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artistic historical itineraries B rescia of the rescia B AND THE territory urrounding S area (Trompia Valley and the plain) apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 2

2 Province In Brescia province there are 1,109,000 inhabitants in an area of 4,783 square kilometres. Brescia, the chief town, has 190,000 inhabitants and is located on the edge Valle of a plain next to the mountains. Camonica In the northern part three rivers flow through three BRENO valleys: Camonica Valley along the Oglio River; Trompia Valley along the River; Sabbia Valley DARFO-BOARIO T. Valle along the River. LIMONE (370 sq km, 65 mt above Lago Sabbia sea level) and Lake Iseo (61 sq km, 185 d’Iseo IDRO mt asl) have climates suitable for ValleVESTONE GARDONE V.T. TOSCOLANO MADERNO growing olives. Lake Idro is at a higher FranciacortaISEO Trompia elevation at 368 mt asl with 11 sq km. SALÒLago PALAZZOLO BRESCIA di Garda CHIARI BOLZANO Bassa LONATO DESENZANO ✈

AOSTA ✈ BERGAMO BRESCIA VICENZA MILANO VENEZIA VERONA Bresciana MONTICHIARI TORINO ✈ PADOVA ✈ PIACENZA LENO ALESSANDRIA FERRARA GENOVA MODENA SAVONA LA SPEZIA Mare Adriatico IMPERIA PESARO PISA Mar Ligure FIRENZE

marked in colour. A dotted line precisely connects the INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE text to pictures and vice-versa; for a reading that starts indistinctly from one or from the other. The “Historical Artistic Itineraries of the Brescia Important monuments are described in separate Territory” give a description the most famous and easie- boxes. Curiosities and short historical notes are contai- st to reach monuments in the province. They are highli- ned in small white sections. ghted among the numerous “less” destined structures which encircle and are thus justified in presence. The tourist will at times have to book a visit by THE MAP LEGENDS telephoning and asking - precise directions will be given - you can borrow the keys to the small medieval church M museum ss 11 roads and to see the frescoes. Encounter courtesy, an unjealous pride of a community in custody of many small but castle view A4 highways great treasures; and with the joy of discovey and a magical environment, appreciate the beauty and detail building itinerary far off the beaten path. cm 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Maps for the itinerary are - except for explicit referen- scale 1:150.000 1 cm = 1.5 km ces - in the scale 1:150,000 (1 centimetre = 1.5 km). In the text, only the places indicated in the itinerary are km 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 3

BRIEF HISTORICAL NOTE: PERIODS, PEOPLE, MAIN EVENTS 3 From the Lombard kingdom to the Venetian domination

Originally, the territory of Brescia was defence against Hungarian incursions. In 1508 France, the , the Empire, inhabited by ancient Rhaetian tribes from During the fight between the Italian com- Spain, and the Italian seigniories of the Este the Alpine and Ligurian Valleys, on the plain munes and Emperor Frederick I of Swabia family, the Gonzagas and the Savoias deci- and the Pre-Alps. The Celtics, and in particu- (known as Redbeard), the Augustinian monk ded to put an end to the expansion of lar the Cenomani tribe, settled here during Arnaldo da Brescia stepped in and roared . There followed a long war in which the V cent. BC. They conserved their politi- against the corruption of the clergy and in Brescia suffered the ferocious Pillage of cal identity through the end of the II cent. 1154 he stirred the Roman senate against 1512, a French plan at the centre of which BC thanks to their good relationship with the Pope Adriano IV. Redbeard captured the were Commanders Gaston di Foix and . Under the Emperor Octavian friar in the next year, handed him over to the Bayard, the “the pure and fearless knight”

E Augustus the inhabitants of the ancient pontiff and sent him to the stake. who was left wounded. In 1516 Brescia “Brixia” became Roman citizens. In 16 BC, returned to the possession of Venice and Rome with its armies subjugated the Alpine remained so until 1796 when Napoleon population, who for millenia enscribed their imposed on Europe the new order of the O everyday life, wars and religion into the French Revolution. rocks of the Camonican Valley. With the Restoration (1815), the Emperor After the end of the (476 Frank I of Austria founded the Lombard- AD) and the beginning the barbarian inva- Venetian Kingdom. The Risorgimento views sions, King Alboin descended to (568) the Brescia people as protagonists in the and founded the Lombard kingdom. Brescia famous Ten Days (March 23 - April 1, 1849), * became the chief town of a dukedom. Rotari, Duke of Brescia, was elected King of the in 636 and seven years later The battle between the Guelphs, who enactd an order that codified the laws of his defended the independence of the free com- munes, and the Ghibellines supporting the emperor, ended in 1298 when the rule of Brescia was entrusted to the Bishop Berardo Maggi, who reconciled the opposing fac- tions. * A period of stability, but also oppression, began in 1337 with the rule of the Visconti in which they erected barricades and ended family. They reconstructed Brescia Castle Austrian control of the city. * and, except during the short period of Sir In June 1859, the battle of San Martino Pandolfo Malatesta from Rimini (1404-21), and Solferino took place in the hills by Lake people. A noble woman from Brescia, Ansa, stayed in power until the advent of the Garda. Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoia with wife of the last king of Lombard, Desiderius, Republic of Venice (1426). the French ally Napoleon III liberated founded the monastery of San Salvatore, The Venetian dominion, opened a great and Venice from the Austrian where their daughter Desideria (better market for productions in which Brescia dominion. known as Ermengarda) retired after being excelled (arms, paper, yarn, fabric). The On October 10, 1943, Benito Mussolini disowned in 771 by her husband Trompia Valley transported cannons to the established himself at Lake Garda in Charlemagne, King of the Franks. Venetian arsenal and the paper mills in , founding the Italian Social During the Carolingian period, the inhabi- Toscolano were well known as far as the Republic, better known as the Republic of tants of Brescia built numerous castles for Ottoman Empire. Salò.

Edizione: Provincia di Brescia - Assessorato al Turismo - Realizzazione: Abaco Edizioni Srl, Brescia - Foto: Archivio Abaco Edizioni, Archivio Provincia di Brescia - Assessorato al Turismo (contrassegnate *), Archivio Direzione Musei d’Arte e Storia di Brescia (contrass. #) - Santa Giulia. Museo della Città, di Brescia e Fondazione Cab (contrass. •) - Ristampa: Staged, Brescia - 2008 - Distribuzione gratuita apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 4

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On a clear day, from the hills of the castle, you can see as far as the Apennine Mountains: its location BresciaBrescia dominating the plain, at the opening of the valleys echoing of forges, has made Brescia strategically significant since ancient times. The evidence of past civilizations, stratified below the detritus of the hills, and the archeological efforts initiated since the early 1800s, are rendering a rich and fascinating story, left hidden for millennia under the buildings and squares of the medieval and Venetian city. The creation of the Museo della Città in the monastery of Santa Giulia, of Lombard origin, is a sign of a city that has rediscovered its own history and wants to share it.

