Hong Kong: Die „Kochende“ Metropole Viele Haben Hongkong Abgeschrieben

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Hong Kong: Die „Kochende“ Metropole Viele Haben Hongkong Abgeschrieben HONG KONG: Die „kochende“ Metropole VIELE HABEN HONGKONG ABGESCHRIEBEN. DOCH DIE SCHWARZSEHER LAGEN FALSCH: ZEHN JAHRE NACH DER ÜBERGABE AN CHINA LEUCHTET DER „DUFTENDE Hafen“ HELLER DENN JE. Text: Robert Kropf 64 GOURMETREISE ist Freitag und es ist der Hongkonger Gesellschaft ein und aus gehen. wie immer an Freita- Rhombergs Kee Club befindet sich in Long Kwai gen in Hongkong: Die Fong, dem Ausgehviertel der Stadt. „Es ist so viel MO-Bar im Mandarin los hier, dass selbst wir Insider den Überblick ver- Oriental Landmark lieren“, sagt er. „Da gründen die Es ist bis auf den letzten Jungs vom Drop das Fine, die Platz gefüllt, die Liegebetten in vom Jewel haben das Dojo und HONGKONG der Hutong-Bar im 27. Stock des die vom Fly das Covar eröffnet.“ HAT SICH ALS Hause One Peking Road sind alle Allesamt Bars, „die überquellen KOSMOPOLITISCHE belegt, im Dragon-i im Stadtteil von Hongkong-Chinesen und in- Central fließt der Champagner ternationalem Publikum“, sagt POWER-METROPO- in Strömen. Hongkong feiert. er. Wer damals, vor zehn Jah- LE VÖLLIG NEU Nur in der Bar des Kee Clubs ren, bei der Übergabe an China ERFUNDEN. geht es ein wenig ruhiger zu, sagte, Hongkong befinde sich SCHANGHAI um nicht fast zu sagen gesittet. auf dem Weg nach unten, hat GLITZERT Schauspieler, Verleger, Milli- sich kräftig geirrt. Der „duften- NUR, HONGKONG onäre, Designer, Models, alle de Hafen“ leuchtet so hell wie drängen sich an der Ledertheke nie zuvor. „Die Stadt hat sich als LEUCHTET. des Privatclubs. Nur wer Mit- Chinas kosmopolitische Power- » glied ist, darf in den Club. Mit- Metropole neu erfunden “, sagt tendrin steht ein Mann, der sie Rhomberg. „Schanghai glitzert bloß, Hongkong alle kennt: Chris tian Rhomberg. leuchtet“, fügt die Dame hinzu, die sich zu Rhom- Er ist Besitzer des Clubs, in dem berg gesellt. Sie heißt Michelle Garnault, groß und Fotos: Hong Kong Tourism Board, NOBU InterContinental HongSime Kong, Photo - Bildagentur Huber, beigestellt, Robert Kropf. die 2000 wichtigsten Mitglieder weizenblond – für Chinesen ein Weltwunder, aber Winter 2007 65 Die Stadt leuchtet. Backstreet-Life in Hongkong Central, einem Sammel- surium an Shops, Garküchen und Unterhaltungs- industrie in der Stadt, die niemals schläft. 66 GOURMETREISE Haute Cuisine auf Chinesisch. Die Klassiker werden auf der Straße serviert. Ein Tag ohne Congee, gebratene Gans oder Fishballs aus der Garküche ist ein schlech- ter chinesischer Tag. das ist sie gewohnt. Ihr gehören die Lokale M on the Bound und M at the Fringe. Beide zählen seit Jahren zu den Hot Spots der Highest Society in Hongkong. „HK ist das New York Asiens, es ist viel schöner und zivilisier- ter“, sagt sie, „in Schanghai gibt es nicht einmal ein vernünftiges Yogastudio“. In den letzten Jahren zog es zahlreiche neue Restaurants in die Stadt. Etwa Alain Ducasse und Nobu Matsuhisa. Beide re- sidieren im noblen InterConti- nental Hotel in Koowlong – in ungewöhnlicher Nähe zueinan- der. Sitzt man im ersten Stock von Nobus Sushi-Lokal, schaut man den Gästen im Spoon von Ducasse in die Suppe – eine Ga- lerie im Lokal macht das mög- lich. Zu verdanken haben die beiden Herren ihr Engagement dem Generalmanger des Ho- tels, Jean Jacques Reibel, der beide Herren kannte und sie in sein Hotel