Chhattisgarh Creative Dignity
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CREATIVE DIGNITY KOSA SILK WEAVes VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH INTRODUCTION #CreativeDignity is an unprecedented national movement of India’s leading artisan skill-based development organisations and master artisans in response to the devastating effects of the Covid 19 pandemic on millions of rural artisan manufacturers across India. (Apindra Swain’s art shows mythological figures wearing face masks) RELIEF REHABILITATION REJUVENATION CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 2 kosa silk weaves OF CHHATTISGARH Kosa silk is a special variety of tussar silk found in Chhattisgarh. It is drawn out of the cocoons grown on trees like Saja, Sal and Arjun. The leaves of these native trees are the primary food source of the Tussar larvae. Known the world over for its soft texture and purity, this version of Tussar silk is produced exclusively in India. It has a dull golden brownish sheen and is also available naturally in shades of pale golden, dark honey, orange, fawn, and cream. Tussar culture in India is not only an industry but also a tradition. Along with generating rural employment, it also prevents rural migration. It is noteworthy that adopting of silk culture by tribes conserves the environment by non-cutting and felling of trees because tussar culture is now their way of life. Fig. 1 Kosa silkworm moth VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 3 JALA Weaving technique Following a complex and painstaking process, the delicate silk yarn is extracted out of the cocoon. Weavers of the Dewangan community weave these yarns into saris or lugdas as known by the tribals, using three different techniques Phera, Jala and Khapa. The jala technique is used to weave all-over intricate designs. The jala is an attachment atop a loom consisting of threads which contain the complete series of lifting orders for a design. These threads are attached to their corresponding ends on the warp below which creates a mesh like structure. When each of the jala threads is raised, its corresponding combination of warp ends also get raised, forming a shed through which a weft is passed. Ornamentation of fabrics woven using jala technique is always in extra weft. This technique provides the weavers flexibility and they are able to use their imagination to experiment with various designs. Temple borders as well as motifs of flowers, fish, tortoise, rudraksha, etc are commonly seen in these saris. Fig. 2 Jala Weaving CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 4 (Extreme Left) Fig. 3 Preperatory process - warp sizing; (Above) Fig 4. Undyed Kosa silk yarn; (Left) Fig 5 Winding of yarn VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 5 SELECT Pick the products you’re interested in using this cat- alogue. Make note of the quantity, size and colours. Shop & PLACE ORDER Once your selection is confirmed, please share your selected product code with the artisan along with quantity of chosen products. Also share your billing Support & delivery address for your invoice. PRAKASH KUMAR 7748961003 PAY Pay using bank transfer, NEFT, Google pay or even Paytm. You’re directly paying to the artisan you’re buying from, therefore the method STATE BANK OF INDIA depends on them. BRANCH: CHANDRAHAINI RECIEVE CHANDRAPUR Once the payment is received by the artisan, your A/C NO: 20424059045 product will be packed and dispatched by the arti- san. Cost of packing and dispatch will be at actuals. IFSC CODE: SBIN0012132 CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 6 ABOUT THE COMMUNITY The Dewangan community is spread over Chhattisgarh as well as the southern states of Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. They are split into various sub- castes such as Koshtas and Padmashalis and each sub-caste has its own beliefs and idols. Dewangans based in the districts of Champa and Chandrapur in Chhattisgarh are skilled in weaving Kosa silk. Members of this caste claim to have descended from the sage, Devala and are followers of Lord Shiva. The men of the community are engaged in weaving while the women are adept at dyeing and spinning. Many of the weavers are organised as cooperative societies. Mankeshwari Bunkar Sahkari Samiti based in Chandrapur is one such Fig. 8 A Panika weaver on his pit loom society that supports Kosa silk weavers. Fig. 6 Prakash ji on his loom VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 7 Fig. 7Jala Weaving CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 8 (Left) Fig. 8 Process of winding the yarn; (Right) Fig. 9 Jala weaving VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 9 PRODUCT RANGE Handwoven Tussar/Kosa Silk Saris Pure silk saris handwoven using the jala weaving technique. The heritage weave has a characteristic look and feel. A diverse range of traditional as well as contemporary designs, colours and textures have been experimented with. CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 10 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI01A_BLAK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI01B_GREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI01C_TRQU CHG_02_TUSSARSARI01_BLUE SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 4662/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 11 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI02A_GREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI02B_YELO CHG_02_TUSSARSARI02C_PRPL CHG_02_TUSSARSARI02D_PINK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI02_PINK SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 8190/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 12 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03A_YELO CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03B_OFWT CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03C_BLUE CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03D_GRPNK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03E_PINK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03F_BLPCH CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03G_MINT CHG_02_TUSSARSARI03_GREN SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 6489/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 13 