KAYAKING TO LES ECREHOUS ISLANDS All atSea

ou can always rely on the good old traffic is restricted to a maximum of BBC. About a week before The Other 15mph. What a joy. Ken Livingstone, YHalf and I were due to travel to please take note. , Neil Oliver and the Coast team popped up on the TV with a As you pedal along, meandering through special and a taste of what we might lanes and pretty villages, there’s plenty of expect. We were intrigued. Unlike Neil, time to muse on Jersey’s old Norman- however, a quick, greased-up cross-Channel French placenames and road signs. It all training swim was not on our agenda! adds up to an appealing mixture of British home-from-home certainties and We had lined up plenty of other activities. stimulating continental sophistication. The two of us love the outdoor life. So, The variety and quality of the food here whilst soaking up the commanding and underlines this happy cultural co-existence. expansive views overlooking St Aubin’s Bay from the balcony of the lovely Cristina Once you reach the end of the old railway Hotel, we planned how to best use every line, you’re rewarded by views of Corbière precious, fresh-air filled hour on this jewel Lighthouse, one of Jersey’s most of an island. recognisable and photographed spots. When we arrived the narrow causeway out to the Helmets on, legs pumping, we were soon lighthouse was semi-submerged, waiting for travelling by bike. Sure, Jersey’s narrow low tide to link it once more to the island. It hedge-framed roads are easy to drive was a sight that gave us our first indication around. But nothing beats the wind-blown of the extraordinary tidal range around freedom of gambolling along under your Jersey, something that we would experience own steam. In fact, we travelled ‘in the for ourselves over the following days. tracks of steam’, crunching through the gears along the old railway line that once Huge 40ft tides – that’s about 13m – ran from St Helier to La Corbière, linking make Jersey’s coastline a constantly the wide, breezy promenade along St expanding and contracting wonderland, to Aubin’s Bay to the rocky south-western be enjoyed and explored, but only with corner of the island. caution and respect for the power of the sea. Fortunately when we took to the water BBC TV sports reporter Hazel Irvine isn’t the kind of girl If you’ve ever battled your way around we were in the hands of an expert, the London on a bicycle, or indeed any major dynamic Derek Hairon who runs Jersey who likes to sit still. With her equally energetic Other Half, city, you’ll certainly appreciate the non- Kayak Adventures. A paddling Pied Piper, aggressive, stress-free riding available in Derek guided us through one of the most she spent an action-packed weekend in Jersey. It almost Jersey. You’ll find a large network of memorable days I’ve ever spent anywhere designated ‘Green Lanes’ where vehicular in the world. wore her out…

32 pureJersey 1 book online at www.jersey.com 33 LES ECREHOUS, OFF JERSEY’S NORTH-EAST COAST All at

Sea ‘What a weird and wonderful sight these tiny islands are. At high tide all that’s visible of Les Ecrehous are a handful of rocky outcrops defiantly sitting above the water line.’

