DIAMOND GRIT-IMPREGNATED TWEEZERS: a POTENTIALLY DESTRUCTIVE GEMOLOGICAL TOOL by John I
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Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System
Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness: Categories of the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System This booklet summarizes the relationship of Finish, Culet Size, and Girdle Thickness to the GIA Cut Grading System for round brilliant diamonds. It is intended to help members of the jewelry trade better understand the attributes of diamond appearance, and how those attributes are evaluated within the GIA Cut Grading System. Finish—Polish and Symmetry In the GIA Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant To determine the relationship between finish and overall diamonds, finish (for Polish and Symmetry features) is cut quality, GIA conducted extensive observation testing factored into the final overall cut grade as follows: of numerous diamonds using standardized lighting and viewing conditions. Observations of diamonds with • To qualify for an Excellent cut grade, polish and comparable proportions, but differing in their polish and symmetry must be Very Good or Excellent. symmetry categories, were analyzed to determine the effects of finish on overall cut appearance. In this way, • To qualify for a Very Good cut grade, both polish GIA found that a one grade difference between the other and symmetry must be at least Good. aspects of a diamond’s cut grade and its polish and • To qualify for a Good cut grade, both polish and symmetry assessments did not significantly lower a symmetry must be at least Fair. trained observer’s assessment of face-up appearance, and could not be discerned reliably with the unaided eye— • To qualify for a Fair cut grade, both polish and e.g., polish and/or symmetry descriptions of Very Good symmetry must be at least Fair. -
The Chemistry of Diamond Rings
THE CHEMISTRY OF DIAMOND RINGS Diamond rings are synonymous with engagements; diamond itself is an form (allotrope) of carbon, but other chemical elements can impact on its appearance. Here we look at ‘the 4 Cs’ and their chemistry links, as well as some of the metallic elements that help to make up the ring itself. DIAMOND CUT DIAMOND CARAT 0.25 Ct 0.50 Ct 0.75 Ct 1.00 Ct 1.50 Ct 2.00 Ct 4.1 mm 5.2 mm 5.8 mm 6.5 mm 7.4 mm 8.2 mm SHALLOW IDEAL DEEP Top: weight in carats; Bottom: approximate diameter in millimetres. Diamonds not shown to scale, but are in proportion to each other. The cut of a diamond affects how well it reflects light. Diamond carat measures mass; one carat is equal to two Too shallow or too deep and the reflection of light is poor, hundred milligrams. Diameters are approximate, as they so the diamond seems to sparkle less. vary depending on the cut of the diamond. DIAMOND COLOUR DIAMOND CLARITY RING COMPOSITION WHITE GOLD Au 75% Pd 10% Ni 10% Zn 5% Rh PLATE D → F G → J K → M N → R S → Z F → IF VVS1/2 VS1/2 SI1/2 I1/2/3 ALMOST FAINT VERY LIGHT LIGHT COLOURLESS FLAWLESS OR VERY VERY VERY STERLING SILVER COLOURLESS YELLOW YELLOW YELLOW SLIGHTLY INTERNALLY SLIGHTLY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED INCLUDED FLAWLESS INCLUDED INCLUDED Ag 92.5% Cu 7.5% Pt TRACE Ge TRACE Zn TRACE POTENTIAL ELEMENTAL IMPURITIES GAINED DURING DIAMOND GROWTH 7 5 1 14 15 28 27 YELLOW GOLD Compositions given are NITROGENN BoronB HYDROGENH Sisilicon PHOSPHORUSP NiNickel Cocobalt TYPE Ia TYPE Ib TYPE IIa TYPE IIb approximate for a typical 0–0.3% N 0–0.05% N 0% N B impurities Au 75% Cu 12.5% Ag 12.5% alloy, and can vary slightly (clusters) (diffuse) Most diamonds have some imperfections. -
Download Course Outline for This Program
Program Outline 434- Jewellery and Metalwork NUNAVUT INUIT LANGUAGES AND CULTURES Jewelry and Metalwork (and all fine arts) PROGRAM REPORT 434 Jewellery and Metalwork Start Term: No Specified End Date End Term: No Specified End Date Program Status: Approved Action Type: N/A Change Type: N/A Discontinued: No Latest Version: Yes Printed: 03/30/2015 1 Program Outline 434- Jewellery and Metalwork Program Details 434 - Jewellery and Metalwork Start Term: No Specified End Date End Term: No Specified End Date Program Details Code 434 Title Jewellery and Metalwork Start Term No Specified End Date End Term No Specified End Date Total Credits Institution Nunavut Faculty Inuit Languages and Cultures Department Jewelry and Metalwork (and all fine arts) General Information Eligible for RPL No Description The Program in Jewellery and Metalwork will enable students to develop their knowledge and skills of jewellery and metalwork production in a professional studio atmosphere. To this end the program stresses high standards of craftship and creativity, all the time encouraging and exposing students to a wide range of materials, techniques and concepts. This program is designed to allow the individual student to specialize in an area of study of particular interest. There is an emphasis on creative thinking and problem-solving throughout the program.The first year of the program provides an environment for the students to acquire the necessary skills that will enable them to translate their ideas into two and three dimensional jewellery and metalwork. This first year includes courses in: Drawing and Design, Inuit Art and Jewellery History, Lapidary and also Business and Communications. -
