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Silk Ways - Ancient Threads and Modern Networks
Silk ways - Ancient threads and modern networks By Ole Zethner and Rie Koustrup Koustrup & Co. 2007 Raw English translation of Danish text “Silkens veje – gamle tråde og nye netværk” by Ole Zethner. Numbers placed after each chapter refer to page numbers in the book. 1 Introduction Page 5 In more than 5.000 years people have found it pleasant to wear clothes of silk. Silk is cool in the summer, warm in the winter, but always comfortable. It is light, but at the same time strong, and the skin can breathe through silk. And silk is delightful for the eye – and for the fingers. Natural silk is spun by larvae of the silk moth. When the larva is going to pupate, is spins a case of silk around itself. Inside this case, the cocoon, the larva develops into a pupa and at last - if it is permitted to do it - into an adult moth. Often the larvae are called silk worms. However, zoologically the larvae have nothing to do with worms, as the moths are insects. Hence, we use the name silk larvae. Apart from a short description of wild silk butterflies, this book is about the mulberry silk moth, who’s larvae feed on leaves of the mulberry tree. The nature photographer Gerth Hansen has photographed the biological development, and the most important part-processes of silk production and the particular qualities of silk are accounted for. The WAYS OF SILK tells about the geographical silk roads, along which the silk was dispersed. Also, the importance of silk in the history of civilisation is treated. -
Shanghai, China's Capital of Modernity
SHANGHAI, CHINA’S CAPITAL OF MODERNITY: THE PRODUCTION OF SPACE AND URBAN EXPERIENCE OF WORLD EXPO 2010 by GARY PUI FUNG WONG A thesis submitted to The University of Birmingham for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOHPY School of Government and Society Department of Political Science and International Studies The University of Birmingham February 2014 University of Birmingham Research Archive e-theses repository This unpublished thesis/dissertation is copyright of the author and/or third parties. The intellectual property rights of the author or third parties in respect of this work are as defined by The Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988 or as modified by any successor legislation. Any use made of information contained in this thesis/dissertation must be in accordance with that legislation and must be properly acknowledged. Further distribution or reproduction in any format is prohibited without the permission of the copyright holder. ABSTRACT This thesis examines Shanghai’s urbanisation by applying Henri Lefebvre’s theories of the production of space and everyday life. A review of Lefebvre’s theories indicates that each mode of production produces its own space. Capitalism is perpetuated by producing new space and commodifying everyday life. Applying Lefebvre’s regressive-progressive method as a methodological framework, this thesis periodises Shanghai’s history to the ‘semi-feudal, semi-colonial era’, ‘socialist reform era’ and ‘post-socialist reform era’. The Shanghai World Exposition 2010 was chosen as a case study to exemplify how urbanisation shaped urban experience. Empirical data was collected through semi-structured interviews. This thesis argues that Shanghai developed a ‘state-led/-participation mode of production’. -
Subunit: 1.1 Introduction to Sericulture: Scope of Sericulture; Origin and History of Sericulture Industry in India and Other Countries
SUBUNIT: 1.1 INTRODUCTION TO SERICULTURE: SCOPE OF SERICULTURE; ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF SERICULTURE INDUSTRY IN INDIA AND OTHER COUNTRIES. THE SILK ROUTE. 1 Introduction The word Sericulture is derived from Greek word ‘sericos’ meaning silk and ‘culture’ meaning rearing. It includes mulberry cultivation to produce leaf and silkworm rearing for the production of silk. Sericulture is an agro based industry, involving the raising of food plants for silkworm, rearing of silkworm for production of cocoons, reeling and spinning of cocoons for production of yarn etc., for value added benefits such as processing and weaving. Sericulture which includes the scientific method of raising the food plants, production of silkworm eggs, conservation and rearing of silkworm, culminating with the production and disposal of silk cocoons, is labour intensive, export oriented, employment creating an income generating agro based cottage industry providing quick returns in shorter duration and does not involve utilization of sophisticated machinery. The silk is the direct economy and product of sericulture activity. Besides, the utility of cocoons practically nothing gets waste in sericulture, the bi- products such as mulberry shoots serve as firewood and fuel, the left over leaves and excreta as cattle feed, manure and in the production of biogas, reeled out pupae and used male moths as poultry feed and in manufacturing of certain medicines and amino acids, mulberry roots and barks in preparing antihypertension drug etc. Sericulture is a cottage industry par excellence and is one of the most intensive sectors of the Indian economy combining both agriculture and industry, which provides far means of livelihood to a large section of the population i.e., mulberry cultivator, co-operative rearer, silkworm seed producer, farmer cum rearer, reeler, twister, weaver, hand spinners of silkwaste, traders, etc., and is the only cash crop in agriculture sector that gives returns within thirty days. -
