index 102 100 44 86 66 56 28 12 76 4 Tour oftheCastles Foce Appio Marzano Tora ePiccilli Conca dellaCampania Regional //Foce ParkofRoccamonfina Garigliano This guide, handy and user-friendly, translated both in English and German, inaugurates the editorial line of publications on the territory of the Park and is the first significant attempt to give this area the visibility it deserves. And it does this by telling the tourist about the treasures within its domain. The beauty, the richness, the timeless historical inspiration permeating the medieval towns and ancient pathways. An extraordinary journey accompanies the visitor in the shade of age-old chestnut trees, the discovery of evocative archaeological sites and of places with unrivalled art, mingling popular memory and folklore customs, blending ancient knowledge and culinary delights from the local gastronomic tradition. A territory which arrests the soul in its unrivalled spaces, colours and flavours, capable of offering the tourist a unique opportunity to rediscover the joy of nature and the pleasure of the good life. The task of the Parks Body, and my own personal task, is to act to protect and promote this small but great microcosm, allowing it to fully achieve its economic and social potential through a series of targeted initiatives, beginning with the present guide. Initiatives which can transform the naturalistic, historical and cultural heritage around the extinct Volcano of Roccamonfina into an important reservoir for the local Photo by Raffaella by Minucci Photo economy, in the conviction that this may be achieved by opening the territory up to a tourism that is both vigilant and conscientious. Attorney president Raffaele Aveta

1/ Roccamonfina Chestnut wood

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2 // Amidst age-old chestnut woods and delightful medieval villages, one can lose oneself in an oasis of tranquility, discovering, little by little, unforgettable scenes suspended in the midst of time. Passing along paths and through small villages, there are remarkable testaments to history to be admired, which tell of a past forged from a mixture of faith and architectural genius. Savouring local products, one can taste the famous chestnuts and the many varieties of gourmet mushrooms, one can experience gastronomic traditions which are unique in their simplicity, one may stumble upon tables prepared for a feast, embellished by oils which bear the scent of the woods and which revive us after long walks, sipping wines with flavours which are fruity and distinctive to the palate. In the small villages one may take part in festival and feast day celebrations, which enliven the spirit of simple people, recalling ancient folklore and popular traditions. The Regional Park of Roccamonfina - Foce Garigliano is an area boasting a wonderful hospitality and history, and it offers its visitors a luxuriant and untainted natural setting, reflected in the faces of the people and in its places, which boast a wealth of art, 1 the wealth of simplicity regional park of roccamonfina - foce garigliano park of roccamonfina regional archaeology and tradition.

1/ Roccamonfina Chestnut husk 4 1/ The park, The Park lost in the mists of time a panoramic view

2/ Mofettes

3/ Dormouse

The Regional Park of Roccamonfina - the mineral composition of the lava soils Foce Garigliano, situated in the heart of Roccamonfina, optimal for the of the Region of , extends nutritional requirements of this species. over around 9,000 hectares between In the chestnut woods one may admire the territories of lower , the Molise the marvellous spring-time bloom of and the urban area of . crocuses, buttercups, primroses, orchids, It encompasses the communes of Sessa anemones and violets. Delightful are the Aurunca, Teano and five centres many varieties of orchids, which each of the Monte Santa Croce Mountain year attract many scientists and nature- Community: Roccamonfina, Galluccio, lovers to this area. Nature now thrives , Marzano where, once, fire was king. It is Appio and . astonishing to see how rich and dense The Park is protectively overlooked the undergrowth is during the autumn, by the volcanic system of Roccamonfina, when it is populated by many species the most ancient of Vesuvius and of mushroom including the ovolo buono unforgettable in its form and majesty. (the royal agaric mushroom) and the It consists of an external crateral circle fungo porcino (edible boletus mushroom), which averages 6 km in width, defined valued both for its commercial as well at the highest points by Monte Santa as gastronomical qualities. Croce (1005 m.) and by Monte Làttani Flowers, plants and animals are the true (810 m.) and by a number of volcanic guardians of these places. The rich cones with a semispherical cupola mountain avifauna contains specimens profile, such as Monte Atano (Casi- such as the cuckoo, the woodpecker, Teano), Colle Friello (Conca della the little owl and the long-eared owl, Campania), Monte Ofelio (Sessa Aurunca). while in the hilly section one encounters Unique and oddly-shaped rocks recall the the blackbird and the crow. The Regional past volcanic activity of the area, which Park is host to the rarest and most today is covered in chestnut trees, olive fascinating of species, such as the red groves and vineyards. The chestnut tree heron and the more common marsh owls, 1 adapted well to this area in part due to fisher falcons and white storks.

Mofettes Mofettes are a secondary form of volcanic activity, consisting of emissions of carbon dioxide which well up from fissures in the ground. Thanks to their therapeutic qualities, they are often used to cure certain skin diseases.

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6 i How to reach the Park A proof that this whole area is a fully- functional and healthy ecosystem is the By airplane: presence of an avifauna which includes Capodichino Airport, many nesting populations of buzzards and kestrels, predators at the summit By train: of the food chain. From Naples Central The woods of the volcano of station Roccamonfina represent an ideal animal Trains bound for Rome sanctuary. Here one may stumble upon via Formia or via foxes, wild boars, badgers, beech From Roma Termini station martens, hares; while a multiplicity Trains bound for Naples via Formia or via Cassino of other mammal species live here in Train Stations of arrival isolation and in safety. Far from Vairano Scalo civilization - tranquility and nature Mignano M.L. itself ultimately have the last word. Tora/ Waling along the paths, the only sounds Sessa/Roccamonfina one hears under the twittering of Teano so many birds, the wind rustling the By car: branches of the trees and the splashing A1 Motorway of distant fresh waters flowing down recommended exits: from the sources. The entire region is S. Vittore - - full of watercourses, which have shaped S.S. Casilina its topography. The river Garigliano, recommended exits: for example, travels across the Park, Teano - Vairano Scalo excavating its own bed in the volcanic earth of Roccamonfina and the calcareous Conca della Campania Tora e Piccilli ground of the Mountains. S.S. Appia It comes from the confluence of the River recommended exits: with the or the Rapido Rivers, Sessa Aurunca and its waters are deep and fast-flowing. 1

1/ The river Garigliano

2/ The Savone river

3/ Short-toed eagle, 2 3 bird of prey 8 Its meandering route is mellowed further where a handshake has not lost its deep by the presence of sturdy poplars meaning. Small communities which get and salico trees on its banks. Running together to enthusiastically celebrate along the banks, contained within the the many festivals or religious feast days perimeter of the Park, it easily reaches in the streets and squares - unmissable its river-mouth near the pine forest events in the annual calendar which, of Baia Domizia Nord. such as the evocative Settimana Santa After the River Garigliano, the two most (Holy Week) of Sessa Aurunca. On these important waterways of the territory occasions, the food-filled tables tell are the River Savone and the River Peccia. an authentic story of the simple and Amplifying even further the beauty of genuine lifestyle of the various these places, one discovers along the communities living in the territory. One river banks the ruins of ancient mills may savour foods and typical products and olive-crushing plants, which with authentic flavours, such as the exploited the energy from the fast and castagna “tempestiva” (timely chestnut), unstoppable flow of the water to drive the many species of mushroom and the heavy grinders made from lava stone. dishes from the local culinary tradition, Traces of industrial archaeology are such as the Dolce Castagnaccio visible, then, near the banks of the River (chestnut flour cake). All accompanied Savone, with the remains of the and sealed by prize wines and “ferriere”, ironwork factories which go outstanding extra-virgin olive oils. back to the Bourbon period, showing A Regional Park, therefore, which how water has since time immemorial safeguards as well as reveals the been an important part of life for the history and traditions of people who populations of the Regional Park. still live their lives in close contact with If one wishes, one may visit the a luxuriant and unblemished nature, numerous villages in the area, fully relishing its true essence. characteristic places filled with flavour and popular tradition, hamlets where life still moves quietly and slowly,

Sessa Aurunca, Holy Week

10 Immersed in a landscape of ancient chestnut woods, Roccamonfina rises 612 m. above sea level, on the southern slope of the extinct crater from which it takes its name. The Town Hall stands on the main square, which is still the heartbeat of the small village, as well as the Villa Comunale and the Palazzo Colletta, while in the surrounding region there is a myriad of hamlets and small town centres, all worth a visit. The earliest evidence of the existence of a permanent settlement in the territory are the remains of an

// where life still moves slowly life still moves // where aqueduct and a number of epigraphic fragments in the Oscan language found in the area of Surienza. One of these, currently preserved in the National Archaeological Museum of Napes, carries the inscription…]MIFINEÍS[…which clearly refers to the current toponym of the centre and points to the evolution of a particularly important urban

roccamonfina complex active from pre-Roman times.

