK REPORTS PROFIT India, Air France and other code sharing flights In a repeat of last year’s performance, Nepal BEAUTI & BOUTIKA 2004 like Lufthansa, Thai Airways , Singapore Air- Industrial and Commercial Bank recorded a Kathmandu Exhibitions is organizing an event lines, and Emirates. Mileage points could be 158 percent increase in net profit to Rs. 67 called Beauti & Boutika 2004 from September earned both on International flights and IA million based on a 51 percent growth in its 9 to 13 at the Birendra International Conven- Flights within India. After earning mileage points operating profit to Rs. 152 million in fiscal tion Center. The exhibition is aimed at creating passengers can redeem their miles for free year 2003-04. In the previous FY the bank awareness on the use of new cosmetic prod- tickets to over 300 destinations across India had registered a 50 percent growth in its op- ucts. The event will help cosmetic goods busi- and around the world. Services include tele- erating profit and 271 percent growth in net nesses market their products. There will be 28 check in, separate counters at metro airports profit. NIC Bank had a Capital Adequacy different stalls at the venue, and organizers are and priority confirmation on wait-list tickets, Ratio of almost 14 percent at the year-end, expecting over 25,000 visitors during the event. among others. as against 11 percent stipulated by Nepal Rastra Bank, signifying adequate safety and security. The Bank’s gross non-performing loans rate is 3.9 percent, falling within inter- national norms. EBL OPENS AT BIRGUNJ DRY PORT Everest Bank Limited has opened a branch at the Birgunj dry port, its fifteenth in the country. The bank has signed an accord with Nepal Rastra Bank that gives it the authority to collect customs duty and other government revenues at the dry port. It is also in the process of opening its extension counter at the customs point in Birgunj. The banks says that it is committed to providing most efficient and professional services to the importers and exporters at its branch at

16 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Milestone Yeti Airlines Murdered Proposed Revised Flight Schedule (Covering remote sectors) Effective from 25 JUN-15 SEP’04 Dekendra Raj Thapa, 34, a Radio Nepal re- porter, was killed by the Maoists on August 11 in Dailekh. Thapa was in the Maoist custody From To Flight Days of Dep. Arr. Rupee Dollar Remarks since he was kidnapped on June 26. The N1o. Operation Time Time Tariff Tariff Maoist “Jan Sarkar” had labeled 10 charges One way One way against Thapa, the prime one being that he Kathmandu Lukla YA 111 Daily 0630 0705 1665 91 DHC-6/300 was a government spy. None of the charges Lukla YA 101 Daily 0635 0710 1665 91 DHC-6/300 were well-founded. Thapa ran into trouble with Lukla YA107 Daily 0810 0845 1665 91 DHC-6/300 Lukla YA113 1,2,3,4,5,7 0815 0850 1665 91 DHC-6/300 the Maoists when he asked them to return Rumjatar YA 221 2,4,7 0950 1025 1245 61 DHC-6/300 construction materials gathered for a local drink- Phaplu YA 181 1,3,5 0955 1030 1480 85 DHC-6/300 ing water project he was heading. Manang YA 601 6 0815 0915 2995 122 DHC-6/300 Thapa was also an active human rights ac- Simara YA 147 Daily 1135 1200 970 55 DHC-6/300 Simara YA 141 Daily 1300 1325 970 55 DHC-6/300 tivist. He was an advisor to the Human Rights Simara YA 143 Daily 1430 1455 970 55 DHC-6/300 and Peace Society. The Maoists began hound- Bharatpur YA 173 Daily 1115 1140 1160 61 DHC-6/300 ing Thapa since last year when he welcomed Bharatpur YA 175 Daily 1400 1425 1160 61 DHC-6/300 the King in Dailekh as a master of ceremony at Biratnagar YA 151 Daily 0700 0740 2585 85 SAAB 340B Biratnagar YA 153 Daily 1040 1120 2585 85 SAAB 340B a local function. The King was on a whirlwind Biratnagar YA 155 Daily 1620 1700 2585 85 SAAB 340B tour of the Mid West, which has traditionally Pokhara YA 131 Daily 0905 0930 1710 67 SAAB 340B been a Maoist stronghold. News reports say Pokhara YA 135 Daily 1530 1555 1710 67 SAAB 340B Thapa’s wife and three children—two daugh- Bhadrapur YA 121 Daily 1200 1250 2950 109 SAAB 340B Nepalgunj YA 177 Daily 1245 1345 3500 109 SAAB 340B ters and a son, the eldest daughter being seven Bhairahawa YA 163 Daily 1425 1500 2220 79 SAAB 340B years of age—are still in a state of shock. Hu- Biratnagar Kathmandu YA 152 Daily 0800 0840 2585 85 SAAB 340B man rights organizations and the Federation of Biratnagar Kathmandu YA 154 Daily 1140 1220 2585 85 SAAB 340B Nepalese Journalists (FNJ) have condemned Biratnagar Kathmandu YA 156 Daily 1720 1800 2585 85 SAAB 340B Pokhara Kathmandu YA 132 Daily 0950 1015 1710 67 SAAB 340B the killing. In a joint statement, FNJ, HURPES, Pokhara Kathmandu YA 136 Daily 1615 1640 1710 67 SAAB 340B INSEC, SAFMA, CEHURDES and HURON have Bhadrapur Kathmandu YA 122 Daily 1310 1400 2950 109 SAAB 340B called on the Maoists to issue a public apology Nepalgunj Kathmandu YA 178 Daily 1405 1505 3500 109 SAAB 340B and provide compensation to the victim’s fam- Bhairahawa Kathmandu YA 164 Daily 1520 1555 2220 79 SAAB 340B Lukla Kathmandu YA 112 Daily 0720 0755 1665 91 DHC-6/300 ily. FNJ organized nationwide protests against Kathmandu YA 102 Daily 0725 0800 1665 91 DHC-6/300 the killing. Journalists, artists and other profes- Kathmandu YA 108 Daily 0900 0935 1665 91 DHC-6/300 sional groups have held rallies in support of Kathmandu YA 114 1,2,3,4,5,7 0905 0940 1665 91 DHC-6/300 human rights and press freedom all over the Rumjatar Kathmandu YA 222 2,4,7 1040 1115 1245 79 DHC-6/300 Phaplu Kathmandu YA 1821,3,5 1045 1120 1480 85 DHC-6/300 country. Manang Kathmandu YA 6026 0930 1030 2995 122 DHC-6/300 According to the International Federation of Simara Kathmandu YA 148 Daily 1215 1240 970 55 DHC-6/300 Journalists (IFJ), last year alone as many as Simara Kathmandu YA142Daily 1340 1405 970 55 DHC-6/300 80 Nepali journalists were attacked, harassed, Simara Kathmandu YA144 Daily 1510 1535 970 55 DHC-6/300 Bharatpur Kathmandu YA 174 Daily 1155 1220 1160 61 DHC-6/300 arrested, detained or kidnapped by the gov- Bharatpur Kathmandu YA 176 Daily 1440 1505 1160 61 DHC-6/300 ernment and the Maoists. Some of them were Nepalgunj Dolpa YA 717 1 0630 0715 1315 85 DHC-6/300 killed. The Maoists have issued death threats Simikot YA 711 4 0630 0730 1800 96 DHC-6/300 against 10 other journalists. Dolpa Nepalgunj YA 718 1 0730 0815 1315 85 DHC-6/300 Simikot Nepalgunj YA 7124 0745 0845 1800 96 DHC-6/300 Surkhet Jumla YA 713 2 0705 0740 970 63 DHC-6/300 Rara YA 715 3 0705 0745 1800 96 DHC-6/300 Jumla Sutkhet YA 714 2 0755 0830 970 63 DHC-6/300 Rara Surkhet YA 716 3 0800 0845 1800 96 DHC-6/300

Monday 1, Tuesday 2, Wednesday 3, Thursday 4, Friday 5, Saturday 6, Sunday 7

n Subject to change without prior notice.

Corporate Office: Reservations: Tribhuvan Airport Office: Lazimpat, Kathmandu 4421215 (Hunt. Line) 4493901, 4493428 Ph. No. 4411912 (Hunt. Line) Fax: 977-1-4420766 Fax: 977-1-4420766 Email: [email protected] cybernepal.com.np nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 17 Conflict GHOST TOWNS

Business has been bad for four straight days—ever since the Maoist blockade of the capital began on Wednesday

Wednesday. “It’s is a rare sight to see neighboring hotels and restaurants had BY SATISH JUNG SHAHI IN NAUBISE kitchens in 30 odd hotels here so quiet,” gathered in his hotel. To make most of ARHARI (IDENTIFIED BY ONE he said. “They would be busy with their free time, they were playing cards name), who runs Hira Hotel & steaming dal bhat.” But there are no hun- and watching television. His stall had NLodge in Naubise, used to sleep gry bus passengers who dropped in for a nothing on display, not even the regular well when the highway was busy. The meal when buses to Kathmandu—either chana, aalu and chiura eateries like his in- noise of screeching vehicles all night from the Tribhuvan or Pritivi High- stantly offered customers the moment meant more people, safety and better way—stopped here before making an they sat down with their baggage. “It gets business too. Now the silence in the uphill journey through the hairpin bends scary around here when all you can now nearest highway town from Kathmandu to the capital. hear is dogs howling in the night,” he (25km away) haunts him, he said. “Hotels in Naubise would make up said. “Strange, never heard that noise Business has been bad for a record to Rs. 10,000-20,000 everyday,” said before.” four straight days—ever since the Maoist Narhari, who could offer us only soft The story of Binod Upreti who runs blockade of the capital began on drinks and biscuits. All his friends from a telephone booth in Naubise is just

18 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly about the same. “Buses ran around through the night,” said Upreti, who too had closed his shop and joined us to see how we would photograph children playing in front of three oil tankers parked on the deserted highway. These tankers were among those few that had actually dared to defy the Maoist ban in a bid to make it to Kathmandu. A truck loaded with passengers, and not cargo, was charging up to Rs. 30 for a ride till Mahadevbesi, a short ride down the road. No bus was in sight. “The number of incoming and out- going vehicles have almost doubled over the last three days,” said a security of- ficer in Thankot, the entry point to Kathmandu. “But the numbers are still far too negligible compared to normal days.” On a normal day, some 2,400 ve- hicles pass through the transit point— half of them incoming. On Saturday, Thankot recorded 277 ANGRY PRESS vehicles entering the Valley while some 500 departed between 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. On Thursday, only 82 vehicles came in and some 150 left the Valley. The Nepali press is finally angry about Maoist murders. “Our records show there has yet been no entry of vehicles bringing in food Too bad it took a tragedy so close to home to finally wake grains into Kathmandu,” said the secu- them up. rity officer. It means Kathmandu could be suffering from a massive food short- age in the coming weeks—a thesis Min- BY AJIT BARAL year the Maoists killed six. The murder ister of Supplies Ishwore Pokharel of Gyanendra Khadka in shrugged off during a press conference HE MAOISTS KILLED DAILEKH- Sindhupalchowk in September did draw on Friday. based Radio Nepal reporter some protests, but they were not wide- TDekendra Raj Thapa on August spread. Significantly, the current protests The government maintains it has made all “necessary arrangements” to 11. Thapa had been summoned by the have a different tone and tenor than be- keep supplies of essential commodities Maoists, supposedly to discuss a drink- fore. The difference may signal an im- into the Valley smooth. On our drive ing water project that he was managing portant shift in the way civil society now from Kathmandu to Naubise, we noticed for the local community. The reason views the Maoists. the heavy presence of security forces all given for his death: Spying against the Until recently, many Nepalis were along Prithivi Highway. Locals told us Maoists and speaking at a government- willing to give the Maoists the benefit the situation was the same beyond sponsored program organized to felici- of the doubt. The violence was distress- Naubise and Dhading, the area that has tate the King while he was on a visit to ing, but some of the rebels’ rhetoric been notorious for Maoist activities in the Midwest last year. struck a chord with ordinary people, and the recent months. Last Wednesday the Federation of there were still calls, including from the But like most people in Kathmandu Nepalese Journalists staged a rally at mainstream media, to listen to the we talked to, locals in the highway towns Ratna Park to protest the murder. More Maoists’ views. The media, at least, are like Naubise were hopeful the block- than 200 journalists, human rights activ- singing a different tune now. ade wouldn’t last long. ists and lawyers showed up. The presi- The day after the journalists’ protest “Something will happen in the next dent of the federation, Taranath Dahal, in Ratna Park, an editorial in Rajdhani few days,” said Narhari, while we said, “This is the first time that profes- took pains to remind the Maoists that boarded our motorcycle and paid for sional groups have come together to for- their movement would have gone un- the soft drinks. “Otherwise, we’ll have mally protest against human rights vio- noticed by the international community to survive by eating grass. We will run lations by the Maoists.” had it not been for the media. “India is out of food if this blockade contin- This certainly was not the first time also suffering from insurgencies of dif- ues.” that a journalist has been a victim. Last ferent sorts. But these insurgencies at nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 19 most get bite-sized space in Indian tray themselves as a political force that Federation of Journalists, the largest um- newspapers. In Nepal, however, stands in favor of talks, they should re- brella organization, called for action to Maoists have hogged big newspaper spect press freedom by seeking a pub- protect journalists in Nepal. “The con- space,” said the editorial. The leftist lic apology for the atrocity against a rep- tinuing crisis facing journalists and me- writer Khagendra Sangroula thinks that resentative of the media.” dia staff is a threat to democracy,” it said. Nepali journalists had gone a step be- The massive coverage of the protest In an open letter addressed to Maoist yond the Maoists, and have been publi- by the national dailies has rubbed off supremo Prachanda, Amnesty Interna- cizing the insurrection rather than just on human rights activists, lawyers and tional expressed concern over abduc- reporting it. He says, “Judging by the intellectuals outside the capital, and tions, killings and the blockade of editorials now, the media seems to have they have also picked up the protest. Kathmandu by the Maoists. It appealed made a volte-face in their treatment of There have been demonstrations in vari- to the Maoist leadership “to uphold [its] the Maoists.” ous districts, and NGOs have joined previous commitments to abide by the The about-face is almost universal, forces with the media. The Collective fundamental human rights standards and though it remains to be seen whether it Campaign for Peace and five other or- the Geneva Convention.” This, they say, will be a lasting trend. Almost all news- ganizations issued a joint press state- means complying with minimum hu- papers have now directed their wrath at ment on Wednesday, the day the news manitarian standards, including prohi- bitions on taking hos- tages and on summary executions. AND MORE: Another government office is Reporters Without bombed Borders also expressed shock and outrage over the murder of Thapa. “We are revolted by this barbaric murder,” it said. The Paris-based organization has put Maoist leader Prachanda in its worldwide list of 37 “predators of press freedom.” The Maoists may not be listening. They have gotten the media attention they wanted, enough to choke the capital with nothing more than a statement and to close major businesses with just a threat and a few small bangs. Why should they take advice from jour- nalists who have, mostly unwittingly, done as the rebels wanted? Media watchers say the Maoists’ killing spree. Kantipur and of Thapa’s death was splashed on the Nepali editors are finally realizing the ad- The Kathmandu Post carried front-page front pages. The statement condemned verse effects their enthusiastic and sensa- editorials last Thursday blasting the not just the killing but also death war- tionalized coverage of the violence and Maoists. Kantipur said that the attack rants issued by the Maoists to 10 jour- of the Maoists has had on people. “Civil on the media would harm people’s ac- nalists, including Harihar Singh society has always been openly opposed cess to information, and that it shows Rathore and Bed Prakash Timsina of to Maoist atrocities,” says Arjun Karki, that the Maoists are intent on destroy- Kantipur. president of the NGO Federation of ing the achievements of the 1990 Jana The anger has been felt beyond the Nepal. “The current outrage is a sign of Andolan. “If the Maoists want to por- national borders. The International media solidarity.” It’s about time.