Madonna S.Faustino del Carmine

Grazie S.Pietro Ol. ITINERARY 2 Castello Museo delle armi S.Giovanni ITINERARY 1 S.Giuseppe Tempio Pace Pallata P.za Loggia Pal.Colleoni Capitolino

Broletto S.Giulia Duomo nuovo Museo della Città San Francesco Duomo vecchio

S.Clemente Miracoli S.Nazaro

Mercato dei Grani

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A BRIEF HISTORY Prehistoric findings going back to the end of the Bronze Age (1200) have been discovered on the castle hill. At the beginning of the II cent. BC, the Celtic state of the Cenomans federated with Rome, obtaining Roman citizenship under Caesar (49 BC). From the VI cent. Brescia was a Lombard dukedom: the Lombard king, TOURIST INFORMATION Desiderio, founded (VIII cent.) the monastery of San Salvatore-Santa Giulia. www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo The Commune of Brescia came into existence after the year 1000 and was Provincia di Brescia - protagonist in the leagues between the cities against the emperors who, since Assessorato al Turismo Redbeard, descended into Italy threatening the autonomy of the communes. In Via Musei, 32 - 25121 Brescia 1237-49 the surrounding wall assumed dimensions which remained unchanged 0303749438 Fax 0303749982 for centuries. After the domination by the Viscontis from (1337-1426), [email protected] interrupted in 1404-21 by Sir Pandolfo Malatesta from Rimini, Brescia gave Ufficio IAT itself to Venice. In that century the construction of the monumental Loggia Via Musei, 32 - 25121 Brescia Square was started. During the warfare of the league of Cambrai, Brescia 0303749916 suffered a ferocious plunder. There then followed (1516) the “flattening” Fax 0303749982 knocking down every structure to clear the land outside the wall. Comune di Brescia - In 1823 excavations were undertaken which brought to light the Ufficio Turistico Piazza Loggia, 6 - 25121 Brescia Capitoline (of Jupiter) Temple. From March 23 to April 1, 0302400357 1849 Brescia was the protagonist in the Ten Day Fax 0303773773 Rising, for which it merited the name the “Lioness of Italy”. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 6

6 From the Roman Empire to the Lombard Kingdom

On the slopes of the Cidneo hill, dominated by the Castello, the bright Roman city with the Tempio di Vespasiano and the theatre with 15 thousand seats - In the monastero di Santa Giulia, founded by Desiderius, there grows the Museo della Città

naos, with six Corinthian Palazzo Martinengo 11 columns, introduces the cells Cesaresco Novarino (XVI- dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and XVII cent., branch of the Minerva. A fourth cell was Provincial Office of Tourism destroyed perhaps during an and art exhibits) is easily reco- enlargement of the teatro (I st gnized by the Martinengo cent. AD), where the cavea family’s eagles sculpted on ITINERARY hosted 15 thousand specta- the portal by the Carras (1678). # tors. This area, together with the nearby Palazzo The decuman (main will become an archeologic M Along via Musei we street) of ancient Brixia ran 4 Roman Park, unique in come to the Monastero di and a half meters under the Europe. Santa Giulia, in which the existing via Musei and thus On the corner of via history of Brescia is stratified the Tempio Capitolino (73 Musei and piazza del Foro, in the Roman, Lombard and AD), built upon the preceding Renaissance eras and which st republican temple (I cent. is the seat of the Museo BC) which keeps an important THE MANY JOBS della Città. cell rich in frescoes and OF THE EMPEROR Exit the museum into mosaics, appeared even more Piazza Tebaldo towering to passers by of two rom the dedication on the pediment of Tempio Bursato and see the thousand years ago. FCapitolino we immedia- Renaissance façade of Discovered in 1823, it was tely recognize the name Palazzo Cigola (tela- remodelled from 1939-43 Vespasianus, preceded by Caesar and followed by mons on the south integrating its terracotta brick Augustus; the emperors inheri- portal). Here, the structure with the whiteness ted the names of the two initia- of marble. The pro- tors of the empire. The abbre- viations indicate the ancient republic offices that the Emperor (imp.) held: Pontifex Maximus (pont.max.), tribunes of the people (tr.potest., tribuni- cial power), consul (cos.) and censor (censor). P.P. stands for father of the homeland (pater patriae). The numbers indicate # the number of years he held each office and allow for precise dating: 73 AD. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 7

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foto qui ai lati: •

(1525). The crypt was constructed on the pre-existing Here died Ermengarda level of a Roman “domus” in the VIII cent. to collect disowned by Charlemagne the relics of Santa Giulia. In the XV cent., the Coro delle monache (nuns) The Monastero di Santa Giulia was was added, sacrificing the façade of the basilica. It founded in 753 by the last Lombard was frescoed by Floriano Ferramola and King Desiderius. Here, his dau- later connected to the church of ghter, Desiderata (Manzoni cal- Santa Giulia (end of the XVI led her Ermengarda.) who was cent.). disowned by the King of the The sacellum of Santa Maria Franks, Charlemagne, suffe- in Solario (XII cent.), with its red great sadness. octagonal lantern tower with The visit includes the basili- small columns, probably con- ca of San Salvatore (VIII tained the treasure of the nuns. On cent., enlarged in the XII the ground floor a Roman serves cent.), three naves enclosed as the central pillar. In the room above, there by semicircular apses, with are three semicircular apsidioles frescoed by columns partly coming from Ferramola (1513-24). ancient Roman buildings (Ravenna Around the Renaissance cloister northeast styled capitals, VI cent. on the first of the monastery, the Museo della Città has two on the left). Fragments of fre- taken shape. Different section tell the scoes from the Carolingian period history of the town and of its territory. are visible. There are frescoes by Opening time: 9.30-17.30 wintertime, 10- Paolo da Cailina Junior (XVI cent.) 18 summertime. Closed Monday. and, at the base of the bell tower, the Life of St. Obizio by Romanino

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From the Roman Empire... by the cylindrical Mirabella Tower (XIII cent. on a square late-Roman base), owes its pre- sent shape to the intervention by the Viscontis (XIV cent.: the stronghold next to Mirabella and the Prisoner Tower) and to the Venetians (XVI cent.).