Roccamonfina, the village of Gallo 12 The significant settlement of groups of A.D., may be confirmed, therefore, Roman descent probably occurred only by the development of a possible strategic after the foundation of the Latin Law settlement, active in the pre-Roman period colony - Suessa - and the defeat of the and then further developed after the Aurunci during the battle of Veseris (313 Augustinian era in tandem with the nearby B.C.). This is suggested, indeed, by the and larger municipium of Suessa Aurunca. remains of the paved street still visible The archaeological dates are interrupted at certain points in the locality of Santa during the following centuries, with the Croce and the even better preserved domination of Rome, at least until 1800. remains at Cianiegliu, which in all It may be conjectured, however, that the likelihood follow stretches of the ancient city was affected by the presence Imperial road, as is the case for many or passage of the Goths, the Byzantines of the routes in the nearby Garigliano and the until in the 11th plain, which may date back to the 1st century it became the “Regio Dominio” and 2nd century A.D. of the Norman Crown. It was in this period, too, that one sees After the unification of the three the progressive transformation of seigniories - the De Caiano, Galluccio and systems of agricultural production Marzano seigniories - Roccamonfina fell and a concentration in intense building into the ownership of the Galluccio family. activity in the neighbouring colonies, During the Angevin hegemony (1266- particularly in the ager suessanus 1442) the town gained the privilege of and in the countryside of Falerna. holding a weekly market and an annual The well-known tradition reported by fair through the intervention especially the local historian Gerolamo Perrotta in of Goffredo Marzano, ‘Lord of a document from the beginning of 1700, Roccamonfina, Grand Admiral and trusted according to which Roccamonfina was Councillor of the Crown’, who appears founded by the Emperor Decius after he to have had some connection with the took refuge in these territories in pursuit construction of a castle with a fortified of his lover Fina, around the 3rd century enclosure and eight towers for sighting

Collegiate Church of S. Maria Maggiore: 1/ wooden cabinet 2/ bell tower

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Monastery of San Dominico is divided into a nave and two aisles, is very Near the Church of S. Maria Maggiore we luminous thanks to its large windows. Other find the entrance to the street that leads to notable features are its precious altar and its two small hamlets of the municipality finely worked wooden choir. Much of the of Roccamonfina: Gallo and S. Domenico. monastery has been restored and it is made In the latter lies Monastery of San Dominico, available both to lay people and the clergy built at the end of 17th century. Its church, which for retreats especially during the summer. 1

14 1/ Collegiate Church of S. Maria Maggiore, detail of the façade 2 2/ Cold room

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The foundation of the city were built by Christians in flight from the The cold rooms taken on in Roccamonfina forms that correspond There are various legends relating to the persecutions enacted by the Roman emperors. The cold rooms, for the most part perfectly to the characteristics of the geography and the foundation of the city: some relate that the Recent archaeological digs demonstrate that preserved in the woods - just like the more well- peculiar needs of the local people. The cold rooms current-day Roccamonfina was founded by the the actual residential centre of Roccamonfina known hay stacks, used by the peasants to escape are actual buildings made out of local materials, Emperor Decius as a sign of love for the princess in all probability stems from the natural from bad weather - were still used up until a few furnished with a door but without windows. During Fina; according to others, the present settlement and continuous evolution of the nuclei of decades ago. These constructions, which are found the winter they used to be filled with fresh snow supposedly grew out of a number of villages that settlements that took form over the ages. in other areas of the Southern Apennines, have and then, in the summer, used as ice factories.

16 and defence, two of which are still and 1862), the District of Roccamonfina visible in Piazza Nicola Amore (Palazzo experienced rebellious activity and Monaco and Palazzo Colletta). banditry carried out by non-indigenous After the assassination of Marino elements from territories subject to the Marzano, involved in the conspiracy Papal State, and therefore supported of the Barons against King Ferrante I by the same pontifical authorities and of Argon (1464), the town became a by the Bourbon Committees in Rome. dominion of the Crown of Naples. Nature exalts the remarkable beauty With the arrival in of Charles VIII, of these places, which is due in no the king of France, it was granted to small part to the architecture the Grand Captain Consalvo de Cordoba and monuments located in their midst. by King Ferdinand the Catholic (1507) In the area of Piazza Nicola Amore, and, subsequently, to Luigi Carafa the one is taken aback by the Collegiate Prince of Statigliano (1550). One of his Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. heirs married Elena Aldobrandi, the niece The devotional building dates back of Clement VIII, who assumed the title to the beginning of the 11th century, of ‘Signora’ of Roccamonfina in 1615 undergoing subsequent transformations and resided there for a long period and extensions. One enters through two of time, during which she was to atria closed off by iron gates and through embellish the fortified castle which a basalt stone portal. The internal is still visible in Piazza ‘Nicola Amore’. structure is divided into a nave and two In 1734, with Charles III of Bourbon, aisles joined by ten arches supported the city assumed the title of Terra Regia on eight columns. Another three similar which was to remain as such until 1806, arches at the entrance support the area when the feudal system was abolished where the Organ and the Choir are located. Monastery of SS. Maria dei Lattani, through the agency of Joseph Bonaparte. At the centre of the Chancel is the 1/ internal courtyard During the period immediately following greater altar built in 1739. It is closed 2/ drape the unification of Italy (between 1861 off by a marble balustrade; an elegant 3/ stone fountain

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The fountain of the Madonna The courtyard contains the fountain of the Madonna. Today, its water runs into a magnificent stone basin, dating to the 15th century, but up to the 18th century it flowed into the church. According to tradition, this water was miraculous and so was offered to newly wedded couples along with the wish that they might enjoy good fortune. 23 18 1/ Wild cyclamen 1 2 2/ Megalithic walls

Megalithic walls dating to between the 6th and diverse fragments of tile have boundary areas between the the Garigliano (according to ‘sacred enclosure of a queen’, On Monte La Frascara, around 4th centuries B.C. The structure been found, which would lead Liri valley and the Volturno the historian Livy, who dated but only if the term ‘queen’ 928 metres above sea level, extends over approximately 180 one to conjecture that once valley, and of undisputed the clash to the 4th century actually referred to a divine a rich mass of vegetation metres, with large projections upon a time there were wooden strategic importance. B.C.) probably to minimise the figure with regal attributes consisting of chestnuts, of rock up to 6 metres in height palisades with a rectangular Despite the strong historical impact of the Roman army in which were chronologically brooms and butcher’s brooms at several points, and has an roof above the trachyte blocks. connection with the prehistoric the destruction of Aurunci and topographically resides over the remains of irregular polygon shape with Obviously, the lack of any or protohistoric walls, the territory, it is more likely that associated with the fortified a polygonal enclosure of slightly irregular sides. The evidence of dwellings or other structure may have been built the structure was built by the wall in question. considerable importance external perimeter consists structures in the vicinity has so by the Ausoni-Aurunci, which Samnites, whose influence In effect, the relation between for the reconstruction of the of dry-stone blocks, produced far discounted the theory that a ancient sources (especially expanded from the beginning water springs and ancient original settlement of the city. probably by levelling off the permanent inhabited area Antioco of Syracuse in of the 4th century B.C. up to templar structures has been It is a structure consisting local stones to form large existed here in antiquity. Strabone, V, 4, 3) refer to as the banks of the Liri, creating proven to be fairly common of large blocks of trachyte of cubes. The curtain is propped Considering the position of the inhabitants living around the a defensive system to protect in Appenine territory and might varying dimensions, located up inside by rows of large enclosure and the modest vicinity of the crater. However, the larger centres from suggest the cult in ancient on the western slope and stones, rough-hewn and smaller dimensions involved, it is likely considering that during the 5th the Roman advance. Roccamonfina of a female retaining a height of around than those inside. The entrance, to have functioned as a century B.C. they were forced The toponym Orto della Regina deity associated with 4 metres, showing significant identifiable at the south-east, fortification complex, operating by the Sidicini and by the (Queen’s Garden), beloved of the springs themselves. typological similarities with gives access to a long corridor, primarily for purposes of Romans to limit their influence popular tradition, might refer Italic defensive fortifications on the well-worn floor of which systematic surveillance of the over the plain to the south of to a ‘garden’ in the sense of

20 circular Tabernacle is protected by four example of Campania art dating back to 1400. small columns, cylindrical on both sides, The Convent and its complex were made of pure polychrome marble subject to considerable development and dated to 1816. during a period of more than five Behind the altar lies the Choir of centuries. In the wake of extension polished wood and the choir stalls for and restoration work, the building today the canons and, at the rear wall, appears as a stratification of several a canvas with the image of the Our Lady styles, yet the Gothic structure betrays of the Assumption, from 1763. visible evidence of the original Of considerable interest is the bell tower: Romanesque complex. The architecture it is about 40 metres in height and has of the building, of a mainly Romanesque- five octagonal-shaped landings, the last Elegant style, borrows references and of which is closed off by an iron ideas typical to the Renaissance, balustrade terminating in a dome of and the formal and structural austerity majolica brick. The public clock is located of the building is likely to immediately on the facade at the base: it is overpower the visitor. The ornamentation rectangular in form and decorated with and sculptures, almost all in the volcanic majolica tiles glazed and coloured by fire, stone of Roccamonfina, may be attributed on the surface of which are imprinted to the Durazzesco and Aragonese phase the figures of the sun and the moon, of the . They preserve and features from the landscape rich ornamental details, the result of the of Roccamonfina. Beneath this is painstaking work of cutting and chiselling reproduced the coat of arms of the city, of the adept stone-cutters of the era. and the symbols of the four seasons. The whole Sanctuary breathes a mystical Travelling 2.5 km from the town to the atmosphere, from the point where one east of Monte Santa Croce, one comes ascends the majestic staircase in local Monastery of upon the Sanctuary and Convent of stone and reaches the Gothic atrium with SS. Maria dei Lattani, Santa Maria Dei Lattani, a noteworthy cross-vault, overlooked by a great portal frescoes

The Sacred Immage of the Madonna San Giacomo della Marca paid a brief visit Tradition would have it that around the years to Monte Lattani. An initial chapel was built 1429 -1430 the Sacred Image of the Madonna, with the contribution of the local people. Later venerated today in the Santuario dei Lattani, this was extended and in 1430 incorporated was discovered inside a cave by a shepherd who into the Ramanic church which, in its turn, was tending a flock of goats. The news spread became part of the final Gothic-style church, and quickly attracted swarms of pilgrims, brought to completion between 1448 and 1507. so much so that San Bernardino da Siena and 22 in chestnut wood, decorated with not damage the initial design of rose window panels dating to 1507. the Sanctuary, whose structure and At the entrance to the complex are two ornamentation remain unaltered. distinctive windows with decorated The portico, from the first half of the frames, whose mouldings go back to 17th century, is still in optimal condition. the 15th century, while on the first floor The cloister is from the same phase: are lancet-style windows worked in the it is magnificent in its rectangular plan, finest detail, with small slender pillars and is defined by low, unequal columns, and a rosette positioned in the upper part some still showing valuable ornamental with a decoration bearing a vortex motif. details. The walls of the chiostro are Inside the church, on the left hand side decorated with charming paintings by of the single nave, divided into three Father Tommaso di Nola (1630 and 1637) cross-vaults supported by elegant pillars, depicting the life of S. Francesco. The it is possible to admire the Chapel of the Sanctuary and Convent complex of Santa Madonna dei Lattani, access to which Maria Dei Lattani accommodates other is by way of three broad steps. A artworks like the fascinating window balustrade in white marble and high iron in Durazzesco-Catalan style located on gates mounted on brass protect a sacred the lower level of the facade. image formed out of basalt. The image is In the courtyard near the convent is the housed under a remarkable dome-shaped Hermitage of San Bernardino, built vault. Also worth noting are the Baroque before the chapel on three levels, the decorations that surround the image and upper two levels of which are porticoed the large frescoes that cover the side and accessed by an external staircase. walls adjacent to the high altar. This The recent meticulous restoration works, altar, which is formed out of slabs of including the extension of the refectory, black and white marble, was realised have helped make the Sanctuary and in 1638 and later, in 1733, restored with Convent of Santa Maria Dei Lattani one the addition of an artistic altarfrontal. of the most evocative and most-visited The various stratifications of style did artistic sites of Alta Campania.

