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Home , Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti (region), Oak (wine)

CLASSICO

Left: hand-picking grapes at time in the Gran Selezione Chianti Classico zone in Classico (-growers’ council) elucidates: ‘Gran Selezione can be made only from grapes grown on the property [‘integralmente revisited prodotto’] whose name appears on the label. By contrast, Chianti Classico can be made from bought-in grapes or bought-in bulk .’ Four years on from the first release of Chianti Classico’s top-tier Gran Selezione wines, Monty Waldin Adding value assesses the ongoing debate around the classification Bulk wine prices for Chianti Classico are three times lower than those for ’s other red-wine titans of Brunello di , IN FEBRUARY 2014 the first wines labelled examining reams of regulations looking for and della . Chianti under Chianti Classico’s newly created substantive technical wine-growing or Classico’s market under-valuation is great top-level tier of Gran Selezione were released, differences between the Chianti news for savvy wine buyers and drinkers, and from the 2010 . Gran Selezione’s Classico trio. There are none. stems from Chianti Classico being often introduction was controversial, to say the All three styles come from an identical area (understandably) muddled in consumers’ least, given that no fewer than 19 different – nine towns between and , of minds with basic Chianti wines. This is despite iterations of red Tuscan wines bearing the which more below (and see box, p69); identical Chianti Classico coming from 20% lower- word ‘Chianti’ already existed. grapes (80%-100% , 20% other yielding vines compared to Chianti. The onus, one might think, was on Chianti Tuscan or French grapes); identical maximum And in terms of its history, Chianti Classico Classico’s Gran Selezione – funded partly by yields; and potentially identical winemaking has pedigree, having been first officially the wine-growers, but mainly by EU subsidies and ageing techniques. defined as a region in 1716, more than 150 – to demonstrate its clear points of difference Technical differences between bottled years before even from the two existing tiers below it; namely Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and existed, for example. As mentioned, only nine Chianti Classico Normale at the base of the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione are all but towns (see box, p69) qualify for Chianti Classico quality pyramid, and Chianti Classico Riserva, non-existent – unless the next time you wander and therefore potential ‘Gran Selezione’ wine which now finds itself in the middle. into a wine store you specifically ask for a status. In contrast, a full nine pages of A4 Save yourself the eye-watering pain of wine with a dry extract level of 26 grams per paper are needed to list the town boundaries litre (Chianti Classico Gran Selezione) rather of the lesser Chianti zone. than one with only 25g/l (Chianti Classico So can Gran Selezione be seen as attempting Riserva), or even – heaven forfend – one with to give Chianti Classico – or the estate-grown ‘Gran Selezione can be only 24g/l (Chianti Classico). and bottled version of it at least – some due To me as a wine lover, the best part of the market recognition? Apparently not, or not so made only from grapes winemaking side is that no wines in any of the far anyway, given that only 7% of Chianti three categories need see any wood. Classico’s production is estimated to be bottled grown on the property ageing is optional – hooray! as Gran Selezione. Critics say Gran Selezione is Allowing 100% unoaked, 100% Sangiovese devalued by allowing some to label whose name appears on Chianti Classico Gran Selezione creates the batches of several hundred thousand bottles potential to make what can be the most pure, at a time as such; but as Château Latour makes Giovanni Manetti of the the label’ complex and compelling Sangiovese wines on several hundred thousand bottles each year, respected Fontodi (below) the planet (yes, my friends in Montalcino of then big is not automatically bad. Brunello fame, where lashings of oak are The fact that precise data regarding the mandatory, you read that right). success or otherwise of the Gran Selezione However, as outlined above, the ‘no oak category appears to be confidential (despite its required’ option already existed for both creation having benefitted from sizeable EU Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva. funds aimed at promoting the farming sector) I see really only one substantive aspect to is an irritant to the likes of Paolo Cianferoni of Gran Selezione that makes it unique and the Caparsa winery in Radda. which Giovanni Manetti, of the much- ‘Gran Selezione was needless; an extra layer respected family-owned Fontodi winery and of confusion created by marketing people vice-president of the Consorzio Vino Chianti hoping to help Chianti Classico out of a ➢