20 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Cover Story GONE TO THETHE DOGSDOGS

Soaltee incident could have long-term Big increases in the number of tourists visit- negative impact on the tourism industry as a whole,” says Narendra Bajracharya, ing Nepal in recent months had buoyed president of Hotel Association of Nepal, better known as HAN. Government of- spirits in the industry. After the bomb attack ficials and tourism entrepreneurs are frantically trying to minimize the dam- at the Soaltee, all bets are off. age. “The Soaltee has gotten so much negative publicity that it will be diffi- cult to fully undo the damage,” says BY JOHN NARAYAN PARAJULI Other would-be participants in the meet Yogendra Shakya, a leading industrialist include Suchart Jaovisidha, the deputy and tourism entrepreneur. Even with the UST AS NEPAL’S BELEA prime minister of Thailand, and G. L. growth in tourist arrivals last year, the guered tourism industry Peiris, former minister of Sri Lanka. figures are barely half of 1999. was feeling optimistic after The Soaltee blasts have had no im- Nepal’s losing streak began at the end posting modest growth last mediate effect on other hotels, say tour- of 1999, the year tourism peaked with year, bad news has dimmed ism entrepreneurs, and that no large- close to half a million visitors. At the hopes of a revival. Maoists scale cancellations of bookings were re- time, officials and tourism entrepreneurs J ported. But the officials with Hotel As- were upbeat about doubling that figure last week hurled socket bombs into the compound of the Soaltee sociation of Nepal say it could affect in the years ahead. Then Islamic mili- Hotel, one of the countries best 5-star tourist arrivals in the future. “The tants hijacked an Indian Airlines flight properties. All 435 high-end tourists who were staying at the hotel at the time were whisked to safety and put up in other hotels. The Soaltee closed its gates. A high-profile international meet may have become a casu- alty. Soaltee was to play host to former Malaysian Prime Min- ister Mahathir Mohamad in the first week of September. The Malaysian leader, ironically, was supposed to provide point-

ers on high economic growth. nw/SS “We are not sure whether he will come and whether the meet will go ahead at all,” says a member of the Confederation of Nepalese Industries, orga- nizer of the two-day event. nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 21 Cover Story

from Kathmandu to Delhi on Decem- the number of Indian tourists and oth- But the worst yet to come. The Royal ber 24, 1999, which eventually landed in ers traveling via India. Massacre in 2001 drew international Kandhar, Afghanisthan. The coverage of In 2000 the Hrithik Roshan episode attention to Nepal, and suddenly the Nepal by the Indian media altered over the alleged anti-Nepal remarks by insurrection, which had received very Nepal’s image in the Indian public from the Bollywood actor caused riots in the little foreign media coverage until that of a regional tourist hub to a regional streets. Indian businesses were tar- then, became big news. With that in- terrorist hub. Indian Airlines cancelled geted which added insult to injury. The creased exposure, tourists who had all flights to and from Kathmandu for number of Indian tourists, more than previously had little reason to care some time, leading to a drastic drop in 30 percent of total arrivals, fell again. about the existence of Maoists rebels

BRAND LOYALTY: Some just keep coming back

22 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly in Nepal became fearful. For a time, the fact that tourists were not targeted ‘Tourists Are Still Coming’ seemed to reassure potential visitors. But the increasingly violent Maoist offensives after the massacre and the strong Army responses were all re- ported internationally. The chaos earned Nepal an image of a country bat- tling with violent internal conflict. nw/SS

epal’s tourism indus- so much negative publicity, we pancy rate is 20 percent. You Ntry is in crisis. have a strong and devoted cli- can’t generalize if a few hotels Yogendra Shakya, a ent base that loves Nepal and have 60-70 percent. hotelier and leading tourism is prepared to come here. entrepreneur, is an outspoken Do you think tourism would figure in Nepal’s business com- There are conflicting claims have gone up had we not nw/SS munity. He told Nation Weekly about the number of tourist had this insurgency and why tourism experts have little arrivals. The Nepal Tourism other setbacks? to contribute at the moment. Board statistics show a posi- I wonder if we could have been tive reading. What is the truth? successful in taking the arrival As a tourism entrepreneur It’s up from the bad years but numbers to one million. We how do you see the present down from the good ones. In could not have pushed up the state of tourism in Nepal? 1999 we had close to half a figure. We are silently using in- The state of tourism in Nepal million tourists. By 2002 it fell surgency as an excuse for our is in no way better than the down by more than 50 per- inefficiency. state of affairs [of the nation]. cent. Even during 1999 when The number of tourists com- we had the highest number of Why is that we haven’t been ing to Nepal has taken a tourists, the occupancy rates able to attract more high- nosedive. It’s not in the hands in hotels were just 50-60 per- end tourists? of tourism entrepreneurs to cent. It’s just the niche market we revive the sinking industry. It’s are catering to. We don’t have in the hands of other forces. So what is the ideal number any attractions for kids, who All tourism experts are redun- of tourists for Nepal? are the major deciders in any dant at the moment. We need at least one million family. People go to Disneyland tourists to get close to 100 because the kids want to go. What has been the reaction percent occupancy in our all of your clients to the recent hotels. Hoteliers have two What should we do to attract spate of violence targeting choices before them: increase more tourists? the tourism industry? tourists or decrease rooms. If we want to attract family va- Tourists are enquiring about cationers we have to honestly the incidents. Many are con- Many say hoteliers are do- revamp our packages. We cerned. In spite of whatever is ing well have to bring new excitement happening here in Nepal, there There are few hotels that are to our product. We must go for is a note of optimism that tour- doing well, but in totality it’s more mass-appeal packages ists are still coming. In spite of not good. The average occu- if we want more visitors. nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 23 Convincing tourists that Nepal was elers and groups are shying away.” Inde- tourists; they disagree sharply about hotel still safe despite the media footage of pendent travelers spend far less, Sherpa occupancy. shuttered shops, baton-wielding riot says, and stay at budget guesthouses. They Experts say arrival rates and occu- cops, stone throwing protestors outside often go trekking without the services pancy do not have a direct relationship. the Palace and plumes of smoke ema- of a guide. The numbers of visitors are “The number of arrivals is not directly nating from burning tires was not an easy up, but few tourism businesses are show- proportional to the occupancy,” says task. “The year 2001 was the worst year ing substantial revenue growth. “We’re Subhas Niroula, director at Nepal Tour- in Nepal’s tourism history,” says not attracting the right kinds of visitors,” ism Board. Part of the problem maybe Madhuja Acharya, executive secretary says Sherpa. that the occupancy figures do not include with the Travel Agents Association of Industry analysts agree that Nepali all of the least-expensive accommoda- Nepal. The figures show just how bad it tourism entrepreneurs have failed to look tions, where budget travelers stay. But was: In 2001 tourist arrival figures beyond the niche market that is tradition- the spat over just how bad the hotel oc- dropped by more than 50 percent, though ally Nepal’s “tourism vote-bank.” Tour- cupancy rate is and the widespread con- Nepal wasn’t alone. ism entrepreneur Shakya says, “We haven’t cern about failure to attract high-end trav- The terrorist attacks in the United been able to attract the family vacationers, elers may be irrelevant if the insurgency States in September 2001 and the bomb- especially the kids who are major deciders worsens and the negative media cover- ing in Bali in 2002 created panic across in family purchasing.” Even when there age continues. the globe and caused a worldwide tour- were half a million tourists holidaying in “We cannot take the Soaltee incident ism slump. Tourist arrivals here slumped Nepal, tourism entrepreneurs were full as an isolated case,” says HAN’s again in 2002, to about 216,000. By 2003 of complaints about revenue and low oc- Bajracharya. “It could happen to any one global tourism had recovered substan- cupancy rates. “We don’t have enough in- of us.” Such fears and pessimism run tially, and despite continuing negative frastructure to cater to the high-end tour- deep among tourism entrepreneurs. “All publicity, the country witnessed a healthy ists,” says Rabi Poudel, president of Nepal tourism experts are redundant at the growth of 23 percent in arrivals, to about Association of Travel Agents (NATA). moment,” says hotelier Shakya. “Revival 265,000. The number of Indian tourists While travel agents and hoteliers agree that of tourism is in the hands of other grew by 33 percent and arrivals from Nepal still lacks logistics to host high-end forces—not tourism entrepreneurs.” other countries close to 20 percent. Tour- ism entrepreneurs were encouraged by the growth, which came despite wors- From The Horse’s Mouth ening internal conflict. Then came a little turnaround. Tour- he explosions in ists hotspots like Ghandruk, which had Soaltee last week may been unaffected by the insurgency previ- T have shaken its man- ously, began to experience increasing in- agement and eventually cidence of Maoist extortions. Both busi- caused the closure of the nesses and tourists became the victims. industry’s flagship hotel. But Kathmandu too came under Maoist in- the tourists are unfazed and fluence: Small bombs and assassinations are seen walking carefree in were reported throughout the year. But and around Kathmandu. still the tourists came. Arrivals during the Even rumors about the block- first three months of this year grew by ade haven’t deterred them about half. The figures through July show from venturing out of town. a 45 percent increase in third country tour- Tourists who were in ists and 12 percent in Indian tourists, Kathmandu last week say compared to last year. “It’s up from the that they didn’t notice the explosions in the news. “I dia hype.” Both say many bad years but still down from the good explosions and that they would like to come to Nepal people back home had warned years,” says Yogendra Shakya. blame the media for the again,” says Halie. them not to come to Nepal be- Nepal’s tourism industry seemed to negative publicity. David “I would tell my friends to cause they perceived that the have survived its worst days. The rea- Halie, a British tourist who come to Nepal,” says Valentina capital city was embroiled in a sons, say many observers, is that Nepal came to Nepal three weeks Marimelli, an Italian tourist. civil war. Marimelli says she read has a devoted client base who are pre- ago, says he heard about the “Don’t worry. It is just the me- news on a web site that said pared to come to Nepal no matter what. that it was safer to go to Af- But the increasing numbers of arrivals ghanistan than Nepal. “My par- INCREASE 2004 (1ST INCREASE disguise a serious problem: The visitors 2002 2003 FROM 2002 7 MONTHS) FROM 2003 ents were worried after the ex- who are coming now are mostly budget Indian 65,629 87,066 33% 57,407 45% plosion,” says Marimelli. Both travelers. “Independent travelers are Third Country 150,292 178,534 19% 110,006 12% are unconcerned about the coming, and that’s good,” says trekking Total 215,922 265,600 23% 167,413 32% situation in Nepal now that they agent AD Sherpa. “But the high-end trav- Table: Tourist arrivals are here.

