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62 MASCULINE, DEFINED 74 THE HOMEGROWN in clean neutrals and is comfortably Actor Josh Brolin is gritty and direct— FASHION MOGUL casual without sacrifi cing propriety. COVER in both his fi lms and his life—and With a garment-district pedigree, PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL RIERA Josh Brolin, photographed happily relies on his wife to dress him. uncanny business skill, and labels like STYLING BY DAVID FARBER by Terry Richardson in • BY JOE LEVY Proenza Schouler and Helmut Lang Los Angeles. Brolin wears 800.550.0005 PHOTOGRAPHS BY TERRY RICHARDSON under his stewardship, Andrew Rosen 88 WHAT DID J.D. SALINGER, a Tom Ford tuxedo, shirt STYLING BY GEORGE CORTINA emerges as the most infl uential LEO TOLSTOY, NIKOLA TESLA and tie, and a belt from Boot man in the American fashion industry. AND SARAH BERNHARDT Star L.A. 66 BY JOSHUA LEVINE HAVE IN COMMON? EMINENT BOHEMIANS THIS PAGE Two exceptional families have crafted PHOTOGRAPHS BY TINA BARNEY Swami Vivekananda, the man 20 CHANEL ©2009 Photograph by Jessica an artistic communal living space, who brought yoga to the U.S., Haye and Clark Hsiao reminiscent of the Bloomsbury Group. 80 THE NEW NEUTRALS inspired some of the greatest BY SARA RUFFIN COSTELLO Appearing equally professional and minds of the 20th century. For details see

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0412_WSJ_TOC_02.indd 11 3/2/12 2:43:50 AM Contents APRIL

16 EDITOR’S LETTER follow him into the zone during a day at the 18 BACK STORY recording studio.

22 MARKET REPORT 36 PARTNERSHIP Lightweight trench coats Ted Danson hired manager and spring’s new bucks. Keith Addis almost 20 years ago to sculpt his Francesco scianna 29 SOAPBOX post-”Cheers” career. Baltimore’s native son, He ended up finding a writer and director perfect match for his John Waters, takes on work to save oceans. today’s shockmeisters and opines on the merits, 40 MAKING IT and failures, of bad taste. Chef Daniel de la Falaise surrendered 32 TRACKED his glamorous life Pharrell is the recording to embrace nature, industry’s most famously farming the land to prolific producer (and create his own line of writer and singer). We sustainable olive oils.

“I like rap music. But bragging about being rich to poor people is really off ensive. I want to hear a gangsta rap song about buying a Cy Twombly painting or dating a museum curator.” —JOHN WATERS 56 “SOAPBOX,” P. 29

62 88 29 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE HARDY AMIES ARCHIVE; ADAM GOLFER; SHUTTERSTOCK; TERRY RICHARDSON; ON BROLIN: VINTAGE 501T-SHIRT, LEVI’S AND WHAT BELT, GOES AROUND COMES AROUND. FOR DETAILS SEE SOURCES, PAGE 94

WSJ. Issue 24, April 2012, Copyright 2012, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 866-WSJ-MAGZ (866-975-6249), send email to mag.feedback@wsj. com, or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800-843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.

12 April 2012

0412_WSJ_TOC_02.indd 12 3/2/12 2:43:53 AM Contents APRIL

43 36 66

“I don’t hang out with guys. My father was kind of absentee to some degree, so women have always had the key to life, for me. But I love to work with men. It’s relaxing; guys are simple.” —TED DANSON, “PARTNERSHIP,” P. 36

43 ACCESSORIES 56 THE SHIFT View the extraordinarily Savile Row stalwarts personal and highly such as Turnbull & Asser evocative desks of four and Alfred Dunhill have accomplished men adopted a modernized known for their unique take on classic tailoring— style as well as their and are attracting a accomplishments. new clientele who understand that style is 50 STYLE about the wearer. It takes bravery and pluck to abandon a 96 OPEN SECRET high-salaried position Near Dublin, within the in the corporate world estate of the Earl of to pursue dreams Charlemont, is a grand of teaching. Meet five 18th-century house men who left lucrative in the classical style, careers to be kings an architectural feat of the classroom as whose Grecian details 74 they model this disguise the pleasure spring’s layered looks. palace that lies within.

Get a Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal for a weekly fi x of smart style and culture. GET WSJ Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life, REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture, and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www.subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend SATURDAY CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FRANCOIS HALARD; © PARAMOUNT TV/ COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION; EMMA HARDY; TINA BARNEY; SUNGLASSES: RALPH LAUREN; KEYCHAIN: LOUIS VUITTON; WATCH: VINTAGE ROLEX; FOULARD: PRADA; PEN: ASPREY. FOR DETAILS SEE SOURCES, PAGE 94

14 April 2012

0412_WSJ_TOC_04.indd 14 3/5/12 1:41:30 PM Editor’s Letter APRIL

A RUGGED LANDSCAPE Leanne Shapton’s view of the coastline near Winslow Homer’s studio in Prouts Neck, Maine. THE AMERICAN MAN WHILE PUTTING TOGETHER THIS ISSUE ABOUT MEN, I kept hearing in my head that headline that ran in “Le Monde” after the tragedy of September 11— “We are all Americans”—and kept thinking instead, “We are all men.” Of course, our commonalities extend beyond our nationality and religion, but I might even venture that they extend beyond our gender. Quality and humanity cross boundaries: Delighting in the writing of M.F.K. Fisher is not limited to foodies, just as the pleasure of NPR’s “Car Talk” is not reserved for gearheads, or the book “Moneyball” for baseball fans. So although we may not all actually be men, we are all, for the most part, interesting, curious people who care about interesting, curious things—like the idea of the American man and the choices he makes. This issue gathers a diverse lineup of fascinating menfolk. From literary luminaries like J.D. Salinger, William and Henry James, and Henry Miller—who all sought spiritual solace from the teachings of Vivekananda, the swami who fi rst brought yoga to our shores—to the multiplatform hip-hop artist Pharrell, possibly the fi rst tough guy to rock an Hermès Birkin. We feature a group of schoolteachers, who after successful careers in business traded in the boardroom for the classroom, to the great benefi t of their students. And Paul Cantelon, a fi lm composer who opens the doors to his eccentrically delightful, Bloomsbury-esque home, where he lives in creative splendor with his wife, a neighboring couple and their children. An interesting man is more than his gender: He is intellect, ferocity, fearlessness, tenderness and grit. Sound familiar? All of us are a work in progress, becoming who it is we strive to be.

Deborah Needleman, Editor in Chief [email protected]

EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Needleman COPY CHIEF Kate Crane WEB EDITORS Allison Lichter, PUBLISHER Anthony Cenname CREATIVE DIRECTOR Patrick Li CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR Shawn Carney Robin Kawakami GLOBAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR Brekke Fletcher PHOTO EDITOR Damian Prado EUROPEAN EDITOR Stephanie Arnold FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Adrienne Gaff ney Rita Konig ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/EUROPE Whitney Vargas PRODUCTION MANAGER Leah Phillips CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Claudio Piovesana PHOTO DIRECTOR Nadia Vellam JUNIOR DESIGNER Alex Konsevick Michael Clerizo, Sara Ruffi n Costello, BUSINESS MANAGER ART DIRECTOR Pierre Tardif FASHION ASSISTANT Jane Chapman Carolina Irving, Joshua Levine, Julie Checketts EXECUTIVE STYLE EDITOR David Farber ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR Joe Levy, Ambra Medda, Charlotte Moss, SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER MARKET EDITOR Andrew Lutjens Alainna Lexie Beddie David Netto, Dana Thomas Jillian Maxwell

16 April 2012

0412_WSJ_Edletter_02.indd 16 3/1/12 5:54:52 PM Backstory APRIL

From left: Konrath; Gaff ney; groomer Anna TO SIRS, WITH LOVE p. 50 Bernabe treats Innocent cocktail chatter with a publisher turned schoolteacher INDIA SOCIETY; TODAY Konrath to a trim. gave our editor the idea for a story featuring other men who gave up high-powered jobs for a second career teaching children. Associate editor Adrienne Gaff ney enjoyed the task of actually hunting some down. “I learned so much about their lives,” Gaff ney “Each of the men says, “that I felt like they were close friends.” Photographer received haircuts Andreas Laszlo Konrath adds, “It felt like their appreciation for on set, including everything in life was heightened because of their decision to the man behind quit working in stressful jobs.” the camera.”

“I’ve never seen so many flowers or taken EMINENT BOHEMIANS p. 66 When OFF DUTY columnist Sara Ruffi n Costello in so many colors interviewed Paul Cantelon about the charmed in a contained space.” home he shares with his wife, Angela McCluskey, she was amazed by his life story. “I kept having to check the facts: faith-healing dad, piano- playing child prodigy, amnesia, member of a rock band, classical composer. And that’s just the early years.” Working on the piece inspired Costello, whose own interiors are more classically From left: photographer Emma inclined, “to get some comfortable sofas and Hardy; Cantelon’s home; free up the guest room for creative characters.” Costello; McCluskey and Cantelon.

A HOMEGROWN FASHION MOGUL p. 74 When Joshua Levine fi rst met fashion mogul Andrew Rosen in 2010, he was writing our April 2011 story on Anna Wintour. “I was struck then by his loose-limbed, unselfconscious style,” says Levine. “He was padding around the building in his socks, and From left: Rosen with designers Stacey Bendet slouched deep into his sofa as we spoke. A year later, I came to of Alice + Olivia, and Lazaro Hernandez “Rosen’s“Rosen’s notn looking understand that Rosen is pretty much always like this.” and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler; to buildbuild a photographer Tina Barney; look from Theyskens’ Theory collection; Levine. personalpersonal fi efdom.”

From left: Bardach; Vivekananda; p. 88 THE SWAMI WHO BROUGHT US YOGA statue of Vivekananda Journalist Ann Louise Bardach has spent 10 years so far researching a in Parliament According to biography on Swami Vivekananda, who essentially introduced Vedanta, House in New Delhi. Vivekananda, yoga and Hinduism to America. The evolution of American yoga, “You are not from the spiritual practice Vivekananda intended to the enterprise it is your body.” today, is not lost on Bardach. “Somewhere he must be howling in dismay or amusement that the seed he planted has degenerated into a body-conscious exercise cult with expensive accessories.” Bardach adds, “I’ll take Vivekananda’s word for it that Hatha yoga has GROUP/GETTY GROUP/GETTY IMAGES; © . EKATERINA GARYUK/SHUTTERSTOCK little value beyond physical fi tness.” She walks and hikes instead. N/C; TOP FROM SILJA ROW, MAGG; LEFT: MARIANA BELO; ALAINNA BEDDIE. SECOND N/C; FROM EMMA N/C; GETTY ROW, LEFT: TINA HARDY; FIRSTVIEW; IMAGES. N/C. THIRD BOTTOM BARNEY; ROW: DANNY JOE FROM ROW, ROTHENBERG; COURTESY SCHILDHORN/BFANYC.COM; LEFT: OF VEDANTA

18 April 2012

0412_WSJ_Contribs_01.indd 18 3/1/12 6:40:48 AM On the Cover APRIL

A LITTLE BROMANCE For the cover shoot, Josh Brolin teamed up with photographer Terry Richardson, a fellow son of California, and sparks fl ew

HEN JOSH BROLIN arrived at the studio in Los Angeles to work with Terry Richardson on the pictures in this issue, it was like a family reunion between two long-lost bro- Wthers, even though they’d never met. Both had grown up around L.A., the sons of famous fathers in the fi elds they eventually chose to pursue. And both had played in Cali- fornia punk bands in the ’80s. “We had a lot to talk about and a lot to reminisce about,” Brolin says. Known for his portrayals of villains in movies like “No Country for Old Men,” “American Gangster” and “Milk,” Brolin gets a chance this season to play the hero, both in “Men in Black 3,” alongside Will Smith, and in “The Gangster Squad,” a period piece about the mob’s early days in L.A., which co-stars Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone and Sean Penn. But even for “The Gangster Squad,” he was approached about playing the heavy: Mickey Cohen, BROTHERS IN ARMS Josh Brolin and Terry Richardson chatting before their shoot at Milk Studios in Hollywood. the notorious Jewish mafi a kingpin. “I did a bunch of makeup tests,” Brolin says. “Finally, at the end of the day, I was like: 5-foot-5 Brooklyn Jew. I’m good, but I’m New York City. “She has a lot more talent than my dad not that good.” It was Brolin who convinced Penn, an old and myself, that’s for sure,” he says. He compares her friend, to take the part. talent to his wife’s, calling it “intrinsic” and downplay- Brolin has traveled his own path to stardom, earning ing his own as “more cultivated.” a Best Supporting Actor Oscar nomination for “Milk” For our shoot, Richardson and stylist George Cortina after years of fi lm and TV work. But his Hollywood con- kept things pared down and slightly rugged, refl ecting nections run deep: His father is James Brolin, well known Brolin’s own style. “I’m a jeans-and-fl annel-shirt kind of for his TV work in the ’70s and ’80s, and now married to guy,” he says. “Thank God I have a wife to help keep me Barbra Streisand. His wife of seven years is Diane Lane, clean. If it were up to me, I’d probably wear the same thing an Oscar nominee herself. Even Brolin’s daughter from all week long. And she’ll go, ‘Take that off ,’ and then she his fi rst marriage, Eden, is currently studying acting in grabs another shirt and hands me the deodorant.” And MAN OF STYLE George Cortina Brolin was impressed by Richardson’s has also styled for creativity. “He’s an incredible guy,” “Vogue” Japan he says. “I had a great time with him. and “VV Magazine.”Magazine. Which allowed me to have some fun.” The results speak for themselves. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DAVID SWANSON; N/C; GETTY LESTER COHEN/WIREIMAGE; IMAGES; PARAMOUNT/MIRAMAX/THE JON KOPALOFF/ KOBAL COLLECTION; RON GALELLA/WIREIMAGE

FAMILYFAMIL AFFAIR With wife of seven years, LIKE FATHER, LIKE SON A 15-year-old Josh with his father, James Brolin, Diane Lane (left), his father and in 1983 (above), and in “No Country for Old Men,” in 2007 (right). stepmother,ste Barbra Streisand (above).

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NO SOCKS REQUIRED Preppy bucks debut this spring in a subtle array of colors, from hunter green to dove gray EXHILARATION AT FIRST SIGHT.

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GARDEN OF GOOD AND EVIL At 65, director John Waters is still impish, hilarious and subversive but has also mellowed a bit with age.

