To Properly Worship at the Altar of Taipei's Culinary
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temples of TO PROPERLY WORSHIP AT THE ALTAR OF TAIPEI’S CULINARY CULTURE, ROBYN ECKHARDT ENLISTS INSIDER WISDOM. FOODIES, GET taste READY FOR A PILGRIMAGE. PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID HAGERMAN Taipei 101 towers over the city. Opposite: Noodles doused in pork fat at Yuan Guo. TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM SEPTEMBER 2013 89 09FEAT_Taipei.indd 1-2 08/08/2013 14:19 ivy says, #1 Temples Are Where It’s At Pick any spot at random on a map of Taipei and there’s a good chance you’ll wind up near a temple. In this city of a little more than 2.6 million enthusiastic noshers, lighting a at half stick of incense in an elaborately embellished hall devoted to Matsu, Guanyin, the Tiger God or any of hundreds of other deities is as central to daily life as breakfast, lunch past 11 on and dinner. Which explains the symbiotic relationship between worship and victuals. a Friday If you want to find good food, go to a temple area,” Ivy says. “Temples are bustling places, so in Taipei’s early days this is where fresh markets set up.” Markets attracted morning, prepared food sellers, who parked their stalls near the sources of their fresh ingredients. Though these days many almost every chair in Taipei’s Shanghai Long Ji Restaurant of Taipei’s temples are dwarfed by high rises, they continue is occupied. While the mostly middle-aged and elderly to anchor pockets of prodigious eats. customers peruse menus, red-shirted waitresses shuttle There’s no better proof of this than Wuchang Road, small plates of room temperature dishes like drunken pig where a lively city god temple sits just across the street feet, red-cooked river prawns, and tofu skin “noodles” from Café Astoria (a half-century-old coffee shop and mixed with blanched mustard greens and edamame from bakery where Ivy and I chatted over walnut-studded the front display counter to Formica-topped tables, marshmallows and iced coffee). The street, near Taipei pausing occasionally to bellow orders in the direction of Main Station, is home to scads of restaurants and cafés, and the kitchen. When bowls of cai fan (steamed rice threaded on any day but Mondays—when many markets, restaurants with stems of baby bok choy), platters of stews and stir- and vendors close—its sidewalks are packed with sellers of fries, and tureens of steaming soup begin arriving in the produce, teas, boiled sweet potatoes and taro and sweets Above: Find iced douhua, silky bean curd with ginger syrup, at the hawker-food haven off Wuchang Road. Below: The touchstone dining room, the clatter of chopsticks against porcelain like mochi and peanut brittle. Several strides west of Café for Taiwan’s famous beef-noodle soup, niurou mian, is at the decades-old, grease-stained Laopai Niurou La Mian Da Wang. joins the cacophony of voices bouncing off walls and Astoria is a portal to hawker food heaven, an alley of ceiling. Amid all the joyful, noisy eating, Ivy Chen nearly vendors selling fruits, cold jellies and iced douhua (silky has to shout to be heard. bean curd with ginger syrup and various toppings) that “This is real beef, not tenderized like many restaurants dead-ends at another, longer lane lined with purveyors of do. A little chewy, but you can taste the meat,” she says, steaming noodle soups, braised meats and stir-fries. pointing with her chopsticks at a stir-fry of beef It is deep in this alley that I find my touchstone for matchsticks, jade scallion leaves and fresh red chilies. niurou mian, Taiwan’s famous beef- noodle soup. Laopai Petite, with a conspiratorial smile and eyebrows that shoot Niurou La Mian Da Wang is a decades-old, grease-stained up when she’s discussing good things to eat, Tainan native corner shop fronted by a cauldron big enough to bathe in, Ivy Chen is a 56-year-old cooking instructor and food and one of the few establishments open to the elements. writer who doesn’t hesitate to pass judgment. “This rice is That means no air-conditioning—and the alley is an no good. It’s too soft!” she snorts as I, wallowing in blissful inferno during summer months. But I would gladly suffer ignorance, shovel in mouthfuls of the offendingcai fan. through a thousand sweat-drenched sittings over a serving “Food just cannot be delicious without fat!” she crows, of Laopai’s ropey hand-pulled noodles immersed in slipping a spoon into a bowl of tender soy-stewed pork ribs cinnamon and star anise-touched beef broth bobbing with and baby yam bathed in glossy mahogany sauce. rafts of tender meat. The only way to better a bowlful is to I’m in Taipei for five