Monastery of SS. Maria dei Lattani, 1/ external portico 2/ fresco

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1/ Amanita caesarea, Notes // Not be missed Unforgotten tastes and trades // rise up, and of Monte Santa Croce. Amidst del Diavolo (Devil’s footprints) Caesar’s Mushroom •The Queen’s Garden Typical handcrafted products a dense carpet of primroses, violas, lilies, •On the path of the Ausoni, •The Sanctuary and Convent of Santa Maria It is when one sits down to table that the different geraniums, wild orchids, heather and broom, the Samnites and the Bandits. 2/ Chestnut, dei Lattani (opening hours 7.00 - 19.30 hours) places come into their own. Try out the chestnut of excursions may be organised at any time of year •The path of the Orchids and of the Neviere the “tempestive” variety •Collegiate church of Santa Maria Maggiore Roccamonfina, the “Tempestiva or Primitiva” to enchant the wanderer with the remarkable (snow barns) and the village of Cerquarola •The snow barns and hay barns variety, as well as the “Lucida”, “Napoletana”, “Mercogliana”, “Marzatica”, used as a basis for a natural scenes viewed from ancient paths, Don’t miss them // For information: of Roccamonfina number of typical dishes; try out the PGI wines or passing by the numerous water springs, the tel. 0823 677224 Aglianico and Falanghina, known since Roman abandoned mills, the hay barns and snow barns. Shows and events times, the acacia and chestnut honey, the •Path of the orchids and snow barns •The Estate Roccana festival, mushrooms such as the ovolo buono (royal agaric •Path of the ancient mills July/August, Roccamonfina mushroom) and the porcino (edible boletus •From Cescheto to the Megalithic walls •Chestnut-theme Feast, mushroom), fruits of the forest and sheep's cheese. •From the Ciampate del Diavolo (Devil’s 2nd Sunday in October - Roccamonfina On the paths you may still encounter old women footprints) to the Santuario dei Lattani. •L’Oro del Vulcano, working by hand with lace and lace pillow. •The path of pilgrims from Conca della last Sunday in October - Roccamonfina Campania to the Santuario dei Lattani Lose yourself in the city // •From Furnolo to Monte Atano, Religious feasts Nature and pathways along the Savone delle Ferriere •Descent of Sant’Antonio, The territory contains a vast volcanic crater, •The path of the Ancient Mills last Tuesday in May - Roccamonfina opening out towards the east and the centre, •From the Santuario dei Lattani to Monte Camino •Ascent of Sant’Antonio, from which the summits of the Lattani mountains •From Saint Anthony tavern to the Ciampate last Sunday in August - Roccamonfina 26 On the slopes of the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina, to the south-west, lies the ancient town of Sessa Aurunca, whose communal territory extends approximately 163 sum., including hills and plains. Many country wards are located at some distance from the urban centre, awaiting discovery by the tourist for the beauty of their villages and landscapes, but also for their many typical local products. Present-day Sessa Aurunca was known as Suessa in ancient times, when it was the city of the Ausoni - Aurunci. The date of foundation of the town is unknown, although at the beginning of the 5th century B.C. it was federated with other Aurunci towns. Discoveries of archaeological material at the Ponte Ronaco (Ronaco Bridge), or Ponte degli Aurunci (Aurunci Bridge), are testimony to the presence in the area of tombs dating back to the 8th century B.C. and of a residential settlement of the 7th century B.C. These remains clearly presuppose the existence of a population settled from the protohistoric age onwards. With the political and military ascent of Rome, Sessa

// an open-air museum Aurunca became a colony, absorbing the art and culture of that city. It was in the imperial age when the town expanded to its maximum dimensions, and the residential area occupied almost twice the area of today. Little is known about Sessa Aurunca and its territory in the period following the fall of the . What is known, however, is that there was a Christian community here, evidenced by the San Casto catacombs,

sessa aurunca the subject of recent archaeological excavations.

Hercules Fountain, detail 28 With the advent of Norman-Swabian typically medieval masonry curtain walls and domination, Sessa went through a long quadrangular towers were retained; elegant period of economic and social progress. The twin lancet windows appeared as well as construction of the Romanesque Cathedral small loggias with low arches which tended and the enlargement of the Castle and of the to simplify the architectural appearance and walls date back to the 12th and 13th make it more liveable. centuries. At the end of the 14th century, The Castle in its entirety was earmarked for the domain of Sessa was acquired by the the Library and Civic Museum. The key Marzano family and this did not change until attraction of the Civic Museum is the the second half of the 15th century. Among archaeological material sourced almost the prominent figures from that family are completely from excavations at the Roman the Duke Giovanni Antonio, who encouraged Theatre of Sessa. Among the most the maintenance and construction of various significant finds is the statue of Matidia buildings for the "mendicant orders”, and di the younger, the sister-in-law of the Marino, known to have participated in the Emperor Hadrian, represented as a divinity "conspiracy of the barons" against the King and sculpted in a workshop in Asia Minor, of Naples, Ferrante of Aragon. The Marzano using two different qualities and colours family summoned workmen from Spain who of marble, grey and white. In the same were already operating in Naples, who exhibition room there is also a variety of applied the Durazzesco-Catalan style to the religious paraphernalia from a necropolis architecture in question, and this may be in Aurunca, dating to the 4th century B.C. seen today in a number of portals and single Crossing Via Taddeo de Matricio, one and twin lancet windows of the historical reaches the Church of the Annunziata, centre. Another civic building, based on a built at the end of the 15th century commission from the Marzano family, is the through the auspices of the guild Castle. Built on an important Roman site of of “tanners and shoemakers”. The ground the Lombards, it was completely restructured plan, based on the Greek cross, was divided 1/ Castle in the Norman-Swabian period. It became into a nave and two aisles and featured the residence of the Marzano family from rows of columns. It was typical of the 2/ Church of the Annunziata, the end of the 14th century onwards, and Renaissance architecture popular during this the dome intervention works were carried out to alter period. Inside are various paintings from the 3/ The Aurunco Bridge the formidable appearance and make it more 18th century, including The Annunciation by suitable for a residential palace. The Sebastiano Conca, along with other 1

The Aurunco Bridge bipedales radially positioned and Aurunco Bridge, also called “Ronaco” slightly tapered in a wedge-shape, Bridge, is reached through the ancient built on pillars of variable height, street which connected Sessa to the as if following the orography Via Appia, 2 kilometres away from of the terrain and the advancement the town of Sessa Aurunca. of building project itself. The bridge-viaduct, dating to between Given the depth of the natural valley the end of the first and the beginning across which it advanced, indeed, of the second century A.D. consisted they presuppose - as do other of 21 arches varying in height from technical contrivances in evidence - 6.79 metres to 5.45 metres. It was an in-depth knowledge of imperial produced in dry-block masonry, the bridge-building architecture by the opus caementicium, made from person in charge of the ancient formless tuff blocks attached by project. Significant, too, is the pozzolanic mortar and then covered by transportation system for the rain opus taestaceum or other materials waters as well as the planking, whose selection depended on function. indicated especially by the original 2 3 The lintels of the arches are in flooring in polygonal trachytic stone.

30 Roman theatre, details

The Roman theatre Maiuri during the 1920s inscriptions, as is demonstrated chorus appeared. The structure background. This - the result could accommodate around Descending from Piazza and brought fully to light after in particular by the large appears to be backed entirely of the extension carried out 7000 persons, is the largest in Castello and continuing along the mid-1990s. Its current quantity of valuable materials onto the bank of tufaceous in the period of Hadrian behind Campania after that of Naples. the present-day Via Aldo Moro, appearance reveals traces and objects discovered during rock, beginning with the the pulpitum on which actors This is testimony to the one stumbles on the remains of the first building works the various excavation fortified wall constructed enacted their roles - must have importance of Suessa during of the ancient perimeter walls, carried out since the structure campaigns. Still preserved according to an ancient building consisted of three rows of the splendour of the Roman with stratifications that point was built, as well as the are large parts of the summa technique (opus quadratum - superimposed columns, giving Empire, to the cultural wealth to intervention works carried topographical connection cavea, surrounded by a floored the use of squared tufa blocks) a total height of around 26 of a population, and to the out during the first century B.C. with the nearby suburban villa, walkway with small bricks which goes back to the first metres and length of 40 metres. historic importance of its lands. and during medieval times. excavated in 2004 and still arranged in the form of phase of the Latin Law colony Between the columns - of Below the street, as one under examination. a fishbone, pillars and arches (4th century B.C.). various origin and of prized proceeds towards the sea, The theatre of Sessa - the of tufa. Still preserved are The most imposing and workmanship - statues were stands the Roman Theater. privileged public space for the flights of steps of the monumental architectural positioned which predominantly The building, built at the start Imperial propaganda in Lazio ima cavea, for the former features were to be found in represented personages from of the first century A.D., with and Campania for at least two spectators, made of local white the entrance portico, consisting the Imperial family, and further extensions carried out centuries - is likely to have limestone, and part of the of three aisles, with walls richly significant parts of which during the Antonine Age, was been decorated with many proedria, which leads one decorated in marble slabs and are still visible today. partially restored by Amedeo sculptures and celebratory to the orchestra, where the frescos, and in the scenic The Theatre of Sessa, which