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI04A_NTROR CHG_02_TUSSARSARI04B_NTRPK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI04C_NTRDGREN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI04D_NTRMRN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI04_NATLGREN( SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 4032/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 14 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05G_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05F_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05E_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05D_ NTRPCH NTROLV NTRMGNT NRTBLU CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05C_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05B_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05A_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05H_ NTRBRN NTRBLC NTRRED NTRGRN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI05_NATLBLAK SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 5607/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 15 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI06A_BLUE CHG_02_TUSSARSARI06B_BRWN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI06C_OFWHT CHG_02_TUSSARSARI06D_BLCK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI06_RED SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 6804/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 16 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI07A_BGPRL CHG_02_TUSSARSARI07B_BLORG CHG_02_TUSSARSARI07C_OFWT CHG_02_TUSSARSARI07D_GRYPL CHG_02_TUSSARSARI07E_GRYPNK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI07_GREY SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 7560/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 17 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI08A_GREN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI08B_NTRL CHG_02_TUSSARSARI08C_GREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI08D_YLOW CHG_02_TUSSARSARI08_TURQ SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 5103/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 18 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI09A_BLUE CHG_02_TUSSARSARI09B_BROWN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI09C_PINK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI09D_MGNTA CHG_02_TUSSARSARI09E_GREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI09F_OLIVE CHG_02_TUSSARSARI09_NATLSEGREN SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 5619/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 19 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI010A_PINK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI010B_GREEN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI010C_PRPL CHG_02_TUSSARSARI010D_BTRSCTCH CHG_02_TUSSARSARI10_REDYLW SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 7119/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 20 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI011A_ONIONPINK CHG_02_TUSSARSARI011B_LIGHTGRN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI011C_GREEN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI011D_GLDN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI011_YELW SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 3780/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 21 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI012A_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI012B_GREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI012C_ MGENTA DRKBLUE CHG_02_TUSSARSARI012D_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI012F_RED MAROON CHG_02_TUSSARSARI012_BLUE SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 7056/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 22 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013A_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013B_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013C_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013D_ ONIONPNK PEACH TURQS CHARCOLGREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013E_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013F_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013G_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013H_ RYLBLUE LITBLUE GREY MAUVE CHG_02_TUSSARSARI013_RUST SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 6469/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 23 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014A_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014B_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014C_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014D_ WHTBLUE NATLMRN NATLBLK NATLRED CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014E_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014F_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014G_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014H_ BLKBLUE NATLGREEN DRKGRN BROWN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI014_NATLBLUE SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 5090/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 24 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI015A_OLIV CHG_02_TUSSARSARI015B_GREEN CHG_02_TUSSARSARI015C_RED CHG_02_TUSSARSARI015D_GREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI015_OLIV SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 7875/- VOICES FROM CHHATTISGARH Page 25 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016A_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016B_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016C_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016D_PRPL NTRL MEHNDI TRQU CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016E_BLUE CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016F_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016G_RED CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016H_ LTPINK GREY CHG_02_TUSSARSARI016_ORNG SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: Handwoven Tussar Silk PRICE: INR 5418/- CREATIVE DIGNITY Page 26 CHG_02_TUSSARSARI017A_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI017B_ CHG_02_TUSSARSARI017C_ BLACKRED PINKORG BEIGERED CHG_02_TUSSARSARI017_PINK SIZE: 6.3m x 45” (including blouse piece) MATERIAL: