AEGAEUM JOURNAL ISSN NO: 0776-3808

HANDLOOM IN : AN OVERVIEW

Shruti Sudha Mishra*

ICSSR Doctrol Fellow, Dept. of Business Administration, University, Odisha, . [email protected]

Dr. A. K. Das Mohapatra**

Professor Dept. of Business Administration, , Odisha, India. [email protected]

Volume 8, Issue 8, 2020 http://aegaeum.com/ Page No: 134 AEGAEUM JOURNAL ISSN NO: 0776-3808

HANDLOOM IN ODISHA: AN OVERVIEW

Abstract

Handloom is an ancient cottage industry. In Odisha hand-woven fabrics have existed since beyond the reach of memory. This sector involves large number of artisans from rural and semi-urban areas, most of which are women and people from economically disadvantaged groups. Some of the strengths of this industry are availability of cheap and abundant labour, use of local resources, low capital investment, unique craftsmanship in manufacturing of the products and increasing appreciation by international consumers. It is important to note that despite such unique characteristics, the industry comprises a meager proportion of Indian exports in global market, thus calling for efforts to promote and channelize the offerings of the industry to tap its hidden potential. Therefore the present study has been undertaken with an aim to discuss the history of handloom in context to Odisha, its cultural importance, and contribution of handloom to the economic development of the weaving community of Odisha.

Keywords: Odisha, handloom, weavers, economic development

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1: Introduction

The glory and cultural vastness of Indian handloom industry has always been a topic of great discussion. Among all the beautiful handlooms having their regional importance, Odisha handloom is the one chosen for the present study. This study has been undertaken with an aim to discuss the history of handloom in context to Odisha, its cultural importance, and contribution of handloom to the economic development of the weaving community of Odisha.

Textile of Odisha is a reflection of its cultural ethos with intricate weaves giving it an identity of its own. The thread work, motifs and vibrant colours make them rich and desirable to wear and flaunt by the admirers. ‘Odisha ’ also known as “Bandha of Odisha”, is a resist dyeing technique. Since 2007, the “Bandha of Odisha” has been geographically identified. It is a process of tie-dying the wrap and weft threads, so that designs on the loom prior to weaving can be created. Because of its design process, it has been called “poetry on loom”. This process of weaving has remained speciality of Western and Eastern region of Odisha, produced by community groups called Bhulia, Kostha Asni and Patara. In it is woven in Barapalli, , Jhiliminda, Mahalkata, Singhpalli, Sonepur, Patabhadi, Sgarpali, Tarabha, Birmaharajpur, Subalaya, Kendupali, Jaganathpali and Kamalapur of and Sonepur district, are some of the prominent ones where these art of weaving is practised. Some of the popular designs are: 1. Sambalpuri Ikkat – Reflecting the bandha style of craft. Sambalpuri fabrics range from geometric patterns to landscape, potrates and other motifs such as sankha(shell), chakra(wheel) and variety of phula(flower).

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2. Bomkai Cottan – Woven by the adept artisans of Sonepur districts, Bomkai is a handloom fabric that has an attached GI tag and is also called the “Sonepuri” fabric. Bomkai sarees are quite popular among connoisseurs and are must-haves for an enviable saree collection. 3. Berhampuri Paata – Also called “Phoda Kumbha”, Berhampuri Paata too boasts of a GI tag and is famous for its temple shaped designs along the border and pallu portion. This paata has another distinction; it is draped around Lord , Lord Balabhadra and Devi Subhadra in Jagannath Temple. 4. Paata – Khandua paata is noted for the text of eteched on it. Traditionally red or orange in colour, this colour are procured naturally from sal trees. This fabric too, is a registered GI and originated in and Maniabandha. 5. Kotpad Cotton – Woven by the tribes of Kotpad village in Koraput, this fabric with a GI tag is renowned for being dyed organically. Vegetables are used to obtain the required colours with black and maroon being the major dyes. 6. Habaspuri – Kondha weavers of Chicheguda in interwine magic with Habaspuri, one of the major cotton-based textiles of Odisha with fish, flower and temple motifs. It has also been registered under GI. 7. Saptapar/Pasapali – Celebrated for its prominent double ikat checkerboard pattern. Saptapar is famously known as “Pasapalli”, attributed to in Odisha. An intricate pasaa (chessboard) pattern in contrasting colour is its most striking feature.