Preliminary Investigation of Purple Garnet from a New Deposit in Mozambique
GIT GEMSTONE UPDATE Preliminary Investigation of Purple Garnet from a New Deposit in Mozambique By GIT-Gem testing laboratory 11 May 2016 Introduction In March 2016, a group of Thai gem dealer led by Mr. Pichit Nilprapaporn paid a visit to the GIT and informed us about a new garnet deposit in Mozambique, that was discovered near the western border with Zimbabwe. They also displayed a large parcel of rough and a few cut stones claimed to be the material found in this new deposit (Figure 1). According to the stone’s owner, these garnet specimens were unearthed from an unconsolidated sediment layer, just a few meters below ground surface. This brief report is our preliminary investigation on the interesting vivid purple garnet from the new deposit in Mozambique. Figure 1: Mr. Pichit Nilprapaporn (center), the stone’s owner, showing a large parcel of purple gar- net roughs claimed to be from a new deposit in Mozambique to the GIT director (left). The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization) 140, 140/1-3, 140/5 ITF-Tower Building. 1st - 4th and 6th Floor,Silom Road, Suriyawong, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand Tel: +66 2634 4999 Fax: +66 2634 4970; Web: http://www.git.or.th; E-mail: [email protected] 11 May, 2016 Preliminary Investigation of Purple Garnet from a New Deposit in Mozambique 2 Samples and Testing Procedure The stone’s owners donated some specimens (one 6.10 ct oval-facetted stone and 13 rough samples weighing from 3.83 to 9.43 cts) to the GIT Gem Testing Laboratory for studying. -
HIGHLIGHTS and BREAKTHROUGHS Sapphire, A
1 HIGHLIGHTS AND BREAKTHROUGHS 2 Sapphire, a not so simple gemstone 3 F. LIN SUTHERLAND1* 4 1Geoscience, Australian Museum, 1 William Street, Sydney, NSW 2010, Australia. 5 *E-mail: [email protected] 6 Abstract: Sapphire is a gemstone of considerable reach and is much researched. It still delivers scientific surprises, as exemplified by a 7 recent paper in American Mineralogist that re-interprets the origin of needle-like rutile inclusions that form “silk” in sapphires. 8 Understanding of variations in sapphire genesis continues to expand. Keywords: Sapphire, inclusions, trace elements, genesis 9 Sapphire as a gem variety of corundum has wide use in the gem trade as one of the more historically valuable colored gem stones 10 (CGS) and is mined from a great variety of continental gem deposits across the world. A masterly compendium on this gemstone and its 11 ramifications is recently available (Hughes 2017). As a gem, sapphire ranges through all the colors of corundum, except where 12 sufficient Cr enters its α-alumina crystal structure and causes the red color of the variety ruby. Sapphire, as a key pillar in a wide 13 economic network of gem enhancing treatments, jewelry and other manufacturing enterprises, has elicited numerous scientific and 14 gemological enquiries into its internal nature and natural genesis and subsequent treatments. A further use of sapphire as a synthetic 15 material with a great variety of purposes also has triggered a proliferation of detailed studies on its growth, properties and other element 16 substitutional effects (Dobrovinski et al. 2009). Even with this vast range of studies, this apparently simple gemstone still yields 17 controversies and breakthroughs in understanding its genetic formation. -
Star of the South: a Historic 128 Ct Diamond
STAR OF THE SOUTH: A HISTORIC 128 CT DIAMOND By Christopher P. Smith and George Bosshart The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was deter- mined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain pat- terns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photolumines- cence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. arely do gemological laboratories have the from approximately 1730 to 1870, during which opportunity to perform and publish a full ana- time Brazil was the world’s principal source of dia- Rlytical study of historic diamonds or colored mond. This era ended with the discovery of more stones. However, such was the case recently when significant quantities of diamonds in South Africa. the Gübelin Gem Lab was given the chance to ana- According to Levinson (1998), it has been esti- lyze the Star of the South diamond (figure 1). This mated that prior to the Brazilian finds only about remarkable diamond is not only of historical signifi- 2,000–5,000 carats of diamonds arrived in Europe cance, but it is also of known provenance—cut from annually from the mines of India. In contrast, the a piece of rough found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazilian finds supplied an estimated 25,000 to Brazil, almost 150 years ago. -
JEWELLERY TREND REPORT 3 2 NDCJEWELLERY TREND REPORT 2021 Natural Diamonds Are Everlasting
TREND REPORT ew l y 2021 STATEMENT J CUFFS SHOULDER DUSTERS GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY GEOMETRIC DESIGNS PRESENTED BY THE NEW HEIRLOOM CONTENTS 2 THE STYLE COLLECTIVE 4 INDUSTRY OVERVIEW 8 STATEMENT CUFFS IN AN UNPREDICTABLE YEAR, we all learnt to 12 LARGER THAN LIFE fi nd our peace. We seek happiness in the little By Anaita Shroff Adajania things, embark upon meaningful journeys, and hold hope for a sense of stability. This 16 SHOULDER DUSTERS is also why we gravitate towards natural diamonds–strong and enduring, they give us 20 THE STONE AGE reason to celebrate, and allow us to express our love and affection. Mostly, though, they By Sarah Royce-Greensill offer inspiration. 22 GENDERFLUID JEWELLERY Our fi rst-ever Trend Report showcases natural diamonds like you have never seen 26 HIS & HERS before. Yet, they continue to retain their inherent value and appeal, one that ensures By Bibhu Mohapatra they stay relevant for future generations. We put together a Style Collective and had 28 GEOMETRIC DESIGNS numerous conversations—with nuance and perspective, these freewheeling discussions with eight tastemakers made way for the defi nitive jewellery 32 SHAPESHIFTER trends for 2021. That they range from statement cuffs to geometric designs By Katerina Perez only illustrates the versatility of their central stone, the diamond. Natural diamonds have always been at the forefront of fashion, symbolic of 36 THE NEW HEIRLOOM timelessness and emotion. Whether worn as an accessory or an ally, diamonds not only impress but express how we feel and who we are. This report is a 41 THE PRIDE OF BARODA product of love and labour, and I hope it inspires you to wear your personality, By HH Maharani Radhikaraje and most importantly, have fun with jewellery. -
Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana
Report of Investigation 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg 2015 Cover photo by Richard Berg. Sapphires (very pale green and colorless) concentrated by panning. The small red grains are garnets, commonly found with sapphires in western Montana, and the black sand is mainly magnetite. Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences in Montana Richard B. Berg Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology MBMG Report of Investigation 23 2015 i Compilation of Reported Sapphire Occurrences, RI 23 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ............................................................................................................................1 Descriptions of Occurrences ..................................................................................................7 Selected Bibliography of Articles on Montana Sapphires ................................................... 75 General Montana ............................................................................................................75 Yogo ................................................................................................................................ 75 Southwestern Montana Alluvial Deposits........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Rock Creek sapphire district ........................................................................ 76 Specifi cally Dry Cottonwood Creek deposit and the Butte area .................................... -
Not for Publication United States Court of Appeals
NOT FOR PUBLICATION FILED DEC 20 2018 UNITED STATES COURT OF APPEALS MOLLY C. DWYER, CLERK FOR THE NINTH CIRCUIT U.S. COURT OF APPEALS CYNTHIA CARDARELLI PAINTER, No. 17-55901 individually and on behalf of other members of the general public similarly situated, D.C. No. 2:17-cv-02235-SVW-AJW Plaintiff-Appellant, v. MEMORANDUM* BLUE DIAMOND GROWERS, a California corporation and DOES, 1-100, inclusive, Defendants-Appellees. Appeal from the United States District Court for the Central District of California Stephen V. Wilson, District Judge, Presiding Argued and Submitted December 3, 2018 Pasadena, California Before: D.W. NELSON and WARDLAW, Circuit Judges, and PRATT,** District Judge. * This disposition is not appropriate for publication and is not precedent except as provided by Ninth Circuit Rule 36-3. ** The Honorable Robert W. Pratt, United States District Judge for the Southern District of Iowa, sitting by designation. Cynthia Painter appeals the district court’s order dismissing her complaint with prejudice on grounds of preemption and failure to state a claim pursuant to Federal Rule of Civil Procedure 12(b)(6). On behalf of a putative class, Painter claims that Blue Diamond Growers (“Blue Diamond”) mislabeled its almond beverages as “almond milk” when they should be labeled “imitation milk” because they substitute for and resemble dairy milk but are nutritionally inferior to it. See 21 C.F.R. § 101.3(e)(1). We have jurisdiction under 28 U.S.C. § 1291 and review the district court’s dismissal de novo. Durnford v. MusclePharm Corp., 907 F.3d 595, 601 (9th Cir. -
Black Diamond Pegmatite Custer County, South Dakota