M The stronghold hosts the Museo delle armi antiche * (ancient arms), among the most significant displays in Europe, which exhibits 580 of the 1,090 pieces collected from 1920-on Burgundian knight Bayard, 11 by the manufacturer of wounded in the pillage of Palazzolo Luigi Marzoli. The rich Brescia in 1512, was cured . collection gives a description of In Piazzale Arnaldo da Brescia the evolution of arms and # is the monument for the armour from 1400 to 1500, up Augustinian friar who was bur-

ITINERARY to the luxurious tournament of Rome (end of the XVIII-1870) ned at the stake in 1155 . The armour. The two reinforcement as seen in documents, antiques Mercato dei grani (grain), squads formed by foot soldiers and paintings. Among the last of 1823, porticos were at the and knights are noteworthy; these, the four by Faustino Joli level of the flatbedded carts. note also the parade-round dedicated to the Ten Days of From Santa Giulia, by shield, 1563, embossed with Brescia in 1849 are remarkable. way of via Piamarta, go up the gold painted parts, which repre- Open from June to Sept 10-13 castle hill to San Pietro in sents the Triumph of Bacchus. and 14-18, from Oct to May Oliveto, which contains pain- One section is dedicated to 9:30-13:00 and 14:30-17:00, tings by Paolo da Cailina and firearms. Open from June to closed Monday. . In the east cloi- Sept 10-13 and 14:00-18, from ster (XVI cent.) there is a well Oct to May 9:30-13:00 and Going down into the city with two buckets, one which 14:30-17:00, closed Monday. through the Sant’Urbano comes up while the other goes In the main room of the district, we arrive at the down, commonly cited by Grande Miglio (corn storage, XVI Broletto complex, which since Brescians when talking about cent.) is the Museo del the XII century has seen the two people in irremediable con- Risorgimento, which runs history of the city pass by. The flict. through the events from the Torre del Pègol, 53.7 m high, French Revolution to the seizing is from 1187; the rest of the The Castello, dominated

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structure was built in the first half of the XIII century. The four-lights window, left on the south side of the courtyard shows symbols of the months on its lateral capi- tals, from the antelamic school. At the beginning of the with authorization: for informa- Papal Court Benedetto XV cent., Pandolfo Malatesta tion contact the Uffico turistico Marcello (1686-1739), a had the beautiful gothic log- in Piazza Loggia) there are a Venetian musician, buried in gia built in the north courtyard hundred frescoed (XIII cent.) the church of San Giuseppe and called upon Gentile da Knight Prisoners, chained and (XVI cent.) with several Fabriano to fresco a chapel exposed to the mocking public, dedicated to the arts and tra- which has disappeared: a frag- with cowbells, in one of the ders. The annexed convent is ment of the work of the painter many episodes of the battles the seat of the Museo dioce- was discovered in 1985. Of between the Guelfs and the sano-Museo del tessuto the church of Sant’Agostino Ghibellines; in the same section liturgico. Not far, under the there remains only the façade is a 1300s fresco with Berardo Porta Bruciata (Burnt Gate), is in late-Gothic terracotta Maggi’s Peace and a the small church of San bricks(XV cent.). Crucifixion by the Giotto Faustino in Riposo (XII cent.), At the beginning of the school. which has a characteristic roof XVII cent., the ashlar-hewn arca- Facing the “Broletto” in made with denticulated terra- de, with a looming loggia was the square, we note the ele- erected north of the courtyard; gant Venetian three-lights win- cotta bricks. the ancient chief magistrate’s dow on the Casa dei room was partitioned and cove- Camerlenghi, who had to red with a false ceiling. host also the Treasurer of the Between this and the towering roof with trusses (accessible apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 10

10 The Loggia at the centre of a city of bell towers

The two cathedrals boast of record dimen- sions - The popular quarters of Carmine, the medieval torre della Pallata, the ancient church of San Francesco - A treasure chest of paintings collected in the Pinacoteca

22 The Loggia, symbol of the city, was under construc- tion from 1492 by the archi- is the new Monte di Pietà. In tectural plans of Formentone 1480 the commune ordered from Vicenza. In 1575 a fire that the façades of these buil- destroyed the lead dome dings be decorated with ITINERARY (reconstructed only in 1914). Roman memorial plaques, The building, in marble siding - which transformed Monte di richly decorated in relief - Pietà into the first outdoor from the caves in Brescia, has lapidary museum in Italy. Passing under the clock a body (1503-08) on its north Arcades with the Torre tower, we arrive in Piazza side once containing the dell’Orologio (1546) constitu- Paolo VI. The cupola of stairs leading to the living te the east side of Piazza Duomo Nuovo (XVII-XIX room, the function of which Loggia. They are decorated cent.), erected by Vantini, with has since the end of 1800 with two wooden figures cove- its interior height of 80 been assumed by an internal red with metal (1581) which meters, is number three in staircase. strike the bell on the hour. Italy after San Pietro in Rome On the south side of the and Santa Maria del Fiore in square is the elegantly distin- . Noteworthy in the guished small loggia of interior are the Tomb of St. Monte di Pietà (pawnshop Apollonius, richly sculpted from the end of the XV cent.). (1510), two organ wings by East of that which was added Romanino and a Sacrifice of at the end of the XVI century Isaac by Moretto. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 11

11 1490 portal): the interior The Duomo Vecchio, In via Mazzini, behind the decorated in the XVIII cent. in also called Rotonda, is the apse of Duomo Nuovo, the baroque style; a work of most significant circular Biblioteca Queriniana (XVIII Paolo da Cailina Junior (first Romanesque temple in exi- cent., crowned with marble altar on the left) and of stence. It was constructed statues) preserves treasures Moretto (at the rear in the with “medolo”, a local stone, among which is the Purple right nave). A side door on the by the Comacine masters Evangeliarium (Wulfila’s Bible) left leads to the cloister and around 1100. In the entry made in Ravenna style in the from here you can reach the there is the sepulchral monu- VI century. Open 8:30-12:00 sanctuary. ment of Berardo Maggi (begin- and 14-18:00, Sat 8:30- ning of the (XIV cent.), in red 12:30, Sun and Mon closed. San Giovanni marble. Under the presbytery There are some chur- Evangelista (XV cent.) (added with a transept at the ches to visit in the working- displays eleven paintings by end of the XV cent.) is the class neighbourhood of Crypt of St. Filastrio, which Carmine, along via San comes from the primitive basi- Faustino once crossed by the THE CHURCHES lica (VIII cent.). Above the Garza stream. main altar, there is the THAT DISAPPEARED Assumption by Moretto, also San Faustino n the right arm of the tran- the artist of the paintings in Maggiore (circa 1700, XII sept of the Duomo Vecchio the chapel on the right. The cent. bell tower), dedicated to Othere is a big canvass pain- chapel on the left jealously the patrons of the city, ting by (1656) preserves the treasury of Faustino and Giovita, in which represents the removal in 1581 of some Brescian bishops’ the Crosses, including the custody of the Processional relics, from the vanished church Cross of the Field (XII cent.: it Standard from Romanino’s of Santo Stefano in Arce (which was hoisted on the Carroccio Holy Sacrament School. was in the Castello) and the (triumphal wagon), which is vanished Cathedral of San Pietro de Dom. The procession, exhibited only on particular Santa Maria del in which San Carlo Borromeo occasions in the Duomo Carmine (XV cent.) with a participates, is entering the Nuovo. beautiful Renaissance portal, Rotonda through the portal under the bell tower (collapsed is decorated with frescoes by in 1708). Foppa (third chapel on the right) and Ferramola in the chapel accessible through the courtyard behind the apse which is on vicolo Manzone where you can ask about a visit.