32 Cathedral, 2/ façade 1/3/4/5 details

paintings from different periods. Among these is the 15th century panel portraying the Pietà, originating from the dilapidated church of San Biagio and exhibited in the Cappella dell’Addolorata (Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows). This area also houses the 16th century tomb slab of the Governor of Sessa, Don Lope de Herrera, attributed to the sculptor Annibale Caccavello. Along Corso Lucilio, if you cross the main street and one of the side-streets, you will enter a small square where the Cathedral is located, dedicated to the apostolic saints Peter and Paul. Built between 1103 and 1113, it still preserves its Romanesque- Cassinese appearance, despite the various renovations and restorations which have modified some sections. A number of interesting theories have been advanced about the town planning context in which the Cathedral was built. According to some, the Cathedral was built on the ruins of the Temple of Mercury, but others say it was built on the site of a building from the High Middle Ages. What is unquestioned is the widespread redeployment of ancient materials from Roman Sessa. The portico, enlarged at the end of the 12th century, has three arches resting on redeployed columns with alternating medieval and ancient capitals. Sculptural features are widespread,

The Cathedral In the nave of the cathedral, above the arches, we find a series of decorative motifs. These are the result of a restoration promoted by Bishop Caraccioli around the middle of the 18th century. It consisted in the adaptation of the church to the new aesthetic canons of the 1 Rococo, with the substitution of a wooden ceiling - perhaps from the middle of the 16th century - that covered the original trusses. Four of the original eight windows were filled in, while the others were modified so as to accommodate arched windows. The two aisles were covered with stucco. The 18th century covering of the aisles and the covering of the transept was done away with in the course of the restoration work effected between 1978 and 1981. 234 5 such as capitals, archivolts, corbels Comunione degli Apostoli by Luca Giordano, and architraves representing, in the main, exhibited in the Cappella del Santissimo lions and other animals. In the upper Sacramento (Chapel of the Most Holy area of the facade there is a large window Sacrament), and the altarpiece featuring the framed by a triangular aedicula, itself Madonna del Popolo, attributed to Marco decorated with sculptures. Cardisco and located in the central apse. The Cathedral interior consists of a nave From Corso Lucilio, cross Ugolino until you and two aisles, divided by columns with reach a wider area where, according to alternating Corinthian and medieval capitals. popular tradition and hagiographical The central nave has an arch with evidence, Saint Francis of Assisi revived a stuccowork typical of Seventeenth century little boy. This small square, also called Naples, which testifies to a profound “delle colonne”, accommodates the transformation of the building Church of San Germano which goes back in the Baroque style, which was partially to medieval times. The central part of the erased by later restoration work during facade, divided into three and redone in the the second half of the twentieth century. Seventeenth century, features two statues Some of the most interesting features representing San Germano and San include the ambo, with its candelabra Benedetto while the upper area contains for the Paschal candle, characterised a kind of belvedere, which allowed the by coloured opaque glass mosaics enclosed order of Benedictine monks - alternating with sculptures and bas-reliefs. proprietors of the building - to observe Both may be dated to the first half of the “daily life". The wealth of the stuccowork 13th century and may be assumed to be decorating the whole interior is the result the work of Peregrino, given the relevant of work carried out at the end of the sculptural features, as evidenced seventeenth century. The altars, on the bas-relief representing in polychrome marble mosaic, are “Giona and the Cetacean”. attributable to Dioniso Lazzari. The flooring of the central nave is still The flooring of the central nave, entirely of mosaic; it was probably a breathtaking example of the work Cathedral, made by workmen from the Byzantine of Neapolitan “riggiolai” 1/2/4 details school already operating at the Desiderian (who crafted glazed majolica floors), Abbey at Montecassino. may be dated to the second half 3/ Flag wavers, a performance Paintings in this cultural site include the of the 18th century. 1

Traditions and usages There are various groups and associations in the Aurunci territory whose aim is to raise awareness of ancient customs, traditions and usages. Among these are the flag-flyers and walk-ons of the “Marino Marzano” Historical Procession, where medieval clothing is worn, and the “City of Sessa Aurunca” flag-flyers. There are also other typically folk associations such as the “Ariella”, the “Figli di Maia”, “Luciliano” who happily evoke an age-old cultural tradition with their dance, song and costume.

23 4

36 Panorama

38 The mystical gleam of faith dell’Annunziata (Church of the blue mozettas, take part in a white habit and black mozetta. which will light up for the exit one by one, followed by by the Confraternity of San Carlo stuta” (“smothers every evil”). Holy Week at Sessa Annunciation) wearing their penitential rites. The brothers move After this procession ends in the procession of the Mysteries. a large Cross on which all the main Borromeo: this is a reply of the The Monday after Easter is The Rites of Holy Week begin with "wine-coloured” mozettas, while towards the Cathedral, singing the Church of San Giovanni a Villa, the In the Cathedral, after the morning symbols of the Passion feature. scene of Cavalry: Giuseppe devoted to the Procession of the Palm Sunday, a day which their brothers in the "green" Benedictus in Latin, and on their Ufficio delle Tenebre (Office of the Messa degli Oli (Mass of the Oils), The Dead Christ follows, and the D'Arimatea and Giovanni Nicodemo Patron Saints Most Holy Mary introduces - almost by way of mozettas (from the Confraternity return towards their own Church Dark) commences, also referred to the solemn Coena Domini Mass is procession is closed by the Three remove Christ's body from the Advocate of the People and San contrast - the mysticism of the of the same name) depart from the they chant the Te Deum of as “Il Terremoto” (the earthquake). celebrated in the afternoon. In the Mary’s, clothed in elegant black Cross and return him to his Mother, Leone IX. After Holy Mass in the ensuing days. The Palm, viewed Chiesa del SS. Rifugio in the thanksgiving - still in Latin. It is an ancient rite which, prior to evening, finally, the custom and wearing jewels donated by the who concludes the scene Cathedral, the procession begins in the Christian world as a symbol afternoon. The processions pass On Holy Wednesday morning, the Second Vatican Council, played (prevailing mainly in ) people. The procession is moving with Mary Magdalene from Piazza del Duomo, and all of peace, is offered during Palm along the main thoroughfare of it is the turn of the Confraternity of out at convents during the three is to visit the Sepolcri (graves) made and evocative: the groups get into and Saint John the disciple. confraternities of the town Sunday as a sign of reconciliation; the town, to reach the Cathedral San Carlo Borromeo, distinguished days of the Passion. The rite is ready in the various Churches. order, swaying one behind the other, The other group, a procession participate in it. The diversity of and the blessed olive branch, where people take part in the by their "vermillion red” mozettas. organised by the Archconfraternity On Holy Friday, the most important to the resounding music of the organised by the brothers of the capes displayed presents a very protected by the head of the family Eucharistic adoration, then they During Holy Week, the streets of of SS. Crocifisso, whose brothers day of Holy Week, the clothes to splendid Canto del Miserere Confraternity of SS. Rifugio, eye-catching variety of colours. until the Easter of Resurrection, return to their own mother Church. Sessa Aurunca take on the colour alternate in reciting the psalms and be worn during the procession are (Miserere Chant) and the Marce represents the Pietà, evoking The statue of San Leone Leo IX serves to bless the family On Holy Tuesday morning, from of the six confraternities passing chants which mark the different prepared. The sacred ceremony Funebri (Funeral Marches). All taking the maternal, suffering embrace is at the rear of the procession, with Holy water. the Franciscan Church of San through, engaging in rites and phases of this archaic ritual. commences at seven in the evening: place in a historical centre where of Our Lady of Sorrows who gathers followed by the Bishop and the On Holy Monday morning, the Giovanni a Villa, the “incappucciati” processions which have not lost On Holy Thursday, homes are busy the statues are raised by the hooded the only lights are those lit up in up the Body of the deposed Christ. diocesan clergy and immediately square and streets of the historic (hooded confraternity) of the their power to fascinate. preparing typical Easter desserts brothers of the Archconfraternity each quarter, with a remarkable The two Mysteries, having afterwards follows the scene of the centre becomes the backdrop for the Archconfraternity of the SS. Tradition assigns the honour of (cakes/tarts such as the pastiera, of SS. Crocifisso, arranged in a row number of people taking part, proceeded along the streets of Madonna del Popolo (Madonna of rites which take place throughout Crocifisso and Pio Monte dei Morti, closing the penitential rites to the the casatiello and the pigna), while and with the torches lit, they are accompanying the procession until the town, return to their respective the People), with her golden crown. Holy Week. The Archconfraternity decked out in black habit and hood Archconfraternity of SS. Rosario, the young people collect old casks, carried by shoulder down from the its return later in the night. churches, while the brothers hand of San Biagio officially opens the and without mozetta. In the which in the afternoon departs from wooden frames and especially dry Church in a procession performed The morning of Holy Saturday the participants the ex voto candles, cycle of processions of Holy Week, afternoon, the Archconfraternity the oratory of the ex-convent of San branches for the staging of the in a manner known as the is when the procession of the as well as the rue, the bitter- *For further information departing from the Chiesa of the SS. Concezione, wearing the Domenico and is distinguished by “Caracciuni” and “Fuocaracci”, “cunnulella”. The “Mysteries” Deposition group occurs, organised scented herb which “ogni male www.settimanasanta.com 40 Previous page Holy Week, rituals

1/ Terre Aurunche DOP olive oil

2/ Campania buffalo mozzarella 1 2 cheese, a “braid”