24 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Conflict LEAVE THE TEACHERS ALONE 161 teachers have been killed in the civil conflict. The furious reaction that forced the security state machinery has acted as irresponsibly as the rebels. forces to take responsibility for the in- cident. But many more killings never get BY SUNIL POKHREL ber 4, 2003 while he was on his way to any attention. The result: nothing but a school. Villagers later discovered his grieving family and a school suddenly ANA KUMARI KOIRALA, THE body. No one in his village really knows without a teacher. widow of a school principal, is mis- why he was killed, but many say the se- After a long silence, associations rep- J erable. The Maoists killed her hus- curity forces believed he was a Maoist resenting the teachers have at least started band, Nanda Lal Koirala, on March 16, sympathizer. to demand compensation for the victims, 1998 in his office at Siddhartha Lower “Teachers in the rural areas have been and government officials are forced on Secondary School in Showr Pani, easy targets for both the Maoists and se- the back foot. Ironically, not a single fam- Gorkha. His offense: The Maoists curity forces to vent their anger,” says ily of those teachers killed by the secu- thought he was a government spy. Babu Ram Adhikari, general secretary of rity forces has received compensation or “They killed my husband because our the Nepal National Teachers’ Associa- pension, even when the deceased had family name is the same as Girija tion. “Unlike civil servants, teachers can- served for more than 20 years and quali- Prasad’s,” says Jana Kumari. She left the not run away to the district headquar- fied for retirement benefits. village soon after her husband’s death, ters. The nature of their job keeps teach- The ones killed by the Maoists aren’t following repeated ers in places where treated well by the state either. Jana threats against her own the government appa- Kumari Koirala hasn’t received any pen- life. When she arrived “The government has ratus is nonexistent sion from the government, despite her in Kathmandu, she had [due to the Maoists] husband’s 21 years of service. She was two young sons and failed to protect the and where they are promised Rs. 100,000 as compensation little else. Shunned by the most vulnerable.” by the then Prime Minister Girija her own relatives, she lives of teachers...” The ground reality Prasad Koirala and received Rs. 50,000 now lives in absolute demands that teachers in the first installment. She never saw poverty. maintain an amicable another paisa. The District Administra- Muktinath Adhikari was the widely relationship with both sides. Just a hint tive Office in Gorkha gave the money respected principal of Padhini Sanskrit of inclination towards one side can be to an unidentified person, she says. “I Secondary School and a member of Am- intolerable to the other. Personal fric- regret that my husband served the gov- nesty International in Lamjung. The tion or minor suspicion results in sud- ernment as a schoolteacher at all. He Maoists killed him because he taught den death. Human rights workers, civil wouldn’t have died had he been a Sanskrit against their orders. They society leaders and political parties, in- Maoist.” dragged him from the classroom where cluding the teachers’ associations, have “The government has failed to pro- he was teaching mathematics. They tied failed to protect teachers, particularly in tect the lives of teachers, and its indif- him to a tree and shot him dead at a place rural areas. “We as a community have ferent attitude towards the victims’ fami- that is five minutes’ walk away from the failed to voice our anger against the kill- lies deserves to be condemned,” says Tej school where he taught for more than 20 ings of our colleagues loud enough to be Prasad Mishra, president of the Teach- years. Many of his students witnessed heard,” admits Keshab Bhattrai, presi- the murder. dent of the Nepal Teachers’ Association. The number of teachers killed in the The killings of teachers have started TEACHERS IN CONFLICT conflict is chilling, and it continues to to go unnoticed. Earlier, the brutal slay- Teachers killed 161 grow. The toll stands at 161 presently. ing of Muktinath Adhikari by the Teachers abducted 16+ The state machinery has acted as irre- Maoists sparked wide anger and con- Whereabouts unknown 5 sponsibly as the rebels. demnation, which forced them to con- Teachers in jail 8 Balaram Barayali, a teacher at Kalika cede their mistake. Schoolteacher Displaced teachers 700(approx) Secondary School in Tandi, Morang, was Yubaraj Moktan’s killing along with sev- Source: Nepal National Teachers’ Association arrested by security forces on Decem- eral others at Doramba last year incited a nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 25 SLAIN: Muktinath Adhikari of Gorkha was shot dead by the Maoists

ers’ Association of Pyuthan. “The gov- sate the families of the teachers killed responsibility inevitably means that the ernment should have a provision to grant in the conflict. Five months on, little families’ miserable wait will drag on. pension to the families of the teachers has been done to honor the pledge. Educators fear that killing a teacher killed, even if the teacher’s status was Adhikari expresses apprehension about causes more than just the obvious harm. temporary.” the government’s commitment. “If the Young minds exposed to the horror may The continued assault against the government continues to shun its be inclined to seek vengeance against the teachers is beginning to take its toll: avowed responsibility,” he says, “we killers. Experts fear that a vicious cycle of Their numbers in the worst affected ar- will take to the streets again.” Ministry killing and counter-killing will continue eas are dwindling fast. Approximately officials claim they are collecting the if students who have witnessed the death 700 teachers have either fled or have been necessary data. “Once the data collec- of their teachers and the children of the forced out. tion is complete, we will ask the Home victims are not properly counseled. In hopes of stemming the flow, the Ministry to compensate the victims’ Is that too much to expect from a sys- Ministry of Education and Sports an- families,” a senior official at the minis- tem that can’t even pay compensation nounced plans in March to compen- try told Nation Weekly. The transfer of and pensions?

26 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Legal Eye Law And Order Strengthening our legal and judicial institutions is essential to attract the Foreign Direct Investment necessary for rapid development

BY JOGENDRA GHIMIRE haps Nepal also has the advantage of institutions that India seems to enjoy. an Nepal achieve double-digit growth?” was the title of a daylong The literature on the workings of the market system normally makes Cbrainstorming session of economists, businessmen, adminis- references to the importance of rule of law, protection of private property trators, journalists and civil society members last week. Orga- and enforcement of contracts as preconditions to any successful market nized as a stakeholders’ session by the Confederation of Nepalese activity. They are equally important while attracting investment too. Industries in preparation for a meeting of luminaries from south and Nepal’s tryst with rule-based commerce is not very old, but we still have south-east Asia—including Dr. Mahathir Mohamad of Malaysia—sched- institutions that can assist, and have been helpful, in the process. The uled for the first week of September, the discussions provided some element of discretion (at times highhandedness) of the officials is still there, useful pointers to what Nepal should do to be on a high-growth path. and that acts as a deterrent to a potential investor. But on the whole, Realistically, most economists seem to believe that Nepal is unlikely to commercial decisions in Nepal are taken increasingly based on rules than grow at anywhere near a double digit rate in the short run, even if funda- on an individual official’s whims. That is not to say that there are no uncer- mental departures are made in its economic focus. What is also lacking , tainties caused by inconsistent and contradictory legal provisions or prac- as Ken Ohashi of the World Bank put it, is the kind of “national passion” for tices, and the failure to apply them in good faith. development present among the Japanese during the 1960s. Protection of private property and enforcement of contracts with the A key area that gets only tangential consideration when planners and assistance of the state are generally assured in Nepal, although prob- industrialists talk of economic policy is the role of institutions—specifically, lems in practice remain. Private property is protected under the constitu- judicial institutions—in the development process. Even if institutions are tion, and there is an additional guarantee against expropriation in the touched upon, the discussion is unlikely to dig deeper into the role of law Foreign Investment and Technology Transfer Act, 1992. Substantively, and judicial institutions in enhancing investments, although for a potential neither rule of law, nor property protection, nor contract enforcement foreign investor, mitigating legal risks may be a principal consideration. For should cause a major alarm for any investor. There have been no cases a country with a saving rate of around 15 percent of the GDP and where of nationalization in Nepal that should worry a foreign investor. FDI will always remain an important contributor to national investments, While substantive legal guarantees and an evolving culture of rule of legal institutions deserve greater attention while planning. law exist, the institution that suddenly becomes important in any com- In a recent paper titled “Why India Can Grow at 7 Percent a Year or mercial dispute involving property and contract enforcement is the court More,” economists Dani Rodrik of Harvard and Arvind Subramanian of system, which is not suited to address the complex commercial ques- the IMF argue that during the 2005-2025 period, India should main- tions at hand. Any development plan should therefore have measures tain a growth of 7 percent or higher. Their economic reasoning is based to introduce reform within the institution and enable it to cope with the upon (a) India’s total production possibility frontier, (b) economic re- demands of open economic environment. Essentially, what our court forms that should enhance it, (c) its pool of skilled human resource, and system, especially the lower judiciary, lacks vis-à-vis the comfort level of (d) the institutions in place that can steer growth. investors are: (a) efficiency in the disposition of disputes, and (b) the Having already completed the difficult task of building key economic ability to apply commercial legal acumen while disposing disputes. and political institutions during the last five decades, India’s per capita Unfortunately, our planners, and our business community, tend to treat income, according to them the judiciary as an “unproduc- should be four to five times of tive” sector that does not add where it stands. Comparing value to the system. Such Indian institutions with China’s, shortsightedness does not they argue the latter is headed help our objective of double- for a difficult challenge. A digit growth. After all, if Nepal country dominated by central- expects to grow by the strength ized planning for decades, it of enhanced foreign invest- has yet to build institutions ment, business certainty and governed by law to make predictability that an efficient them market-friendly, and fa- system of rule of law assures cilitate sustained growth is going to be important. Mak- through them. ing the court system capable It is tempting to feel good to meet the needs of the mod- about the nice things being ern commercial activities said about Indian institutions. should be at the heart of any Nepali institutions are—after planning exercise that we may all—similar to India’s. Per- undertake at this stage. nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 27 Corruption

UML-RPP government transferred Kharel to the National Investigation Department after Kharel allegedly didn’t MORE BITE cooperate with the then Deputy Prime Minister and Home Minister Bam Dev The CIAA has become proactive, but it may need more Gautam. He was later reinstated. As much as controversies, allegations legislative teeth to take a bite at targets close to the real of corruption have doggedly followed centers of power Kharel. Many in the police force now welcome his prosecution. The CIAA BY JOHN NARAYAN PARAJULI Special Court last month convicted Wagle has named Meena Kharel, his wife, and on charges of corruption and sentenced Ayush Kharel, his son, as co-defendants ORMER INSPECTOR GENERAL him to two and a half years in prison and in the case. In the charge sheet, the com- of Police Achyut Krishna Kharel slapped Rs. 27.2 million in fines. mission has asked the Special Court to Fmust have felt the bitter irony of In the charge sheet, the CIAA has put confiscate all his property and to penal- being booked this month by the Com- Kharel’s moveable and immovable prop- ize him with maximum imprisonment. mission for Investigation of Abuse of erty at Rs. 25.69 million. The CIAA claims Kharel reportedly fled to Bangkok af- Authority. In April 2000, Kharel almost that Kharel has “earned illegally” Rs. 16.33 ter getting wind of the CIAA’s impend- became the chief commissioner of the million, more than 60 percent of his to- ing action. “We haven’t been able to CIAA himself until his chances were tal assets. trace them [Kharel, Bohara and Rana],” scuttled by charges of corruption. Now Kharel has been at the center of con- says an official with the CIAA. “It seems the agency he once sought to lead has troversy before, and he held the top of- they have fled.” come after him. fice during turbulent times. He was The Parliament’s Public Account On August 13, the CIAA filed cases known for his strong political affiliations Committee had previously investigated against three successive former police with heavyweights in the Nepali Con- Kharel for his alleged involvement in chiefs—Kharel, Motilal Bohara and gress. Prime Minster Sher Bahadur irregularities in operating petrol pumps Pradip Shumsher JB Rana—at the Spe- Deuba promoted Kharel to the post of owned by the police. The committee’s cial Court. The CIAA’s decision to try the IGP on February 26, 1997, replacing investigation recommended action top guns comes barely a fortnight after Motilal Bohara. A blazing controversy against him to the government as early the anti-corruption watchdog scored its followed. as 2000. The committee’s report has first big success with the conviction of Within weeks of the appointment, been gathering dust in the Parliament’s former minister Chiranjivi Wagle. The Deuba’s government fell. The new secretariat for more than four years.

