Chinese Soul Food (LitE Version)

By Kwoklyn Wan Photography by Sarah Carter & Hanna Christine Williams www.facebook.com/sarahcarterphotographypage/ INTRODUCTION “Food is as important as breathing, we must eat to live”

My earliest memories are the ones surrounded by my family, sitting down to feast on banquets of home-style Chinese soul food. Dad grew up in a small village in Kong called Tam Shui Hang, which borders China. The food eaten in this region is called Hakka and here is where my food story begins. Dad would often recreate dishes from his childhood and as a family we would sit to eat and listen to the stories of his life as a mischievous young man growing up in a dusty village surrounded by mountains, farm land, forests and the ocean.

Growing up in the heart of Leicester we, my elder sister Oilen and younger brother Gok, were constantly surrounded by food. It has played such an important part in all of our lives. Granddad Wan moved to the UK in 1962 and opened Leicester’s very first Chinese restaurant called the Hung Lau. Dad followed along with his younger and elder siblings and EVERYONE learnt their trade here. In the early 70’s Dad took over as Manager and this then became our playground; this is where Oilen, Gok and myself spent a lot of time playing with our elder cousins. Hiding under the tables, running through the kitchen and bolting up and down the stairs as my cousins would chase us with dead bees they had found in the window. Every day we got to enjoy Staff Dinner as an extended family; staff dinner resembled nothing like what was available on the menu, staff dinner was home style cooking at its very very best. Dishes would pour out of the kitchen cooked by my Dad’s sisters; Steamed Egg, Salt Baked Chicken, Clay Hotpot, Whole Fish, succulent juicy Chinese greens all served with mountains of fluffy rice.

1 | INTRODUCTION Clockwise from top left: My wonderful Parents, 1969; Dad sporting a sheep skin coat back in the early 70’s; My Nan (Mum’s mum) and Granddad (Dad’s dad) at my parents wedding, 1969; Here we are celebrating the Queens Jubilee standing outside of our house on Calder Road, in Leicester; 1977 on the ferry to the Isle of Wight

2 | INTRODUCTION In 1978 Dad decided it was 0me to open his own restaurant and the Bamboo House was founded. Located in the heart of Leicester City Centre and only 5 minutes from the Haymarket Theatre it was an instant success, visited by theatre goers and the actors who were performing on stage. The loca0on was fantas0c but it was also Leicester’s very first restaurant too. Before the Bamboo, Chinese restaurants in Leicester were simply English restaurants with a few Chop Suey dishes thrown in for good measure. Dad would oJen take me to work at the restaurant and aged five I would proudly stand next to him wearing my white shirt, black trousers and black bow 0e - Dad wanted people to know that the Bamboo House was a family run restaurant. I remember in such detail standing watching the chefs Lam Yee Yau and Charlie (a funny liOle Chinese man) chop vats of beef, pork and chicken. I can s0ll hear the roar of the industrial flame thrower (Wok range) as they fired it up ready to start cooking.

The Bamboo House is where I started to learn about the complexity and precision required to create not just good but great Cantonese food. Staff dinners here were just as good but different, as Lam Yee Yau and Charlie had both trained in Kowloon, . Wanton Noodles were oJen on the staff dinner table; the broth was salty, aroma0c with a hint of heat, while the noodles were springy, firm and chewy and the Wantons, well what can I say? They were firm but sloppy and the filling was minced to perfec0on so you s0ll got the texture of the prawn which sat inside.

In 1983 Mum and Dad opened The Panda Restaurant as they wanted somewhere with living accommoda0on directly above for us (The Wan Children). Throughout all of my teens, every weekend and some weeknights I worked in the restaurant and at the tender age of sixteen I started working full 0me for my parents.

3 | INTRODUCTION Clockwise from top left: I am so in love with this picture, a very young John Wan (Dad) perched on a car behind the Hung Lau Restaurant in his Whites and a Dickie Bow; the Hung Lau restaurant adorning the Chinese style roof tiles; Oilen, Gok & I standing in front of the Hung Lau with our uncle; Dad and big auntie standing next to the nine seater van Grandad bought to transport all the staff. 4 | INTRODUCTION The Panda was listed in the Good Food Guide so we were busy and it wasn’t long before Dad and I were side by side in front of a whole range of Woks. Staff dinners varied, at the weekends it tended to be catered for our team of English waiters and waitresses who wanted Shredded Chilli Beef or Sweet and Sour Chicken but during the week Dad and I would cook Hakka food (Salt Chicken being my favourite). Thirty years after Dad had arrived here in the UK he was now terribly home sick and confident that I could man the fort, he and Mum went to Hong Kong leaving me in charge. Only in my early twenties but with over 15 years’ experience in the restaurant game, here I was running Leicester’s finest Cantonese and Peking restaurant. Unbeknown to me, Dad had been nurturing me to take over his food empire.

Hong Kong had been calling my entire adult life; I had often sat and talked to Dad about his life growing up in the village and of his 3 hour daily trip into Mong Kok, Kowloon, to go to school. I desperately needed; I desperately wanted to see Hong Kong for myself. Finally arriving, the overwhelming feeling of home filled me and it was like I knew the city already. I confidently walked the streets and made my way around the public transport system. Fascinated by the variety of Dai Pai Dongs (Street Food Hawkers) who specialised in a singular dish, I made it my mission to explore, discover and eat my way around each and every one. Modern but Classical Soul Food and I loved every single mouthful. I had no idea you could gain a Street Food Michelin Star until I visited this amazing home from home.

Food, besides being an absolute necessity for existence, is one of the few pleasures which span the entirety of our lives. For this reason, the joy of eating is given great importance. Chinese people pay great attention to the colour, smell, taste, texture and shape of their food; the taste is regarded as the soul of Chinese food. There are five main flavours, which can be categorised as Salty, Spicy, Sour, Sweet and Bitter and recently umami can now be added to this list. Mastering how to harmoniously combine the flavours improves taste and in Chinese medicine achieves the balance to promote health benefits. 5 | INTRODUCTION Clockwise from top left: Mum & Dad with the Lam Yee Yau and Charlie at the Bamboo House; Opening day of the Bamboo House 1978 with Chinese Lion Dance; Oilen, Janine and Kathy the waitress team at the Panda Restaurant; opening day at the Panda Restaurant 1984; The Wan’s posing for a traditional Chinese photo at Chinese New Year.

6 | INTRODUCTION This book was born out of the desire to share my food journey, no… my food passion with you. To truly understand tradi9onal Chinese cookery, its meaning, its story, let me take you on a tour through what can only be described as CHINESE SOUL FOOD.

7 | INTRODUCTION “It’s simple: great ingredients make great food”

To truly get that authentic Chinese taste, you have to use authentic Chinese ingredients. Most major supermarkets will have a world food aisle, but most cities will also have their own Chinese supermarkets and they are well worth a visit.

Chinese cooking requires a little understanding but once you learn how to combine tastes and textures, you’re on your way to creating perfectly authentic dishes.

Chinese Aromatics – THE HOLY TRINITY There are three ingredients which usually hit a Hot Wok before anything else. Ginger, Garlic and Spring Onion. Not always used together, but very often used in different combinations in Chinese cooking, especially Cantonese.

8 | INTRODUCTION “Good cooks never lack friends”

Woks were originally designed to sit over a hole, hence their famous round bo7oms, so trying to get an authen8c wok to sit on top of a conven8onal cooker is near on impossible without a wok ring.

Wok rings (which can be bought in any Oriental supermarket), sit directly over the bars of a standard gas cooker and the wok nestles snuggly on top.

In China, woks are made from cast iron or carbon-steel and season beau8fully, basically the more you use your wok, the more non-s8ck they become.

9 | INTRODUCTION HOME STYLE COOKING

“I’m proud to be Hakka” DAD would often say.

“What is Hakka?” we would ask. “It is the food of my people!”