Notes // Not to be missed Never forgotten tastes and trades // Forget the city // Religious feasts •Historical centre Typical products and crafts Nature and pathways •Bonfire of San Giuseppe, •Ducal Castle / Municipal Museum Typical cheeses, including the characteristic The territory is very varied and never boring. 18 March - Cascano/ Sessa Aurunca (opening hours 9.00 - 13.00 hours from “caso peruto” produced especially in the It is bathed by the river Garigliano and other •Mystery Processions, Monday to Friday - booking required ward of San Carlo, Extra-virgin olive oil, waterways and is for the most part covered in Holy Friday and Saturday - Sessa Aurunca on Saturday and Sunday) which has obtained the DOP trademark orchards, olive groves and vineyards which give •Holy Mary Advocate of the People and San •Cathedral of San Pietro e San Paolo “Terre Aurunche” table olives, desserts. way, near the coast, to dense broadleaf woods. Leone IX, Monday in Albis - Sessa Aurunca •Roman Theatre and criptoporticus Bufala mozzarella, cherry tomatoes •From Cescheto to the Megalithic walls •Madonna della Libera, (by reservation only ) Fresh fish, stockfish. 1st Sunday in May - Carano/ Sessa Aurunca •Church of San Germano Here too, as in the whole area of the Regional Don’t miss them // •Maria SS dei Pozzi, 2 •Church of Sant’Agostino Park, craftwork has never been abandoned, Shows and events nd Sunday in May - Lauro/ Sessa Aurunca •Church of the Annunciation thanks to manual skills handed down from •Musica d’Insieme Festival, •Feast of San Catrese, •Ronaco Bridge generation to generation. August/September - Sessa Aurunca 4th Sunday in May - San Castrese/ Baskets and typical handmade goods •Encounters of creativity and spectacle, Sessa Aurunca For information: Comune of Sessa Aurunca in wicker, terracotta and artistic ceramics. July/August - Sessa Aurunca •Maria SS di Costantinopoli, tel. 0823 682019 •Places of Memory, June - Cascano/ Sessa Aurunca July - August - Sessa Aurunca •Feast of Sant’Erasmo, •Theatres of Stone - June - Piedimonte/ Sessa Aurunca August - Sessa Aurunca

42 Galluccio is located on the north-west slope of the Regional Park of Roccamonfina. The centre stretches over a broad area of varied terrain, with an altitude varying between 600 and 900 metres above sea level. An ancient Roman colony, it is made up of a number of scattered nuclei in a natural setting of great charm, each bearing quiet witness to a past of great historical and artistic interest, including San Clemente, the seat of the Commune, Sipicciano, Campo and Calabritto. The history of the territory of Galluccio begins in the Paleolithic age. Between the 6th and 2nd centuries B.C., the Aurunci first and then the Romans established their colonies near today’s residential centre, providing the area with considerable production facilities of which traces still remain today, especially on the north-eastern slope. In the 10th century, the Lombard Princes of Capua defeated the Saracens who had taken over the town of Galluccio and, to protect against other incursions they built a large fortress on a height protected by the // the cross, the sword and the rock the sword // the cross, river Peccia, surrounded by cliffs. Subsequently, the Princes of Capua assumed the name of Galluccio, and they adopted for their coat of arms a red cock in a silver field and they maintained the domain,

galluccio which expanded around the fortress, up until 1480.

Church of the Annunziata, detail of the dome 44 Following skirmishes between the the dry-stone walls of the area of San Normans and the Papal troops, Reparata, the freshwater wash houses the fortress was enlarged with the of Caia and Zingarone and the stone construction of new churches including bridge of Collinverno. the Chapel of San Nicola. Traces of history are still in evidence During the 18th century, the ancient in the small surrounding centres: town of Galluccio began to expand, walking along the characteristically with dwellings moving from the heights narrow alleyways of Sipicciano, down to the plains larger villages for instance, one finds perfectly growing up around the fortress. preserved details of Saracen architecture, Small centres grew in the surrounding such as Palazzo Zarone and Palazzo area, such as Saraceni, Mieli and De Petrillo, in Via Montagna. Cisterni. With the unification of Italy, Splendid views await one’s arrival, the city was affected by rebellion stretching as far as the city of Cassino. and acts of banditry carried out Very evocative, too, is the parish church by armed bands led by Ciccio Guerra of Santa Maria del Trionfo, whose facade and Francesco Tommasino. was probably redone in 1675, the year Near Galluccio is the ward of San of the Jubilee, and the interior of which Clemente which, towards the end of the accommodates a marvellous chancel with 19th century, became the administrative a polyptych dating from 1600, divided centre of Galluccio and the principal by small spiralling wooden columns. nucleus of the Commune, thanks to the Then the village boasts a natural science transfer of the municipal hall and of all museum, which accommodates an the administrative offices. The ward still important collection of animal species. preserves evocative traces of art and Western architecture in southern Italy history, such as the area of the Church finds triumphant expression in the of San Donato, Conturni with its fountain, collegiate church of Santo Stefano the Cappella del Corbello (Chapel of Protomartire, in Galluccio, which was Corbello), the ancient farmhouses and created after the first half of the 14th

2 1/ Panorama

Collegiate Church of Santo Stefano Protomartire, 2/ façade 3/ wooden chest of drawers

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46 Collegiate Church of Santo Stefano Protomartire, clock

The feudal Castle of Galluccio, in the town of Cavelle - of which unfortunately Giovanni Antonio Campano, the distinguished only a few traces remain - is famous for three fifteenth century humanistic scholar reasons. Firstly because it was here that the and historian. Finally, it is famous because pontifical army was defeated by Roger II, Pope it was ruled by many noble families. Innocent II was imprisoned and the destiny Attached to the feudal castle is a bell tower of the monarchy of southern Italy was decided. of considerable historical and architectural Secondly, it is famous as the birthplace of interest, which dates to the 13th century. 48 1/ Village of Sipicciano, a view

Church of S. Maria del Trionfo, 2/3/ details

century and restored on several occasions. Tradition attributes the current appearance of the church to Pope Julius II, who wished to embellish it as a gesture of thanks to the parish for its hospitality during a short stay in the town. The facade is distinguished by two triclinic portals, the one on the right hand side being the principal one. The Gothic bell tower is in tufa and has five levels. The second and third level display ogival single lancet windows, while those of the fourth and fifth levels are curved, and the last level ends in a spire. The collegiate church, which may be

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50 dated to the 17th century, has a single on the architrave of the portal one reads central nave, with chapels adorned with the dates 1610 and 1617, indicating the Baroque stuccowork. The building has a dates of work carried out to rehabilitate wooden lacunar ceiling and is divided the building. Only 2 km away is the into polygonal figures with gold contrada Cisterna (Cisterna quarter) engravings and rosettes; the majolica- where the Chapel of San Nicola stands tiled floor dates from 1697. The centre at the site of an ancient Roman cistern. of the building accommodates and This is the place where Pope Innocent II preserves the "Flagellation of St. took refuge during fighting with the Stephen”, a work on canvas by Jacopo troops of Roger II before he Cestari, pupil of Luca Giordano, was captured and imprisoned. portraying the stoning of Saint Stephen. The Chapel plays host to frescos On the main altar, in finely carved which date to the fourteenth and polychrome marble, reveals the cock fifteenth centuries, as well as a surmounted by the radiant cross, number of works of considerable the coat of arms of the commune of importance from the 18th century. Galluccio; the cross vault is ornamented In the barrel-vaulted area underneath, with frescos of Passarelli, from 1694. there are the remains of frescos Galluccio also boasts the wonderful possibly dating from the 12th century Church of the Annunziata. and portraying scenes from the Old The edifice, its current appearance and New Testament. the product of a superimposition of various architectural styles ranging from the Gothic to the Baroque, 1/ Church of the Annunziata, has a single nave, and on the entrance bell tower portal it retains an interesting stone Historic town centre, rosette with two intersecting crosses. 2/ 3/ details At the centre of the chancel vault and 1

Noble knights, legends and castles Various legends are told about the origins of the name Galluccio. One of these tells of how the name of the town derives from the name of the commander of one of these colonies in the area, Trebonius Gallus, transformed later into Gallico and then finally into Galluccio. Instead, according to another legend, the name derives directly from an ancient linguistic root, which allegedly refers to the fire of volcanoes. This on account of the town’s proximity to the volcano Mount Friello.

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52 Vineyard

Notes // Not to be missed Never forgotten tastes and trades // Don’t miss them // Religious feasts •Collegiata di San Stefano Protomartire Typical products and crafts Shows and events •Bonfire night of Sant’Antonio, •The Church of Our Lady of the Annunciation Galluccio wine awarded the DOC appellation •Handicrafts exhibition and Folklore Festival, 16/17 January, Galluccio •Villiage of Sipicciano in 1993, chestnuts, money, mushrooms, sheep mid-July, San Clemente / Galluccio •Feast of Madonna of Sorbello, •Museum of Natural Sciences, and goat cheeses, Annurca apples, vin santo. •The “Tiempi belli re na vota” show, 2nd Sunday in May, Sorbello/ Galluccio inauguration at the start of April A number of artisan studios still carry out work the Ecomuseo della Civilta Rurale •Feast of San Stefano, in ceramics and majolica. (eco-museum of rural culture) 1st Sunday in August, Galluccio For information: Comune of Galluccio of Alto Casertano, last weekend in July, •Feast of Madonna of the Assunta, tel. 0823 925119 Forget the city // first in August, Sipicciano / Galluccio 15th August, Calabritto/ Galluccio Nature and pathways •Festivalbeer, 1st/2nd ten-day period •Feast of San Giacomo, The territory of Galluccio boasts 3195 hectares in August, San Clemente / Galluccio 3rd Sunday in August, Vaglie/ Galluccio of remarkable natural beauty, such as the •Grape-theme Feast, last Sunday •Feast of San Bartolomeo, luxuriant woods and waterfalls at Cava di Pietra, in September, San Clemente / Galluccio 4th Sunday in August, Sipicciano/ Galluccio at Peccia and at Fosso Cocoruzzo. •Feast themed on the Chestnut •Feast of Sant’Antonio, •From the Santuario dei Lattani to Monte Camino and the “Porcino” mushroom, 2nd Sunday in September, San Clemente/ Galluccio •On the path of the Ausoni, October, Sipicciano / Gallucecio Samnites and the Bandits

54 On the southern slope of the extinct Volcano of Roccamonfina, where nature is preserved in all its luxuriance, stands Conca della Campania, recognisable mainly for its houses built along the walls and for the small residential nuclei concentrated further to the north. Its strategic position since pre- Roman times made the town a crucial centre for communications between Lazio and Campania. Greek historians identified the Ausoni as the first inhabitants in the territory, followed by the Aurunci,

// then replaced by the descendants of the Sidicini of Teano and by the Romans following the , as evidenced by the remains of the country villas discovered near the current residential centre, especially in the area of San Damiano. For a long time Conca belonged to the Abbey of Montecassino. The area, indeed, was improved by the Benedictine Fathers who, in all likelihood, settled in the imposing Castel Pilano from the Lombard period onwards. According to subsequent tradition,

conca della campania and luxuriant nature glimpses enchanting the town has had a troubled history.

