A VIEW WITH A THRILL THE MAN GoldenWITH THE Rebecca Wallwork visits Goldeneye, the Jamaican ISLANDisland where Ian Fleming wrote his Bond novels and which Island Records founder Chris Blackwell (left) has transformed into a resort with one hell of a story behind it. The water is clear, the sun hot, the Red Stripe ice cold, and the pace as relaxed as the reggae that wafts from the open-air Bizot Bar. The history of GoldenEye is steeped in the legend of James Bond, but if you’re checking into this posh resort on Jamaica’s north coast, you can leave the Brioni suits and the Walther PP at home. The most dangerous pursuit here is riding a jet ski or falling out of your hammock after too many shots of Blackwell Rum. Courtesy GoldenEye; Corbis MEn’S STYle 111 / A VIEW FOR A THRILL SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED Goldeneye’s driving force, Island Blackwell likes to drink his Records founder Chris Blackwell (left); The Fleming Room, aka latest hit, Blackwell Rum, Goldeneye’s reception area (this neat, no rocks. But here’s pic); Ian Fleming at work in his how the dark rum with villa (below). the hint of citrus is served in GoldenEye’s signature cocktail: 3 SHOTS BLACKWELL RUM 1 SHOT LIME JUICE 1 SHOT ORANGE JUICE 1 SHOT PINEAPPLE JUICE 2 SHOTS SIMPLE SYRUP ICE Combine all the ingredients The resort itself feels like an in a cocktail shaker and adult playground. When you shake. (For a frostier version, throw it all in the blender first arrive at the gazebo, you ‘I’M NOT A PROPER BUSINESS MAN… and blend until smooth.) look across the fairy light-strung Garnish with orange or footbridge towards the beach I’m behind the scenes and under the radar. pineapple slices to serve. dotted with one and two- bedroom beach cottages and My role is presenting other people.’ think, Robinson Crusoe. You see a small boat, Glass Eye, waiting GoldenEye, once the site of a donkey international fame and made stars out of to take you for a spin out on the racecourse, began its transformation into an Grace Jones, Robert Palmer, and a little pub reef, and a host of snorkel and exclusive beach resort when author Ian Fleming band called U2. He wouldn’t mention that he A tree planted by Willie Nelson, kayak gear poking out of a cave purchased the land and built a simple home worked on the set of Dr. No; grew up attending one of many celebs to do so by the lagoon. There’s even a at Goldeneye (top right); the overlooking the ocean – an almost monastic parties at the homes of Noel Coward and Gazebo dining room (this pic); little island in the middle of the building that would become the birthplace of Ian Fleming – or that he eventually bought Fleming with Ursula Andress on beach that you can swim or James Bond. Fleming had fallen for Jamaica Fleming’s house and turned it into the jewel of the set of Dr No (below left); wade over to, drink in hand, for while on a secret mission for Britain’s naval his boutique hotel collection. Blackwell with Andress, Sean a little quiet time. (The barbie Connery and Dr No director intelligence service. He moved to GoldenEye in Nor would he name drop and tell you Terence Young (above right). and built-in picnic table is a cue ’46, wrote Casino Royale in 1952, and continued that Beyonce and Jay-Z like to holiday at that it sees more festive uses as conjuring 007 from his perch above the GoldenEye or that Bjork and No Doubt have well.) Cottages are stocked with Caribbean Sea for the next 12 years. laid down tracks at his Jamaican hotel- STORIED LUXURY chat to the bloke who cooked your dinner luxurious details (batik bathrobes and Jamaican Theatrical party-thrower Noel Coward was recording studio Geejam. From the driver who picked us up and handed and the lady who picked up your towels, and bath products), including a daybed for naps and GoldenEye’s first guest, although he was Chris Blackwell wouldn’t do any of that us a Red Stripe out of the esky in the back of not feel weirded out by that whole concept of a freestanding tub. The prize for best amenity, so unimpressed with the rustic amenities, because Chris Blackwell is a gentleman. the car at Montego Bay airport to our favourite servitude. Liberal use of the phrase ‘yeah, mon’, however, is a toss-up between the hammock he dubbed it “GoldenEye, nose and throat.” Bono, however, would tell you – as he told the bartender at the hotel’s Bizot Bar, the staff especially