days, charged with sussing out the add every condiment on the table—ginger-and-garlic city’s dining scene, and this lunch with Ivy is the first full slurry, Sichuan-style chili flakes in oil and chopped meal of my trip. It’s not my first visit so I’m not unfamiliar preserved mustard greens—and to accompany it with with the territory. But Taipei is a sprawling metropolis, and thick-skinned, boiled dumplings spilling Chinese chives the capital of a place whose food—regional Chinese and and pork. Japanese specialties, native island food and innumerable combinations and permutations of all of the above—defies easy description. Open for business round the clock and home to limitless epicurean offerings, from humble street food to white-tablecloth fare, Taipei inspires a frantic, kid-in-a-candy-story quest to eat it all. Now. So with limited time on the ground, I seek direction. Ivy Chen, a foodie of strong opinions, is just the person to provide it. TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM SEPTEMBER 2013 91 09FEAT_Taipei.indd 3-4 08/08/2013 14:19 I would gladly suffer through a thousand sweat-drenched sittings over Laopai’s hand-pulled noodles in beef broth bobbing with rafts of meat At hot pot hot spot Yuan Guo, the vibe is familial and the welcome warm. 94 SEPTEMBER 2013 TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM 09FEAT_Taipei.indd 5-6 08/08/2013 14:19 late weekday lunch, pandemonium reigns at the standing- only sushi and sashimi bar, whose roped-off entrance is hidden behind a clutch of mostly youngish Taiwanese ivy says, #2 customers waiting, assigned numbers in hand, to be Seafood Rules allowed in. I console myself at the half-empty seafood bar “Our fish is so good, so fresh. How could you visit Taipei with a gluttonous mixed cold plate: a bed of ice mounded and not eat fish?” Ivy asks as we settle our bill at Astoria. with oysters, tuna and yellowtail sashimi, fresh abalone, Gastronomically speaking, one of the best things Taipei prawns, rock lobster halves and two huge crab legs. The has going for it is its location on an island. With more than sea-salty bivalves take well to a squeeze of lime and a dab of 1,500 kilometers of coastline, Taiwan boasts one of the wasabi, but the delicate sweetness of the shellfish demands world’s largest fishing industries; of more salience to the that I leave all accompaniments aside. eater is the fact that its food transport and handling standards are top-notch. The quality of the seafood on display at any wet market in the city is matched only by that ivy says, #3 in Japan. Delicate coral shrimp and clear-eyed, ruddy- Night Markets Are Overrated gilled mackerel, glistening rose-mottled squid and chunks Though Taipei flies well under the radar of many food- of crimson tuna—these constitute visual evidence that the obsessed travelers, its night markets are the stuff of legend. island’s cooks demand the finest. “The simplest I’ve never understood why. preparations are best,” Ivy says. “Try our seafood congee.” Swayed by the hype, four years ago I passed an evening One evening, I follow a recommendation to the eastern at Raohe Night Market in the city’s northeast. The edge of the Ningxia Night Market, near Dihua district, and atmosphere was jovial, with bright lights, loud music and locate no-frills congee joint Dong Shi Xian Zhou in the enthusiastic crowds, but Raohe’s edible offerings left me middle of a row of, well, no-frills congee joints. Behind the ruing time and calories wasted. Night-market food is display of glistening seafood on ice at its entrance, one carnival food. Deep-fried, slathered in salad cream, wildly burly tank-topped man labors over a stove set with colored and/or served on a stick, it’s more about fun than individual pans of congee while another works an adjacent flavor, something to be easily consumed while your senses griddle, frying oyster omelettes and sauteeing laboriously are otherwise occupied. “It’s a shame that Taipei puts so boned and butterfliedshimu yu (milkfish, possibly much energy into promoting its night markets,” Ivy says. Taiwan’s favorite piscine species). “Sure, go once if you want. But don’t spend your nights After ordering one of each—congee, fillet and there.” And why would you, when the city holds so many omelette—I snag one of the five tables on Dong Shi’s other, more delicious nocturnal diversions? cramped ground floor (there’s more seating upstairs) and “Mommy wants you to drink!” cries Mary Lin as she wait. Twenty minutes I wait, but all is forgiven when my arrives at our table of 10 with a tray of thimble-sized congee—Taiwan’s is loose and soupy, Thai khao tom-style glasses, then toasts us by draining her own.