L.A.’s Urban Renaissance Take a fresh look at downtown’s thriving food, art, and music scene By Josh Jenisch Westways January/February 2013

Dig into a hearty bowl of tonkotsu ramen at Daikokuya, a popular dining spot in Little Tokyo.

Over the past decade, downtown Los Angeles has experienced a phoenixlike resurrection. Previously abandoned and decaying office buildings are now filled with interesting-looking people and their designer dogs. Cluttered storefronts that once peddled knockoff Nike gear have been transformed into coffee shops, art galleries, and the occasional mescal bar.

This isn’t to say that downtown L.A. is Xanadu with bike lanes. The area still has enough character to be considered gritty by all but the most disaffected hipster. But corporate sterilization (think Times Square) hasn’t happened here. Yet.

What has happened here is art—and lots of it. Visual, culinary, and musical artists have moved downtown in droves, helping to reshape the area into a bastion of creativity and commerce. These days, you don’t have to walk far in downtown L.A. to reach an underground art gallery, a four-star restaurant, or a beautifully restored music venue.

Although many people think downtown is “that place you go for jury duty,” it’s actually the cultural nucleus of Los Angeles. Best of all (and unlike just about anywhere else in the city), you can experience most of it without a car. Join us now, for a (mostly) walking tour of downtown L.A.’s cultural revolution.

Dining in Little Tokyo If the downtown dining scene is on fire, then Little Tokyo is the kerosene and matches. Spread out over just a few city blocks, Little Tokyo is home to some of the hottest restaurants in the city. The area has always been a solid bet for adventurous eaters seeking authentic Japanese donburi or ramen, but many of the newer establishments cater to a more Western palate. Why? Adjacent to Little Tokyo, in the recently christened Arts District, a number of warehouses have been converted into lofts and live/work spaces. This (relatively) affordable housing has attracted thousands of new residents to the area, and they’re constantly on the lookout for new sources of sustenance. Here is a handful of our favorite places.

1. Café Dulce Café Dulce serves coffee from Verve, Stumptown, and other socially responsible roasters, and its brews go great with the essential bacon doughnut. Or try the Hong Kong–style milk tea with the custard-filled green-tea doughnut. 134 Japanese Village Plaza Mall. 1-213-346-9910.

2. The Spice Table The Spice Table is a Southeast Asian–inspired gem serving up dishes like beef rendang and kon loh mee in a space that feels more New York than L.A. But the true revelation here is chef Bryant Ng, who grills melt-in-your-mouth satay on a wood-burning hearth. 114 S. Central Avenue. 1-213-620-1840.

3. Lazy Ox Canteen At Lazy Ox Canteen, Chef Perfecto Rocher coaxes sublime flavors from ingredients that are occasionally bizarre but always fresh (the roasted bone marrow with horseradish is uncommonly delightful). 241 S. San Pedro Street. 1-213-626-5299.

4. Wurstküche Twenty-four taps of German and Belgian beers accompany Wurstküche's selection of sausages that range from the mundane (bockwurst) to the insane (rattlesnake and rabbit with jalapeños). Share a large order of crisp Belgian fries. 800 E. Third Street. 1-213-687-4444.

5. Flying Pig Café Originally launched as a food truck by Le Cordon Bleu alum Joe Kim, the Flying Pig now has a brick-and-mortar place to go with its mobile one. The pork-belly bun is most talked about, but the duck fried rice is life-changing. 141 S. Central Avenue. 1-213-621-0300.

6. Daikokuya It isn’t new, but Daikokuya is so beloved by locals that it earns a place here through sheer public enthusiasm. Specializing in tonkatsu-style pork ramen, the restaurant often has lines that stretch out the door. It’s worth the wait. 327 E. First Street. 1-213-626-1680.

Hot Tip: Those who worry about finding parking downtown should know that Little Tokyo has numerous lots, many of which feature reduced flat rates after 5 or 6 p.m. The parking map on the Little Tokyo Community Council’s website has a comprehensive list.

Art in Chinatown 4/12/13 10:37 PM To the northeast, the stately charms of Little Tokyo give way to the lively energy of Chinatown. Brash and bustling, the area is a sensory thrill. In fact, there are enough sights, sounds, and smells here to keep one’s senses occupied for the next decade. But nestled in this hub of stimulation is a small pocket of quietude called Chung King Road. The 500-foot pedestrian alley in West Plaza, bordered by vintage Chinese architecture, is home to some of the most relevant, cutting-edge art galleries on the West Coast. Occupying storefronts that stood derelict and abandoned not long ago, these galleries come alive every few Saturdays when there’s an art opening. Art in Chinatown To the northeast, the stately charms of Little Tokyo give way to the lively energy of Chinatown. Brash and bustling, the area is a sensory thrill. In fact, there are enough sights, sounds, and smells here to keep one’s senses occupied for the next decade. But nestled in this hub of stimulation is a small pocket of quietude called Chung King Road. The 500-foot pedestrian alley in West Plaza, bordered by vintage Chinese architecture, is home to some of the most relevant, cutting-edge art galleries on the West Coast. Occupying storefronts that stood derelict and abandoned not long ago, these galleries come alive every few Saturdays when there’s an art opening.

1. Charlie James Gallery The Charlie James Gallery moved from Seattle to downtown L.A. in 2008 and is now housed in a converted gift shop. Its focus is on post-pop, conceptual pieces, like Steve Lambert’s provocative “Capitalism” project, which uses electric signs to prompt a public discourse on the subject. 969 Chung King Road. 1-213-687-0844.

2. Automata The performance art at Automata is far-out, fascinating, weird, and engaging. Past offerings have included a puppet show about the aftermath of the Tulsa Race Riots of 1921. But don’t be intimidated by the avant-garde nature of the space. There’s a message amid the madness—and it’s generally worth hearing. 504 Chung King Court. 1-213-819-6855.

3. Fifth Floor For art that can’t be found anywhere else, Fifth Floor is overflowing with stuff you never even knew you wanted. Pick out a rug shaped like a steak—or earrings made out of Japanese milk cartons! The artfully angular space, spartan and full of light, reflects owner Robert Apodaca’s background in architecture. 502 Chung King Court. 1-213-687-8443.

4. Pepin Moore Gallery At Genevieve Pepin and John Ryan Moore’s gallery, you’ll most likely see something that will blow your mind, from the phosphorescent chrysanthemums of Emilie Halpern to the deconstructed movie posters of Bobbi Woods. It’s also got probably the coolest basement in Los Angeles. 933 Chung King Road. 1-213-626-0501.

5. Sabina Lee Gallery The Sabina Lee Gallery is a wonderfully austere space—though bright and airy—where the focus is on art rather than atmosphere. Exhibitions range from the spectacular (Ik-Joong Kang’s “Things I Know” installation) to the sublime (contemporary butoh dance from Japanese master Oguri). 971 Chung King Road. 1-213-620-9404.

Hot Tip: Although most of the galleries have regular hours, Chung King Road on an opening night offers the most intense experience. Individual gallery websites are the best sources to find out when the next event is being held. Or visit Chinatown Los Angeles’ website.

Designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, Walt Disney Concert Hall is an architectural gem in downtown L.A.

Music in the Historic Core and Bunker Hill It’s only fitting that what was once the most culturally significant neighborhood in Los Angeles is finally reemerging as an epicenter for the arts. Along Broadway, in the city’s Historic Core, is the nation’s largest collection of antique movie palaces. Many of them have fallen into disrepair, but others have been gloriously restored. They can be hard to spot, often sandwiched between run-down souvenir shops and discount-clothing stores, but they’re worth a trip downtown.

Nearby Bunker Hill boasts some of the most iconic performance spaces in the country, including the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and the Walt Disney Concert Hall, the shiny, curvy home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. The L.A. Phil, led by the exuberant Gustavo Dudamel, may well be the city’s greatest cultural asset.