Historic town centre, detail 56 In 884, the centre was overcome by contains the wooden statue of the Saracen incursions and in the 10th century Madonna della Libera dating from 1600. it was conceded to the Count of Teano. The ancient Castello Principesco During the 11th century, the Abbot (Castrum Conchae) also contains the Atenolfo requested the return of the marvellous and rare hanging garden. town which, in 1066, was granted to Currently under restoration, the ancient Richard I, the Count of . Almost manor house underwent transformation a century later, in 1269, with Charles I of from a fortress to a residential palace Anjou, Conca became part of the Contea during the sixteenth century. The (Countship) of Teano and, in 1419, under magnificent Renaissance portal dates to the Aragonese reign, it became the this period, the entrance hall and a fresco domain of the Marzano family until the cycle; on the other hand, the jails, the king no longer included it among the stable and the guard post may be dated assets of the Crown. In 1467, finally, to the end of the eighteenth century. the territory was granted to the Dukes The Church of San Pietro Apostolo at of Capua, who became Princes in 1481. Conca dates to the 15th century and was During the 17th century it was subject restructured during the 20th century; it to raids from Giovanni Colessa, a bandit has a tufa facade and contains a bell known as Papone, and only in the 19th tower and buttresses. The structure has century did the Castle fall into the a nave and two aisles, it accommodates ownership of the Galdieri. The Castle a choir with an organ of ancient has played host to illustrious figures craftsmanship and a chapel noted for its including Torquato Tasso. fascinating altarpiece representing "The Only a number of rooms remain Last Supper”. The chapel also contains of Castel Pilano, as well as square-plan an admirable fresco of the Adoration of towers which reveal how the building the Magi and a panel of the Annunciation went from being a military structure to a from the Neapolitan school of the palace of the Renaissance. Of great value Renaissance period. The building holds is the stairway which leads from the a very valuable wooden triptych from courtyard to the piano nobile or main the 16th century, restored to its original floor, where the Chapel is situated. This splendour in 2005.

2 1/ Collegiate Church of S. Pietro

2/ Sanctuary of S. Salvatore Seus S. Maria della Libera

3/ Church of Soccorso, remains of the original 15th century foundations

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58 12

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1/ Old olive press, Path from Conca della Campania centre stands the beautiful Collegiate Church of San waterfall along the Sentiero dei Mulini (path volcanic rock. Moving beyond the ruins remains to the waterfall on the Rivo river Pietro Apostolo, which goes back to the 15th of the mills). The area is dominated by the river of the north-west gate after a short downward The path leading to the waterfalls of Conca century. Towards the end of the town, near Rivo di Conca, which rises from lands known stretch near an ancient bridge, the path 2/ Old mill, remains begin from the heart of the ancient town. the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Libera and as "Valle" on the slopes of the crater of the continues to the left and becomes enshrouded The route starts from Piazza IV Novembre, the remains of the Chiesa del Soccorso, moving extinct Roccamonfina Volcano to the north of in dense vegetation; it ends near a typical stone 3/ Pathway, goes along Via Roma for about 250 metres, past the evocative arches of the ancient miller’s Conca, and it plunges into a precipice of about 50 bridge ascending behind the waterfall. detail descending and crossing the historic centre house, head for the north-west gate of Conca. metres, producing the spectacular Waterfalls of of Conca della Campania. At 100 metres from An explosion of greenery coincides with the Conca which, in the rainy seasons, are filled to 4/ Falls on the Rivo the entry-point to Via Roma, on the right, dug-up section of the route which leads to the capacity and crash noisily onto the outcrops of 60 1/ Panorama

Historic town centre, 2/ 3/ details

Along Via Roma, the palaces of the Saraceno and Serao families catch the eye. The first partially restored palace was the birthplace in 1679 of Monsignor Francesco Saraceno, the bishop of Lorima, in China. The main facade of the building boasts two intact dual lancet windows with Gothic arches and with mouldings in local stone artistically engraved in the same style. The Santuario di Santa Maria della Libera o del Salvatore (Sanctuary of Holy Mary of Freedom or of the Saviour) is located near the end of the town, which was united in 1843 - by Bull of the bishop of Urbino - to the Collegiate Church of San Pietro, with complete settlement of all financial obligations. A few ruins remain of the nearby Chiesa del Soccorso, dating to the 15th century, since it was partly demolished after 1950. The delights of this territory are due in no small part to a thriving nature. One may mention the magnificent forest of Cesima, the chestnut coppice of the Stagli, the forest of Friello and the Park of Bartoli Galdieri not far from the medieval village (this latter being the work of Italy’s greatest 20th century landscapist Pietro Porcinari), where still today there survive thirty species of rare, long-trunk trees. 3

1

The Nazi massacre of 1943 text was first read out to them, then there was a pistol shot to The history of Conca della Campania is packed with significant the head followed by a volley of machine-gun fire. The ultimate events, some also tragic in nature. In November 1943, in the ward savagery recorded in official documents was said to have occurred of Orchi, one of the most frightening Nazi reprisals to take place on the 4th of November 1943 in a rural area not far from the ward in Italy occurred: a patrol from the Herman Goering division, of Piantoli, the “Villa Del Monte”, where the Germans confined notorious for the atrocities at Marzabotto, threw the town into five persons who had been apprehended the previous day turmoil with fire and plunder. The round-up also went on at Cave. by recourse to trickery. To the many human losses of that year In a written eyewitness report kept in American war archives, one must be added the destruction of important buildings of historic reads that the killings occurred in groups of three persons: a short and artistic value, such as Palazzo Galdieri Bartoli. 2 62 1/ Local cheeses 1 2 2/ Black Caserta pig

Notes // Not to be missed Never forgotten tastes and trades // Don’t miss them // Religious feasts •Castello Galdieri Typical products and crafts Shows and events •Bonfire night of San Giuseppe, •Church of Maria SS. della Libera Chestnuts, hazelnuts, “porcini” mushrooms, •Festival of Mazzabotta Paesana, 19th March - Conca della Campania •Church of San Pietro Apostolo sheep ‘ricotta’ cheese, the black pig breed from 2nd ten-day period in July, Conca della Campania •San Luca Fair, 1st Monday in April, (free access only on Sunday morning) Caserta and chestnuts in syrup. •Feast of the Assunzione at Conca, Conca della Campania •Chiesa del Soccorso 1/31 August, Conca della Campania •Maria SS. Assunta, •Path from Conca della Campania centre Forget the city // •Pasta- and bean-themed Feast, 25th April, Piantoli/ Conca della Campania to the waterfall on the Rivo river Nature and pathways 14th August, Cave / Conca della Campania •San Filippo and San Giacomo, last Sunday The territory is like an impressionistic palette •Festivalbeer - last week in August, in May, Vezzara/ Conca della Campania For information: Comune of Conca della Campania with many nuances of colour, from the dark Conca della Campania •San Marco, 15th August, tel. 0823 923221 green of the oak and chestnut woods all the way •Chestnut-themed Feast, 2nd Sunday in October, Cave / Conca della Campania through to the bright colour of the meadows Vezzara/ Conca della Campania •San Bartolomeo, and vineyards. 24th August, Catalli/ Conca della Campania •Pilgrims’ path from Conca della Campania •Maria SS. Della Libera, 1st Sunday to the Santuario dei Lattani in September, Conca della Campania •Path from Conca della Campania centre •Madonna Bambina, to the waterfall on the Rivo river 8th September, Orchi/ Conca della Campania

64 The small villages of Tora e Piccilli are located along the hills of the north slope of the massive Roccamonfina volcano; these are important viewing points and strategic locations located between the ancient and the Volturno valley. The area, inhabited by a number of pre-Roman population groups connected in all likelihood with the Samnites (as witnessed by the archaeological evidence associated with a sanctuary identified in the Cappelluccia area), is almost certain to have been occupied by the Romans between the end of the 4th and the beginning of the 3rd centuries B.C., as suggested by the remains of a number of country villas identified in the districts of Galluccio and Castellone and by a reference contained in a text from Cato (de Agri Cultura, XII, 4) relating to increased production activity and the exploitation of limestone and volcanic rock quarries in the territory of nearby Rufrae (Presenzano). Tora e Piccilli belonged to the Contea (Countship) // where the tower still dominates the tower // where and Diocese of Teano when under Lombard domination (6th century), and was then entrusted in fief to a Lombard Baron. A number of lands were then earmarked for the Monastery of Santa Maria in Cingla di , while the property rights of San Felice di Tora were claimed in 1019

tora e piccilli tora by the Abbey of Montecassino.