Western Odisha extends from the Kalahandi district in the South to the Sundargarh district in the north- west. Districts of Sambalpur, Bargarh, Nuapada, Bolangir and Sonepur are also included in Western Odisha. Its boundless geographical area, showcase a great degree of cultural importance among the mass. The traditional Sambalpuri saree in its cotton and versions is a captivating fabric from the tribal belt of Odisha. Sambalpur- in the state of Odisha, India is famous for its Sambalpuri variety of cotton and silk sarees, using Ikat patterns or the tie-dye method in their making. The fabric silk has lustre, strength, smoothness and soft feel, plus its elasticity and desirable quality to acquire most colours and shades making it all the more appealing. Silk is soft, smooth, airy and very comfortable for all-day wear, apart from the grandeur that it provides. The Sambalpuri saree is made from cotton, silk, or tussar woven on a handloom. It is very popular among saree lovers across the country. Varieties of Sambalpuri saree includes Sonepuri, Saptapar (pasapalli), Sachipar, Udiaan-taraa, Panchavati, Bomkai, Barpalli, Baptaa and Paradaa sarees, all of which are popular. These sarees are named after their place of origin and commonly known as “Paata”. Paintings on tussar portray Mathura Vijay, Rasallila and Ayodhya Vijay get their inspiration from Raghurajpur paintings. A unique method of tie-dye known as “Bandha” is used to weave Sambalpuri sarees. These saree’s possesses fast colours; therefore, the older is the saree brighter is the colour. Apart from sarees western Odisha handloom also showcase some masterpiece in form of bed sheets, dhotis and dress materials.

2: Contribution of Handloom in Rural Economy Development of the Weaving Community in Odisha:

Rural Economic Development is a sub set of development. Development means opening up something which is latent. Generally the term development implies a change that is desirable. But the desirableness depends on time, place, culture and societal objectives. It is impossible to think of a universally

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acceptable definition of development. The term rural development means overall development of rural areas, to improve the quality of life of rural people. It includes the development of agriculture and allied activities, village and cottage industries, socioeconomic infrastructure, community services and facilities and the human resources in rural areas. It is a multidimensional concept. This term may be used as a phenomenon, as a strategy and as a discipline. Whatever it may be, for true meaning of rural development, at least three basic elements should be considered. These are: 1. Basic necessities of life – It includes food, clothes, shelter, basic literacy, health care, etc. 2. Self respect – Absence of self respect indicates lack of development. 3. Freedom – It includes political freedom, economic freedom and freedom from slavery. In a nut shell we may say that, rural development is a continuous process leading to sustainable improvement in the quality of life of rural people, especially the poor. The primary economic activity in the rural areas is mostly Agriculture. And it is also true that agriculture alone is not sufficient to improve the overall development of the state’s economy in general and in particular rural areas. Many economists and social scientists argue in favour of the development of labor intensive industries, more specifically rural cottage industries along with the development of agriculture. Handloom is one of the labour intensive industries and capital employed in this industry is low. More significantly it is true that these industries are run by the weaker section of the society. They are able to operate in a productive and profitable way if some measures are taken from the part of central and state government. Handloom sector plays an important role in the Indian economy in the context of employment generation and the economic development of India. Handloom units are also very important for welfare resources. People can organize these units to increase their income levels and quality of life. So these can help in reducing poverty in the state. According to the 4th All India Handloom Census, the total number of households in Odisha engaged in handloom activities (weaving and allied activities) is 63,223. This is an increase over the 3rd All India Handloom Census where the count was 41,000 (shown in Figure 1). The principal reason behind this increase may be attributed to the success of various initiatives undertaken by the .

