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KAYAKING TO LES ECREHOUS ISLANDS All atSea ou can always rely on the good old traffic is restricted to a maximum of BBC. About a week before The Other 15mph. What a joy. Ken Livingstone, YHalf and I were due to travel to please take note. Jersey, Neil Oliver and the Coast team popped up on the TV with a Channel Islands As you pedal along, meandering through special and a taste of what we might lanes and pretty villages, there’s plenty of expect. We were intrigued. Unlike Neil, time to muse on Jersey’s old Norman- however, a quick, greased-up cross-Channel French placenames and road signs. It all training swim was not on our agenda! adds up to an appealing mixture of British home-from-home certainties and We had lined up plenty of other activities. stimulating continental sophistication. The two of us love the outdoor life. So, The variety and quality of the food here whilst soaking up the commanding and underlines this happy cultural co-existence. expansive views overlooking St Aubin’s Bay from the balcony of the lovely Cristina Once you reach the end of the old railway Hotel, we planned how to best use every line, you’re rewarded by views of Corbière precious, fresh-air filled hour on this jewel Lighthouse, one of Jersey’s most of an island. recognisable and photographed spots. When we arrived the narrow causeway out to the Helmets on, legs pumping, we were soon lighthouse was semi-submerged, waiting for travelling by bike. Sure, Jersey’s narrow low tide to link it once more to the island. It hedge-framed roads are easy to drive was a sight that gave us our first indication around. But nothing beats the wind-blown of the extraordinary tidal range around freedom of gambolling along under your Jersey, something that we would experience own steam. In fact, we travelled ‘in the for ourselves over the following days. tracks of steam’, crunching through the gears along the old railway line that once Huge 40ft tides – that’s about 13m – ran from St Helier to La Corbière, linking make Jersey’s coastline a constantly the wide, breezy promenade along St expanding and contracting wonderland, to Aubin’s Bay to the rocky south-western be enjoyed and explored, but only with corner of the island. caution and respect for the power of the sea. Fortunately when we took to the water BBC TV sports reporter Hazel Irvine isn’t the kind of girl If you’ve ever battled your way around we were in the hands of an expert, the London on a bicycle, or indeed any major dynamic Derek Hairon who runs Jersey who likes to sit still. With her equally energetic Other Half, city, you’ll certainly appreciate the non- Kayak Adventures. A paddling Pied Piper, aggressive, stress-free riding available in Derek guided us through one of the most she spent an action-packed weekend in Jersey. It almost Jersey. You’ll find a large network of memorable days I’ve ever spent anywhere designated ‘Green Lanes’ where vehicular in the world. wore her out… 32 pureJersey 1 book online at www.jersey.com 33 LES ECREHOUS, OFF JERSEY’S NORTH-EAST COAST All at Sea ‘What a weird and wonderful sight these tiny islands are. At high tide all that’s visible of Les Ecrehous are a handful of rocky outcrops defiantly sitting above the water line.’ WATCHING THE WILDLIFE LANDING ON LES ECREHOUS JERSEY FLAG Leaving the breakwater at St Catherine on a At low tide, things get even better. The Sargassum were languidly going with the bears the official Jersey States ‘Customs All too soon it was time leave this magical (We’re already formulating plans to come sunny, flat-calm early morning we powered surface area of the islands expands by flow of the outgoing tide. House’ sign sculpted into the stone. place. As we loaded the kayaks onto back and play the island’s other six courses.) away on board our ‘mothership’, Equinox, a around 80% as the sea drains away to Captain Dean’s sturdy ‘mothership’ the sea large RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) with Captain reveal a stony, lunar-style landscape and Les Ecrehous lies within virtual touching I couldn’t help but wonder what it would was already engulfing the islands as quickly Then, there was just enough time for a last Dean at the wheel. We were bound for Les spectacular crescent-shaped shingle bank. distance of the French mainland. Indeed feel like to be stranded there at high tide in as it had deserted them. Les Ecrehous really exhilarating blast of salty sea air on board Ecrehous, a granite reef six miles off the fishermen and some French militants an English Channel storm with the waters do stir the imagination. And sitting just a yachtmaster Peter Carnegie’s stunning 42ft north-east coast. So special is this