The have a unique style of Chinese cooking, which is little known outside of the Hakka home. It concentrates on the texture of food – the hallmark of Hakka cuisine.

Although preserved meats feature heavily, stewed, braised and roast meats contribute to the Hakka palate.

The raw materials for Hakka food are no different from the raw materials of any other type of : what you cook hugely depends on what is available in the market.

Hakka cuisine is simple but tasty, and relies on the skill and ability to cook meat thoroughly without making it tough.

Having grown up in the heart of Urban England back in the seventies, Dad would very often cook simple, tasty Hakka food for us (The Wan Children).

“Welcome to the food of my childhood”

10 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING Crispy Ginger Beef Sweet, spicy, aromatic, sticky and crispy all rolled into one dish. Could you really ask for anything more?

SERVES 2 – PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES – COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

300g fillet beef, sliced into thin strips 3 tbsp. 1 cup corn flour 4 tbsp. rice vinegar 2 eggs 1⁄2 tbsp. oil 1 carrot, cut into thick match sLcks 1 tbsp. sugar 2 spring onions, finely sliced 2 tbsp. honey 2 tbsp. ginger, minced 3 tsp. dried chilli flakes 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 litre Oil (Vegetable or Groundnut)

Place corn flour into a large bowl. In another large bowl add eggs and whisk, then add the beef to the eggs and mix thoroughly.

Dredge each strip of beef in the corn flour and bang off any excess. In a deep-sided wok heat 1 litre of oil to 170c or until oil is hot enough to fry.

Carefully drop the beef slices into the oil in batches and fry until crispy. Remove and drain on a wire rack or on kitchen roll.

Heat a non-stick wok with 1 tbsp. oil, add ginger and garlic and fry for 20 seconds, then add the carrot and onion and continue to fry for a further 1 minute. Now add the soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, honey, spring onions and chilli flakes and bring to a boil. Add the crispy beef and toss to coat evenly.

Serve hot.

11 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING Crispy Ginger Beef

12 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING Red Cooked Beef with Rice Noodles Sticky beef slow cooked until it melts in the mouth, served on top of your favorite noodles. A perfect home comfort meal to enjoy.

SERVES 4 – PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES – COOKING TIME: 3 HOURS

1.5kg Braising beef, cut into bite sized 4 Garlic cloves, crushed pieces 2cm piece Dried orange peel, broken 1 tbsp. Cooking oil into small pieces 1 cup Soy sauce 4 Star anise 1⁄2 cup Chinese rice wine 2 tsp. Chilli flakes 4 tbsp. Brown sugar Sprinkle of salt 3cm cube Ginger, smashed 900ml Water 6 Spring onions, white and greens separated, chopped

NOODLES: 500g Fresh thick rice noodle (aka Ho Fun) (found in the fridge secWon of a Chinese supermarket) Or use any noodle you like (see packet for cooking instrucWons)

Sprinkle beef with salt as you heat a large pan with 1 tbsp. oil. Add the beef and turn to brown on all sides. Add water and the rest of the ingredients (except the green part of the spring onion). Mix thoroughly and bring to the boil, turn down to a low simmer and cook for 2 1⁄2 hours. Turn off the heat and allow to stand for 30 minutes.

Open the pack of Ho Fun and carefully loosen the strands of noodles while you heat a large pan filled with water and bring to the boil. Plunge the ho fun into the water and using a pair of chopsticks or tongs swish around in the water to soften for 30 to 40 seconds.

Drain and transfer to your serving bowls. Reheat the beef to boiling and then pour over the noodles, topping with the green parts of spring onion.

Serve hot 13 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING RED COOKED BEEF WITH RICE NOODLES

14 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING SOY CHICKEN WINGS WITH BLACK PEPPER AND FIVE SPICE

Though not the meatiest part of the chicken, the Chinese love the wings as they offer more taste and texture and they are so inexpensive.