Figure 1: Distribution of Handloom Worker Households 70000 60000 50000 40000 Distribution of Handloom 63223 30000 Worker Households 20000 41000 10000 0 2009-10 2019-20

2.1: Handloom workers in Odisha

A broad profile of the handloom workers in Odisha has been drawn hereunder (a) by type of workers, (b) by nature of engagement, (c) by gender, and (d) by social groups as discussed below

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(a) By type of workers:

As per All India Handloom Census 3rd and 4th, Figure 2 shows the number of adult handloom workers based on the type of work they are involved in, i.e., weaving activities and allied activities. During 2009-10 number of weavers in Odisha was 49,022 which increased to 53,472 during 2019-20. Again during 2009-10 number of allied workers was 54,136 which increased to 64,364 during 2019-20. This shows that there is an increase of handloom weaving activity in the state. Figure 2: Distribution of adult handloom workers by type of workers 70000 64364 60000 53472 54136 49022 50000 40000 2009-10 30000 2019-20 20000 10000 0 Weavers Allied Workers

(b) By nature of engagement: The weaving activity in Odisha is carried in two ways. For some weavers it is a full time activity whereas for some it is a part time activity. Generally weavers having a secondary economic activity which could more profitable then weaving have kept weaving as a part time activity. Figure 3 shows an increase of weaving activity in both full time and part time categorizes. Figure 3: Distribution of handloom workers by nature of engagement

100000 87092 77556 80000 Distribution of Handloom Workers by Nature of 60000 Engagement 2009-10 40000 25602 30744 Distribution of Handloom 20000 Workers by Nature of 0 Engagement 2019-20 Full Time Part Time

(c) By gender: Handloom is family activity where every members of the family are involved in the weaving and allied activities. Figure 4 shows the distribution of total handloom population based on gender. In 2019-20 it could be noted that Government of India included transgender into their survey. In Odisha there are 29 transgender involved in weaving activities. Here is also an increase in the number of male and female weavers from 2009-10 to 2019-20.

Figure 4: Distribution of total population of handloom weaver households by gender

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70000 60000 Distribution of Total 60167 57640 52004 51154 Population of 50000 Handloom Weaver 40000 Households by 30000 Gender 2009-10 Distribution of Total 20000 Population of

10000 Handloom Weaver 29 Households by 0 Gender 2019-20 Male Female Transgender

(d) By social groups: Out of the total weavers who have been enumerated in the census survey, the highest number of handloom workers belong to Other Backward Caste depicting that handloom particularly belongs to the minority group. Scheduled Tribe comes next followed by Scheduled Caste and Others. Figure 5 shows that there is an increase in number of the weavers in different social groups in 2019-20 than in 2009-10.

Figure 5: Distribution of handloom worker households by Social Groups

45000 40000 41584 35000 33472 Distribution 30000 of Handloom 25000 Worker

20000 Households

15000 by Social 9439

7936

10000 5512 Groups 2009- 4264

5000 1286 10 413 0 Other Backward Scheduled Caste Scheduled Tribe Others Caste (OBCs) (SCs) (Sts)

2.2: Socio-economic status of weavers A broad profile of the socio-economic status of the handloom workers in Odisha has been drawn here under (a) by type of dwelling unit, (b) by ownership of dwelling unit, (c) by level of education, (d) by employment status, and (e) by membership under co-operative societies as discussed below:

(a) By type of dwelling unit: Figure 6 shows the dwelling condition of the weavers of Odisha. It can be seen from the table that there is improvement in dwelling type during 2019-20 than in 2009-10. Number of weavers residing in pucca house has increased from 10,917 to 16,673, whereas semi-pucca house has increased from 8020 to 14,835 and kuchha house has increased from 21,746 to 31,715 in 2009-10 and 2019-20 respectively.

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Figure 6: Distribution of handloom household by types of Dwelling Unit

35000 31715 30000 25000 21746 Types of Dwelling 20000 16673 Unit 2009-10 14835 15000 10917 Types of Dwelling 10000 8020 Unit 2019-20 5000 0 Kuchha Semi Pucca Pucca

(b) By ownership of dwelling unit: Figure 7 shows there is an increase in ownership of dwelling unit of ‘owned’ category from 39,715 to 62,216 during 2009-10 and 2019-20 respectively. This depicts that the socio-economic condition of the weavers of the state has improved considerably during the last decade through handloom, as a primary economic activity.

