Great Smoky Mountains A. .. .

NATIONAL PARK

North Carolina "and Tennessee ABOUT THIS BOOKLET

Great Smoky Mountains Take time to read through this booklet early in your visit. It will answer many of your questions and help you to know the park better. The brief topics will introduce the plant and NATIONAL PARK animal life, describe the climate and seasons, provide a geo­ logical sketch, and give you a quick glance at man's beginnings here. You will want to become familiar with the map on page 14. Try to memorize the symbols in the lower right corner, for they will help you to locate visitor centers, campgrounds, trails, and other places of interest. CONTENTS The distance tables for roads and trails on pages 10-13 will Page help you to plan and time your hikes or motor trips to favorite About This Booklet 3 areas in the park. Welcome 3 A Highland Wilderness 3 Get Acquainted First 3 A HIGHLAND WILDERNESS How To Enjoy the Park 5 Road Distances, Table 10 The Great Smoky Mountains, which lie along the common The Seasons 10 border of Tennessee and North Carolina, form a majestic Trail Distances, Table 12 climax to the Appalachian Highlands. With outlines softened Map 14 by a forest mantle, the mountains stretch away to remote hori­ Plants 18 A smokelike mist rises zons in sweeping troughs and mighty billows that recede to from the dense Animals 21 evenness in the distance. And shrouding the mountains is a plant growth. How the Mountains Were Formed 24 smokelike mist that rises from the dense plant growth. The Man in the Smokies 26 mountains get their name from this deep-blue haze. Other Publications 28 Arnold Guyot, the naturalist and geographer, in describing How To Reach the Park 28 these mountains after exploring the Appalachians more than want to drive to the visitor center in the headquarters area, views to a magnificent panorama from Heintooga Overlook. Where To Stay 28 a century ago, said: "By their number, their magnitude, the where exhibits offer a sample of what to expect later on when Then, drive east to Soco Gap, turn right on U.S. 19, and Help Us Protect the Park 30 continuity and general elevation of the chains, and of the base you really explore the mountains. And you will surely want return to the park by way of the Cherokee Indian Village. Administration 32 upon which they repose, they are like a massive and high to take the delightful drive to Cades Cove. There you will Back in Cherokee, you may end the day with a visit to the America's Natural Resources 32 citadel which is really the culminating region of all the follow an 11-mile loop road past open fields, homesteads, and Cherokee Indian Village, where native Cherokee people demon­ Appalachian System." little frame churches where pioneer people lived and worshiped strate their handicrafts and relate the story of their past in the almost unnoticed for a century. From May through October, The park's boundary wraps around 800 square miles of Great Smoky Mountains. This is an excellent prelude to your you will see the miller grinding corn at Cable Mill. If you mountain wilderness; much of it is virtually unspoiled. Many evening at the outdoor theater and Kermit Hunter's drama of wish, you may take home a bag of the fresh water-ground meal peaks rise above 6,000 feet, but this is not high enough to the Cherokee, Unto These Hills. from Becky Cable's store. We strongly urge you to avoid the transmountain road on Deep within almost every American is an urge to explore escape the enveloping forests. A great variety of trees, shrubs, weekends during the summer season. Heavy traffic at these the great out-of-doors. To gratify this urge, millions of people herbs, and other plants are fed by the fertile land and nourished You may also have time to drive the scenic mountain roads times has proved that leisurely weekday crossings are much come to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park each year. by the heavy rainfalls and rushing streams. to Newfound Gap and to Clingmans Dome, where a half-mile more enjoyable. They hike along its winding mountain trails, pitch their camps walk will take you to an observation tower. If so, be sure to in its forests, and view some of the most luxuriant plantlife view the Chimney Tops from the parking overlooks between HOW TO ENJOY THE PARK in eastern North America. GET ACQUAINTED FIRST Chimneys Campgrounds and the loop tunnel. After return­ The National Park Service welcomes you to the Great ing from Newfound Gap, you may wish to visit Gatlinburg's festive main street after dark. The Trails Smokies. Here, as in all National Parks, the superintendent We suggest that after you have registered and are settled If you are staying on the North Carolina side of the park, The most rewarding experiences in the Great Smoky Moun­ and his staff want you to experience the satisfaction and in camp, or in a hotel or motel, you first take a motor trip to you should drive to Oconaluftee Visitor Center to see the 19th- tains are found along the trails. Therefore, we urge you to inspiration that may be gained from exploring these splendid some of the points of interest closest to your accommodations. century pioneer farmstead and enjoy the interesting story of deny yourself the comforts of your automobile and trade the forests and ancient mountains. Your special care in observing (Places to stay within and near the park are discussed on the mountain people as depicted in the museum. paved highway for a woodland trail, where rhododendron and a few simple rules will help us to protect the park for you and page 28.) mountain-laurel garland the way. for future generations. If you are staying on the Tennessee side of the park, you will From a point 1 mile south of Oconaluftee Visitor Center, you might travel the Blue Ridge Parkway north past many fine More than 650 miles of horse and foot trails wind along 2 3 4 5 The self-guided nature trails are designated by symbols on If you camp along the trail, except at designated campgrounds the map. They are also listed and described on the back of the or camping areas (see map, pages 14-17), you must obtain a Natural is/ Program. fire permit. If you hike at any time from November through March, for your own safety a park ranger must check your Appalachian Challenge gear and clothing before setting out. The famed Appalachian Trail, which stretches from Maine to Georgia, enters the park at Davenport Gap near the eastern Fish and Fishing boundary. Straddling the boundary line of two States, it zig­ The variety in the native fish life of park waters ranges from zags a course for 71 miles along the crest of some of the high­ the small colorful darters to the gamy brook trout. More est peaks in the Smokies and leaves the park again at its south­ than 70 forms of fishes are found here. west terminus, Fontana Dam. Many visitors enjoy hiking short Approximately 600 miles of streams add to the beauty of the distances from Davenport Gap or Fontana Dam. Other trail park, and many of the streams offer opportunities for recrea­ points accessible by car are Newfound Gap and Clingmans tional angling for rainbow and brook trout. The native brook Dome. trout inhabits only the cooler waters at higher elevations. In But if you wish to accept the challenge to hike the full dis­ certain streams that are managed on a "Fishing for Fun" plan, tance, you can cover the 71 miles in 6 to 8 days. Trailside park visitors may fish the year around but are required to shelters and campsites, which are marked by symbols on the release all trout they catch which measure less than 16 inches. map, are spaced about a day's journey apart. Each shelter, The regular season extends from May 16 through August 31. closed on 3 sides, provides bunks for at least 6 persons. State licenses, but not trout stamps, are required and may be There's a fireplace in front and water is available nearby. secured for periods of 1 to 10 days at reduced rates. Angling Since fuel is scarce, you are advised to carry primus-type regulations are posted on streams and may be obtained at park stoves. Each shelter is normally restricted to 1 night's use. ranger stations.