To Be Published in the Gazette of India Extraordinary Part 1
F.N0. 14/20/2004-DGAD Government of India MINISTRY OF COMMERCE & INDUSTRY DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE (DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF ANTI-DUMPING & ALLIED DUTIES) NEW DELHI, The November 2006 Final Findings Subject: Anti-dumping investigation concerning imports of Silk Fabrics 20-100 gms per meter from People’s Republic of China. F.N0. 14/20/2004-DGAD: Having regard to the Customs Tariff Act, 1975 as amended in 1995 (hereinafter referred to as Act) and the Customs Tariff (Identification, Assessment and Collection of Duty or Additional Duty on Dumped Articles and for Determination of Injury) Rules, 1995 (hereinafter referred to as Rules); A. Background and initiation: 2. WHEREAS, having regard to above Rules, the Designated Authority (herein after refereed to as Authority), on the basis of a fully documented application filed by the Central Silk Board, Bangalore, on behalf of the following co-operative / federation / associations representing the power loom silk fabric producers in India, viz. (a) The Mysore Power Loom Silk Manufacturers Co-operative Society Ltd., Bangalore, Karnataka. (b) M/s Karnataka Weavers Federation, Bangalore, Karnataka. (c) M/s Bangalore District and Bangalore Rural District Power-Loom Weavers Production and Sales Co-operative Federation Ltd., Dodda Ballapur, Karanataka. (d) M/s Silk Trade Association (Regd), Varanasi, UP. (e) M/s Pure Silk Weavers Association, Surat, Gujarat; (herein after referred to as the applicants), alleging dumping of silk fabrics weighing 20-100 gms per meter (herein after referred to as subject goods) originating in or exported from the People Republic of China (hereinafter referred to as subject country), initiated an investigation, vide notification dated 18th May 2005, in accordance with Rules 5(5) of the said Rules to determine the existence, degree and effect of alleged dumping and to recommend the amount of antidumping duty that would be adequate to remove the injury to the domestic industry., 3. -
Characteristics of the Textile Industry of Two Asian Powers: China And
Anna Antczak1, Marianna Greta2,*, Characteristics of the Textile Industry of Two Agata Kopeć1, Jacek Otto2,** Asian Powers: China and India. Prospects for their Further Development on Global Markets 1 University of Lodz, DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0013.2895 Faculty of Economics and Sociology, Department of World Economy and European Integration, Abstract Lodz, Poland The aim of this study is to characterise the textile industry of the two global giants in this 2 field – China and India and to discuss the impact they exert on the global economy. For Lodz University of Technology, centuries the fibre and textile industry has played a key role for humanity. The study also Faculty of Management and Production Engineering, draws attention to international arrangements for trade in textiles and its liberalisation. Department of European Integration This allowed for further development of this branch of the economy and participation in the and International Marketing, global market of developing countries. Lodz, Poland * e-mail: [email protected], Key words: textile industry, fibre industry, China, India, trade liberalisation in textiles. ** e-mail: [email protected] going dynamic and long-term economic Both China and India are moving to- development in various sectors, includ- wards a presence in the global economy ing, inter alia, standard textile technolo- as well as towards modernity and com- gies. This is mainly due to the fact that petitiveness through traditional sectors. the region invests considerable financial resources in global companies, including banks. In addition, there are favorable Characteristics of the textile internal factors based on the support of market in China native governments,as follows: A bit of history n low-interest loans and tax credits; China is a country in Central and East- n support for entities starting a business; ern Asia, whose population is over 20% n training and consulting. -
Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 DATS in Partnership with the V&A
Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 Text copyright © DATS, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name taught by Sue Kerry and held at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery Collections Centre on 29th November 2007. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audience. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740 -1890 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Front Cover - English silk tissue, 1875, Spitalfields. T.147-1972 , Image © V&A Images / Victoria and Albert Museum 2 Identifying Textile Types and Weaves Contents Page 2. List of Illustrations 1 3. Introduction and identification checklist 3 4. Identifying Textile Types - Fibres and Yarns 4 5. Weaving and Woven Cloth Historical Framework - Looms 8 6. Identifying Basic Weave Structures – Plain Cloths 12 7. Identifying Basic Weave Structures – Figured / Ornate Cloths 17 8. -