SOAPBOX JOHN WATERS On his weird childhood, the sorry style of today’s rebels and the social importance of bad taste

OHN WATERS, THE WRITER AND DIRECTOR who emerged from the midnight At age 65, Waters remains a celebrated fi gure for counterculturists but accepts movie circuit of the 1970s, has earned his status as a social critic. In 13 fea- that his time as a revolutionary has passed. Earlier this year, protestors at Occupy ture fi lms, including “Pink Flamingos” and “Hairspray,” he gleefully presents Baltimore built an encampment they called Mortville, a tribute to the criminal depraved characters undermining a society of squares. enclave depicted in Waters’s fi lm “Desperate Living.” Waters supports them but InJ the seven years since he made his last fi lm, the director has written “Role Models,” declined to join. “I have three homes and a summer rental, and some of my money is a collection of essays about his idols who hurdled over adversity, including Johnny in Wall Street,” he explained. He champions younger fi lmmakers whom he says suc- Mathis, Little Richard and a seedy pornographer. He’s also hunting down funding for ceed in subversion, including Johnny Knoxville and Todd Phillips. At the same time, his next script, “Fruitcake,” a Christmas movie for kids. He lives in Baltimore, his native he reviles “the new bad taste,” which he defi nes as entertainment that tries too hard city and the setting for his fi lms, in a house purchased in 1990. to shock and lacks inventiveness and wit. By John Jurgensen shop online hugoboss.com

Photographs by Adam Golfer April 2012 29

0412_WSJ_Soapbox-Waters_03.indd 29 3/6/12 3:43:58 PM Ideas People SOAPBOX

HEN I WAS A KID, my parents were a little horrifi ed by what I did, but they encouraged me to keep There’s no such thing as exploitation fi lms anymore. uptight because the things I was inter- doing it because I was obsessed, and what else could When Herschell Gordon Lewis made “Blood Feast,” ested in weren’t the proper things for a I do? My movies were very humiliating for them. No the ultra-gory horror fi lm, in 1963, he did it because in six-year-old. It wasn’t, “Isn’t that nice that one said they were good for a very long time. Yet I bor- that moment no studio would ever make something so he Wwants an encyclopedia?” I wanted to look up heroin rowed money from my father, and I paid him back. I was explicit. The underground exists, but it’s on the Internet addiction. Did it say in the Dr. Spock book what to do if doing something. I think they were amazed that I went and nobody can fi gure out a way to make money from it. your child played car accident all day? I don’t think so. around the country and got them shown and got the I’m on the Internet, but it did ruin every business I’m It wasn’t easy to fi nd out what to do with me. budgets back. Even though Vincent in. But there are still fi lmmakers like I used to come home from kindergarten and tell Canby said in the Sunday “New York Gaspar Noé, Lars von Trier and Todd my mom that there was a really weird kid in our class, Times,” “What, did he have faulty “If your kid Solondz, who are really good and and he only drew with black crayons. But that kid was toilet training?” My mother was so comes out of the transgressive and who continue to me. I was creating my own character, I guess. I don’t mortifi ed. I can laugh about it now; surprise me. remember that being traumatic or anything. I learned I don’t know if she does. bedroom and says John Currin uses bad taste in a early that other people weren’t interested in my obses- The kind of bad taste I portrayed he just shut down perfect way. His paintings look like sions. I lived in suburban Baltimore and went to private never achieved wide success, except old masters, but he paints sexual school. They hid those things from you. “Life” magazine for “Hairspray,” and that happened the government, things or weird gay couples. He con- was my key to the outside world—they made beatniks unexpectedly. What America now he should have an fuses you in a beautiful way, which is and Jackson Pollock famous. That’s where I read about exports in culture is also bad taste, outfi t for that.” what art should be. I think Warhol’s [B-movie director] William Castle. It wasn’t until much but a bad taste that tries too hard fi lms are the last thing that will be later that I discovered there was bohemia. to shock. I never tried to top the discovered and will be even as big When I was young there were beatniks. Hippies. graphic end of “Pink Flamingos.” If I as his other art. That’s still to come, Punks. Gangsters. Now you’re a hacktivist. Which had, I wouldn’t be here today. The only way you change when people fi nally have in their homes a way to dis- I would probably be if I was 20. Shuttin’ down anything is to use bad taste to get somebody to accept play video art seamlessly, like they would a painting. MasterCard. But there’s no look to that lifestyle! something they didn’t before. I think higher of my audi- The Warhol fi lms did that style of video art fi rst, and Besides just wearing a bad outfi t with bad posture. ence. That’s why my fi lms don’t make money. they’ll be there forever. Has WikiLeaks caused a look? No! I’m mad about that. The person who does bad taste the best in movies I like rap music. But bragging about being rich to If your kid comes out of the bedroom and says he just today is Johnny Knoxville. The “Jackass” movies are poor people is really off ensive. I want to hear a gangsta shut down the government, it seems to me he should at watched by blue-collar guys with their children. It’s rap song about buying a Cy Twombly painting or dating least have an outfi t for that. Get a look! I’m not judging butt gags for the whole family, and it makes $170 mil- a museum curator. I want to hear about that kind of rich. what they do; I hope they don’t shut me down. lion. That is brilliant. That is anarchy. I don’t know Of course, the worst is having a convertible if you’re I think my parents made me feel safe. They were how he does it. over 20 years old. If you’re 50, please, buy a painting. My audience is younger and younger. I’m proud of that. I believe that tomorrow is always going to be better—I don’t believe my time was better. We saw things nobody will ever see again. But half my friends are dead, too, so there are two sides to that. I don’t hide my age. I think it’s like heroin. Once you start, you can’t stop. That’s my fear—getting touch-ups with needles from quack doctors in L.A. who you meet in the airport hotel between fl ights. Routine is not the enemy of creativity. I’m very organized. I go out to get the paper within 20 seconds of the same time each day; my hangovers are scheduled a year in advance. I don’t have time to be nuts. If I was retired, I might be completely out of my mind, because I’d have time to give in to neurotic thinking. Now I just have to work it into a schedule. That neurotic behavior has to produce. I can’t get a movie made right now; I’ve found dif- ferent ways to tell stories about what’s obsessing me. I’ve made 15 movies. I’ve made ’em. I wouldn’t make a super-low-budget fi lm now—I’m not going go back to when I was 18. And I can’t go faux underground. I use unions. I have four employees. I’ve gotta work. “Fruitcake” will get made eventually. It’s a children’s movie, the only genre I haven’t done. That would frighten SWEET HOME Despite an affinity parents at one time, but now I think they’d be for it. It’s NEWYORK for organization a commercial movie, but I think all of them are. It’s not TOKYO and optimism, important to scare people. I want to surprise way more Waters’s decor than to scare. Scary would be, like, me in skinny jeans. ATHENS still features fake animals and a metal A 65-year-old man who’s angry is a loser. A 20-year- PRAGUE sculpture of the old angry man is a sexy leader. Nothing makes me angry Unabomber’s cabin. anymore.

30 April 2012 Edited from John Jurgensen’s interview with John Waters

0412_WSJ_Soapbox-Waters_02.indd 30 3/1/12 6:24:07 PM Ideas People

TRACKED 9 a.m. Wakes up PHARRELL WILLIAMS at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel. Over the past decade, Pharrell Williams has created his own job description, writing, producing and rapping on countless hits. Although he’s now an international style icon, a day spent with Williams is still all about the music

Gets dressed SpongeBob SquarePants toe socks, Timberland boots, jeans, plaid shirt around his waist, and a Billionaire Boys Club hoodie.

23carats in his emerald-cut diamond ring. Pharrell doesn’t like to make a point of it. “Lotta guys show off , but I’m not that guy,” he says.

10:15 a.m. Breakfast at Roxbury Cafe with his agent. Croissant sandwich, home fries, orange juice.

THE MUSIC MAN Pharrell Williams feels completely at home in the studio, where a single marathon evening session yields four new songs. people. 6stop him N THE HIGHLY IMITABLE WORLD OF HIP-HOP, producer He has moved into fashion himself, with his line Billionaire on the street Pharrell Williams has cut a unique path, never content to run Boys Club (which has stores in New York City and Hong Kong), for every block he walks. with the pack. Among the fi rst to challenge the baggy-pants and has designed jewelry and eyeglasses for Louis Vuitton. He ideal of hip-hop attire, he champions the work of cutting- calls himself a “kidult,” referencing his man-child tendencies, Iedge designers like Rei Kawakubo and Alber Elbaz and has made which might make sense for someone who rocketed to fame— possible the once absurd notion of a tough young man toting an and riches—in his early 20s. Hermès handbag. But while Williams is increasingly seen as a businessman, creat- Williams, who turns 39 on April 5, formed the production duo ing new songs occupies the bulk of his time. Over the course of a the Neptunes with childhood friend Chad Hugo, and from there 16-hour day in Los Angeles, he records four songs and also works established his distinctive sound. In 2009, Billboard named on the score for the Oscars. (He was chosen by composer Hans the Neptunes the top producers of the decade. Williams has Zimmer to help produce the show.) In the studio, Pharrell’s concen- become a behind-the-scenes mastermind, producing, writing tration is unyielding. He throws out an easy freestyle rhyme and and appearing on hits for rap royals like Jay-Z and Snoop Dogg then sits down with a keyboard and laptop and slips into a trance. Most want pictures; one and less expected acts, such as Britney Spears and garage band Layers are added, and a few errant beats turn into a full-bodied wants him to listen the Hives. He also performs with his own band, N.E.R.D. song with a sound likely to reign on the charts. By Stinson Carter to his friend’s music.

32 April 2012 Photographs by Jessica Haye and Clark Hsiao

0412_WSJ_Tracked_02.indd 32 3/1/12 5:41:16 PM 12 p.m. 3:15 a.m. An Escalade Finishes recording with Wiz

drops him off NEY) for a meeting at composer Hans phone10 calls 22emails Zimmer’s Santa Monica studio. received received all taken or returned. and responded to.

songs completed,4 start to finish text conversations8 percent25 of each day throughout the day. spent on the phone. minutes70 Average time it took Pharrell 2:30 p.m. to compose a song from Lunch with scratch during today’s sessions. Zimmer’s team friends17 in the studio times12 that Pharrell including Busta Rhymes, gets up to dance music photographer to his own music Jonathan Mannion and Leah during the Khalifa session. Labelle, a singer signed to Pharrell’s label, I Am Other. 3:45 p.m. Arrives at Pharrell eats chicken with recording session 33 mashed potatoes and with singer Mayer Hawthorne. Billboard string beans. (Here with Peter Asher, the music producer Pharrell met him onstage Top 40 singles said to be the inspiration ( at a Snoop Dogg show. ) collaborated on by Pharrell, for Austin Powers.) including Snoop boxes10 of Dogg’s “Drop It Like It’s Hot.”

day1 off (DIS IMAGES PICTURES/GETTY LIFE & JOEL/TIME YALE (SNICKERS); PHILLIPS LEAH (BURGER); KONSEVICK ALEX (SANDWICH); CHIK-FIL-A TESY Chinese food for him and his 6:45 p.m. are ordered for the crew. team in January. Session with rapper Also on the menu: orange soda and oversize bags Wiz Khalifa of Starburst and Skittles.

Snacks he likes of Pharrell’s3 favorite places “My house, the recording 20 studio and Disney World.” Grammys3 years that Pharrell won, two as a producer, has worked one as a songwriter. 105 minutes after the with Neptunes partner Chad scheduled start time. Hugo. During a picture signing, () he wrote of Hugo: “the most • Snickers bars • Chick-fi l-A talented guy that I ever • Burger King • Breakfast cereal met and best friend 4 ever.”

titles for2 Wiz’s new album under way “O.N.I.F.C.” stands for “Only N— in First Class,” but he 3:30 a.m. says for Wal-Mart, it’ll be called Returns to “One Night in First Class.” the hotel

3 hours straight members in spent11 recording 4 his entourage Pharrell works with intense hours Mick Moreno (road manager), focus, taking no breaks until he checks out and Ben Edwards (security) and to eat or drink and visiting heads to the airport for

Mike Larson (sound engineer). the restroom only once. his fl ight home to Miami. © GM COMPANY (ESCALADE); FREDERICK M. BROWN/GETTY IMAGES (GRAMMY); THINKSTOCK IMAGES (CHINESE FOOD); YAGI STUDIO (CEREAL); COUR

34 April 2012

0412_WSJ_Tracked_02.indd 34 3/1/12 5:41:18 PM Ideas People paulshark.it

DEEP BLUE SEA Ted Danson and Keith Addis, the forces behind Oceana, the world’s largest international ocean-conservation group, at Santa Monica’s Shutters on the Beach.

THE PARTNERSHIP THE ACTOR AND THE MANAGER After his long run on “Cheers,” Ted Danson faced a career crisis. To endear himself to his eco-committed client, Keith Addis feigned an interest in conservation. Nineteen years later, Addis’s enthusiasm runs as deep as the the two men’s bond

HEN TED DANSON MET KEITH ADDIS in 1993, it with his role on HBO’s recently canceled but much and promotes legislation that protects marine animals. he was one of the most famous TV stars in acclaimed “Bored to Death.” Danson is the rare example It’s become the passion project of Addis, who serves as the world. Starring on “Cheers” for 11 years, of an actor with true cross-generational appeal, an icon president of the board, while Danson is a board mem- he was an actor blessed by a defi ning suc- to baby boomers with the respect of the hipster acolytes ber and a most earnest advocate. The shared interest W cess and cursed by a defi ning role. Addis was an agent of “Bored to Death.” has brought camaraderie to the men’s relationship and turned manager who had guided the careers of stars like When he took on Danson as a client, Addis wanted to grounded it in something more lasting than the typical 10 Alec Baldwin and Sting. As Danson struggled to envision cement the relationship. Aware that the actor had been percent give-and-take between manager and client. life post-“Cheers,” Addis saw him as the perfect addition an environmentalist for decades, Addis saw that as his A position on a philanthropic organization, par- to his talent stable and was eager to take on the chal- ticket. In 1987, Danson had helped create the American ticularly an environmental one, carries an almost lenge. Danson has managed to achieve something with Oceans Campaign, now known as Oceana, and Addis clichéd cachet in Hollywood—and often requires lit- Addis that few could have predicted, consistently work- threw himself into working with the group. Now the tle to no actual work. But Danson has been building ing in television while also evolving his image and fan world’s largest international ocean-conservation organi- this movement since before it was cool, and Addis is base. Last year he took the lead role on “CSI,” juggling zation, Oceana fi ghts against overfi shing and pollution his devoted partner. By Stinson Carter