Mountaintop islands in a sea of clouds. (Courtesy, Paid A. Moore, Tennessee Conservation Department.)

crystal-clear streams and waterfalls, past forest giants that were some of the park trails. You are invited to join a group, under living before the white man came to this area, through the the guidance of a park naturalist, and come along. Groups wild beauty of spring flowers or autumn colors, and into high depart from several points throughout the park at regularly mountain meadows. In many places trails lead unexpectedly scheduled intervals. from the dimly lighted undergrowth to bright vistas that open Choose the walk that best suits your interests and your on mile after mile of rolling mountain slopes. The sudden­ schedule by consulting a copy of the Naturalist Program. This ness of the views and the slowness of their coming into focus is an informative folder of naturalist activities covering the seem to add to their splendor. A seasoned hiker has said, summer season. You can get a copy at the Oconaluftee and "If nature is loved by what is best in us, then it is here where Sugarlands Visitor Centers and at all ranger stations. Copies mankind has the opportunity for a mental and spiritual revival are also posted in hotels and other gathering places around the in boundless measure." park. For your experience on the trail, pick a destination from the distance table, and hike into the hushed wilderness of the Self-Guided Nature Trails Great Smokies. For years to come, it will probably provide you with the fondest memory of your visit to the park. These are short trails designed especially for the "do-it-your­ self" naturalist. At the start of the trail a booklet is provided Hikers at Charlie's Bunion, on the which contains explanatory nature notes keyed to markers along Appalachian Trail. Guided Nature Walks the way. The markers point out a variety of trees and call (Courtesy, Paul A. Moore, For the visitor who is keen to learn about nature as well as to attention to the relationships of the plants to their woodland Tennessee Conser­ commune with it, the park offers guided nature walks along habitats. vation Department.)