‘Corruption Is Rampant’ victed former minister Chiranjivi more. So far as the case of Wagle on July 22. Chiranjivi Wagle is concerned, one must not forget that the decision f there is any constitutional As the chief of the CIAA, how of the Special Court is appealable Ibody that enjoys popular sup- do you see the state of corrup- in the Supreme Court. port despite being unelected tion in Nepal? body, it is perhaps the CIAA. Since The state of corruption in Nepal, The CIAA has been taking action 2002 the watchdog agency has as in any country in South Asia, is against those indicated by the become proactive by prosecuting rampant and endemic in nature. JIPC Report 2003, the recent public officials which was long However, there have been im- high-profile case is Wagle’s. overdue. The chief commissioner provements in recent years and Though, we understand that the of the CIAA, Suryanath an atmosphere against corruption Constitution doesn’t give man- Upadhayay is in the news again— is building up in the society. date to the CIAA to investigate after the Special Court con- cases against Army officers, nw/SS Many of those involved in cor- don’t you think the same report ruption enjoy impunity. Do you (JIPC) can be a basis to book if think the conviction of not serving Army offices, at Chiranjivi Wagle has helped least, the retired ones? break that cycle of impunity? The JIPC report is relatively rich and Not only this particular case, there is a special piece of information for have been many convictions by the CIAA and it is being used by us the Special Court on corruption in in our investigation. However, it is recent years. Hope has grown in neither exclusive nor the only the society that impunity on cor- source. The CIAA has many sources ruption shall not be tolerated any for information. Although there has

28 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Bohara of illegally earning Rs. 23.82 mil- “Army! They are beyond our juris- lion out of his total assets of Rs. 43.84 mil- diction,” says a CIAA official. But the

nw/SS lion. It has asked the Special Court to con- commission may have the right to pro- fiscate all his property and slap a maxi- ceed against retired Army officers, at mum possible jail term. The constitu- least. “Although there has not been any tional watchdog is also investigating the interpretation of the Constitution,” property owned by Bohara’s son, Gajendra says Suryanath Upadhayay, the CIAA Bohara. chief, “so far on the issue of proceed- After a four-month investigation, the ings against Army personnel, we feel CIAA has asked the Special Court to that those who come under the Army confiscate Pradip Shumsher JB Rana’s law are excluded from our jurisdic- property. The commission accuses him tion.” of illegally amassing Rs. 37.78 out of his The CIAA prosecuted Wagle on total property of Rs. 66.92 million. Rana the basis of the Judicial Inquiry Com- served in the police force for 32 years mission on Property report. And since and succeeded Kharel as the police chief the JIPC has also investigated cases of in 2000. Army officers, the CIAA may be able Although many have hailed the ac- to use the information collected. Al- tions of the CIAA, there are also critics though cases against big fish like BOOKED: Pradip Shumsher JB Rana who say the CIAA is biased and unwill- Kharel may give reason to be optimis- “We must take such steps as positive,” ing to go after people who have either tic, “It’s just the tip of an iceberg,” says says Subhas Nembwang, a member of royal or military connections. Some po- Nembwang. He is critical of the small the parliamentary committee that inves- lice officials are apparently not happy volume of cases filed by the watch- tigated the charge against Kharel, refer- about the actions taken by the CIAA. dog. ring to the CIAA’s recent move. Although They say the commission is selectively The commission must not only in- Nembwang refused to comment on in- targeting the police. “Why only the po- crease the number of cases it refers to dividual cases, he advocated empower- lice? Why not the Army, where the pro- the court but also broaden the range of ing the CIAA. portion of corruption is much bigger?” people it investigates. But if the com- The allegations against Kharel are seri- says a senior police official. “And why mission is to investigate powerful people ous, but the charges the CIAA makes against only those retired ones, why not those who seem to be enjoying immunity now, the other two ex-police chiefs are even who are corrupt and are still in active it may need more legislative teeth to have more so. The commission accuses Motilal duty?” he asks. a big enough bite.

not been any interpretation of the ruption law. I will like to remind you regulatory body becomes effective, mosphere in the society so far as Constitution so far on the issue of of the famous cases related to ad- the activities, which you call “cor- corruption is concerned, which ulti- proceedings against the Army per- vancement of loan to private firms ruption” by private firm and indi- mately helps in raising awareness sonnel, we feel that those who come where CIAA prosecuted both the vidual, may substantially be and prevention of such activities. under the Army law are excluded bank officials and proprietors of checked. As regards with Army per- from our jurisdiction. those companies. There are hosts sonnel I think I have already an- How has CIAA changed over the of cases where a private person or swered your question. years? Many in the police want the CIAA a firm found to be in complicity with There have been remarkable to investigate cases against any public official has been investi- During your tenure CIAA has be- changes in the CIAA. The institution those police officers that are gated by the CIAA and, when found come more proactive, why do you has grown three-fold in terms of the still in office. Have you thought guilty, has been prosecuted in the think CIAA was ineffective for so manpower. It has achieved phe- about it? court. This sort of jurisdiction, how- many years since its formation? nomenal growth in getting convic- If you look at the cases filed in the ever, may be termed as “indirect May be the anti-corruption climate tions from the Special Court. The court we have been charge sheet- jurisdiction.” As regards “direct juris- was not ripe in the society. conviction rate has risen to 85 per- ing even those police officers that diction,” i.e., of the violation of the cent, which otherwise used to be are currently in office. regulatory regime for personal gains A lot of people are coming out 45 percent in the past. We have or personal loss by a private indi- on the streets and hailing CIAA’s been making many strides in the Does the CIAA need more pow- vidual or a firm, that could be dealt action, does that help you in field of prevention. We work closely ers to be able to investigate with by a regulatory body through being more proactive? with the government and the civil charges of corruption against regulatory regime under which such We are not influenced either posi- society organizations to control the both private individuals and a regulatory body is mandated. tively or negatively by such actions. menace. I think, in all, one may con- those in the Army? Since CIAA is not a regulatory body, We are adherents of strict neutral- clude that in the last three years the As a matter of fact, both taking and in that sense private firms and bod- ity and justice. We go by the tenets CIAA has witnessed a sea change in giving bribe are criminal activities and ies per se do not come under our of the law. The support of the people its all-round growth. I advise you to are punishable under the anti-cor- jurisdiction. My opinion is that if the helps in building non-tolerable at- make your own judgment on this. nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 29 Writing on the Wall ON MIGRATION AND OMAR OF THE PACIFIC

K. N. Sharma, a.k.a., Omar, is a lonesome Nepali soul in the middle of nowhere in a communist republic, running a fantastic chain of In- dian and Italian restaurants

example from an unlikely location: Omar “Director” of a BY SWARNIM WAGLÉ of the South China Sea. chain of restau- N THE LAND OF THE NAKED, K. N. Sharma, a.k.a., Omar, calls him- rants with a brand even Gandhi in a translucent loincloth self the “only Indian chef in Nha Trang.” name of some Iis well clad. We Nepalis thus deserve His modest restaurant overlooks the tur- value in a coun- what little pride we take in our scant mi- quoise waters of the Pacific in a bay town of try where no grant and diasporic “successes”— sales- South-central Vietnam. Omar says his folks one understands women in multi-national companies, au- come from Parbat, but he left for India early why he exists thors who sell, senior civil servants in in- to train as a chef. The nearest Nepali resides where he does, ternational bureaucracies, tenured lectur- a few hundred miles away and he lives far Omar is a minor ers in decent universities, restaurateurs and from the main cities—Saigon is 450 kilo- celebrity. When I caught up with him re- shopkeepers, doctors and broadcasters, la- meters away, and to southerners, Hanoi, the cently, he had his news handy: “I was re- borers, soldiers, and software whiz-kids here capital, would seem close to the North Pole. cently interviewed by Vietnamese Televi- and there. It’s an uneven group, our diaspora, Omar is thus a lonesome Nepali soul in the sion.” Omar is married to a charming local but this week in Nepal, we realized how middle of nowhere in a communist repub- lady from Khanh Hoa province and has important the group is becoming to people lic, running a fantastic chain of Indian and bought property, possibly eyeing a settled who reside within. When Kul Gautam, the Italian restaurants. He draws his nickname household in his adopted country. He re- UNICEF Number Two, walked out of his from his restaurants that he named after mits substantial amounts of dollars back to meeting with the prime minister on August Omar Khayyam, the 11th century Persian his folks in Nepal, but there’s no denying 19, people wanted to know how he was go- mathematician who authored the “Treatise that Omar’s home is where his heart is, and ing to fix the Maoist problem, even though on Demonstration of Problems of Alge- his heart is where his love is. he insisted that he had come to do some- bra.” And for a Nepali chef of Indian meals in thing about Measles, not Maoists, the former Nowhere, Vietnam, Omar cuts a cosmo- being a relatively bigger killer, at 5000 lives AN UNLIKELY HOME politan figure wearing light pink shirts with per year. The storm over Minister Raghuji After early stints in Hong Kong, and even the top buttons unbuttoned. He speaks Pant’s regulatory intervention on the selec- the Soaltee in Kathmandu, Omar decided Nepali or Hindi to his bemused Vietnam- tion process of temporary migrants to Ko- to go to Cambodia. He said he just liked the ese waitresses if and when he feels like it. rea also highlighted the other facet of this idea of going to a place with an exotic name To a vagabond observer, Omar perhaps of- phenomenon. Bringing in over US$1 bil- and interesting royalty. Aged 27 and clueless fers a 20th century parallel to the 19th century lion annually, an amount comparable to gov- in his purpose for travel, the clerk at the Naipauls of the Gangetic plains who in their ernment expenditures for the year, Nepali Delhi embassy where he applied for a visa quest for a better life, and romantic escape, workers are not merely a category in our rightly told him that he was mad. After three ended up in the most unusual places on national accounts, but are really our unsung decades of turmoil following the rise and earth. The author V.S. Naipaul told the world heroes who, desperate for escape and hope collapse of the Maoist Khmer Rouge, Cam- in his Nobel acceptance speech in 2001 that themselves, sustain our economy in the pro- bodia was just beginning its reconstruction, there is a chance his father’s lineage is from cess. For every recognizable name like Kul Hun Sen was the boss, and there were more Nepal: “I know nothing of the people on Gautam or Samrat Upadhyay, there are thou- guns around than cement or teachers. my father’s side; I know only that some of sands of Nepalis toiling away in the heat of Phnom Penh was a dangerous place in the them came from Nepal. Two years ago a the Indian tea stalls and Gulf factories, gas 90s, and Omar drifted further east to the kind Nepali who liked my name sent me a stations and ethnic restaurants in the west. calmer shores of Vietnam. He thinks the copy of some pages from an 1872 gazetteer- This column offers a tribute to this phe- move was fated. like British work about India, “Hindu Castes nomenon of worldwide Nepali persever- After six years in the socialist republic, and Tribes as Represented in Benares”; the ance, by digressing to profile an unusual there appears no looking back for Omar. As pages listed those groups of Nepalese in

30 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly TOURIST DESTINATION: Nha Trang is Vietnam’s premier seaside resort the holy city of Benares who carried the name Naipal.” In the colonial age, there was an element of coercion involved, or false incentives to uproot people; in the age of freedom, Omar guided himself by free will, and found his peace and place in a commu- nist country. Omar shares with the Naipauls the same longing for the new and the un- known. Those indentured laborers shipped by the British to plantations in the West Indies included people from the Maithili belt of the present-day Nepali Tarai. Econo- mist Sukhdev Sah spoke once of his wish to open a radio station in the Caribbean where he knew his folk songs from Dhanusha would find a ready audience. Omar’s courtesies and business sense ensure that in his restaurants, the posters of the Mecca stand next to that of Patan, Everest and the Taj, and that K. N. Sharma the Hindu is only amused at Muslim cli- ents who enter his eateries assuming that a place called Omar’s must cater to their faith. It is rare that one runs into a Nepali on the shores of the South China Sea, a modestly educated man who expresses a Naipaulian sense of belonging to the whole wide world, not within borders. It would, of course, be unfair to excessively romanti- cize Omar’s lonely existence in Vietnam. He has his share of problems with the po- lice, rival restaurants and arbitrary tax-tor- mentors. But he is a survivor with a lot of practical tips for entrepreneurs who want to bypass the red tape in a red state.

A STORM BREWS This spring I flew a thousand miles to visit Omar’s town for the second time. He in- formed there were two Nepalis in town now. He had arranged for the other to come and cook at his fancier Indian joint at the posh Sailing Club. Soon after, Omar said with no bitterness, that his guest had plot- ted to overthrow Omar and run the place himself, in connivance with the Australian owners of the club. That was a silent coup d’etat in Nha Trang, a tiny storm over Naan and Paneer, but no one noticed. Mocking what he said was an incorrigible Nepali trait of pulling each other’s legs, “wherever, whenever,” Omar said he had no choice but to move on. On growth plans, he now wants to set up new restaurants in nearby prov- inces. Restaurants for tourists draw lucra- tive dollars, no doubt, but this time, Omar SUNSET: says he wants to open Vietnamese stalls for Overlooking the South China Sea the locals, “their money is money too.” nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 31 Banking CHARGE IT!

More and more Nepalis are holding on to their plastic money

emergencies, as Lama found out. More BY INDRA ADHIKARI and more Nepalis are holding on to their AST AUGUST DHEERAJ LAMA’S plastic money. Four banks—Himalayan sister was hospitalized at Hargan’s Bank, Nabil Bank, Standard Chartered LNursing Home in Jawalakhel Bank Nepal and Nepal Investment Bank with a broken leg. The accident issue credit and debit cards. Introduced happended at about 9 p.m. When the in the early 90s, banks say the number of clinic demanded Rs. 10,000 immediately, cardholders shot up since 1997-98 after Lama panicked: How was he going to an advertising blitz aimed at the get that kind of money at night? Then he middleclass. CARD BOOM: The remembered he had a credit card, which “Earlier, most Nepalis felt that the majority of users he had never used at such an odd hour. cards were meant only for the rich,” says are from “For a while, I was dumbstruck,” Sandeep Shrestha, assistant director at Kathmandu Lama recalls. “My first instinct was to Nabil Bank’s card division. “We were borrow from friends and relatives. Then able to change that mindset over time carry around money, which comes in es- it dawned on me: perhaps the credit card through media campaigns. You just need pecially handy when the bills are big and athens2004.com could work. Why not ask?” Rs. 10,000 of monthly income to hold a instead of standing in long lines at the Credit and debit cards are useful in card—either debit or credit.” Strangely cash counter, you can use an ATM any- daily life and can get very handy during enough, when Nabil introduced its time you choose. Indeed, say users, it is credit card in 1993 in col- security and convenience that have fu- laboration with elled the growth of the card industry in MasterCard, only the af- the country. fluent would sign up, “I started using credit cards three though the account hold- years ago,” says Dhiraj Lama, a front desk ers only needed to have a officer at British Airways in Kamaladi. monthly income of Rs. His business requires frequent travels 10,000. to Indian cities. “It’s a lot of hassle carry- Now more than ing money and exchanging it from 38,000, most of them with Nepali rupees into Indian currency.” He middle-class incomes, never felt safe walking around with the have become regular us- bulky cash, recalling his difficulty in ers of these cards, thanks New Delhi where he saw a lot of travel- to three other banks that ers using credit cards. are now competing with With all the comfort it offers, it will Nabil in the card market. be a long time before most Nepali In all, the banks have made middleclass families start having credit transactions worth Rs. 906 cards tucked in their wallets. The rea- million in the last 10 years sons are many: Banks say technology is a through the card holders. major constraint. It is now the Standard Birgunj and Pokhara are only cities Chartered Bank Nepal outside Kathmandu to have ATMs. And that has the highest num- very few businesses outside Kathmandu ber of card holders— accept card payments. No surprise then more than 27,000, fol- that more than 90 percent of card users lowed by Nabil with are in Kathmandu, the country’s prime 5,400. business hub. TREND-SETTER: Cards are a double Most banks outside Kathmandu don’t Nabil Bank was luxury: You don’t need to offer cards simply because they don’t the first to introduce credit 32 cards AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Banking CHARGE IT!

