History#Of#Brunello#Di#Montalcino

8/18/14%

Is#Brunello#di#Montalcino#Italy’s#Greatest#Wine?# Jay#Youmans#CWE,#MW%

Is#Brunello#di#Montalcino#Italy’s# Greatest#Wine?# • Where%it%is%located% • History% • Classiﬁca6ons% • Quality%and%style%factors% • Regional%Zones%?% • Climate% • Soil% • Grape%&%Clones% • Styles:%Modern,%Tradi6onal,%and%in%between% • Tas6ng% • Italy’s%Greatest%Red%Wine?%%

1% 8/18/14%

Where#is#Montalcino#located?

2% 8/18/14%

Other% Chian6% Firenze% Districts% Pisa% R.#Arno#

CHIANTI%% CLASSICO%

Tuscany% Siena% San%Guido% Perugia% BRUNELLO# DI#MONTALCINO#

ELBA%

L.#Bolsena#

R.Tiber#

T#Y#R#R#H#E#N#I#A#N## S#E#A#

Rome% Frasca6%

Torrenieri% Cas6glione%del%% %%%%%Bosco% Montalcino#

Poggio%Civitella%

Tavernelle%

Camigliano% Castelnuovo% Dell’Abate%

Sant’%Angelo%in%Colle%

Sant’%Angelo%Scalo%

3% 8/18/14%

GeYng%More%Oriented%

Altesino Pian%delle%Vigne% Castelgiocondo% Valdicava% %

Casanova% Biondi%San6%

Argiano% Barbi%

Banﬁ% Col%d’Orcia%

History%of%Brunello%di%Montalcino:%

[%14th%Century%[%the%ﬁrst%recordings%of%red%Brunello%di%Montalcino%

[%1865%–%the%ﬁrst%vintage%of%Brunello%made%by%Clemente%San6.%%

7#The#Brunello#style#is#developed#by#Ferruccio#Biondi7SanA,#he% viniﬁes%his%Sangiovese%grapes%separately%from%the%other%varie6es,% and%does%extended%skin%contact...%%

Ferruccio#Biondi#SanA%

4% 8/18/14%

History#of#Brunello#di#Montalcino:#

[%Biondi[San6%declared%only%four%vintages%[1888,%1891,%1925%and% 1945.%%

[%The%high%price%and%pres6ge%of%these%wines%soon%encourage%other% producers%to%emulate%Biondi[San6's%success.%%

[%By%the%1960s%there%were%11%producers%making%Brunello%

[%1966%[%Brunello%di%Montalcino%granted%% Denominazione#di#Origine#Controllata#(DOC)## status.##

History#of#Brunello#di#Montalcino:!

7#1970#–#25#producers# 7#1980#7#53#producers.##

7#1980#7#Montalcino#region#was#the#ﬁrst#Italian#wine#region#to# be#awarded#Denominazione#di#Origine#Controllata#e#GaranAta# (DOCG)#designaAon.##

[%Age%of%Investment%% [Banﬁ :%Poggio%alle%Mura% [Frescobaldi:%Castel% Giocondo% [Allianz:% Campogiovanni% [Cinzano :%Argiano% [Angelo% Gaja:%Pieve%Santa%Res6tuta% [Illy :%Mastrojanni% [Piero %An6nori:%Pian%delle%Vigne%

5% 8/18/14%

ITALY’S WINE CLASSIFICATION

DOCG7#Denominazione#di#Origine#Controllata#e# GaranAta#

DOC[%Denominazione%di%origine%controllata

IGT7#Indicazione#geograﬁca#Apica

VDT - Vino da Tavola

History#of#Brunello#di#Montalcino:!

[#Prior#to#1980,#it#was#legal#to#blend#up#10%#wine#from#other# Zones.##

[%No% chapaliza6on%was%allowed,%but%you%could%add% concentrated%musts,%high%in%sugar,%to%increase%your%alcohol%up% to%2%.%%

[%1991%–%The%aging%requirement%in%wood%is%reduced%from%3%½% years%to%3.%

[1996%–%The%laws%formally%state%producers%can%use%oak%of%any% size%or%type.%

[1998%[%The%aging%requirement%in%wood%is%reduced%from%3% years%to%2.%%

6% 8/18/14%

History#of#Brunello#di#Montalcino:!