36 April 2012 Photographs by Sian Kennedy NEW YORK MADISON AVE - AVENTURA MALL - SHORT HILLS MALL - RODEO DRIVE

0412_WSJ_Partnership_02.indd 36 3/2/12 1:42:15 AM Ideas People THE PARTNERSHIP

DANSON ON ADDIS ADDIS ON DANSON

OU KNOW HOW CATS SEE SO WELL IN THE DARK? They see movement. E’S NONCHALANCE; I’M CHALANCE. Ted doesn’t like confrontation. If they look at something still, they have trouble seeing it, so their eyes More than dislikes it—he disappears from it. It’s probably safe to say vibrate to create movement. That’s Keith Addis. He sees things almost bet- that I enjoy confrontation, that I somehow thrive on it. He doesn’t have ter in chaos. He will agitate sometimes to make things visible to him so that any enemies. I do. Yhe can fi x them. He can get things resolved in the midst of chaos. I can’t. I want to be HWhen I started working with Ted, he was already starting to think about his mellow; I want to be happy; I want to be laughing. transition beyond “Cheers.” I’d met him a couple of times, superfi cially, on movie We started working together during my last year of “Cheers.” I was a little panicky sets where I had other clients, but there was one opportunity where I really had a about what life would be like after that, and I was introduced to Keith by someone chance to connect with him, and we decided to work together. It was a handshake— who liked him a lot—an actor. Keith brought the adult side of the business with him, I’ve never had a contract with any client. and I represented the kid side. I get to be the emotional voice, and he gets to be the The truth about why I fi rst got involved in ocean conservation is heartless and adult who hammers on studio and network heads. I want to be in the moment, which completely Machiavellian. I had just signed the biggest television star in the world, is my job as an actor. But if the world depended on somebody like me, improvisational and I thought it would be really smart for me to ingratiate myself with him in an and in the moment, the world would suck. Keith plans, thinks, asks questions, stirs the extracurricular way. But what got me excited about it is my fascination with under- pot. And to be partnered with somebody like that is wonderful to me; it’s a gift. I don’t dog issues. When I joined American Oceans Campaign, Ted was almost its sole have to watch my back, wonder what’s happen- funder. Seven-fi gures-a-year sole funder. Just she was only 8 when we found common ground. ing in the business, or how I’m being perceived. about the time each of us was looking at the One of the reasons why I love Keith genuinely— other, secretly thinking, “This isn’t working,” we not Hollywood love—is that he has spent so much got a call from this startup in D.C. called Oceana, That’s when my daughter became obsessed And those quiet moments walking down the time, eff ort, energy, capital and real sacrifi ce on who had no idea that we were in dire straits. We ocean issues, and when I’ve started to drift and played it totally Hollywood: “I don’t know, we with the game. Naturally, I encouraged this fairway were always something we could call think, “This is too much,” he’s grabbed me and need to think about this—how many board mem- behavior. After work, we’d go to the driving our own. Now, she’s 17, with a 5 handicap, pulled me back. I have never thought about leav- bers, it’s probably not a good fi t.” And meanwhile ing him—19 years—and I have never been wor- we’re going, “OH, MY GOD, WE HAVE TO CLOSE range. On weekends, we’d play the muni and thinks dear-old Dad has nothing left to ried that he would leave me. THIS DEAL IMMEDIATELY!!!” adjacent to the airport. It was our thing. show her. Well, I can think of one thing. There are times when I am out of work, and I am the agent provocateur in our show busi- need some work, and I’ll be getting a series of ness relationship and at Oceana. I am—I’m sure phone calls from him. For most actors, your they would tell you if they were candid—a diffi - heart would start to pump and you’d go, “Maybe cult board member. I’m always excited to fi nd a this is it; maybe I’ve got a job.” Well, when I get challenging mess that needs to be sorted out. a phone call from my manager, my heart doesn’t I knew out there in the ether that they were go pump, it goes, “Oh, s—, I’m about to have to looking for a lead on “CSI.” Ted made it clear that spring/summer go do something for Oceana,” which I think is he would do it only if HBO agreed to continue to • two nights at The Inn at Spanish Bay one of the best things that’s ever happened to my let him do “Bored to Death.” Ted has more good- • one round on Pebble Beach Golf Links plus career. I haven’t had a lot of fear and worry in my will out there than almost anybody I can think of, • one round on Spyglass Hill Golf Course career, because I put all my fear and worry into and everyone roots for his success. On set, he’s or The Links at Spanish Bay other things. It’s a little healthier to be worried the United Nations peacekeeper, the mediator about oceans than about yourself. of all problems. Whenever there’s friction of any We both are pretty philosophical in that kind—and that’s not all that often for someone when you’re hot, you’re hot; when you’re not, you’re not. If you put any emphasis like Ted—but when there is friction to deal with or shoving to do, he doesn’t have to 1.888.556.8349 ASK FOR WJS12 www.PebbleBeach.com PACKAGES START AT $1995* on what you did right and what you did wrong, it’ll make you crazy. You’ll never do any of it. I have had many other clients who have done most of the shoving them- know why you get a job and why you don’t. My job is to stay up and engaged and selves, and they’ve paid a price for it. enjoying life, period. The rest of my career will handle itself. God bless Keith—he We’ve also made choices that didn’t work. It’s impossible not to, because we’re does a lot of hard, crappy work, talking to angry, sad, pissed-off , fearful people making subjective decisions about the future all the time. When you look at a pilot if not now, when? to help me in my career. But that ain’t my job, and it’s not my job to put anything script and the people involved in it, the roll of the dice is incredibly challenging. To on him, ever. I got the greatest job on the planet, “CSI,” and I’m being paid lots of wonder what that’s gonna be like nine episodes out, 14 episodes out…and with a money and it’s thanks to him. movie, the stakes are even higher. Keith and I don’t “hang out.” I don’t hang out with guys. But that’s true of every- When we’re together, we’re really together. You can see our relationship just by body in my life, that’s true of my “Cheers” friends. My father was kind of absentee being in a room with us. But I never have to be on the set just to be there. It’s not to some degree, so women have always had the key to life, for me. But I love to work important to him; it’s not important to me. When he does talk shows, I’m not in the with men. It’s relaxing; guys are simple. green room helping him feel comfortable, holding his hand. I have four kids, so I’ve been to hell and back.I know life is messy, and I know life can I have been through very diffi cult personal times and professional times with him, be dark. But if I want to get something done, I like to be calm and have a sense of humor and he is the real deal, through thick and thin. I have never seen him get angry. I get about it. I can aff ord to be calm because I know Keith can absorb the chaos. We are so angry about 15 times a day; that’s a lot of my battery, a lot of my energy. There are diff erent as people, but there’s this unspoken thing—we know we love each other. I people who are naive optimists. But he is optimistic about the world and about the never worry about whether he has my interests at stake and whether he’s doing every- impact that smart people can have on challenging problems. And that’s very inspira- *Package is valid April 1, 2012 - Septermber 3, 2012. Quoted package price above is for two nights in a Garden View room at The Inn at Spanish Bay, plus one round on Pebble Beach Golf Links and one round on The Links at Spanish Bay, for one player. Packages which include Spyglass Hill Golf Course or other room types are a higher price; please inquire to learn what is available and obtain a specific price quote. Offer is subject to availability. Package price includes occupancy tax, thing he can for me. I know he would never hurt me, and that’s pretty neat. tional for me and for everybody around him. ARTISTS FOR DIOR HOMME JOHNSTON/EXCLUSIVE ROSIE GROOMING: County tourism assessment and service charge. Valid for new bookings only, and parties of 8 rooms or less. Not valid in conjunction with other offers. Some blackout dates apply. Rates are subject to change.

Pebble Beach®, Pebble Beach Golf Links®, Pebble Beach Resorts®, Spyglass Hill® Golf Course, The Links at Spanish Bay™, The Inn at Spanish Bay™, The Lone Cypress™, The Heritage Logo and their respective underlying distinctive images are trademarks, service marks, and trade dress of Pebble Beach Company. Photo Credit: Joann Dost. 38 April 2012 Edited from Stinson Carter’s interviews with Ted Danson and Keith Addis

0412_WSJ_Partnership_02.indd 38 3/2/12 1:42:19 AM Ideas People

MAKING IT THE GENTLEMAN FARMER Forgoing the fashionable life of his famous family, Daniel de la Falaise decides to dig in the dirt

OR MODEL-ACTOR-CHEF-ARISTO turned biody- makers of Brunello di Montalcino wine. Like the Sestis, namic farmer Daniel de la Falaise, fi nding your de la Falaise farms biodynamically, following the lunar calling late in life runs in the family. His grand- cycles to achieve the most favorable conditions for his mother Maxime de la Falaise was the celebrated plants. For him it’s all about determining the right time F1950s fashion model who went on to write a food column for planting, cultivating and harvesting to achieve the for “Vogue.” His great-uncle was Mark Birley, founder most fl avorsome and fragrant results. It’s not unusual for of Annabel’s nightclub and Harry’s Bar, him to get up at 3 a.m. to tend the crops. in London. And his aunt, Loulou de la Working the land in the dead of night Falaise, started out designing fabrics is a long way from de la Falaise’s high- for Halston before becoming Yves Saint fl ying early days as a model, when he Laurent’s muse and the inspiration for was a favorite of photographer Steven his famous “Le Smoking” Jacket. Meisel and appeared in Madonna’s book Caramel Macchiato Although de la Falaise spent the pre- “Sex” and as a stage actor in New York vious decade working as one of Europe’s City and London. Or, for that matter, most sought after private chefs—he’s cavorting with London’s top society, as PUT A CORK IN IT Daniel de cooked for a number of Hollywood stars he did in the late ’90s while learning to la Falaise’s line of infused olive and catered his good friend Kate Moss’s cook in the kitchen at Harry’s Bar. But oils and vinegars, Le Garde- Manger de la Falaise (above). recent wedding—two years ago, at age as the sun sets over the sunfl ower fi elds The Southwest region of 39, he set upon the idea to develop his and the ancient, gnarled trees bow their France, near Toulouse, where own line of sustainable olive oils and leaves, who could argue with a career he lives and gardens, is vinegars, Le Garde-Manger de la Falaise. spent in paradise? known for its pink garlic. Today he happily spends his time in France’s southwest countryside, tending to herb and vegetable gardens at the charming lakeside farmhouse that his family bought fi ve years ago and has painstakingly restored. With boyish delight, the quick- witted de la Falaise points out the basil fl owers, pink garlic and tarragon that have already made Le Garde- Hot Iced Manger a hit with food critics lucky enough to sample it. This spring the line will debut at Selfridges. The key, says de la Falaise, has been sourcing the fi n- est of ingredients. The extra-virgin oil, which he uses as a base for the infused oils, comes from the Tuscany estate of the Sesti family, old friends and the well-known

Whether you like your Caramel Macchiato hot or iced, it’s made

SLOW FOOD An infusion in just for you. progress (left) and de la Falaise Come in for your Starbucks favorite today. at work on his family estate.

starbucks.com Caramel Macchiato 40 April 2012 Photographs by Tim Beddow © 2012 Starbucks Coffee Company. All rights reserved.

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0412_WSJ_MerchDesks_01.indd 48 2/29/12 1:38:14 PM Places Things “Eddie said, ‘It’s ONLYa bad sore throat.’ To sirs, wiTh love Forgoing a high-powered career to become a schoolteacher might seem unthinkable to most. Alittle over ONE week later, he’s facing leukemia. But when it became apparent to these five men that business success simply wasn’t satisfying, they ditched the boardroom for the classroom and never looked back I had to find the best place for him. Turns out,it was in Houston.”

STYLE THERE’S ONLY ONE YOU. AND ONLY ONE MD ANDERSON. Scan QR code to watch Eddie’s Wo rking in a hospital,Pearlie Saddler knew theright people to ask when it came story and Lance Leener, 52 other videos. Then VP at Gloria Vanderbilt Now eighth-grade english and social studies teacher, Tompkins Square Middle School, new York city to treating her husband Eddie’s leukemia. That’s why the Saddlers traveled from South Carolina to MDAnderson. Our experienced cancer specialists have the options they need to customize an individual treatment plan. That kind When Leener was feeling discontented with the corporate world and contemplating a change, his wife reminded him how much he liked working with children. Her support, emotional and financial, helped him power through a career shift. “Being a teacher is of customized care saved Eddie Saddler’s life15 years ago. If you’re facing cancer, the hardest job on the planet. I work my ass off, I can’t even tell you. I have an open-door policy with email with my students, and call us directly at1-877-MDA-6789, or visit us at MakingCancerHistory.com. I interface a lot with parents, so it feels like a 24/7 job. I love it and couldn’t think of doing anything differently, but it is so hard.”

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50 April 2012 Photographs by Andreas Laszlo Konrath Styling by David Farber

0412_WSJ_GroomingTeachers_01.indd 50 2/29/12 11:34:08 AM Places Things STYLE

JAMIE HOOPER, 43 GreGory DaviD, 42 Then Publisher of “Maxim” and founder of “Giant” magazine Now Fourth-grade teacher at the IDEAL School, New York City Then Wall Street portfolio manager and financial journalist Now Fourth-grade teacher at the Bank Street School for Children, New york City

Enjoying his job but tired of being away from his family with the constant traveling it required, Hooper switched Feeling that his peak years of happiness in business were behind him, David was looking for more meaning and joy gears. Working as a special education teacher allowed him to tap into his desire to address the diff erent ways in in his work and wasn’t deterred when he found the teaching workload to be heavier than that of his previous jobs. which children learn. “In business you’re developing relationships based on money and solving marketing and advertising “The increased time drain on my family was the biggest change in switching careers. The most obvious change is the financial problems. Which is interesting. But now it’s really more issues of personal growth and development.” one, but I didn’t think twice about that, frankly. I wasn’t looking for material happiness but for professional joy.”

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52 April 2012 April 2012 53

0412_WSJ_GroomingTeachers_02.indd 52 2/29/12 10:11:23 PM 0412_WSJ_GroomingTeachers_01.indd 53 2/29/12 11:35:24 AM 0412_WSJ_GroomingTeachers_03.indd 54 Places 54 April2012 54 STYLE

to build,andalsoalevelofrespect you have to have forthecommunity. You have to recognize thatalotoftheirparents don’t have college degrees. With amother whograduated college inher40s, Garcia under So you have to buildawareness whilehelpingthekidsunderstand thatit’s alsoveryhonorable to workinjobsthatdon’tneed higher education.” Things He left his positionatGoldmanSachstoHe left join Then Now GoldmanSachsanalystNow Teachfor America, Gant sweater,Garcia’s henley.own Sixth-grade teacher at Alfred E. Burr Elementary inHartford,Connecticut E.BurrElementary teacheratSixth-grade Alfred BRIAN GARCIA, 28 stood the role that education plays in preparing underprivileged st believing theprogram mirrored hisbeliefs. “There isanawareness you have OribeFoundation Mist, Volumista udentslife.for 3/5/12 5:27:10 PM 0412_WSJ_GroomingTeachers_01.indd 55 HAIRHair ANDand GROOMINGGroominG BYby ANNAanna BERNABEbernabe @ EAMGMTeamGmT FORfor ORIBEoribe HAIRCAREHaircare ANDand LIZLiz EARLEearLe SKINCARE;Skincare; PHOTOpHoTo ASSISTANT:aSSiSTanT: JOSHUAJoSHua ELAN;eLan; ASSISTANTaSSiSTanT SSTTYLIST:yLiST: MARIANAmariana BELObeLo Burned outbyhis100-hourweeks asafinancialanalyst, Manjeeinterviewed atprivate-equity fundsbutknew heneeded amore dramatic “On thefirst day, I tell them,‘Don’tthinkofmeasa teacher—think ofme asabigbrother who’s going to take you through this.’ It’s shift. Hewasshift. accepted into Teach for America, whichplaced himatInnovation, aschoolthattargets overage students (ages 17 to 21). great to have thatrelationship, because thentheyseemeassort ofarole model—aperson theycan relate to.” Then Louis Vuitton jacket, MarcJacobs sweater, Thom crème OribeGelserum, Browne for Style. shirt. for page Sources, see 94 details MerrillLynch investment-banking analyst Abb Now A Math teacherat Innovation DiplomaPlusHighs s M A

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April 2012 2/29/12 11:36:32 AM 55 Places Things

THE SHIFT SOME THE BRITISH ARE COMING! Once the mainstay of aristocratic dukes and other landed gentry, centuries-old English tailors are the hottest thing in men’s fashion BY STEVE GARBARINO COFFEES