More and more Nepalis are holding on to their plastic money

emergencies, as Lama found out. More BY INDRA ADHIKARI and more Nepalis are holding on to their AST AUGUST DHEERAJ LAMA’S plastic money. Four banks—Himalayan sister was hospitalized at Hargan’s Bank, Nabil Bank, Standard Chartered LNursing Home in Jawalakhel Bank Nepal and Nepal Investment Bank with a broken leg. The accident issue credit and debit cards. Introduced happended at about 9 p.m. When the in the early 90s, banks say the number of clinic demanded Rs. 10,000 immediately, cardholders shot up since 1997-98 after Lama panicked: How was he going to an advertising blitz aimed at the get that kind of money at night? Then he middleclass. CARD BOOM: The remembered he had a credit card, which “Earlier, most Nepalis felt that the majority of users he had never used at such an odd hour. cards were meant only for the rich,” says are from “For a while, I was dumbstruck,” Sandeep Shrestha, assistant director at Kathmandu Lama recalls. “My first instinct was to Nabil Bank’s card division. “We were borrow from friends and relatives. Then able to change that mindset over time carry around money, which comes in es- it dawned on me: perhaps the credit card through media campaigns. You just need pecially handy when the bills are big and athens2004.com could work. Why not ask?” Rs. 10,000 of monthly income to hold a instead of standing in long lines at the Credit and debit cards are useful in card—either debit or credit.” Strangely cash counter, you can use an ATM any- daily life and can get very handy during enough, when Nabil introduced its time you choose. Indeed, say users, it is credit card in 1993 in col- security and convenience that have fu- laboration with elled the growth of the card industry in MasterCard, only the af- the country. fluent would sign up, “I started using credit cards three though the account hold- years ago,” says Dhiraj Lama, a front desk ers only needed to have a officer at British Airways in Kamaladi. monthly income of Rs. His business requires frequent travels 10,000. to Indian cities. “It’s a lot of hassle carry- Now more than ing money and exchanging it from 38,000, most of them with Nepali rupees into Indian currency.” He middle-class incomes, never felt safe walking around with the have become regular us- bulky cash, recalling his difficulty in ers of these cards, thanks New Delhi where he saw a lot of travel- to three other banks that ers using credit cards. are now competing with With all the comfort it offers, it will Nabil in the card market. be a long time before most Nepali In all, the banks have made middleclass families start having credit transactions worth Rs. 906 cards tucked in their wallets. The rea- million in the last 10 years sons are many: Banks say technology is a through the card holders. major constraint. It is now the Standard Birgunj and Pokhara are only cities Chartered Bank Nepal outside Kathmandu to have ATMs. And that has the highest num- very few businesses outside Kathmandu ber of card holders— accept card payments. No surprise then more than 27,000, fol- that more than 90 percent of card users lowed by Nabil with are in Kathmandu, the country’s prime 5,400. business hub. TREND-SETTER: Cards are a double Most banks outside Kathmandu don’t Nabil Bank was luxury: You don’t need to offer cards simply because they don’t the first to introduce credit 32 cards AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly WTO: The rich get richer? All photos nw/SS

long as he promptly informs his bank about the loss. Debit cards are more popular than credit cards. They offer all the conve- nience and security features of credit cards, without getting the cardholders into unnecessary debt traps. “With debit cards, you only spend what you have,” says Niraj Sharma of Himalayan Bank. PLASTIC MONEY: Amatya Amatya of Yeti Travels says he likes says cards have made his the debit card because there is no risk of family expenditure flexible overspending. “I have given cards to all And both have two three members of my family,” says cateogories: those Amatya. “They can spend from my ac- valid in Nepal and count even when I am not home. This India only and those has made my family expenditure flex- that work world- ible.” Unlike credit cards, debit cards wide. It’s necessary require no interest payments. to hold a dollar ac- By contrast, not everyone can get a count to make the credit card. In addition to a bank account, card work outside only people over 18 years of age with a Nepal and India. monthly income above Rs. 10,000 are eli- More than 70 per- gible. Perhaps because of that, credit cent of Nepali cards are not only for business: They are cardholders use the also becoming fashionable. “I felt un- former. comfortable when I saw everyone pay- With cards, pur- ing with credit cards while in India,” says chasing gets all too easy. Dheeraj Lama. Ramesh Karki, ac- Whether it be the utility factor or count officer at British the status symbol that has fuelled de- Airways, says, “I can mands for cards, the market has some buy things even if I am serious problems that need immedi- in debt, and I don’t have ate correction. With no authorities to to pay interest on the keep track of the customer’s credit his-

HIMALAYAN BANK: sum I use for at least a tory, the default rates are increasing: One of four banks month.” He adds, “I Some five percent of the 38,000 offering credit and can pay the bank back cardholders have defaulted and the de- debit cards in Nepal at the month end or in faulters can always switch from one installments. This has bank to another. “The only way that we increased my eco- can find the economic status of a pro- nomic status.” Card spective customer is through a letter users also have the op- from the organization where he or she tion of paying 10 per- works,” says Sharma of Himalayan cent of the amount due Bank. Sharma tells a story of an un- each month, rather than named customer who fled to the have the ATMs there. Even in paying all of it at once. But the outstanding United States after charging Rs. 1.5 Kathmandu, ATMs are scarce, and places balance is charged a hefty 30 percent inter- million on his card. The bank has lost that accept cards for payment are mostly est to encourage prompt repayments. For track of him. More of such frauds are upscale, catering to foreigners and the some people, the convenience of the card expected unless an oversight mecha- well to do. Even so, more than 70 per- is worth the cost. nism is quickly put in place. cent of Nepali cardholders use their Bijay Amatya, managing director of The Nepal Card Member Forum cards both at ATMs and for purchasing Yeti Travels, has been using both credit was formed in 1999 to check frauds. It goods in supermarkets and in hotels. and debit cards for five years. They come will keep track of the credit history of Almost all local businesses that have in handy, especially during his travels. card users. The forum also plans to make credit card facilities accept all cards is- He walks around with a comforting ATM and credit card technology avail- sued by the four banks. There are two thought that he doesn’t have to worry able all over the country. Both are big types of cards: Visa and MasterCard. even if his cards get stolen, or lost—so challenges. nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 33 Radio

they grow up,” says Shah, who calls all Voices Together the street children bhai. Sathsath is open to all bhais, who come there in the afternoons to learn new things, “Sathsath” is a radio magazine aired every Wednesday on play computer games or read books. Edu- cational workshops on issues such as Radio Sagarmatha FM 102.4. Its focus—street children health and earthquakes, team building games and making toys out of papier- episode is already recorded and stacked, mâché are occasionally offered. An aver- BY SATISH JUNG SHAHI ready to be aired. age of 17 street children turn up each day, t is Wednesday, 6 p.m. A small group Most of the issues for the program and Sathsath’s three-month data showed a of children, almost a dozen, all in rags, come from the street children them- total of 251 different kids. Most came from Iare gathered at a two-story house in selves after rigorous group discussions. Kalimati, Kalanki, Balaju, Chabhil, Sangam Chowk, Naya Baneshwore in The experiences of Rajkumar and Jadibuti, Ekantakuna and Jawalakhel. front of the radio, instead of in the street. Santosh, former street children them- The Sathsath team has a hotline mo- They are here to listen to their own selves, who run the contact center along bile number for the street children to use voices on the half-hour radio magazine with Biso and Suchita are taken into when they require assistance on health Sathsath (meaning together), on Radio consideration. Two more professionals matters or when they end up in jail. When Sagarmatha FM 102.4. Most of the par- have been hired for technical assistance. a rickshaw operated by one of the street ticipants in the radio program, includ- One street child has been trained and is children, Rabi Maharjan, and his friend ing the reporters who gather the sound now working with Arjun Thapa was run over by a microbus bites, are street children themselves. the radio team. in July 2002, Maharjan died. Thapa recov- “It is a medium to get the voice of “If friends aren’t ered despite two fractures in his leg be- these underprivileged street kids to the open to friends then cause Sathsath rushed them to the hospi- community,” says Biso Bajracharya, who is?” says 13- tal after receiving a distress call. chairman of Sathsath, a contact center for year-old Sundar The educational activities and moral street children in Naya Baneshwore that Bhujel, the budding support Sathsath offers has allowed Bhujel produces the weekly program. “Our main focus groups are school-going chil- dren, their teachers and the community. We want to improve the image of the children who they call khates.” “The response so far has been ex- tremely encouraging,” adds Bajracharya. According to Suchita Shah, program manager at Sathsath, they have started receiving hundreds of letters answering the quiz that is a part of the weekly show. The program also includes a feature story with voices of the street children and comments from experts and a dra- matic presentation, as well as the quiz. All of the issues discussed are focused on street children. “Our top priority has always been the reporter. “When I talk to my other and a few other street children to get jobs. street kids themselves, and we even want friends, they’re more open on many is- One of them is already distributing publi- to hand over full time production of the sues, though there are still none who want cations for Bitarak.com after he learned program once they are capable,” adds to become a reporter like me.” the Roman alphabet. Other street children Bajracharya, who coordinates the pro- Getting many street children to turn are becoming interested in work. gram recording in a small make-shift stu- into reporters or take on any other skilled When we were about to leave the con- dio on the ground floor at his contact cen- job will be hard for Sathsath, as it does tact center, we asked young reporter ter. Recording is done on Saturday morn- not provide shelter to the kids. Most of Bhujel what he wanted to become when ings, and the final ready-made program is the street children they work with still he grows up. “I still want to be just like packaged on a CD and delivered to Radio live on the street. “Most of the bhais re- you all,” he said, looking at this reporter Sagarmatha to be aired on Wednesday. turn back to the streets though there are before turning shyly towards the com- The British Embassy is supporting 20 so many shelter homes. We decided the puter and the sound mixers in Sathsath’s episodes of the radio program that has bhais needed assistance rather than free studio. Now that’s encouragement to been on air since July 7, and its eighth shelter that could turn them lazy when people like us.

34 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly TEX. WORLD A mark of high quality

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to brush up their drawing skills, says Kharel, who is currently teaching a group It Pays To Learn Art of people with no formal background in fine art at Sirjana College. There are several reasons for the Until the early 90s, artists had limited choices. There boom. Nepal has had unprecedented growth in the media since 1990. Accord- were a few jobs but not many alternatives. Now lots of ing to the Press Council, about 1,800 jobs are available to those with an art background. newspapers and magazines are in opera- tion today. A national daily broadsheet newspaper needs six or seven layout art- some sort of paid work. Graduates are in ists and a cartoonist at minimum; a maga- BY AJIT BARAL high demand. zine needs two layout artists and a car- ot many artists in Nepal survive This is a big change from the past. toonist. The book publishing industry doing only “fine art.” Uttam Until the early 90s, artists had limited is growing too, and it needs page setters NKharel, a senior artist himself, choices: They could devote themselves and cover designers. Do the math: Our says only Kiran Manandhar and Uttam to their art even when it did not pay a publishing industry requires lots of Nepali live on their art. Rajan Kafle, a penny or they could teach. There were a trained artists. Where will the manpower product of Lalit Kala Campus, who sur- few jobs for illustrators but no other al- come from? Art colleges, of course. vives doing odd jobs, concurs. Even so, ternatives. Now lots of jobs are available Technological advancement has en- more and more students have started to to those with an art background. Bikrant abled people with aesthetic skills to do enroll at Lalit Kala Campus, the only Shrestha, a third-year student at Lalit Kala many things on or with the computer. government-owned art school. Over the Campus, says, “Art students these days Graphic design, animation and special last few years, the campus has seen a have lots of job opportunities to take to. effects for films are all commonly done gradual increase in student enrollment, They can do animation, illustrations, digitally now. Technically oriented says Nagen Singh, vice president of the graphic design, cover design, layout and people with their eyes set on, let’s say, Free Students’ Union at Lalit Kala Cam- cartoons; make story-boards for films creating special effects or computer-gen- pus. He adds, “About 600 students are and television serials or even teach. It all erated animations have also started tak- studying in different levels at present.” depends on their aptitude.” Lured by ing art courses, even though they rarely Even private art colleges have started these opportunities, many people with teach students about how technology can to attract students. Sirjana College of no art background are taking art classes enrich and expand art. Fine Arts started three years The boom in boarding ago with only seven students. schools has also fuelled interest Now it has 56 students. Simi- in art. Most boarding schools larly, Kathmandu University include drawing in their offer- offered a one-year diploma in ings, and they need art teachers. art last year. Twelve students Shrestha says that schools like enrolled. This year the univer- Little Angels recruit five or six sity is expecting 20 students art teachers each. Often they are and has added a three-year paid more than other teachers. Bachelor of Fine Arts pro- It’s possible to live by teaching gram. art even without becoming a Why are students increas- successful artist. ingly opting for an arts educa- Purists may worry that com- tion? Because commercial op- mercialization threatens the pu- portunities in the arts beckon, rity of fine art. One talented art- even if the fine arts are lan- ist and teacher at Kathmandu guishing. “Jobs come seeking University, Sujan Chitrakar, dis- those with an art background,” agrees. “One doesn’t have to do says Singh, who draws car- art full time after graduating in toons for different newspapers arts,” he says. The students on a freelance basis. He adds, swelling the rolls in Nepal’s art “Even those studying at the schools clearly believe that, and certificate level are doing one they seem quite willing to forgo thing or the other.” That may a life of poverty pursuing art for be a bit of an exaggeration, but art’s sake in favor of making a evidence shows that more and good living doing something more art students are getting they love.