from the handsome twins who run and outdoor shower, the in-room music system He built his own house up the hill, Firefly, audience during Blackwell’s induction speech are one of the best things about GoldenEye. the ‘wata sports’ activities, only enhances the and the retro-style Smeg fridge stocked with triggering a stream of rich and famous guests into the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame – that the They’ll chat with you about the woeful state relaxed, we’re-all-mates-here vibe. cold ones. As for that music – with Blackwell that continues at GoldenEye to this day. Island Records founder deserves his place in of West Indies cricket and their pride in Usain “I started working with people from the behind the scenes, you know it’s gotta be good. But the GoldenEye of 2012 is built on more that institution... because he built it. Bolt. They’ll tell you about their kid, who has same economic level in the music business, so The MySqueezebox.com system has a playlist than the roots of Bond – after years as a semi- If you’re not familiar with Blackwell as a mountains of homework, even at nine, and once I view my staff as individuals, not as a mass of of 1,557 different artists, making it the mother of private guesthouse, frequented by everyone producer and founder of Island Records or, you’re buzzed on the house specialty – the people,” says Blackwell. “I encourage them to all streaming iPod libraries. Not surprisingly, it’s from Willie Nelson to Johnny Depp, GoldenEye more recently, as a hotelier, it’s because the GoldenEye cocktail – and you stumble back be themselves because you can’t get that sort heavy on the reggae but is also filled with solid is now a world-class if laidback resort we can man is almost infuriatingly humble. to your cottage for a quick kip before dinner, of Eastern service from Jamaicans. You know, alternatives like Lil Kim, Louis Armstrong, and all visit. And we have reggae to thank for it – “I would not describe myself as a proper they’ll call you to let you know that the sun is where you take off your shirt and the next thing non-annoying jazz and world music. reggae, rock ‘n’ roll, and the GoldenEye’s post- business man,” he says. “I am much more about to set and since you were talking about it it’s washed and ironed and put in your closet Prices up at the Bizot Bar are as reasonable Fleming owner, Chris Blackwell. driven by the creative side of it. I’m behind up at the bar, perhaps you’d like to see it. and you never saw anyone do it. That’s great in as the minibar, and the food, while not cheap, If you happened to sit next to Blackwell on the scenes and under the radar virtually all CHRIS BLACKWELL’S Courtesy GoldenEye; Rebecca Wallwork Jamaicans are a proud people, and it’s a a way but it’s a bit too cold for my taste. I like to is somewhat less than what you’d pay at other a plane – and you asked the chap with the the time because my role is presenting other pleasure to stay somewhere where you can communicate with people.” ritzy resorts. Plus, it’s delicious: jerk chicken thinning gray hair and the white beard what he people. ALL-TIME TOP 5 TRACKS instead of boring club sandwiches, local fish, did for a living, he might reply: “I’ve worked in “I am not a Richard Branson. I don’t feel MOZART: “Anything.” steamed callaloo (a leafy green that actually music and also in small property development.” comfortable being an up-the-front person.” MAHALIA: “Move On tastes good), and, for breakfast, slowly cooked Up A Little Higher.” He wouldn’t be brash enough to tell you In fact, the secret of his success seems to be: THE VERY HOUSE WHERE FLEMING ackee and salt fish. MILES DAVIS: “In A Silent Way.’ that he founded one of the most creative and Make something I love myself and that others BOB MARLEY: “So Much WROTE ALL 14 BOND NOVELS Most guests come here for the isolation, successful independent record companies might enjoy. Hire talented people to run the Trouble In The World.” but for anyone bored by sitting in a pool, in history; that he catapulted Bob Marley to show, and nick off for a jet ski before dinner. MARVIN GAYE: “Inner City Blues.” is now available to rent out as a three-bedroom pad. drink in hand, the town of Ocho Rios is a short 112 MEn’S STYle MEn’S STYle 113 A VIEW FOR A THRILL / drive away – and resort staff can arrange any EXTRA HOMEWORK number of excursions off-property.