FTER MORE THAN TWO DECADES of precious GUIDE TO LIVING Left: A style guides, pop-cultural fads and runway 1964 style manual put designer trends mandating what to wear, out by Hardy Amies. Below: Amies’s own shorts are a fashion-savvy men have been costuming predecessor to those in the Ato the demands of the zeitgeist rather than choos- WAKE line’s recent collection. ing what fi ts them personally—good taste or not. But fortunately, a considerable number are turning of late to the concept of essentials dressing, from clas- sic sportswear to dressier clothing that doesn’t own them—suits and shirts that have, instead of designers’ names, their owner’s hand-embroidered monograms YOU UP, sewn on their linings and cuff s. It’s beginning to seem that father did know best— not to mention the true forefathers of style, the legen- dary 19th-century bespoke houses of central London’s Savile Row. Seeing a steadily growing demand for lasting, well-made things, some of those once revered brands are astutely taking their cues from the OTHERS Americana look popularized by men’s style websites and the unstoppable heritage-brand excavator J.Crew. Realizing that they must take measures to fi t the more modern fi gure and mind-set, these veteran bespoke labels are dusting off their signature pieces— and crest-like emblems—for more updated takes on MAKE YOU their classic looks, while still remaining true to them. HARDY AMIES It was a long time coming. Savile Row, which every self-respecting STYLE ELEMENTS fashion designer, head of state, manor Hardy Amies’s lord, and enduring leading man of spring show the past two centuries called home, (above); had begun to feel as predictable as DREAM. a look from the next “Sherlock Holmes” movie. the collection, inspired by As American lines like Bonobos, Band an Englishman of Outsiders and Freemans Sporting in Venice. Club have adapted the traditional tailoring of their storied U.K. coun- terparts to suit modern tastes (“if it ain’t broke we’ll nip it”), at London’s custom houses, even a stitching tweak would be perceived as mutinous a decade ago. Now the grand tailoring houses that once dressed the likes of Winston Churchill, the Duke of Windsor and Enjoy Café-Quality Italian Espresso for only $125* (a $295 value) Cary Grant, have started putting Transform your coffee moment into something extraordinary by enjoying an some kick in their cravats, while CUT-UPS authentic Italian espresso at the touch of a button. Purchase the Francis Francis removing the fi gurative starch from Above: Amies with Y1 and enjoy the convenience of receiving automatic coffee deliveries. Choose Bob Hope in the their trademark-enforced lapels. 1950s. Right: Amies Traditional tailors—Turnbull & Asser, from seven different capsule varieties, and customize your quantity and delivery relaxing in the Alfred Dunhill, E. Tautz and Hardy schedule to fit your needs - plus receive exclusive benefits. 30-day risk-free trial leisure clothes that inspired the casual- Amies among them—are recruiting chic looks the neoclassic and avant-garde designers Order online: illyusa.com/UPWS312 or call 1-877-469-4559. Use code: UPWS312 line was famous for. alike, refi ning and retrofi tting their THE HARDY AMIES ARCHIVE (ALL) *When you purchase the Francis Francis Y1 machine you will be required to purchase a minimum of 3 cans of iperEspresso capsules. You’ll continue to receive automatic coffee deliveries of 3 cans or more on the schedule you select. There’s no commitment, and you can change or cancel your coffee deliveries any time after your first shipment. Offer valid through 9/1/12. For complete details about this offer visit illyusa.com/UPWS312. 56 April 2012

0412_WSJ_Shift-BritTailoring_03.indd 56 3/2/12 11:06:30 PM Places Things THE SHIFT BEAU OF THE BALL Truman silk, wool, cashmere and knit wares NEW FAVORITE Capote, with just enough to maintain their legen- E. Tautz has Katharine Graham, updated its line wore a custom dary pedigree while attracting a new using classic Dunhill tuxedo to and youngish clientele. The result is wools and his famous Black exceptionally well-made clothing, with tweeds—but and White Ball. slightly more slim-fi tted cuts, some- still employs times lower-rise trousers and the addi- traditional stitching. tion of separates—dandy-ism with a dash of rebel scuff .

T THE FABLED 126-year-old shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, James Fayed—fresh off of co- creating the ready-to-wear lineA Bespoken—is tweaking the brand once known for dressing everyone from TURNBULL & ASSER OLD SPORTS the Prince of Wales to Charlie Chaplin. Above: Robert Since 2009, the scruff y designer (from Redford’s Jay the family that owns Harrods) has been Gatsby wore Turnbull & Asser’s helming all operations, from retail and silk shirts; below: marketing to the overall direction of an ad featuring the line. who joined Amies following a stint with E. Tautz, has BRITISH frequent patron MAN OF LEISURE Fayed’s subtle innovations have also introduced future-leaning fabrics to its dress- HERITAGE Right: A Winston Churchill. vintage Dunhill ad Turnbull & Asser’s culminated in the Turnbull brand, a shirt collection, including something called liquid touts made-to- elegant silk more casual line comprising limited- cotton, a treated soft fabric that can be washed at dressing gowns, order winter wear first offered edition suits and separates, made home. She describes the spring-summer collection in a Melton wool; in 1885, remain with a more structured fi t than the as having been inspired by an Englishman in Venice: far right, a modern a cult favorite. classic cuts that inspired them. The lighter, softer tailoring for comfort needed with mod- Dunhill look shows off a sleeker cut. house has also expanded its made-to- ern travel, with no sacrifi ce of style. measure custom business, off ering a wide range of fi ne leather gloves EANWHILE, Alfred Dunhill, ALFRED DUNHILL These reinvigorated Savile and cashmere and wool socks (or which began as a saddlery Row lines have one “hose,” as it quaintly still calls them), WINDSOR) OF (DUKE IMAGES TTY fi rm in 1893 before trans- silk ties, even boxer shorts. At retail forming into the cigarette thing in common: a return stores, customers can choose from Mbrand and luxury-goods outpost it is to men being—or at calf, crocodile and ostrich to make today, has perhaps taken the largest leaps FIT FOR A KING a belt; umbrellas are off ered with of the old houses into the 21st century. From left: Today’s least looking like—men. 20 handle options. And there are Under the direction of designer Jason Dunhill suit; the Duke hundreds of ready-made (and off- Beckley, who was previously at McQ of Windsor, a brand devotee, in 1946. the-rack) vibrant-colored, respectably rebellious (Alexander McQueen’s secondary label), button-downs (including vintage flannel plaids) as Dunhill clothing and accessories have INSTANT well as T&A’s signature “dressing gowns” that would upheld the standards of fi ne fabrics and VINTAGE give Jack Nicholson pause. cuts, while its website features a much- A modern A source of pride, its wild-hued and -patterned cus- talked-about social-media marketing E. Tautz look reinterprets tom silk shirts are still made in the U.K. in its Gloucester campaign called “The Voice.” In the separates. A textile factory. But Turnbull now dresses a man from black-and-white mini-documentaries, gathered cuff head to toe. “It’s one-stop shopping,” says Fayed. very serious men—masculine maver- echoes the Touting a similar pedigree, E. Tautz, a haberdasher icks at the top of their game, including house’s athletic tradition. founded in 1867, is also very much back in business after Olympic rower Sir Matthew Pinsent, SEAM STEALER suff ering a post-WWII decline in sales. With the spring artist-author Harland Miller and bal- Above: Sean collection, owner Patrick Grant heralds a modernized let dancer Rupert Pennefather—confi de Connery as James Bond, pictured take on its sporting lineage: A tapered version of the intimate anecdotes about their lives as here in “Dr. No,” signature look the brand was known for, using the same if to an off -camera therapist. Though wore his Turnbull Melton (a heavy wool-based fabric) and soft, cavalry- all are dressed in Dunhill, the focus & Asser with cuffs issue, twill-weaved Barathea (made by the same fi rm isn’t upon the wares. The more high- rolled, sans links. Right: Cary Grant that stitched them back in the 19th century). profi le visage of Jude Law has acted as wearing E. Tautz in At Hardy Amies—the 1940s-era Savile Row military the “global face” of the company’s more “To Catch a Thief.” E. TAUTZ outfi tters and “home of British couture,” named after Hollywoodized print advertisements. Sir Amies, the dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II turned If all of these reinvigorated Savile men’s accessories maker and tailor—design director Row lines have one thing in common, it is Claire Malcolm has been adding a more contemporary a return to men being—or at least look- fi t to the label’s famed French-cuff herringbone-weave ing like—men. And for real men, fashion

cotton shirts. Malcolm, a 32-year-old former stylist PARAMOUNT/THE KOBAL COLLECTION (REDFORD); DANJAQ/EON/UA/THE KOBAL COLLECTION (CONNERY); EVERETT COLLECTION (GRANT); COURTESY OF TURNBULL & ASSER FROM THE BOOK “THE PEDIGREE AND STYLE OF A VERY ENGLISH INSTITUTION” ( AD); COURTESY OF TURNBULL & ASSER (GOWN) COURTESY E. TAUTZ (LOOK) CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF E. TAUTZ; ©BETTMANN/CORBIS; COURTESY OF ALFRED DUNHILL (AD & LOOKS); GAMMA-KEYSTONE VIA GE is about the wearer, not the designer.

58 April 2012 April 2012 59

0412_WSJ_Shift-BritTailoring_02.indd 58 3/1/12 11:54:32 PM 0412_WSJ_Shift-BritTailoring_02.indd 59 3/1/12 11:54:35 PM WSJ. MAGAZINE ISSUE NO. 24 APRIL

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0412_WellOpener_02.indd 61 2/29/12 10:14:08 PM MASCULINE, DEFINED

WORKING MAN Brolin made his first movie at 17 and What if you could combine earned an Oscar nomination at 39. the old-Hollywood In between came a lot of hard work. ruggedness of Humphrey “Even if you’re great, it doesn’t necessarily Bogart with the edgy cool of mean anything. We all know a lot of bad ’70s Jack Nicholson? Then actors out there right now who are you’d have Josh Brolin, the extremely successful.”

rare leading man whose Opposite: Dolce & Gabbana shirt, talent equals his good looks What Goes Around Comes Around vintage belt, vintage Levi’s 501s. This page: What Goes PHOTOGRAPHS BY TERRY RICHARDSON Around Comes STYLING BY GEORGE CORTINA Around vintage T-shirt

412_WSJ_Cover-Brolin_02.indd 62 3/1/12 6:04:17 PM 412_WSJ_Cover-Brolin_01.indd 63 2/29/12 3:43:40 PM BEST FRIENDS Brolin trades a kiss with his dog, Milo. “My mom was an animal activist,” he says. “I grew up with wolves, coyotes, mountain lions, dogs and cats.”

Opposite: Brolin’s brolin prefers dramas to own T-shirt and jeans. This page: Tom comedies, but after seeing Ford tuxedo, vintage Stetson hat, Scully shirt, bolo tie, What Woody allen’s “Midnight in Goes Around Comes paris,” he sent the director Around vintage boots For details see a note: “Why couldn’t i Sources, page 94 have been in that movie?”

OR THE PAST fIvE yEARS, Josh Brolin has played And there is something distinctly modern and up for a series of unlikable men: a greed-struck Texan grabs in the troubled characters he takes on. in the Coen brothers’ “No Country for Old Men,” This summer he puts on the hero suit, playing a a corrupt cop in Ridley Scott’s “American Gang- younger version of Tommy Lee Jones in the time- ster,” F an adulterous, thieving author in Woody Allen’s traveling “Men in Black 3.” “I’ve been off ered a lot of “You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger,” Harvey Milk’s big commercial fi lms that I just wasn’t into because assassin in Gus Van Sandt’s “Milk,” George W. Bush in they were more event fi lms,” he says. Here, too, he saw Oliver Stone’s “W.” His nuanced portrayals of tough a chance to test himself. “It was a great challenge: Can I guys tangled up in their own ugly impulses have earned pull off [imitating] Tommy, and can I do it in a way that’s him an Oscar nomination for “Milk” and the chance to human and not a caricature? The goal is that the audi- keep wrestling with darkness onscreen. “I’m the guy ence just believes it’s him. Then you can actually watch who’s having a nice run,” he says simply of the more the fi lm, not get in the way of the fi lm.” than a dozen movies he has made since 2007. Brolin is a second-generation actor—his father, Though his ascent is recent, his career is long. His James Brolin, cut a woolly chested path through ’70s and first break came at 16, when the improv classes that were ’80s TV on prime-time dramas like “Marcus Welby, M.D.” among his high school enthusiasms (others included and “Hotel.” But Josh grew up with his mother, an animal surfing and drumming in a punk band) won him a role in rights activist, away from Los Angeles, on a ranch in Paso 1985’s “The Goonies.” Now 44, Brolin acknowledges that Robles, California. “I come from dirt,” he says proudly, he is lucky to have been able to support himself as an and he maintains the connection even now. He still lives actor for so long (though he was also briefly a day trader on a ranch, with his wife, actress Diane Lane, apart from during leaner years). He knows that he has taken a dif- the trappings of Hollywood, and he chauff eurs himself ferent path to stardom, edging up to leading-man status around in a black Dodge Ram—the latest in a series of after years of television work and small film parts gave pickups. (“This sounds so dumb,” he says, “but I really way to a string of villains whom he found ways to make love my truck.”) complicated. “Just to play a guy who’s bad,” he says, Brolin speaks with disarming honesty and humor, “seems so limiting.” veering from a dismissal of his 2010 bomb, “Jonah Hex” It’s that instinct to seek out complication, and to (“didn’t turn out very well”), to his enthusiasm for a doc- test himself, that makes him so compelling. His pres- umentary he’s producing about Dean Potter, who climbs ence onscreen is at once commanding and vulnerable, mountains with no safety gear other than a parachute. almost as though he were summing up decades of movie “I have a huge amount of respect for that confrontation history: He has the square-jawed cragginess of ’40s and with the self,” he says, “and what it takes to overcome ’50s movie heroes like Humphrey Bogart, but he com- those moments of paralyzing fear and actually befriend municates the free-wheeling shagginess of ’70s stars it.” And then immediately he laughs. “I sound like a

who played things their own way, like Jack Nicholson. GROOMER: CAROLINE LAUREN PRODUCER: KAYE @ COHEN TAILOR: JOY ASBURY; LARS AT TRACEY MATTINGLY; SWANSON; NORD:LIGHTING STYLIST DAVID EILEEN TECH: STEPHANIE ASSISTANTS: SETH HAYES, DIGITAL TECH: ASHMORE GLEN GOLDFARB; PHOTO ASSISTANT: FABIAN; weirdo now.” Not really. More like an artist. By Joe Levy

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412_WSJ_Cover-Brolin_03.indd 65 3/6/12 12:03:30 PM The spirit of EMINENTthe Bloomsbury Group is alive in a downtown Manhattan loft, where two modern families share one fl oor, thriving in a creative community of their own making BOHEMIANS BY SARA RUFFIN COSTELLO PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA HARDY

N A LATE-JANUARY EVENING, having already had three cock- lifestyle; Virginia Woolf, for instance, immortalized her two-decade tails at two events, I was feeling jolly, before blowing into relationship with writer Vita Sackville-West in the novel “Orlando.” the night’s most promising: a Robert Burns—poet hero to (Both were married.) all Scotsmen—party at the home of classical composer Paul In this current-day collective, McCluskey is the Vanessa Bell charac- CantelonO and his wife, singer Angela McCluskey. For the past seven ter. At Charleston, the Sussex farmhouse where Bell lived with her fam- years, the two have had a fairly open-door policy with their neighbors, ily, she and her lover Duncan Grant painted everything from fi replaces, performance artist Sarah Sophie Flicker and Jesse Peretz, director of tables and decorative screens to wall panels, cupboards and doors. Here “Our Idiot Brother.” The two families live on the same fl oor, in sepa- at McCluskey’s apartment, everywhere you look there are similarly rate apartments, moving easily back and forth through each other’s painted surfaces, old family photographs or charcoal studies of heads spaces and lives. It is not the several dozen animated artists, perform- taped to the refrigerator. The apartment is a highly personalized Miss ers and musicians, however, that make this party seem remarkable. Havisham mix of comfortable velvet and silk sofas, with loads of pillows Here, in a present-day downtown Manhattan loft, the Bloomsbury in checks, chintz, stripes and tapestry, tonight all aglow with candlelight. Group—the tight-knit cultural collective of early-20th-century British Midparty, McCluskey is stomping her heels. In her distinctive iconoclasts—feels alive and well. “Trainspotting” accent, she says, “Everyone shut the f— up.” Cantelon, The echoes of Bloomsbury, both aesthetic and cultural, are unmis- with amethyst rings, a foulard and a dandifi ed British suit, lifts the vio- GARDEN PARTY Singer Angela McCluskey takable. From the 1900s to the 1930s, this small group of intellectuals, lin to his chin and plays the fi rst haunting note of the Irish song “My and her husband, composer Paul Cantelon, painters, philosophers and writers—most famously Virginia Woolf; Lagan Love.” This salon full of big personalities goes dead as McCluskey in their New York City apartment. Opposite, from left: Lady Ottoline Morrell, Maria her sister, artist Vanessa Bell, who painted canvases and walls; and begins to sing—all measured passion and complex melody. Huxley and Bloomsbury members Lytton economist John Maynard Keynes—collaborated on work and on life, If you turned off the sound, you’d be mesmerized by how McCluskey Strachey, Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell. upending hard-wired Victorian notions of love, family and creativ- and Cantelon look—complementary opposites. McCluskey is dark and

© NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, © LONDON NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, ity. A hallmark of the Bloomsbury Group was their unconventional stormy, like a messy Scottish geisha, red lips, pale skin, and insane coif

66 67

0412_WSJ_Bohemians_02.indd 66 3/2/12 1:31:14 AM 0412_WSJ_Bohemians_04.indd 67 3/6/12 12:31:28 PM HISTORY REPEATS Below, the interior of Charleston, where Vanessa Bell lived with longtime lover Duncan Grant from 1916 until her death in 1961. The two painted walls, furniture and the fi replace. Right, a bedroom at Charleston resembles McCluskey’s; there even seems to be a likeness between Virginia Woolf (inset) and Cantelon.