6 7 ROAD DISTANCES TRAIL DISTANCES

From- Distance Destination Trail starts Elevation Remarks Map Map round trip index To- Elevation Remarks Gatlinburg Cherokee Townsend index entrance entrance entrance Feet Miles Laurel Falls Fighting Creek Gap (see Road 2,500 2.5 One of the most popular hiking trips F-3. Miles Miles Miles Feel Distances). Park Headquarters 1.5 28.3 18.5 1,463 Office of superintendent F-3. Clingmans Dome Summit. . . Forney Ridge Parking Area. 6,643 1.0 One-half mile paved trail leads to one of the G-5. Oconaluftee Visitor Center and 27.9 1.9 45.9 2,025 Museum;-park office, North Carolina section. . . 1-5. highest peaks in the East; highest in park. Ranger Station. Andrews Bald Forney Ridge Parking Area. 5,860 4.0 One of the most popular hikes in park G-5. Chimneys Campground 6.5 23.6 23.5 2,750 In Tennessee section on U.S. 441 G-3. Alum Cave Bluffs Alum Cave Parking Area (see 4,900 5.0 Good trail, fine views. Best for rose-purple rho­ G-3. Smokemont Campground 24.6 5.2 41.5 2,198 In North Carolina section on U.S. 441 1-5. Road Distances). dodendron in mid-June. Alum Cave Bluffs. Balsam Mountain Campground. 53.3 23.5 71.3 5,340 In North Carolina section; 11.3 miles north of J-4. Mount Le Conte: via Alum Alum Cave Parking Area (see 6,593 10.4 Shortest way to Mount Le Conte and very spec­ G-3. U.S. 19. Cave Bluffs, Road Distances). tacular. Foot trail only. Cades Cove Campground 26.0 63.0 7.7 1,960 In Tennessee section; 7 miles south of Tennessee D-4. via Boulevard Newfound Gap (see Road Dis­ 6,593 16.0 Follows Appalachian Trail to Mount Kephart G-3. Route 73. tances ). and thence along Boulevard Trail to Le Conte. via Cherokee Orchard.... Deep Creek Campground 45.8 16.0 63.8 1,800 In North Carolina section; 2.1 miles north of G-6. Cherokee Orchard via Rain­ 6,593 13.4 Trail passes Rainbow Falls and around Rocky G-3. U.S. 19. bow Falls. Spur. Elkmont Campground 8.0 34.0 14.0 2,150 In Tennessee section; 1.5 miles south of Tennes­ F-3. Cherokee Orchard via Bull­ 6,593 14.4 Trail passes around Bullhead G-3. see Route 73. head. Heintooga Ridge Picnic Area. . . 53.8 24.0 71.8 5,325 Excellent mountain vistas J-4. Cherokee Orchard via Tril­ 6,593 16.8 Good horse trail G-3. 21.1 25.7 3,550 At parking area above lower tunnel lium Gap. Chimneys Footbridge 8.7 G-3. via Roaring Fork Alum Cave Parking Area 10.5 19.3 27.5 3,850 Trail to Alum Cave Bluffs and Mount Le Conte. G-3. Gatlinburg and Trillium Gap. 6,593 22.4 Longest trip to Mount Le Conte, but interesting. . G-3. 35.5 24.7 2,550 Trails to Mount Le Conte and Rainbow Falls. . . The Jumpoff Newfound Gap 6,100 6.5 Jagged mountain peaks H-3. Cherokee Orchard 4.7 G-3. Charlie's Bunion Newfound Gap 15.0 14.8 42.0 5,048 Where U.S. 441 crosses Smokies, Appalachian H-4. Newfound Gap 5,375 8.6 Reminiscent of the rugged Rockies H-3. Trail, and Clingmans Dome Highway. Gregory Bald Cades Cove 4,948 11.0 Best display of wild azaleas in mid-June B-5. Chimney Tops Indian Gap 16.1 5,266 Historic pass through Smokies G-4. Chimneys Bridge (see Road 4,755 3.0 For the experienced hiker. 3 hours, round trip. G-3. 16.3 43.3 Distances). Forney Ridge Parking Area 22.5 22.3 49.5 6,311 Clingmans Dome Trail G-5. Mount Cammerer Davenport Gap 5,025 12.0 Fine view of valleys and mountains K-l. Ramsay Cascades Greenbrier Fighting Creek Gap 4.6 31.4 15.4 2,320 Trail to Laurel Falls and Cove Mountain F-3. 4,750 12.0 Largest cascades; stands of virgin hardwoods 1-2. Three Forks Wilderness Smokemont 16.0 Largest stand of virgin red spruce and balsam. . . Cherokee Indian Reservation. . . 31.3 1.5 48.5 1,900 Eastern band of Cherokee Indians J-5. 4,202 J-4. Mount Sterling Tower Mount Sterling Gap 5,835 5.2 Accessible fire tower Little River Gorge 5.8 32.5 1.0 2,000 Scenic drive E-3. K-2. to 1,100 Sharp Top on Noland Divide. Bryson City (at park line) . . . 3,430 4.0 Interesting hike G-6. Bryson Place Bryson City Cades Cove 26.0 63.0 7.7 1,807 Extensive level area surrounded by mountains. . C-4. 2,411 20.0 Follows Deep Creek to Bryson Place, and Nettle H-5. Tremont "Y" 18.2 45.0 .7 1,147 Junction of Cades Cove and Little River Roads. D-3. Creek into a fine stand of virgin hardwoods. Greenbrier 11.0 43.0 31.0 1,680 Trails into area of excellent forests and streams. H-2. Cosby 23.1 52.0 43.1 2,459 Northeastern section of park, Tennessee side. . . J-l. Cataloochee 50.4 60.5 70.4 2,643 Excellent scenic drive, eastern section of park. . K-3. Loop trip around western end of 165.0 165.0 165.0 One-day drive, Gatlinburg to park headquarters, park. Elkmont, Townsend, Maryville, Tapoca, Bryson City, Cherokee, and Gatlinburg.