WATCHING THE WILDLIFE LANDING ON LES ECREHOUS JERSEY FLAG

Leaving the breakwater at St Catherine on a At low tide, things get even better. The Sargassum were languidly going with the bears the official Jersey States ‘Customs All too soon it was time leave this magical (We’re already formulating plans to come sunny, flat-calm early morning we powered surface area of the islands expands by flow of the outgoing tide. House’ sign sculpted into the stone. place. As we loaded the kayaks onto back and play the island’s other six courses.) away on board our ‘mothership’, Equinox, a around 80% as the sea drains away to Captain Dean’s sturdy ‘mothership’ the sea large RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) with Captain reveal a stony, lunar-style landscape and Les Ecrehous lies within virtual touching I couldn’t help but wonder what it would was already engulfing the islands as quickly Then, there was just enough time for a last Dean at the wheel. We were bound for Les spectacular crescent-shaped shingle bank. distance of the French mainland. Indeed feel like to be stranded there at high tide in as it had deserted them. Les Ecrehous really exhilarating blast of salty sea air on board Ecrehous, a granite reef six miles off the fishermen and some French militants an English Channel storm with the waters do stir the imagination. And sitting just a yachtmaster Peter Carnegie’s stunning 42ft north-east coast. So special is this place that We unloaded our kayaks from the RIB and famously mounted a mini-invasion of the rising rapidly around you. A little few inches above the water on a kayak is ocean-going craft, Caprice. Our skipper for I’m almost afraid to say too much about it settled into our sturdy, buoyant little crafts. islands one morning in 1994, determined disconcerting, I shouldn’t wonder. Indeed, surely the best way to experience this a four-hour trip off the southern coast of lest it becomes overrun with visitors and With paddle in hand, we began to explore to wrest them from British sovereignty. as Derek regaled us with tales about the amazing archipelago. Jersey was the amiable Mark Tucker and his loses its magic. the ever-rising and falling waters around They gave up on the idea around lunchtime, islands, I could empathise with one poor crew James. Although I was a little nervous the reef. The Other Half and I are hardly ate and went home. fellow who’d had to lash himself to the In truth, there’s a huge range of outdoor about taking the helm – Caprice is, after What a weird and wonderful sight these Olympic kayaking material but this kind of outside of his hut for survival during a pursuits available in Jersey that will fire your all, a splendid and rather expensive vessel – tiny islands are. At high tide all that’s visible waterborne adventuring was, whilst at Happily this place still feels like a treasured particularly nasty night. adrenaline and get the blood pumping. On Mark patiently showed me the ropes and I of Les Ecrehous are a handful of rocky times energetic, surprisingly straightforward secret that is shared only by those ‘in-the- the vast expanse of white sand at St Ouen’s found myself at the wheel as the yacht outcrops defiantly sitting above the water and very relaxing. Pushing through the know’ from the two nations. Indeed there Fortunately for us the warm, serene Bay we sat down for a while – a little jaded reached out and tilted into a robust wind. line. Upon them nestle a score of small crystal-clear water I was struck by how were as many Tricolours as Union Jacks flying conditions continued as we mounted an by this point, I confess – and watched What a thrilling feeling it was, our mainsail huts, some of simple grey stone, others peaceful a place this is. from the handful of vessels anchored in the afternoon assault in our kayaks on the now scores of wet-suited surfers as they soaked gripped and taut, as we surged through the whitewashed. They were once fishermen’s main lagoon that balmy Saturday afternoon. incoming tide. With Derek’s tuition, we were up the sun and the swell. It was a cool, waves at a healthy eight knots. refuges, which have been passed down Catching the swooping cries of curlews and able to see the outer reaches of the reef by energetic 21st-century Jersey twist on through generations of families. Now oystercatchers, we paddled along the so- After beaching the kayaks on the main forcing our way across much faster-running buckets, spades and knotted handkerchiefs. Talk about a dynamic weekend! The Other they’re used as the ultimate in getaway called ‘Suez Canal’ between islands that island we enjoyed a well-earned picnic lunch streams of rushing, incoming water. Then, Half and I are already carbo-loading in holiday cabins. The scene reminded me of a bear names such as La Marmotiere and Le on the shingle beach and wandered around as we circumnavigated the smaller outcrops We did summon enough energy to squeeze preparation for a return visit… curious collection of Monopoly houses and Blianque Île. We peered down into the on (then) dry land. Moving up and amongst that poked above the tide, several large in a quick and pleasant nine holes of golf at hotels… perched on a bit of real estate that lagoons. Below us long strands of black the little huddle of huts on La Marmotiere seals magically played cat-and-mouse with Wheatlands Golf Course, a venue opened by money just can’t buy. bootlace weed and fronds of pink feathery we came to a tiny main square. A wall still us as we paddled. former Ryder Cup captain Ian Woosnam.

34 pureJersey 1 book online at www.jersey.com 35 Jerseyfile: Activity Island

Outdoor Active Pure Adventure Centre Jersey’s newest attraction, based in a There’s a huge range of activities on offer in Jersey. It’s an outdoor beautiful natural valley at Les Ormes Operators Leisure Centre in St Brelade, is kind of place, with good weather, big beaches, great surf and inviting Surfing & Bodyboarding Skiing Jet Kitesurfing Wakeboarding Windsurfing Skiing Water Kayaking Sea Blokarting Coasteering Climbing & Abseiling Rock Sky Diving Karting Flying scheduled to open in May 2008. Its high-adrenaline features include an seas. And inland, you can go cycling, play golf or get to grips with Active Island Sports !!! exciting high ropes course with three Adventures Unlimited !! different height levels suitable for all the family. There’s also a 330ft ‘Big Zipper’ An Action-Packed adventure sports. We have included some samples from our all-action Atlantic Waves School ! zip wire ride and 40ft vertical parachute Conjuring Kites School ! Weekend activities scene here. For the full picture go to: www.jersey.com descent. Other activities include a Extreme Jersey ! climbing and abseil tower, the ‘King Hazel Irvine and her partner stayed at Gorey Watersports !!! Swing’, a low ropes/problem solving Hotel Cristina, Mont Felard, St Aubin’s Activity Operators Jersey Aero Club ! course, a military-style assault course, Bay, Jersey JE3 1JA. It’s very Active Island Sports, St Brelade’s Bay Jersey Odyssey archery, raft building and orienteering. Jersey Karting ! comfortable and friendly, with beautiful Open All Year. Open all year. Tel 01534 638888 ! terraces and stunning views overlooking Tel 07797 717564 Tel 01534 498636 or 07700 727430 Jersey Kayak Adventures www.pureadventurejersey.com the bay. www.activeislandsports.com www.jerseyodyssey.co.uk Jersey Odyssey !!!!!! Tel 01534 758024 Jersey Sea Sport Centre ! ! !!!!

www.dolanhotels.com Adventures Unlimited, St Martin Jersey Sea Sport Centre, La Haule Slip, Jersey Surf School ! Open all year. by St Aubin’s Village Kite School Jersey ! They Went Offshore with: Tel 01534 873074 or 07797 727503 Open 9am–5.30pm May–mid-September. !! !!!!!!!! Jersey Kayak Adventures, St Clement www.jerseyadventures.com Tel 07797 738180 Pure Adventure Tel 01534 853138 or 07797 www.jerseyseasport.com Skydive Jersey ! 853033 Atlantic Waves School of Surfing, Sand, Surf & Sail !

www.jerseykayakadventures.co.uk St Ouen’s Bay Jersey Surf School, Watersplash, Surf & Sun Watersports !!! Open May–September. St Ouen’s Bay Jersey Sailing Tel 01534 744157 or 07797 718150 Open April–September. Tel 01534 851983 or 07797 email: [email protected] Tel 01534 484005 729240 www.cisurf.com www.jerseysailing.com Conjuring Kites Kitesurfing School, St Helier Kite School Jersey They Played Golf at: Open all year. Open April–October. Hotel Cristina Wheatlands Golf Course, St Peter Tel 01534 618548 or 07797 727207 Tel 01534 638888 Tel 01534 888877 email: [email protected] www.pureadventurejersey.com www.wheatlandsjersey.com Extreme Jersey Pure Adventure, St Helier Visitors to the Hotel Cristina never fail They Hired Bikes from: Open all year. Open all year. to comment on the fantastic views Zebra Cycles Tel: 07797 717564 & 07797 736411 Tel 01534 638888 or 07797 721050 from the balconies and terraces. Tel 01534 736556 www.extremejersey.com www.pureadventurejersey.com Overlooking the vista of St Aubin’s Bay, www.zebrahire.com the south-facing hotel offers hours of Gorey Watersports, Grouville Sand, Surf and Sail, St Ouen’s Bay sunshine to be enjoyed in the lush Open daily 10am–5pm July and August. Open all year. Tel 07797 816528 Tel 01534 483707 gardens and outdoor heated pool in the www.goreywatersports.com hotel’s private grounds. Only a couple Skydive Jersey of minutes’ walk from the beach, and Jersey Aero Club, Airport, St Peter Open February–November. just a mile and a half from Jersey’s Open all year. Tel 01534 747410 or 07797 737730 main town St Helier, the Cristina Tel 01534 743990 www.skydivejersey.net provides the perfect setting for guests www.jerseyaeroclub.com Surf ’n’ Sun Watersports, St Brelade’s Bay to explore the island at their own pace. Hotel Cristina Jersey Karting, The Living Legend, St Peter Open May–September. The bedrooms are stylishly furnished in Mont Felard Open March–November. Tel 07797 736411 a bright, modern style that is matched St Aubin’s Bay Tel 01534 485855 email: [email protected] in the thriving brasserie-style Indigo Jersey JE3 8EF www.jerseyslivinglegend.co.je Restaurant with a fresh, light menu Tel 01534 712850 Waterfront Watersports Centre, St Helier that changes daily. Fax 01534 758028 Jersey Kayak Adventures, St Clement Open April–September. email: [email protected] Open all year. Tel 01534 638888 www.cristinajersey.com Tel 01534 853138 or 07797 853033 www.pureadventurejersey.com www.jerseykayakadventures.co.uk 36 pureJersey Jerseyfile: Activity Island