ALL IN THE FAMILY Sarah Sophie Flicker (left) with her four- year-old daughter, Arrow, in McCluskey and Cantelon’s bedroom. The fi replace (below) recalls the aesthetic of Charleston, the Bloomsbury Group’s Sussex farmhouse. CHARLESTON- ON-THE-HUDSON Cantelon, left, at home with a cluster of fake blooms. McCluskey, below left, in her kitchen, treats everything in her apartment as a canvas, even the refrigerator. “My thing is painting tables,” she says. “I can’t bear a simple surface.” against Cantelon’s airy lightness. But with the volume way up, you fall into this couple’s world. Distilled through violin and voice, there are notes of hilarity and heartbreak. It was in fact this voice that drew Cantelon and McCluskey together 22 years ago. She spotted him playing piano at an Indian restaurant in London. She mistook him for “a cute French guy” and went to chat him up with some choice Gallic phrases. “He turned to me in this perfectly not-French accent,” she remembers, “and his fi rst words were, ‘You’ve got the most desperately unique voice.’” They’ve been a couple ever since. McCluskey is ANTELON’S OWN IMPROBABLE STORY starts in Glendale, the Vanessa California. The son of a magnetic faith healer, he was raised in Bell character. evangelical revival tents across the U.S. and Europe. “Traveling The apartment like gypsies, we had to set up camp wherever we went. There C was no time for real school,” Cantelon says. “I was taught on the road is a Miss by a cousin, only the rudimentary basics. Later, when I went to attend Juilliard, I needed to pass the New York state equivalency to get a GED. I Havisham had never really been around people my own age and I wore this incred- mix of ible ‘Brideshead Revisited’ costume to take the exam in Queens. The comfortable other kids were like, ‘Who is this creature?’ I failed the test three times. I couldn’t get past the simple arithmetic.” velvet and Math skills took a backseat to music. Cantelon was seven when he silk sofas, fi rst picked up a violin and was playing professionally at UCLA’s Royce Hall by the time he was 13. At a faith-healing event, he met the legen- and nearly dary pianist Donalee Reubenet, Rachmaninoff ’s protégé. She played every available a diff erent Chopin étude on each hand while singing the old hymn “What a Friend We Have in Jesus.” “Liszt couldn’t have carried it off surface is any better,” Cantelon remembers. “I marched up to this ethereal thing painted. and said, ‘I must study with you.’�”

68 69

0412_WSJ_Bohemians_02.indd 68 3/2/12 1:31:21 AM 0412_WSJ_Bohemians_03.indd 69 3/2/12 9:39:50 PM MEET THE NEIGHBORS Jesse Peretz, in 1987 with the Lemonheads (above), and in 2011, directing the cast of “Our Idiot Brother” (right); Sarah Sophie Flicker onstage in 2005 with her performance-art collective, Citizens Band (below), and with the cast of Citizens Band’s show “The Panic Is On” (bottom).

PIANO MAN Cantelon (above), at work in his studio. Behind him is a framed original of “Sports et Divertissements” by PERFORMANCE ART McCluskey singing with Citizens Band in 2005 Erik Satie. Bottom right, (top); her first solo album (above) was released in 2004; a poster for several of Cantelon’s a show in L.A.; the French movie poster for Julian Schnabel’s “The Diving scores in progress. Bell and the Butterfly” (below), for which Cantelon composed the score.

While the family lived pillar to post, Mrs. Cantelon managed to take her 14-year-old son to his piano lessons every day. Practicing 30 to 40 Cantelon, a hours a week, to the point of exhaustion, he was fi xated on Chopin: “I piano-playing related to his life and his temperament,” Cantelon says. “Our hands are even the same size.” prodigy, and Despite serious study, a teenage Cantelon was still glued to his his evangelical evangelical father’s desultory life. “Daddy played the banjo and the sax. It was all pretty garish, so we decided I’d improvise these lilting father were nocturnes on the piano while he fi lled in the words with a stream- a big hit. of-consciousness prayer.” The piano-playing prodigy and his mercu- rial father were a hit. From Europe to America, the faithful stood for From Europe hours, waiting to be healed. to America, the faithful HEN THE MUSIC STOPPED. At 17, while riding his bicycle through the outskirts of Brussels, Cantelon was hit dead-on stood for by an elderly motorist. Weeks later, he fi nally awoke from a hours, waiting coma in a dirty Flemish hospital. He remembered nothing. Not T even how to fi nd middle C. to be healed. Appropriately and bizarrely, Cantelon recovered when his brother urged him, two years later, to attend a healing meeting in L.A. The preacher called out that someone in that very audience would play music again. Cantelon stood up, walked over to the piano and slowly started anew. Since then, his output has been unstoppable: performances with everyone from Joe Cocker to George Clinton, solo classical recordings, two albums with the Wild Colonials and a pile of fi lm scores, includ- ing “Everything Is Illuminated” and “The Other Boleyn Girl.” In Julian Schnabel’s 2007 fi lm, “The Diving Bell and the Butterfl y,” Cantelon’s mel- ancholy solo piano functions like a supporting actor, not just background swell. That’s because Cantelon understood the hero’s paralytic state of

PREVIOUS PAGE: VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN ON PREVIOUS VIEW VISITBRITAIN/BRITAIN (CHARLESTON PAGE: HOUSE ARCHIVE/GETTY X2); HULTON EVERETT ESY IMAGES COURT THIS (WOOLF). CRAIG COLLECTION; CLOCKWISE GAETANO SALVADORE PAGE OF COMPANY/COURTESY FROM BLANKENHORN/©WEINSTEIN COURTESY OF TOP LEFT: BENDEILY.COM; THE CITIZENS BAND; JASON ARMSTRONG BECK/BERNADETTE EVERETT ©MIRAMAX/COURTESY (2); COURTESY OF COLLECTION; GAETANO SALVADORE THE CITIZENS BAND; PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM suff ering from the inside. “I remember incredibly well the feeling like

0412_WSJ_Bohemians_02.indd 70 3/2/12 1:31:26 AM 0412_WSJ_Bohemians_03.indd 71 3/2/12 9:39:52 PM A CHARMED LIFE Clockwise from right: A snapshot by Lady Ottoline Morrell of Virginia Woolf (center), scholar Lord David Cecil (left) and writer Edward Sackville-West (on blanket), at her house, Garsington Manor, in 1923; the layered mantel at Charleston; a Bloomsbury lunch on the lawn in 1915.

when you’re in a dream, trying to run but can’t,” he says. “The feeling of love entertaining.” At her “empty-chair parties,” fi ve friends each At the party, being in the diving bell. To this day, I still push against it.” bring one extraordinary person as their guest. An empty chair facili- Sarah Sophie tates conversation hopping. ACK AT THE PARTY, Peretz and Flicker’s four-year-old daugh- “I can’t stand formality; I’m strictly unstrict,” McCluskey says. Flicker’s ter, Arrow, dances through the crowd, stopping to explain to But that’s not the same as casual—she’s earned the nickname Bossy daughter Carrie Fisher how if you breathe on her necklace, it makes Pants for her strong, and strongly expressed, opinions, particularly explains to wishes come true. Jesse Peretz remembers a steady fl ow about overhead lighting. Friends tell stories of having their apart- of eccentricB people in and out of his own house while growing up in ments “Angela-fi ed”—reentering a room to fi nd she’s miraculously Carrie Fisher Cambridge, Massachusetts. He says, “I want my kids to have that expe- redecorated it. “If Angela’s alone in your house for 45 minutes, you’ll that if you rience too—the fun part of my childhood where the guest room was come back to something much improved,” says a close friend, pub- never empty. We made Paul and Angela godparents because that’s who licist Oberon Sinclair. “Furniture rearranged, a new lamp scheme, breathe on I would’ve wanted.” (Others have felt the same way, as Angela is also rugs swapped out. If you give her two hours, she might paint your her necklace, godmother to the singer Lily Allen and Lisa Marie Presley’s daughter, living room.” Riley Keough.) When Peretz threw his grandmother’s 100th birthday Twenty-two years in, Cantelon says his partnership with McCluskey wishes party, Cantelon played a recital for her with Yo-Yo Ma. And over drinks works because of mutual support. “We champion each other. As diamet- come true. one night, Cantelon and McCluskey encouraged Flicker to pursue her rically oppositional as we are, we very much believe in our lives together. plans for Citizens Band, a political cabaret troupe with a rotating cast. To hell, or heaven, in a handbasket.” As much as their lives are a tapestry of characters, the group is Right now, McCluskey is fi nishing up recording for her new album, respectful of the solitude required for creative output. People show and Cantelon is polishing a collection of arias based on 19th-century NOT MRS. DALLOWAY’S Sarah Sophie Flicker (above) stands on the sofa to check for arriving guests; up often, but McCluskey and Cantelon are loners. “Paul spends his poetry. It all brings to mind a description of the Bloomsbury Group from a detail of the kitchen (right); flowers and candlelight surround Cantelon, writer-director days at the studio, and I’m here working on a record or painting. turn-of-the-century philosopher George Edward Moore: “One’s prime Geoffrey Fletcher, Sarah Sophie Flicker and Carrie Fisher at a Robert Burns–themed party (opposite). There’s nothing better than watching an AMC movie and having Paul objects in life were love, the creation and enjoyment of aesthetic experi-

ALEN ALEN MACWEENEY © PHOTOS (MANTELPIECE); X2) LONDON NATIONAL PORTRAIT (VINTAGE GALLERY, make some exquisite thing for us to eat,” McCluskey says, “but I also ence and the pursuit of knowledge.”

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0412_WSJ_Bohemians_02.indd 72 3/2/12 1:31:34 AM 0412_WSJ_Bohemians_03.indd 73 3/2/12 9:39:55 PM A HOMEGROWN By marrying garmento-style know-how with bold, young talent, ASHIONAndrew Rosen has swiftly amassed an impressive stable of designers. Meet the one man in America on track to MOGUL compete with Europe’s luxury heavyweights

BY JOSHUA LEVINE PHOTOGRAPH BY TINA BARNEY

NDREW ROSEN KEEPS MOST of his family photos in the Theory has 219 stores in 18 countries, most of its sales still come from study of his spare, light-filled duplex apartment on the 49th the U.S. and Japan. Rosen would like to change that. So last year he floor of the Trump Tower on Central Park West, whose view lured slim, doe-eyed Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens to Theory seems to extend all the way to California. A large black- as artistic director and creator of his own more expensive line, and-white shows his father, Carl Rosen, in the 1960s. Carl, Theyskens’ Theory. Theyskens, though beloved by the fashion press, A sleek and self-assured in a crisp suit, stands next to a tall, had flamed out at several big European houses; the rap was, he makes rumpled fellow whom Rosen identifies as David Dubinsky, the legendary beautiful clothes that have a hard time making money because they head of the International Ladies Garment Workers Union. cost too much. This didn’t scare Rosen, whose Seventh Avenue savvy Carl Rosen was the CEO and largest shareholder of a big dressmaker counterbalances Theyskens’s exuberance. named Puritan Fashions. Dubinsky looked out for thousands of ladies What sold Theyskens was Rosen’s nouveau-garmento gestalt. “I who cut cloth, made patterns and sewed on the factory floors of Seventh discovered the marvelous structure Andrew built at Theory,” says Avenue. What the photo reveals is a kind of garmento summit meeting, a Theyskens, explaining why he came west. “It was a wonderful sur- snapshot from a lost world where these two men were kings. prise. I thought I would have to adapt my methods to make my designs Rosen says he isn’t sure why he hung this picture. It doesn’t have at affordable prices, but it turns out to be just the opposite.” any sentimental value, and he never even met Dubinsky. But it con- At the same time he’s been running Theory, Rosen has also bank- jures a world where clothes were made here and made better, and rolled a string of hot young American talent, teaching them how to when craft was a more important principle than design. The younger turn their ideas into well-made garments that sell. His combined per- Rosen put a modern spin on these values, and with the creator of the sonal investments of under $10 million have turned into businesses brand Theory turned himself into an avatar of everything that photo with sales of over $300 million in 2012. Among the brands Rosen has represents. A very rich avatar. nurtured are Alice + Olivia and Rag & Bone. “We don’t have a Gucci or Andrew Rosen’s father was a bombastic character who played gin LVMH in this country,” says “Vogue” editor in chief Anna Wintour, “but rummy with William Holden and pretty much invented designer jeans. in his own way, Andrew is creating a kind of American equivalent.” His son soaked up his father’s mastery of the clothing business but not There’s a big difference, though, and it lies at the heart of Rosen’s his bluster. He avoids the limelight his father basked in. So it’s easy success. He’s not looking to build a personal fiefdom. In fact, he goes to overlook the progress that has made him among the most potent out of his way to avoid one. When Rag & Bone needed more cash, figures in the U.S. clothing business today. Rosen ponied up but didn’t ask to boost his 30 percent stake. “He told In 1997, Rosen cofounded Theory with Elie Tahari and pioneered us, ‘Why would I want to discourage you guys?’�” says brand cofounder the idea of nondesigner chic—in fashion jargon, it’s called the contem- Marcus Wainwright. In fact, Rosen doesn’t have a bigger ownership porary market. Rosen bet that he could build a business on unfussy, stake than his design partners in any of their businesses. well-made pants and shirts with no auteur behind them, and he won Word got around that Rosen was some kind of fashion-biz guru big. When he started, Rosen figured he’d be lucky if Theory hit sales of who would freely dispense the lost wisdom of Seventh Avenue and $30 million. Sales this year will exceed $700 million. would nudge his design partners back in line only if he felt they had Nondesigner chic has its limits, however, particularly in places strayed from their own path. Not surprisingly, designers like this idea like China where new money likes a fancy name on a label. Although a lot. In a notable coup, Rosen led a group of investors in buying a 50