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sales crisis,’ Cianferoni states. ‘Gran Selezione was designed to tempt back those producers who switched from labelling their wine as Chianti Classico to labelling them as “Toscana Rosso” instead, when Bordeaux-influenced Chianti-style wines were in fashion. ‘My best wine at Caparsa is labelled Chianti Classico Riserva and won’t become Gran Selezione. Adding value to Chianti Classico should have been so much simpler. Just allow producers to put the name of the village the wine comes from on the label. They do this in Burgundy and it seems to work rather well there. Why can’t we do it here, too?’ -free The allusion to Burgundy is a frequent Chianti Above: the annual But, as things stand, Chianti Classico’s Classico refrain, one usually made by smaller, tasting of new-release producers can’t officially articulate the terroir-driven producers like Monte Bernardi’s Chianti Classicos in differences between a wine from any of the Michael Schmelzer. ‘Chianti Classico’s Florence region’s nine towns,’ he adds. Sangiovese and Burgundy’s Both Schmelzer and Roberto Stucchi are the same size,’ he says. ‘We can’t Prinetti of Badia a Coltibuono in Gaiole would imagine every Pinot Noir leaving the Côte d’Or go even further. Stucchi says, ‘Rather than just being called “Burgundy” – but that’s what making the Chianti Classico pyramid higher we do in Chianti Classico. Every wine leaving with Gran Selezione, it would have made more Chianti Classico, be it a Riserva or a Gran sense to have the exact geographic mention of Selezione, is still just a Chianti Classico. where the grapes came from on the label. Each ‘On sales trips I get told, “We love the wines main Chianti Classico commune has individual but we already have three Chianti Classicos on , around hamlets such as Monti in the list.” You can’t imagine someone saying Gaiole, and Lamole or Panzano which are very “I already have three Bordeaux, or three different parts of Greve, and so on.’ Burgundies – I don’t need any more.” Barolo Another sticking point Stucchi Prinetti lovers actively seek out the differences in identifies ‘is that you do not have to declare at from the communes of, say, La Morra, harvest that a specific lot of grapes will Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba. become a Gran Selezione, so in the end it’s just the tasting panel that chooses just before bottling what can be labelled as such.’ ‘Gran Selezione was This tasting panel, appointed by the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, is fully needless; an extra layer independent. Yet debates rage about whether the panel favours modern-style wines – very of confusion created by bright fruit, plumped up with a bit of ➢ marketing people hoping to help Chianti Classico Chianti by numbers Chianti is made up of eight regions: Chianti Classico: normale, Riserva out of a sales crisis’ Chianti, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti and now Gran Selezione (20). Paolo Cianferoni, Caparsa (below) Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Senesi, The 71,800ha of the Chianti Chianti Colline Pisane, Chianti Classico zone covers nine towns: Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli the entire territories of Castellina in and Chianti Rùfina, each of which Chianti, , Greve in has a riserva category – so that’s 16 Chianti and and possible names to differentiate parts of the territories of Barberino between on your already Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, – plus a single Chianti Superiore Poggibonsi, San Casciano Val di category (17), plus three types of Pesa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. Photograph: Francesco Guazzelli Francesco Photograph:

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Merlot and sprinkled with from -ageing – or more traditional, grainier and more obviously Sangiovese wines whose fruit is slower to emerge. Do I love Chianti Classico? Yes, it is one of the world’s great red wines, and still hugely undervalued compared to Brunello or Barolo. The best have mouthwatering, high-wire fruit and deft, savoury richness. But given that the rules for Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Above: Monte Bernardi’s Michael Schmelzer Gran Selezione are exactly the same, to all bought the Chianti Classico estate in 2003 intents and purposes, it is impossible to Above: Roberto Stucchi comment on any differences. The argument representative range of styles, whether 100% Prinetti has doubts that Gran Selezione has allowed producers to Tuscan grapes or Tuscan-French blends. over the Classico label sell the same wines for a higher price requires Another thing to remember: the rules allow statistics and infallable blind tasters. wines made prior to the introduction of Gran In my experience Gran Selezione can Selezione to be bottled as such – Isole e Olena, provide Chianti Classico fans with a for example, released a Gran Selezione 2006. The term may mean ‘great selection’, but the only problem is that the people running ‘Gran Selezione can provide Chianti the show appear ambivalent about making it easier to dig deeper into Chianti Classico’s Classico fans with a representative range truly thrilling ‘Gran Selezione’ of world-class micro-terroirs. It’ll happen one day. It has to. D of styles, whether 100% Tuscan grapes or Monty Waldin is a wine writer, author and the Tuscan-French blends’ DWWA Regional Chair for Tuscany

Waldin’s top Gran Selezione wines to try

Fontodi, Vigna del Sorbo 2013 94 warm sandy soil. The result is a Rocca di Castagnoli, Stielle 2013 90 £49.99 Hedonism, Liberty, WoodWinters Sangiovese whose lushness and £27.95 Eurowines Giovanni Manetti used to add 10% crunchiness meld slowly in the glass. A crisp 100% Sangiovese selected from to this. He grubbed Organic. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5% the best lots from a large estate in those vines up, leaving his flagship a (relatively cool) Gaiole, whose wines are pure, richly scented 100% Sangiovese I Fabbri 2011 92 becoming brighter and more precise. with moreish, crackling depth. Organic. N/A UK www.ifabbrichianticlassico.it Won Silver at the Decanter World Wine Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 14.5% Susanna Grassi’s wines show lovely Awards 2017. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 13.5% tannic fluidity, allowing finely tuned Isole e Olena 2010 94 cherry-violet Sangiovese fruit – typical Villa Trasqua, Nerento 2011 90 £197.99 Liberty, WoodWinters of the Lamole sub-zone of Greve in N/A UK http://villatrasqua.it Paolo de Marchi’s blend of Chianti from which this comes – to shine. Wine made from 80% Sangiovese and 80% Sangiovese, 12% Organic. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 14% 20% Colorino, Nera. Bright, and 8% rich, smooth dark fruit with an agreeable from a five-star vintage. Very Casaloste, Don Vincenzo lick of oak from barrel-ageing. This rich, very young (still) and 2010 91 estate is on the up. Silver medal at very layered. Open it and have £43.95 Jeroboams, Laytons DWWA 2017. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 14% one glass a night for six nights 95% Sangiovese and 5% in a row to see how its . Giovanni Battista Castello di Albola 2013 89 wave-like depth changes over d’Orsi is known for a rich, £32.99 Zonin UK time. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 14.5% mouthfilling interpretation of The Zonin family is successfully Chianti Classico from a fine-tuning its Sangiovese, creating a Castello di Volpaia, Il Puro 2011 92 hotspot in Panzano. Like dark juicy style with no little depth that is an £60 Millésima UK chocolate with a vanilla and ideal starting point for those new to the From a relatively cool site in Chianti cherry liqueur twist. Organic. concept of Chianti Classico Gran Classico’s high centre, but on quick-to- Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14.5% Selezione. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 13.5%

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