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12 The Loggia at the centre...

Romanino and another eleven by Moretto, which are symme- trically arranged in the chapel of the Holy Sacrament. Other works by them can be found in the church.

Along corso Mameli, we find the Pallata, a 1200s cent. by the architect tower, 31 m high (the battle- Zurlengo). On the wall on the ments are from the XV cent.). right are 1300s frescoes (the The Fontana dei Fiumi Pietà, reminds us of Giotto, The church of the Santi (1596) is at the base, built by and above this, the School of Nazaro e Celso (XVIII cent.) 22 Antonio Carra and designed Theology. Higher up are displays the Averoldi polypty- by Bagnadore. series of Angels and Saints). ch on the main altar, a work At the church of Santa The second chapel on the left by the young Titian (1522) Maria della Pace (XVIII and preserves various works cent.), we advise visiting the is in custody of the precious by Moretto. In Santa Maria cloister (number 10, via Lombard wood panel, the ITINERARY dei Miracoli, on corso Martiri Pace), which belonged to the Crucifixion (XIV cent.). Here 1400s Palazzo Colleoni of there are also paintings by della Libertà, we find a magni- the famous leader Moretto and Romanino, who is ficent marble façade, finely Bartolomeo. His coat of arms also the artist for the main sculpted by Giangasparo is recognizable on the capitals altar-piece. The choir was and on the precious, painted inlaid by Filippo Morari da wood boards on the portico Soresina (1493). Through a ceiling. side door on the right we arri- ve in the beautiful Gothic- At the end of via Pace is Lombard cloister (1393), in the church of San Francesco terracotta by the Comacine d’Assisi (XIII cent., brought to master Guglielmo Frizzoni da its present form in the XV Campione. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 13

13 Art and spirituality he Collection of Modern & Contemporary Art (Association Tof Art and Spirituality, via Monti 9): there are more than 400 works by major contemporary artists * from Italy and abroad collected to commemorate Pope Paul VI. There are works by Chagall, Dalì, Matisse, De Pedoni (end of the XV cent.). Chirico, Picasso (Hans Hartung: T.1966 acrylic on canvas Across Piazza del ). Visits must be booked in advance - Tel. Mercato (recently renovated), 030 3753002 which has the fontana dei * Donegani (1822) at its centre and the Palazzo Martinengo ded in a house not far away. Jacopo Tintoretto. Palatini (XVII cent.) at the Next to the Courthouse, rear, we come to Piazza M The Pinacoteca Tosio in the church of Vittoria, designed by the Martinengo was reopened to Sant’Alessandro (XVIII cent.), architect Marcello Piacentini the public in 1994 after much as well as the Deposition by (1932). An entire district of restoration work on the Civerchio, is the remarkable alleys and small squares was Palazzo Martinengo da Barco Annunciation by Jacopo Bellini demolished. (XVI cent.) which hosts the gal- (XV cent.), in a refined gold- lery. painted Gothic frame. We return to the east Not far is the church of section of the historical cen- Sant’Angela Merici, built on tre: in the small streets south the site where the first of piazza del Foro we find the Christian martyrs were church of San Clemente, buried. It was destroyed by remodelled in 1840 by bombing and rebuilt. It con- Vantani. It preserves several tains paintings by Paolo da works by Moretto, who resi- Cailina Junior, Civerchio and

Brescian paintings in 25 rooms during various eras. In the Renaissance period are Foppa, Civerchio, Paolo da Cailina Junior, Romanino and his son-in-law Gambara, Moretto, Ferramola and he Tosio Martinengo collection includes two Savoldo. For the 1600s there are Bagnadore, Palma paintings by Raphael, a polyptych by Paolo Junior and Celesti. For the 1700s are the painters of the Veneziano (XIV cent.) and a rich representa- T poor people: il Pitocchetto and Cifrondi. Open from tion of painters who produced in the Brescia territory June to Sept 10-13 and 14:30-18, from Oct to May 9:30-13:00 and 14:30-17:00, closed Monday. foto di questo riquadro: # apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 14

14 TrompiaTrompia ValleyValley North of Brescia, there is no interruption between suburbs alternating with industrial areas, which occupy the banks of the Mella River. Only beyond , where the valley narrows, pastures open up on the moun- tain slopes, conifer woods thicken, in the background snow covered summits dominate. On the mountain sides, smaller valleys develop along rivers and lakes that were once motors for the activity in the furnaces and forges that produced riches guarded by towers, witnessed by the works of art in the churches. In the summer the herds climb Maniva, where the three valleys converge, from where, with a clear sky, you can embrace a good part of the entire alpi- ne arc and distinguish the blue of Lake Garda.

COLLIO TAVERNOLE

MARMENTINO MARCHENO

POLAVENO GARDONE VT

SAREZZO LUMEZZANE TOURIST INFORMATION CONCESIO Ufficio IAT Via Musei, 32 - 25121 Brescia - 0303749916 - Fax 0303749982 NAVE [email protected] www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo Agenzia Territoriale per il Turismo Valtrompia Turismo BRESCIA Via Don Piotti, 12 - 25060 Lavone di Pezzaze 0309220338 - Fax 0309221910 [email protected] www.valtrompiaturismo.it apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 15

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A BRIEF HISTORY Remains of prehistoric inhabitants have been found in the mountains in the area between the Maniva and Nave Valley. The iron ore mines in were exploited since the Roman era; pro- bably with the use of slaves. The Valeriana road went along the valley and, after crossing over Mt. Guglielmo , passed through the Camonica Valley. In the middle of the XVI cent., another road connected the Trompia Valley with the Sabbia Valley to transport metal to the furnace in Anfo. Venice commissioned wea- pons and cannons for its arsenal. Such an important activity stirred interest in Gardone and there grew bellicose factions amongst arms craftsmen; with disorder and episodes of banditry that lasted from the end of the 1500s to 1700. But there were also periods of crises. At the beginning of 1600, Venice discouraged emi- gration of craftsmen towards Germany with a band that threatened those who left with the permanent loss of their right to stay. Other important productions began in the XV cent. in the Garza Valley (in Nave and in ), where numerous paper mills were built. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 16