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0412_WSJ_Rosen_01.indd 74 3/1/12 9:31:41 AM 0412_WSJ_Rosen_03.indd 75 3/2/12 4:52:56 PM percent interest in Proenza Schouler last summer. “We met with a lot of ballbreaker business guys with money, but Andrew let us keep con- In 1997, trol, and he felt like a friend,” says the label’s Lazaro Hernandez. “I S (COLOVOS)

Rosen AGES (COLOVOS) mean, we hang out. If we wanted to be employees, we would have gone to one of the big vacant houses of Europe.” fi gured he’d When Rosen looks further out, he sees a city on the hill. Actually, it’s be lucky more a garment center on the hill—the old garment center his father and David Dubinsky once ruled, but reborn and reconfi gured for a if Theory hit world with China in it. He’s been working hard behind the scenes with sales of the New York City Economic Development Corporation to develop DEZ); DEZ); DONALD BOWERS/GETTY IMAGE a new hub of clothing manufacturing and design in Manhattan. “I $30 million. want to put together a state-of-the-art building with manufacturing, cutting, sewing, sample making all together—that’s what they do in This year, China,” says Rosen, who already manufactures 30 percent of Theory’s sales will clothes and 65 percent of Rag & Bone in New York City. “It would be tough to pull off , but I think we could make New York a center for exceed $700 tailored, sophisticated clothing.” Which might explain what that old million. black-and-white photo is doing on Rosen’s wall: It represents not just

where he’s coming from, but where he wants to go. AND AND MCCOLLOUGH HERNAN ROSEN;

EW YORK CITY’S GARMENT DISTRICT is about a mile and several eons from Andrew Rosen’s offi ces at 38 Gansevoort Street. He negotiated a long-term lease on the low brick NEW THEORY building, just when Manhattan’s Meatpacking District was Olivier Theyskens trading pork for prosciutto. In 2003, Rosen and Tahari sold debuted his N Theory to Japan’s Link Holdings, but Rosen stayed on to Theory collection in 2010. run it and he’s still there. This almost never happens after a buyout— “I mean, who does that?” Rosen says. One reason Rosen remains at Theory is the elbow room that the par- ent company gives its busy chief executive. It doesn’t mind, for instance, college, when she was designing websites for a living and kooky pants that Rosen owns a piece of Alice + Olivia, Rag & Bone, Gryphon, Kiki de with vertical stripes and bright colors on the side. Rosen didn’t need a Montparnasse and Aiko. Rosen points out that it’s not his job to run website, but he dug the pants. these operations, but that’s a dodge. There’s nothing remotely passive “He said, ‘I want to be your partner,’ and I was 24, and I’m like,

about any of his investments. He is on constant call as “mentor, father ‘Um, I’m just making my fun pants,’” says Bendet. She and Rosen talk ROSEN AND IGHT, NEVILLE); X. (THEYSKENS DAVID PRUTTING/BFANYC.COM and shrink,” says Khajak Keledjian, whose chain of 26 trendy Intermix every morning now. “He’s never tried to change anything I’ve done— DYNAMIC stores counts Rosen’s various brands among its best sellers. he just makes it more effi cient. He’s on his way to the acupuncturist, DUO Proenza For Rosen the professional is intensely personal. His working and it’s like—boom!—‘Stacey, I passed this store on 65th and Madison Schouler’s Lazaro world is peopled by parents and children. “Whoever Andrew works and it’s perfect for Alice + Olivia!’ And I’m like, ‘Andrew, I’m having a Hernandez with becomes a big part of his life,” says his friend Kenneth Cole. In C-section at the moment,’ and he says, ‘Oh, don’t worry, we can get it (left) and Jack McCollough. his younger days, he formed intimate bonds with a series of men- opened by the end of the month.’�” tors. Today, Rosen is the mentor, or as Alice + Olivia’s Stacey Bendet Not that he’s a soft touch for any charming young designer. When calls him, “the godfather.” Bendet met Rosen when she was just out of Rosen met his girlfriend, Jenny Dyer, in 2007, she was creating a line of dresses under her name. It was a pretty good business, too, with sales You can find traces of this DNA in Theory’s genes. In 1996, Elie around $2 million a year. When Rosen dropped by her London studio, “When I Tahari brought back a swatch from Italy’s Milior fabric mill. It was a JEWELS IN HIS CROWN Dyer says, “I got all excited thinking he might want to invest.” Instead, visualize a piece of wool interwoven with lycra fibers to give it natural stretch. he asked her out to the races. They live together now, and Dyer can There was nothing like this on the market, and Rosen and Tahari claim credit for their apartment’s unfussy elegance. Her dress busi- garmento, knew quickly what it meant. At the time, most women’s pants were ness? “I guess I got her to close it,” says Rosen a little sheepishly. high-waisted, with pleats to give the belly a bit of swelling room. M I think of a Rosen is at the office every day by 10 o’clock. In a car ride downtown With this new fabric, you could get rid of the pleats and lower the E.CO last October, Rosen is chatting with Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman guy with waist. The pants would look sexier and feel better at the same time— CHIV and CEO of J.Crew and an old friend. Drexler is in China, and Rosen has the holy grail of pants. NKAR a bad just gotten back from visiting Theory’s stores in Shanghai. Rosen is a lit- “I said to Andrew, ‘Stretch is the future!’�” recalls Tahari, who also /TRU tle dubious, and he wants to hear what Drexler thinks of their prospects. combover, ran and still runs his own successful clothing brand. “Andrew said, ONS ONS “They understand Louis Vuitton,” Rosen tells him, “but they don’t ‘Nah!’ So I made him a pair of pants and put them on his desk. Ten CATI understand contemporary fashion.” That means they may still be too but it’s also minutes later he says, ‘I can’t believe it!’” UBLI

ST P green to really get Theory. Drexler agrees. He and Rosen like to bounce a term of They worked out of Tahari’s space in the W.R. Grace building on

É NA ideas off one another because they share a common sensibility that Sixth Avenue, with both of them putting up cash and Rosen running runs straight down from people like Carl Rosen and David Dubinsky. To honor,” says the operation. The styles were simple, no razzamatazz. “I didn’t want COND explain this sensibility, there’s just no getting around the g-word. a designer identification,” says Rosen. “I wanted to make clothes that RAG & OLIVIERER PROENZANZA HELMUTUT R/© Millard

ELIE “When I visualize a garmento, I think of a guy with a bad comb- were real, that made the women who put them on feel sexy and good BONE THEYSKENSENS SCHOULERLER LANGG over, but it’s also a term of honor,” says Drexler. “Andrew’s father Drexler, CEO about the way the clothes fit and felt. I wanted to have a company that ARCH THE FASHION UPSTARTS Rosen owns a THE ARTIST IN RESIDENCE Rosen hired THE LATEST PRIZE Last year, Rosen THE MINIMALISTS Husband and wife was a legend when I was a young department store buyer. My father was based on the substance of what we were doing, not the style.” 30 percent stake in the New York City– Theyskens after the Belgian designer scored big when he led a group of Michael and Nicole Colovos moved from of J.Crew. based brand. Owners Marcus Wainwright fizzled at several Paris fashion houses. investors in buying a 50 percent stake in Los Angeles to New York City to design Helmut bought buttons and piece goods. There’s not many of us left with that Rosen gets that substance from his own mini-garment center and David Neville spend time with In 2010, Rosen named him artistic Proenza Schouler, which won the CFDA Lang in 2006. They say Rosen encourages good garmento DNA. Andrew’s one of the few—he sees things the way across the street from Theory’s headquarters—he recently added TRUNKARCHIVE.COM Rosen in his Hamptons summer home. director of Theory. Womenswear Designer of the Year in 2011. them to be true to their own voice. TOP: PATRICK DEMARCHELIER/© CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS NAST PUBLICATIONS/TRUNKARCHIVE.COM; /TRUNKARCHIVE.COM; BOTTOM: BOTTOM:FIRSTVIEW FIRSTVIEW (4); WILL RAGOZZINO/BFANYC.COM (4); WILL RAGOZZINO/BFANYC.COM(WAINWRIGHT, ROSEN (WAINWRAND NEVILLE); DAVID X. PRUTTING/BFANYC.COM (THEYSKENS AND ROSEN; MCCOLLOUGH AND HERNANDEZ); DONALD BOWERS/GETTY IM TRUNKARCHIVE.COM they are because he’s been there and done it.” 12,000 square feet of workshop space to the 18,000 he already had.

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0412_WSJ_Rosen_02.indd 76 3/2/12 1:36:24 AM 0412_WSJ_Rosen_03.indd 77 3/2/12 4:52:59 PM It’s clear as he prowls the cutting rooms that this is where he most even maintained close ties with the man who engineered his ouster: likes to be. In one room a group of young men are looking over some Last year, Rosen and Barry Schwartz partnered to buy two thorough- Theory menswear samples. Rosen picks up a simple three-quarter- breds. “He could have been quite perturbed and he could have held length outer jacket, puts his hands in the pocket and looks in the a grudge, but he didn’t,” says Miles Rubin, a major Puritan share- mirror. “We don’t need waterproof pockets,” he announces briskly, holder who still serves as trustee of Carl Rosen’s estate. “Andrew and dashes off . doesn’t carry grudges.” “I wouldn’t say my strength as a senior executive is managing peo- After Puritan, Rosen spent six years as chief executive of Anne ple or analyzing reports—not that I can’t do that,” says Rosen. “My Klein. It was a frustrating experience. Rosen found himself hamstrung strength is being involved in the work the company is doing—where by the label’s owners, Frank Mori and Tomio Taki, despite their friend- we’re going to manufacture clothes, whether we’re going to buy this ship. He was fired in 1996, and although he concedes that the end was fabric or that fabric, whether we believe in leather this season or fur. not a happy one, he says he has left any rancor behind. I’m still mixing it up in the manufacturing, the work room, the sam- More surprising still is Rosen’s continued close relationship with pling room. That’s what I really enjoy.” Elie Tahari. The two met during a trying time in both men’s lives; At 55, Andrew Rosen is a good-looking guy who has made his peace Rosen had just left Anne Klein and been through a divorce the year with the fact that he’s looked good his whole life. “Andrew always before. Tahari, an Israeli orphan with a rough-and-tumble youth, came in to work in Armani with pleats. He was a very dapper guy,” had found success early, but he got stuck in the quicksand of New says Tahari. Today the peacocking is gone, but not the attentiveness: York nightlife. The jeans, T-shirt and sneakers are carefully chosen and expensive. “Andrew grew up healthy with good family values. I grew up wild His curly gray hair is studiously messy, and his thick black eyeglass in the street,” Tahari says. “Andrew feels that anything he thinks, he frames are downtown dorky. can get. He comes into a room, people applaud. I feel unworthy and Andrew Rosen also picked up his father’s aff ability, although it’s stay in the kitchen, but if you need a lightbulb changed, I’ll change it; a more low-key, less rambunctious version. People liked Carl and the kitchen sink is broke, I’ll fix it. We worked amazingly together—we ALL IN THE FAMILY Rosen’s father, Carl people like Andrew, a fact that was lost on neither of them. They did never had fights. He did his thing, I did mine.” (above, right, in things for others, but they both knew instinctively that this was also In 2003, Link Holdings, Theory’s Japanese licensee (owned partially a picture that hangs the best way to do business without making any act of generosity feel by Fast Retailing, which today owns it in full), offered to buy Rosen and in his son’s study) like a quid pro quo. “Andrew is one of those guys, no matter what I anything like that,” says Rosen. “My dad was good in making me feel Office space Rosen’s Tahari out. Tahari didn’t want to sell. “We were making $20 million a helped pioneer ask him, it’s always yes,” says Steven Kolb, who runs the Council of like I didn’t have to be like him, that I could be myself.” HQ is in Manhattan’s year in profits,” he says. “I never had margins like that in 30 years of designer jeans with Fashion Designers of America. “But I come from the nonprofi t world, Carl Rosen was more a gambler than a breeder, but in 1972 he got Meatpacking District, doing business.” It was Rosen who wanted out. “I saw my dad stuck in Calvin Klein. Rosen in a building he with children Austin and I know that giving works only if there’s a get in that give.” The very lucky, spending $32,000 on a horse that became a champion filly had the foresight to his business until the day he died,” Rosen says. “I wanted the chance to and Ashley (left). CFDA looks at 100 applicants for its fashion fund awards—Proenza two years later. Carl named the horse Chris Evert, after the tennis move into before make choices in my life, and not to be a slave to my business.” Austin, a fourth- Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough won in 2004. champion with whom he developed a line of licensed clothing. When the area became a Since Rosen was running the company, they sold. Tahari got $53 mil- generation garmento, shopping and nightlife has worked at Rag “Andrew gets access to that, and that’s a good thing,” says Kolb. Carl died, Andrew got his horses—including Chris Evert’s offspring. lion and a lucrative consulting contract, and Rosen got $49 million but

OM mecca. On the ground & Bone and Theory. The estate sold off the last of its horses in 2005, pocketing around floor is the flagship kept 11 percent of the business. The brand’s holding company, at this nyc.c OSEN’S EASY CONFIDENCE comes naturally as third- NYC.COM $43 million. retail store for Theory. point called Link Theory Holdings, brought the company public in 2005 bfa

generation garmento royalty. His grandfather Arthur O/ Andrew Rosen generally spends the early-morning hours at home at a price that valued Theory somewhere near $500 million. A year zin

Rosen founded the Puritan Dress Company in Waltham, O overseeing his own horse-breeding business—he has around 40 thor- later, Rosen sold his remaining 11 percent stake at a much higher valua- Massachusetts, in 1910. Several decades later, in the oughbreds stabled in Kentucky and England. He may have inherited tion; it was more than he or Tahari had made in the initial buyout.