36 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly

Sense & Nonsense A Sovereign Summer

A popular bumper sticker in America these days reads, “Someone Else For President”

BY SAMRAT UPADHYAY the Republicans do have a headache that the Democrats more or less didn’t—a massive march and rally of 250,000 protestors with a clear n the murky waters of election-year American politics, August is the theme: The World Says No to the Bush Agenda. United for Peace and quiet month. Not this time. John Kerry and George W. Bush are Justice, the organizer of the demonstration, is “a coalition of more than I 800 local and national groups throughout the United States who have scouring the country for votes, slings and counter-slings have begun with gusto and political pundits tell us, ad nauseum, that it’s going to be joined together to oppose our government’s policy of permanent warfare a tight election. I’m hoping nothing like the suffocating tightness of the and empire-building.” It’ll be a thing to watch. 2000 elections, where the final battle was fought on the floors of the The Presidential Debates: George Bush’s language skills will be se- Supreme Court, which gave Bush his presidency. verely tested during these televised debates, scheduled from late Sep- So far this year the omens are good, especially for those like me in tember to mid October, and considered quite important in swaying the “AnybodyButBush” camp. Although a recent poll suggests that Bush’s undecided voters. Bush and Kerry will battle it out three times in front of job approval rating is still dangerously high, Democratic nominee John live audiences. John Kerry, although not a passion-arousing speaker, is Kerry leads in electoral votes—votes that really count, as we learned fairly eloquent (“He reads,” claims his wife Teresa Heinz-Kerry, in an from the last presidential election, when Al Gore had to throw in the towel implied barb at Bush, who’s admitted he doesn’t even read newspa- despite receiving more popular votes than Bush. But things change pers). How will Bush fare against Kerry’s complex sentences? James quickly in this country, amply proven by the latest revelation by the New Fallows of The Atlantic Monthly thinks that the Democrats underesti- Jersey governor that he’s gay and that he’s had an extramarital affair. mate Bush’s language at their own peril. He points to Bush’s strong Another attack on U.S. soil could debating skills when he was the quickly change the mood of the coun- governor of Texas. But I’m hope- try, and voters could cling to Bush for ful because Bush continues to reassurance. Conversely, they could butcher the English language as turn against him for having failed to well as show his lack of capac- prevent such an attack. Or an unsa- ity for complex thoughts. (After vory revelation about either of the can- all, wasn’t the Iraq war sold to didates could prove damaging, al- the American public with a sim- though at this point it seems nothing plistic good-versus-evil propo- Bush does can get him into deep, sition?) The most telling of Nixon-like trouble, except perhaps oust Bush’s latest language gaffes— him from office by a narrow margin. already being coded for history After it’s become clear that a major- as “Bushisms”—occurred ear- ity of Americans are (slightly) dissatis- lier this month, when the hon- fied with the economy and (slightly) orable president said, to the de- unhappy about the Iraq war, Bush is light of those who think that this counting on his leadership on the so- administration has hurt this called “war on terror,” on which Ameri- country in more ways than one: cans still give him high marks. He, backed “Our enemies are innovative by Vice President Cheney, is still insist- and resourceful, and so are we. ing that Iraq is a part of this war, al- They never stop thinking about though by all indications a new genera- new ways to harm our country tion of terrorists is being nurtured on the and our people, and neither do very soil where Bush claimed his “mis- we.” While this could be passed sion accomplished.” John Kerry, on the off as a mere linguistic blunder, other hand, is hoping that dismal job what he said during the Unity growth and soaring budget deficit will Journalists of Color convention make Americans reconsider Bush’s term and oust him from office. points to fundamental lack of thinking skills. A Native-American journal- What to expect in the coming days? ist asked, “What do you think tribal sovereignty means in the 21st The Republican National Convention: Scheduled to begin at the end century?” The president answered, “Tribal sovereignty means that— of this month, the GOP convention will tout Bush’s leadership in post-9/ it’s sovereignty. I mean, you’re a—you’re a—you’ve been given sover- 11 America. He will be presented as a “tough” leader who deserves eignty and you’re viewed as a sovereign entity.” another four years to defend the country from the evil of terrorism. It will May the best man win. be a made-for-TV affair, as the Democratic National Convention was, but (Upadhyay teaches in the MFA writing program at Indiana University, U.S.)

38 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly C AL ER N T O I IF T I C A

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I L IMITED No Laughing Matter Mobile Wherever U R

There’s no denying that the advent of cellphones has created a revolution in the lifestyles of many in Nepal

BY KUNAL LAMA moment, you expect him to belt out a bad version of Madonna, or infrared himself to Mars. No questions asked, this guy knows how to link epal Telecom is a smug company. It’s making megabucks in a his phone to his PC or laptop; is thoroughly conversant with every single nation renowned for its debt-ridden, loss-making public enter- feature available, from Bluetooth to WAP to Predictive text input. Useful N to know when you want to send a business card across, but a frightful prises. With around 180,000 cellphone users, it has more than matched its present sales target. It also promises, gung-ho-ly, bore to have when the subject is not his cellphone. improvements and upgrades in its infrastructure and services to further You must be at the receiving end of many a serial joker, the ones who increase the number of users. It has the money, but does it have a plan keep pinging you with countless jokes (and, sometimes, Ganesha good to do so properly? (The specter of a George Bush rising up from the luck mantras, for a bit of thoughtful variation), throughout the day and, ranks of the telecom administration is somewhat of an alarming thought, when you wake up in the morning, you realize that they have been at it especially when we do not have a local documentarian of the caliber throughout the night as well. Sardar-ji jokes can only be funny as long as and tenacity of Michael Moore to humor us out in a peculiarly propagan- you are lucky—or unlucky, depending on personal perspective—to have dist fashion.) User complaints are a mile-long and run the gamut from a Sardar-ji friend around to tease mercilessly. bad connection to their woefully ill-designed website. There’s no deny- There are also those who annoy you with their total and absolute ing, however, that the advent of cellphones has created a revolution in refusal to let an SMS go unanswered. Whether deep into the merits and the lifestyles of many in Nepal. And it has given birth to a bewildering demerits of Koshi Multi-Purpose Project or the fitness of Dr. Mohammed subspecies of Homo sapiens nepalensis! Mohsin Khan—as a Royal Appointee—to be the official spokesperson of the present government, the moment a text message is announced, these compulsive SMS-ers begin madly to let their distracted fingerpoints do the talk- ing. If one is clever enough to convert adversity to advantage, it is best to keep the conversations abbreviated and sim- ply SMS each other. The debates and discussions could, of course, go on pointlessly, with no dam or Deuba in sight. My personal bêtes noires are the public loud speakers who simply carry on chatting about the state of their lives, no matter where or who they are with. They seem to believe that what they do with their mobiles is their personal right and refuse to turn them off. I would love these subspecies to be arrested by the authorities for public offensive acts and harassment and thrown in the slammer with no food or water until they learn to dress down their habit and go Take, for example, the latest cell must-haver. With up-to-the-minute about their business in private, not public. However, I have not quite uplinks to all the green channel violators in the country, before a model figured out if I would be fingered by Sapana Pradhan Malla and other is out of the factories in China, he already has them. Brand loyalty human rights activists and associations for subjecting minority commu- means nothing to him. Once possessed, he shows ’em, proud as the nities to persecution, besides accused of being hand-in-hand with the father of a newborn son. Except, this dad ditches his sons the moment brutal arms of law and injustice. another one arrives. Somewhere in his house, there’s got to be a cellphone A tiny machine, weighing about 100g, all metal and chips and LCD graveyard. I wonder if the pile of “dead” phones would be banned for and closed-up keys. It’s a wonder what science and technology has exports to Australia? wrought to give us this communication tool which, until 20 years ago, Then there’s the complete mobile man. Not content with just the would have been completely at home in the latest James Bond install- phone, this dude goes all out with accessories: carrying case, desktop ment as Q’s yet another amazing invention. Keep it handy, folks, and stand, wireless car kit, ears-a-dangling with wires and headsets. Any carry on talking.

40 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Nepal’s leading business & management magazine in its 2ND YEAR of working towards business excellence

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GPO Box: 2294, New Baneshwor, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 4780394, 4781153, Fax: 4782100 www.readtheboss.com Profile The River Guide From a rafting guide to being an anti-dam activist, it’s been a long ride. “My life’s been like the rapids, ups and downs,” says Ale.

BY SATISH JUNG SHAHI

orty-three-year-old tourism entrepreneur Megh Ale is an adventure buff who runs a rafting agency and a river resort. His work, which Fbrings him close to the wilderness, has also taught him the value of nature conservation. “I haven’t studied environmental science,” says Ale, who looks like an aging cowboy in western movies, minus the hat, with his long ponytail and a goatee. “My profession is river guiding, and I am only doing the things I have learned,” he says. When we met him at his Lazimpat office last week, he had a huge jet-black Tibetan mastiff dog with him. “I have two more dogs in my Borderland Resort Hotel near Bhotekoshi. I am only taking care of this one until I can find its owner,” he said. Ale’s care for a lost dog shows in a small way his concern for nature. His bigger projects are compelling and also popular. The Fourth Bagmati River Festival that Ale organized as founding president of Nepal River Conservation Trust came to an end last week after two and a half months. It has brought much more attention to the urgent steps needed to clean up the country’s holiest, and perhaps dirtiest, river. “The Bagmati River Festival has established itself as a festival of the 21st Century. A new environmental festival has been created just like Dashain and Tihar but not celebrated only by playing cards and drinking Jaad,” says Ale. The festival started in 2001. This year, on June 5, it coincided with the World Environment Day, and ended on August 21, which happened to be a Saturday. The events included cleaning the riverbanks and planting trees along the Bagmati, an anti-plastic campaign, training on making compost fertilizer and rallies. The festival sponsored competitions for photography, essay writing and poetry, plus cycle races, kayaking and rafting. “We want this festival to stand out in the national calendar,” adds Ale. “It’ll be a platform for all concerned civilians to work together for the betterment of our rivers as well as to promote new avenues for tourism.” Ale hopes the festival will extend to other rivers in the Valley, such as the Bishnumati and the Manhara, in later years. This year the trust was able to involve about 70 organizations, including 21 media houses, for the cause of the Bagmati.

