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1 Journey to Rome: Approaching and Exploring the Eternal City

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Journey to Rome: Approaching and Exploring the Eternal City (INDS 214, January 2019) Munich‐Verona‐Rome Rome Pompeii SYLLABUS Instructors: Associate Professors Markus Dubischar (Classics) and Nestor Gil (Art) Course Description The breadth and depth of Rome's historic and cultural legacy are matched by few other cities in the world. This course will be a double journey in time. Naturally, we will explore the city of Rome itself, considerably (but not exclusively!) focusing on classical antiquity. In addition, we will attempt to recreate the experience of traveling to the Eternal City as an educational and transformational experience sought by noblemen, intellectuals, and artists in the 18th and 19th centuries. The reports of four famous Rome travelers (Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Charles Dickens, Mark Twain, and Henry James) will add depth and reflection to our own journeys and explorations. This course consists of three main parts: (1) the approach to Rome, literally and metaphorically, following Goethe's path via Munich, Innsbruck‐Brenner, and Verona; (2) explorations in Rome, combining classroom sessions and extensive archeological, cultural, and art‐historical excursions; (3) a visit to the Naples area with two of the best‐excavated sites of Roman antiquity, the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, destroyed – but paradoxically also preserved – by an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. Learning Outcomes In this course, students will gain critical historical understanding of Rome as a cultural and political center through the ages, as well as of "Rome" as an idealized city of the imagination. By the end of this course, students will be able to: 1. Identify the major historical, cultural, and in particular art historical developments over ancient Rome's four main periods (Kings, Republic, Empire, Late Antiquity). 2. Identify the major historical, cultural, and in particular art historical developments in Italy of the mediaeval period, the renaissance, the baroque age, and nationalism, and modernity. 3. Contrast travel practices in the 18th and 19th centuries with traveling in today's globalized world; explain how traveling as a social practice is conditioned by contemporary intellectual, economic, and technological factors. 4. Assess how our image of ancient Rome is indebted especially to the Renaissance and European Romanticism. 5. Demonstrate the close relationships between texts and their contexts by relating classical texts both to Rome's sites that informed them and to art works that were informed by them. 1 Itinerary and Course Topics NEWARK LIBERTY AIRPORT Monday, January 7 5:15pm – Group meets at Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR) For flight times, see “Flight and Hotel Information” on Moodle MUNICH (AND SURROUNDINGS): Greco‐Roman Antiquity North of the Alps Tuesday, January 8 Orientation Late morning – Arrive at Franz Joseph Straus International Airport Munich; bus to hotel Afternoon – Walking tour of Munich Wednesday, January 9 Munich: Ancient and Modern Morning – Tour of Glyptothek Afternoon – Dachau concentration camp or BMW Museum (each student's choice) Thursday, January 10 Regensburg (Castra Regina): on the Northern Border of the Roman Empire Morning – Departure by train from Munich During the day – City of Regensburg: Roman remains, history museum, old town Late afternoon – Departure back to Munich Evening – Group dinner in the Augustinerkeller MUNICH to VERONA: Following a Centuries‐Old Travel Route across the Alps Friday, January 11 Travel Day Morning – Depart Munich Hauptbahnhof by train; via Innsbruck‐Brenner Afternoon – Arrive at Verona, Porta Nuova Station VERONA: A Roman Urban Center in Northern Italy Friday, January 11 (cont'd) Orientation in Verona Late afternoon – Walking tour of Verona 2 Evening – Group Dinner at Osteria Verona Antica Saturday, January 12 Verona: From Rome to Romeo Morning – Tour of Verona's arena and other Roman sites Afternoon – Tour of Verona’s churches and Juliette’s House ROME: The "Eternal City" Sunday, January 13 Travel Day (by bus) and Orientation in Rome Morning – Depart from Verona Coffee break in Modena Afternoon – Arrive in Rome Late afternoon/early evening – Walking tour of hotel vicinity to Trinità dei Monti Monday, January 14 Ancient Rome I: The Rise of Rome Morning – Class Later morning – Palatine Hill Afternoon – Forum Romanum Evening – Group dinner at Taverna dei Quaranta Tuesday, January 15 Ancient Rome II: Cult and Representation Morning – Class Later morning – Capitoline Hill with Capitoline Musuem, Imperial Fora Afternoon – Stadium of Domitian (= today Piazza Navona) and Pantheon; along the way: San Luigi dei Francesi, Santa Maria sopra Minerva Wednesday, January 16 Ancient Rome