7#2000#7#200#producers#of#Brunello#di#Montalcino#

[%2008%[%producers%in%the%Consorzio%overwhelmingly%voted%to% keep%Brunello%100%%Sangiovese,%prohibi6ng%the%addi6on% addi6on%of%other%varie6es.%%

[%In%2011%[%they%also%aﬃrmed%that%% Rosso%di%Montalcino%would%con6nue%% to%be%100%percent%Sangiovese.%%

7#2014#–#258#producers#of#Brunello#di#Montalcino%

2008%[%Brunellopoli%or%"Brunellogate":%

Brunellopoli%is%the%name%given%by%Italian%press%for%a% scandal%involving%producers%of%Brunello%di%Montalcino% under%suspicion%of%wine%fraud,%ﬁrst%reported%by%Italian% wine%journalist%Franco%Ziliani%and%American%wine%cri6c% James%Suckling%of%Wine#Spectator.%

7% 8/18/14%

MONTALCINO WINES

 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

 Rosso di Montalcino DOC

 Moscadello di Montalcino DOC

 SantAntimo DOC

 I.G.T. Toscana

Rosso%di%Montalcino%[DOC%

• 100%%Brunello%(Sangiovese)%

• 6%months%aging%in%oak%and%1%year%total%aging%before% release%

• Established%in%1984%as%a%means%of%giving%Brunello% di%Montalcino%producers%a%wine%that%could%be% released%earlier.%%

• Rosso%di%Montalcino%is%typically%lighter,%fresher%and% more%approachable%upon%release%%

8% 8/18/14%

Brunello%di%Montalcino%DOCG%

• 100%%Brunello%%%(Sangiovese)%

• 2%years%aging%in%cask%or%barrel%(oak%or%chestnut)% – "in#bo^e"7large#Slavonian#oak#casks#that#impart#li^le#oak#ﬂavor#and# generally#produce#more#austere#wines.## – French#Barrique##

• 2%years%in%boole%

• 4%years%before%release%(Riserva%5%years)%

• may%not%be%sold%before%January%1%of%the%5th%year%following% the%harvest%

How%long%is%Brunello%aged?% Based!on!2006!vintage#

Category Total Aging Wood Bottle Release Date

Rosso Min. 12 mos Optional Optional January 2008

Brunello Min. 48 mos Min. 24 mos Min. 4 mos. January 2011

Riserva Min. 60 mos Min. 24 mos Min. 6 mos. January 2012

9% 8/18/14%

Quality%&%Style%Factors:%

• Grape%(clone)% • Soil% • Loca6on% • Al6tude% • Vintage% • Yeast%(inoculated%or%Indigenous)% • Harvest%Parameters% • Machine%or%Manual%Harvest% • Oak:%Type,%Size,%and%Length%

10% 8/18/14%

Sangiovese% • Sangiovese:%Blood%of%Jove%% • 11%%of%all%Italian%% plan6ngs% • Found%in%17%of%the%20% Italian%Regions% • Mandated%in%88%DOC/ DOCG% • Top%10%grapes%in%the% world%

Sangiovese%=%Brunello?%

• Brunello%means%brown% • Sangioveto%Grosso?%No,%it%is%not%that%simple!%

11% 8/18/14%

Wine#Grapes%

• Vouillamoz%and%others% found%Sangiovese%to%be%a% Ciliegiolo%(chilia[jollo)%x% Calabrese%Montenuovo% crossing%(Southern%Italy)%

• Is%it%related%to%10%grapes% including:%Catarrato,% Frappato,%Gaglioppo,%and% Nerello%Mascalese.%

Na6ve%Wine%Grapes%of%Italy%

• Ian%D’Agata%asks:%

• Is%Ciliegiolo%one%of%the% parents%of%Sangiovese,% or%is%Sangiovese%a% parent%of%Ciliegiolo?%%

12% 8/18/14%

Characteris6cs%of%Sangiovese%

• Sangiovese%is%light%in%color%

• There#are#5#anthocyannins:%malvin,%petunin,% delphin,%cyanin,%and%peonin% • Grapes%high%in%cyanin,%and%peonin,%such%as% Nebbiolo%and%Sangiovese,%are%easily%oxidixed,%and% are%lighter%in%color.% • Sangiovese%lacks%acylated%anthocyanins[%unlike% Cabernet%Sauvignon%&%Merlot% • So%a%wine%that%contains%more%than%1[2%%%acylated% anthocyanins%is%not%100%%Sangiovese%%

