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COVER in both his fi lms and his life—and With a garment-district pedigree, PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL RIERA Josh Brolin, photographed happily relies on his wife to dress him. uncanny business skill, and labels like STYLING BY DAVID FARBER by Terry Richardson in • BY JOE LEVY Proenza Schouler and Helmut Lang Los Angeles. Brolin wears 800.550.0005 PHOTOGRAPHS BY TERRY RICHARDSON under his stewardship, Andrew Rosen 88 WHAT DID J.D. SALINGER, a Tom Ford tuxedo, shirt STYLING BY GEORGE CORTINA emerges as the most infl uential LEO TOLSTOY, NIKOLA TESLA and tie, and a belt from Boot man in the American fashion industry. AND SARAH BERNHARDT Star L.A. 66 BY JOSHUA LEVINE HAVE IN COMMON? EMINENT BOHEMIANS THIS PAGE Two exceptional families have crafted PHOTOGRAPHS BY TINA BARNEY Swami Vivekananda, the man ©2009 CHANEL Photograph by Jessica an artistic communal living space, who brought yoga to the U.S., Haye and Clark Hsiao reminiscent of the Bloomsbury Group. 80 THE NEW NEUTRALS inspired some of the greatest BY SARA RUFFIN COSTELLO Appearing equally professional and minds of the 20th century. For details see ® PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA HARDY relaxed, the suit of the moment is done Sources, page 94 BY A.L. BARDACH Watch in black high-tech ceramic and 18K yellow gold. Self-winding mechanical movement custom-made by AUDEMARS PIGUET , Inc. J 12 exclusively for CHANEL: CHANEL - AP3125 (40 jewels, 21’600 vibrations/hour). Rotor in black high-tech ceramic with a segment in rhodium-plated 22K yellow gold mounted on high-tech ceramic ball bearings. ® Balance with 8 giromax regulating weights. 60-hour power reserve. April 2012 11 0412_WSJ_TOC_02.indd 11 3/2/12 2:43:50 AM Contents APRIL 16 EDITOR’S LETTER follow him into the zone during a day at the 18 BACK STORY recording studio. 22 MARKET REPORT 36 PARTNERSHIP Lightweight trench coats Ted Danson hired manager and spring’s new bucks. Keith Addis almost 20 years ago to sculpt his Francesco scianna 29 SOAPBOX post-”Cheers” career. Baltimore’s native son, He ended up finding a writer and director perfect match for his John Waters, takes on work to save oceans. today’s shockmeisters and opines on the merits, 40 MAKING IT and failures, of bad taste. Chef Daniel de la Falaise surrendered 32 TRACKED his glamorous life Pharrell is the recording to embrace nature, industry’s most famously farming the land to prolific producer (and create his own line of writer and singer). We sustainable olive oils. “I like rap music. But bragging about being rich to poor people is really off ensive. I want to hear a gangsta rap song about buying a Cy Twombly painting or dating a museum curator.” —JOHN WATERS 56 “SOAPBOX,” P. 29 62 88 29 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE HARDY AMIES ARCHIVE; ADAM GOLFER; SHUTTERSTOCK; TERRY RICHARDSON; ON BROLIN: VINTAGE 501T-SHIRT, LEVI’S AND WHAT BELT, GOES AROUND COMES AROUND. FOR DETAILS SEE SOURCES, PAGE 94 WSJ. Issue 24, April 2012, Copyright 2012, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 866-WSJ-MAGZ (866-975-6249), send email to mag.feedback@wsj. com, or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com. 12 April 2012 0412_WSJ_TOC_02.indd 12 3/2/12 2:43:53 AM Contents APRIL 43 36 66 “I don’t hang out with guys. My father was kind of absentee to some degree, so women have always had the key to life, for me. But I love to work with men. It’s relaxing; guys are simple.” —TED DANSON, “PARTNERSHIP,” P. 36 43 ACCESSORIES 56 THE SHIFT View the extraordinarily Savile Row stalwarts personal and highly such as Turnbull & Asser evocative desks of four and Alfred Dunhill have accomplished men adopted a modernized known for their unique take on classic tailoring— style as well as their and are attracting a accomplishments. new clientele who understand that style is 50 STYLE about the wearer. It takes bravery and pluck to abandon a 96 OPEN SECRET high-salaried position Near Dublin, within the in the corporate world estate of the Earl of to pursue dreams Charlemont, is a grand of teaching. Meet five 18th-century house men who left lucrative