42 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly How the adventure buff turned into a conservationist is a very interesting story. If it hadn’t been for his engineer friend, Pranab Shah, Ale would probably have joined the army, much like his father. After com- pleting school in Waling, Syangja, he went to study at the Indian Army Thaman Hostel in Dehradun and the Nina Thapa Hostel in Gorakhpur. He then returned to Waling, where he taught as a volunteer and gave football lessons to young students. In 1982, Shah convinced him to come to Kathmandu to study commerce at Shanker Dev Campus. It was then that Ale got into rafting. Whatever little free time he had between studies went into supporting himself with odd jobs—playing football for local clubs and teaching at Himalayan Vidya Mandir. “My life’s been like the rapids, ups and down, challenges and lots of commitment to overcome with every single expedition. I have been a full time river guide since 1986 and am still enjoying it.” One of the ups brought Ale to nature conservation, when he worked for Royal Bardia National Park from 1987 to 2000. In the recent years, Ale has become a vocal critic of government plans to develop huge dams on major rivers. Apart from conservation issues, the plans would adversely affect his rafting business. “Nepal is still a Mecca for white water rafting,” says Ale, “but the government has only been thinking about hydro dollars that it can make from huge dams, which affect the natural habitat, along with rafting tourism. The higher the dam,” he says, “the higher the money, and there’s more chal khel of the politicians.” He adds, “The government officials haven’t realized that our natural resources should be saved for future generations. Develop- ment should be taking place at a balance with nature.” Ale’s dream is to get the government to declare the Karnali River as a Himalayan River Heritage and then generate income by promot- ing tourism in the area. That would preserve many rare species in the river. The Karnali still has dolphins, sahar fish, gharyals where it runs along Royal Bardia National Park, which houses the biggest Asiatic elephant ever recorded. Nepal’s nomadic Raute tribe and fishermen tribe of Rajis also live along the river. “Late King Birendra declared Bardia a ‘Gift to the Living Earth,’ but that has hardly been realized,” he says. “The Karnali is the only existing free- flowing river that is of significant cultural value, as it runs right from the Tibetan plateau along Kailash and Mansarovar and is a tributary of the Ganga. Building a dam along Karnali, which rates among the top five rafting rivers in the world, is like cutting the vein of the earth.” “When I die, Karnali is where I want to be cremated,” says Ale. We hope that’s a long time in the future. Ale still has miles to go before he sleeps. nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 43 CITY ThisWeek EVENTS ART EXHIBITION EXHIBITIONS @LOTUS

Lotus Gallery presents a joint exhi- bition by Lama Tenzing Norbu, Tsering Nyanduk and Ang Sang. Tenzing Norbu’s stunning Dolpo landscapes were featured in the Academy award nominated film, “CARAVAN.” Tsering Nyanduk, an innovative young Tibetan painter paints primarily in oils. His work is inspired by MALAYSIAN French impressionism as well as the culturally rich Tibet, where he lives and paints. Finally Ang Sang is a Food Festival graduate of Fine Arts Tibet University and Malaysia is a land of many flavors, traditions and community struc- won the first prize at the contemporary Tibetan Exhibition in Beijing. His spices and tastes. It’s cuisine has tures, they have also blended to- unusual images are achieved by combining traditional wood block drawn elements from the con- gether to create contemporary printmaking with brushwork. Honoring centuries old Tibetan tradition, stituent cultures of the country Malaysia’s unique diverse heri- he applies mineral pigments of turquoise, lapis, topaz and coral to his itself as well as from the neighbor- tage. The culinary styles, the canvasses. With unique artistic charm in each of the three, these artists ing states to produce what many hypnotic music along with col- are fast gaining worldwide attention among art collectors. people consider to be the most de- orful and elaborately dressed At the Lotus Gallery, Thamel. Opening on August 22. Until September licious cuisine in the world. Fresh cultural troupe incite curiosity 15. For information: 4253646. tropical fruits and succulent Ma- and invite the eye to marvel at ing on: August 28 (invitees laysian seafood are the most the cross-cultural mystique of BUA LUANG only). Open for public from 29 prominent ingredients. The fla- Malaysia. Royal Lotus brings you the August. Opening hours: 11:00 vors and culinary styles of the cui- The Hyatt Regency proudly unique flavors of colorful and a.m. to 10:00 p.m. For informa- sine are indeed exotic and unique. announces the Malaysian Food aromatic Thai and international tion: 5521231. Cultures have been meeting and Festival from August 21 until cuisine. Enjoy a 10% discount from August 28 to September 30 mixing in Malaysia. Malaysia’s August 26. To experience this Play @ Gurukul cultural mosaic is marked by exotic Malaysian gourmet, in celebration of the opening. Gurukul is showing many different cultures. Al- please step in at The Café from The Thai Ambassador Pnchome “Aanamaya,” a play directed by though each of these cultures 6:30 p.m. onwards. For infor- Incharoensac will be the chief Anup Baral. They play is based has vigorously maintained its mation: 4991234. guest on the opening day. Open-

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44 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly For insertions: 2111102 City Page or [email protected]

on a story, “Khuma” by Mohan Bikram Shah. Date: August 26 SHOWING AT THE JAI NEPAL CINEMA HALL and 27. For information: 4466956

Martin Chautari COLLATERAL Open discussions at Martin Starring: Tom Chautari, Prasuti Griha Marga Cruise, Jamie 509, Thapathali. Participation is Foxx, Jada open to all. For information: Pinkett Smith, 4256239, 4240059. Mark Ruffalo, This Week at Peter Berg. For Martin Chautari information: AUGUST 23 4442220 ADDITIONAL DISCUSSION Topic: Importance of writing in AUGUST 26 higher education. Pundit: Dr. ADDITIONAL DISCUSSION ONGOING Pramod Mishra, Augustana Col- Topic: Coca-cola or club music by various lege, U.S.A. Time: 3 p.m. Mohi? Nepali roadmap to live- Krishnarpan bands. At the Club, lihood and peace. Pundit: Dr. The Nepali specialty res- Bhatbhateni. Time: Fridays AUGUST 24 Pramod Parajuli, Portland State taurant at Dwarika’s Ho- 7 - 11 p.m. No Cover MANGALBARE DISCUSSION University, USA. Time: 5:30 tel, serves from four to 16 Charge. Topic: Junk food and food secu- p.m. course ceremonial meals. rity. Pundit: Dr. Aruna Upreti. Open for lunch and din- Continental Delicacies Time: 5 p.m. ner. Table reservations rec- Chef’s special. At Keyman Cine Club ommended. For informa- Royal Siano Resturant, AUGUST 26 Movie: “Les anges de la nuit” tion: 4479488. Durbar Marg. Everyday. MEDIA DISCUSSION (1990). Starring: de Phil Joanou Time: 12 - 3 p.m. For infor- Film@Chautari: 11’09'’01 Sep- with Gary Oldman. At Alliance Electronic Open Air mation: 4230890. tember 11- A collection of docu- Francaise, Tripureshwore. Free Party mentaries by 11 directors. Time: admission. Date: August 29. Chill out Garden. House, Summit BBQ 3 p.m. Time: 2 p.m. Hard, Progressive and Barbeque with vegetarian Psychedelic Trance specials. At Summit Hotel. with the Funky Buddha Every Friday. For informa- WOK IN ON THE WILD SIDE Psy. Club. Every Friday tion: 5521810. Night. At the Funky Bud- Walk in on the wild side. Whimsical ambiance and an array dha Bar & Café. Time: of exotic choices of Southeast Asian cuisine with an elegant Food Program 7:30 p.m. to 6 a.m. Free En- Special Barbeque Lunch touch, at an affordable price and a relaxed atmosphere. Live trance. For information: (Chicken, Fish, Mutton) at music by Abhaya and the Steam Injuns. Price: Rs. 699 per 4411991. Restaurant Kantipur, Club person, includes Wok in on the wild side BBQ dinner, spe- Himalaya. Every Sunday. cial cocktail of the evening or a can of beer. 10% discount for Fantastic Fridays Price: Rs. 500 per person. Heritage Plus members. Reservation recommended. At Fu- A musical night with lip- For information: sion bar, Dwarika’s Hotel. Date: August 27. For informa- smacking food. Jazz and 6680080,6680083. tion: 4479488.

nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 45

Lifestyle

Not many tourists come to Upstairs. This is natural, for it’s ALL THAT discoverable only ALL THAT through word of mouth. BY ADITYA ADHIKARI Jazz t’s not easy to find Jazz Upstairs, lo- Jazz cated in a small, ramshackle build- Iing, atop a shop in Lazimpat. There is a sign hanging on the side of the build- ing, but, like the building itself, the sign is small and obscure. You have to walk up a narrow flight of stairs before find- ing a small, cozy den. The walls are cov- ered with pictures of jazz greats, most of the tables are at floor level and traditional mudas serve as seats. Signs of a project to enlarge the room by demolishing a wall are still apparent, but even so the space is still small. Upstairs, as the bar is com- monly known, has a makeshift feel about it, from the décor to the seats. This is part of its charm. The place is run by Laxmi Raj Thapa, known by all as Chhi dai. He plays bass in the band that jams at Upstairs on Wednesday and Saturday evenings. In the past the enormously popular Cadenza used to play there. Since some of Cadenza’s musicians left for abroad, Chhi and Jigme, the guitar player of the band, formed another group with Sagar, a drummer. They call themselves the JCS Trio, each letter standing for the first ini- tial of a band member. In speaking of the differences between Cadenza and the JCS Trio Chhi says: “In Cadenza our fo- cus was funk. Now we play more stan- dard jazz tunes. Also, in our new band, as there are only three members, we get the opportunity to express ourselves through our instruments to a larger de- gree than we did when we were part of a larger band.” Czech sax player Peter Kroutil often joins them. “We have learned a lot from each other and have introduced each other to different kinds of music,” says Jigme, the guitarist. “You should have come last Saturday,” Chhi says. “We had our six year anniver- sary party. There were close to 200 people here.” Two hundred people in such a small space is hard to imagine. “The whole place was packed. We opened up nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 47 the room where we store our musical the regulars, at least by sight. “The first too are few and far between. There is a instruments. That soon filled up as well. time I discovered this place I felt a thrill regular local crowd, friends of the band Pretty soon there were people jammed of having made a special discovery,” said who spend much of their time there and through the hall down to the bottom of Will Simmonds, referring to the obscure, look upon Upstairs as their home, but it the stairway.” out-of-the-way nature of the place. “This is not very large. The Rs. 200 cover charge The regular patrons of the bar are place is so much more interesting than on days that the band plays is a deterrent mostly expatriates. They come with their the bars in Thamel.” for Nepalis. The music that the band families and friends. Upstairs is a particu- Not many tourists come to Upstairs. plays also does not exactly suit the taste larly congenial place for them as it is small, This is natural, as Upstairs is discover- of young Nepalis, who prefer other, has a laid back atmosphere and is condu- able only through word of mouth; it is more popular kinds of music. cive to meeting other people. Many claim usually only foreigners who stay for a In the daytime the patrons are mostly to come there because they feel at home, longer period of time who come to know high school and college students. Chhi as, after a few visits, one gets to know all about the place. In the evenings, locals says: “Many couples come here in the daytime. They like this place because of the privacy they can have. Because of our rule that all orders are to be made at the bar, nobody waits on the tables, and people like that. They feel they are not being intruded upon.” On Wednesday evening the band starts playing at 8 p.m. The music con- tributes to the laid back feel; the band doesn’t intrude. The band members are content to jam with each other, to be- come submerged in the music they make. The regulars drift in, form groups, drift around the bar chatting with various people.

48 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly

Olympics

Taekwondo, the 2,000-year-old Ko- rean martial art, first featured at the 1988 Star Attraction Seoul Olympics as a demonstration sport. It made its debut as a medal event in Sydney four years ago. As the first Nepali athlete to qualify for the medal rounds in the Olympics, Sangina has already done enough. SAGINA’S CHANCES Competiting in her first Olympic Games, Anything she can achieve here on will come as a bonus. Sangina might be feeling the pressure of carrying the heavy burden of expectations. to land that elusive medal.” The final BY SUDESH SHRESTHA “Representing the country in the Olym- draw will be released on August 25 and pics is in itself a dream come true. I’ll try he Olympic Games are into their the competition will be held from Au- my best for a podium finish,” says the 29- second week. Many sports enthu- gust 26 to 29. A total of 124 taekwondo year-old. “Of course, it’s going to be tough.” Tsiasts here, who stayed awake on players, 60 of them women, are compet- Days before the encounter, she was the night of August 13 to watch the live ing in various weight divisions. concentrating as much on improving her telecast, are through with their apprecia- Though Korea boasts dozens of techniques as on gaining mental tough- tion for the glitzy opening ceremony. Oth- world-class fighters, the Athens Olym- ness in order not to be overawed by the ers have savored the rivalry between two pics could see their monopoly break. strong field. While everyone else was in swimming stars, Michael Phelps of the Each country can field only two men and Athens, she was still undergoing a strin- United States and Australian Ian Thorpe. two women in four weight divisions. gent training regimen in Kathmandu— Amid the hype surrounding the in- This provision should go a long way in six hours a day in two sessions—with ternational stars, not many are aware that making taekwondo a global sport, much South Korean coach Kwan Yong Dal. three Nepali athletes have quietly bowed in keeping with the Olympic spirit. Over the years, Sangina has proved out of the preliminary her ability to rise to the occasion. In al- rounds. Two of them are GOING FOR GLORY: most two dozen international champi- swimmers—Nayana Shakya Sangina Baidya onships, she has bagged 18 medals, in- and Alice Shrestha. And a cluding 15 golds and a silver. The gold third one is a shooter—Tika came at the 12th Asian Taekwondo Cham- Ram Shrestha. pionships held in Australia in 1996. In There is one exception, the South Asian region, she is the un- though. Thanks to her being contested queen: She has golds in the the first Nepali qualifier to last two SAF Games. the Olympic Games and the “Sangina is well exposed to big in- attendent media hype, ternational competitions,” says Kwan. Sangina Baidya is now a He believes Sangina can do well if she household name. She quali- maintains her usual composure and fied for the Athens Games, doesn’t underestimate her competitors. when she finished third in the Gone are the days when South Korean flyweight category (under fighters only needed to step onto the 49kg) at the Asian taekwondo mat to win, according to Kwan. “Assisted qualification tournament in by a relentless drain of Korean coaches Bangkok in February. to distant shores, the rest of the world Now the whole country has rapidly caught up with them.” is looking at her for another “There isn’t much to choose between milestone: an elusive Olym- some Europeans, Asian athletes and Ko- pic win, though with guarded reans,” he adds. “It’s just a matter of who optimism. And the news that trains better and more.” Now Nepal’s South Korea—the sport’s medal hopes depends on the duo— granddad—had withdrawn Sangina and Kwan. Should they fail, its competitor from the un- Nepalis can still take heart that India man- der-49kg category has only aged only its first individual silver medal sparked hope in Nepali since Independence in Athens. hearts. Sangina has already done enough in “A good draw coupled being the first Nepali athlete to qualify with her best form,” a senior for the Olympics. Anything she can Nepali taekwondo instructor achieve here on will come as a bo- says, “and we stand a chance nus.

