BRAZIL’S SOUTHERN AMAZON: RIO AZUL & RIO CRISTALINO JUNGLE LODGES

SEPTEMBER 23–OCTOBER 8, 2017

Zigzag Heron (Kevin J. Zimmer)

LEADERS: KEVIN ZIMMER & BRADLEY DAVIS (RIO AZUL ONLY) LIST COMPILED BY: KEVIN ZIMMER

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM BRAZIL’S SOUTHERN AMAZON: RIO AZUL & RIO CRISTALINO JUNGLE LODGES

September 23–October 8, 2017

By Kevin Zimmer

Amazonian Umbrellabird (male), Ilha Ariosto, rio Teles Pires (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Our inaugural “Brazil’s Southern Amazon” tour began with our rollout of a new location (Rio Azul Jungle Lodge) and ended with a “golden oldie” (Cristalino Jungle Lodge). My intent in combining these two sites from the same biogeographic region was to provide participants with a real immersion into the fauna and flora of the amazingly biodiverse region that lies south of the Amazon River, and between two of its major South Bank tributaries, the rios Tapajós and Xingú. As hoped, the two sites proved very complementary to one another, overlapping enough to give us multiple chances at many of the more difficult-to-find regional specialties, while still offering plenty of novelties at each site to keep things fresh and exciting. When it was all said and done, we had racked up nearly 400 species of birds (an impressive total for 11 days of forest birding in a land- locked, single biogeographic region), 15 species of mammals, and numerous interesting

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 “lower” vertebrates and invertebrates, all while enjoying comfortable accommodations, great food, plenty of icy caipirinhas , and loads of Brazilian hospitality.

Prior to our arrival in Alta Floresta, I had been hearing a lot about the drought that was plaguing the region. The nearby Cristalino Reserve had received no rain in over three months, which didn’t augur well for avian breeding activity and accompanying levels of vocal activity. Not to worry, because all it took was our arrival in Alta Floresta to end the drought! We landed amid ominous dark clouds, and most of us were only halfway from the plane to the terminal when we looked up and saw a virtual wall of heavy rain moving toward us like a freight train. A mad dash ensued, and we made it into the terminal, if in somewhat soggier condition than when we first disembarked. Once inside, we met up with Alta Floresta resident Brad Davis, who would co-lead the Rio Azul segment of the tour with me, and with Nestor, who would drive the other vehicle. After securing the luggage in waterproof bags, we headed to a nearby rodizio for a hearty Brazilian barbecue lunch, while it continued to rain cats and dogs outside. Then, we were off on our four-hour drive to Rio Azul Jungle Lodge, located in adjacent Pará state, and separated from the contiguous Serra do Cachimbo reserve only by the narrow width and crystal-clear waters of the rio Azul. Our plan was to drive with minimal stops until we were near the lodge, with the intent of arriving at a particular spot in time for the late afternoon parrot show, as good numbers of parrots and macaws returned from their daytime feeding areas to their evening roosts. Unfortunately, the combination of 100% cloud cover mixed with intermittent rain made for dark, gloomy conditions, and the day ended, not with the usual bang, but with the proverbial whimper. The rain also meant that road conditions were such that the drive took longer than usual, so darkness fell before we could reach our intended spot. There was nothing to do upon our arrival at Rio Azul Jungle Lodge but to settle in and be treated to the first of many delicious meals and exceptional desserts prepared by Ivaní, although we could not help but take note of the Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl and Amazonian Pygmy-Owl that serenaded us from the surrounding forest on-and-off throughout dinner, as well as the Great Tinamou that took up the refrain right after we had returned to the cabins for the night.

The next three-and-a-half days blurred into one continuous highlight reel, as we split our time between birding the tall terra firme forest and contiguous campina and campinarana woodlands (lower wooded vegetation types unique to white sand soils) by foot, and the lush, river-edge forests flanking the rio Azul by boat. The lodge clearing proved a hotbed of activity at almost any hour of the day. Between the resident flock of Madeira Parakeets, the omnipresent perched Greater Yellow-headed Vultures, the alternating pairs/groups of aracaris (Lettered, Red-necked, Chestnut-eared, and Curl-crested), the clownish antics of the abundant Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers and the aerial grace of the many Swallow-winged Puffbirds, the dogfights between several species of hummingbirds (Green-tailed Goldenthroat, Long-billed Starthroat, Amethyst Woodstar, and Fork-tailed Woodnymph among the regulars), the potential for Bald Parrots to fly over at any moment (and the many Blue-and-yellow and Red-and-green macaws that regularly did), and the many forest birds that we were able to lure down to the edge (Ringed Woodpecker, Brown-banded and Eastern Striolated puffbirds, Uniform Woodcreeper) combined to make it difficult to ever tear ourselves away from the clearing.

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Black-girdled Barbet (male), Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

The entrance road proved equally productive, yielding such gems as Gould’s Toucanet, Black-girdled Barbets, Razor-billed Curassows, a pair of Marbled Wood-Quail that flushed from nearly underfoot, and a tanager-magnet in the form of a fruiting tree that attracted, among several flashier but more common species, the rare Dotted Tanager and a pair of Fulvous-crested Tanagers (the latter species being one that does not occur at the Rio Cristalino Jungle Lodge). It was here too, where we obtained crippling views of a “Southern” Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl as we spotlighted our way back to the lodge one evening. Forest trails offered up even more goodies, from skulking Rufous-faced Antbirds and Plain-throated Antwrens in the understory to dazzling Flame-crowned and White-crowned manakins, multiple Blue-cheeked Jacamars, and a couple of hard-to-get and very attractive puffbirds (Rufous-necked and Collared) in the midstory, to Pará Gnatcatcher and Sclater’s Antwren in the canopy. Brad turned up a real gem in the form of a Gray Tinamou that had gone to roost at dusk. He had found this particular bird going to roost the week before, took note of the spot, and then checked it again at dusk on our third evening, and SCORE! The campina and campinarana farther out the entrance road treated us to several species that we would not find elsewhere on the tour, among them, Rufous-throated Sapphire, Spotted Puffbird, Natterer’s Slaty-Antshrike, and Red- shouldered Tanager.

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Gray Tinamou on its evening roost, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Some of our best finds were along the rio Azul itself, including our best views of Bald Parrot, the signature bird of Rio Azul Jungle Lodge. We never managed close views of any perched birds, but we did watch, in good light, a group of 7 birds fly across the river and settle into a tree on the left bank, offering brief perched views before they disappeared into the foliage and ultimately flew out the backside of the tree. Those views were a significant improvement on the ones that we had of a fast-flying group of 8 that rocketed over the lodge clearing against a gray sky the previous day. The river-edge forest also gave us stunning views of a spotlighted Zigzag Heron, multiple Green-and- rufous Kingfishers, our first Long-billed Woodcreepers (surely one of the most spectacular birds of South America), a pair of Point-tailed Palmcreepers, a less-than- cooperative Pavonine Quetzal, groups of recently fledged White-banded and White- winged swallows (still being fed by their parents), and our only records of Crimson Topaz (at least two different individuals).

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Zigzag Heron, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Our time at Rio Azul Jungle Lodge produced many non-avian highlights, ranging from numerous encounters with primates (particularly the superb views of White-whiskered Spider-Monkeys and Red-nosed Bearded Sakis), to Neotropical Otters on the river, to at least two species of freshwater Stingrays on the sandy bottom of one of the many clear- water streams that feed the rio Azul, to an odd caecilian (a primitive, limbless amphibian that more resembles a fat, segmented, annelid worm) along the entrance road, to more species of stunning butterflies than we could count.

After lunch on 9/29, we reluctantly said our goodbyes to Carlão and Ivaní, and to their fabulous, intimate lodge, and made our way back across the rio Teles Pires (by ferry) before turning onto the road that led to the Fazenda Cristalino and the Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL) boat launch. Much of the drive was through the same largely deforested pastureland that we had driven four days earlier, but on this day the sun was shining with intensity, and the road was dusty rather than muddy. Burrowing Owls, various species of ground-doves, Picazuro Pigeons, Guira Cuckoos, Red-breasted Meadowlarks, and other open-country species kept us entertained for much of the drive, but it was the remnant forested areas that yielded such gems as Razor-billed and Bare-faced curassows, a pair of spectacular White Hawks (one of which was carrying a large snake), a Southern Tamandua (= Lesser Anteater), and our first Brazilian Tapir of the trip (a scarred-up individual that was reluctant to leave the comfort of its tiny pool of muddy water, even when we exited the vehicles to look at it). Eventually, we made it to the boat launch, where we found folks from the CJL, including Francisco, our CJL guide and river captain extraordinaire, awaiting us. We said our farewells to Brad and Nestor, loaded into the boat, and set off across the Teles Pires (one of the headwater rivers that form the rio Tapajós), to reach the mouth of the much smaller and blackwater rio Cristalino.

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White-whiskered Spider-Monkey, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Once situated at the CJL, we again settled into a routine of early starts, full mornings, early afternoon breaks, and late afternoon excursions (often by boat) until dusk. Two mornings spent atop canopy towers treated us to eye level views of numerous canopy- dwelling birds, as well as extended studies of a couple of different primate troops. Our time atop Tower #1 was highlighted by superb close studies of White-necked Puffbird, Tooth-billed Wren, Red-necked Aracari, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Bar-breasted Piculet, and a pair of Dusky-billed Parrotlets and some amazing fly-by views of several Bare-necked Fruitcrows that came right past the tower. We were also treated to a diverse mixed-species flock that barreled past all-too-soon, but not before we had picked off such goodies as Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak, Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Layard’s Woodcreeper, Sclater’s Antwren, Pink-throated Becard, and Masked and Paradise tanagers among many others. Rain drove us off Tower #1 earlier than intended, but we had no such problems the next morning on Tower #2. After hiking in to Tower #2 in the pre-dawn gloom of the forest interior (and, in the process, coming frustratingly close to a group of vocal Dark-winged Trumpeters), we ascended the 50-m tower into the light, only to find that the moisture from the previous day’s storm was still present as fog settled over the forest canopy. It took awhile for the fog to burn off completely, but that, no doubt, accounted for the canopy birds remaining active later into the morning than usual, and we continued to pick off new birds right up to 1100h, when rising temperatures and increasingly annoying sweat bees finally conspired to send us packing. The best birds of the morning, undoubtedly, were the very distant (but still identifiable) perched Harpy Eagle that Francisco spotted and got in the scope, and the male Purple- throated Cotinga that I spotted in flight, and managed to tape in close to the tower for

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 excellent looks. Both species are missed far more than they are seen during weeklong visits to the Cristalino. Other highlights included the cooperative pair of Brown-banded Puffbirds; the trio of flashy woodpeckers (Lineated, Scale-breasted, and Yellow-tufted) that posed so nicely in the same tree; the flock of stunningly gaudy Paradise Tanagers that briefly ventured into the closest tree to the tower; and a conspicuous emergence of winged ants or termites (I was never sure which) that attracted, among others, multiple Spangled Cotingas, Bare-necked Fruitcrows (including a nearly all-white juvenile), and Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers, as well as pairs of Black-girdled Barbets and White-browed Purpletufts, all of which were feasting on the emerging insects, either by sallying out, or by snapping them out of the air while perched.

Brown-banded Puffbird, Tower #2, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Counterpoint to experiencing the morning routine of canopy birds in their element was the opportunity to observe many shy, skulking birds of the forest understory as they came into a couple of well-placed water features in the late afternoon to drink and bathe. We made two such afternoon visits to Posinho, recording 13 and 16 species respectively coming in to the water, including repeated visits by handsome Snow-capped and White- crowned manakins, and a male White-winged Shrike-Tanager (particularly eventful given that this is a species normally encountered only within canopy mixed-species flocks). Even better was the chance to watch several species of antbirds at length, topped by our eleventh-hour views of the endemic Bare-eyed Antbird and the more widely distributed but even more stunning Black-spotted Bare-eye, both of which made their only appearances after 5:00 p.m on our last afternoon, and just moments before a huge crack of thunder from an approaching storm frightened every bird and our group into fleeing

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 for cover. Unlike Posinho, Lagoinha offers a natural waterhole that attracts birds in the late afternoons, but after three months of drought, the natural pool had been reduced to a mudhole. Nevertheless, the CJL guides had rigged a small water feature that they were filling with water each day, so we opted to spend an afternoon at that site as well. Disappointingly, fewer birds came in to Lagoinha during our time there than on any of my previous visits to the spot, but what the site lacked in birds on that particular day was paid back in spades by the mammal show. We had barely settled into our seats behind the palm-thatch blind when a large, distinctly reddish form materialized out of the late afternoon gloom of the forest interior, headed toward the muddy remnants of the Lagoinha pool. It was a Puma (= Cougar, Mountain Lion), and we sat stunned as the big cat strolled in our direction, then veered past the end of the mudhole to our right, and then stopped among the trees to check us out! At that point, I grabbed for my camera, which was turned off, with lens cap on, and tucked safely in its pouch on the ground behind the bench. Fortunately, the Puma stayed put for another 30 seconds or more, allowing me to snap a burst of shots, although there was nothing I could do about some of the branches between us and the cat that were partially blocking the view. And then, just as suddenly as the feline had appeared, it was gone, melting back into the darkening forest, not to be seen again. Just minutes later, and still on a Puma-fueled adrenaline high, we became aware of the sounds of a herd of White-lipped Peccaries as they gradually approached the mudhole. We sat frozen in anticipation, as the peccaries slowly started to take form. The lead individual was very visible behind a tangle of fallen branches, and was about two steps from being completely in the open when it either smelled us or saw us. After a momentary hesitation, the peccary let out a loud squeal of alarm and bolted, sending the entire herd of 20 or more animals into a stampede. The resulting tortured squeals, shrieks, grunts, and sounds of jaws popping and teeth clacking sounded as if the gates of the netherworld had opened up, releasing all of the demons trapped within. The jaw- dropping one-two punch combination dealt by the Puma and the peccaries had left us awestruck, and had relegated any disappointment over the subpar afternoon bird show to the ash-heap.