SERVES 4 – PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES – COOKING TIME: 1 HOUR

900g Chicken wings 1 tbsp. Ground black pepper 1 tbsp. Chinese five spice 2-3 tbsp. Dark soy sauce 2 Spring onions (cut into thin slivers)

In a large bowl mix all the ingredients together and thoroughly coat the chicken wings.

In a large bottomed frying pan or wok place the wings face down in a single layer, covering the bottom of the pan completely and pour over any remaining marinade.

Place the lid on to the pan and cook on low for 20 minutes before turning the wings and repeating the process (if all the liquid has evaporated then pour over a small amount of water as the wings will need a further 20 minutes) (40 minutes in total).

Place wings onto a serving dish, pour over cooking juices and serve with thinly sliced spring onion.

15 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING SOY CHICKEN WINGS

16 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING WHOLE STEAMED SEABASS

Chinese Customs It is customary to serve fish at Chinese New Year as it symbolises ‘surplus’ and ‘prosperity’.

etiquette This dish is normally served with a pair of 17 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING serving Chopsticks WHOLE STEAMED SEABASS SERVED WITH GINGER, SPRING ONION AND SIZZLING SOY SAUCE

This fish dish is a favourite of the entire ‘Wan Clan’ and is served at every special occasion we have. Dad still has it at least once a week. SERVES 4 – PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES – COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

FISH SAUCE 1 Whole Sea Bass (approximately 1.5kg) 2 Spring onions – finely chopped – Gutted, with scales and gills removed 2 Green birds eye chillis – finely (Your fishmonger can do this) chopped 3 Spring onions - sliced 4-6 tbsp. Vegetable oil 6cm sq. Block of ginger – thinly sliced 8-10 tbsp. Light soy sauce Sea salt Place the fish on a large oval plate and season with salt on both sides and also inside the cavity. Arrange the slices of ginger and spring onion along the skin, not forgetting to add a few pieces into the cavity of the bass.

Fill your wok with 5 cups of water and bring to the boil (alternatively you can use your own style of steamer). Place the plate into the Bamboo Steamer, cover with the steamer lid and place over the boiling water in the wok.

Steam over a medium/high heat for 15 minutes or until the fish pulls away easily from the bone.

While the fish is steaming, add the chopped chillis and spring onions to a heatproof bowl along with the soy sauce. Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan until it is just beginning to smoke and then carefully pour the oil into the bowl, mixing well with a spoon. Be careful as it may spit!

Carefully remove the fish from the steamer, pour over the sizzling soy sauce and serve immediately. 18 | HAKKA STYLE COOKING CANTONESE Discovering the aromatics of Cantonese cooking

The Holy Trinity of Aroma1cs feature heavily in Cantonese cooking – these are Garlic, Ginger and Spring Onion and whether used alone or harmoniously combined, they allow the chef to produce tasty yet delicate flavours.

An authen1c Cantonese chef’s goal is to preserve the food’s original flavour. Unlike other Chinese styles of cooking such as Sichuan where the cook buries the food in a lot of spices and oil, a Cantonese chef aims to draw out or highlight the original flavour of the vegetable, meat, or fruit.

Cantonese or Yue cuisine originates from Province (SE China around Hong Kong), and it is the most widely served style of Chinese cuisine in the world.

A huge part of cooking Cantonese food is to ensure your food looks amazing (Colour), smells fantas1c (Fragrance) and of course tastes outstanding (Taste). Three key 1ps Dad drilled into me when he was training me in his .

TOP TIP: If you want just a hint of their aroma, cut the aroma1cs into larger pieces and add them at the beginning of cooking, whether s1r-frying, steaming, or poaching. The large pieces will gently flavour the dish, and can then be easily picked out while ea1ng.

For a bolder flavour, mince or grate the aroma1cs: The greater distribu1on during the cooking process will allow more of their flavour to enter the dish, adding intensity.

19 | BEEF IN OK SAUCE

20 | CANTONESE CUISINE BEEF IN OK SAUCE

I have many fond memories of this dish and though a recipe developed here in the UK for the western taste buds, it is enjoyed throughout the world by many Chinese families.

