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A VIEW WITH A THRILL THE MAN GoldenWITH THE

Rebecca Wallwork visits Goldeneye, the Jamaican ISLANDisland where wrote his Bond novels and which founder (left) has transformed into a resort with one hell of a story behind it. The water is clear, the sun hot, the Red Stripe ice cold, and the pace as relaxed as the that wafts from the open-air Bizot Bar. The history of GoldenEye is steeped in the legend of , but if you’re checking into this posh resort on ’s north coast, you can leave the suits and the Walther PP at home. The most dangerous pursuit here is riding a jet ski or falling out of your hammock after too many shots of Blackwell Rum. Courtesy GoldenEye; Corbis

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SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED Goldeneye’s driving force, Island Blackwell likes to drink his Records founder Chris Blackwell (left); The Fleming Room, aka latest hit, Blackwell Rum, Goldeneye’s reception area (this neat, no rocks. But here’s pic); Ian Fleming at work in his how the dark rum with villa (below). the hint of citrus is served in GoldenEye’s signature cocktail: 3 SHOTS BLACKWELL RUM 1 SHOT LIME JUICE 1 SHOT ORANGE JUICE 1 SHOT PINEAPPLE JUICE 2 SHOTS SIMPLE SYRUP ICE Combine all the ingredients The resort itself feels like an in a cocktail shaker and adult playground. When you shake. (For a frostier version, throw it all in the blender first arrive at the gazebo, you ‘I’ NOT A PROPER BUSINESS MAN… and blend until smooth.) look across the fairy light-strung Garnish with orange or footbridge towards the beach I’m behind the scenes and under the radar. pineapple slices to serve. dotted with one and two- bedroom beach cottages and My role is presenting other people.’ think, Robinson Crusoe. You see a small boat, Glass Eye, waiting GoldenEye, once the site of a donkey international fame and made stars out of to take you for a spin out on the racecourse, began its transformation into an , Robert Palmer, and a little pub reef, and a host of snorkel and exclusive beach resort when author Ian Fleming band called . He wouldn’t mention that he A tree planted by Willie Nelson, kayak gear poking out of a cave purchased the land and built a simple home worked on the set of Dr. No; grew up attending one of many celebs to do so by the lagoon. There’s even a at Goldeneye (top right); the overlooking the ocean – an almost monastic parties at the homes of Noel Coward and Gazebo dining room (this pic); little island in the middle of the building that would become the birthplace of Ian Fleming – or that he eventually bought Fleming with on beach that you can swim or James Bond. Fleming had fallen for Jamaica Fleming’s house and turned it into the jewel of the set of Dr No (below left); wade over to, drink in hand, for while on a secret mission for Britain’s naval his boutique hotel collection. Blackwell with Andress, Sean a little quiet time. (The barbie Connery and Dr No director intelligence service. He moved to GoldenEye in Nor would he name drop and tell you Terence Young (above right). and built-in picnic table is a cue ’46, wrote Royale in 1952, and continued that Beyonce and Jay-Z like to holiday at that it sees more festive uses as conjuring 007 from his perch above the GoldenEye or that Bjork and No Doubt have well.) Cottages are stocked with Caribbean Sea for the next 12 years. laid down tracks at his Jamaican hotel- STORIED LUXURY chat to the bloke who cooked your dinner luxurious details (batik bathrobes and Jamaican Theatrical party-thrower Noel Coward was recording studio Geejam. From the driver who picked us up and handed and the lady who picked up your towels, and bath products), including a daybed for naps and GoldenEye’s first guest, although he was Chris Blackwell wouldn’t do any of that us a Red Stripe out of the esky in the back of not feel weirded out by that whole concept of a freestanding tub. The prize for best amenity, so unimpressed with the rustic amenities, because Chris Blackwell is a gentleman. the car at Montego Bay airport to our favourite servitude. Liberal use of the phrase ‘yeah, mon’, however, is a toss-up between the hammock he dubbed it “GoldenEye, nose and throat.” , however, would tell you – as he told the bartender at the hotel’s Bizot Bar, the staff especially from the handsome twins who run and outdoor shower, the in-room music system He built his own house up the hill, Firefly, audience during Blackwell’s induction speech are one of the best things about GoldenEye. the ‘wata sports’ activities, only enhances the and the retro-style Smeg fridge stocked with triggering a stream of rich and famous guests into the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame – that the They’ll chat with you about the woeful state relaxed, we’re-all-mates-here vibe. cold ones. As for that music – with Blackwell that continues at GoldenEye to this day. Island Records founder deserves his place in of West Indies cricket and their pride in Usain “I started working with people from the behind the scenes, you know it’s gotta be good. But the GoldenEye of 2012 is built on more that institution... because he built it. Bolt. They’ll tell you about their kid, who has same economic level in the music business, so The MySqueezebox.com system has a playlist than the roots of Bond – after years as a semi- If you’re not familiar with Blackwell as a mountains of homework, even at nine, and once I view my staff as individuals, not as a mass of of 1,557 different artists, making it the mother of private guesthouse, frequented by everyone producer and founder of Island Records or, you’re buzzed on the house specialty – the people,” says Blackwell. “I encourage them to all streaming iPod libraries. Not surprisingly, it’s from Willie Nelson to Johnny Depp, GoldenEye more recently, as a hotelier, it’s because the GoldenEye cocktail – and you stumble back be themselves because you can’t get that sort heavy on the reggae but is also filled with solid is now a world-class if laidback resort we can man is almost infuriatingly humble. to your cottage for a quick kip before dinner, of Eastern service from Jamaicans. You know, alternatives like Lil Kim, Louis Armstrong, and all visit. And we have reggae to thank for it – “I would not describe myself as a proper they’ll call you to let you know that the sun is where you take off your shirt and the next thing non-annoying jazz and world music. reggae, rock ‘n’ roll, and the GoldenEye’s post- business man,” he says. “I am much more about to set and since you were talking about it it’s washed and ironed and put in your closet Prices up at the Bizot Bar are as reasonable Fleming owner, Chris Blackwell. driven by the creative side of it. I’m behind up at the bar, perhaps you’d like to see it. and you never saw anyone do it. That’s great in as the minibar, and the food, while not cheap, If you happened to sit next to Blackwell on the scenes and under the radar virtually all CHRIS BLACKWELL’S Courtesy GoldenEye; Rebecca Wallwork Jamaicans are a proud people, and it’s a a way but it’s a bit too cold for my taste. I like to is somewhat less than what you’d pay at other a plane – and you asked the chap with the the time because my role is presenting other pleasure to stay somewhere where you can communicate with people.” ritzy resorts. Plus, it’s delicious: jerk chicken thinning gray hair and the white beard what he people. ALL-TIME TOP 5 TRACKS instead of boring club sandwiches, local fish, did for a living, he might reply: “I’ve worked in “I am not a Richard Branson. I don’t feel MOZART: “Anything.” steamed callaloo (a leafy green that actually music and also in small property development.” comfortable being an up-the-front person.” MAHALIA: “Move On tastes good), and, for breakfast, slowly cooked Up A Little Higher.” He wouldn’t be brash enough to tell you In fact, the secret of his success seems to be: THE VERY HOUSE WHERE FLEMING ackee and salt fish. : “In A Silent Way.’ that he founded one of the most creative and Make something I love myself and that others BOB : “So Much WROTE ALL 14 BOND NOVELS Most guests come here for the isolation, successful independent record companies might enjoy. Hire talented people to run the Trouble In The World.” but for anyone bored by sitting in a pool, in history; that he catapulted to show, and nick off for a jet ski before dinner. MARVIN GAYE: “Inner City Blues.” is now available to rent out as a three-bedroom pad. drink in hand, the town of Ocho Rios is a short