Capuchin Monastery

66 In the 12th century the town belonged to the principality of Capua and the domain of Federico II. In 1453, during the seigniory of the Galluccio and Marzano families, Alphonso of Aragon re-established the boundaries of both domains in order to settle a dispute between these seigniories and the feudatory of Presenzano. At the beginning of the 17th century the University of Tora was divided into four villages: Piccilli constituted the terziere (term denoting a medieval town division) and Tuoro, Foresta and Margherita were the casali. In the second half of the 18th century the domain passed to the Filangieri from the Arianello branch, and this situation continued until the abolition of the feudality. It was only in 1807 that a sovereign order reunited both towns into a single administration bearing the name of Tora e Piccilli. The modern history of Tora e Piccilli is marked especially by the events which occurred during the last world war. Historic town centre, The town, demonstrating praiseworthy 1/ 2/ scenes/details civic virtue, gave refuge to a number 3/ Panorama of Jewish families. Following fierce raids

3

12

68 by German troops, fifty citizens from the walls and impressive entrance gates. The township were deported to Germany and structure, declared a national monument many others were assigned to complete in 1939, was built on a squared pyramid the fortification works of the Gustav line. trunk and dates back to the 12th century. An admirable instance of human It is a structure on several levels and its solidarity, for which in 2004 the town strategic military and economic function was granted the Silver Medal for Civilian remained unchanged over time; this is Merit due to acts of self-sacrifice during explained by its hilltop position between the Second World War. the ancient Via Latina and the Volturno Before you come near to the residential valley, along which the most convenient centre in the country ward of Foresta, in communication routes for Lazio, Abruzzo, the Perate locality, you may happen upon the Molise and Campania developed over the remarkable ciampate regliu riàuru centuries. Despite the many restoration (footprints of the devil). There are 56 works and modifications carried out to footprints deeply embedded on a slope the original structure, the history of a of dark leucitic tufa, left by hominids of community and of the illustrious figures the Inferior Paleolithic age. Popular who stayed there is preserved intact tradition refers to them as “of the devil” within this imposing edifice. on the basis that only a demon could Another important building is the Church walk on the volcanic rock without getting of San Giovanni Apostolo, located on burnt. The footprints are visible on the the road leading to Piccilli. The building, edge of a trachyte ridge of one of the 21 probably of medieval origin, was subject volcanic cones of Roccamonfina. to a number of architectural intervention Arriving in the town and walking along works in 1700. Access is provided by a the small streets of Tora, it is not hard to wide double staircase, characterised in find the highest point of the town, where the lower section by a mixtilinear portal you can admire the mighty quadrangular and in the upper section by a triangular Norman Tower, part of the ancient tympanum surmounted by spires with a Castle fortified by the Normans with large, finely-ornamented rectangular

Historic town centre, details 70 1/ Pathway, detail

2/ Argynnis Adippe, a butterfly

3/ Footprints of the Devil

window. The interior is based on a Greek pilasters, and there is an interesting cross plan with a single nave, barrel portal with a fascia of dog-tooth ashlars, vaults with lunettes and chapels with a large window and a triangular stucco and marble altars created in the timpanum. The interior is graced with Late Baroque style, with an interesting side chapels, a broad transept, a chancel majolica floor. The chapels also preserve and a wooden choir of uncertain significant 17th century paintings. attribution. The larger altar may be dated The Church of Sant'Andrea Apostolo to 1752 and is surmounted by a painting is also of great historical interest: the representing the Presentation of Jesus portal of the original medieval structure at the Temple with St. Simeon. is preserved, crafted from local tufa rock It also preserves valuable paintings and surmounted by a lunette. It contains and frescos from the eighteenth a fresco portraying the image of Saint centaury Neapolitan school. Andrew. Also of great interest is the In the centre of Tora one is struck Cappuchin Convent built after 1707 by the massive structure of the through the auspices of the Duke Palazzo Ducale. It was built around Domenico Galluccio which, from 1806 to the mid-eighteenth century by the Dukes 1815, was the seat of the Town Hall of Tora, the Galluccio family, and located before being used as military hospital outside the walls. It runs from the edge of for soldiers in Garibaldi's army. present-day Piazza Umberto I as far as Via Don’t forget to visit the Parish Church Roma, lending its character to the entire of San Simeone. The original structure backbone of the town on which it stands. must have already been in existence in Today the palace is privately owned. 1575, as documented in registers maintained in the archives of this place of devotion. It was restored in 17th century and acquired its present monumental Late Baroque forms from 1740 onwards. The principal facade is articulated by 3

The ancestor slope some weeks after a consisting of 19 footprints; the number of known extant of Neanderthal man volcanic eruption, when the path C: 9.98 metres long footprints to over one hundred Footprints of the devil material deposited must still and consisting of 10 footprints and which significantly According to popular tradition, have been relatively soft; they detectable on the outcrop expanded the terrain of the 56 fossil footprints would then have been covered of rock. They are distributed scientific interest. In 2007 the preserved in the valley of the over by the volcanic ash of a along a steep slope, they site itself, as well interesting Zingari forest were left by subsequent explosive phase, appear asymmetrical and routes to the site, were made a supernatural entity, and then brought to light only plantigrade and, in some cases, safe and properly organised. as “ciampate regliu riàuru” after subsequent erosion. the depressions of the heel and The remarkable discovery at (footprints of the Devil). They Until their discovery, there were the forefoot are clearly visible, Tora e Piccilli has stimulated are visible in the Perate locality, only three human footprints as well as the plantar arch. experts to unearth a on the edges of a trachyte ridge extant from the same era. The feet measured around 20 considerable quantity of one of the 21 volcanic They were attributable to Homo cm. in length and 10 cm. in of valuable scientific data cones of Roccamonfina, and Heidelbergensis, the ancestor width, with an average pace of on the progenitors of it has been possible to date of Neanderthal man, appearing 60 cm. and stride (double pace) the human species. them - thanks to the use of between 800 and 100 thousand of about 120 cm., for a potassium-argon radiometric years ago. The forest footprints individuals no taller than dating system - to a period follow three paths, all oriented one metre and a half. between 385,000 and 325,000 in a South-East direction (path Subsequent excavation work years ago. They are believed A: 13.40 metres long and carried out in 2005, and 1 2 to have been left by three consisting of 27 footprints; ensuing research, uncovered individuals descending the path B: 8.69 metres long and fresh evidence which brought 72 1/ Hazelnuts 1 2 2/ Honey

Notes // Not to be missed Forget the city // Don’t miss them // Religious feasts •Devil’s Footprints (by reservation) Nature and paths Shows and events •Sant’Antonio, 13th June - Tora e Piccilli •Norman tower (by reservation) The territory of Tora e Piccilli has a very rich •At the Foot of the Norman Tower - •San Simeone, August/September - •Parish church of St. Simeon natural landscape. One’s attention is attracted 1st and 2nd ten-day period in July - Tora Tora e Piccilli •Church of Sant’ Andrea Apostolo not only by the luxuriant woods populated by •Sagra del Tarallo - •San Giovanni, August - Tora e Piccilli •Church of San Giovanni Apostolo various species of flora and fauna, but by the 3rd ten-day period in August - Piccilli •Feast of San Simone Profeta, many water sources, caves scooped out of the August/September - Tora For information: Comune of Tora e Piccilli tufaceous rock and the old peasant shelters still tel. 0823 924227 visible amidst the dense greenery.

Never forgotten tastes and trades // •From the Devil’s Footprints Typical products and crafts to the Santuario dei Lattani Chestnuts, chestnut honey, hazelnuts, grapes, •From the Taverna S. Antonio cherries and aromatic herbs. to the Ciampate del Diavolo Baskets and typical handmade wicker goods, •Path from the ancient village still woven by hand. of Caranci to the Ciampate del Diavolo

74 Marzano Appio is situated on the north-eastern slope of Roccamonfina volcano, in a dense chestnut wood setting. The town, like nearby residential areas, has a larger central nucleus around which smaller centres are located. The ruins of country villas in the Sarcioni area and the position and plateau shape of the territory which dominates the surrounding valleys, suggest that a permanent settlement once existed from pre-Roman times. The name of the town derives // the memory of the castle from the Latin name Marcius, to which was added the name Appio, probably because the residential heart was founded by Appio Claudio. From the High Middle Ages onwards, Marzano was part of the Diocese and the Lombard Contea of Teano. From 1180 to 1464, when it was confiscated and became royal state property,

marzano appio the town became the domain of the Marzano family.

Castle, detail of the tower 76 In 1498 it was assigned to Don Giovanni hornbeams and a great quantity Borgia, the Duke of Candia and in 1507 and variety of wild flowers, which make to Consalvo Femandez di Cordova, this one of the most charming areas the commander-in-chief of Ferdinando of the Mountain Community. il Cattolico, from which it passed The town is characterised by enchanting to his daughter Chiara and, finally, glimpses of portals, churches and other to her son (1529). architectural features from various In 1544 the territory along with all its epochs. Well-known for the salt market hamlets was granted to Tiberio De which was held around the Corree Gennaro, from whom, following varying Lake, it is traversed at several points fortunes, it passed to Ansaldo Grimaldi, by the ancient lavic flagstones of Via the Marquis of Modugno. Subsequently, Latina, particularly well-preserved the city was put up for action “de ordine in the vicinity of Sarcioni. Sacri Concili” and came into the The Castle stands on the top of ownership of Antonio Monile, who left Terracorpo hill, a 13th century structure it to his sons who in turn sold it in 1629 based on a rectangular plan designed to Don Andrea Laudati. He was for military purposes. Today the facade succeeded by his son Agostino, who is almost completely intact, and the in 1635 was granted the title of Duke ornamental features of the windows by King Filippo IV. evoke Neapolitan architectural At the beginning of the 18th century, production of the 15th century. Laudati sold the land to Don Pietro Lagni. Near the structure is an overhead From him it passed to Don Andrea passageway, used by noblewomen Masimiro D'Ambrosio, the Duke Delli to pass from the Castle to the Church Church of S. Maria Maggiore: Quadri and, finally, to Count Giulio del Balzo. of Santa Maria Maggiore. The church, 1/ detail The town of Marzano Appio boasts built in the 12th century and restored 2/ the façade a landscape of great charm and variety: under Queen Giovanna I of Anjou, 3/ Castle of Terracorpo, chestnut coppices, Turkey oak, is recorded in the Bull of Pope Sisto IV detail of the window 2 of one of the towers

1 3

78 Panorama

The Marzano Appio castle reasons by the Marzano family, which held corbels for the arcades. An architecturally interesting work from the town as a feud from 1180 to 1464 i.e. In its present form the structure the 15th century, the castle rises from the top up until the time that it was confiscated is the product of interventions made after of Terracorpo Hill, from which it dominates and transformed into crown land. the second half of the 15th century. the surrounding countryside. It has a rectangular structure and on the It does not have the typical characteristics The original building dates to around the main façade, with fine tuff stone window of medieval fortifications but rather end of the 13th century and in all probability frames, it features towers with crenelated the balanced and harmonious lines was constructed for strategic and military copings where still today one can see the of a magnificent residential palace.