Surfing Clubs Sailing, Fishing and Boat Charters South Coast Cruises, St Helier Drive to Jersey Four days away from just £149 Jersey Bodyboarding Anna II Fishing Trips, St Helier Open April–October. www.jerseybodyboarding.com Available all year. Tel 01534 732466 Tel 01534 888552 or 07797 725301 www.jerseycruises.com Jersey Longboard Club www.fishingjersey.co.uk www.jerseylongboarders.com Stay and Sail, Trinity Channel Charter, St Helier Open all year. Take your car by CONDOR from Weymouth or and enjoy Jersey at its peaceful best. Jersey Surfboard Club Available all year. Tel 01534 869075 or 07797 820701 You’ll like the prices too – for example, four days away from just £149, and that includes taking your www.surfingjersey.net Tel 07797 761902 or 07797 728099 www.jerseystayandsail.co.uk car FREE and a FREE hotel night. Taking your car gives you a door to door service, and you can pack as www.channelcharter.com MUCH as you want. Just one call or click will book it all – stay from two nights to as long as you like. Dive Operators Tarka Sea Trips, St Clement’s Bouley Bay Diving Centre Island RIB Voyages, St Helier Open all year. Open all year. Open all year. Tel 01534 858046 or 07797 728316 Condorbreaks include: Tel 01534 866990 Tel 01534 638888 www.tarkaseatrips.com © Return Fast crossings including www.scubadivingjersey.com www.pureadventurejersey.com your car Visiting Yachtsmen © Sharing a twin or double room at your H2O Sports Ltd, St Helier JerseySailing.com The island’s three yacht clubs all extend a choice of 15 hotels – with breakfast Open all year. Open all year. big welcome to visiting yachtsmen. © Jersey Parking Pack Tel 01534 880934 or 07797 723941 Tel 01534 851983 or 07797 729240 © Condorbreaks holiday information pack www.divejersey.co.uk www.jerseysailing.com The Royal Channel Islands Yacht Club, and island map SHAKESPEARE St Clement ★★★ L’HORIZON St Brelade ★★★★ St Aubin The most southerly hotel in the British Isles, only two miles from Ideally situated alongside the sandy beach, this first class hotel is Prices are per person based on a minimum St Helier, faces the sea and enjoys views along the south coast renowned for its traditional service and superb cuisine where Jersey Sub Aqua Club, St Helier Ocean Discoveries, St Helier Tel 01534 741023 of two adults. Free nights are based on and across to • Award winning restaurant offering table there is a choice of three restaurants • Leisure club comprising d'hote and à la carte menus • Private access to beach • Sun indoor pool, saunas, Jacuzzi, steam rooms and mini-gym • Beauty Open all year. Open all year. email: [email protected] B&B only. Room upgrades and dinner lounge and two sea-facing bars overlooking the patio • Weekly salon (extra cost) • Elegant lounges • Sun terrace with stunning www.jsac.org.uk Tel 07797 742338 supplements apply to the full duration. Manager's reception • Lift • Car park sea views • 24-hour room service • Lift • Car park www.oceandiscoveries.co.uk St Catherine’s Sailing Club, St Martin Book with Confidence ABTA V1290. ADDED VALUE FREE NIGHTS AS INDICATED ADDED VALUE FREE NIGHTS AS INDICATED Prices in £pp based on commencement date Prices in £pp based on commencement date Here are just two of the 15 Jersey TT Divers, St Lawrence Tel 01534 857741 HOL COMM DATE 2 NTS 3 NTS 4 NTS EX NT HOL COMM DATE 2 NTS 3 NTS 4 NTS EX NT Open all year. Raleigh Sailing www.scsc.org.je Breakaway hotels. See our website UP TO 15 MAR 149 149 179 33 UP TO 15 MAR 209 209 269 65 Tel 07797 783183 Open all year. for the full selection. 16 MAR - 21 APR 155 179 179 33 16 MAR - 23 APR 219 219 279 66 22 APR - 23 MAY 165 195 195 37 24 APR - 23 MAY 265 345 345 87 www.ttdivers.co.uk Tel 01534 607910 or 07797 734303 More yachting information overleaf R SUPPLEMENTS (PPPN): DINNER £10, SEA VIEW £5 SUPPLEMENTS (PPPN): DINNER £24, OCEAN VIEW £35 www.raleighsailing.com 38 pureJersey Click on to book – or call 0845 60 33 121 Jerseyfile: Activity Island