III: Imperial Megalomania Free Morning Noon – Colosseum Afternoon – Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla Thursday, January 17 Where Average Romans Lived: The Port City of Ostia Morning – Class Later morning – Excursion to Ostia Free afternoon after return from Ostia 3 Friday, January 18 The Christian Transformation: Late Antiquity and the Medieval Ages Morning – Class Later morning – Case Romane Afternoon – San Clemente; optional: St. John Lateran, Porta Maggiore (with ancient city wall and aqueducts) Saturday, January 19 Catholic Power, Splendor, and Spirituality: the Vatican Morning – Class Noon (until closing) – St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican Museums Sunday, January 20 Modern Rome Free morning and early afternoon Mid afternoon – Meet at Spanish Steps, walk through Villa Borghese Gardens Late afternoon – Galleria Borghese NAPLES/POMPEII: Under the Shadow of Mt. Vesuvius Monday, January 21 Travel Day (by bus) and Orientation Bay of Naples Morning – Depart from Rome Coffee break in Palestrina Afternoon – Arrive in Pompeii Late afternoon – Tour of vicinity Evening – Group dinner and class Tuesday, January 22 Destruction and Preservation: Pompeii and Herculaneum Morning – Tour of ancient Pompeii Afternoon – Tour of Herculaneum Evening – Group dinner and class Wednesday, January 23 City of Naples Morning – Naples Archaeological Museum Afternoon – Walking Tour of Naples Evening – Last Group dinner 4 Thursday, January 24 Travel Day and class in Munich (for flight times, see “Flight and Hotel Information” on Moodle) Very early morning – Departure from Aeroporto Internazionale di Napoli Morning – Arrive at Franz Joseph Straus International Airport Munich 9am‐1pm – Class (topic: travel writers on the theme of departure) in conference room at Novotel Munich Airport Afternoon – Depart from Franz Joseph Straus International Airport Munich Evening – Arrive at Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR) Course Materials Every student must purchase: R. Hughes, Rome: A Cultural, Visual, and Personal History, Vintage 2012. (available as hardcover, paperback, or electronically) Every student must have the course reader, provided by the instructors on Moodle. Students must either have a print‐out of the course reader with them or have downloaded the materials onto their computers or tablets. (1) Excerpts from travel writings by Johann Wolfgang Goethe's Italian Journey, Charles Dickens' Pictures from Italy, Mark Twain's Innocents Abroad, and Henry James' Italian Hours (2) Excerpts from C. Strickland, The Annotated Mona Lisa (3) Select passages from Latin literature in English translation The instructors will have with them: F. Coarelli, Rome and Environs : An Archaeological Guide; A. Claridge, Rome. Service Provider While in Germany and Italy, we will rely on logistical and touristic support provided by The Paideia Institute (http://www.paideiainstitute.org) Prerequisites None Attendance Attendance for all planned activities is mandatory. Active Participation Students will arrive on time and prepared for class sessions and excursions; keep up and stay with the group on our tours; contribute to discussions in class and on excursions; ask questions about what they don't understand, whether it concerns ancient Rome or modern Italy; listen carefully to others and treat everyone with respect; gain as much intellectual benefit and life experience as possible from every situation; and contribute positively to the experiences of the other members of our group. Failure to comply with any of the above will count severely against the participation score. 5 Preparatory reading: Hughes, Rome Reading Questions Toward the end of the fall semester 2018, students will receive a set of reading questions covering the first four chapters (pp. 3‐164) of R. Hughes, Rome: A Cultural, Visual, and Personal History. Prior to departure, students must read these chapters and submit their written answers electronically on Moodle by Saturday, Jan 6, 2019, 11:59pm. Daily Assignments To enhance deep learning while abroad, many days will see assignments in the form of readings, discussions, and on‐site tours. As the character of our journey changes, depending on where we are, so will the nature of these assignments. There is, however, one standing assignment: to keep a written daily travel journal (see below). Daily Travel Journal Like many travelers to Italy in past centuries, the course participants will keep a personal daily travel journal in a sturdy, bound notebook. Its contents should be rich in factual information – derived from our excursions, readings, and classroom sessions – and mature in reflections about ancient Roman and Italian history, culture, and society. To respect privacy, the instructors will not read the students' journals. But the instructors will check that the journals are well‐kept and current. The journals
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