holte, dessen Gene- ralsanierung dieser Tage abge- schlossen wurde. Ein weiterer prominenter Zugang ist das Zuma des deutschen Chefkochs Rainer Becker, das bisher nur in London existierte und schon dort als bester Japaner der Stadt galt. Lokale wie das As- pasia im 2006 eröffneten Bouti- quehotel The LuxeManor locken neues Publikum an. Darin steht Roland Schuller am Herd, ein Österreicher, der schon auf der Motoryacht „Christina Onassis“ gekocht hat. Richard Ekkebus kocht im Amber im Landmark Oriental so gut, dass das Lokal mittags und abends drei- bis viermal überquillt. Im Restau- rant Petrus auf dem Dach des Winter 2007 67 Happy Valley Market. Hierher kommen die rich People, um ihren frischen Fisch zu kaufen. Beliebter Treffpunkt: Das Chu Kee- Restaurant. *HonGKonG Shangri La Hotels thront der Stadt, nimmt auf solche Freiheiten Rücksicht.“ SHOPPingTiPPS beste Franzose der Stadt. Und Zurück zu Rhomberg. Bevor er den Club vor fünf wer es genau wissen will: Im Jahren gründete, prägte er bereits 20 Jahre lang Antiquitäten und Restaurant Felix und der dazu- das Nachtleben der Stadt. Er ist 1981 direkt nach GAlerien. Hongkongs gehörigen berühmten Bar im seinem Wirtschaftsstudium als zweiter Handels- Hollywood Road ist voll von Peninsula Hotel stehen die Her- delegierter Österreichs in die britische Kronko- geschäften mit antiker und ren am Glaspissoir und schauen lonie gekommen. Nach einem Jahr wurde ihm zeitgenössischer Kunst. Die dabei auf die Skyline der Stadt, das zu langweilig, er wechselte in die freie Gast- besten namen: 10 Chancery Lane die neuerdings im neu insze- ronomenszene – mit großem Erfolg. Das ging so gallery, Asia Art Archive, Plum bis 1997. Kurz vor der Übergabe an China nutzte Blossoms gallery, Altfield, The er die letzten Züge des Finanzhochs in Asien und Antique Box. WER ETWAS VON verkaufte alle Läden und Immobilien. Danach zog er sich einige Jahre zurück, um sich vom Geschäft Chinoise ChiC. Wunder- SICH HÄLT, GEHT zu erholen. Bis er auf die Idee des Kee Clubs kam. schöne Mode von modernen IN DIE AQUA-BAR Entworfen hat Rhomberg den Club als Mi- asiatischen Designern gibt es bei UND SCHAUT DEN schung aus einer Pariser oder Berliner Wohnung Shanghai Tang, Pedder Building HERRN IM FELIX des frühen 20. Jahrhunderts und einem zeitgenös- 12, Central und bei Blanc de DES PENSINSULA sischen Kunstraum. Bei einem Rundgang erkennt Chine im selben Haus. Auch gut: HOTELS BEIM man schnell, dass Rhomberg mit dem Club – ähn- Vivienne Tam, Pacific Place. lich wie Sven Väth in Frankfurt mit dem Cocoon – PINKELN ZU. versucht, eine Nachtlebenalternative für Leute in Factory outlets. » den Dreißigern und Vierzigern aufzuzeigen. Ana- Luxus gibt es auch günstiger in log zum Cocoon kann der Kee Club mit Gianluigi Hongkong. im Pedderbuilding in nierten Lichterspektakel ab Bonelli einen exquisiten Starkoch aufbieten. Central. Die Musts: Hi-Moda, St. Punkt acht Uhr abends glitzert. Tags darauf: Bei einem „Yin Yeung“ – halb Regis/Safari. Auch gut: das Joyce „Hipper ist nur, wer ins Aqua im Kaffee, halb Milchtee – im Stadtviertel Mongkog, Warehouse am Horizon Plaza. 