1950s, Gloria Swanson pitched Puritan’s Forever Young ill Ragg his passion for the races from his father, but over the years he’s worked Tahari was furious, but not at Rosen, he says. In the end, Tahari w R cocktail dresses. As happens often in dynastic family hard to turn himself into a much shrewder and more successful horse- sued everybody, including Rosen, for $180 million. He didn’t get any- THE KING AT PLAY Rosen sen; picked up his father’s love business sagas, it fell to the second generation to transform a hum- RO man. “He’s got a 20-year plan, not a two-year plan,” says John Stuart, where, but Rosen’s friends never forgave him, and they often find it of horse racing. When he first drum business with a combination of chutzpah and panache. Carl ew a thoroughbred bloodstock agent who has worked with both Rosens remarkable that Rosen could and did. “I think he was wrong,” says DR met designer Jenny Dyer Rosen supplied these qualities in spades. He was a commanding pres- in Lexington, Kentucky. For instance, Rosen’s horses usually start Rosen. “But, look, Elie and I had so many great years together.” f an (below), he asked her to the ence, and he liked to swing for the fences. In 1965 his Youthquake line O their careers in England. “They get to gallop on the grass in a straight “I said to If Rosen cared, which he doesn’t appear to, he might enjoy reflect-

races. They now live together. esy produced some of the fi rst miniskirts in the U.S. RT line instead of getting chewed up on curving U.S. tracks,” says Stuart. Andrew, ing on the fact that he’s managed to one-up his father in all the activi- But it was another idea, in the late ’70s, that transformed his busi- “Almost no one does that, and it’s a lot more expensive, but Andrew ‘Stretch is ties that occupied so much of their lives. He’ll tell you himself that he’s

ness. “Calvin was in Studio 54 in the wee hours of the morning when ages; c Ou feels they’ll last longer that way.” Rosen’s filly, Theyskens’ Theory, was a better golfer, a better fisherman, and a better horseman. People who M

a guy sent by Carl came up and asked him if he wanted to put his y i among the fastest two-year-olds in England in 2010. the future!’ ” know them both well say he’s also a better garmento. name on a pair of jeans,” recalls Barry Schwartz, Calvin Klein’s busi- TT At 19, Andrew started working at a knitting mill his father owned on “Carl was a back-of-the-envelope guy—quick at making decisions,”

ness partner. “It was a quick negotiation. Carl proposed giving us $1 in; ge Long Island, learning how fabrics are made and playing golf with the recalls says Miles Rubin. “He had the conviction that if the sales were there,

for a $18.75 pair of jeans that sold for $40 retail. He projected selling RaM customers. From there, he worked in one of Puritan’s factories with pat- everything else would take care of itself. Andrew has learned to be much in Elie Tahari. 350,000 pairs a year by the fi fth year. We sold that number the fi rst RT tern makers and sewers, and he also learned the art of cost estimation. more systematic in the way he makes decisions, and he’s the more con- year, and we wound up selling 15 million pairs a year at the peak. It was Ma In 1982, Carl Rosen found out he had cancer. He died shortly “Andrew said, sistent manager. I think he’s very proud of his father—it’s as if his father a huge part of our business.” by f. thereafter. By then, Andrew Rosen was effectively running the com- ‘Nah!’ So I were around today—but he’s moved past what he learned from Carl.” HeD

No one ever accused Carl Rosen of not stopping to smell the ap pany, which at the time had annual sales of $250 million. It was a Sitting in the office with Andrew Rosen at most of his meetings roses, or, in his case, the horse manure. “Carl would call me up and gR tough time in the jeans business generally, and Puritan was faring made him a is his 24-year-old son, Austin (Rosen also has a 26-year-old daugh- say, wanna have lunch?” says Schwartz. “That was code. It meant HOTO poorly. Its stock, which had once sold at close to $27 a share, was pair of pants ter, Ashley). Instead of going to college, Austin is learning the ropes

the driver would be waiting downstairs to take me to the helicop- sen, p down to $12.50. Calvin Klein and Barry Schwartz offered $16.50 and from Andrew the way Andrew learned them from Carl. He’s worked at

ter. We’d hop over to Belmont Park, bet a few races and come back. RO threatened a hostile takeover if the Rosen family turned them down. and put Theory and Rag & Bone, and he’s now involved as a partner in a small ew

Carl could spend hours handicapping one race—he was from the old DR The family negotiated a deal at $17.50 a share; the company was sold them on his clothing company. On Austin’s phone is a list of things his father says

breed of handicappers. When he won, he won big—I saw him have f an for roughly $61 million. all the time: “If everything was perfect, they wouldn’t need us”; “That’s O huge days.” The move made financial sense for the family, but it transformed desk. Ten a long run for a short slide”; “The whale that spouts gets harpooned.” esy Andrew Rosen was raised in his father’s world of horses, fi shing, RT Andrew Rosen overnight from a merchant prince to a hired hand. minutes later “It’s amazing—it’s so natural with him,” says Austin Rosen. “It’s

golf and clothing, and he took naturally to all of them. He was the p: c Ou Another person might have left in a huff, but Rosen stayed on for not so easy to teach, though. You have to see it.” The two Rosens agazine TO

Benjamin of the family, the adored youngest child among two girls M four more years. The man who replaced him, former Saks chief exec - he says, ‘I can’t play golf and go fishing a lot. “I’m not really so into the horses,” says ROM wsj. wsj. and two boys. “I was the baby, so there was no rebellion or confl ict or FROMf TOP: COURTESY OF ANDREW ROSEN, PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARTINF. RAMIN; GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF ANDREW ROSEN; WILL RAGGOZINO/BFA WSJ. MAGAZINE utive Robert Suslow, became one of his most valued mentors. He believe it!’ ” Austin, “but I’m trying.”

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0412_WSJ_Rosen_02.indd 78 3/2/12 1:36:28 AM 0412_WSJ_Rosen_03.indd 79 3/2/12 4:53:01 PM THE This season’s suit, in a relaxed cut and neutral color, has a laid-back nonchalance that feels just as right on the street as it does in the corner offi ce

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0412_WSJ_Suits_01.indd 86 2/29/12 10:33:04 AM 0412_WSJ_Suits_02.indd 87 3/1/12 5:07:03 PM What Did J.D. Salinger, Leo Tolstoy, Nikola Tesla and Sarah Bernhardt ; ; POPPERFOTO/GETTY POPPERFOTO/GETTY IMAGES; IMAGES; SSPL/GETTYSSPL/GETTY IMAGES IMAGES Have in

Common? MY SWEET LORD The swami Vivekananda, the Bengali monk who brought yoga to the United States, meditating in London, in 1896.

Y THE LATE 1960S, the most famous writer in America had become a rec- as Starbucks. Vivekananda would have been puzzled, if not somewhat alarmed. “As luse, having forsaken his dazzling career. Nevertheless, J.D. Salinger often soon as I think of myself as a little body,” he warned, “I want to preserve it, protect it, came to Manhattan, staying at his parents’ sprawling apartment on Park to keep it nice, at the expense of other bodies. Then you and I become separate.” For Avenue and 91st Street. While he no longer visited with his editors at “The Vivekananda, who established the fi rst ever Vedanta Center, in Manhattan in 1896, BNew Yorker,” he was keen to spend time with his spiritual teacher, Swami Nikhi- yoga meant just one thing: “the realization of God.” lananda, the founder of the Ramakrishna-Vivekananda Center, located, then as now, After an initial dalliance in the late 1940s with Zen—a spiritual path without a in a townhouse just three blocks away, at 17 East 94th Street. God—Salinger discovered Vedanta, which he found infi nitely more consoling. “Unlike Though the iconic author of “The Catcher in the Rye” and “Franny and Zooey” pub- Zen,” Salinger’s biographer, Kenneth Slawenski, points out, “Vedanta off ered a path lished his last story in 1965, he did not stop writing. From the early 1950s onward, he to a personal relationship with God…[and] a promise that he could obtain a cure for The surprising—and continuing—influence of maintained a lively correspondence with several Vedanta monks and fellow devotees. his depression….and fi nd God, and through God, peace.” After all, the central, guiding light of Salinger’s spiritual quest was the teachings Finding peace would, however, be a lifelong battle. In 1975, Salinger wrote to Swami Vivekananda, the pied piper of the global yoga movement of Vivekananda, the Calcutta-born monk who popularized Vedanta and yoga in the another monk at the New York City center about his own daily struggle, citing a West at the end of the 19th century. text of the eighth-century Indian mystic Shankara as a cautionary tale: “In the

BY A.L. BARDACH CLOCKWISECLOCKWISE FROMFROM TOPTOP LEFT: LEFT: SANSAN DIEGODIEGO HISTORICALHISTORICAL SOCIETY/HULTONSOCIETY/HULTON ARCHIVEARCHIVE COLLECTION/GETTYCOLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES;IMAGES; EFIMOVICHEFIMOVICHILYA ILYA REPIN/GETTYREPIN/GETTY IMAGESIMAGES SOCIETYSOCIETY COURTESY COURTESY OF OF VEDANTA VEDANTA These days yoga is off ered up in classes and studios that have become as ubiquitous forest-tract of sense pleasures there prowls a huge tiger called the mind. Let good

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0412_WSJ_Vivekananda_02.indd 88 3/2/12 4:09:45 AM 0412_WSJ_Vivekananda_02.indd 89 3/2/12 4:09:49 AM people who have a longing for Liberation never go there.” Salinger wrote, Although Vivekananda was a Western-educated intellectual of encyclopedic eru- contained between my hat and my boots.” Though the two never met, Vivekananda “I suspect that nothing is truer than that,” confessing despondently, “and dition, “the descendant of 50 generations of lawyers,” as he would say, Ramakrishna hailed Whitman as “the Sannyasin of America.” yet I allow myself to be mauled by that old tiger almost every wakeful was for all intents and purposes illiterate. Born Gadadhar Chattopadhyay, The Academy, however, was a bit slower to embrace Eastern thought and litera- minute of my life.” Ramakrishna had not an iota of interest in schooling beyond the study of scripture ture. It wasn’t until after an electrifying lecture by Vivekananda at Harvard’s Graduate It was his daily mauling by the “huge tiger” and his dreaded depressions and prayer. Fortunately, that amply met the job requirements of his post as a priest Philosophical Club on March 25, 1896, that Eastern Philosophy departments became that led Salinger to abandon his literary ambitions in favor of spiritual at the Dakshineswar Kali Temple. According to numerous fi rsthand, contemporane- a staple at Ivy League colleges. ones. Salinger—who appears to have had a nervous breakdown of sorts ous accounts, Ramakrishna—who is revered as a saint in much of India and as an Fascinated by the erudite and polyglot monk—who could pass an entire day sitting upon his return from the gruesome front lines of World War II—subscribed avatar by many—spent a good deal of his short life in samadhi, or an ecstatic state. motionless in silent meditation—the esteemed philosopher William James roped in to Vivekananda’s view of the mind as a drunken monkey who is stung by a On a daily basis, sitting or standing, he was many of his colleagues, students and friends scorpion and then consumed by a demon. At the same time, Vivekananda often observed slipping into a transported to attend Vivekananda’s Harvard lecture. promised hope and solace—writing that the “same mind, when subdued state that he described as “God conscious- They were not disappointed. “The theory and controlled, becomes a most trusted friend and helper, guaranteeing ness,” existing with neither food nor sleep. of evolution, and prana [energy] and akasa peace and happiness.” It was precisely the consolation that Salinger so He died in 1886 at age 50. [space] is exactly what your modern science desperately sought. And by 1965 he was ready to renounce his once gritty Though Ramakrishna spoke in a village has,” their exotic visitor blithely informed pursuit of literary celebrity. idiom, invoking homespun local parables, them. Nor were they unamused. When word about the “Bengali saint” spread asked, “Swami, what do you think about food LTHOUGH ALL BUT FORGOTTEN by America’s 20 million would- through the chattering classes of India in and breathing?” he replied, “I am for both.” be yoginis, clad in their fi nest Lululemon, Vivekananda was the the 1870s like a monsoon. Many who fl ocked The evening ended with the turbaned monk, Bengali monk who introduced the word “yoga” into the national to him—and declared him a divine incarna- “dressed in rich dark red robes,” receiving COMING TO AMERICA Vivekananda, center, at the Parliament of Religions, in Chicago in 1893, where conversation. In 1893, outfi tted in a red, fl owing turban and yellow Americans first heard the Bengali monk speak. tion—were educated as lawyers, doctors an off er to chair Harvard’s new department. robesA belted by a scarlet sash, he had delivered a show-stopping speech in and engineers and were often the gradu- Columbia University promptly made its own Chicago. The event was the tony Parliament of Religions, which had been ates of British-run Christian schools. His bid for Vivekananda—who declined both, convened as a spiritual complement to the World’s Fair, showcasing the industrial benches to get near to him,” prompting one wag to crack wise that if the 30-year-old closest and most infl uential disciple, how- noting his vows of renunciation. and technological achievements of the age. Vivekananda “can resist that onslaught, [he is] indeed a god.” ever, was Vivekananda (born Narendranath At a dinner party in his honor the follow- On its opening day, September 11, Vivekananda, who appeared to be meditating “No doubt the vast majority of those present hardly knew why they had been Datta in 1863 to an affl uent family), whom ing night, William James and Vivekananda onstage, was summoned to speak and did so without notes. “Sisters and Brothers of so powerfully moved,” Christopher Isherwood wrote a half century later, surmis- he charged with carrying the message of scurried off to a corner by themselves, America,” he began, in a sonorous voice tinged with “a delightful slight Irish brogue,” ing that a “strange kind of subconscious telepathy” had infected the hall, beginning Vedanta to the world. where they were observed nattering away according to one listener, attributable to his Trinity with Vivekananda’s fi rst words, which have resonated, for until midnight. The next morning, James College–educated professor in India. “It fi lls my heart with some, long after. Asked about the origins of “My Sweet ERTAINLY, A SMATTERING OF East- sent word inviting him to dinner at his own joy unspeakable...” Lord,” George Harrison replied that “the song really came ern thought had already traveled home that evening. And over the next week, Then something unprecedented happened, presaging “He is the most from Swami Vivekananda, who said, ‘If there is a God, we to the West before Vivekanan- James would dash into Boston to hear his the phenomenon decades later that greeted the Beatles must see him. And if there is a soul, we must perceive it.’�” da’s arrival in the U.S. In the other lectures. (one of whom, George Harrison, would become a lifelong brilliant wise man,” The teachings of Vedanta are rooted in the Vedas, ancient 1820s,C Ralph Waldo Emerson had snared a “He has evidently swept Professor James Vivekananda devotee). The previously sedate crowd of scriptures going back several thousand years that also copy of the Bhagavad Gita and found him- off his feet,” wrote a Harvard colleague. 4,000-plus attendees rose to their feet and wildly cheered Leo Tolstoy waxed. inform Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism. The Vedic texts self enchanted. “I owed a magnifi cent day Indeed, the eminent scholar was deferential the visiting monk, who, having never before addressed a “It is doubtful another of the Upanishads enshrine a core belief that God is within to the Bhagavad Gita,” Emerson wrote in to a fault with his newfound Bengali friend, large gathering, was as shocked as his audience. “I thank and without—that the divine is everywhere. The Bhagavad his journal in 1831. The Gita would inform referring to him as Master. More impor- you in the name of the most ancient order of monks in the man has ever risen Gita (Song of God) is another sacred text or gospel, whereas his Transcendentalist essays, in which he tant, in his seminal book “The Varieties of world,” he responded, fl ushed with emotion. “I thank you Hinduism is actually a coinage popularized by Vivekananda wrote of the “Over-Soul,” that part of the Religious Experience,” James relied upon above this selfless, LETTERS OF AFFECTION A letter from J.D. Salinger to Swami Adiswarananda in the name of the mother of religions, and I thank you in to describe a faith of diverse and myriad beliefs. individual that is one with the universe— of New York’s Ramakrishna-Vivekananda Center Vivekananda’s “Raja Yoga,” a treatise on the name of millions and millions of Hindu people of all spiritual meditation.” Vivekananda’s genius was to simplify Vedantic thought invoking the Vedantic precepts of the the discipline of meditation practice from classes and sects.” to a few accessible teachings that Westerners found irre- Atman and Brahman. (In a tidy historical twist, one of Emerson’s relatives, Ellen which he quoted extensively: “All the diff erent steps in yoga are intended to bring us Annie Besant, a British Theosophist and a conference sistible. God was not the capricious tyrant in the heavens Waldo, became a devotee of Vivekananda, and faithfully transcribed the dictated scientifi cally to the superconscious state, or samadhi.” delegate, described Vivekananda’s impact, writing that he was “a striking fi gure, avowed by Bible-thumpers, but rather a power that resided in the human heart. text of his fi rst book, “Raja Yoga,” in 1895.) Unbeknownst to him, Vivekananda had hit the piñata of infl uence: James was clad in yellow and orange, shining like the sun of India in the midst of the heavy “Each soul is potentially divine,” he promised. “The goal is to manifest that divinity Emerson’s student and fellow Transcendentalist, Henry David Thoreau, would arguably the country’s premier intellectual. And it hardly hurt that his brother was atmosphere of Chicago…a lion head, piercing eyes, mobile lips, movements swift and within by controlling nature, external and internal.” And to close the deal for the study Indian thought even more avidly and crafted his own practice—living as a the master novelist Henry James. abrupt.” The Parliament, she said, was “enraptured; the huge multitude hung upon fence-sitters, he punched up Vedanta’s embrace of other faiths and their prophets. secular monk, as it were, by Walden Pond. In 1875, Walt Whitman was given a copy of Along with the James brothers, a half dozen socially prominent and wealthy his words.” When he was done, the convocation rose again and cheered him even Christ and Buddha were incarnations of the divine, he said, no less than Krishna and the Gita as a Christmas gift, and it is heard unmistakably in “Leaves of Grass” in lines women immeasurably facilitated the visiting monk—who not infrequently encoun- TOP: F. MARTIN TOP: RAMIN; F. BOTTOM FROM LEFT JACK MANNING/NEW TO VIA GETTYRIGHT: YORK TIMES ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES; CO./GETTY IMAGES; HULTON IMAGES; KEYSTONE-FRANCE/GAMMA-KEYSTONE © B ETTMANN/CORBIS; DOUGLASS GLASS/PAUL POPPER/POPPERFOTO/GETTY IMAGES; APIC/GETTY IMAGES more thunderously. Another delegate described “scores of women walking over the his own teacher, Ramakrishna. TOP: COURTESY OF VEDANTA SOCIETY; BOTTOM FROM LEFT © BETTMANN/CORBIS TO RIGHT: ARCHIVE/GETTY PALM/RSCH/REDFERNS; IMAGES; SUPERSTOCK/GETTYHULTON IMAGES; APIC/GETTY IMAGES; such as “I pass death with the dying and birth with the new-wash’d babe, and am not tered some racism on his U.S. lecture tours. Sara Bull in Cambridge, Josephine