16 Casa natale di Paolo VI

The birthplace Madonna della Stella

of Pope Paul VI sp BS 345

sp BS 237 Giovanni Battista Montini was born in Pieve Concesio on September 26, 1897 in his pater- della Mitria nal grandmother’s house where his family was usually on holiday - The churches of his childhood: St. Rocco, the Pieve, the Stella

den ceiling boards; another of 33 the 1600’s with a wrought iron balcony on the façade. Giovanni Battista Montini was elected Pope with the name Paolo VI on June 21, 1963. He died in Castelgandolfo on shop of Milan. ITINERARY August 6, 1978. The parish of Concesio, reconstructed in the XVII cent. over the ancient church, - it is In Concesio a bronze The nearby church of still called “pieve” - is dedica- sculpture embedded in a wall St. Rocco was constructed in ted to St. Antonino. along the street reads,”The 1928 on the site of the small In the first chapel on the house where Pope Paul VI church of the Lodrones. The left is the baptistery where the was born”. This building is Montini family - the name of would be pontiff received the rich in history: it was brought Giovanni Battista appears on first sacrement and to which as a dowry in 1517 from the dedication - offered a fre- John Paul II paid homage on Aldina to her husband Paride, sco of the Via Crucis by Counts of Lodrone. It was Vittorio Trainini. On the coun- acquired by the Montini family terfaçade there are two fre- in the mid-18th cent. scoes which come from the It has Gothic window fra- ancient small church; that of mes on the ground floor. The the Madonna on the Throne interior is not visitable; one was dear to Giovanni Battista part is of the 1400s with Montini, who wanted a copy in cross vaults and painted woo- his office when he was archbi- apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 17

17 CERTIFICATE OF BAPTISM n the register of those bap- tised by the Parish of OConcesio, on September 30, 1897, it reads: “Giovanni Battista Enrico Antonio Maria Montini of Mr. Giorgio and ria Giuditta Alghisi, born on the 26th at 22:00, today baptised by me, Giovanni Fiorini, arch- priest”. The family resided nor- mally in , on the mind the possibility of an plain where the mother ancient temple dedicated to Giuditta was from. That September, Mr. Giorgio (catho- the oriental divinity Mithras. It lic journalist and then deputy) was built between the VIII-IX had decided to prolong their holidays at the house of his centuries, rebuilt in 1200 and mother Francesca in Concesio renovated at the end of the so that his wife wouldn’t be too 1400s; it contains frescoes tired at the end of her pre- gnancy. Giovanni Battista had from the XIII-XVI centuries. Of two brothers: Lodovico, one particular interest in the year older, and Francesco, three second altar on the right is a altar bears a bas-relief of years younger. Deposition (1512), attributed Hercules (IV cent. AD). For a to Vincenzo Civerchio. The visit and information: marble base of the pillar Mr. Giampaolo Magri, tel. his visit on September 26, which borders the left of the 0302531346 - 3384718636. 1982.

The Sanctuary of the Madonna della Stella looms over the road from the hamlet San Vigilio to Franciacorta. Tradition has it that on May 31, 1536, the St. Mary appeared before a deafmute shepherd who regained his speech. On the ground there miraculously appeared the plan of the church to be built; at the centre was a lily with a shining star. Two years later, the St. Mary was painted by Romanino, in the main altar- piece. Open: 8-11 and 14-17. Another church of ancient history can be found in NAVE, at the beginning of the road to the Sabbia Valley. The Pieve della Mitria takes its popular name from the discovery (1951) of a Roman high-relief which brought to apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 18

18 The art of Floriano Ferramola in the churches of the upper valleyalley

A sense for detail of landscape in the Brescian painter is recognizable in the fre- scoes with sacred subjects - Two paintings by Moretto in - The Council of Valtrompia met in the sacristy of San Filastrio

44 S.Rocco

Torre cent.), enclosed in a 1700s di Mondaro sp BS 345 monumental frame . In the nave there are frescoes by ITINERARY the Ferramola school.

S.Lorenzo A turn off to the hamlet Parrocchiale a Magno MONDARO allows us to admi- di Lavone re the medieval tower (XII-XIII cent.), erected perhaps on a S.Filastrio Roman base. Constructed in Ss.Cosma dark stone and covered with a e Damiano roof, it has few and small win- dows and a modest entry.

From Brescia to beyond Isolated but centrally Gardone Valtrompia, for appr. located within the hamlets of 15 km along the river Mella the commune, the church of valley, brescian activity evi- Sant’Apollonio displays dences follow one another. externally and internally fre- Then the valley narrows and soes from the 1500s (Scenes the mountain slopes appear to of the life of St. Apollonius). have been deforested to make space for green pastu- Just past Lavone, we res. turn off from the state road to MAGNO, a hamlet of BOVE- In PEZZAZE, on the GNO, where water seepage state road in the hamlet of has seriously damaged fre- LAVONE, in the parish of scoes in the last decades - Santa Maria Maddalena attributed to Floriano (1510, enlarged in the XIX Ferramola (1521) - in the chur- cent.) we find a polyptych by ch of San Lorenzo (first half Paolo da Cailina Junior (XVI of the XVI cent.); with a apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 19

19

FROM HERE THEY ENTERED THE CAMONICA Continuing in the direc- VALLEY tion of Irma, we pass a village and arrive at MARMENTINO o go from Brescia to the to discover, in the parish of Camonica Valley, no one Ttoday would take the the Saints Cosma and Trompia Valley road. However, Damiano,two paintings by in old times, the route - which Moretto: the main altar-piece also became a Roman road - was this one. It was called the (Eucharist for Christ between Valeriana road and we recognize Saints Cosma and Damian, some stretches with the same 1530), of which the recent name in villages of the Trompia and Camonica Valleys. The restoration and perfect illumi- crossing that connected the two nation make hues of red vivid; valleys was in Pezzaze, from and the Abbot St. Anthony. Mondaro up to the San Zeno hills, then it descended towards The early 1900s’ renovation Zone at Lake Iseo, or towards saved the external lateral por- in the Camonica Valley. tico of the 1400s church. Under this there is a worn fre- sco by the Ferramola school. Renaissance interior and It’s worth noting the small Gothic style buttresses on the arches that have survived on outside. For a visit, contact the stone walls of the bell the parish of Lavone or ask at tower (XII cent.). For a visit, the house opposite the church go to the annexed parochial of Magno. house. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 20