28. Stock des Hauses One Pe- voll mit Märkten und Local Food, Garküchen king Road geht, gleich ums Eck und gefälschten Designertaschen, vermeldet die die besten shoppinG- des Peninsula“, sagt Rhomberg. South China Morning Post Skurriles: Mit einer mAlls: Festival Walk in den „Dort schaut man auf das Felix ungewöhnlichen Maßnahme leisten Hongkongs new Territories, die Harbour City und die Herren vom Fernblick- Restaurants einen eigenen Beitrag im Kampf ge- am Hafen, The Landmark in Cen- Pissoir hinab. „Zwar nur sprich- gen die wachsenden Abfallberge: Seit einiger Zeit tral, Lane Crawford in der Queens wörtlich“, sagt er lachend, „aber drohen sie ihren Kunden mit Strafe, wenn diese Road, das Pacific Place und das wer etwas sein will in dieser ihre Teller nicht leeren. Wer nicht aufesse, werde Sogo in Causeway Bay. 68 GOURMETREISE *HonGKonGS PRivate Kitchen Essen gAnz PRivat Privat Kitchens tauchten erstmals nach der Übergabe 1997 an China auf. Viele verloren ihre Jobs und begannen in ihren Privatwohnungen für gäste zu Grandioser Blick. Im kochen, die dafür bezahlten. neuen Restaurant Rund 200 Private Kitchens sind in Hongkong noch zu finden. Drei nobu im InterConti- Beispiele in drei Preisklassen. mit einer Gebühr von bis zu 20 Hongkong-Dollar nental speist man mit (etwa 1,90 Euro) belegt. Das ist Hongkongs zweite fantastischem Blick yelloW door KitChen Seite, auf der es nicht glitzernd leuchtet. Die ehe- auf die Skyline. Das eine winzige Private Kitchen mit- malige britische Kronkolonie hat derzeit große Panorama einen Stock ten im Stadtteil Central. eine der Probleme mit der Abfallentsorgung, da es keinen darunter, im Spoon ersten Private Kitchen, die ende Platz für neue Müllkippen gibt. Allein die Restau- von Alain Ducasse, ist der 90er-Jahre eröffnet wurde. rants der Sieben-Millionen-Stadt werfen täglich um nichts schlechter. Sichuan-Küche. 700 Tonnen Speisereste weg. „Rund 10.000 Res- Jeden Tag geöffnet. taurants gibt es“, erklärt Reiseführer Fred, der 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, BoHo, früher Polizist war und nun sein Geld Central. Tel.: +852/ 28 58 65 55, neben der Fremdenführerei mit Ver- www.yellowdoorkitchen.com.hk sicherungsverkauf und Gebraucht- ZWEI MILLIO- wagenhandel verdient. „Ansonsten the plAyGround könne er sich das Leben in Hongkong NEN DOLLAR Walter Kei´s berühmt-berüch- nicht leisten.“ Zwei Millionen Dollar KOSTEN 100 M² tigte Private Kitchen auf Hong- kosten 100 m2 Wohnfläche auf The WOHNFLÄCHE kong island. Holztisch, nackter ze- Peak. „Doppelt so viel noch wie vor AUF DEM BERG mentboden, antike Steinfiguren. zwei Jahren“, sagt er. Fred zeigt sein THE PEAK. DAS Kei ist interior-Designer, hat eine Hongkong: South und North of Holly- IST DOPPELT SO eigene Kochsendung. er kocht wood Road – die Gegend entspricht „Modern Chinese“. Block B, 5F, gar nicht der urbanen Hightechinsze- VIEL WIE VOR Unit 10, Ming Pao industr. Central, nierung. Die Häuser haben Patina, ZWEI JAHREN. 18 Ka Yip Street, Chai Wan. sie sind maximal fünf Stockwerke Tel.: +852/81 18 56 25. hoch. Auf der Elgin Street teilt eine » mobile Küche Schüsseln mit Nudeln aus, daneben privAte h hockt ein Greis vor seiner Singer-Nähmaschine Harlan goldstein betreibt und näht Hosen um. In der Peel Street quirlt der sechs Restaurants und Bars in Wochenmarkt, verkauft werden Gemüse, frische Hongkong, darunter das Private Fische und 1000-jährige Eier. Abends führt er uns H. Platz für 14 Personen. Butler- vor die Stadt, zum Fischmarkt von Lee Ju Moon service, Harlan kocht selbst. 200 – mit Plastiktischen, warmem Dragon-Bier und Weine aus aller Welt. Sauteuer, frischem Fisch aus dem Aquarium. „Auch hier aber es wirkt. leuchtet die Stadt nur so, wie wir Chinesen sie Tel.: +852 2805 0638.
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