SERVES 4 – PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES – COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

340g Fillet beef, cut into thin slices SAUCE 1 Onion, thinly sliced 250ml Water 1 Egg, whisked 125ml Tomato ketchup 1 cup Corn flour 4 tbsp. Brown table sauce, 1 Litre Oil, Frying (Vegetable or 100g White or brown sugar Groundnut) 2 tsp. Light soy sauce 1 tsp. Five spice powder 1 ½ tsp. Corn flour mixed with 2 tbsp. water Place all of the sauce ingredients except the corn flour into a wok. heat on medium and sUr unUl sauce starts to boil. Lower the heat and simmer for a few minutes. Add the corn flour mixture to the sauce and sUr unUl thickened and set to one side.

Heat a large sauce pan over a high heat and fill up to two thirds full with oil.

In a large bowl massage the egg into beef slices, Up the corn flour on to a large plate and dredge the beef in the corn flour coaUng each piece. Bang off excess flour and carefully lower into the hot oil, cooking for 2 to 3 minutes or unUl beef is golden brown and crispy.

Transfer to a wire rack to drain or place on to kitchen roll.

In a non-sUck wok add ½ tbsp oil and fry the slices of onion unUl tender, add beef and the ok sauce and mix thoroughly to coat each piece.

Transfer to a serving plate and serve.

21 | CANTONESE CUISINE SWEET ASIAN RIBS A firm favourite for most carnivores, these ribs will tantilise your taste buds! Sweet, sticky, aromatic and so tender, the meat literally falls off the bones.

SERVES 4 – PREP TIME: 4 HOURS– COOKING TIME: 2 HOURS

1.3kg Pork ribs For the MARINADE & SAUCE 1⁄4 cup White vinegar 1 tbsp. Hoi Sin sauce 2 tsp. Salt 1⁄2 cup Soy sauce 1⁄2 cup Sugar Half fill a large pot with water, stir in the 1⁄2 cup Ketchup vinegar and salt and add ribs, bring to a 1⁄4 cup Lemon juice boil and cook for 20 minutes. 3 tbsp. Honey Drain and set aside and allow to cool. 1 tbsp. Ginger, diced 1 tbsp. Garlic, diced In a large bowl, combine the Hoi Sin Garnish: Sesame seeds and chopped sauce, soy sauce, sugar, ketchup, lemon green onion juice, honey, ginger and garlic, whisk to combine. Place the cooked ribs in to the bowl and mix in the marinade, ensure each rib is coated thoroughly. Marinate overnight or for at least 4 hours, turning occasionally to mix.

Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/gas 3. Get yourself three layers of tin foil, place the ribs in the centre of the foil (Don’t forget to reserve some of the marinade in the bowl), seal into a tight parcel and pop onto a tray in the middle of the oven for 1.5 hours or until tender.

Turn oven up to gas mark 6, unwrap the ribs and brush with the reserved marinade and return back to the oven for 8 minutes, repeat this process at least twice to build up a good layer of glaze. Once you have built up a good layer of glaze remove from the oven.

Transfer to a serving plate, sprinkle with sesame seeds and chopped spring onions and serve hot! 22 | CANTONESE CUISINE SWEET ASIAN RIBS

23 | CANTONESE CUISINE Fried in hot and sour sauce

A quick, simple dish that will get your taste buds salivating. Crispy tofu smothered in a tangy, spicy sauce.

SERVES 4 – PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES – COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES

225g Firm Tofu, chopped into 2cm For the HOT & SOUR SAUCE cubes 150ml Vegetable stock 2 to 3 tbsp Vegetable oil 2 tbsp. Chinese rice wine or dry sherry 2 Spring onions, finely sliced (garnish) 1 ½ tbsp. dark Soy sauce 1 tbsp. Toasted sesame seeds (garnish) 1 tbsp. Tomato purée 2 tsp. Chilli bean sauce ½ tsp. Freshly ground white pepper 2 tbsp. Chinese black rice vinegar or cider vinegar 2 tsp. Sugar

Heat vegetable oil in the non-sSck wok over a medium heat and fry the tofu squares for 2-3 minutes on each side unSl they are golden brown.