20 ST. ROCK The art of Floriano Ferramola AGAINST THE PLAGUE he plague of 1478 - reports a Brescian journa- Tlist of that era - attacked the head. Of 200,000 inhabitants in Brescia province, 25-30 thou- sand died. The community of Brescia decided to build a chur- ch dedicated to St. Rock (Rocco) outside the city gate to need of restoration, preserves We return on the state Milan. According to the legend, the apse from the original buil- St. Rock lived at the beginning road to TAVERNOLE to stop ding, while the nave and the of the 1300s. He was a and visit the church of San Provençal noble who, after Filastrio, in the cemetery. lateral apsidioles were made giving away all his belongings, during an enlargement at the went on a pilgrimage in Italy and stopped to help the plague- The last commune of the end of the XVI cent. The fre- stricken in Acquapendente, vally is COLLIO. As many scoes are from the Foppa and acquiring his fame as a thauma- 44 Ferramola schools. On the big turge (miracle-worker). In the churches from the same thirty years between 1480-1510, period of the same name, arch of the presbytery is St. every parish or village in the San Rocco, on the road to Rock with the Plague-stricken, Brescia territory dedicated a church or at least an altar to St. the hamlet Memmo, was pro- which merits attention for the Rock; for the plague there was bably built as a votive offering effect achieved in its perspec- no medicine other than faith. In ITINERARY tive. For a visit, contact the frescoes, the Saint is represented for promises made by the with sores on his leg. population after the plague of parish priest, tel. 1478. The church, which is in 030927235. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 21

21

SLAVES IN THE MINES

he Romans exploited, probably using slaves, Tiron ore mines in the Trompia Vally and from Collio in particular. Some medieval towers, like the one in Mondaro di Pezzaze, are probably of Roman origin. The one at the perhaps it came from the centre of Bovegno, built Middle East during the period between the XII-XIII cent., is called by tradition “Roman of the war of Cyprus. The tower”. The possibility cannot small image is mounted on be ruled out that there were for- the base of the altar-piece tified structures to watch the pri- In the hamlet of TIZIO, sons for slaves. In 1557, the that supports the piece, the inhabitants of Collio were the Sanctuary of Santa Assumption by Giuseppe authorized to sell iron to the Maria Assunta (XV cent.), Nuvoloni (1677). Frescoes Lodrone family, who had instal- with a rose window and small led, in Anfo on Lake Idro, a from the XV-XVI cent. emerged melting furnace. A road was hanging arches on the façade, from the walls of the nave. built for this reason. preserves a venerated Byzantine icon (XVI cent.) which represents the Madonna with Baby Jesus;

The communes met in council in the sacristy

an Filastrio in Tavernole was erected to its present form in the XV cent. The fresco on Sthe façade (The Crucifixion) was mutilated in the 1600s to make a window. On the counter- façade inside, note two votive frescoes; the nave and presbytery were decorated by the inspiration of the Foppa or Ferramola schools (XV-XVI cent.). The portico on the south side contains San Rocco Chapel, with frescoes by the Ferramola school (1530), characterized by its sense of detail for landscapes. The general Council of the Communes of the Trompia Vally met for centuries in the sacristy (on the north side of the church). Here are fre- scoes from the XIV-XV cent., including Scenes from the life of St. Dominic. Information: parish priest, tel. 030920127. The church is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 to 18. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 22

22 TheThe plainplain The Brescia “Bassa”, made fertile by rivers and the springs, has been intensely cultivated since the , when the monks started reclamations everywhere. The land has contributed to the fortune of powerful feudal families that constructed residences and castles. The squares or the main streets of the towns are lined by arcades that once contained the fruit and vegetable markets. In the country, big dairy farms stand out, long since the ancient inhabitants were forced out by agricultural mechanization. In some parts of the countryside, rows of mulberry trees still remind us of a not so distant past, when every family bred silkworms to round out the scale on the home balance.

PALAZZOLO SULL’OGLIO BRESCIA CHIARI

CASTENEDOLO ORZINUOVI BAGNOLO TOURIST INFORMATION MONTICHIARI Ufficio IAT MANERBIO GHEDI Via Musei, 32 - 25121 Brescia 0303749916 - Fax 0303749982 VEROLANUOVA [email protected] www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo QUINZANO Agenzia Territoriale per il Turismo Pianura Bresciana PONTEVICO Palazzo Cigola Martinoni - 25020 Cigole GAMBARA 3897832214 Fax 0309959283 [email protected] www.pianurabresciana.com apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 23

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A BRIEF HISTORY Prehistoric villages were found a bit everywhere. The most famous are those in (Aeneolithic, 2300-1800 BC) and in , where in the Bronze Age (1500 BC) there was a fortification. A good part of Bassa was “centurionised”; the Romans allocated farming land to veteran soldiers. The Abbey in Leno provided great impetus for reclamations; it had been founded by the Lombard King Desiderio in 758. Between 1300 and 1400, in the plain exploits by famous leaders such as Giovanni Acuto, Gattamelata, Bartolmeo Colleoni and Carmagnola took place. The economy of Bassa is traditionally based on agriculture and livestock, supported since the Middle Ages by the construction of important irrigation canals. In the XVIII cent. silkworm breeding and silk weaving developed. In 1909 in the skies of Montichiari, the most famous pilots in the world (aviation started six years before) gave an “air show” in which, in the role of journalist, appeared the young Franz Kafka. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 24

24 Santa Maria A4 To the marble quarries di Lovernato Castello S.Maria Guaineri and ancient churches dei Campi

sp BS For millennia the pure-white stone of Botticino has been quarried - The Romanesque churches in THE LEGEND OF and Pontenove - The Egyptian columns of THREE PIECES Villa Mazzucchelli in Ciliverghe - The paintings by OF BREAD Vincenzo Civerchio in the churches in Travagliato legend links the foun- ding of the santuario di AValverde to an apparition which occurred in 1399: a far- mer who was involved in plou- 55 ghing saw his oxen kneel before M From the Roman Temple Upon entering the terri- a man (Jesus) who ordered him to the Duomo Nuovo, the mar- tory of REZZATO, we see to throw three pieces of bread ble of many Brescian monu- signs which take us to the into a small lake. Here the pure white façade of the Virgin Mary told the farmer to ments and even the altare return to Jesus to be exonerated della Patria in Rome come Santuario di Valverde. It from obeying. The man kept the ITINERARY from BOTTICINO. In BOTTICI- englobes an ancient small bread, a symbol of hunger, the church which preserves fre- plague and war. After a new NO MATTINA the Museo del apparition of the Madonna befo- marmo has been opened. It scoes from the XV-XVI centu- re two boys (1711), the lake describes - with photos of the ries. In the new sanctuary, chapel was embellished with completed in the XVII cent., marble. At the festival of era, equipment, plastic Sant’Anna, in July, the appari- models - the extraction, work the altar of the Madonna by tion is celebrated with a proces- process, transport and use of Giuseppe Cantoni (1718) is of sion in costumes. marble from Botticino; star- marble from Carrara with ting from the Roman era when Angels by Antonio Calegari. completes the stage design it was extracted using wooden Continuing on toward the effect of the villa to be admi- wedges, which after being centre of Rezzato we go red from the ex-ss 11. water soaked, expanded amd along the backside of the split the stone.The museum impressive Villa Fenaroli The Town Hall of organises guided tours for (XVIII cent.). Passing between Rezzato has its office in the small groups in the plants. here and the collina di building (1839) erected by the Reservations to tel Bacco (Bacchus’ hill), domina- Brescian architect Rodolfo 0302691024. ted by a small neoclassical Vantini in order to host the temple. A marble staircase School of Design for which takes you to the temple Stonecutting. The façade was apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 25

