BUYING GUIDE MAY 2013 The view from a vineyard in Montalcino. 61 WASHINGTON 2 TUSCANY 63 IDAHO 24 BORDEAUX 64 VIRGINIA 31 CHAMPAGNE 65 NEW YORK 33 SPAIN 68 SPIRITS 41 SOUTH AFRICA 70 BEER 44 ARGENTINA FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 46 CALIFORNIA BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM MICK ROCK/CEPHAS WineMag.com | 1 TUSCANY THE 90-POINT 2008 VINTAGE IN BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO he 2008 Brunello di Montalcino—arguably Italy’s favorite wine—has “Acidity can be a determining factor in the longevity of a Brunello,” says recently hit the market. Many consumers are wondering what to ex- vintner Donatella Cinelli Colombini. “The key, however, is finding wines Tpect from the vintage, which I have rated 90 out of 100 points. Will that show balance and harmony in the manner that acidity is delivered.” the new vintage be as well received as the soft, rich wines of 2007 and the The Consorzio seems to think the 2008 shows that balance, scoring the elegant, refined wines of 2006? vintage four out of five stars. The 2006 and 2007 vintages both received Austerity—an overused word in the corridors of European government five stars from the Consorzio, and I awarded them 93 points and 95 points, and finance agencies these days—happens to perfectly describe these respectively. wines. The 2008 summer was cool and moderate in temperature, and there In addition to checking out the 2008s, I also reviewed many recently re- were hailstorms and showers at certain locations on the southern side of leased 2007 Riserva Brunellos this month. As you will see from the scores, the appellation just before harvest, resulting in wines with high acidity and the quality of the vintage is undeniable, with more than 75% of the wines bright berry tones. reviewed receiving 90-points or more. “The 2008 wines are austere,” says Giancarlo Pacenti, vice president of Although Brunello takes center stage in this issue’s Buying Guide, we the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino and a Brunello producer. also give a nod to other iconic European regions, like Bordeaux and Cham- “Sangiovese is a variety that shows naturally high acidity, so the challenge pagne in France, or Rioja and Ribera del Duero in Spain. From the New in a vintage like this is keeping that freshness in check.” World, check out reviews of wines from Argentina and South Africa, plus Indeed, some wines do show a nervous vein of sharp acidity, but they are hundreds of domestic wines from across the United States. well balanced by plump, ripe fruit tones of cherry and blackberry. Cheers! —MONICA LARNER impression. But the firm tannins and bright acidity re- cassis and blackberry. You’ll also find polished mineral 2008 BRUNELLO mind you of its deep Tuscan roots. Vias Imports. —M.L. nuances, cola, ginger and Spanish cedar. It shows inten- Uccelliera 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. abv: 14% Price: $59 sity in the mouth, firm tannins and bright acidity. Cellar 94 Here’s a beautiful interpretation from the 2008 this wine 10 years. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L. vintage that shows balance, harmony and intensity all La Rasina 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. abv: 14.5% Price: $67 zipped up into one tight package. That seamless inte- 93 All the elements of this Brunello work beau- gration, followed by rich extraction, gives the wine mo- tifully together. The bouquet is redolent of soft black Tenute Niccolai 2008 Podere Bellarina mentum overall. Although this is a different wine from fruit, plum cake, leather, spice and tobacco and the 93 (Brunello di Montalcino). Brawny tones of past vintages, the quality is just as high. Hold 5–10 wine shows thick, velvety concentration in the mouth. oak spice, milled pepper, eucalyptus, hummus and Ben- years. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American The tannins are supple and firm and there’s a touch of gay are followed by a delicate touch of menthol fresh- importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. bright acidity that is not too sharp or in any way unbal- ness. Balsam notes of dried rosemary and ginger are di- abv: NA Price: $65 anced. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. vine. Give this wine a few minutes in your glass and a abv: NA Price: $56 few years in the cellar to evolve even further. Angelini Casanova di Neri 2008 Tenuta Nuova Wine. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 93 (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Tenuta Loacker Corte Pavone 2008 Brunello di abv: 15% Price: $60 Nuova opens with inky dark consistency and immedi- 93 Montalcino. From one of the most creative. ate aromas of old spice, leather, toasted oak and dried quality-minded estates in Montacino, this beautiful Altesino 2008 Montosoli (Brunello di fruit that pop right out of the glass. Dark licorice and Brunello opens with beautiful intensity and elegant 92 Montalcino). Montosoli is a monumental wine espresso add to the overall complexity. There’s a touch aromas of cassis, espresso bean, licorice and cola. The that delivers pulp and richness with ripe fruit aromas, of sweet spice on the close with ripe, chewy tannins. fruit is organically farmed and there is a touch of cherry inky concentration and a touch of roasted spice at the Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. sweetness on the finish that distinguishes it. Verity Wine back. The wine is savory and tangy with loads of aro- abv: 15% Price: $80 Partners. —M.L. matic intensity, but that telltale acidity from the 2008 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA vintage hits you at the back of the throat and keeps the Cupano 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. palate refreshed. Winebow. —M.L. 93 Cupano delivers an ace card in 2008 with its Siro Pacenti 2008 Brunello di Montalcino . abv: 14% Price: $120 Brunello that has seemingly defied all the difficulties of 93 Siro Pacenti hits the nail on the head with a wine the vintage. The wine is elegant and complex, with pret- that is concentrated and rich, but elegant and fresh at Capanna 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. ty layers of dried fruit, leather, tobacco, spice and dark the same time. Fleshy extraction is supported by black 92 There’s a steady, balanced approach to this chocolate. The acidity frames the brightness of the fruit cherry, licorice, rum cake, leather and spice. The wine’s Brunello that sees seamless integration of red fruit, and the mouthfeel is long and plush. Drink after 2018. natural freshness offsets that fruity richness and drives a cassis, leather, cola and dried rosemary aromas. Bright Verdeor Select Vintages. Cellar Selection. —M.L. long, smooth finish. Drink after 2016. Michael Skurnik acidity only serves to underline its overall liveliness. abv: 14.5% Price: $130 Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Very different from the softer 2007 vintage, this wine abv: 14.5% Price: $85 will appeal to those who appreciate a more traditional La Poderina 2008 Brunello di Montalci- style. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. 93 no. La Poderina is a beautiful, well-managed Tenuta La Fuga 2008 Brunello di Mon- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 estate that playfully straddles both a traditional and 93 talcino. Tenuta la Fuga (from Tenute Folonari) modern approach to Brunello. Thick black fruit aromas shows the best of the 2008 vintage with dark fruit nu- ances of candied fruit, rum cake, pomegranate juice, and tangy spice give the wine a soft and opulent first Continued on Page 11 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2013 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors Bollinger 2004 La Grande Année Brut Terlato 2009 Episode (Napa Valley). Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle. 96 (Champagne). A blend of 66% Pinot Noir 95 Terlato’s focus on Bordeaux-style reds has paid If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s and 34% Chardonnay, this is opulent and full bodied, off in the last several vintages, and this blend of Caber- initials appear following the note. When no initials appear with toast and wood flavors. Rich and ripe, this beautiful net Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot continues the following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect wine is generous and still young, with just a touch of bit- success streak. It has ripe, spicy flavors of blackberry the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits terness at the end. Terlato Wines International. Cellar jam, black currant and sweet, toasty oak, and the tannin- Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Selection. —R.V. acid structure is balanced. Still, it’s an astringent wine Lauren Buzzeo. abv: 12% Price: $155 that needs time in the cellar, so give it at least eight years. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by It could age well beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.4% Price: $175 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.