Figure 7: Distribution of handloom household by Ownership of Dwelling Unit 70000 62216 60000 Ownership of 50000 Dwelling Unit 39715 2009-10 40000 Ownership of 30000 Dwelling Unit 20000 2019-20 10000 714 763 254 244 0 Owned Rented Others

(c) By level of education: As already mentioned handloom is an activity primarily associated with the minority group of the society so education or literacy rate becomes much more important for the weavers to understand the welfare schemes and policies of Government. Awareness about the scope of different avenues that are available for the weavers comes from education and understanding. Figure 8 show that there is an increase in education level of the weaving community in 2019-20 rather than in 2009-10. This also shows that there is improvement in the socio-economic condition of the weavers due which children of the weaving families are willing to study more.

Figure 8: Distribution of Adult Handloom Workers by Level of Education

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35000

30000 25962 27129 33318 22132 21581 25000 20564 18978 20000 18162 Distribution of

Adult 15000 12110

Handloom 7376 10000 7192 Workers by 3157 2160

5000 1159 Level of 0 Education (No. of Weavers) 2009-10

(d) By employment status: The workers engaged under master weavers/private owners and under institutions can be termed as hired or contract workers. The workers reporting to have worked independently in handloom activities can be treated as self-employed. Independent workers account for 69.27 % of the total workforce, and have systems whereby they procure the raw material themselves and undertake the marketing of finished products. All the risks associated with the business are borne by them. In most cases, independent workers have small operations, the profit from which is also very small. Employments under institutions account for a small percentage (0.31%) of the total workforce, and are almost nonexistent. Institutional presence is not uniform across the state either, although there are many handloom development programmes that are supposed to be channeled through them. From the Figure 9 it can be seen that private owners in 2019-20 did not exist whereas institutions such as SHDC and KVIC participation has improved from 2009-10 figures. This implies that Government involvement in welfare activities has improved over the decade but still there is a long way to go to cover all the weavers in the state under government schemes.

Figure 9: Distribution of Handloom workers by Employment Status

80.00% 70.00%

54.78% 69.27% 60.00% Distribution of 50.00% Handloom 40.00% 27.26%

24.46% Workers by

30.00%

13.07% Employment

20.00% 9.94%

4.76% Status 2009-10 0.27% 0.08%

10.00% 0.02% 0.04% 0.00%

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(e) By membership under Co-operative societies:

In the above Figure 9 the employment status of the weavers showed maximum number of weavers working independently. Other than this another form of institution that is prominent is the Co- operative society. Figure 10 shows the 27,135 households are members of co-operative societies, which have increased from 19,661 during 2009-10. This shows the importance of co-operative structure in the State. One of the largest co-operative society in the state is Sambalpuri Bastralaya Handloom Co-operative Society Ltd. Still membership in cooperative societies, which can protect the rights of weavers and facilitate access to development programs, is low.

Figure 10: Distribution of handloom households by Membership under Co-operative Societies

30000 25000 20000 15000 27135 Member of Co-operative 10000 19661 Societies 5000 0 2009-10 2019-20

2.3: Economic Profile of the Weavers

The economic profile of the handloom household is of special interest, as it highlights the feasibility of handloom work as an economic activity in the current situation, and highlights areas where the government needs to step in to support the occupation and economic needs of the workers. A broad profile of the handloom workers in Odisha has been drawn here under (a) by income from all sources per month, (b) by purpose for taking loan, and (c) by major sources of loan as discussed below:

(a) By income from all sources per month: According to All India Handloom Census 2009-10 the average earnings per annum in rural areas was ₹ 30,264 and in urban areas was ₹ 32,416. The total contribution of handloom to total household income was 75.47% in rural areas and 69.26% in urban areas. Figure 11 shows handloom household income from all sources per month. According to the survey the 82.06% of household earn less than ₹ 5000, which amounts to ₹ 60,000 per annum. Whereas 14.94% of household earn between 5001- 10,000 and 2.72% of household earn between 10,001 – 15,000. This shows the economic status of the weaving communities in Odisha have improved over the years.