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Puma, Lagoinha, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Near-daily boat trips along the Cristalino never failed to deliver special sightings, among the more memorable being multiple encounters with impressive Brazilian Tapirs, lovely Agami Herons and Sunbitterns, a perched subadult White-browed Hawk, pairs of Bat Falcons, family parties of raucously loud Red-throated Caracaras, bare trees festooned with Red-throated Piping-Guans, fly-over Blue-and-yellow Macaws, a screeching flock of Crimson-bellied Parakeets and an equally vocal quartet of Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets, perched Plumbeous Pigeons and Curl-crested Aracaris, and a Spectacled Caiman that had literally bitten off more than he could chew, leaving him with a mouth full of porcupine quills!

A visit to Ilha Ariosto, a large river island in the nearby Teles Pires, delivered a different mix of birds from those found in the terra firme forest lining the rio Cristalino, including what was, for me, the avian highlight of the tour, in the form of multiple displaying Amazonian Umbrellabirds at a lek. These big (crow-sized), glossy black members of the cotinga family are adorned with wild crests (which, when fanned, resemble an umbrella) and pendulous, feathered wattles, both accessories of which are greatly exaggerated in adult males. Their deeply resonant “mooing” calls, amplified by the echo-chamber of the inflated wattle, sound much like someone blowing across the top of a large, empty bottle. I had visited this lek with previous groups, but we had always viewed the birds from some distance away and while in the boats, with the noisy motors drowning out the sounds. So I was delighted to find that Francisco had cut a trail through the várzea forest to allow birders closer access to the lek. The umbrellabirds put on a real show for us, bouncing around in some bare trees in a manner that instantly reminded me of turacos in

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Africa, but at the same time, with crests fanned and pendant wattles inflated and hanging vertically.

Agami Heron, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

The remainder of our time was spent birding the excellent network of forest trails that crisscross both banks of the reserve. In August of 1991, when the late Ted Parker and I brought the first group of birders to stay at what is now the CJL, there were no canopy towers, no special water features, and only a single trail that dead-ended after about 1 kilometer. I’m guessing that there are now upwards of 25 kms of trails in the reserve— too many to cover in any single brief visit. Even trails that have existed for many years have changed markedly in appearance and in the birds that can be found, largely due to a precipitous collapse of Guadua bamboo over much of the Alta Floresta region. Bamboos are successional species that tend to spring up in recently opened lightgaps due to deforestation, natural treefalls, landslides and the like. As such, they are typically found in even-aged stands, with species-specific or site-specific lifespans before they undergo a mass-seeding event and then die. These episodic seedings and die-offs result in huge structural changes to the local plant communities, the effects of which are felt for a decade or more, until the next generation of bamboo is of sufficient size and age to fill the vacant niche. Bamboo communities at CJL have undergone just such an episodic die- off over the past decade, and the effects of this die-off on bird communities have been exacerbated by a freak “blow-down” weather event (sort of the Amazonian equivalent of a tornado) that flattened many of the best stands of bamboo along the Taboca Trail three years ago. These changes in habitat structure have resulted in the local decline and/or disappearance of many bird species that are considered to be specialists of bamboo thickets. Gone are Amazonian Antpitta, Chestnut-throated Spinetail and Peruvian

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Recurvebill, and once common species such as Striated Antbird, Manu Antbird, Dusky- cheeked and Chestnut-crowned foliage-gleaners, and Dusky-tailed Flatbill all seem to be on their way out.

Accordingly, much of my focus in terms of trail selection was centered upon trying to get as many of the increasingly scarce “bamboo birds” as was still possible. The Haffer Trail served us well in this respect, delivering both Large-headed and Dusky-tailed flatbills, a responsive pair of Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaners, a nice pair of Manu Antbirds, a pair of Dot-winged Antwrens (endemic subspecies emiliae , likely to be elevated to full- species status), and a lovely pair of Rose-breasted Chats (not a “bamboo bird” but a specialist of midstory vinetangles that are often found bordering bamboo thickets). The Serra #1 trail added the recently described Tapajós Scythebill (split from Curve-billed Scythebill) and Ornate Antwren to the mix, rounding out our list of bamboo specialties. Other good pick-ups along the CJL trail system included the likes of Blue-backed Manakin (yellow-crowned subspecies regina ), “Amazonian” Royal Flycatcher, Ruddy Quail-Dove, Wing-barred Piprites, Red-necked Woodpecker, White-browed Antbird and many others.

But our biggest triumph on the trails was delivered by none other than the Rochas Trail (the latest incarnation of the very first CJL trail), and on our last partial morning of birding at CJL. Back on October 1, as we were hiking to Tower #1 in the predawn darkness, we were serenaded by an unseen Alta Floresta Antpitta. We weren’t in a position to try for the bird at the time, but I marked the nearest location on the trail and returned the next day, by myself, during the midafternoon break, with the intent of pinning down the boundaries of the antpitta’s territory. After a bit of poking around, I located the antpitta and again marked the spot so that we could return as a group. We tried, as a group, on the afternoon of October 3, and again first thing in the morning on October 4, without so much as a peep out of the bird. With few remaining targets, I decided the best use of our few available hours on the morning of October 6 would be to make one last try for the antpitta. So back we went. Upon arrival at the designated spot, we were greeted by, and temporarily distracted by, a Bare-eyed Antbird. But while we were thus engaged, the antpitta began to sing from very nearby. We dropped the Bare- eyed Antbird immediately and refocused on finding the antpitta. This time, it didn’t take long, and we were looking at this recently split (from Spotted Antpitta) species from lethal range! After soaking in the antpitta, we used our remaining time to continue on the trail to the Saleiro (salt lick). No sooner had we arrived, than I heard a distant response to my Rufous-capped Nunlet playback. The nunlet represented yet another vinetangle- bamboo thicket specialist which, so far, had eluded us. After a bit of scanning with my binoculars, I found it, high in an emergent tree and too far for the naked eye to see. Although it never came close, it was in the open and remained that way for several minutes—our eleventh puffbird species for the trip, and found at the eleventh hour! Moments later, we were on our way back to the lodge, giving us enough time to clean up and pack up before heading out by boat, back down the Cristalino and across the Teles Pires. We said our fond goodbyes to Francisco and then caught our ride back into Alta Floresta, with a midafternoon plane flight back to Cuiabá to follow.

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Alta Floresta Antpitta, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

By noon of the following day, I was on my way to further adventures in the state of Rondônia, and all of you were winging your way home. I greatly enjoyed sharing my favorite corner of the Amazon with each of you, and I look forward to seeing you all on future trips. Just remember, your Brazil visa is good for 10 years! Special thanks to Bradley Davis for all of his efforts and assistance at Rio Azul, and to Francisco for all of his hard work at Cristalino Jungle Lodge. Thanks also to Carlão & Ivaní and their staff at Rio Azul Jungle Lodge, and to Dona Vitoria and her family and entire staff at the CJL for providing us with two such wonderful places to stay and bird, and for helping to preserve so many biological treasures. I’m already looking forward with great anticipation to my next visit.

Favorite Birds of the Trip (as voted by the group):

1. Zigzag Heron 2. Amazonian Umbrellabird & Spotted Puffbird (tied) 3. Purple-throated Cotinga, Alta Floresta Antpitta, Agami Heron and Bare- eyed Antbird (tied)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 ITINERARY:

9/23 – Overnight flights depart US cities for São Paulo; some participants and Kevin left a day earlier, and arrive in Cuiabá on this day. 9/24 – Introductory dinner and official first night of the tour in Cuiabá. 9/25 – Slaviero Slim Hotel, Cuiabá: breakfast anytime from 0500h–0930h, prior to meeting in lobby with bags, for our 1000h transfer to the airport, ahead of our 1230h Azul flight (#2610) to Alta Floresta. Our 1345h arrival in Alta Floresta coincided with the dramatic end of what had been a 3-month drought – we could literally see the downpour heading for us as we deplaned, prompting a mad dash for the terminal – and further solidifying my reputation as “the bringer of the rains”! Brad & Nestor were waiting for us at the airport, and after bagging our luggage in plastic bags and getting it all loaded into our two vehicles, they drove us over to a local kilo restaurant for lunch. It poured throughout our lunch, and continued to drizzle throughout our drive to Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Novo Progresso, Pará state), which ended up being a rather muddy, four- hour drive with little opportunity for birding, rather than the dusty drive with some late afternoon parrot stops that we had anticipated. We arrived at Rio Azul after dark, but in time for the first of Ivaní’s many great meals. 9/26 – Rio Azul Jungle Lodge: breakfast at 0500h; birded lodge clearing from 0545– 1000h, then walked out the entrance road from 1000h–1230h, when we returned to the lodge for lunch and break until 1530h; from 1530h–1700h, we birded along two different trails out of the clearing, until gathering storm clouds drove us back in. 9/27 – Rio Azul Jungle Lodge: breakfast at 0500h; from 0545h–1315h we birded the clearing, the river (by boat) and the new trail off the river; lunch & break from 1315h– 1530h; late afternoon on the “Kitchen Trail”, around the clearing, out the entrance road, and along the first part of the Jatobá Trail until 1840h. 9/28 – Rio Azul Jungle Lodge: breakfast at 0500h, with 0545h departure for birding, initially by boat along the river, but we got chased back in by what seemed like an imminent big storm. We made it back to the lodge, only to have the weather clear up and become sunny and hot for the remainder of the day, with no rain. We spent what was left of the morning birding a trail on the neighboring property, and then, following lunch and afternoon break, we went back in the boats on the river, staying out until after dusk. 9/29 – Rio Azul Jungle Lodge: breakfast at 0500h; from 0545h–0930h, we birded out the entrance road and along the Jatobá Trail. We returned to the lodge at 0930h to pack and clean up prior to our early (1100h) lunch. We left the lodge at ca. 1230h, driving back to the ferry crossing at the rio Teles Pires (with opportunistic brief stops for birds and other wildlife along the way), then taking the Fazenda Cristalino Road to the CJL boat launch on the rio Teles Pires, where we said our goodbyes to Brad and met Francisco, who then took us by boat across the Teles Pires and up the rio Cristalino to the Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL), where we arrived shortly before dusk. 9/30 – Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL): breakfast at 0500h; departed by boat, upriver on the Cristalino at 0545h to the Haffer Trail, with many stops for birds en route; birded the entire Haffer Trail for the remainder of the morning, from 0730h until 1145h. Back at the lodge by 1215h, with lunch and afternoon break until 1530h, when we took the boat across the river to Posinho, where we spent the remainder of the afternoon sitting at the blind, watching birds coming in to drink and bathe until 1740h.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 10/01 – Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL): breakfast at 0445h, with 0530 departure on foot for Tower #1 (Chip Haven Tower), where we birded from atop the tower until rain forced us off at 1000h. We returned to camp, and spent the rest of the drizzly morning relaxing, with lunch and break until 1500h, with the rest of the afternoon devoted to birding by boat upriver on the Cristalino. 10/02 – Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL): breakfast at 0445h, with 0530h departure by boat, crossing the river to the trailhead to Tower #2 (Ted Parker Tower). We hiked the 500m+ trail to the tower in relative darkness, and climbed the tower, where we birded mostly from the 2 nd highest platform until 1100h. We returned to the lodge by 1230h for lunch and break until 1500h, when we again took the boat, this time, upstream to Lagoinha, where we spent the remainder of the afternoon (until dusk) at the blind overlooking the water hole. 10/03 – Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL): breakfast at 0500h, with 0545h departure by boat, upstream to the Serra Nova Trail, where, due primarily to heavy overcast & extreme humidity, we spent an unusually unproductive morning on what is normally a terrific trail, until 1130h. We returned to the lodge for lunch and afternoon break, heading back out on foot at 1500h to bird the Rochas Trail out of camp, until 1730h. 10/04 – Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL): breakfast at 0500h, followed from 0545h– 0645h by a quick & unsuccessful foray along the Rochas Trail specifically to look for the Alta Floresta Antpitta that we had all heard on 10/1, and the KZ had seen on 10/2. After dipping on the antpitta, we boarded the boat and headed upstream to the Serra #1 trailhead, where we spent the remainder of the morning (0700h–1115h) hiking and birding along the trail up to the first big overlook on the serra. We returned to the lodge for lunch and afternoon break until 1500h, spending the rest of the afternoon on an extended boat trip upriver to Limão and back, returning to the lodge at 1800h. 10/05 – Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL): breakfast at 0445h, with 0530h departure by boat, downstream on the Cristalino to the rio Teles Pires, and on to Ilha Ariosto, where we birded on foot from 0545h–1100h. We followed this with a brief time on a nearby, unnamed island for a couple of specific target birds, before returning to the lodge for lunch and afternoon break. At 1530h we took the boat a short distance downstream and across the river to Posinho, where we once again spent the remainder of the afternoon at the blind overlooking the water feature. This time, an impending storm drove us out and back to the lodge at 1745h. 10/06 – Cristalino Jungle Lodge (CJL): breakfast at 0500h, after which, we offered an optional walk back out on the Rochas Trail to the Saleiro (salt lick) from 0545h–0800h. This was followed by two hours to clean up and pack, ahead of our 1000h boat transfer back down the Cristalino and across the Teles Pires, to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch, where representatives from the Floresta Amazônica Hotel in Alta Floresta were waiting. They transferred us back to Alta Floresta by van, with a stop at the hotel to settle up our bills, followed by a stop for lunch at a local Kilo restaurant, and then a transfer to the airport in time for our 1415h Azul flight back to Cuiabá. 10/07 – Cuiabá: Following breakfast at the hotel, we transferred at 0900h to the airport, where all participants boarded an 1130h flight to São Paulo, with international connections home later that evening. KZ caught a 1215h flight to Porto Velho, Rondônia to begin his wildly successful Ji-Paraná expedition. 10/08 – arrival back in USA, with connections home.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 KEY:

CJL = Cristalino Jungle Lodge & the Reserva Florestal Cristalino (including all of the trails off the rio Cristalino, both canopy towers, the water holes, and the Cristalino itself, from Limão upstream, to the mouth, and the “meeting of the waters”) IA = Ilha Ariosto (including the adjacent, unnamed island, and the waters of the rio Teles Pires) RAZ = Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (including the entrance road, all trails, the lodge clearing, and boat trips along the rio Azul) * = denotes a species that was heard only (not seen) E = Brazilian Endemic RE = Regional Endemic (In most cases, these are species whose range is largely confined to the region south of the Amazon, between the rio Madeira on the west, and either the rio Tapajós or the rio Xingú to the east, but which extends barely into neighboring Bolivia.)