1. Walt Disney Concert Hall Designed by Frank Gehry, the Walt Disney Concert Hall is an architectural masterpiece. Inside, the space is as close to acoustic perfection as you can get, an ideal showcase for the auditory fireworks of the L.A. Phil and other performing groups. The one-acre public park on the third level offers views of the San Gabriel Mountains and the Hollywood sign. 111 S. Grand Avenue.

2. REDCAT Located inside the Walt Disney Concert Hall, the Roy and Edna Disney/CalArts Theater is an intimate space where the spotlight shines on the cutting edge of the arts. REDCAT offerings range from improvised piano recitals to theremin performances. Come early to check out the gallery, often showcasing an artist’s first major solo exhibit in L.A. or the U.S. 631 W. Second Street.

3. Zipper Concert Hall 4/12/13 10:37 PM The Zipper Concert Hall is one of L.A.’s underappreciated gems. With approximately 400 seats, it’s a cozy venue, perfect for smaller ensembles whose melodies might be swallowed up by, say, the Walt Disney Concert Hall. The Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra—dubbed “America’s finest” by music critic Jim Svejda—performs here regularly. 200 S. Grand Avenue.

4. The Edison Situated in the basement of the 1910 Higgins Building—home to L.A.’s first electrical power plant—the vibe at this always-lively nightclub is Industrial of the arts. REDCAT offerings range from improvised piano recitals to theremin performances. Come early to check out the gallery, often showcasing an artist’s first major solo exhibit in L.A. or the U.S. 631 W. Second Street.

3. Zipper Concert Hall The Zipper Concert Hall is one of L.A.’s underappreciated gems. With approximately 400 seats, it’s a cozy venue, perfect for smaller ensembles whose melodies might be swallowed up by, say, the Walt Disney Concert Hall. The Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra—dubbed “America’s finest” by music critic Jim Svejda—performs here regularly. 200 S. Grand Avenue.

4. The Edison Situated in the basement of the 1910 Higgins Building—home to L.A.’s first electrical power plant—the vibe at this always-lively nightclub is Industrial Revolution meets Moulin Rouge. Musical acts rotate, but the Edison’s occasional burlesque shows make for unforgettable evenings. The cocktails here are cleverly named and meticulously crafted. 108 W. Second Street.

5. Grand Performances Every great city should have an outdoor concert series that’s free to the public. L.A. has several, but Grand Performances, held every summer in California Plaza, has a real feeling of community spirit, as people from all over the city come out to enjoy an eclectic lineup that last summer included a Dirty Dancing dance-along and an accordion festival. 350 S. Grand Avenue.

6. Historic Theaters Back before Hollywood was Hollywood, downtown was the place to watch a movie or catch a vaudeville show in L.A. In fact, the area once constituted the largest theater district in the country. But when Sid Grauman (of Chinese Theatre fame) opened the Egyptian Theatre in Hollywood, the downtown exodus began.

The best way to experience these historic movie palaces is as part of a tour, since even the restored ones don’t offer much in the way of regular performances. Most recently, the band Wilco played at the Los Angeles Theatre, while reality TV shows such as American Idol and America’s Got Talent have broadcast from the Orpheum. Perhaps, as the downtown area continues to come back to life, these grand vestiges of the city’s past will, too.

Million Dollar Theater. 307 S. Broadway. Los Angeles Theatre. 615 S. Broadway. 1-213-629-2939. The Orpheum. 842 S. Broadway. 1-877-677-4386.

Hot Tip: One of the Los Angeles Conservancy’s weekly walking tours is a great way to get up close and personal with the movie palaces mentioned above. Better yet, the conservancy’s “Last Remaining Seats” events allow participants to experience live entertainment or watch a movie in one of these historic theaters.

Writer Josh Jenisch lives in L.A. and works downtown.

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