THE SEASONS fore, hikers and campers should bring warm clothing and be Autumn characteristic are some of these colors that the trees can be The clean frosty white of an occasional winter snow accents prepared for a variety of weather conditions during March, Autumn's pageantry of variegated leaf colors usually reaches identified at a considerable distance by the trained observer. the deep-colored evergreens in the Great Smoky Mountains. April, and May. its peak of breathtaking beauty during the latter half of October. Autumn days, cool and invigorating, are ideal for hiking. Reluctantly, winter gives way to spring, and delicate greens To many visitors this is, by far, the finest time of the year. And those end-of-the-season camping trips and picnics, which herald the cautious awakening of wildflowers. Once firmly Clear days and cool nights favor the spectacle created by the sud­ are often the most pleasant of all—get them in before winter established, the plant world welcomes the booming thunder- Summer den change in the leaves of hardwood trees from summer green comes. showers of summer and sets the stage for autumn's thrilling Days are warm and nights are usually cool during June, July, to an almost endless variety of yellows, reds, browns, and color spectacular. and August in the Great Smokies. Here in the mountain al­ purples. Winter titudes the temperatures range from 15° to 20° below those in Contrary to popular belief, the advent of frosty nights has the valley areas. This is the season when thousands of visitors little to do with this color change. Rather, it is the shortening Winter is the most unpredictable of the four seasons, and Spring come to the park to escape the city's heat, to wander lazily days that set off the chemical reaction in the leaves which yet you shouldn't discount it as a time to visit the Smokies. Spring is on its way when violets, phacelia, and trillium peep along the trails, and to relax beside cool mountain streams. brings on this annual magnificence. Actually, the leaves are Hibernating animals sleep through the occasional light snows from the sun-splotched valley floor, when the broadleaf trees August usually brings the heaviest rainfall and thundershowers dying by degrees; if severe frosts should arrive at an early and the freezing temperatures; a quiet peace pervades the begin to show their leaves, and the serviceberry of the lowland sometimes come without warning. But don't let a summer date, death comes suddenly, resulting in less vivid coloration. crisp, clear atmosphere. At times, the fog, moving over the appears to "migrate" up the mountain slopes. You may find shower cancel your scheduled hike; walking in the rain can be Sourwood, blackgum, red maple, sumac, and flowering dog­ mountaintops, freezes and clings to the stately evergreens, some of these little trees still in bloom 8 to 10 weeks later fun too. If you remember to tuck a lightweight raincoat into wood contribute much to the red hues of autumn. Most strik­ blanketing them in frosty clusters. The sprinkling of winter along the crest of the range. Yet, the full progression of wild- your pocket, you will enjoy hiking back after the rain has ing of the yellows and golds are hickory, birch, sassafras, yel­ visitors seem to appreciate their solitude, and the deciduous flowers does not start at the same time every year. Spring freshened the scent of the hemlocks and pines and dropped a low-poplar, and magnolia. White ash, sweetgum, persimmon, trees accommodate by dropping their leafy veils to open winter weather can begin as early as January or as late as March. There­ new sparkle on the deep-green foliage. and Hercules-club become adorned in purplish shades. So vistas to the privileged few.