ADMIRERS ADMIRERS

John D. Rockefeller Henry James and William James Aldous Huxley Igor Stravinsky Henry Miller W. Somerset Maugham Jane Addams Christopher Isherwood Carl Jung Joseph Campbell Emma Calvé

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0412_WSJ_Vivekananda_03.indd 90 3/2/12 11:25:53 PM 0412_WSJ_Vivekananda_03.indd 91 3/2/12 11:25:56 PM might move in. Told that a monastery accepts only men, Garbo became testy. “That doesn’t matter!” she thumped. “I’ll put on trousers.” Henry Miller, who made headlines with his torrid and banned “Tropic of Cancer,” visited with Prabhavananda at the Hollywood center, devoured a small library of Vedanta books and settled down in Big Sur in 1944. Throughout his memoir, “The Air Conditioned Nightmare,” Miller invokes Vivekananda as the great sage of the modern age and the consummate messenger to rescue the West from spiritual bankruptcy. Isherwood’s commitment to Vedanta, like Salinger’s, was unswerving and life- long. Over the next 20 years, he co-translated with Prabhavananda the Bhagavad Gita, Patanjali’s “Yoga Aphorisms” and Shankara’s “Crest Jewel of Discrimination,” and was the author of several books and tracts on Vivekananda and Ramakrishna. New York City Hollywood Santa Barbara, California Chicago Washington, D.C. Huxley, however, in his fi nal years turned over his spiritual quest to his second wife, Laura, and pharmaceuticals—an unequivocal no-no among Vedantins. Believing he had found a shortcut to samadhi, the great man had his wife inject him with LSD VEDANTA CENTERS on his deathbed. “Aldous was the most brilliant man I ever met,” sighed one monk, “but he lacked discrimination.” MacLeod in New York City, and Margaret Noble in London would set up salons and for “hot yoga” classes over meditation. At some point, perhaps in the 1980s, an avidly spread the word—and even followed him to India. With the vast contacts and ancient, profoundly antimaterialist teaching had morphed into a fi tness cult with F ALL THE LITERARY LIONS captivated by Vivekananda and Vedanta, J.D. shrewd networking of these women, his talks in Cambridge and Manhattan became expensive accessories. Salinger perhaps made the fullest commitment and sacrifi ces. In 1952, standing-room-only aff airs attended by the cognoscenti of the day, assorted seekers, Moreover, a few American academics have recently taken to scrutinizing Salinger exhorted his British publisher to pick up the English rights of the and all manner of movers and shakers—from Gertrude Stein, one of James’s students, Vivekananda and Ramakrishna through a Freudian prism, off ering up speculative theo- Gospel, calling it “the religious book of the century.” to John D. Rockefeller. Blessed with “the power of personality,” as Henry James would ries of sexual repression. In turn their critics respond that the two titans from Calcutta OAt the peak of his fame in 1961, Salinger delivered a warmly inscribed copy of say, Vivekananda was the ideal missionary to pitch the message of Vedanta. are incomprehensible via simplistic Freudian prisms. To understand the unconditional “Franny and Zooey,” which is saturated in Vedantic thought and references, to his guru During his lifetime, Vivekananda had another enthusiast in Leo Tolstoy, the titan celibacy of Ramakrishna and Vivekananda, they argue, requires fl uency in 19th-century Nikhilananda, who by then had formally initiated him as a devotee. Salinger confi ded of Russian letters. “He is the most brilliant wise man,” Tolstoy gushed after devour- Bengali and a decidedly non-Western paradigm. to Nikhilananda that he intentionally left a trail of Vedantic clues throughout his work ing “Raja Yoga” in 1896 in a single sitting and reporting it to be “most remarkable… Supporting this view were Christopher Isherwood and his friend Aldous Huxley, from “Franny and Zooey” onward, hoping to entice readers into deeper study. [and] I have received much instruction. The precept of what the true ‘I’ of a man is, is who wrote the introduction to the 1942 English-language edition of “The Gospel of Sri The two men often met at the 94th Street center, where they would discuss the spir- excellent…Yesterday, I read Vivekananda the whole day.” Ramakrishna,” a fi rsthand account (originally published in India in 1898) described itual challenges of renunciation. Salinger would also embark on “personal retreats” at Not long before his death, Tolstoy was still waxing about Vivekananda. “It is by Huxley as “the most profound and subtle utterances about the nature of Ultimate the Vedanta center in Thousand Island Park in the St. Lawrence River. There he would LASTING LEGACY The swami, photographed in California around 1900. The Kali Temple (right), in doubtful in this age that another man has ever risen above this selfl ess, spiritual Reality.” Nikhilananda, Salinger’s guru, did the translation, with assistance from stay in the cottage where Vivekananda had lived and held retreats in the late 1890s. Dakshineswar, where Ramakrishna lived as a priest throughout a life of spiritual enlightenment. meditation.” Huxley, Joseph Campbell and Margaret Wilson, the daughter of the late president. In January 1963, at the New York celebration of Vivekananda’s 100th birthday—pre- Tolstoy and Vivekananda never met, but the opera diva Emma Calvé and the great Huxley and Isherwood were introduced to Vedanta in the Hollywood Hills in the late sided over by the secretary-general of the United Nations, U Thant—Salinger sat front tragedienne Sarah Bernhardt sought him out and became his lifelong friends. 1930s by their countryman, the writer Gerald Heard. In a fi tting counterpart to the New and center at the banquet table. A few weeks later, he published “Raise High the Roof the largest philanthropic organizations in India—providing food, medical assistance Bernhardt, in fact, introduced him to the electromagnetic scientist Nikola Tesla, York Center, the Hollywood Vedanta society was likewise run by a scholarly and charis- Beam, Carpenters and Seymour: An Introduction,” two exquisitely wrought novellas in and disaster relief to millions. His prescription for his countrymen, however, who who was struck by Vivekananda’s knowledge of physics. Both recognized they had matic monk, Prabhavananda, who initiated the English trio of writers. which the suicide of Seymour, arguably Salinger’s alter ego, is the catalyzing event. “I had been demoralized by colonialism, was to borrow a page from the West, he said, been pondering the same thesis on energy—in diff erent languages. Vivekananda Like Nikhilananda, Prabhavananda was a magnet for the intelligentsia, and his have been reading a miscellany of Vedanta all day,” begins one entry in Seymour’s diary and instill itself with the “can do” spirit of Americans. “Strength! Strength is my reli- was keenly interested in the science supporting meditation, and Tesla would cite the lectures often attracted the likes of Igor Stravinsky, Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh in “Raise High.” In Seymour, the narrator declares, “I tend to regard myself as a fourth- gion!” he exhorted. “Religion is not for the weak!” monk’s contributions in his pioneering research of electricity. “Mr. Tesla was charmed and W. Somerset Maugham (and led to his writing “The Razor’s Edge”). Inspired by class Karma Yogini, with perhaps a little Jnana Yoga thrown in to spice up the pot.” India has scheduled a yearlong party to commemorate the 150th anniversary of to hear about the Vedantic prana and akasha and the kalpas [time],” Vivekananda Isherwood—who briefl y lived at the center as a monk—Greta Garbo asked if she too In Salinger’s last published work, “Hapworth 16, 1924,” in 1965 in “The New Vivekananda’s birth, beginning on January 12, 2013. There will be plenty of readings of wrote to a friend. “He thinks he can demonstrate Yorker,” Seymour bursts into a manic tribute to Vivekananda. “Raja-Yoga and Bhakti- his four texts on yoga as a spiritual discipline. Nine volumes chronicle his talks, writ- mathematically that force and matter are reducible Yoga, two heartrending, handy, quite tiny volumes, are ings and ruminations, from screeds against child marriage LADIES WHO LUNCH Vivekananda, surrounded by well-to-do supporters in Pasadena, California, in 1900. to potential energy. I am to go to see him next week perfect for the pockets of any average, mobile boys our to Milton’s “Paradise Lost” to his pet goats and ducks. But to get this mathematical demonstration. In that case age, by Vivekananda of India.” if there were a single takeaway line that boils down his Vedantic cosmology will be placed on the surest of And then America’s beloved novelist stopped publish- teachings to one spiritual bullet point, it would be “You are foundations.” For the monk from Calcutta, there ing. “Name and fame,” eschewed by Ramakrishna, no longer Scores of women not your body.” This might be bad news for the yoga-mat were no inconsistencies between science, evolution was the ticket for the increasingly hermetic Salinger. His crowd. The good news for beleaguered souls like Salinger and religious belief. Faith, he wrote, must be based ferocious literary ambition was now supplanted by what walked over benches was Vivekananda’s corollary: “You are not your mind.” upon direct experience, not religious platitudes. appears to have been a diligent, albeit eccentric, spiritual to get near him, In a 1972 letter to the ailing Nikhilananda in the last More presciently, he warned that India would quest for the next four decades—until his death in 2010. year of his life, Salinger seemed to be saying as much. remain a vanquished, impoverished land until While Salinger is depicted by many chroniclers and prompting one wag to “I sometimes wish that the East had deigned to con- it “elevated” the status of women. And while he contemporaries as an ornery crank, four letters, approved crack, if Vivekananda centrate some small part of its immeasurable genius to admonished Westerners for their preoccupation by Salinger’s estate for use by the New York Ramakrishna- the petty art of science of keeping the body well and fi t. with the material and the physical, he famously Vivekananda Center, suggest a man of singular devotion “can resist that Between extreme indiff erence to the body and the most advised a sickly young devotee to toughen himself and renunciation: “I read a bit from the Gita every morn- extreme and zealous attention to it (Hatha Yoga), there with athletics: “You will be nearer to heaven play- ing before I get out of bed,” he wrote to Nikhilananda’s onslaught, then he is seems to be no useful middle ground whatever.” ing football than studying the Bhagavad Gita.” successor swami at the New York center in 1975. indeed a god.” Salinger went on to express his gratitude to the man Salinger also conducted a long correspondence with who had guided him out of his “long dark night.” “It may IVEKANANDA’S INFLUENCE BLOOMED well Marie Louise Burke, who compiled a six-volume history be that reading to a devoted group from the Gospel of Sri into the mid-20th century, infusing the of Vivekananda’s visits to the West. Burke was as serious Ramakrishna is all you do now, as you say, but I imagine work of Mahatma Gandhi, Carl Jung, a seeker as Salinger and as devoted as a nun: Indeed, she took the monastic name the students who are lucky enough to hear you read from the Gospel would put the George Santayana, Jane Addams, Joseph Sister Gargi. Nevertheless, the nervous, sometimes paranoid Salinger fretted that matter rather diff erently. Meaning that I’ve forgotten many worthy and important CampbellV and Henry Miller, among assorted lumi- she might profi t from their letters. Unfortunately, Burke proved her fi delity to her things in my life, but I have never forgotten the way you used to read from, and inter- naries. And then he seemed to go into eclipse friend by burning them. pret, the Upanishads, up at Thousand Island Park.” in the West. American baby boomers—more In between his two treks to the West, Vivekananda returned to India and founded By then, Salinger had not published in some time. Nor would he again. Nor did he COURTESY OF VEDANTA SOCIETY (ALL)

disposed to “doing” than “being”—have opted COURTESY OF VEDANTA SOCIETY (VIVEKANANDA); THREE LIONS/GETTY IMAGES (TEMPLE) the Ramakrishna Order as both a monastery and a service mission. Today it is among seem to miss it.

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94 April 2012 © 2012 Dow Jones & Company, InC. all RIghts ReseRveD. 6a01247 restartfitness.com irelandtouring.com [email protected] [email protected]

0412_WSJ_Sources_02.indd 94 3/2/12 2:32:35 AM Open Secret

THE WEE HOUSE THAT CHANGED THE WORLD Tucked away on the east coast of Ireland is a neoclassic folly that was the driving architectural force for the Age of Enlightenment

FOUNDATION FOR THE FUTURE There is no gambling in the Casino at Marino. The name comes from the Italian word “casa,” for house—thus, small house.

F THERE EVER WERE A GREAT FLOOD, and only one building could be saved The casino’s designer, Sir William Chambers, furiously busy in London as a to show future generations the best of the Enlightenment, a good candidate court architect to King George III, never managed to fi nd the opportunity to steal would be the Casino at Marino. Erected around 1760 as a pleasure pavilion away and see the actual building before his death in 1796. He and the better-known on the Earl of Charlemont’s estate near Dublin, this structure, 50 feet by 50 Adam brothers were the architects responsible for introducing the neoclassic aes- feetI and in the shape of a Greek cross, looks, at fi rst glance, as if it might contain thetic to England, replacing the Baroque through their commissions for country one room. In actuality it has 16, on three fl oors. Visual tricks abound: Stone urns houses, palaces and furniture. This one small building, an experiment in conjuring atop the parapet double as chimneys, glass panes in a single window are curved to the grandeur of ancient Rome and Greece, contains the germ of an idea from which CHRONO CLASSIC CERAMIC Inspired by the ingenuity of the Original disguise partitions shedding light into multiple rooms, and four of the handsome whole cities would later be built, fi rst in Europe and then in America. Jeff erson Swiss Army Knife, your companion for life. doric columns conceal drainpipes—this is Ireland, after all. would have loved it. By David Netto

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | WWW.SWISSARMY.COM 96 April 2012 Photograph by David Creedon

0412_WSJ_OpenSecret_01.indd 96 2/29/12 12:48:13 PM OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPER OF THE 34TH AMERICA’S CUP

Tambour America’s Cup LIMITED AND NUMBERED EDITION

Automatic chronograph with countdown function manufactured in Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking workshops in Switzerland Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores and on louisvuitton.com.