Diamond-drilling Exploration of the Beecher No. 3- Black Diamond Pegmatite Custer County, South Dakota GEOLOGICAL SURVEY BULLETIN 1162-E Diamond-drilling Exploration of the Beecher No. 3- Black Diamond Pegmatite Custer County, South Dakota By J. A. REDDEN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ECONOMIC GEOLOGY GEOLOGICAL SURVEY BULLETIN 1162-E UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, WASHINGTON : 1963 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR STEWART L. UDALL, Secretary GEOLOGICAL SURVEY Thomas B. Nolan, Director For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office Washington 25, D.C. CONTENTS Page Abstract___________._______________________.__ El Introduction.___________________________________ ________ 1 Description of pegmatite units_____________________ _____.-__ 2 Structural geology_________________________________________________ 9 Economic appraisal of the exploration____________________________ 10 References. ___ __________________________ 11 ILLUSTRATION Page PLATE 1. Outline map and sections, Beecher No. 3-Black Diamond peg- matite______________________________________ In pocket TABLE Page TABLE 1. Diamond-drill logs, Black Diamond pegmatite.____________ E3 m CONTRIBUTIONS TO ECONOMIC GEOLOGY DIAMOND-DRILLING EXPLORATION OF THE BEECHER NO. 3-BLACK DIAMOND PEGMATITE, CUSTER COUNTY, SOUTH DAKOTA By J. A. REDDEN ABSTRACT Diamond-drilling at the Beecher No. 3-Black Diamond pegmatite, Ouster County, S. Dak., has provided information that modifies and supplements findings reported previously (Redden, 1959). Two zones not exposed at the surface were found during the drilling: a quartz-albite-perthite-muscovite-pegmatite zone and a quartz-albite-perthite-spodumene pegmatite zone. Previous concepts of the structure near the surface require no significant change, but the new data make possible a greatly improved interpretation of the structure at depth. The most notable change is the recognition of a narrow constriction in the pegmatite at a depth of 60 to 100 feet. -
Distinctive Designs
Distinctive Designs Brides Ring in an Era of Self-Expression by Stacey Marcus Diamond rings have been sporting the hands of newly can elevate a traditional setting to an entirely new level. While engaged women since ancient times. In the mid 1940s, diamonds are always in vogue for engagement rings, millen- DeBeers revived the ritual with its famous “Diamonds Are nials are also opting for nontraditional stones, such as color- Forever” campaign. Today’s brides are blazing new trails by changing alexandrite, beautiful tanzanite, black opal, and even selecting nontraditional wedding rings that express their aquamarine. We are in an age when anything goes, and brides individual style. are embracing the idea of individuality and self-expression!” True Colors says Jordan Fine, CEO of JFINE. “Brides today want to be unique and they don’t mind taking Kathryn Money, vice president of strategy and merchandising chances with colors, settings, and stones. When it comes to at Brilliant Earth agrees: “Customers are seeking products that choosing an engagement ring, natural pink, blue, and even express their individuality and are increasingly drawn towards green diamonds are trending. These precious and rare dia- uniqueness. They want a ring that isn’t like everyone else’s, monds originate from only a few mines in the world, and they which we’re seeing manifested in many different ways, such 34 Spring 2018 BRIDE&GROOM as choosing a distinctive ring setting, using colored gemstones in lieu of a diamond, using a fancy (non-round) diamond, or opting for rose gold.” Money adds that 16% of respondents in a recent survey they conducted favored a colored gemstone engagement ring over a diamond. -
The World of Pink Diamonds and Identifying Them
GEMOLOGY GEMOLOGY as to what dealers can do to spot them using standard, geologists from Ashton Joint Venture found certain indicator The World of Pink Diamonds inexpensive instruments. The commercial signifcance of minerals (such as ilmenite, chromite, chrome diopside, the various types will also be touched on. and pyrope garnet) in stream-gravel concentrates which indicated the presence of diamond-bearing host rocks. and Identifying Them Impact of Auction Sales Lamproites are special ultrapotassic magnesium-rich In the late 1980s, the public perception surrounding fancy- mantle-derived volcanic rocks with low CaO, Al2O3, Na2O colored diamonds began to change when the 0.95-carat and high K2O. Leucite, glass, K-richterite, K-feldspar and Cr- By Branko Deljanin, Dr Adolf Peretti, ‘Hancock Red’ from Brazil was sold for almost $1 million per spinel are unique to lamproites and are not associated with and Matthias Alessandri carat at a Christie’s auction. This stone was studied by one kimberlites. The diamonds in lamproites are considered to be of the authors (Dr. Adolf Peretti) at that time. Since then, xenocrysts and derived from parts of the lithospheric mantle Dr. Peretti has documented the extreme impact this one that lies above the regions of lamproite genesis. Kimberlites sale has had on subsequent prices and the corresponding are also magmatic rocks but have a different composition recognition of fancy diamonds as a desirable asset class. The and could contain non-Argyle origin pink diamonds. demand for rare colors increased and the media began to play a more active role in showcasing new and previously Impact of Mining Activities unknown such stones.