10 11 12 13

basswood, yellow-poplar, silverbell, eastern hemlock, white ash, sugar maple, yellow birch, American beech, black cherry, northern red oak, and the cucumbertree. Among those that grow to record size are the cucumbertree, Fraser magnolia, yel­ low buckeye, silverbell, and eastern hemlock. At times the forest is broken by scatterings of mountain- laurel, blueberry, smilax, and a sprinkling of sandmyrtle, all woven into a giant carpet by dense tangles of rhododendron. And when the predominant rhododendron blooms in June, these carpeted areas (called laurel slicks by the mountain folks) are beautiful beyond description. This is the season when people in the neighboring communities most appreciate the gifts of nature and celebrate at rhododendron and laurel festivals. Viewed from a distant opening along one of the trails, heath balds, or "slicks," appear to be smooth, but actually they are almost impenetrable tangles of vegetation. In contrast are the grass balds, or high meadowlands, where you may wander with ease among grasses, sedges, and other herbs. For a rewarding experience, hike to Gregory's Bald in late June, when spec­ tacular concentrations of wild azaleas bloom along the edges of this hillside meadow and frame it in many shades of red, yellow, buff, shellpink, salmon, and orange. Higher up, between 5,000 and 6,000 feet, our New England visitors will recognize such trees as the red spruce, yellow birch, Grant him his dignity. Nature equipped him to thrive on the food of the forest, and he can if his eating habits are not changed. mountain ash, moosewood, red maple, Canada hemlock, and (Courtesy, Thompson's Photography.) Rhododendrons bloom in June. (Courtesy, Tennessee Conservation fire cherry. Department.) Also at home in far-away New England, as well as in the tergreen. The native shrubs include catawba and Carolina beauty, American woodsorrel, pallid violet, yellow beadlily, and high Smokies, are many of the herbaceous plants—clintonia PLANTS rhododendrons, southern bush-honeysuckle, Alleghany men- painted trillium. The herbs you'll see blooming in summer (the bluebead lily of the north, which southern highlanders ziesia, dingleberry, and Blueridge blueberry. include acuminate aster, white wood aster, cluster goldenrod, No other area in Eastern United States can boast so large a call amber bell), Indian-pipe, ladyslipper, Canada mayflower, As a final touch to this great Appalachian centerpiece, the pink turtlehead, Indian-pipe, and Rugel's groundsel. High- variety of plants. Botanists have listed more than 1,300 kinds white baneberry, and twisted-stalk. Likewise, many of the Master Florist has sprinkled the higher parts lightly with herbs altitude ferns include the toothed woodfern, hayscentedfern, of flowering plants, about 2,000 species of fungi, nearly 350 shrubs are common to both areas—the hobblebush, witch-hazel, and ferns. Among the most noticeable spring-blooming herbs ladyfern, and common polypody ferns. mosses and liverworts, and 230 lichens. At higher elevations scarlet elder, witherod, chokeberry, trailing-arbutus, and win- in the higher elevations are the creeping bluet, Virginia spring- in the Great Smokies you'll find the most extensive stand of virgin red spruce in Eastern United States. The combined ANIMALS acreage of unspoiled hardwoods may be without equal. On the transmountain road in summer, traffic is sometimes The 30-minute trip from the lowlands to the higher moun­ When To Expect Full Flowering About the Bears halted by park visitors who stop their cars to watch a big black tain peaks is much like a journey from Tennessee to Canada. bear, or perhaps a mother with cubs. The better informed PLANTS PEAK OF FLOWERING It is reckless and dangerous to approach the hears When you drive from Gatlinburg, Tenn., or Cherokee, N.C., visitor watches from a distance and, for his own safety, observes Dogwood Middle to late April closely, even though they appear tame, for they may to Newfound Gap, you'll experience an interesting transition turn impulsively and inflict serious injury. Do not the rule not to feed bruin. Feeding the bears is not only Spring powers Late March to mid-May both in climate and in variety of plants. As you gain altitude, feed, tease, frighten, or molest them in any way, par­ dangerous, it's illegal. Aside from the primary concern for Mountain-laurel May and ]une temperatures begin to drop, rainfall increases, winds become ticularly if they are accompanied by young; such acts your safety, the Park Service would like to have bruin forage stronger, and the growing season gets shorter. Flame azalea May and June are violations of park regulations. On foot, give all for himself. He knows how. He has done it for years— The greatest number of plant species occurs at lower and Rose-purple rhododendron....Mid-June bears a wide berth; if one approaches your car, stay in even before man came along. middle altitudes—almost as many kinds of native trees as in White rhododendron ]une and July it, with windows closed. Except for the black bear and the white-tailed deer of Cades all of Europe. The cove hardwoods include yellow buckeye, Cove, you are not likely to see many animals larger than a