BIRDS:

Tinamidae (Tinamous)

Gray Tinamou (Tinamus tao ) - 1-2 individuals heard daily at RAZ, with 1 roosting bird seen beautifully along the Jatobá Trail at dusk on 9/27; 1 heard at CJL on the afternoon of 9/1. White-throated Tinamou (Tinamus guttatus )* - Singles heard at RAZ on the morning of 9/29, and at CJL (Rochas Trail) on the afternoon of 10/3. Great Tinamou (Tinamus major )* - 1 very vocal bird heard nightly from the lodge clearing at RAZ; also heard at CJL on 10/2–4 (Lagoinha, Rochas Trail & along the Cristalino). Cinereous Tinamou (Crypturellus cinereus )* - 1-5 heard along the rivers at RAZ and CJL on 9/27,28,30 and on 10/4, typically in the last hour before dusk. One of these birds came very close to our boats on 9/28 when we pulled into a narrow igarapé to try for Zigzag Heron, but I believe Brad was the only one who actually saw it. Little Tinamou (Crypturellus soui )* - 1 heard at RAZ on 9/27 was our only record. Undulated Tinamou (Crypturellus undulatus ) - 1 heard and then flushed as we hiked to the umbrellabird lek at IA on the morning of 10/5. Brazilian Tinamou (Crypturellus strigulosus ) - 1-2 individuals heard on 9/26,27 at RAZ, and on 9/30, 10/2 and 10/4 at CJL. Variegated Tinamou (Crypturellus variegatus )* - At least 1 individual heard on 6 different days at RAZ & CJL. This was, most likely, the tinamou that flushed noisily on the right side of the trail as we were nearing Tower #2 on 10/2.

Anatidae (Ducks, Geese & Swans)

Muscovy Duck (Cairina moschata ) - 2–12 seen daily during our boat trips on the rio Cristalino (CJL).

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Muscovy Duck, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Brazilian Teal (Amazonetta brasiliensis ) - 2 (pair) seen during the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29.

Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas & Allies)

Rusty-margined Guan (Penelope superciliaris ) - 2 seen along the entrance road at RAZ on the afternoon of 9/27; seen again along the Jatobá Trail by KZ the next day. Spix’s Guan (Penelope jacquacu ) - 1 seen at RAZ on 9/28 and heard there on 9/29; 1 seen at CJL on 10/6. Red-throated Piping-Guan (Pipile cujubi ) - 1 seen at RAZ on 9/27, and 2 seen there on 9/28; 2 or more seen on 6 of 8 days at CJL, with a high of 15+ along the Cristalino on the afternoon of 10/4. Razor-billed Curassow (Mitu tuberosum ) - 1 seen along the entrance road at RAZ on the afternoon of 9/26; 8 seen along various trails at RAZ on 9/27; heard at RAZ on the morning of 9/29; and 4 seen along the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on the afternoon of 9/29. 4 (two pairs) seen along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on the morning of 9/30. Bare-faced Curassow (Crax fasciolata ) - 2 seen on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29; 1-2 seen daily around the lodge clearing at CJL, starting with our arrival in camp on the afternoon of 9/29, and continuing through the morning of 10/6. Marjean became friends with the female of this pair!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Bare-faced Curassow (female), Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Odontophoridae (New World Quails)

Marbled Wood-Quail (Odontophorus gujanensis ) - 2 (pair) seen (right before they flushed) along the entrance road at RAZ on the afternoon of 9/26; heard in the same area the next day.

Ciconidae (Storks)

Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria ) - 3 large chicks on a nest, in a big Brazil nut tree in an otherwise cleared pasture along the road from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29. Wood Stork (Mycteria americana ) - 1 seen on the drive from Alta Floresta to RAZ on the afternoon of 9/25, and another seen by Charlie (and others?) as it flew over the canopy while we were on the Serra #1 trail at CJL on 10/4.

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants)

Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus ) - 8 seen at the Teles Pires ferry crossing on 9/25; 1 seen along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/27; 1–2 seen along the Cristalino on 9/30, 10/3 and 10/4; and 10+ seen in the waters around IA on 10/5 and 10/6.

Anhingidae (Anhingas & Darters)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga ) - Singles seen along the river at RAZ on 9/27 and 9/28; with 3–8 seen daily along the Cristalino (CJL).

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets & Bitterns)

Zigzag Heron (Zebrilus undulatus ) - 1 taped in and seen beautifully along the rio Azul (RAZ) at dusk on 9/28. Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum ) - 1 seen along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/28, with 1–3 individuals seen along the Cristalino on 9/30, 10/1, and 10/4, and 1 seen at IA on 10/5. Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi ) - 1 seen along the road from Alta Floresta to RAZ on 9/25, and another at IA on 10/5 were our only records. Great Egret (Ardea alba ) - 1 over RAZ on 9/28; 2 seen along the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29; and 1 seen on the drive from the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch to Alta Floresta on 10/6. Snowy Egret (Egretta thula ) - Singles seen along the Cristalino on 9/29, 10/3 and 10/4. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis ) - Common in the pastures along the roads between Alta Floresta, RAZ and the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/25, 9/29 and 10/6. 1 seen (photographed) along the rio Cristalino, upstream from the lodge, on 10/2 was out-of- place. Striated Heron (Butorides striatus ) - Singles recorded along the rio Azul on 9/27,28, and along the rio Cristalino on 9/30 and 10/4. Agami Heron (Agamia agami ) - 2 adults seen nicely along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 10/1, 1 seen there on 10/2, and 1 juvenile seen nicely there on 10/4. Capped Heron (Pilerhodias pileatus ) - 1 seen along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 9/30 was our only record.

Threskiornithidae (Ibises & Spoonbills)

Green Ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis ) - 1 heard at RAZ on 9/26, and seen there on 9/27; 1–6 birds seen daily along the Cristalino.

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Green Ibis, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Cathartidae (New World Vultures)

Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus ) - Seen every day. Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura ) - 1-2 birds seen at RAZ on 9/26-28. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus ) - This open-country species was seen only in the deforested pasturelands between RAZ and the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29, and between the boat launch and Alta Floresta on 10/6. Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes melambrotus ) - The most common vulture in intact forest; up to 20/day daily at RAZ & CJL, from 9/26–10/6. King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa ) - Singles over RAZ on 9/28,29, and over CJL on 10/4 in the morning (Serra #1) and afternoon (rio Cristalino).

Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles & Kites)

Hook-billed Kite (Chondrohierax uncinatus ) - 1 male photographed as it circled above us at IA on 10/5 was our only record. Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus ) - 2 at RAZ on 9/26, 1 there on 9/27, and 3 there on 9/28; 2 seen from Tower #2 at CJL on 10/2. Harpy Eagle (Harpia harpyja ) - A huge, dark-gray-and-white raptor that flushed from an emergent tree along the Cristalino as our boat came into view on 10/1 was almost certainly this species (particularly since another boat from the lodge saw one in this same

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 20 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 area a short time later), but our only definite record was a very distant perched bird seen from the top of Tower #2 the following morning. Ornate Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus ornatus )* - 1 heard as it circled above the canopy while we were on the Serra #1 trail on 10/4. Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis ) - 500+ birds kettling on a thermal above the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26 was remarkable. Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea ) - 1–5 birds seen daily from 9/26–10/4 at RAZ and CJL. Crane Hawk (Geranospiza caerulescens ) - 1 fly-by seen at IA on 10/5. Great Black-Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga) - 2 (pair) seen near the trailhead to the Tower #2 trail on 10/2; 1 juvenile seen by Tamara at IA on 10/5; and another juvenile perched above the Cristalino on 10/6 as we were leaving the lodge. White Hawk (Pseudaster albicollis ) - 2 (a pair) seen on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29, with one of the birds clutching a large snake that was easily 6’ in length. We also saw a distant one soaring on 10/2 (as we stood on Tower #2). White-browed Hawk (Leucopternis kuhli ) - 1 sub-adult plumaged bird seen perched along the Cristalino on 9/30 was our only record.

Hook-billed Kite (male), Ilha Ariosto, rio Teles Pires (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)

Sunbittern (Eurypyga helias ) - 1-2 seen daily along the Cristalino, from 9/30–10/5.

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Sunbittern, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Heliornithidae (Finfoots)

Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica ) - 1 seen near the boat launch area at RAZ on 9/27; 3 seen at a lake along the road from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29; 1 male seen along the Cristalino on 9/30; and 1 male seen along the Cristalino on our last morning, on 10/6.

Aramidae (Limpkin)

Limpkin (Aramus guarauna ) - 2 seen along the Cristalino on 9/29 were our only record.

Psophiidae (Trumpeters)

Dark-winged (Olive-winged) Trumpeter (Psophia [viridis] dextralis )* (E) - Heard repeatedly from the forest below when we were atop Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and we heard another group close to the trail as we were hiking to Tower #2 (CJL) the next morning pre-dawn. I tried to tape that group in, and they did come closer, but we were never able to see them in the pre-dawn gloom of the forest. {Some authorities are now splitting this “species” into three: “Green-winged Trumpeter” ( P. viridis ) of the Madeira- Tapajós interfluve; “Olive-winged Trumpeter” ( P. dextralis ) of the Tapajós-Xingú interfluve; and “Black-winged Trumpeter” ( P. obscura ) from east of the Xingú. The birds we heard, but did not see, are referable to the subspecies dextralis .}

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Charadriidae (Plovers & Lapwings)

Pied Lapwing (Vanellus cayanus ) - 2 at the Teles Pires ferry crossing on 9/25 were our only ones until we found one at IA on 10/5. Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis ) - Common in the pastures along the roads between Alta Floresta, RAZ and the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/25, 9/29 and 10/6; 6-8 noisy birds also seen over the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/27,28.

Jacanidae (Jacanas)

Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana ) - 1 seen at a muddy pond on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29 was our only record.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers & Allies)

Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius ) - Singles seen along the Cristalino (CJL) on 9/29,30 and 10/5. Solitary Sandpiper (Tringa solitaria ) - 1 seen at a muddy pond on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29 was our only record. Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes ) - 1 seen at a muddy pond on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29 was our only record.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns & Skimmers)

Yellow-billed Tern (Sterna superciliaris ) - 1 at IA on 10/5 was our only record.

Columbidae (Pigeons & Doves)

Rock (Feral) Pigeon (Columba livia ) - Seen only in Cuiabá and Alta Floresta on 9/25 and 10/6. Pale-vented Pigeon (Patagioenas cayennensis ) - Singles seen along the Cristalino on 10/3 and at IA on 10/5 were our only records. Picazuro Pigeon (Patagioenas picazuro ) - With deforestation, this open-country species has greatly expanded its range in Brazil. We saw numbers of them in the pasturelands on the drive from Alta Floresta to RAZ on 9/25, and on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29. Plumbeous Pigeon (Patagioenas plumbea ) - 2 seen along the rio Cristalino on 9/30; 1 from Tower #2 on 10/2; and 3 along the Cristalino on the afternoon of 10/4. Ruddy Pigeon (Patagioenas subvinacea ) - 1-5 birds heard most days at RAZ and CJL, but seen only on 9/28 along the rio Azul, and on 10/2 from atop Tower #2 at CJL. Ruddy Ground-Dove (Columbina talpacoti ) Scaled Dove (Columbina squammata ) - 5 seen in open-country on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 23 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Blue Ground-Dove (Claravis pretiosa ) - A pair seen along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/28, and another pair that flew in front of our boat on the rio Cristalion (CJL) on 9/30 were our only records. Ruddy Quail-Dove (Geotrygon montana ) - 2 flushed at RAZ on 9/27; 1 male seen on the Rochas Trail at CJL on 10/3 and again on 10/6, and heard at the same location on 10/4. Gray-fronted Dove (Leptotila rufaxilla )* - 1 heard along the Haffer Trail at CJL on 9/30.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos & Anis)

Guira Cuckoo (Guira guira ) - 5 seen along the road from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29; also seen by some people on the return drive to Alta Floresta on 10/6. Greater Ani (Crotophaga major ) - Seen daily along the rio Azul and rio Cristalino, with high counts of 25 along the Cristalino on the morning of 9/30, and 20 there on the afternoon of 10/1. Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani ) - Common in the pastures along the roads between Alta Floresta, RAZ and the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch; 1–5 birds also seen daily around the lodge clearing at RAZ. Striped Cuckoo (Taperia naevia ) - 1 seen along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana ) - 1-2 birds seen/heard on 8 different days at RAZ & CJL. Black-bellied Cuckoo (Piaya melanogaster ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/27; 1 seen along the Cristalino (CJL) on 10/1.

Strigidae (Typical Owls)

Southern Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl (Megascops [watsonii] usta ) - After a bit of work, we finally spotlighted 1 nicely at RAZ on 9/27; also heard there on 9/26, and at CJL on 10/1. {Many authorities consider the birds found south of the Amazon (ssp. usta ) as being specifically distinct from the birds found north of the Amazon (nominate watsonii ). Songs of the two differ greatly in pace, but to date, there has been no comprehensive multi-character analysis, so the South American Classification Committee has yet to adopt this split.} Spectacled Owl (Pulsatrix perspicillata ) - 1 spotlighted along the Cristalino opposite our lodge as we were returning at dusk on 10/4. Amazonian Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium hardyi )* - Heard daily at RAZ, and on 9/30, 10/2,3 at CJL, but we could never get one to come into view. Burrowing Owl (Athene cunicularia ) - 15+ seen on the drive from Alta Floresta to RAZ on 9/25; 10 seen on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29; and 3 seen on the drive back to Alta Floresta on 10/6.

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“Southern” Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Caprimulgidae (Nightjars & Allies)

Short-tailed Nighthawk (Lurocalis semitorquatus ) - 2 seen over the Cristalino at dusk on 10/1, and another seen there at dusk on 10/4. Blackish Nightjar (Nyctipolus nigrescens ) - A bird on an active nest at the edge of the lodge clearing at RAZ was seen on 9/26 and 9/28. Common Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis ) - 1 seen at RAZ on 10/27; multiple birds seen/heard nightly at CJL. Ladder-tailed Nightjar (Hydropsalis climacocerca ) - At least 1 male and 1 female seen nicely at the unnamed island adjacent to IA on 10/5. Ocellated Poorwill (Nyctiphrynus ocellatus ) - 1 seen briefly at RAZ on 9/27 was our only record.