in the classical style, careers to be kings an architectural feat of the classroom as whose Grecian details 74 they model this disguise the pleasure spring’s layered looks. palace that lies within. Get a Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal for a weekly fi x of smart style and culture. GET WSJ Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life, REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture, and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www.subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend SATURDAY CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FRANCOIS HALARD; © PARAMOUNT TV/ COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION; EMMA HARDY; TINA BARNEY; SUNGLASSES: RALPH LAUREN; KEYCHAIN: LOUIS VUITTON; WATCH: VINTAGE ROLEX; FOULARD: PRADA; PEN: ASPREY. FOR DETAILS SEE SOURCES, PAGE 94 14 April 2012 0412_WSJ_TOC_04.indd 14 3/5/12 1:41:30 PM Editor’s Letter APRIL A RUGGED LANDSCAPE Leanne Shapton’s view of the coastline near Winslow Homer’s studio in Prouts Neck, Maine. THE AMERICAN MAN WHILE PUTTING TOGETHER THIS ISSUE ABOUT MEN, I kept hearing in my head that headline that ran in “Le Monde” after the tragedy of September 11— “We are all Americans”—and kept thinking instead, “We are all men.” Of course, our commonalities extend beyond our nationality and religion, but I might even venture that they extend beyond our gender. Quality and humanity cross boundaries: Delighting in the writing of M.F.K. Fisher is not limited to foodies, just as the pleasure of NPR’s “Car Talk” is not reserved for gearheads, or the book “Moneyball” for baseball fans. So although we may not all actually be men, we are all, for the most part, interesting, curious people who care about interesting, curious things—like the idea of the American man and the choices he makes. This issue gathers a diverse lineup of fascinating menfolk. From literary luminaries like J.D. Salinger, William and Henry James, and Henry Miller—who all sought spiritual solace from the teachings of Vivekananda, the swami who fi rst brought yoga to our shores—to the multiplatform hip-hop artist Pharrell, possibly the fi rst tough guy to rock an Hermès Birkin. We feature a group of schoolteachers, who after successful careers in business traded in the boardroom for the classroom, to the great benefi t of their students. And Paul Cantelon, a fi lm composer who opens the doors to his eccentrically delightful, Bloomsbury-esque home, where he lives in creative splendor with his wife, a neighboring couple and their children. An interesting man is more than his gender: He is intellect, ferocity, fearlessness, tenderness and grit. Sound familiar? All of us are a work in progress, becoming who it is we strive to be. Deborah Needleman, Editor in Chief [email protected] EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Needleman COPY CHIEF Kate Crane WEB EDITORS Allison Lichter, PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname CREATIVE DIRECTOR Patrick Li CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR Shawn Carney Robin Kawakami GLOBAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado EUROPEAN EDITOR Stephanie Arnold FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Adrienne Gaff ney Rita Konig ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/EUROPE Whitney Vargas PRODUCTION MANAGER Leah Phillips CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Claudio Piovesana PHOTO DIRECTOR Nadia Vellam JUNIOR DESIGNER Alex Konsevick Michael Clerizo, Sara Ruffi n Costello, BUSINESS MANAGER ART DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif FASHION ASSISTANT Jane Chapman Carolina Irving, Joshua Levine, Julie Checketts EXECUTIVE STYLE EDITOR David Farber ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR Joe Levy, Ambra Medda, Charlotte Moss, SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER MARKET EDITOR Andrew Lutjens Alainna Lexie Beddie David Netto, Dana Thomas Jillian Maxwell 16 April 2012 0412_WSJ_Edletter_02.indd 16 3/1/12 5:54:52 PM Backstory APRIL From left: Konrath; Gaff ney; groomer Anna TO SIRS, WITH LOVE p.
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