18 19 20 21 woodchuck in the daytime. Most other large animals are noc­ Other mammals include the bat (the only mammals capable Below the spruce-fir forest, the scarlet tanager and the rose- turnal. At night your headlights may reveal a gray or red of true flight), mole, shrew, long-tailed weasel, mink, and the breasted grosbeak occur. Higher in the Canadian type forests, fox, an opossum, or a raccoon, and on rare occasions a bobcat notorious skunk, of which there are two species. the veery, black-capped chickadee, the saw-whet owl, and the may appear on or near the road. olive-sided flycatcher make their home. Nearly half of the 50-odd mammals native to these moun­ Birds The dark-gray, sparrow-size birds that you see hopping tains belong to the rodent family. Of that group, the largest about in the parking areas at Newfound Gap and Clingman's About 200 kinds of birds have been observed within the member is the woodchuck, sometimes called groundhog or Dome are the Carolina juncos. You'll see more of them than borders of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. From whistlepig by the mountain people. any of the Canadian-zone birds. In October when the high- lowland to highland, the park's birdlife represents, in a way, The muskrat makes his home almost exclusively in places mountain weather gets too nippy for them, they simply flit a cross section of what one might expect to see in traveling along the park boundary, where the slower-moving streams are down the mountainside and wait out the winter. Then in the from North Carolina to northern New England. The enthu­ more to his liking. In the higher altitudes, you will probably spring when the weather begins to warm, back up the slopes siastic bird watcher will find such permanent residents as the hear, rather than see, the "boomer," or red squirrel; his voice they go, again to haunt their favored peaks. cardinal, Carolina wren, song sparrow, tufted titmouse, eastern is out of proportion to his size. At lower and middle altitudes, The chestnut-sided warbler prefers the more open places; phoebe, Carolina chickadee, and various woodpeckers in the the opossum is often seen at the garbage cans, busily carrying the Canada warbler and black-throated blue warbler usually valleys and coves at about 1,000 to 2,000 feet elevation. out his self-assigned duties as inspector. The nocturnal habits inhabit the rhododendron thickets; and the Blackburnian Others that come during the breeding season and make them­ of the flying squirrel will almost certainly prevent you from warbler chooses the treetops. High above all this untamed selves at home include the red-eyed vireo, yellow-throated seeing either of the two species that live in the park. Actually, wilderness soars the raven, executing its graceful aerobatics vireo, wood thrush, indigo bunting, Acadian flycatcher, brown they are not capable of true flight and should be named "glid­ with a skillful ease that man has never experienced. thrasher, and numerous warblers. ing squirrels." Bring along your bird book and your fieldglasses. Getting to know the winged ones can be a pleasure indeed. In contemplating these ancient mountains, you may be reminded that the events of man are as ephemeral as the passing cloud shadows. (Courtesy, Thompson's Photography.) HOW THE MOUNTAINS WERE FORMED So impressive is the unbroken forest cover of the Great Smoky Mountains that you are not immediately concerned with the rocks that make up this land of ridges and valleys; you may overlook the story of how it came to be. This beautiful landscape has evolved as a product of earth forces and erosion through countless ages. Under the blanket of trees and dense The Tittle Pigeon River. (Courtesy, Paul A. Moore, Tennessee growth is a great mass of rock, called the Ocoee series, that Conservation Department.) makes up the body of ridges we see today. These rocks were derived from a very ancient land mass and finitely slow and intermittent, taking place over millions of deposited as sediments of mud, sand, and fine gravel, probably years. on the floor of a shallow sea. The Ocoee series was laid down One of the most striking examples of these earth move­ more than 500 million years ago—long before life was abun­ ments is exemplified in Cades Cove, where erosion has exposed dant on earth. During the millions of years that followed, the younger rocks over which the older ones were thrust. other rocks were introduced through the deposition of more Cades Cove lies in limestones which contain fossils of primitive sediments and the intrusion of molten materials. sea animals. In contrast, the older Ocoee formations which Then came the time of mountain building. Some 200 mil­ form the surrounding heights contain no fossils, an indication lion years ago, a powerful disturbance known as the Appalach­ of their antiquity. This reversal—older rocks on top and ian revolution began to alter the earth's crust. This great younger ones underneath—occurs at a number of places in earth disturbance compressed and upheaved the older rocks the Great Smokies area. and changed the low country into lofty mountain ranges. After the Appalachian revolution the crust of the earth be­ Evidences of earth movements that were involved at Mount came stable again. The forces that built the lofty ranges Le Conte show us that successive layers were tilted and sloped gradually subsided, and a new era of mountain carving began. toward the south. At Newfound Gap the layers were turned Millions of years of weathering and erosion have cut away at on end, and at other places they were wrinkled into innumer­ the mountain mass, gradually wearing it down and shaping the able folds and contortions. This might give you the impres­ mountains into the ridge-and-valley topography that you see sion that the action occurred in a single abrupt catastrophe in today. which living things might have run for cover. On the con­ In comparatively recent times, about the last million years, trary, the processes of folding and overthrusting were in- the Great Smokies endured the latest chapter of their geologic

24 25 history—the ice age. In that time a broad icecap buried the a variety of handmade items used by the early settlers. OTHER PUBLICATIONS coat. Better make a list of camping needs for cooking, sleep­ northern part of the continent just as icecaps now bury Green­ The visitor center is open all year, except December 25. Bowman, Elizabeth S. Land of High Horizons. Southern ing, and general outdoor living if you plan to skip the comforts land and Antarctica. Although the front of this continental Publishers, Inc., Kingsport, Tenn. 1948. of a hotel. ice sheet never quite reached the Great Smoky Mountains, the Butcher, Devereux. Exploring Our National Parks and Monu­ A National Park ridges above 4,000 or 5,000 feet must have been aTand of ments. Oxford Univ. Press, New York. 1947. Accommodations Outside the Park snowfields and naked rocks, bare of forests. The many The movement to establish a National Park here began in Campbell, John C. The Southern Highlander and His Home­ Most of the neighboring cities and towns have hotels and boulder fields found in the area probably resulted from the 1923. As a result of study and planning by those who saw land. Russell Sage Foundation, New York. 1921. tourist courts with modern facilities. For information, ad­ intense freezing-thawing action during this ice age. the far-reaching benefits, Congress authorized the park in 1926. Eaton, Allen H. Handicrafts of the Southern Highlands. dress inquiries to the chambers of commerce of nearby towns In 1927, the State Legislatures of North Carolina and Ten­ Russell Sage Foundation, New York. 1937. As the ice sheet melted and receded northward, the forests in North Carolina or Tennessee—Asheville, Waynesville, nessee passed enabling acts. Through the Laura Spelman Fink, Paul M. Great Smokies History Told in Place Names. grew higher on the mountains and eventually covered the sum­ Bryson City, and Sylva, N.C; Gatlinburg, Townsend, Knox­ Rockefeller Memorial, John D. Rockefeller, Jr., matched State East Tennessee Historical Society Pub. no. 3, pp. 3-11, mits. Many of the plant species migrated upward onto the ville, and Maryville, Tenn. You may also write the Knox­ funds, and land acquisition began. Later, Federal funds were Knoxville, Tenn. 1934. higher slopes of the mountains instead of following the ice ville Tourist Bureau, Henley Street, Knoxville, Tenn.; Chero­ made available to complete the project. Kephart, Horace. Our Southern Highlands. MacMillan Co., sheet northward. Today the blanket of forests and lush kee Association, Cherokee, N.C; or the East Tennessee These combined gifts—from the people of North Carolina New York. 469 pp. 1954. greenery clothes the mountain slopes and conceals from the Automobile Club, Knoxville, Tenn. and Tennessee, from private and public funds—enabled the King, Philip B., and Stupka, Arthur. The Great Smoky Moun­ visitor much of the geologic evidence. But the processes con­ Fontana Village, near the southwestern edge of the park, Governors of the two States, on February 6, 1930, to present tains—Their Geology and Natural History. The Scien­ tinue, and the geologic story is a never-ending one. has a 56-room modern lodge and 300 furnished cottages, most 158,876 acres of land to the Secretary of the Interior. On Sep­ tific Monthly, v. LXXI, no. 1, pp. 31-43. 1950. of them with housekeeping facilities. Located near Fontana tember 2, 1940, the park was formally dedicated to the mission Stephens, George M. The Smokies Guide. The Stephens Dam and the manmade Fontana Lake, this unique village offers of preserving and protecting its wild beauty and natural charm Press, Inc., Asheville, N.C. a schedule of inexpensive recreation that includes boating, MAN IN THE SMOKIES for all time. Thornborough, Laura. The Great Smoky Mountains. Univ. hiking, swimming, horseback riding, and nature walks. For of Tenn. Press, Knoxville, Tenn. 180 pp. 1956. Congress set aside this mountain region primarily to pre­ Jackson Ownby shows how to split, or rive, shingles the oldtime information write to Government Services, Inc., Fontana Whittaker, R. H. Vegetation of the Great Smoky Mountains. serve its outstanding natural features. However, its human way, using a frow (froe) and mallet. Dam, N.C. history also provides a unique story. It tells of Cherokee Reprinted from Ecological Monographs, v. 26, pp. 1-80. 