Apodidae (Swifts)

White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris ) - 3 over RAZ on 9/26, and a flock of 50+ there on 9/28. Amazonian Swift (Chaetura viridipennis ) - The most commonly seen swift on our trip. Seen daily in numbers at RAZ; also seen on 10/1 and 10/3 at CJL. Short-tailed Swift (Chaetura brachyura ) - 5 at RAZ on 9/27; several over a palm- studded swamp along the road from RAZ to the rio Teles Pires ferry crossing on 9/29; 3 at CJL on 10/2 (from Tower #2); and recorded without numbers from CJL on 10/3.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Gray-rumped Swift (Chaetura cinereiventris ) - Among swifts, second only to Amazonian Swift in abundance on our trip. 3 at RAZ on 9/27; 30+ there on 9/28; 20 from Tower #2 at CJL on 10/2; and recorded without numbers from Tower #1 at CJL on 10/1. Pale-rumped Swift (Chaetura egregia ) - At least 1 seen among a mixed-species group of swifts drinking from the rio Azul on 9/28, but I think Brad and I may have been the only ones to see it. Fork-tailed Palm-Swift (Tachornis squamata ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/27,28; a few seen over a palm-studded swamp along the road from RAZ to the Teles Pires ferry crossing on 9/29. Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift (Panyptila cayennensis ) - 2 seen over the entrance road at RAZ on 9/27.

Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)

Crimson Topaz (Topaza pella ) - 2 (1 female and 1 subadult male) seen at length along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/27, and 1 female seen there on 9/28; 1 female/imm seen as it hawked insects over the rio Cristalino (just above the first rapids upstream from the lodge) and heard as it blasted across the river on 9/30. White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora ) - 3 at RAZ on 9/27, 2 there on 9/28, and 1 along the entrance road there on 9/29. Rufous-breasted Hermit (Glaucis hirsutus ) - 1 at the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26. Straight-billed Hermit (Phaethornis bourcieri ) - 1 seen at close range along the trail at RAZ on 9/28 was a first confirmed record for the lodge. Great-billed Hermit (Phaethornis malaris ) - 1 seen well by Charlie and glimpsed by others along the Serra #1 trail (CJL) on 10/4, and another seen around the lodge on 10/6. Reddish Hermit (Phaethornis ruber ) - 1 seen nicely along the Serra #1 trail on 10/4 was, oddly, our only record. Black-eared Fairy (Heliothryx auritus ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/26, and at CJL on 10/1 (Tower #1), 10/4 (Serra #1), and 10/5 (Posinho). Green-tailed Goldenthroat (Polytmus theresiae ) - 1–2 birds seen daily (9/26–29) in the lodge clearing and/or in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ. Black-throated Mango (Anthracothorax nigricollis ) - The most common hummer in the lodge clearing at RAZ, where up to 6 individuals (males & females) were seen daily from 9/26–29. Black-bellied Thorntail (Discosura langsdorffi ) - 1 along the Serra Nova trail at CJL on 10/3 was our only record. Gould’s Jewelfront (Heliodoxa aurescens ) - Sadly, we never did see the bird, although we did see a nest that was under active construction along the “new” trail at RAZ. Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris ) - 1 at RAZ on 9/26, and 2 there on 9/27 and 9/28. Amethyst Woodstar (Calliphlox amethystina ) - 1-2 birds seen in the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26,27, and 1 in the campina along the entrance road there on 9/29. We also saw 1 female along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 9/30. Gray-breasted Sabrewing (Campylopterus largipennis ) - 1 seen along the rio Azul at RAZ on 9/28, and another seen only by KZ along the Rochas Trail at CJL on 9/30.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Fork-tailed Woodnymph (Thalurania furcata ) - 1 male seen in the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26-28 was doing his best to drive other hummers away; also seen nicely at Lagoinha (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/2. Versicolored Emerald (Amazilia versicolor ) - 2 at RAZ on 9/27 and again on 9/29; 1 seen from Tower #2 at CJL on 10/2. Rufous-throated Sapphire (Hylocharis sapphirina ) - 1 male seen nicely in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. White-chinned Sapphire (Hylocharis cyanus ) - Heard at RAZ on 9/27, with a male seen there on 9/28.

Green-tailed Goldenthroat, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Trogonidae (Trogons & Quetzals)

Pavonine Quetzal (Pharomachrus pavoninus ) - 1 seen along the rio Azul on 9/28 gave us only fleeting views. Black-tailed Trogon (Trogon melanurus ) - 1 male seen at RAZ (Jatobá Trail) on 9/29, and another heard at RAZ on 9/28. In general, trogons were quieter and less conspicuous than usual throughout this trip. Green-backed Trogon (Trogon viridis ) - 1-3 birds seen/heard daily from 9/26–10/6. Seen along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/29, and along the “new” trail on 9/27; also seen at CJL on 9/30 (Haffer Trail), 10/1 (Tower #1), and 10/4 (rio Cristalino). Blue-crowned Trogon (Trogon curucui )* - Heard at RAZ on 9/26 and at CJL on 10/4. Black-throated Trogon (Trogon rufus )* - Heard at RAZ on 9/26.

Momotidae (Motmots)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 27 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Amazonian Motmot (Momotus momota )* - Heard at RAZ on 9/27, and at CJL (Serra #1) on 10/4. As we discussed at the time, for reasons that are not at all clear to me, motmots are infinitely easier to see in Central America than they are in the Amazon! Broad-billed Motmot (Electron platyrhynchum )* - 2 heard along the rio Azul on 9/27, when I managed to tape one in considerably closer to the river-edge. Unfortunately, we were never able to spot it.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)

Ringed Kingfisher (Ceryle torquata ) - 1–2 birds seen daily along the rio Azul and rio Cristalino, from 9/27–10/5, except for 9/28 and 10/3, when none were seen. Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona ) - 2–8 birds seen daily along the rio Azul and rio Cristalino, from 9/27–10/6. Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana ) - 1–3 birds seen daily along the rio Azul and rio Cristalino from 9/27–10/6, except for 9/29 and 10/2, when none were seen. Green-and-rufous Kingfisher (Chloroceryle inda ) - 3 seen at RAZ on 9/27 (a pair together along an igarapé , and 1 individual along the rio Azul); 2 seen at CJL along the rio Cristalino on the afternoon of 10/1, 1 there on the afternoon of 10/2, and another, downstream from the lodge on the morning of 10/6. American Pygmy Kingfisher (Chloroceryle aenea ) - 1 heard along an igarapé at RAZ on 9/27, and another seen briefly along the rio Azul (possibly only by Brad) on 9/28, were our only records.

Bucconidae (Puffbirds)

White-necked Puffbird (Notharchus hyperrhynchus ) - Great views of 1 bird at Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and of a pair from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Brown-banded Puffbird (Notharchus ordii ) - 2-3 birds seen/heard daily from 9/26– 10/2, and again on 10/4. Scoped from the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/28, with two more being seen along the rio Azul later that day. We also saw a pair along the rio Cistalino on 9/30, and then, enjoyed fabulous eye-level studies of a pair from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Pied Puffbird (Notharchus tectus ) - 1 scoped from the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26; another heard along the rio Azul on 9/27; and 1 seen from the overlook at the Serra Nova trail (CJL) on 10/3. Spotted Puffbird (Bucco tamatia ) - Crippling views of a pair in the campinarana woodlands along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29, after having only heard them there on 9/26 & 27. Collared Puffbird (Bucco capensis ) - Nice studies of a pair on one of the forest trails at RAZ on 9/26. We also heard them from the canopy below us when we were on Tower #1 at CJL on 10/1. Eastern Striolated-Puffbird (Nystalus [striolatus] torridus ) (RE) - 1 taped into the lodge clearing at RAZ for great views on 9/26; subsequently heard at RAZ on 9/28 and 9/29, and at CJL on 9/30. {This is a recent split from what used to be called “Striolated Puffbird”. The Western Striolated-Puffbird is found only west of the rio Madeira.}

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Rufous-necked Puffbird (Malacoptila rufa ) - 1 beautiful individual seen nicely along the “new” trail at RAZ on 9/27 was our only record. Rufous-capped Nunlet (Nonnula ruficapilla ) - We finally scored big with 1 bird near the Saleiro at the CJL on our last morning on 10/6. This species was a lot more common at the CJL before most of the Guadua bamboo died off. Black-fronted Nunbird (Monasa nigrifrons ) - Common at both RAZ and CJL, where we saw up to 20+/day from 9/26–10/6. White-fronted Nunbird (Monasa morphoeus ) - 2 seen briefly along a forest trail at RAZ on 9/26; a group of 5 seen nicely from atop Tower #1 (CJL); and heard from atop Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Swallow-winged Puffbird (Chelidoptera tenebrosa ) - Common at RAZ, CJL, and IA where we found multiple active nest burrows, and where we recorded 15–30 birds per day, particularly along the rivers (but also along the entrance road at RAZ).

Spotted Puffbird, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Galbulidae (Jacamars)

Blue-cheeked Jacamer (Galbula cyanicollis ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 3 seen there on 9/27; thereafter, only heard at RAZ on 9/28,29, and at CJL on 10/1,2 & 4. Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda ) - Singles seen in campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/29; 2 seen at their nest burrow along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 10/1 and 10/4; and 2 seen at IA on 10/5. Bronzy Jacamar (Galbula leucogastra ) - Nice studies of a pair in the campinarana woodlands along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/29 (heard in the same area on 9/27,28); and heard at the CJL on 10/2 (Lagoinha) and 10/4 (rio Cristalino).

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Paradise Jacamar (Galbula dea ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 6 seen there on 9/27, with 1 heard on 9/29; 3 seen along the Cristalino on the morning of 9/30 and again on the afternoon of 10/4, with singles seen from Tower #2 on 10/2, and from along the river on 10/2–4. Great Jacamar (Jacamerops aureus ) - 1 seen with a mixed-species flock along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/3.

Blue-cheeked Jacamar, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Capitonidae (New World Barbets)

Black-girdled Barbet (Capito dayi ) (RE) - This regional specialty was seen beautifully on multiple occasions, with 4 seen at RAZ on 9/26, 1 at RAZ on 9/28, 1 at CJL (Tower #1) on 10/1, and 4 at CJL (Tower #2) on 10/2. KZ also saw 1 probing hanging dead leaves while moving with a mixed-species flock along the Rochas Trail on 10/2.

Ramphastidae (Toucans & Aracaris)

Lettered Aracari (Pteroglossus inscriptus ) - 2 seen from the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26, and 4 seen there the following morning; 1 lone bird scoped from atop Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; 1 heard at CJL on the afternoon of 10/3. Chestnut-eared Aracari (Pteroglossus castanotis ) - 2–4 birds seen daily at RAZ (usually from the lodge clearing); also seen from Tower #1 at CJL on 10/1, Serra Nova on 10/3, and from the rio Cristalino on 10/1, and from IA on 10/5.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 30 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Curl-crested Aracari (Pteroglossus beauharnaesii ) - 1 glimpsed by some from the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26; heard along the Haffer Trail at CJL on 9/30 and from Tower #2 on 10/2; finally seen nicely along the rio Cristalino on the afternoon of 10/5. Red-necked Aracari (Pteroglossus bitorquatus ) - 2–6 birds seen on six different days between RAZ and CJL; also heard on the afternoon of 10/5 from Posinho. Gould’s Toucanet (Selenidera gouldii ) - Pairs seen on consecutive days (9/26,27) at RAZ, and 1 seen along the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3; heard from RAZ entrance road on 9/29, and from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1. White-throated Toucan (Ramphastos tucanus cuvieri ) - Multiple birds seen/heard daily, from RAZ, CJL and IA. {Formerly called “Cuvier’s Toucan”, which most authorities now lump with “Red-billed Toucan” of the Guianan region.} Channel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus ) - Multiple birds seen/heard almost daily (missed on 9/30 and 10/3), from RAZ, CJL and IA. {Birds from west of the Tapajós were formerly called “Yellow-ridged Toucan” before being lumped with Channel-billed Toucans found to the east.}

Red-necked Aracari, Tower #1, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Picidae (Woodpeckers & Allies)

Bar-breasted Piculet (Picumnus aurifrons ) - Singles seen along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/27 and 9/29 (heard on 9/26), from Tower #1 at CJL on 10/1, and at IA on 10/5. Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (Melanerpes cruentatus ) - Common; seen daily at RAZ (where particularly conspicuous around the lodge clearing), CJL and IA. They joined the cotingas and fruitcrows in repeatedly flycatching winged ants/termites above the canopy at Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 31 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Bar-breasted Piculet (female), Tower #1, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Red-stained Woodpecker (Veniliornis affinis ) - Pair seen along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29 (where previously heard on 9/27); another pair seen at close range from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; and 1 seen at IA on 10/5. Yellow-throated Woodpecker (Piculus flavigula )* - Singles heard at CJL on 9/30 (Haffer Trail) and on 10/3 (Rochas Trail). Golden-green Woodpecker (Piculus chrysochloros ) - 1 seen at RAZ on 9/27. Ringed Woodpecker (Celeus torquatus ) - 2 (pair) seen nicely from the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26 (where also heard on 9/29); 1 seen from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; and 1 heard at IA on 10/5. Scale-breasted Woodpecker (Celeus grammicus ) - Pairs seen at RAZ on 9/27 and 9/29 (heard on 9/26); at CJL on 10/2 (Tower #2) (heard from Tower #1 on 10/1); and at IA on 10/5. Cream-colored Woodpecker (Celeus flavus ) - Pairs seen at RAZ on 9/28 and at CJL on 9/30 (rio Cristalino). Chestnut Woodpecker (Celeus elegans ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/27 and 1 seen there on 9/28. Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus ) - 2 seen along the Cristalino (CJL) on 9/30; spectacular views of 1 from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2; and 1 seen at CJL on 10/4; also heard at IA on 10/5, and along the road from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29. Red-necked Woodpecker (Campephilus rubricollis ) - 1 heard from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and then a pair were seen nicely along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on our last morning on 10/6.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 32 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos )* - Singles heard at CJL on 9/30 (Haffer Trail) and 10/3 (Serra Nova Trail) were our only records.