25

M Museo sp BS 11 del marmo Pieve Tangenziale Sud di Nuvolento SS 45 bis Madonna sp BS 235 di Valverde

Villa Fenaroli sp 4

Fiume Chiese A4 Villa Pieve Mazzucchelli di Pontenove

sp BS 11

We continue southward on the road from the Pieve to inspired by the Capitoline the s.p. 4 crossroad in the Temple in Brescia, which had proximity of the Chiese River been brought to light a few in the territory of BEDIZZOLE years before. to reach the hamlet of PONTE- NOVE, along the ancient via The Parish church of and NUVO- San Giovanni Battista (XVII Emilia where there was a LENTO, where a road goes Roman relay station nine miles cent.) facing the same square, up to . The territory of from Brescia. The Pieve goes is decorated with marble altar these three towns constitutes back to the XV-XVI cent.: artworks by stone sculptors another major marble basin. Romanesque in style with from Rezzato. The most beau- In Nuvolento near the ceme- semicircular apses, three tiful is the polychrome over tery, there is the Pieve in black marble created in the Romanesque style, recon- 1700s by Vincenzo Baroncini. structed in the XV century lea- ving both the semicircular From Rezzato taking the apse and the bell tower ex-ss 45 “bis” in the direction whole, which go back to circa of Salò, you pass through 1200. apt BS_dint ING_08 29-07-2008 13:05 Pagina 26

26 To the marble quarries Six granite columns from Egyptwhich come from the Roman Brixia he design of Villa Mazzucchelli is attributed to the Venetian architect Giorgio Massari. Constructed in 1735- T55, it was decorated with frescoes and statues by the most noted Brescian artists of the era: Scalvini, Savani, Calegari. The left side of the residence goes back to 1580. In the pronaos, the six columns of Egyptian granite are particu- larly exceptional. They originally belonged to some Roman Brescia monuments and were re-employed in the Brescian 55 cathedral of San Pietro de Dom which was demolished at the naves in the interior, with beginning of the XVI cent. to make space for the Duomo Nuovo. arches resting on rough pil- The Fashion and Custom Museum, the Wine and Corkscrew lars. There are votive frescoes Museum, the Gianmaria Mazzucchelli House Museum and the from the XV-XVI cent. on the Giuseppe walls (for a visit, go to the Alessandra ITINERARY house opposite the Pieve). Gallery are open Recent excavations in front of from Tuesday to the church have exposed the friday from 9 to foundation of an octagonal 18; Saturday and baptistry, perhaps from the IX Sunday from 10 century. The neighbour to 18. (tel. Bridge on the river Chiese 0302120975). (1743) has a small chapel visit, in CILIVERGHE, the spen- from the East Brescia toll- with St. Giovanni did Villa Mazzucchelli- booth taking the A4, we come Nepomeceno, the patron saint Giacomini (XVIII cent.), which to to follow of the bridges. hosts in the west wing the the west side of this itinerary Mazzucchelli Museum. around Brescia. In the hamlet Let’s go to and of LOVERNATO we find the at the hamlet of Molinetto, turn church of Santa Maria, from left to cross the ex-ss 11 and From Ciliverghe, either taking the South Tangenziale the XV cent. but of more (peripheral road) of Brescia or ancient origin: here passed apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 27

27

the Consul Road to Bergamo. The walls are covered with table masterpie- votive frescoes from the XV- annexed custodian’s house), ce by Civerchio, XVI centuries. For a visit, go where Vincenzo Civerchio consisting of the to no. 110 on via Martiri della from Crema frescoed the canvass painting Libertà. Pietà on the façade, the of the Climb to We enter TRAVAGLIA- Assumption (1517) in the pre- the Calvary with TO noticing the Hospital sbytery - in the umbrella vault - the rising lunet- (1838, today a library), desi- and the Crucifixion (art school) te of the gned by Rodolfo Vantini, which on the holy arch. The walls in Deposition, might bring to mind the Town the nave are covered with voti- dated 1490 but Hall of Rezzato. ve frescoes. probably from a bit later.

On the west edge of the In the centre of the town In we town, there is the Sanctuary let’s visit the parish church of see the impressive Castello of Santa Maria dei Campi Santi Pietro e Paolo in the Guaineri, erected in the (XV cent.; for a visit, go to the sacristy to admire an indispu- 1400s by the Porcellagas. The eastern façade actually has 60 windows (square at the base and under the eaves) and two sections of stron- gholds on each side. In the parish church of San Bernardino (XVI cent., enlar- ged several times) we can admire, in the last altar on the right, a Nativity by Romanino. apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 28

28 which has been made impres- Feudal landowers’ castles sive by the fact that it was located on an ancient castle site. From the façade of the along the Oglio River building, designed by Gasparo Turbini, a terraced garden slo- The powerful Gambara and Martinengo fami- pes toward the river between lies have characterized, not only with their age-old plants and trees. warrior tradition but also with their patronage The Pieve di Santa and reclamations, the visual image of the Maria di Comella, in the plain towards the natural river border open country, was construc- ted circa 1200 copying in smaller scale the basilica of Rocca sp BS 668 Leno. In the 1920s a first 66 Municipio restoration removed the baro- que additions, highlighting the brick walls of the building, Castello which bear the three semicir- di Barco cular apses and splayed win-

ITINERARY dows. Open on Sundays for Castello the masses; 9,30 and 16.