They should be crispy on the outside but soW inside. Transfer on to kitchen roll to drain.

Add the hot and sour sauce ingredients to a wok on a medium to high heat. Bring the sauce to a boil and then lower the heat to a simmer.

Add tofu pieces and coat each piece with the sauce. Once reheated transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle over spring onions and sesame seeds.

Serve hot.

24 | CANTONESE CUISINE HOT AND SOUR TOFU

25 | CANTONESE CUISINE STREET FOOD

Hong Kong street food and the street food hawkers or ‘Dai Pai Dongs’ are legendary. Dai Pai Dongs are the bustling street food stalls that are found throughout all of Hong Kong’s neighborhoods.

So famous are some of these street food vendors that in 2015 the coveted Michelin Guide awarded their celebrated Stars in recognition of the culinary, no frills Dai Pai Dongs, as they are quite simply a huge part of everyday life and offered outstanding value.

Delicacies range from Gai Dan Jai (Hollow Egg Waffles) and Ginger Sweet to Roast Pork Buns and Silken Tofu Pudding, all sold from food trolleys in the back streets of Hong Kong.

26 | STREET FOOD CRISPY CHILLI WINGS

DOUBLE FRIED, SUPER CRUNCHY, SPICY JUICY WINGS SERVES 4 – PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES – COOKING TIME: 30 MINUTES

1.6kg Chicken wings, washed and 1⁄4 cup Soy sauce drained 1⁄2 cup Honey 1⁄2 tsp. Salt 1 tbsp. Rice wine vinegar 1⁄2 tsp. ground Black pepper 1 tbsp. Palm sugar 1 tsp. Ginger, minced 1 tbsp. Sesame seeds, toasted 1 cup Corn flour 1 Litre Vegetable or Groundnut Oil 4 Garlic cloves, minced 3 large dried Red chilli peppers, seeded, and cut into 1/4

Cut the tips off of each wing and then cut in half. Place the chicken into a large bowl and mix with the salt, ginger and ground black pepper. In a large bowl filled with the corn flour, dredge each wing (thoroughly coating) and gently squeeze ensuring flour is sticking. put to one side once completed.

Heat a large non-stick wok over a medium to high heat, add 1 to 2 tbsp. of cooking oil, add the garlic and red chillis and fry for 30 seconds (taking care not to burn the garlic).

Add soy sauce, honey and rice wine vinegar. Mix well and allow to simmer for a couple of minutes, add the palm sugar and continue stirring until fully dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside.

In a large saucepan heat 1 litre of oil to 180c, the oil need to be at least 10cm deep. Gently fry the wings in batches of 5 and cook for 8 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of each wing piece. As the wings are cooking frequently turn to ensure even cooking. Remove wings and drain over a wire rack.

Once all the wings are cooked and slightly cooled reheat the oil and fry the wings again for another 12 to 15 minutes until golden brown and crispy, remembering to turn the wings frequently. Remove and drain over a wire rack.

Reheat the sauce, add the wings and mix well. Transfer to serving plate and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.

27 | STREET FOOD CRISPY CHILLI WINGS

28 | STREET FOOD THANK YOU

FAMILY, Where life begins, And LOVE never ends!

Chinese Soul Food is love, is contentment and is comfort; the dishes that make us feel warm and safe. The food I ate growing up with my FAMILY.

A HUGE THANK YOU to the amazing team behind this book, each and every one of you are amazing and I could not have completed this without your unconditional support;

The amazing team at Bakehouse Kitchens, Stamford, for allowing me to cook and shoot my photographs in your beautiful handcrafted showroom. www.bakehousekitchens.co.uk

Sarah Carter (my adopted sister) and Hanna Christine Williams for the amazing food photography. The long days in the kitchen paid off. www.bournephotographicstudios.co.uk www.facebook.com/sarahcarterphotographypage/

29 | THANK YOU