50 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly

Snapshots BY DHRITI BHATTA Go Go, SANGINA Wondering why SANGINA BAIDYA was not leading the Nepali contingent during the opening ceremony of the Olympics? Where could she have possibly been? Thousands of miles away from the venue: Sangina was still training back home in Nepal. “I am sad for not being able to at- tend the program [opening ceremony],” says Sangina. “But rather than wait for more than 10 days for my first match, I thought I would be better off doing some last-mo- nw/SS ment training here.” A nagging knee prob- lem was another reason for the delay. Sangina will hit the pavilion for the first time this week—on August 26. “I might retire after the Olympics, so I’ll give my best shot for the medal,” she says. Go, Sangina, go. She is, after all, our only hope.

MILES TO GO CHITRA POUDEL, the 20-year-old, polio-stricken cyclist, is a man on a mission. After traversing 32 districts in 28 days on his bicycle last year, he set out on a South Asian tour. He now harbors hopes of doing a 110-country tour. “The major problems are funds and visas,” says Poudel. “Once you are done with those, the rest depends on your strength and determination.” Such a drive will surely take him a long way. nw/SS

ALMOST FAMOUS How often do you work hard to get something and when you have it, you get immediately embroiled in a controversy. Askai, “Mr. Hope,” is EKA RAM MAHARJAN’S creation: a mascot that was expected to energize Kathmandu’s indolent residents to do something about the waste piled all over the city. No sooner was Askai selected as the “model citizen,” the Jyapu Mahaguthi accused Mararjan of playing up an ethnic strereotype. Askai is dressed in traditional jyapu wear—tucking a flower behind his ear. Maharjan is surprised at the contro- versy. “I did not mean to offend anyone,” says Marharjan. “Asha Kaji is a Nepali representative and nothing more.”

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nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 55 Khula Manch Spinner Of Cricketing Yarns

amachandra Guha is an anthropologist, historian, Rand cricket writer—all rolled into one. He has written and edited many books on cricket. His book on the social history of Indian cricket, “A Corner of a Foreign Field,” is his most acclaimed cricket book. He writes extensively on environment, ecology and

personalities as well. The “The Unquiet enced” me, for I tried to develop my Some years back, you said cricket is Woods” and “Savaging the Civilized: own style, consistent with my own religion in the subcontinent. Is it secu- Verrier Elwin, His Trials and India” are (more modest) talents and relevant to lar or fundamentalist? two of his notable scholarly books. He has the Indian, rather than the West Indian, Secular, for the most part, but sometimes also published two collections of essays: context. prone to be fundamentalist, as when “The Anthropologist Among the Marxists” cricket becomes the vehicle of jingois- and “The Last Liberal.” Ajit Baral inter- Cricket has now become a legitimate tic nationalism. viewed Guha, whom The New York Times field of academic studies. When did Review of Books calls “perhaps the best of cricket start to be seen as a genuine You have mentioned in one of your es- India’s non-fiction writers.” area of scholarly study? says that soccer hasn’t flourished in I am a little nervous about cricket be- the United States because it’s the most How did you take up cricket writing? coming “a legitimate field of academic socialist of games. Cricket isn’t played I became a cricket writer after reading studies,” especially of it being caught in much in the United States either. Is it Ashis Nandy’s “The Tao of Cricket,” a the dreary world of post-structuralist, for the same reason? solemn, sociological study of the sport, post-colonialist and post-modernist No, cricket did not take off in the U.S. which wrote about cricket without any studies. because time is money in that country— humor and without any passion either. I which American can spend eight hours had grown up in a cricket-playing and Writing about cricket away from work or the stock market? cricket-loving family, and was steeped in the lore of the game. I am grateful to furthered my interest How attractive a job is cricket writing? Nandy, whose book provoked me to in character over I enjoy it, but I see it as secondary to my place my knowledge and passion in the other writing, which is on more “seri- public domain. structure ous” subjects.

In the introduction to your book of es- You, and some other writers, have ex- Who will hold the record for the most says, “An Anthropologist Among the plored racism in cricket. Has racism in number of wickets—Warne or Marxists,” you have written, “Cricket lib- other sports been as extensively writ- Murlitharan? Will the record ever be erates me.” Could you explain? ten as in cricket? broken? I meant, really, that writing about cricket Of course. There has been much good Murali will end, as Warne says, with 700 furthered my interest in character over writing about racism in American sport, wickets-plus. His record might stay for structure; that it helped me move away which includes biographies of such em- a very long time. from arid sociology towards the human blematic figures as the athlete Jim drama of history. Thorpe and the baseball player Jackie The controversy over Murlitharan’s Robinson. doosra ball, is it an instant of racism in People have compared you with CLR world cricket? James. Have his books—particularly his While reviewing “Lagan” in an issue of Only in part. The Australian prime min- magnum opus “Beyond a Boundary”— “Himal South Asia,” a certain writer al- ister and the Australian public have at influenced you? leged the film to be racist? How did times been racist in their treatment of James and his book are incomparable. I you see the film? Murali, but it must be remembered that have read “Beyond a Boundary” at least I did not see it as racist. I saw it as enter- great cricketers of integrity, such as 20 times, for education as well as enter- tainment—a well-made, racy film that Bishan Bedi, also have reservations about tainment. But I cannot say it “influ- held one’s attention. his action.

56 AUGUST 29, 2004 | nation weekly Movies

subjects into radiant and lively charac- ters caught in mid-motion. Very little Of Art And Imagination is known about him except the fact that he died steeped in debt and leaving a total of 35 breathtakingly luminous A painting of an unknown girl fueled a writer’s rich paintings. imagination. The resulting book was brought to the screen in Olivier Hertreed adapted the novel into “Girl With A Pearl Earring,” a slow a film that evokes the sensuality and romance of both works. and yet sensuous movie with its vibrant colors and opalescent lighting to match speaks louder than any love poem. Vermeer’s painting and Chevalier’s BY KARUNA CHETTRI Chevalier subtly leaves the reader won- storyline. Starring Colin Firth and Scar- painting, an artist and a writer dering what might have happened had let Johansson and directed by Peter with a rich imagination is all it the two met under different circum- Webber, the movie hit the screens in Atakes to produce an exquisite stances. Indeed, together with the paint- 2003 and revived the sales of the novel novel like “Girl With A Pearl Earring.” ing, Chevalier’s intriguing narration with a bang. The beautiful Scarlett Set in 17th century Delft, Holland, Tracy evokes a myriad of emotions bordering Johansson (“Lost in Translation” and Chevalier, the author of the novel, deftly on confusion, uncertain expectations “Ghost World”) has a startling resem- weaves a romantic story around “Girl and high-drama. blance to the girl in the painting. While With A Pearl Earring,” a masterpiece by “It isn’t a true story,” explains Tracy her flawless, peachy skin and full lips a Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer. The Chevalier. “No one knows who the girl bring their own sensuality to the screen, story is about Griet, a young Dutch girl is, or in fact who any of the people in the movie coaxes the viewer into a time who is forced by circumstances to work his paintings are.” In fact, it was a poster warp to a luminous 17th century Delft as a maid in the artist’s home. Trapped in of Vermeer’s most celebrated painting that painstakingly mimics many of the the class society of master and servant, hanging in her room that inspired Dutch paintings of the time. Although Griet has no choice the dialogue is sparse and but to succumb to much depends upon the the domestic drudg- body language of the actors, ery mapped out for the visual exuberance of the her at her master’s movie holds an edge over house. Eventually, the book. Vermeer’s and her quiet observa- Griet’s romance—chaste tion, quick percep- and devoid of physical con- tion and love for the tact—speaks volumes in the aesthetic draws her silence of their interactions: to Vermeer’s paint- Of an artist and his model, a ings and ultimately master and his servant, and to his undivided at- the upper class and the tention. Chevalier lower class. Caught within moves the reader the boundaries of class and skillfully through time, their passion can only the growing inti- Scarlett Johansson be expressed in the pulsat- macy between Griet in the movie “Girl ing colors of the painting of Painting by Johannes Vermeer With A Pearl and Vermeer. As (1632-1675) Earring” “Girl With A Pearl Earring.” Delft buzzes with This film was justifiably gossip, the scandal BOOK MOVIE nominated for an Academy climaxes when Girl With A Pearl Earring: Starring Colin Firth, Scarlett Johansson, Tom Award in 2004 for its cin- AUTHOR: Tracy Chevalier Wilkinson, Essie Davis, Alakina Mann, Cillian Vermeer makes PAGES: 240 Murphy, Judy Parfitt, Leslie Woodhall. Directed ematography but lost to Griet pose for him first published by Dutton (New York) by Peter Webber, 2003 “Master and Commander: in his wife’s earring. The Far Side of the World.” The scenes in the story are suffused Chevalier to write a historical novel While romance seekers find the movie with 17th century Dutch imagery accom- woven around the angelic young girl in sensuously appealing, the less patient panied by intricate details of pigment the painting. Indeed, a perfect example viewers find the pace excruciatingly and paint-making. The romance be- of history and fiction merging effort- slow. “Like watching paint dry!” ex- tween the two is implied by intense lessly. Johannes Vermeer’s paintings de- pressed one disappointed reviewer. looks, touches and silence. While she pict life and lifestyle in an intimate and The movie, nevertheless, is a fervent contends with her jealous mistress, yet mysterious way. His use of lights melodrama brimming with suspense, Vermeer’s wife, her silent yearning and shadows transforms his solitary scandal and wishful silences! nation weekly | AUGUST 29, 2004 57 Last Word Red Alert

he Maoist blockade of Kathmandu bravely reported issues and incidents Valley will begin to bite at some that the government and security offi- Tpoint. If nothing else, the Maoists cials didn’t always appreciate. Last week will still be happy that more than a mil- journalists took out a protest rally in lion residents of Kathmandu are talking Kathmandu—a first against the Maoists about the blockade every single moment. by a professional group. And about the impending disaster. The Interestingly, this comes at a time Maoist threats have already closed down when the Maoists plan to “ring” the Val- 12 major businesses, including the ley, their most decisive offensive. We country’s most prestigious hotel, the believe the blockade will alienate the Soaltee Crowne Plaza, and the biggest people instead of bringing about the ur- taxpayer, Surya Tobacco. T he revenue ban uprising the Maoists are hoping for. loss runs into millions. Thousands of The longer the hardship, the more popu- families once employed now face an lar will be the thinking that the Maoists uncertain future—not to mention the really don’t care about legitimacy, which tens of thousands others who relied on was what the 1990 Jana Andolan was all the businesses for their livelihood one about. Civil society will continue to ex- way or another. The Maoist plan seems press its outrage against the blockade. NEPAL clear: Unsettle the government and force Indeed, it has been a blockade, of both PASHMINA it to declare a unilateral ceasefire. the literal and the figurative kind. It’s also INDUSTRY The last time Kathmandu witnessed been a blockade of minds. The govern- an impasse, in 1989-1990, the Panchayat ment seems unwilling to relinquish the regime collapsed. The pains of the 18- basic principles of the 1990 Constitu- month-long transit blockade, caused by tion: multiparty democracy and consti- the non-renewal of the Indo-Nepal tran- tutional monarchy. The Maoists have sit treaty, were great. Prices skyrocketed. been as dogmatic: They want a constitu- There was an acute shortage of fuel, salt, ent assembly and U.N. mediation. cooking oil and food. The tourism in- Much as we detest the Maoist vio- dustry went into a deep recession. Four- lence, we do see U.N. mediation as an teen years on, it’s a very different story. option. It’s better to invite the interna- First and foremost, the current anti-re- tional community now, when we are still NPI gime movement is a violent one. The a functioning state, rather than have them Main Showroom: Soaltee Mode (On the way to Hotel Soaltee) Thamel Showroom: Opposite Sanchaykosh building 1990 Jana Andolan was a popular move- come later anyway. The external force is Tel:4-273292, 277023, 283644 | Fax: 4-270092 Email:[email protected] | Web: www.nepalpashminaindustry.com ment, and many of its leaders were in- bound to march in the moment we are spired by the movement for indepen- perceived as a threat to international dence in India, which was led by Ma- peace and security. We would like to hatma Gandhi. quote Mr. Kul Chandra Gautam, the When we went to press, the highways UNICEF No. 2 whom Nepalis hold in were still closed—for the fourth straight high esteem for his integrity and sense day. Kathmandu continued to be gripped of purpose. “Wouldn’t it be better for us by violence and uncertainty. A police- to voluntarily seek support for making man was killed, and newspapers were peace before the country becomes a filled with stories of the deaths of three completely lawless wasteland,” Gautam innocent commoners in Rupandehi. All wonders, “rather than face the conse- victims of Maoist atrocities, like quences of a possible, unsolicited inter- Dekendra Thapa, a Dailekh-based re- vention later?” Many may dismiss this as porter for Radio Nepal, charges against a desperate plea for U.N. mediation whom were never established. The from a senior U.N. official. We see more Maoists believed he was a government than that. spy. The media is smarting about the summary execution. Deep down there is a feeling of betrayal that the Maoists should hurt the very people who have Akhilesh Upadhyay, Editor

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