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Figure 11: Distribution of handloom household by income from all sources per month

90.00% 82.06%

80.00% 70.00% Distribution of 60.00%

50.00% 40.00% handloom

30.00% 14.94% 20.00% household by 2.72% 0.18% 10.00% 0.04% 0.03% 0.01% 0.01% income from 0.00% all sources…

(b) By purpose of taking loan: Further from the Figure 12 it is clear that the number of indebted household has decreased from 10,345 in 2009-10 to 3498 in 2019-20. Again non-handloom purpose of taking loan has also considerably decreased. Thus it is clear from the survey that the weaving community is now being gradually able to become financially and economically stable in comparison to the last decade.

Figure 12: Indebtedness and their Distribution by Purpose for Taking Loans

12000 10345 Indebtedness and 10000 their Distribution by Purpose for 8000 Taking Loans 2009- 5826 10 6000 Indebtedness and 3498 their Distribution 4000 29012540 by Purpose for 1618 Taking Loans 2019- 2000 855 103 20 0 Indebted Handloom HouseholdsPurpose- HandloomNon-Handloom Both

(c) By major sources of loan:

Figure 13 shows that commercial institutions have always remained a prime source for extending financial support to the weaving community. But it is important here to note that government source of funding came into picture during 2019-20 which did not exist during 2009-10 census survey. Other forces like SHGs and Co-operatives also came into forefront during 2019-20. These are good indicators showing increased role of Institutions in providing financial assistance to the weaving community. Another side of this survey shows decrease in overall number households in taking loan

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from any sources, this implies that the slowly the weaving community is gaining financial stability through handloom, as a primary economic activity.

Figure 13: Distribution of Handloom Weaver Households by Major Sources of Loan

3000 Distribution of 2474 2500 Handloom

Weaver 2000 Households by 1404 1500 Major Sources of

966 Loan (%) 2009-10 Distribution of

1000

Handloom

418 360 326

278

500 253 Weaver 191 143 127 112 58 20 18 14 Households by 0 Major Sources of Loan (%) 2019-20

2.4: Usage of looms and Production

A detailed usage of looms and production of handloom products by the handloom workers in Odisha has been drawn here under (a) by looms per household, (b) by type of loom, (c) by purpose of usage of loom, (d) by average days worked per weaver and allied weaver, (e) by usage of various types of yarn, (f) by production of major fabrics, and (g) by major source of sale:

(a) By looms per household:

Figure 14 shows the distribution of looms which has increased over the years. During 2009-10 number of working looms was 36,732, whereas in 2019-20 it became 43,935. Again in 2009-10 idle looms was reported to be around 2845 but there is no record of idle looms in 2019-20. Instead it shows in 2019-20 survey there were 2773 handloom households without loom. This could be due to the unavailability of looms to these families who work as daily wage earners under other weavers.

Figure 14: Distribution of Looms by Handloom households

50000 43935 40000 36732 Distribution of Looms by 30000 Households 2009- 10 20000 Distribution of Looms by 10000 Households 2019- 2845 2773 20 0 Working loom Idle loom Without loom

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(b) By type of loom:

Figure 15 shows distribution of looms by type of loom used. As previously discussed there are many type of looms. In India pit looms and frame looms are the most common type of looms used for weaving. But in Odisha, pit looms are most common type of loom used by the weavers. From the table it is clear that there is an increase in number of looms from 2009-10 to 2019-20.

Figure 15: Distribution of Looms by Type

35000

30000 29585 30752 Regional Distribution

25000 of Looms by Type 2009-10

20000 16800 Regional Distribution 15000 of Looms by Type 9545 10000 2019-20

5000 353 92 73 0 0 Pit Loom Frame Loom Pedal Loom Other

(c) By purpose of usage of loom:

Figure 16 shows that during 2019-20 the purpose of looms were limited for commercial purpose only. Whereas during 2009-10 looms were also used for domestic purpose. This implies that now looms are fully commercialized, every finished product is weaved for the purpose of sale. This could be due to increased market competition or increase in sale or increase in demand of handloom products.