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A VIEW FOR A THRILL / drive away – and resort staff can arrange any EXTRA HOMEWORK number of excursions off-property. Can’t tell The Story Of Island you much about those, however, as the furthest Records: we ventured was to take a stroll through the Preface by Chris Blackwell, trees planted by famous visitors and into the Edited by Suzette Newman backyard of the unoccupied Fleming Villa. and Chris Salewicz [Rizzoli, This, the very house where Fleming wrote all USA]. 14 Bond novels, is now available to rent out as This hardcover book, published in 2010 to mark a three-bedroom pad, each room with its own Island’s 50th anniversary is outdoor garden bath and rain shower. The villa a feast of album art, artist has been maintained in a spartan, Fleming- portraits and essays that chart esque style – now with modern amenities – and the success of Blackwell’s label and Island’s legendary has a private pool and well-kept clifftop garden acts such as Bob Marley, U2, overlooking Fleming’s own private beach. Since , , no-one was home as we rambled about, we Eric B & Rakim, and popped down to said beach for an exploratory Amy Winehouse. dip. Lush green trees overhanging clear, green- blue water, and a perfect little slice of sandy beach – it’s easy to see why Fleming chose this particular part of the property as his own. The only other being we saw while in the water and popping in and out of rocky caves here was the local fishermen rowing by out on the ocean. EARLY BONDING The connection between Fleming and Blackwell goes deeper than the fact that both were pioneers in their professions, with famously creative friends. Blackwell spent his first 10 years on Jamaica, and frequently went to lunches at Goldeneye with his mother, resort’s main office. The tradition began with Blanche Lindo – who, by all accounts was, in Sir Anthony Eden, and a slew of stars have the parlance of the time, a close confidante since planted a tree to support the of Fleming’s. (Some even say she was the Foundation, which Blackwell started so inspiration for the character Pussy Galore.) 1 that GoldenEye could help its neighbours. In 1961, when the filming of the first Bond Wandering the mango, ackee, guava and star film Dr. No began on the island, Fleming apple trees is like panning the crowd at the recommended Blackwell for the job of location Oscars or Grammys: plaques bearing the names scout. He loved the work but it wasn’t enough of planters such as Harrison Ford, Quincy Jones, to pull him away from the fledgling record Harry Belafonte, Jim Carrey, Johnny Depp, company he had started a couple of years Dennis Hopper, Fatboy Slim, Kate Moss, Naomi earlier, with a $1,000 investment and a name Campbell, Gwyneth Paltrow and . taken from the Alec Waugh novel Island In The Sun. Back then, he was a waterski instructor at HANGING STARS the Half Moon Resort in Montego Bay, and had Despite the A-list guestbook, Goldeneye is far no inkling that his little label would become so from intimidating. That’s all part of Blackwell’s large that he could sell it to Polygram in 1989, master plan – which is to say, his non-plan. 2 or that after retiring from the label in 1997, “I called my hotel company Island Outpost he would establish and Island because an outpost doesn’t promise anything,” Outpost, the hotel group created to showcase he says. “You might have a roof over Chris Blackwell Blackwell’s beloved Jamaica to the world. at GoldenEye 3 your head and a working loo. But He had taken ownership of Goldeneye in (top). 1. With Joe that means we can always try to give 1976, when he first tried to convince Bob Cocker. 2. And a you more than you expected.” The Marley to buy the property. “He [Marley] said youthful U2. 3. simplicity of Blackwell’s strategy in the With Bob Marley he would always let my mother swim there,” and some Wailers. hotel world echoes the one he used says Blackwell. “But then he got cold feet, said 4. Bono, Blackwell to create hits for Island: “In the record it was too posh, so the next year, when I was and Neil Portnow industry, you want to turn people onto flush again, I bought it myself. The original sale at the Rock ‘n’ new music,” he says, “In the hotel Roll Hall Of Fame. document said ‘Bob Marley’ and we crossed 5. Blackwell and business you want to turn people onto that out and wrote in ‘Chris Blackwell’. Grace Jones. a view or a beautiful beach. Both jobs I thought of living there, but I never did – are about trying to inspire people.”

I just went there sometimes, swam there 4 5 As we drink our three-dollar Red Courtesy GoldenEye; Getty Images sometimes, let friends and family stay Stripe and doze off on the porch there sometimes. You could say it was a of our cottage, watching the sky house I used as an entertaining place.” darken over Goldeneye’s beach, Some of those people he entertained there is only one thing to say about left behind a little something for the Blackwell’s unique, chilled-out regular folks to gawk at – trees, planted idea of hospitality. Just two words: in the garden in front of the villas and Yeah, mon. D

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