Castello di Padernello Castello Torre civica F.Oglio di Villagana

Palazzo Gambara S.Lorenzo

Monticelli d’Oglio

sp BS 45 bis A21

From the toll-booth of S the A21 Motorway to Castello Pontevico, we arrive at SENI- GA: crossing the river Oglio in the direction of Cremona, there is a characteristic view F.Oglio of Villa Fenaroli (1678) apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 29

29

VERONICA E LE ALTRE

a famiglia Gambara si sta- bilì a Pralboino intorno al L1200: stirpe di condottieri che troviamo al servizio ora dell’Impero, ora dei Visconti, ora di Venezia. Se gli uomini roteano le spade, le donne hanno altre occupazioni: Alda In there is nel 1506 si fa mandare dall’u- manista veneto Gian Giorgio also a “copied” church. In fact Trissino i gelsi da piantare per the parish church of San allevare i bachi da seta; Emilia nel 1541 devia le acque del Biagio Vescovo was erected Mella a scopo d’irrigazione; from 1606 imitating Tortona Veronica (1485-1550) si dedica Cathedral (Piemonte), which alla poesia, sposa il marchese Gilberto X di Correggio e dà was consecrated in 1583 vita a un cenacolo di poeti e when the bishop of the city artisti. was a Caesar of the powerful Gambara family. On the right wall are a Last Supper by Hapsburg. Rebuilt in the XVII Paolo da Cailina Junior and a cent., it was renovated at the Madonna and Saints by end of the 1700s by the archi- Andrea Celesti. tect Gasparo Turbini. A legend says that in In the parish church of 568 the first Lombard King Sant’Andrea (XVIII cent.) Alboin claimed PRALBOINO, there is a portrait of Cardinal but the name “Alboinus” had Umberto Gambara by already been cited in 514 by Moretto. Cassiodorus. Let’s go back in the Palazzo Gambara direction of PONTEVICO, rises on the site of the 1300s where the impressive castle which in 1516 hosted Castello of medieval origin is Emperor Maximilian of rich in history. It slowly decli-

S.Biagio

Pieve Palazzo di Comella Gambara S.Andrea io Villa Fenaroli apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 30

30 Feudal landowers’ castles

where all the buildings face by Giambattista Tiepolo. Not the square, surrounded on far is the Chiesa della three sides by arcades. On Disciplina (XIV-XVI cent.), the north side the arcades are where lies the tomb of Nicolò interrupted allowing a view of Gambara, who died in 1592 the plain. On the south side, and was a leader serving the there are the owner’s house, Emperor Charles V. the church and warehouses. ned until 1803 when it beca- In VEROLAVECCHIA the 66 me a foundry. In 1843 an Also in VEROLANUOVA torre civica (civic tower), Austrian noble had it rebuilt in the Gambara family was with Gothic windows, was part neo-Gothic style, knocking powerful. Palazzo Gambara, of a small castle of which down the five towers and the now the Town Hall, was built in there are distinguishable tra- main walls. the 1500s by the architect ces. ITINERARY Dionisio Baldo di Pralboino. Its We proceed onward to Going parallel with the sumptuousness is announced and, Oglio River, we reach the terri- by the marble balastrade on after crossing the tory of VEROLAVECCHIA, the bridge that crosses the “Quinzanese” road, turn right the characteristic rural court Gambara irrigation ditch and arrives at the gate. It is deco- to PADERNELLO where there is of Monticelli d’Oglio, made rated with the baroque sta- the first of the four castels of up of a single 1600s complex tues Minerva and Mars. Inside the Martinengos (see box). there are four rooms with vaul- From here we go to Borgo San ted ceilings decorated in trom- Giacomo and then VILLA- pe l’oeil by Malosso (XVIII CHIARA (second castle), from cent.). In front of the palace, which we head south to the there is the vast piazza della Libertà, reached by arched passages through the surroun- ding houses.

The parochial, basilica di San Lorenzo, reconstruc- ted in the 1600s, was enri- ched by works of art from the Gambara family’s Renaissance patronage. The church boasts two enormous canvass paintings (66 sq m. each: Falling Manna and Sacrifice of Melchizedek) executed between 1740-41 apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 31

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hamlet of VILLAGANA (third). entrusted the architect Borella; now in restoration. Turning back towards Sammicheli with the task of , we go to ORZI- making the citadel impregna- In the big square there NUOVI along the road closest ble; it took the form of a five- is the Municipio, in Gothic to the Oglio River, coming to pointed star with seven ram- style. It was an office of the the hamlet of BARCO (fourth). parts. Of that powerful com- Venetian Superintendent and plex, today there remains only bears on its south wall the Orzinuovi has a date of the Rocca (1477), a work of Lion of San Marco. Next to it birth: in 1193 Brescians deci- the military architect Giovanni is the parish church of Santa ded to erect a fortress in this Maria Assunta, with a strategic location near the Renaissance façade and a Oglio River. In 1520, Venice neo-Gothic interior.

The battlemented residences residence. On the side facing the square, there is a low wall with a cylindrical tower at each end. The exterior of the noble Martinengos frescoes (traces) are attributed to the Campis from Cremona. he castle of Padernello (second half of the XV In the hamlet of Villagana, the medieval castle was cent.) is today in a deplorable state of abandon- radically remodelled at the beginning of the 1900s from Tment. In 1700, Antonio Marchetti accentuated the drawing by the Milanese painter, Comolli. There the character of the noble residence, enlarging, opening remain the Renaissance arcade in the courtyard, the windows, creating a great internal staircase. There also square stronghold and the south side with a small bal- occurred a mysterious crime in the castle (1521). cony. Victim: Antonio Martinengo’s wife; Antonio was the The castle of Barco (XV cent.), constructed over a prime suspect. Motive: jealousy. pre-existing fortalice, never had a moat or draw bridge, The Martinengos ownes the feudal estate of but in the 1500s it was famous for its beautiful Italian Villachiara since the XIII century. At the end of the garden. 1300s, in the centre of the village, they built their castle, which in the 1500s was transformed into an elegant apt BS_dint ING_08 22-07-2008 11:12 Pagina 32

Artistic historical itineraries: Brescia and the Surrounding area (Trompia Valley and the plain)

ITINERARITINERARY 3 CONCESIIO page 16

The birthplace of Giovanni Battista Montini, ITINERARITINERARY Pope Paul VI 2 BRESCIIA (2) ITINERARITINERARY page 10 4 TAVERNOLE The cloister of the XIV cent. page 18 in the church of San Francesco d’Assisi The church of San Filastrio in ITINERARITINERARY Tavernole 1 BRESCIIA (1) ITINERARITINERARY page 6 TAVERNOLE REZZATO The Winged 5 REZZATO Victory in the page 24 Museo della Città The in chiesa Romanesque di Santa Giulia parish on the CONCESIO Chiese River in Pontenove BRESCIA di Bedizzole

TRAVAGLIATO REZZATO BEDIZZOLE

ITINERARITINERARY

ORZINUOVI 6 PONTEVIICO page 28

PONTEVICO The castle Martinengo in Padernello di Borgo San Giacomo The series of the ARTISTIC HISTORICAL ITINERARIES OF THE BRESCIA TERRITORY is composed of Brescia and the surrounding area (Trompia Valley and the plain): itineraries 1 to 6 Lake Garda and the Sabbia Valley: iti- neraries 7 to 12 Lake Iseo and Franciacorta: itineraries 13 to 19 The Camonica Valley: itineraries 20 to 26