place that We unloaded our kayaks from the RIB and famously mounted a mini-invasion of the rising rapidly around you. A little few inches above the water on a kayak is ocean-going craft, Caprice. Our skipper for I’m almost afraid to say too much about it settled into our sturdy, buoyant little crafts. islands one morning in 1994, determined disconcerting, I shouldn’t wonder. Indeed, surely the best way to experience this a four-hour trip off the southern coast of lest it becomes overrun with visitors and With paddle in hand, we began to explore to wrest them from British sovereignty. as Derek regaled us with tales about the amazing archipelago. Jersey was the amiable Mark Tucker and his loses its magic. the ever-rising and falling waters around They gave up on the idea around lunchtime, islands, I could empathise with one poor crew James. Although I was a little nervous the reef. The Other Half and I are hardly ate and went home. fellow who’d had to lash himself to the In truth, there’s a huge range of outdoor about taking the helm – Caprice is, after What a weird and wonderful sight these Olympic kayaking material but this kind of outside of his hut for survival during a pursuits available in Jersey that will fire your all, a splendid and rather expensive vessel – tiny islands are. At high tide all that’s visible waterborne adventuring was, whilst at Happily this place still feels like a treasured particularly nasty night. adrenaline and get the blood pumping. On Mark patiently showed me the ropes and I of Les Ecrehous are a handful of rocky times energetic, surprisingly straightforward secret that is shared only by those ‘in-the- the vast expanse of white sand at St Ouen’s found myself at the wheel as the yacht outcrops defiantly sitting above the water and very relaxing. Pushing through the know’ from the two nations. Indeed there Fortunately for us the warm, serene Bay we sat down for a while – a little jaded reached out and tilted into a robust wind. line. Upon them nestle a score of small crystal-clear water I was struck by how were as many Tricolours as Union Jacks flying conditions continued as we mounted an by this point, I confess – and watched What a thrilling feeling it was, our mainsail huts, some of simple grey stone, others peaceful a place this is. from the handful of vessels anchored in the afternoon assault in our kayaks on the now scores of wet-suited surfers as they soaked gripped and taut, as we surged through the whitewashed. They were once fishermen’s main lagoon that balmy Saturday afternoon. incoming tide. With Derek’s tuition, we were up the sun and the swell. It was a cool, waves at a healthy eight knots. refuges, which have been passed down Catching the swooping cries of curlews and able to see the outer reaches of the reef by energetic 21st-century Jersey twist on through generations of families. Now oystercatchers, we paddled along the so- After beaching the kayaks on the main forcing our way across much faster-running buckets, spades and knotted handkerchiefs. Talk about a dynamic weekend! The Other they’re used as the ultimate in getaway called ‘Suez Canal’ between islands that island we enjoyed a well-earned picnic lunch streams of rushing, incoming water. Then, Half and I are already carbo-loading in holiday cabins. The scene reminded me of a bear names such as La Marmotiere and Le on the shingle beach and wandered around as we circumnavigated the smaller outcrops We did summon enough energy to squeeze preparation for a return visit… curious collection of Monopoly houses and Blianque Île. We peered down into the on (then) dry land. Moving up and amongst that poked above the tide, several large in a quick and pleasant nine holes of golf at hotels… perched on a bit of real estate that lagoons. Below us long strands of black the little huddle of huts on La Marmotiere seals magically played cat-and-mouse with Wheatlands Golf Course, a venue opened by money just can’t buy. bootlace weed and fronds of pink feathery we came to a tiny main square. A wall still us as we paddled. former Ryder Cup captain Ian Woosnam. 34 pureJersey 1 book online at www.jersey.com 35 Jerseyfile: Activity Island Outdoor Active Pure Adventure Centre Jersey’s newest attraction, based in a There’s a huge range of activities on offer in Jersey. It’s an outdoor beautiful natural valley at Les Ormes Operators Leisure Centre in St Brelade, is kind of place, with good weather, big beaches, great surf and inviting Surfing & Bodyboarding Skiing Jet Kitesurfing Wakeboarding Windsurfing Skiing Water Kayaking Sea Blokarting Coasteering Climbing & Abseiling Rock Sky Diving Karting Flying scheduled to open in May 2008.

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