Lineated Woodpecker (left) & Scale-breasted Woodpecker (right), Tower #2, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Cariamidae (Seriemas)

Red-legged Seriema (Cariama cristata ) - 1 seen by Charlie in the pasturelands between Alta Floresta and RAZ on our rainy afternoon drive on 9/25.

Falconidae (Falcons & Caracaras)

Cryptic Forest-Falcon (Micrastur mirandollei ) (RE) - 2 (pair) that I called in along the rio Cristalino not far below Limão on 10/4. Seeing them from the boat proved difficult, and after glimpsing one of the pair jump a couple of times, Francisco and I were right in the middle of trying to point out a perched individual, when it launched itself across the river and disappeared. Black Caracara (Daptrius ater ) - 1 seen and heard as it flew over the canopy while we were seated at the blind at Posinho on the afternoon of 10/5. Red-throated Caracara (Ibycter americanus ) - 4 seen along the Cristalino on the morning of 9/30; 5 seen there on the afternoon of 10/4; and others heard on 10/4 and 10/5.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 33 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Southern Caracara (Caracara plancus ) - Singles seen in open country on the drive from Alta Floresta to RAZ on 9/25, and on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29. Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis ) - 1 at RAZ on 9/26; and 1–4 birds seen daily along the Cristalino (CJL) from 9/29–10/4.

Red-throated Caracara, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Psittacidae (Parrots, Macaws & Allies)

Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet (Touit huetii ) - 2 high-flying birds seen at RAZ on 9/26, and a much lower group of 4 that crossed the Cristalino (CJL) and flew right over our boat on 9/30. Golden-winged Parakeet (Brotogeris chrysoptera ) - Common; seen/heard in small numbers (< 20) daily at RAZ, CJL & IA. Bald Parrot (Pyrilia aurantiocephala ) (E) - A flock of 8 flew over the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/27; another individual was seen only in flight when it blasted across the rio Azul on 9/28; and a flock of at least 7 birds was seen in much better light flying across the rio Azul and then landing and disappearing into some very leafy tree crowns before escaping out the back, also on 9/28. Brad and I also heard birds calling (in flight) overhead on a couple of occasions when we were all inside the forest. Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus ) - 4 seen at RAZ on 9/27. Common at CJL and IA, where up to 30 or more were seen/heard daily. Yellow-crowned Parrot (Amazona ochrocephala ) - Seen/heard only on 9/28 at RAZ. Kawall’s Parrot (Amazona kawalli ) (E) - 10 seen at RAZ on 9/28 (heard on 9/29); 2 seen along the rio Cristalino on 9/30; heard at CJL on 10/2,3 & 6. Several pairs of

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 34 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 distinctly large but silent Amazons seen flying through the fog at Tower #2 on 10/2 were almost certainly this species as well. Orange-winged Parrot (Amazona amazonica ) - 2 at RAZ on 9/27 and 4 seen over the entrance road there on 9/29 were our only records. Dusky-billed Parrotlet (Forpus modestus ) - Heard at RAZ on 9/27; a pair seen at close range from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; and crippling views of a group of 6 at the clay lick across the river from the Tower #2 trailhead (CJL) on 10/2.

Dusky-billed Parrotlets, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

White-bellied Parrot (Pionites leucogaster ) - 4–12 seen daily at RAZ from 9/27–29; 4 birds also seen from Tower #2 at CJL on 10/2. Red-fan Parrot (Deroptyus accipitrinus ) - 3 seen over the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29; very vocal when we first reached the top of Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, but we couldn’t find the perched birds in the fog; a pair seen perched along the Cristalino on the afternoon of 10/2, and another lone bird perched there on the morning of 10/3. Crimson-bellied Parakeet (Pyrrhura perlata ) - Our only record of this handsome regional endemic was of a group of 8 that flew across the Cristalino right in front of our boat on the morning of 9/30. Madeira Parakeet (Pyrrhura amazonum snethlageae ) (RE) - Common; 10–30 seen daily at RAZ, CJL and IA from 9/26–10/6. Noisy flocks were to be found right around the lodge clearings at both RAZ & CJL. Red-bellied Macaw (Orthopsittaca manilatus ) - Seen daily at RAZ, with a high count of 40+ seen on 9/27. Blue-winged Macaw (Primolius maracana ) - 3 seen at RAZ on 9/27 (heard there on 9/26), and 1 seen there on 9/29.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 35 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna ) - Common; 8–20 seen/heard daily at RAZ and CJL; also seen nicely at the Teles Pires ferry crossing on 9/25, and coming to salt in a pasture along the road from RAZ to the ferry crossing on 9/29. Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao ) - 2 over the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29; 1-3 pairs seen/heard daily at CJL. Red-and-green Macaw (Ara chloropterus ) - 6 at RAZ on 9/26, and 4 there on 9/27; and a pair seen from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1. Chestnut-fronted Macaw (Ara severus ) - 2–8 seen daily at CJL, except for 9/30, when none were seen. White-eyed Parakeet (Aratinga leucophthalma ) - 6–10 seen daily at RAZ; 20+ seen from Tower #2 at CJL on 10/2, and 12 seen along the Cristalino on the afternoon of 10/4 (heard from Posinho on 10/5).

Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)

Fasciated Antshrike (Cymbilaimus lineatus ) - 2 (pair) seen at RAZ on 9/26, with single males seen there on 9/27,28; 1-3 birds heard daily at CJL. Glossy Antshrike (Sakesphorus luctuosus ) (E) - A pair seen along the rio Azul (RAZ) near the boat launch area on 9/27,28 (and heard there on 9/26), and a pair seen at IA on 10/5 were the only ones seen by the entire group, although they were heard along the Cristalino on multiple days, and, I believe Michael saw one by the floating dock on one of the days. Barred Antshrike (Thamnophilus doliatus ) - 1 male taped in on the unnamed island next to IA on 10/5 was our only record. Chestnut-backed Antshrike (Thamnophilus palliatus ) - 1 seen nicely near the boat launch area at RAZ on 9/28, and a pair seen at IA on 10/5 were our only records. This species is one of many that has become much scarcer at CJL since the major bamboo die- off of the past decade. Plain-winged Antshrike (Thamnophilus schistaceus ) - Seen nicely at CJL on 9/30 (pair taped in along the Haffer Trail) and again on 10/3 (pair along the Rochas Trail), but heard from both canopy towers on 10/1,2, and also from the Rochas Trail on 10/6. Natterer’s Slaty-Antshrike (Thamnophilus stictocephalus ) (E) - A pair seen in the campinarana woodlands along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29 had been heard in the same spot on 9/26. Also heard from the semi-deciduous forest bordering the overlook at Serra Nova (CJL) on 10/3. White-shouldered Antshrike (Thamnophilus aethiops ) - 1 male seen nicely at IA on 10/5 was, surprisingly, our only record. There used to be a pair of these birds in every major light-gap vine-tangle and bamboo thicket at CJL. Amazonian Antshrike (Thamnophilus amazonicus ) - 4 seen at RAZ on 9/27, and 1 male seen there on 9/28; a pair heard along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30; and 4 seen/heard at IA on 10/5. Saturnine Antshrike (Thamnomanes saturninus ) - Pairs seen along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30 and along the Rochas Trail (seen on 10/6; heard on 10/3,4) were with understory mixed-species flocks. We also saw a pair bathing at Posinho on 9/30, and a lone male at the same spot on 10/5.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 36 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Cinereous Antshrike (Thamnomanes caesius ) - Seen well at RAZ (9/27,28), CJL (Haffer Trail and Posinho on 9/30; Posinho on 10/5), and IA (10/5), and heard with virtually every understory mixed-species flock encountered on almost every day in between. Plain-throated Antwren (Isleria hauxwelli ) - 1 male taped-in at RAZ on 9/29; another male taped-in along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30; and 1 male seen nicely along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/6 were the only ones seen, although the species was also heard along the Serra Nova Trail on 10/3. Spot-winged Antshrike (Pygiptila stellaris ) - 4 seen with a mixed-species flock at RAZ on 9/28; 1 female seen bathing at Posinho on 9/30 and again on 10/5; and 1 male seen with a mixed-species flock at Serra Nova on 10/3 were the only ones seen, although the species was heard on four other days between RAZ and CJL. White-eyed Antwren (Epinecrophylla leucophthalma ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/27 were part of an understory mixed-species flock, as was 1 male that I taped in along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30. We also heard them along the Rochas Trail (CJL on 10/1, 10/3 and 10/6. Ornate Antwren (Epinecrophylla ornata ) - 1 male seen at CJL (Rochas Trail) on the afternoon of 10/3, and another seen nicely on the morning of 10/4 (Serra #1 Trail); both in midstory vine-tangles within remnant stands of Guadua bamboo. Pygmy Antwren (Myrmotherula brachyura ) - Seen nicely along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26, when we lured a pair quite low. Thereafter, we heard multiple birds each day at RAZ, CJL and IA, but did not make a project of taping them into view. Sclater’s Antwren (Myrmotherula sclateri ) - 1–4 of these canopy-inhabiting antwrens were heard daily from 9/27–10/4, but they were seen only on 9/28 at RAZ (a pair in with a canopy mixed-species flock at the Pará Gnatcatcher spot), and, much better, on 10/1 from Tower #1 at CJL, when we had them at eye-level. Amazonian Streaked-Antwren (Myrmotherula multostriata ) - Common along the rio Azul, where we saw/heard 4 on 9/27 and 12 on 9/28, and along the rio Cristalino (where multiple birds were seen/heard on three different days) and IA (2 pairs on 10/5). White-flanked Antwren (Myrmotherula axillaris ) - Pairs seen at RAZ on 9/27 and 9/28; 3 (1 male; 2 females) coming to the water at Posinho on 9/30 and again on 10/5; and 2 (pair) seen at IA on 10/5. Long-winged Antwren (Myrmotherula longipennis ) - 1 male taped out of an understory mixed-species flock at RAZ on 9/28; 1 male taped out of an understory mixed-species flock at CJL (Haffer Trail) on 9/30; and 1 female seen with an understory mixed-species flock at CJL (Rochas Trail) on 10/6 were the only ones seen by the group, but they were also seen/heard by KZ on a couple of other days at CJL. Gray Antwren (Myrmotherula menetriesii ) - 1 male taped out of a mixed-species flock at RAZ on 9/28 provided superb views, as did another seen along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30. Subsequently heard with mixed-species flocks along the Rochas, Serra Nova & Serra #1 trails at CJL from 10/2–4. Rufous-winged Antwren (Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus ) - Common by voice along the rio Azul, where we heard 2–8 individuals daily, primarily from the boats. Less common at CJL, where heard along the rio Cristalino only on 9/30, and from the Serra #1 Trail on 10/4. We did manage to get nice views of a singing male in the semi-deciduous forest at Serra Nova on 10/3.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 37 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Dot-winged Antwren (Microrhopias quixensis emiliae ) - 2 (pair) seen at CJL (Haffer Trail) on 9/30. {This “subspecies” is vocally and morphologically distinct from the subspecies bicolor , which replaces it on the other side of the Teles Pires. This would appear to be a sure split, once someone gets around to a formal analysis.} White-fringed Antwren (Formicivora grisea ) - Seen only from Serra Nova (CJL) on 10/3 (and then, perhaps, only by Michael), but we also tried hard to tape-in a pair in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26 and again on 9/29. Striated Antbird (Drymophila devillei ) - 1 seen at CJL (Haffer Trail) on 9/30 was our only record, reflecting the collapse of Guadua bamboo along the Cristalino. Spix’s Warbling-Antbird (Hypocnemis striata ) (E) - 1–6 birds seen/heard almost daily at RAZ, CJL & IA. {This is one of the splits that resulted from the breakup of what used to be called, simply, “Warbling Antbird”, a widespread, polytypic species whose constituent subspecies exhibited varying degrees of plumage variation, but significant vocal and ecological variation. This species is found south of the Amazon and mostly east of the rio Tapajós, being replaced farther west in the Madeira-Tapajós interfluve by the Rondônia Warbling-Antbird and the Manicoré Warbling-Antbird.} Yellow-browed Antbird (Hypocnemis hypoxantha ) - 4 seen at RAZ on 9/27 constituted our only record. Manu Antbird (Cercomacra manu ) - 2 (pair) seen nicely at CJL (Haffer Trail) on 9/30. Gray Antbird (Cercomacra cinerascens ) - 1 pair heard at RAZ on 9/26 was, surprisingly, our only record at that locale. 1-3 pairs heard daily at CJL and IA, but seen only on 10/4, when we made a project of taping in a pair along the Rochas Trail at CJL. White-browed Antbird (Myrmoborus leucophrys ) - 1 heard repeatedly (singing directly behind us) as we sat in the blind at Lagoinha (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/2; 1 male taped in and seen well along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on the morning of 10/4. I also heard one singing from the back cabin clearing at CJL on our last morning (10/6). Black-faced Antbird (Myrmoborus myotherinus ) - 2 (pair) seen at RAZ on 9/26 were, oddly, the only ones seen (also heard along the Serra #1 Trail at CJL on 10/4). This species is just one of many understory/terrestrial insectivores whose numbers seem to have declined greatly at CJL over the past decade. Band-tailed Antbird (Hypocnemoides melanopogon ) - Common along the rio Azul (where encountered on 9/27,28 with a high of 8 recorded on 9/27), and along the rio Cistalino, where multiple individuals were seen/heard on 9/30, 10/4 and 10/5, and where we saw a pair coming to the water feature at Lagoinha on 10/2. Silvered Antbird (Sclateria naevia ) - 2 (pair) seen nicely along the banks of the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 9/30; heard at IA on 10/5. Rufous-faced Antbird (Myrmelastes rufifacies ) (E) - After much effort, we finally obtained great views of a male on one of the forest trails at RAZ on 9/27. {This is a relatively recent split from what used to be called “Spot-winged Antbird”, the various subspecies of which shared similar calls and male plumage, but differed greatly in their primary songs, bare parts colors, and female plumages. Rufous-faced Antbird is found only south of the Amazon and east of the rio Madeira in Brazil, and takes its name from the plumage of the female. Note also, the generic reassignment of these birds from genus Percnostola to genus Schistocichla and now to Myrmelastes , part of a major generic reshuffling in antbirds based upon new vocal and molecular evidence.}

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 38 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Bare-eyed Antbird (Rhegmatorhina gymnops ) (E) - 2 (pair) seen bathing at Posinho (CJL) on 10/5, and a male responded to playback by circling us along the Rochas Trail on the morning of 10/6.

Bare-eyed Antbird (male), Posinho, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Spot-backed Antbird (Hylophylax naevius ) - 2 (pair) seen at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2 was our only record of this formerly more common antbird. Dot-backed Antbird (Hylophylax punctulatus ) - A pair seen very well at Posinho (CJL) on 9/30 and again on 10/5; also heard along the rio Azul on 9/27 and 9/28, and along the Cristalino on 10/1. Xingu Scale-backed Antbird (Willisornis vidua ) (E) - 1 male seen nicely along one of the forest trails at RAZ on 9/27; 1 heard at RAZ on 9/28; 1 male seen bathing at Posinho (CJL) on 9/30; 2 (pair) seen at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2; and 2 (pair) seen at Posinho (CJL) on 10/5. {This is a recent split from what used to be called “Scale-backed Antbird”, a geographically widespread and variable species that is now split into two species: Common Scale-backed Antbird (most of the range), and Xingu Scale-backed Antbird (Brazil south of the Amazon and east of the rio Tapajós/Teles Pires. The two species actually replace one another on opposite banks of the Teles Pires in the Alta Floresta region.} Black-spotted Bare-eye (Phlegopsis nigromaculata ) - 1 heard at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2, and 1 seen beautifully when it came in to bathe at Posinho (CJL) on 10/5.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 39 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Black-spotted Bare-eye, Posinho, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Grallaridae (Antpittas)

Alta Floresta Antpitta (Hylopezus whittakeri ) (E) - Heard as we hiked to Tower #1 (CJL) in the pre-dawn darkness on 10/1, and its territory subsequently pinned down the next afternoon by KZ, but attempts to see it with the group late in the afternoon on 10/3 and early in the morning on 10/4 were unsuccessful. Finally, on the last morning (10/6), our persistence was rewarded with stellar views. {This is a recent split from what used to be called “Spotted Antpitta” ( H. macularius ), with whittakeri being found only south of the Amazon, between the rio Madeira and the rio Xingú. The forms that replace it east of the Xingú ( H. paraensis ) and north of the Amazon ( H. macularius ) are now all considered distinct species. The three species are all very similar in plumage characters, but differ significantly in vocalizations.} Thrush-like Antpitta (Myrmothera campanisona )* - 1 heard pre-dawn along the trail to Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2 was our only record.

Furnariidae (Ovenbirds & Woodcreepers)

Spot-throated Woodcreeper (Certhiasomus stictolaemus ) - 1 seen nicely at Posinho (CJL) on 9/30 was our only record of this generally uncommon to rare species. Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus )* - 1 heard at RAZ on 9/29. Long-tailed Woodcreeper (Deconychura longicauda ) - Singles seen well at RAZ on 9/27 and at CJL (Haffer Trail) on 9/30 were the only ones seen, although the species was also heard from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 40 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 White-chinned Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla merula ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/26 and at CJL (Posinho) on 9/30, along with 1 heard at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2 were our only records. Plain-brown Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla fuliginosa ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/27 and at IA on 10/5, along with individuals heard at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/28. Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper (Dendrexetastes rufigula ) - 1 taped in at CJL for good views on 10/3 was our only record. Long-billed Woodcreeper (Nasica longirostris ) - Superb views of a pair of these spectacular woodcreepers along the “new” trail at RAZ on 9/27, and of singles along the rio Cristalino on 10/1 and 10/3.

Long-billed Woodcreeper, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes certhia concolor ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/29, and at CJL on 10/1 (Tower #1) and 10/6 (Rochas Trail), with another heard from the Serra #1 Trail on 10/4. Uniform (Red-billed) Woodcreeper (Hylexetastes [perrotii] uniformis ) (RE) - Great studies of this rare woodcreeper from the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/26 (and heard there each morning thereafter, from 9/27–29). {Ridgely & Tudor, in Birds of South America Volume II treat birds from south of the Amazon and east of the Madeira ( uniformis ) as being specifically distinct from North Bank birds (perrotii ). North Bank birds have a more distinctly reddish bill and a prominent malar stripe compared to the more uniformly colored and patterned South Bank birds; vocalizations of the two sound slightly different to my ears, but there has never been a quantified vocal analysis. The South American Classification Committee, in the absence of such an analysis, follows C. Marantz in

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 41 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Handbook of Birds of the World Volume 8, in continuing to treat the two, along with H. bridgesi (“Brigida’s Woodcreeper”, recognized by the Brazilians as a third species in the complex), as a single species, under the name of “Red-billed Woodcreeper”. Marantz almost always swings toward the conservative “lumping” end of the spectrum when it comes to species-level taxonomy, so I’m not certain that this treatment of Hylexetastes will hold up to more rigorous analysis.} Strong-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus ) - 2 (pair) of these big woodcreepers seen nicely along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/1, and a lone bird taped in for great views near the CJL dining room on the afternoon of 10/3 (where also heard at dawn on 10/2 and 10/4). Striped Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus obsoletus ) - One or more birds heard almost daily from forest along the rio Azul and rio Cristalino, but seen only on 10/3, when I taped a bird across the Cristalino, and again on 10/5, when a pair of birds visited the water feature at Posinho. Spix’s Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus spixii ) - Singles seen nicely at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/28, and at CJL on 10/3 (Rochas Trail) were moving with mixed-species understory flocks, as was a pair seen along the Rochas Trail on 10/6. Buff-throated (Dusky-billed) Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus guttatus eytoni ) - Probably the most common woodcreeper throughout our route by voice, with multiple birds heard daily at RAZ and CJL. However, they proved unusually unresponsive to playback, and we ended up seeing it only at CJL at Lagoinha (poorly) on 10/2, and along the Serra Nova Trail (much better) on 10/3. Straight-billed Woodcreeper (Dendroplex picus ) - 1 heard along the rio Cristalino on 10/2, and a pair taped in for nice studies at IA on 10/5. Tapajós (Curve-billed) Scythebill (Campylorhamphus [procurvoides] cardosoi ) (E) - 1 seen briefly along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4 was our only record of this recently described species. {This is a recent (2013) split from Curve-billed Scythebill, and pertains only to birds found south of the Amazon and between the rio Tapajós and the rio Xingú. Curve-billed Scythebill sensu lato clearly consists of multiple species, based upon some fairly extreme vocal differences between various populations. There is some question as to whether or not birds from the Tapajós-Xingú interfluve are sufficiently distinct from birds of the Madeira-Tapajós interfluve to be named as a new species (cardosoi ), or, whether they should be considered a subspecies of probatus , the birds that occupy the Madeira-Tapajós, and which has nomenclatural priority. Regardless, both cardosoi and probatus are very different from “Curve-billed” Scythebills found east of the Xingú (= multostriatus ) and the various forms found north of the Amazon and west of the Madeira.} Layard’s Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes layardi ) (E) - 1 seen at RAZ on 9/26; 2 (pair) seen nicely from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; 1 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2; and 1 heard with a mixed-species flock along the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3. {This is one of multiple species recently (2013) split from what used to be called “Lineated Woodcreeper”.} Slender-billed Xenops (Xenops tenuirostris ) - Singles seen at CJL on 10/1 (from Tower #1) and 10/4 (Serra #1 Trail near the river) were each moving with mixed-species flocks. There are very few confirmed records of this easily overlooked species from the CJL.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 42 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Plain Xenops (Xenops minutus ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/28, and another seen the following day along the Jatobá Trail (RAZ) were our only records. Point-tailed Palmcreeper (Berlepschia rikeri ) - 2 (pair) seen along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/28 (heard on a nearby trail the previous day). Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaner (Anabazenops dorsalis ) - 3 seen in remnant stands of Guadua bamboo along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30. Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner (Philydor erythrocercum ) - 1 seen by Michael at RAZ on 9/28; 1 observed at length at CJL on 9/30 and again on 10/5 was bathing at the water feature at Posinho; 2 seen along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/3 were part of a mixed-species flock; and 2 (pair) taped in along the Serra #1 Trail on 10/4 were also lured away from a mixed-species flock. Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner (Philydor erythropterum )* - 1 heard with a canopy mixed-species flock along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/3 was our only record. Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia ruficaudata ) - 1 seen well at RAZ on 9/28 was part of a mixed-species flock; 1 also seen with a mixed-species flock along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/3. Chestnut-winged Hookbill (Ancistrops strigilatus ) - 1 seen well at RAZ on 9/28 was part of a mixed-species flock; also heard at CJL on 10/2 (from Tower #2), and 10/4 (Serra #1 Trail). Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner (Automolus ochrolaemus )* - Singles heard from boats at RAZ on 9/28, and at CJL on 10/1 were our only records, and on each occasion, we were not in a good position to tape the bird in. Striped Woodhaunter (Automolus subulatus )* - Individuals heard with canopy/midstory mixed-species flocks along the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3, and along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4 were our only records. The bird on Serra #1 responded well to playback up to a point, but then stalled out in the midstory vine- tangles, where we were unable to spot it. Pale-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albescens )* - 1 heard in campina near the entrance gate at RAZ on 9/29 was our only record.

Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)

White-lored Tyrannulet (Ornithion inerme ) - 2 (pair) seen well from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, and 1 seen along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4; heard at RAZ on 9/27, and at CJL on 10/1,3,5 and 6. Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum )* - Singles heard 9/26 and 9/29 at RAZ were our only records. Mouse-colored Tyrannulet (Phaeomyias murina ) - 1 seen in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29 was our only record. Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet (Tyrannulus elatus ) - Close views of a pair at RAZ (right in the lodge clearing) on 9/26 and again on 9/29; one or more heard daily on every other day of the tour, but we never again made a point of calling them in. Forest Elaenia (Myiopagis gaimardii )* - Heard almost daily (most often as we were boating on the rio Azul or the rio Cristalino), but never seen.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 43 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Gray Elaenia (Myiopagis caniceps )* - 1 heard from the canopy at RAZ on 9/27 was our only record. Greenish Elaenia (Myiopagis viridicata ) - Singles seen in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29, and at Serra Nova (CJL) on 10/3. These are austral migrants wintering north of the breeding range. Large Elaenia (Elaenia spectabilis ) - 2 seen in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. This species is an austral migrant that spends the austral winter in the Amazon, but breeds in southern Brazil, south of the Basin. Small-billed Elaenia (Elaenia parvirostris ) - 1 seen in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. This is yet another wintering austral migrant, that should be returning to southern Brazil to breed by the end of October. Ochre-bellied Flycatcher (Mionectes oleagineus ) - 1 at RAZ on 9/27 was seen only by Brad; singles were seen coming to the water feature at Posinho (CJL) on 9/30 and again on 10/5. Sepia-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon amaurocephalus )* - Singles heard at RAZ on 9/27, and at Posinho (CJL) on 10/5. Guianan Tyrannulet (Zimmerius acer ) - A resident pair at the lodge clearing at RAZ showed nicely on 9/26,28,29; also heard from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and seen well from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. {This species is a split from the Slender-footed Tyrannulet complex. This complex consists of multiple named subspecies, some of which differ markedly from one another vocally. There are even some vocal differences within what is now called Guianan Tyrannulet on opposite banks of the Amazon. So, expect more taxonomic upheaval in this group.} Amazonian Inezia (Tyrannulet) (Inezia subflava ) - 1 seen at the unnamed smaller island adjacent to IA on 10/5. Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant (Myiornis ecaudatus )* - 1 heard at IA on 10/5 that I tried to tape in, but we never saw it. Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant (Lophotriccus galeatus ) - I taped one in for good views along the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3. Otherwise, 1–5 birds heard daily from 9/26– 10/6, except on 10/5, when we failed to record the species at IA. Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus minor ) - 1 seen nicely at IA on 10/5 was our only record. This species and the Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant seem to replace one another on opposite sides of the Teles Pires. White-bellied Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus griseipectus ) - 1 seen nicely at RAZ on 9/27; heard along the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3. Zimmer’s Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus minimus )* - Singles heard at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/28; and at CJL (Serra Nova Trail) on 10/3. This species is typically a nightmare to see. Spotted Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum maculatum ) - A pair was seen daily (9/26–29) around the lodge clearing at RAZ; also seen at IA on 10/5. Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum ) - 2 (pair) seen very well from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and another was heard from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 44 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Tower #1, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Yellow-margined Flycatcher (Tolmomyias assimilis paraensis ) (e) - 1 heard several times from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and 2 (pair) seen with mixed-species flock from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. {“Yellow-margined Flycatcher” actually consists of several vocally distinct species, of which paraensis is one of the most distinct. Its range is restricted to Brazil, south of the Amazon, from the west bank of the Tapajós eastward to probably the Tocantins. It will almost certainly be split eventually, as will several other named populations currently treated as subspecies, so keep track of where you have seen your “Yellow-margined Flycatchers”!} Gray-crowned Flycatcher (Tolmomyias poliocephalus ) - 2 seen nicely in the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/28 were the only ones seen, although we heard them near or along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 9/30, 10/2 and 10/6, and at IA on 10/5. Yellow-breasted Flycatcher (Tolmomyias flaviventris ) - Seen very well in the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/28 (where also heard on 9/26 and 9/29) for our only sighting, but also heard at IA on 10/5. Cinnamon-crested Spadebill (Platyrinchus saturatus )* - 1 heard along the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3 responded to playback by calling several times, but never came close enough for us to see. White-crested Spadebill (Platyrinchus platyrhynchos )* - Individuals were heard singing repeatedly from the forest understory when we were atop Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, but we never heard the species when we were in a position to track it down. “Amazonian” Royal Flycatcher (Onychorhynchus [coronatus] castelnaui ) - Singles seen at an active nest near Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, and along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/3. {In the absence of any comprehensive

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 45 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 vocal/morphological/genetic analysis to the contrary, SACC continues to recognize only a single polytypic species of “Royal Flycatcher”. However, morphological, biogeographical, and ecological distinctions between the various populations in this species-complex suggest that there may be as many as four different species involved. There are geographically isolated, brightly plumaged populations restricted to the semi- deciduous forests of the Tumbes region of sw Ecuador & nw Peru, and to the wet Atlantic Forest region of east coastal Brazil, whose ranges are separated by a wide- ranging, relatively dull-plumaged population that inhabits the Amazon Basin, with another dull-plumaged set of subspecies ranging from Mexico to northern South America on either side of the Andes and north of the range of the Tumbes birds. Plumage distinctions are obvious; vocalizations of all forms are variations on a common theme, but any distinctions have yet to be quantified.} Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher (Terenotriccus erythrurus )* - Heard on 9/27,28 at RAZ, and along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30, but never seen. Euler’s Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus euleri ) - 1 seen very well along the Jatobá Trail at RAZ on 9/29 and again at the water feature at Posinho (CJL) on 10/5; heard along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/3 and along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4. Drab Water Tyrant (Ochthornis littoralis ) - 2 (pair) seen by Michael near the floating dock at CJL on 10/1. Long-tailed Tyrant (Colonia colonus ) - 1 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2 turned out to be our only record. Cattle Tyrant (Machetornis rixosa ) - 1 inside the terminal departure lounge (!) at the Cuiabá airport on 9/25 seemed to be right at home (as was a Great Kiskadee who was perched and calling in the same spot on 10/7!). Large-headed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon megacephalum ) - 2 seen in the bamboo along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30; 1 seen along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/3 (and heard there on 10/6); and 2 (pair) seen in bamboo along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4. Rufous-tailed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon ruficauda ) - Pairs seen at RAZ on 9/26,27 and heard on 9/28,29; and 1 heard at Posinho (CJL) on 10/5. Dusky-tailed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon fuscicauda ) - 2 (pair) seen well in the bamboo along the Haffer Trail on 9/30 was our only record. Rufous-tailed Attila (Attila phoenicurus ) - 1 found and photographed by KZ along the Jatobá Trail during the afternoon break on 9/28 was a first record of this austral migrant for the RAZ (leader only). Cinnamon Attila (Attila cinnamomeus ) - 1 seen at RAZ on 9/27 was the only one seen by the group, although we heard the species calling from near the floating dock at CJL on multiple mornings as we were boarding the boat. Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus ) - 1 taped in along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/4 was the only one seen, although we heard it from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1 and again from the Rochas Trail on 10/6. Grayish Mourner (Rhytipterna simplex ) - 1–3 birds heard daily from 9/26–10/4; seen well at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/28, and at CJL (Serra #1 Trail) on 10/4. Dusky-capped Flycatcher (Myiarchus tuberculifer ) - 1 seen & heard at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2, and a pair seen & heard at the forest-edge near the beginning of the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/3.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 46 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Short-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus ferox ) - 1–2 seen/heard daily at RAZ (mostly around the lodge clearing); 1 heard at CJL on 10/4; 4+ seen at IA on 10/5. Lesser Kiskadee (Pitangus lictor ) - 1 heard along the rio Azul on 9/28; 1 seen along the rio Cristalino on 10/4; 2 seen at IA on 10/5. Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus ) - Multiple birds seen daily at RAZ (9/26–29), but we did not see any at CJL, except for 10/5, when we saw several at IA. Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua ) - 1 heard from the canopy above the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4. I actually called this bird in, but it was driven off by a cacique before anyone else could see it. Rusty-margined Flycatcher (Myiozetetes cayanensis) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 4 seen at IA on 10/5 were, somewhat surprisingly, our only records. Dusky-chested Flycatcher (Myiozetetes luteiventris )* - Singles heard at RAZ on 9/27 and from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1 were our only records. The bird at RAZ was calling from the canopy when we were inside the forest on a trail, and in the middle of working on a Long-billed Woodcreeper. The Tower #1 bird was with a distant mixed-species flock, just when the storm hit, driving us off the tower. Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus solitarius ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/28,29, and 1 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Piratic Flycatcher (Legatus leucophaius ) - 1–5 birds seen daily at RAZ 9/26–29; 1 heard at CJL on 9/30; 2 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Variegated Flycatcher (Empidonomus varius ) - 1–2 birds seen daily at RAZ 9/26–29; 1 seen from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; 1 seen along the Cristalino on the afternoon of 10/1. Sulphury Flycatcher (Tyrannopsis sulphurea ) - Pairs seen at RAZ on 9/27,28 and heard on 9/26. Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus ) - Common; multiple birds seen daily at RAZ, CJL & IA, except for 9/28 and 9/30, when none were recorded. Fork-tailed Flycatcher (Tyrannus savana ) - 3 seen over the campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26, and 5 seen there on 9/29; 30 seen during the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on the afternoon of 9/29.

Cotingidae (Cotingas)

Amazonian Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus ornatus ) - 1 seen near the mouth of the rio Cristalino (CJL) and at least 5 others seen displaying at an active lek at IA on 10/5. The show at the lek was the most spectacular that I’ve ever seen for this species! Spangled Cotinga (Cotinga cayana ) - 2 (1 male, 1 female) seen at RAZ on 9/26; 1 female and 2 males seen at RAZ on 9/28; 2 males seen from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; 6 birds (4 males; 2 females) seen from Tower #2 (CJL) were hawking and snapping at emerging winged termites/ants; 1 female seen with a canopy mixed-species flock along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/3; and 1 male seen at IA on 10/5.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 47 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Amazonian Umbrellabird (male), Ilha Ariosto, rio Teles Pires (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Spangled Cotinga (male), Tower #2, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 48 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Screaming Piha (Lipaugus vociferans ) - Multiple birds heard on most days at RAZ and CJL, but individuals seen near Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, and along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4, were the only ones seen. Purple-throated Cotinga (Porphyrolaema porphyrolaema ) - 1 sensational male seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2 was taped in for closer looks; 1 was also heard the following afternoon from the canopy along the Rochas Trail. Pompadour Cotinga (Xipholena punicea ) - 2 (male & female) seen at RAZ on 9/26, with a lone female seen there on 9/29; 1 heard along the Cristalino on 10/1; and 2 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Bare-necked Fruitcrow (Gymnoderus foetidus ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/26 (lodge clearing) and 9/29 (flying over the campina along the entrance road); 1 over the Cristalino (CJL) on 9/30; 5 seen well from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; and 4 (including a nearly all-white juvenile) watched at length from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, as they spent considerable time exploiting a major emergence of winged termites/ants above the canopy.

Purple-throated Cotinga (male), Tower #2, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Pipridae (Manakins)

Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin (Tyranneutes stolzmanni ) - Common by voice, with 1–5 birds heard daily from 9/26–10/6 and at RAZ, CJL & IA. We made a point of tracking one down along the Jatobá Trail at RAZ on 9/29 for good views. Blue-backed Manakin (Chiroxiphia pareola regina ) - 1 seen by some folks along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30; subsequently heard at CJL on 10/1 and 10/4, and 2 males seen very well along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/3. {Males of this subspecies ( regina ), which ranges from the west bank of the rio Tapajós (crossing the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 49 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Tapajós in the headwater region of the Teles Pires) west to eastern Peru and northern Bolivia, have a yellow crown as opposed to the red crowns of nominate males found in eastern Amazonia, the Guianan region, and, disjunctly, in the northern Atlantic Forest of Brazil. These two subspecies also differ greatly in vocalizations, and I would bet on them eventually proving to represent different species.} Snow-capped Manakin (Lepidothrix nattereri ) RE - We enjoyed repeated studies of these lovely regional endemics (the range of the southern subspecies gracilis extends west barely to eastern Bolivia, but the species is otherwise endemic to the Madeira- Tapajós interfluve, south of the Amazon, in Brazil) on both afternoon vigils at Posinho, where males and females came in repeatedly to drink and bathe on 9/30 and again on 10/5. Also heard along the Haffer and Serra Nova trails (CJL) on 9/30 and 10/3 respectively.

Snow-capped Manakin (male), Posinho, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Flame-crowned Manakin (Heterocercus linteatus ) - 1 male seen along the Jatobá Trail at RAZ on 9/29, after having only heard individuals on 9/27,28; also heard near the rio Cristalino along the early part of the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4. Fiery-capped Manakin (Machaeropterus pyrocephalus ) - 5 heard along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/26, and 2 seen along one of the forest trails on 9/27, with 2 more heard on 9/28. White-crowned Manakin (Dixiphia pipra ) - 2 females seen at RAZ on 9/26 and 1 seen on 9/28 were feeding at fruiting melastomes; 3 (including a male) were seen at RAZ on 9/29; and 2 (male & female) were seen coming to the water feature to bathe at Posinho on 9/30 and again on 10/5. Red-headed Manakin (Ceratopipra rubrocapilla ) - 4 at RAZ on 9/26; 1 heard along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30; 1 male seen displaying along the trail to Tower #2 (CJL)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 50 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 on 10/2; 1–3 heard along the Serra Nova Trail (10/3) and the Serra #1 Trail (10/4); and 2 males seen along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/6. Wing-barred Piprites (Piprites chloris ) - 2 seen nicely along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30 were the only ones seen, although we heard them from both towers and from the Rochas Trail on 10/1–3.

Tityridae (Tityras, Becards & Allies)

Masked Tityra (Tityra semifasciata ) - 3 at RAZ on 9/27; 2 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2; and 1 seen along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4. Brown-winged Schiffornis (Schiffornis turdina ) - 2 at RAZ on 9/26 and again on 9/29, with 1 heard on 9/27; 1 seen bathing at the water feature at Posinho on 9/30 and again on 10/5; 1 heard at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2; 2 seen along the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3; and 1 seen at IA on 10/5. {Note: This is one of several splits from what was formerly known as “Thrush-like Schiffornis”. As currently treated, the Brown-winged Schiffornis occupies a broad range through the Amazon, with a disjunct population in the northern portion of Brazil’s Atlantic Forest. Further analysis may show that populations currently lumped under the name of “Brown-winged Schiffornis” may, in fact, be worthy of further taxonomic division.} White-browed Purpletuft (Iodopleura isabellae ) - 2 seen well from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2 were among the many birds observed sallying after emerging winged termites/ants. White-winged Becard (Pachyramphus polychopterus ) - 1 female seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 1 male taped in for close studies at the overlook at Serra Nova (CJL) on 10/3, were our only records. Black-capped Becard (Pachyramphus marginatus )* - 1 heard along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 10/1 was our only record. Pink-throated Becard (Pachyramphus minor ) - 1 male seen with a mixed-species flock from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and a pair seen in semi-deciduous forest at Serra Nova (CJL) on 10/3 were our only records.

Vireonidae (Vireos & Greenlets)

Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis ) - 1 seen nicely in the semi- deciduous forest at Serra Nova (CJL) on 10/3; singles were heard along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29, and at IA on 10/5. Gray-chested Greenlet (Hylophilus semicinereus ) - One or more individuals heard at RAZ on 9/27,28, and at CJL on 9/30, 10/1,3 & 5, but seen only along the Serra #1 trail (CJL) on 10/4, when I managed to tape a responsive pair out of a canopy mixed-species flock for repeated good views. Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo (Vireolanius leucotis ) - Heard with canopy mixed-species flocks along the Haffer Trail (CJL) on 9/30, and from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, but seen only from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1. Tawny-crowned Greenlet (Tunchiornis ochraceiceps )* - Seen only by KZ (leader only) along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/2, but heard by all along the Serra Nova Trail

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 51 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 (CJL) on 10/3, when, despite much effort, we could never coax the singing bird out of the mixed-species understory flock with which it was associated. Dusky-capped Greenlet (Pachysylvia hypoxantha ) - Seen at RAZ on 9/28 (same tree with the Sclater’s Antwren and other canopy flock members), and heard on five other days at RAZ and CJL. Red-eyed (“Chivi”) Vireo (Vireo olivaceus ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/29 were both along the entrance road. {These are referable to one of the South American breeding subspecies (considered by some authorities to represent a species distinct from North American-breeding olivaceus ), and are not boreal migrants. Many of the birds seen in Amazonia are actually austral migrants that spend May–September (the austral winter) “wintering” in the Amazon, and then return to southern Brazil to breed in the Atlantic Forest from October–April.}

Corvidae (Crows, Jays & Magpies)

Plush-crested Jay (Cyanocorax chrysops ) - 2 birds along the entrance road at RAZ during the afternoon break on 9/28 were seen only by KZ (leader only).

Hirundinidae (Swallows & Martins)

Black-collared Swallow (Pygochelidon melanoleuca ) - 4 birds seen in the rocky rapids of the rio Teles Pires near IA on 10/5 constituted our only record. White-banded Swallow (Atticora fasciata ) - Common; seen daily good numbers along the rio Azul and the rio Cristalino, including lots of recently fledged juveniles still being fed by adults. Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers along all rivers at all locales visited. Gray-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea ) - Several seen at Cuiabá and Alta Floresta on 9/25 and 10/6, and in the open country along the road from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29. Our only other records were of 1 at RAZ on 9/27, and 2 birds over the rio Cristalino on 9/30. Brown-chested Martin (Progne tapera ) - 2 seen near the mouth of the rio Cristalino on 10/5 was our only record. White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer ) - Common; seen daily in good numbers (including adults feeding fledged juveniles) along all rivers at all locales. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica ) - 2 seen over the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/28 was our only record of this boreal migrant.

Troglodytidae (Wrens)

Tooth-billed Wren (Odontorchilus cinereus ) RE - We enjoyed several great studies of this regional specialty at CJL, seeing a pair particularly well from Tower #1 on 10/1, as well as from Tower #2 on 10/2 and from the overlook at Serra Nova on 10/3.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 52 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Tooth-billed Wren, Tower #1, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

House Wren (Troglodytes aedon )* - 1 heard from campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29 was our only record. Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus ) - This normally vocal species was pretty much missing-in-action throughout our trip, but we did tape in a responsive pair along the Serra Nova Trail at CJL on 10/3. Moustached Wren (Pheugopedius genibarbis ) - Seen on 9/29 at RAZ (and heard there on 9/27); heard at CJL (Serra Nova Trail) on 10/3, and at IA on 10/5. Buff-breasted Wren (Cantorchilus leucotis ) - We had good looks at a pair at RAZ on 9/28, and of another pair at IA on 10/5, and heard them on at least four other days along the rio Cristalino.

Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers & Gnatwrens)

Long-billed Gnatwren (Ramphocaenus melanurus ) - Great views of a bird that I lured down to eye-level along the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4; 1-2 birds heard on 9/27,28 at RAZ, and on 9/30–10/3 at CJL. Pará (Guianan) Gnatcatcher (Polioptila [guianensis] paraensis ) E - 2 (pair) that Brad taped in for good studies at RAZ on 9/28; 1 heard singing from Tower #2 (CJL) responded briefly to my playback, but could not be lured into view out of the mixed- species flock with which it seemed to be associated. {SACC is still treating paraensis as a subspecies of Guianan Gnatcatcher, but published papers have presented vocal, morphological and genetic evidence suggesting that populations on opposite banks of the Amazon, rio Negro, and rio Madeira each represent distinct species under the Biological Species Concept. The Brazilian Classification Committee, which tends to adhere to a

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 53 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 more liberal (in terms of species-limits), Phylogenetic Species Concept, has adopted the split, whereas the more conservative AOS (formerly AOU)-sponsored South American Classification Committee has split on the issue.}

Turdidae (Thrushes & Allies)

Hauxwell’s Thrush (Turdus hauxwelli )* - 1 heard along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/28 was our only record.

Parulidae (New World Warblers)

Riverbank Warbler (Myiothlypis rivularis ) - 1 seen coming to the waterhole at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2 was our only record.

Thraupidae (Tanagers & Allies)

Red-capped Cardinal (Paroaria gularis ) - 2–5 seen daily along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/26–28; pairs seen along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 10/1 and 10/4. Red-billed Pied Tanager (Lamprospiza melanoleuca ) - 1 seen with a mixed-species canopy flock along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/3 by Jill was the only one seen, although we heard their distinctive calls from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and from the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4. Flame-crested Tanager (Tachyphonus cristatus ) - 2 (pair) seen with a canopy mixed- species flock at RAZ on 9/28; 2 (pair) seen with the big mixed-species flock that came past Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; and 6 seen with a mixed-species flock from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Fulvous-crested Tanager (Tachyphonus surinamus ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 4 seen there on 9/27. White-shouldered Tanager (Tachyphonus luctuosus ) - 1 male seen from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and 2 (pair) seen from the Serra Nova Trail (CJL) on 10/3. White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus ) - 1 male seen in campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. Red-shouldered Tanager (Tachyphonus phoeniceus ) - 3 (1 male; 2 females) seen in campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo ) - Oddly, we did not see this normally common forest-edge species at RAZ until our last morning (9/29) when we saw 5. We heard it along the rio Cristalino on 9/30, 10/1 and 10/4, and then saw several at IA, where they were common, on 10/5. Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus ) - 10–20/day seen at RAZ; several seen on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29, and in the lodge clearing and along the river at CJL the next day (9/30), but not seen subsequently, until 10/5, when we saw 10+ at IA. Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum ) - Common; 8–20 seen daily from 9/26–10/6, except for 10/3 at CJL, when none were noted.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 54 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Masked Tanager (Tangara nigrocincta ) - 5 seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 2 seen there on 9/27; 1 seen from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; and 2 (pair) seen at Serra #1 (CJL) on 10/4. Blue-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanicollis ) - 1–3 seen daily at RAZ, from 9/26–29; seen only once at CJL, from Tower #2 on 10/2. Dotted Tanager (Tangara varia ) - 1 male seen well and photographed at RAZ on 9/26 was part of a mixed-species assemblage of frugivores visiting a fruiting tree. This is a poorly known, rare bird throughout its fairly extensive range.

Dotted Tanager, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Turquoise Tanager (Tangara mexicana ) - Our most frequently encountered Tangara , with multiple birds (4–10) seen daily at RAZ; 10+ seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2; 2 (pair) seen at Serra Nova on 10/3; and 6+ seen at IA on 10/5. Paradise Tanager (Tangara chilensis ) - 4 seen from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1, and 10 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2 (some of which taped in to the tree right next to the tower); heard at RAZ on 9/28. Opal-rumped Tanager (Tangara velia ) - 3 at RAZ on 9/26 and 6 there on 9/27; 10+ seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Bay-headed Tanager (Tangara gyrola ) - 1 seen at a fruiting tree at RAZ on 9/26 (KZ only), and another seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Green-and-gold Tanager (Tangara schrankii ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/26 (Brad only) and 9/28, and at Lagoinha (CJL) on 10/2. Swallow Tanager (Tersina viridis ) - 2 at RAZ on 9/27 and 4 there on 9/28 were our only records. Black-faced Dacnis (Dacnis lineata ) - 1 male seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, was, surprisingly, our only record.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 55 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Paradise Tanager, Tower #2, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Yellow-bellied Dacnis (Dacnis flaviventer ) - Lone males seen in the lodge clearing at RAZ on 9/28,29; 2 (pair) seen along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 10/1; and 5 seen at IA on 10/5. Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana ) - 2–5 seen daily at RAZ; 1 seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2; and 2 seen from Serra Nova (CJL) on 10/3. Short-billed Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes nitidus ) - 5–8 seen daily at RAZ from 9/26– 28. Purple Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes caeruleus ) - 2 (pair) at RAZ on 9/27 and 1 (male) there on 9/28; 1 male seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2; and 8 seen at the Serra Nova overlook (CJL) on 10/3. Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza ) - Singles seen at RAZ on 9/26 and 9/28 were our only records. Yellow-backed Tanager (Hemithraupis flavicollis ) - 2 at RAZ on 9/26 and 1 there on 9/27; 2 (pair) seen from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2. Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina ) - Common in the pasturelands between Alta Floresta and RAZ on 9/25, between RAZ and the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29, and between Fazenda Cristalino and Alta Floresta on 10/6. 2-5 birds also seen around the lodge clearing and in the campina along the entrance road at RAZ 9/26–29, and 2 birds seen in the semi-deciduous forest-edge from the Serra Nova (CJL) overlook on 10/3. Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola ) - 3 at RAZ on 9/26, 5 at RAZ on 9/27, and 2 at RAZ on 9/29; 4 at IA on 10/5. Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak (Parkerthraustes humeralis ) - Nice looks at 1 bird that was part of a diverse mixed-species flock that barreled past Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 56 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Slate-colored Grosbeak (Saltator grossus ) - 1 seen nicely from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1; also heard from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, and from the Serra #1 Trail (CJL) on 10/4.

Emberizidae (Buntings & New World Sparrows)

Pectoral Sparrow (Arremon taciturnus )* - Heard at IA on 10/5. Grassland Sparrow (Ammodramus humeralis ) - 1 seen in campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29; several flushed from the roadside as we drove through pasturelands from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29. Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis ) - 1 seen in campina along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29 was our only record.

Cardinalidae (Cardinals & Allies)

Rose-breasted Chat (Granatellus pelzelni ) - We had nice looks at a pair of these striking birds along the Haffer Trail at CJL on 9/30; heard 1 along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on the afternoon of 10/3 while we were in the middle of looking for the antpitta; and then saw 1 along the Rochas Trail near the Saleiro on 10/6.

Icteridae (Orioles, Blackbirds & Allies)

Red-breasted Meadowlark (Sturnella militaris ) - 5 seen in open pasturelands on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29, and 2 seen between Fazenda Cristalino and Alta Floresta on 10/6. Formerly known as “Red-breasted Blackbird”. Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis ) - Seen only on 9/29 at RAZ. Giant Cowbird (Molothrus oryzivorus ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 1 seen there on 9/27. Epaulet Oriole (Icterus cayenensis ) - 2 (pair) seen at RAZ on 9/27, and singles seen along the rio Cristalino (CJL) on 9/30, and from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1. {Note that this species no longer includes the smaller, vocally distinct populations from southern and central Brazil, whose epaulets vary in color from yellow to tawny to chestnut, and which are now considered a separate species known as “Variable Oriole”.} Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela ) - Common; up to 25 seen daily, particularly along the rivers. Green Oropendola (Psarocolius viridis ) - 2 birds seen distantly from Tower #1 (CJL) on 10/1 appeared to have an active nest. Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus ) - 2 seen at RAZ on 9/26,27, and 1 seen at IA on 10/5. Olive (Amazonian) Oropendola (Psarocolius bifasciatus ) - 1–5 seen daily at RAZ; similar numbers recorded on 9/30, 10/3 and 10/4 from CJL, mostly seen from the boat as individuals flying across the river.

Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias & Allies)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 57 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Thick-billed Euphonia (Euphonia laniirostris ) - 1 male seen at IA on 10/5 was our only record. Golden-bellied (White-lored) Euphonia (Euphonia chrysopasta ) - 2 (pair) seen at RAZ on 9/26, and 1 singing male taped in to Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2 were our only records. Rufous-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia rufiventris ) - Common; 2-4 birds seen/heard daily from 9/26–10/6 at RAZ and CJL, except for 9/30 and 10/5, when none were recorded.

Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)

House Sparrow (Passer domesticus ) - Seen only at the kilo restaurant in Alta Floresta on 10/6.

Total = 386 species

MAMMALS:

Southern Tamandua (Lesser Anteater) (Tamandua tetradactyla ) - 1 seen on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29. Dusky Titi Monkey (Callicebus moloch )* - Heard at RAZ on 9/27. Brown (Black-capped/Tufted) Capuchin (Cebus apella ) - Seen at RAZ on 9/28,29, and at CJL on 10/1,2,4 and 5. Red-nosed Bearded Saki (Chiropotes albinasus ) - Several superb studies of these spectacular primates. Marjean saw them at RAZ on 9/27, and the rest of us caught up with a troop the next day (9/28). They were heard at RAZ on 9/29. We saw them from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2; heard them along the Rochas Trail (CJL) on 10/4, and saw them along the Rochas Trail on 10/6.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 58 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Red-nosed Bearded Saki, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Red-handed Howler Monkey (Alouatta belzebul ) - Heard at RAZ on 9/27; and seen by some at CJL on the afternoon of 10/2. White-whiskered Spider Monkey (Ateles marginatus ) - Great studies of troops at RAZ on 9/26 & 27, and heard there on 9/28. We also watched a troop feeding in the canopy of an emergent tree from Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2, and heard them at CJL on 10/5. Capybara (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris ) - Marjean’s favorites! We saw one or more “blockheads” daily (9/29–10/5) along the rio Cristalino at CJL. Long-nosed Bat (Rhynchonycteris naso ) - 5 seen along the rio Cristalino on 9/30 was our only record. Bat sp.? - Unidentified small bats seen at dusk on most nights. Puma (Puma concolor ) - 1 spectacular adult that materialized out of the forest gloom and strolled right past the bench where we were seated at Lagoinha on the afternoon of 10/2. Neotropical Otter (Lontra longicaudis ) - 2 seen along the rio Azul (RAZ) on 9/27, and another seen there on 9/28. Brazilian Tapir (Tapirus terrestris ) - 1 seen on the drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29 gave us spectacular studies for an extended period. We saw 2 more on our morning boat trip up the rio Cristalino on 9/30, 1 on an afternoon boat trip to Limão on 10/4, and 1 downstream from the lodge as we were leaving on 10/6.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 59 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Brazilian Tapir, rio Cristalino, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Collared Peccary (Pecari tajuca ) - 2 seen along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. White-lipped Peccary (Tayassu pecari ) - A heard of perhaps 20 at Lagoinha on the afternoon of 10/2 was headed right for the waterhole, when they either saw us or smelled us, panicked, and stampeded back into the forest. Red Brocket Deer (Mazama americana ) - 1 seen at CJL on 10/3.

Total = 15 species

REPTILES, AMPHIBIANS & FISH:

Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus ) - A few seen along the rio Cristalino, including one that had clearly tangled with a porcupine, and had a mouthful of quills to show for it!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 60 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Spectacled Caiman after tangling with a porcupine, rio Cristalino (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Cuvier’s Dwarf Caiman (Paleosuchus palpebrosus ) - 1 seen along the rio Azul. Yellow-footed Tortoise (Brazilian Giant Tortoise) (Chelonoidis denticulata ) - 1 seen on our drive from RAZ to the Fazenda Cristalino boat launch on 9/29, and another on the trail to Tower #2 (CJL) on 10/2.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 61 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Yellow-footed Tortoise, road from RAZ to Cristalino boat launch (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Geoffroy’s Toadhead Turtle (Phrynops geoffroanus ) - I believe that the majority of turtles seen along the Cristalino were this species. Green Iguana (Iguana iguana ) - Scattered individuals seen along the rio Azul & rio Cristalino. Ameiva Lizard (Ameiva ameiva ) - Scattered individuals seen at both RAZ & CJL. Golden Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin ) - A few individuals seen near the common area at CJL. Mediterranean Gecko (Hemidactylus mabouia ) - This introduced species was prevalent around the buildings & cabins at both lodges. Amazon Skink (Mabuya nigropunctata ) - Scattered individuals seen in the forest along the various trails at RAZ and CJL. Spotted Anole (Anolis punctatus ) - Scattered individuals seen in the forest along the various trails at RAZ and CJL. Cat-eyed Snake (Leptodeira sp.) - 1 at RAZ. Smooth-sided Toad (Bufo guttatus ) - Seen particularly well at RAZ. Cane Toad (Bufo marinus ) - Seen at RAZ and CJL. Unidentified tree frogs - Seen at RAZ and CJL. Caecilian sp. - 1 found along the entrance road at RAZ on 9/29. Matrinxã (Brycon sp.) - These were the common small fish seen at the stingray stream at RAZ. Stingray #1 (Pomatotrygonidae) - This was the common, dark stingray with pale yellow spots seen at RAZ.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 62 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017 Stingray #2 (Pomatotrygonidae) - This was the paler, and less common stingray, with the ornate, ocellated pattern, seen at RAZ.

Golden Tegu, Cristalino Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Stingray species #1, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 63 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017

Stingray species #2, Rio Azul Jungle Lodge (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 64 Brazil’s Southern Amazon, 2017