Wheatlands Golf Course, St Peter alternative. Please check with your airline Nine-hole golf course established in 1994 before booking to make sure that they will and officially opened by former Ryder Cup carry your bike. Captain Ian Woosnam. Visiting golfers welcome and may compete in ‘open Condor Ferries take bicycles free of charge competitions’ every Thursday May– Tel 0870 243 5140 September. www.condorferries.com Tel 01534 888877 www.wheatlandsjersey.com Cycle Hire Jersey Cycletours, St Aubin Cycling Tel 01534 746780 or 07797 775124 Jersey is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets, email: [email protected] with around 350 miles of roads, byways and lanes to explore. Pedalling is pure Zebra Cycles, St Helier pleasure – especially on those peaceful Tel 01534 736556 Green Lanes and the island’s 96-mile www.zebrahire.com signposted cycle network. For such a small island there’s also a surprising number of Cycling Publications excellent bike shops stocking masses of Please see page 59 for more details. accessories, clothing and spare parts. Most shops can also repair or service your bike. Cycle hire is also available. For more details visit: www.jersey.com/cycling

Bringing Your Own Bike Jersey Tourism has details of establishments that have cycle racks or a safe and secure

St Helier Yacht Club, South Pier set aside for game fishing and coarse clubhouse bar and restaurant. Separate Tel 01534 721307 anglers can fish at Dannemarche and driving range and activity centre including www.shyc.je Millbrook reservoirs. The season runs from miniature golf and laser clay pigeon shooting. June 1st to March 31st. For further Tel 01534 482787 Harbour Information information contact the Jersey Freshwater www.lesmielles.com Golden Sands St Helier has three modern well-equipped Angling Association (tel 01534 861083 marinas catering for a wide range of craft. evenings; email: [email protected]). La Moye Golf Club, St Brelade St Helier Marina is Jersey’s main visiting For the full picture go to: This 18-hole links type course of over marina, with berthing for up to 200 visiting www.jersey.com/fishing 6,500 yards presents a good challenge for For beach-lovers, the Golden Sands yachts, accessible three hours each side of golfers of all handicaps. Features large sand enjoys one of the finest locations of high water. Elizabeth Marina is the island’s Golf hills, pot bunkers, gorse bushes and any hotel in Jersey. Its prime spot in the newest marina with 564 berths ranging It’s advisable to book at all courses to punishing rough. centre of St Brelade’s Bay makes the from 20ft to 65ft. Available to non- avoid disappointment. Please check with Tel 01534 743401 most of Jersey’s sunshine and warm residents on one-, five- and ten-year individual clubs about hiring of equipment www.lamoyegolfclub.co.uk climate, with the shaded crescent- leases. La Collette Basin is Jersey’s deep- and dress code. water marina with access at all states of Les Ormes Golf and Leisure Village, shaped sands being perfect for families the tide. Jersey Recreation Grounds, St Clement St Peter and bathers of all ages, as well as the Jersey Harbours, Maritime House, St Helier Nine-hole course with par three and four Facilities include a 17-bay covered driving more active who can enjoy volleyball Tel 01534 885588 holes. Other facilities include putting range with automatic pop-up tees, practice and a range of water sports. With www.jersey-harbours.com green, crazy golf, bowls, boules, tennis green and bunker. Also a golf and tennis panoramic sea views and the gentle and restaurant. shop, fitness centre, bar/restaurant. sound of the waves, the Golden Sands Fishing Tel 01534 721938 Tel 01534 497000 Jersey’s coastline offers excellent shore www.lesormes.je is great for those who want direct Golden Sands Hotel fishing from rocks, harbours and Longueville Golf Range, St Clement access to the beach. The comfortable La Route de la Baie breakwaters. And the island’s huge tidal Golf range with 25 bays. Tuition and club Royal Jersey Golf Club, Grouville rooms, most boasting balconies and sea St Brelade’s Bay range brings a kaleidoscope of marine life. hire available. The oldest established golf club in Jersey, views, are well designed and, with a Jersey JE3 8EF There are rich fishing grounds in the inshore Tel 01534 519922 with a challenging 18-hole course. Visitors flexible friendly approach, the hotel is Tel 01534 491058 waters too, and boat charter is easy to are welcome 10am–12noon and also perfect for families Fax 01534 499366 arrange. For freshwater anglers, there’s Les Mielles Golf and Country Club, 2pm–4pm, Monday–Friday, and after email: [email protected] good reservoir fly-fishing for trout. Val de St Ouen 2.30pm on weekends. www.goldensandsjersey.com la Mare and Queen’s Valley reservoirs are Eighteen-hole golf course with shop, Tel 01534 854416 40 pureJersey