1956. Indians who have inhabited the region for hundreds of years, Accommodations Inside the Park of white settlers who lived isolated and primitive lives here well into the 20th century, and of lumbering operations that Accessible only by foot or horse trail, Le Conte Lodge offers went on before the park was established. But the rest of the HOW TO REACH THE PARK the only concessioner-operated accommodations within the park world knew little of this history until about 50 years ago. boundaries. To reach this secluded retreat at the top of Mount There is bus service to Knoxville, Tenn., and Asheville, N.C, For many generations, the region has been the home of the Le Conte, you should allow for a day's journey on a mountain and airline service to Knoxville. Buses cross the park seven Cherokee people, who still occupy a reservation in North trail. Meals are furnished at the lodge, but you should bring times daily each way between the two cities via Cherokee and Carolina adjacent to the park on the south. The few white your lunch for the noontime pause along the trail. Be sure to Gatlinburg. Smoky Mountain Tours, Inc., with offices in make reservations in advance for both overnight and extended settlers were rugged mountaineer descendants of colonists from Asheville and Knoxville, operate sightseeing buses through the stays. Write direct to Le Conte Lodge, Gatlinburg, Tenn. England and Scotland. They saw the coming of logging rail­ park in summer. Saddle horses are available at Cades Cove, Smokemont, Dudley roads that penetrated the virgin forests early in the present If you are traveling by car, consult a current road map. century. They watched the first highways skirt the foothills Creek, and Two Mile Branch near Gatlinburg. Write direct for rates. and bring an end to their seclusion. Camping is popular in the Great Smokies. Even in winter, Some of the clearings for the sloping little farms, with log WHERE TO STAY a night seldom passes without at least one or two hardy souls structures in varying stages of disintegration, still remain as spreading their bedrolls somewhere in these hills. In summer, evidence of a way of life which has practically disappeared in When you decide to spend your vacation in the Great the campers come in great numbers. Eastern United States. Some of these log cabins, barns, and Smokies, it's a good idea to plan where to stay in advance of Camping areas lack modern facilities but are equipped with other buildings have been rehabilitated so that you may see the your arrival. Will you use the modern conveniences of motels tables and pit toilets, and some have fireplaces. original structures in their true setting. Most of them are in and hotels in the cities and towns nearby? Or will you prefer Campgrounds are furnished with water, fireplaces, tables Cades Cove, where an overshot water wheel powers the park's to explore the mountains from one of the several campgrounds and benches, comfort stations, and tent and trailer space. You only gristmill that still grinds kernels of corn into fresh within the park boundaries? must bring your own tent and other camping equipment since cornmeal. Your choice has much to do with the clothing and other no sleeping shelters are provided. Also, electric and sewer Authentic mountaineer structures are assembled at Ocona- equipment you will bring along. A sweater or jacket will feel connections are not available for trailers. Campsites cannot luftee Visitor Center on U.S. 441, about 2 miles north of good on cool summer evenings. Bring casual sportswear for be reserved. You won't need a permit, but be sure to register Cherokee, N.C. On display are tools, household objects and summer, sturdy shoes for hiking, and don't forget your rain- upon arrival and sign out when you leave.

28 29 26 HELP US PROTECT THE PARK ADMINISTRATION We want you and those who come after you to enjoy your Great Smoky Mountains National Park is administered by visits. You can help us protect the park's beauty and its wild­ The Campfire the National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. The National Park System, of which this park is a unit, is life by observing a few regulations. The campfire can warm your frost-nipped fingers, convert dedicated to conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic herit­ Great Smoky Wildlife protection. The park is a sanctuary for all living your slippery wet trout into a tasty browned morsel, or cast age of the United States for the benefit and enjoyment of its things. To destroy, injure, or disturb any form of animal or a cheerful glow on the faces around an evening circle. The iL^WZmh vt -»

AVOID FINES AND INJURY: DO NOT FEED OR MOLEST THE BEARS

Cover: A quiet trail through hardwood forests. (Courtesy, Paul A. Moore, Tennessee Conservation Department.)

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

Remember, this park will be even more important For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 20402 - Price 15 cents to their children and grandchildren. Revised 1966 U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: I966-C>-797-965

North Carolina and Tennessee