Figure 16: Distribution of Looms by Purpose of Usage

50000 45000

40000 43935 35000 33687 Purpose of Usage 30000 (Looms) 2009-10 25000 20000 Purpose of Usage

15000 (Looms) 2019-20 10000 2131 5000 914 0 Commercial Domestic Both (d) By average days worked per weaver and allied weaver:

As per All India Handloom Census, the average days of engagement in Odisha for weavers are 259 days and for allied workers it is 255 days. Whereas during 2009-10 it was 249 days for weavers and for allied workers it was 222 days. Figure 17 shows the increase in number of working days. It can be said that weaving is a continuous process, which needs lots of hard work and patience. According to the reports a weaver weaves around 5.23 mtr of cloth on an average per day.

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Figure 17: Distribution of handloom household by Average Days worked per weaver and allied worker.

270 259 260 255 249 250 Average Days Per Weaver 240 230 222 Average Days Per Allied 220 Worker 210 200 2009-10 2019-20

(e) By usage of various types of yarn:

Figure 18 shows the use of major yarns in production process and there increase in usage from 2009- 10 to 2019-20. It could be noted here that during 2019-20 survey, the use of , Viscose Blends, and others started, this shows diversification and customization of handloom products, and increase in demand of the products.

Figure 18: Distribution of Weaver Household by Using Various Type of Yarn

30000

7943

25000 2

20000 16100

12035 15000

8504 8219

10000 7530

5338

3142 1472

5000 1346 969 967 706 657 376 214 141 35 13 0 Cotton (1-20)Cotton (21-40)CottonCotton (41-80) (aboveViscose 80) BlendsMuga SilkEri SilkMulberryOthers TussarSilk (Wool, Silk Zari, Polyester, Jute)

Distribution of Weaver Household by Using Various Type of Yarn (%) 2009-10

(f) By production of major fabrics:

Figure 19 shows the major fabrics produced in the state. It can be seen that Saree is the major product produced followed by Dhoti/Lungi/Angavastram and Dress materials/Suiting/Shirting. The increase in number of household shows an increase in sale of the handloom product rather than the sale during 2009- 10

Figure 19: Distribution of Weavers households Producing Major Fabrics in the State

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45000 40000

35000 38507 30000 27076 25000

20000

15000

10000 4075 3710 2881 2151 1500 632 358 330 292 223 186 132 5000 47 35 0

Distribution of Weavers Households Producing Major Fabrics in the… Distribution of Weavers Households Producing Major Fabrics in the…

(g) By major source of sale:

The sale of handloom products is the main concern point for every stake holder associated with the handloom sector. Because of the intermediaries the profit margin of the weavers becomes less. Therefore the less would be the number of intermediaries more will be the profit margin for the weaver. Figure 20 shows maximum household are selling their products in local market and to master weavers. This unregulated markets or Haats could not safe guard the interest of the weavers; again master weavers take a lion share of the profit thus only giving a meager wage for the labour that a weaver had put into the product. Other avenues like exhibition, e-commerce, and export needs to be explored for a more globalised market and customers.

Figure 20: Distribution of handloom household by major source of Sale of their Major products

50.00 40.00 41.53 28.67 30.00 27.10

20.00 Distribution of

10.00 1.69 0.84 0.09 0.08 handloom 0.00 household by major source of sales of…

3: Conclusion:

Handloom unit possess a tremendous potential to create large scale employment opportunities due to their labour-absorbing character. As handloom units are labour intensive, these units have a scope for employment in a massive scale. This is a great significance for the state like Odisha, which has labour surplus economy.

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Thus the paper purposefully deals with the economic status of the weaving community of the state. From the discussion it is clear that over the decade the socio-economic condition of the weaving community has improved being handloom as a primary economic activity. The contribution of handloom in developing the economic condition of the weavers of Odisha and in particular Western Odisha has been large and sustainable in a competitive market.

References

http://www.indianhandloomscluster-dchl.net/Sonepur/Index.asp

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/63174717.cms?utm_source=contentofinterest&utm_mediu m=text&utm_campaign=cppst

http://www.sambalpuribastralaya.co.in

http://www.orissalinks.com/orissagrowth/topics/others/sambalpuri-sarees

http://www.business- standard.com/search?type=news&q=Orissa+Identifies+8+Handloom+Products+For+Gi+Registration

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=82291

http://www.parliamentofindia.nic.in/lsdeb/ls13/ses2/2422129902.htm

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