Clones%

• 102%registered%Clones%(600%es6mated)% • Biondi%San6:%BBS[11% • Col%d’Orcia%clones:%SG[CDO[4%and%5,%and%8% • Tenute%Silvio%Nardi%Clones:%SN:%1,%2,%3,%4%and%5.% • 2000%Chian6%Classico%Project% • T[19%(Tebano)%&%R[24%are%Emilia[Romagna% clones% • Banﬁ:%Janus%50,%Janus%10,%and%BF%30%

13% 8/18/14%

Clones%

• In%1982,%Castello%Banfi%started%a%joint%project% with%the%University%of%Milan% • 600%different%Sangiovese%clones%% • Selected%180%and%then,%auer%the%micro% vinifica6on%of%these%clones,%they%selected%15%%

• Backbone%&%Structure% • Aroma6c%% • Fruit%

14% 8/18/14%

• Ruby%Color% • notes%of%violets,%cassis,% black%pepper%and% tobacco.%%

• Dark%Color%with%purple% hues%% • Structure% • Violets,%ripe%fruit,%tart% cherries%with%hints%of% smoke.%%

15% 8/18/14%

• Dark%Color% • Red%fruits,%plums,%cherries% %%%%blackberries%licorice,% tobacco%and%black%olives.%

%%%Tannins%are%thick,%silky,%and% rich%%

Soil%Types%

• Galestro%Soil?%

• Very%diverse%in%terms%of%soil%types%

• Above%300%meter%calcareous%of%the%soil%in%many% parts%of%the%appella6on.%%

• Banﬁ%es6mates%they%have%29%diﬀerent%soil%types% in%their%vineyards%

16% 8/18/14%

schist#and#sandstone,#generally## loose#and#rich#in#shale.# sand#with#clay# Calcium## stony/galestro#soils##

galestro,#graniMc,## volcanic,#clay#and#schist# iron#and#clay.%

17% 8/18/14%

Climate%

• Mediterranean% • Located%22%miles%from%the%sea,%which%lies%to% the%west,%just%above%the%arid,%hot%Maremma.%% • To%the%southeast%lies%the%highest%mountain%in% Tuscany—the%1734%meter%(m)%high%Mount% Amiata.%,%which%oﬀers%protec6on%from%severe% storms%from%the%East%Coast.%% • Rainfall%is%lower%and%temperatures%are%higher% as%one%proceeds%north%to%south%in%Montalcino.%%

275#meters# `# 300#meters# Cooler#&#more#rain#

661#meters#

`# 450#meters#

Warmer#&#less#rain# 400#meters#

150#meters# 250#meters# .%

18% 8/18/14%

Torrenieri% Cas6glione%del%% %%%%%Bosco% Montalcino#

Poggio%Civitella%

Tavernelle%

Camigliano% Castelnuovo% Dell’Abate% Ocean%Inﬂuence%

Sant’%Angelo%in%Colle%

Sant’%Angelo%Scalo% Cool%Wind%from%the%South%East% Mount%Amiata%oﬀers%protec6on%%

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO D.O.C.G. Production regulation

 Production area: The communal territory of Montalcino

 Variety: Sangiovese (Named “Brunello” in Montalcino).

 Maximum yield of grapes: 8 tons per hectare.

 Obligatory ageing in wood: 2 years in oak casks

 Obligatory ageing in bottles: 4 months (6 months for the Riserva)

 Minimum alcohol content: 12,5% vol.

 Minimum total acidity: 5g/lt.

 Minimum net dry extract: 24 g/lt

 Bottling area: bottling must take place within the production area

 Sale on to the market: !January 1st of the 5th year after the grape harvest (January 1st of the 6th year for Reserve wines).

Updated to 31/12/2012

19% 8/18/14%

Caparzo#La#Casa# 275%meters% Silvio#Nardi#Winery% schist%and%sandstone,%loose%and% rich%in%shale.% La#Casa% Montalcino#

Poggio#AnMco# 450%meters% calcareous%and%rocky%soils% Galestro%% Silvio#Nardi#Manachiara# 350%meters% Argiano# Sand%,clay,%calcium%% 250[300%meters% calcareous%and%rocky%soils%% Mastrojanni# Ciacci#Piccolomini# 350%meters% d’Aragona# marl,%shale,%sandstone% 300%meters% and%clay%soils%% Marl,clay%

Col#d’Orcia#Riserva#Poggio#al#Vento## 150[300%meters%[%calcareous%and%rocky%soils%%

2004%Poggio%An6co%Brunello%di% Montalcino%“Altero”%% • Central%Zone%[450%meters% • About%32.5%hectares%are% under%vines%% • Sangiovese%on%calcareous% and%rocky%soils.% • owned%by%the%Gloder% family%of%Milan%

20% 8/18/14%

2004%Poggio%An6co%Brunello%di% Montalcino%“Altero”%%

• 80[hectoliter%stainless%steel% tanks,%truncated[cone% shaped,%at%controlled% temperature,%which%never% exceeds%90%F.%% • Aged%in%500[liter%French%oak% tonneaux%for%a%period%of% two%years%% • Winemaker:%Carlo%Ferrini%% • $115%

21% 8/18/14%

Vineyard%

• Sangiovese%is%Vigorous%=%high%yields% • suscep6ble%to%rot%(thin%skins)% – Prone%to%Oidium%&%Powdery%Mildew% – Black%Measles%an%issue% • Slow%and%late%ripening% • Drought%resistant% • High%density%plan6ng%5000[700%per%hectare% • Likes%Di[urnal%temperature%swings% • 1.5%kilograms%per%plant%is%ideal%

Vineyard%

• Cordone%Speronato%=%Cordon%Spur% – 1)%Machine%Harvest% – 2)%Reduce%yields% • Guyot%was%largely%abandoned%because%because%it% led%to%higher%yields%%

• Rootstock:% • Rootstocks%420A,%775%Paulsen% • SO4%and%Kober%B5%allow%too%much%vigor%

22% 8/18/14%

23% 8/18/14%

2004%Caparzo%Brunello%di%Montalcino% La%Casa%% • Central%[%275%meters% • schist[clay%terrain% (Galestro).%% • 5%hectares%% • Owner:%Elisabeoa%Gnudi% Angelini%

Caparzo%

24% 8/18/14%

Caparzo#La#Casa# 275%meters% Silvio#Nardi#Winery% schist%and%sandstone,%loose%and% rich%in%shale.% La#Casa% Montalcino#

Col#d’Orcia#Riserva#Poggio#al#Vento## 150[300%meters%[%calcareous%and%rocky%soils%%

2004%Caparzo%Brunello%di%Montalcino% La%Casa%% • 12%months%in%French% Oak% • 24%months%in%30HL% French%oak%barrels% • 14%% • $75%

25% 8/18/14%

Winemaking%

• Destem%or%leave%stems% • Faooria%dei%Barbi[%Cryomacera6on% • Temperature%control%of%fermenta6on% • Yeast% • Enzymes% • Oak:%type,%size,%length%of%6me% • French%or%Slavonian% • 220%liter%barrel%or%large%BoY%–%(1000%liters%to% 15,000%liters%%

26% 8/18/14%

27% 8/18/14%

Styles:%%

• Modern# • Hybrid#^ParMal##• TradiMonal# • Destem% • Stems% • Leave%Stems% • French%Barrique% • Both%French%&% • Slovenian%Oak% • Inoculate%with%Yeast% Slovenian% Vat%/%Booe% • Reduc6ve%% • Indigenious%Yeast% • Oxida6ve%%

28% 8/18/14%

Tradi6onal%

• Biondi%San6% • Soldera% • Lisini% • Poggio%di%Sooo% • SalicuY% • Cerbaiona%

2006%Silvio%Nardi%Brunello%di%Montalcino%% Manachiara%%

• Southwest%[%350%Meters% • Within%a%500%acre% vineyard% • high%calcium%% • Tenute%Silvio%Nardi% Clones:%1,%2,%3,%4%and%5%% • Emilia%Nardi%% • 45%Year%old%vines%

29% 8/18/14%

2006%Silvio%Nardi%Brunello%di% Montalcino%Manachiara%%

• Complete%destemming%% • Fermenta6on%is%done%in% steel%% • with%one%year%aging%in% French%Allier%barriques% • Followed%by%a%year%in% large%Slavonian%oak% barrels.%% • 14%% • $90%

BRUNELLO:%MOST%FAQ’S% 1.What#are#planMng#rights?# there%are%a%limited%number%of%hectares/acres%in% the%Brunello%di%Montalcino%DOCG.%%%% 2.How#did#each#producer#come#by#their#buying#rights?# It%was%just%ﬁrst%come,% ﬁrst%serve%on%the%buying%of%the%rights.%Currently,%Brunello%is%a%closed% appella6on.% 3.How#do#producers#decide#where#to#make#Brunello#from?## A%producer%can% make%Brunello%from%any%por6on%of%his/her%estate,%but%they%must%declare/ designate%to%the%Consorzio%where%on%the%estate%(or%which%vines%exactly)%the% Brunello%will%come%from%in%January%of%each%year.%% 4. Is#the#Brunello#appellaMon#separate?##While%the%Montalcino%territory%is% delimited,%there%is%no%small%Brunello%zone%(like%Chian6%Classico).%It%is%up%to% the%producer%to%decide%where,%on%their%land,%to%make%his/her%Brunello.%% 5.When#did#the#appellaMon#expand?## In%1997,%the%producers%pe66oned%to% have%the%appella6on's%sealed%vineyard%registers%re[opened%to%increase% produc6on.%%%

30% 8/18/14%

Brunello%di%Montalcino%by% %Kerin%O’Keefe%

HECTARES OF VINEYARDS

 Total surface covered by the township of Montalcino 59,280 acre

 Surface covered with vineyards 8,645 acre

 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 5187 acre

 Rosso di Montalcino DOC 1260 acre

 Moscadello di Montalcino DOC 123.5 acre

 SantAntimo DOC 1190 acre

 IGT Toscano 94 acre

Updated to 31/12/2012

31% 8/18/14%

“Brunello#di#Montalcino#producers#split# over#sub^zones”#–Decanter#Magazine#2014%

Brunello%di%Montalcino%[% subzones:%% 1)%Montalcino%North% 2)%Montalcino%South% 3)%Castelnuovo%dell'Abate% 4)%Camigliano% 5)%Tavernelle% 6)%Bosco% 7)%Torrenieri% 8)%Sant'Angelo%

Unoﬃcial#Montalcino#Zones#

%%%%%%%%%%%Cas6glione%del%% TorrenieriTorrenieri% % %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%Bosco%

MontalcinoMontalcino% #

Tavernelle% Tavernelle% %%%%%%%Camigliano% Camigliano% Castelnuovo%% Dell’Abate%

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%Sant’AngeloSant’%Angelo%in%%in%ColleColle% %

Sant’%Angelo%Scalo%

32% 8/18/14%

2007%Argiano%Brunello%di%Montalcino%%

• Southwest%[%300%meters% • Noemi%Cinzano%% • Giacomo%Tachis,%%

33% 8/18/14%

2007%Argiano%Brunello%di%Montalcino%%

• First%year%is%spent%in% French%oak%barriques% and%tonneaux%% • Second%is%spent%in%larger% Slavonian%oak%barrels%% • $55%

2004%Col%d'Orcia%Brunello%di% Montalcino%Riserva%[%Poggio%al%Vento%% label_poggio_al_vento_HIRE.jpg (JPEG Image, 624 × 768 pixel... http://www.coldorcia.com/download/Download/Doc_Vini_pdf/... • Southwest%250[300%meters% • “Windy%Ridge”% • Owned%by%Count%Francesco% Marone%Cinzano%% • Organic% • Clones:%% – SG[CDO[8% – SG[CDO[4% – SG[CDO[5%

1 of 1 8/2/14 11:18 AM

34% 8/18/14%

2004%Col%d'Orcia%Brunello%di% Montalcino%Riserva%[%Poggio%al%Vento%% label_poggio_al_vento_HIRE.jpg (JPEG Image, 624 × 768 pixel... http://www.coldorcia.com/download/Download/Doc_Vini_pdf/... • Fermenta6on%86F.%% • 25%days%of%macera6on%in% wide%and%short%stainless% steel%tanks%(greater% contact%between%skins% and%must%with%a%beoer% polyphe[%nolic%extrac6on)% • Daily%punching%down%in% the%morning%and%pumping% over%in%the%evening.%% • 4%years%in%Slavonian%and% French%oak%casks%% • 14.5%%vol%%

1 of 1 8/2/14 11:18 AM • $100%

CASES PRODUCED PER YEAR (average)

 Brunello di Montalcino 750,000 cases

Updated to31/12/2012

35% 8/18/14%

MARKETS FOR BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

 Italy 35%  Export 65%

MAIN MARKETS

 USA 25%  Germany 7.5%  Switzerland 5.5%  Canada 5%  United Kingdom 2.5%  Japan 2%  Other (60 countries) 17.5%

2007%Mastrojanni%Brunello%di% Montalcino%Vigna%Loreto%% • Southeast%–%350[400% meters% • Loreto%Vineyard%is% located%in%the%zone%of% Castelnuovo%dell’Abate% • Owned%by%Illy%

36% 8/18/14%

Caparzo#La#Casa# 275%meters% Silvio#Nardi#Winery% schist%and%sandstone,%loose%and% rich%in%shale.% La#Casa% Montalcino#

Col#d’Orcia#Riserva#Poggio#al#Vento## 150[300%meters%[%calcareous%and%rocky%soils%%

2007%Mastrojanni%Brunello%di% Montalcino%Vigna%Loreto%% • 36%months%in%Allier%oak% barrels%of%16[33[54%hl% • 14.5%% • $65%[$80%

37% 8/18/14%

Vintage#RaMngs#/## WA#######WS# Wine#Advocate#/Wine# Spectator# 2011% NT% 2010% NT% 2009% NT%%%%%%%%%%%89% 2008% 91%%%%%%%%%%%91% 2007# 97###########93# 2006# 97###########95# 2005% 91%%%%%%%%%%%89% 2004# 95###########97# 2003% 89% 2002% 77% 2001% 95% 2000% 89%

2004%Ciacci%Piccolomini%d’Aragona%Brunello% di%Montalcino%Riserva%Pianrosso%% • 240%to%360%meters%% • Pianrosso%vineyard% 29.22%acres%% • oil%is%medium%grain%with% good%levels%of% marl,da6ng%from%the% Eocene%period%% • organic%prac6ces%%

38% 8/18/14%

2004%Ciacci%Piccolomini%d’Aragona%Brunello% di%Montalcino%Riserva%Pianrosso%% • 36%months%in%20[62%hl% Slavonian%oak%barrels%% • Brother[and[sister%team% Paolo%and%Lucia% Bianchini%% • adopted%the%Cer6%Logo% system,%which%ensures% the%wine’s%authencity% • 14.5%%% • $100%

Greatest?%

• adj.%greatger,%greatgest%% • 1.#Very#large#in%size.% • 2.#Larger%in%size%than#others#of%the%same%kind.% • 3.#Large%in%quan6ty%or%number:%A%great%throng%awaited%us.%% • 4.#Extensive%in%6me%or%distance:%a%great%delay.% • 5.#Remarkable#or#outstanding#in#magnitude,%degree,%or%extent:%a% great%crisis.% • 6.#Of#outstanding#signiﬁcance#or#importance:%a%great%work%of%art.% • 7.#Chief%or%principal:%the%great%house%on%the%estate.% • 8.#Superior#in#quality#or%character;%noble:%"For%he%was%great,%ere% fortune%made%him%so"%(John%Dryden).% • 9.#Powerful;%inﬂuenMal:%one%of%the%great%na6ons%of%the%West.% • 10.#Eminent;#disMnguished:%a%great%leader.%

39% 8/18/14%

%Taurasi%

Chian6%Classico%Riserva% Gran#Selezione%%

40% 8/18/14%

%Barberesco%

%Amarone%della%Valpolicella%%

41% 8/18/14%

Super%Tuscans%

%Barolo%

42% 8/18/14%

%Brunello%

Comparison%of%Barolo%&%Brunello%

43% 8/18/14%

Italian%Grapes%

Thank#You!#

44%