Great Spring Exposition and Sale of Silks $139
12 -- A THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: FEBRUARY 22, 1914. Chicago Tuesday evening. After ANTE-ROO- street ECHOES OF THE M tho Usual business addresses were heard from upon topics of science ami several ANNUM- -' Grand Army of Republic Eesenti art and songs were sung In nuantlty. Among the classmen taking part wers Changing Flag Emblem. Kenneth Flnlayson. IU Malcolm, IIIslop. MOTOR CAR McTaggart, Watson, James Howie. Mulr Q y. o HIGHLANDERS PLAN SOCIALS Home, Hamilton, Gait. French and Llnd-sa- .SHOW Next meeting will have a special Tftllthta of Lather Will Hold LR entertainment program. Wednesday Initiation Erenln I.ndlra of the Modern Sfnorntires. t the Reirular Meet-In- ir Omaha hive No. 1K2. Indies of the Mod Place. Maccabees, will hold a regular Iern Wednesday afternoon at Myrtle hall. Date City hlvo No. 9, Ladles of ttv) At a meeting of the V. 8. Grant .post, Modern Maccabees, will glvo a card Great Spring Exposition and Sale of Silks So. 110, Department of Nebraska, Grand party Friday afternoon at Continental Army of the Itepubllc, tho following pro-amb- le halt. Fifteenth and Douglas streets. and resolutions were adopted unan Special Purchases Bring Unrivalled Values in the Wanted Weaves imously. They were prepared by a. Pnlnter' Union, B. preparations hayo been raado with the expectation of the greatest silk season in history. We have committee of three. It. P. Tuten, R. Notice Is hereby given that there will OUR our Wilcox and Joseph MaJllson. be a smoker at the lodge rooms, Nine immense stocks of the best weaves of American and foreign producers the most extensive and varied The members of tho V. -
Dormani Yarns
DORMANI YARNS 318 LORD STREET HIGHGATE WA 6003 AUSTRALIA PHONE +61 8 9328 3050 FAX +61 8 9328 6696 WEB: www.dormani-yarns.com EMAIL: [email protected] YEOMAN YARNS YEOMAN YARNS ACRYLICS METALLICS LUX KALEIDOSCOPE 1 PLY 100% ACRYLIC YKAL 450gm 46.20 REXOR LUREX FILAMENT 61% POLYESTER/39% NYLON YR 50gm 15.00 SUPERSHEEN 1 PLY 100% BRIGHT ACRYLIC YSU 450gm 31.75 STARLIGHT 4 PLY 55% VISCOSE/35% POLY/10% NYL LUREX GOLD/SILVER YST 100gm 15.00 CASHMILON 4PLY 100% ACRYLIC YC 500gm 27.10 GLAMOUR 2 PLY 82% VISCOSE 7% NYLON 11% POLYESTER YG 250gm 36.90 COTTONS MANILA 2 PLY 86% VISCOSE/5% NYLON/9% POLYESTER LUREX YM 250gm 33.00 ACRYLIC COTTON 4 PLY 50% COTTON/50% ACRYLIC YAC 500gm 30.50 WOOLS/SILKS CANNELE 4 PLY 100% MERCERISED COTTON YCAN 250gm 33.00 AURORA KNITS AS FINE 4PLY 24% WOOL 20% NYLON 56% ACRYLIC YA 400gm 34.10 DK COTTON DOUBLE KNIT SOFT MATT COTTON YDK 450gm 42.75 SILK BOURETTE 4 PLY FINE UNWASHED SILK YSB 450gm 40.40 BRITTANY 2 PLY 100% MATT COTTON YBRI 350gm 31.20 TIBET 3 PLY FINE13%SILK 65% MERIONOWOOL22%NYLON YTB 450gm 48.00 PANAMA KNITS AS 4 PLY 50% COTTON/50% ACRYLIC YP 500gm 38.00 FELTING WOOL 1 PLY PURE NEW WOOL YFW 350gm 33.00 CK2 SLUB 3 PLY MATT ECRU NATURAL COTTON YCK 500gm 26.60 TWISTER 4 PLY FINE 100% PURE WOOL YT 500gm 46.20 LINCOT 3 PLY 38%COTTON/62%LINEN YLIN 450gm 34.65 SPORT 4 PLY 100% MACHINE WASHABLE MERINO WOOL YSP 500gm 55.00 COTTON CLUB ASSORT PLYS 100% SOFT COTTON/LINEN/CRAFT YCC 500gm 28.90 FIFTY FIFTY 2 PLY 50% WOOL/50% ACRYLIC YFF 350gm 32.50 SARI 3 PLY 55% COTTON/20% LINEN/25% ACRYLIC YSR 500gm 44.00 ARAN-KNIT -
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750-1950 Identification
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 DATS in partnership with the V&A 1 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 This information pack has been produced to accompany two one-day workshops taught by Katy Wigley (Director, School of Textiles) and Mary Schoeser (Hon. V&A Senior Research Fellow), held at the V&A Clothworkers’ Centre on 19 April and 17 May 2018. The workshops are produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audience. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying woven textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the wider public and is also intended as a stand-alone guide for basic weave identification. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740–1890 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identifying Fibres and Fabrics Identifying Handmade Lace Front Cover: Lamy et Giraud, Brocaded silk cannetille (detail), 1878. This Lyonnais firm won a silver gilt medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle with a silk of this design, probably by Eugene Prelle, their chief designer. Its impact partly derives from the textures within the many-coloured brocaded areas and the markedly twilled cannetille ground. Courtesy Francesca Galloway. 2 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 Table of Contents Page 1. Introduction 4 2. Tips for Dating 4 3. -
Textiles & Jute Industry
REPORT OF THE WORKING GROUP ON TEXTILES & JUTE INDUSTRY FOR THE ELEVENTH FIVE YEAR PLAN (2007-2012) GOVERNMENT OF INDIA MINISTRY OF TEXTILES P R E F A C E The textile industry, undoubtedly, one of the most important segments of the Indian economy is on the threshold of the exponential growth process. The factors like buoyant domestic economy, conducive policy environment and elimination of quotas in the international market are fueling its growth raising expectation of an unprecedented growth level. 2. Economic planning is an integral part of the development of any industry. The textile industry at this juncture needs an ‘approach’ which is based on ‘out of box thinking’ for addressing the issues which might hamper its growth. 3. The Working Group while drawing up its plan for the textile industry has critically examined the SWOT analysis of this industry; had extensive interactions with all the major segments of the industry to obtain their views and has taken into consideration the recommendations of the various industry specific Sub-Groups. 4. The strategy suggested to facilitate textile industry to grow at 16 percent in value terms and reach the level of US$ 115 billion by the terminal year of the Eleventh Plan interalia include – • Continuation of the schemes to consolidate and provide competitive edge to our inherent strength in wide and diverse raw material base of cotton, man-made, silk, wool and jute. • Facilitate the modernisation and technological upgradation of the different segments of the industry to make it internationally competitive. • Address the problem of infrastructure bottlenecks by suggesting continuation of the textile specific infrastructure schemes. -
Subsidy Programs
SUBSIDIES REQUEST FROM THE UNITED STATES TO CHINA PURSUANT TO ARTICLE 25.10 OF THE AGREEMENT The following communication, dated 15 April 2016, is being circulated at the request of the Delegation of the United States. _______________ In the report that it prepared for China's most recent Trade Policy Review, held in July 2014, the Secretariat included information that it had uncovered on 30 support programs for China's fisheries sector.1 The Secretariat's Report noted that China had not notified any of these support programs to the Committee on Subsidies and Countervailing Measures (Committee) and that China could not verify any of the information provided to it by the Secretariat. During the ensuing Trade Policy Review meetings, China responded to Members' questions about these support programs by stating that it needed more time to identify and verify information regarding these support programs. In April of last year, the United States submitted questions to China with respect to these programs and other fishery support measures the United States had uncovered through its own efforts.2 Once again, despite its obligation under Article 25.9 of the Agreement to provide answers "as quickly as possible and in a comprehensive manner", China to date has not meaningfully responded to the United States' request and has refused repeated requests to meet bilaterally to discuss the issue, and the issue of subsidy notifications more generally. In November of last year, China submitted its latest subsidy notification covering the period 2009 through 2014.3 In this notification, China did not include: (1) any of the fishery subsidy programs identified in China's 2014 TPR report, (2) any of the additional measures identified by the United States in its Article 25.8 submission or (3) any of the fisheries subsidies measures identified in the 2014 Article 25.10 submission of the United States4. -
A Study on the Conservation and Application of the Silk Industry in Nanchong City, Sichuan Province, China
Journal of World Architecture Review Article A Study on the Conservation and Application of the Silk Industry in Nanchong City, Sichuan Province, China Zhiming Li, Yujing Yang Southwest Petroleum University, Nanchong, Sichuan, 637001 China. Abstract: 40 years had passed since China implemented a month later announced a project to develop the 21st its iconic Open Policy and reform. In the past 40 years, Century Maritime Silk Road, together referred to as the the proportion of tertiary industry in large cities like “Belt and Road” initiative (BRI). Through the project, Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou has surpassed that the Chinese government aims to develop infrastructure of the primary and secondary industries. Even small and invest in 152 nations and international and medium cities are currently transitioning from the organizations in Asia, Europe, Africa, the Middle East, primary and secondary industries towards the second and the Americas. Following the announcement of the and tertiary industries. Following this transition, the initiative, China has opened up its door to larger foreign old industrial edifices and buildings are gradually collaboration, ties, and economic relations. abandoned and neglected. This paper examines the Nanchong, a city in northeastern Sichuan, is a city feasibility of Nanchong’s transformation from the famed for its silk production since ancient time. textile industry to tertiary or service industry through a According to archaeological discoveries and historical comprehensive survey of the status, conservation and records, there were two silk roads branching out from application of Nanchong industrial heritage, and explore China towards Europe, one of which began from the new direction for China’s industrial heritage.