80 1/ Church of the Annunziata, detail of the façade

2/ Lake of the Corree

of 1474. Its present-day appearance In the ward of Ameglio is the Church shows signs of part of the works of San Giacomo Apostolo, of particular carried out in the 16th century and interest for its limestone facade in the Baroque period. The facade enclosed between two bell towers. is of a two-fold architectural order, The interior, with its single nave leading and the tufa portal is located to the apse, is decorated with in the lower order, enriched by pseudo-chapels and pilasters with a bas-relief portraying the Madonna Ionic capitals at the walls. and Child seated on the throne. The surrounding countryside To the side of the entrance are two contributes to the charm of this town: niches accommodating portrayals the chestnut woods, Turkey oaks of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. and many wild flowers alternate The Renaissance Chapel of the most with delightful waterways and holy Trinity, adjacent to the body of remnants of ancient mills. the Church but on a lower level, has Corree Lake is on the Casilina road, an interesting tufa portal at its facade, cone-shaped and set between rocks decorated with small pillars and of granite. It is typically volcanic capitals bearing the motifs of plants. in origin and form: after the volcano The Chapel of Santa Maria del became extinct the craters carried Carmine is located in the locality the waters, which thereby turned of Valle Cupa. Here, cleaning work into lakes. In the summer months, carried out in 1967 brought to light the town hosts many events frescos from the 15th century, one and religious feasts. of which portrays a Madonna with Child, revealing an unambiguous cultural influence from Umbria.

1

Church of the Annunziata Coree Lake The Church of the SS. Annunziata The unusual morphology of Coree Lake is situated in the Grottole area and the dark waters at the bottom have and was probably built in 1322. fed the ancient legend according to which The heraldic insignias of a number of the there used to be a farmyard in this area which founding families of Marzano are carved was engaged in threshing activity on the 26th in the architraves at the entrance, and in the of June - the holy day of Saint Anna - thereby lunette one may discern traces of a fresco. breaking a holy day of rest. The angry saint is The interior consists of a single nave, said to have caused the farmstead to sink, with a depressed barrel vault on pilasters, swallowing up man and harvest alike. completed by a chancel and flat apse. The legend tells that on the night of Saint Anna, Half-destroyed during the Second World War, the noise of the stamping of oxen and horses the church was then restored can be heard rise out of the depths, as well and re-opened for worship in 1956. as the chants and wails of the threshers.

2

82 1/ Cherries 1 2 2/ Cherry tree in flower

Notes // Not to be missed Never forgotten tastes and trades // Don’t miss them // Religious Feasts •Terracorpo Castle (not accessible) Typical products and crafts Shows and events •San Nicola, 1st Sunday of Easter - •Church of Santa Maria Maggiore Chestnuts, hazelnuts, cherries, grapes, •San Giacomo Fair 25/26th July - Ameglio/ Marzano Appio •Corree Lake fruit and vegetable products and preserves Marzano Appio •Madonna della Pietà, 2nd Sunday in May - •Ancient mills sott’olio (preserved in oil) •Sagra della castagna (Chestnut-theme feast), Campagnola/ Marzano Appio Craftwork barrels are still being made, end of October - Marzano Appio •Madonna dei Fiori, For information: Comune of Marzano Appio as well as chestnut wood and wicker baskets. 4th Sunday in May - Tuoro Funaro/ Marzano Appio tel. 0823 929212 •Madonna dei Fiori, Lose yourself in the city // 3rd Sunday in September -Campagnola Nature and pathways •Madonna di Costantinopoli, 1st Sunday in Deserving attention is the charming Corree Lake, August - Marzano Appio immersed in luxuriant forests such as the Bosco •Sant’Elena, 1st Sunday after the 15th August - degli Zingari between Marzano Appio Tuoro Casale/ Marzano Appio and Tora e Piccilli, containing a wealth •Sant’Antonio, last Sunday in August - of rare species of flora and fauna. Marzano Appio •Path from the ancient town of Caranci •Maria della Consolazione, 3rd Sunday to the Ciampate del Diavolo in September - Ameglio/ Marzano Appio •Madonna della Cintura, last Sunday in September - Tuoro Funaro/ Marzano Appio 84 Teano rises up 196 metres above sea level, on the eastern slope of the massif of Roccamonfina and of the valley separating it from Monte Maggiore. The modern town was built on much of the remains of the ancient Teanum Sidicium, founded at the end of the 4th century B.C. by the Samnite tribe of the Sidicini, on a site already the centre of a number of Italic sanctuaries active from at least the 6th century B.C. along the communication axes between Lazio, Campania and Samnio. The urban perimeter of the ancient city, the product of the cynoecism of a series of villages dislocated as far as the furthest hilly ranges of the Trebulani mountains, appears to be defined by the remains of the original fortifications, by the pre-Roman necropolis and by the evocative nature path which unfolds along the river Savone.

// a museum to memory// a museum to During the 4th century A.D. Teano was an Episcopal seat, and it was abolished between 555 and 860. Conquered by the Lombards in 594, it became

teano a military settlement watch over the border territory.

The Duomo, the crypt 86 Gastaldo, a dependency of Capua, also formed part of the Contea of Caserta, with Pandenolfo, obtaining independence from 981 under Landolfo and Gisulfo. This period corresponds with a process of urban development, which was to culminate in the construction of a new comital building (loggione), testimony to the separation between the comital administration (castle) and the public administration (the new comital building). It was in this important Lombard Contea that two of the first documents in the vernacular language were 4 compiled in 963. the Placito di Teano and the Memoratorio, currently preserved in the archive of Montecassino. The Benedictine order, which retained three important monasteries over the centuries at Teano, had its principle seat here for a number of decades. After the Saracen destruction of the Cassinese abbey and the killing of its Abbot Bertario (in October 883), the surviving monks took refuge in the town’s monastery, bringing with them some of the treasure from the Abbey and the original copy of the Rule written by the founder. 1 5

1/ Palazzo Altobelli, the fountain

2/ Casafredda, the falls

3/ Panorama

4/ The Duomo, detail

5/ Church of the Annunziata, 2 3 detail 88 The Duomo, the interior

90 Subsequently, Teano was granted as a domain to the Marzano, the Carafa, the Borgia and the Gaetani families. On the 26th October 1860, not many kilometres from the centre, Vittorio Emanuele and Garibaldi met one another near the Bridge of San Cataldo. Public monuments of great historical value, such as the Roman Theatre, demonstrate the importance of what ancient literary sources from Polibio to Strabone refer to as one of the principal towns of southern Campania. This public building, from the Late Hellenistic period, was built on the eastern slopes of the Villino S. Antonio elevation, a short distance from the zone known as ‘San Pietro a Fuco’, identified - on the basis of documentary and antiquarian evidence - with the forum of Teanum Sidicinum. The monument is in a good state of preservation and forms an integral part of the fabric of the ancient town, defined as it is by two parallel east-west streets, one of which is based on the orthogonal street network still partially to be seen in the modern city plan.

1

1/ Theatre

The Duomo, 2/3/4/ details

2 34

92 Over half of the whole surface area until it reached a diameter of over in all likelihood, this made the building Of the original nucleus of the Benedictine of the original structure is still visible 80 metres, still pivoting around the unfit for use, yet it is probable that the settlement at Teano (going back possibly today, divided along the axes of the Hellenestic orchestra. External stage structure did not collapse, to the 6th century), the Church of San cavea. Of the latter, the sections ambulatories were built as well as and that the capitals and other Benedetto is still visible. It was restored made out of stone work are clearly a majestic rectilinear stage structure, ornamental features vanished as in 1750 and then in 1876. The structure recognisable and are often incorporated with a row of monolith columns in a result of a series of subsequent thefts. has a nave and two aisles, each in cementitious stone walls. correspondence with the central stage The Cathedral is certainly of historical terminating in an apse, and there is The first building phase of the theatre door. The scaena frons was equipped interest: it was built at the beginning external brick decoration. The ground may be dated to the last twenty with a splendid ornamental display which of the 12th century to a design by Andrea plan is typical of devotional edifices of years of the 2md century B.C., was intended to treat themes \ relating Vaccaio. Restoration works were carried the Carolingian era in Campania, as demonstrated by imposing vaulted to the imperial virtutes (fertility of the out during the 16th and 17th centuries, with its Corinthian columns and capitals, substructions which supported an earth, abundance, military victories) - in and it was finally rehabilitated artificial terrace whose function was due deference to the elevated nature by Roberto Pane after the Second also to normalise the hill-facing facade of the commissions. World War, despite war damage. of Sant’Antonio, the second building Many valuable artistic sculptures are The facade is preceded by a portico phase may be dated to the Late located in the building, amongst which - resting on architraves; it is of recent Hellenistic period, corresponding to in addition to colossal imperial figures construction and contains two granite a significant restoration of the state and eminent local personages - sphinxes from the Imperial Age. structure including the insertion of feature statues redeployed from The bell tower and the Chapel of San various architectural features of prized the Augustinian age. Paride are the only remaining parts workmanship. A radical transformation Also of interest are the still-preserved of the original structure. The base of the structure occurred in the years portions of the original floor, in of the impressive bell tower is in ancient between the reign of Septimus Severus travertine stone and white limestone, marble and the chapel holds paintings and that of Gordiano III, as may be decorated with iconographic by De Mura and boasts splendid inferred from the dedicatory inscription themes in Pompeian style. 18th century stuccowork. which must have appeared on the At several points, the complex showed The interior has a truss ceiling first epistyle of the stage-front. serious damage as a result of the and is divided into a nave and two In this phase, in fact, the cavea expanded earthquake which occurred between aisles defined by granite columns at the expense of the artificial terrace, the 4th and the 5th century A.D.: with Corinthian capitals.

1/ Monastery of S. Antonio, fresco

2/ Archaeological Museum of Teano, bust of warrior in clay

1 2

94 suggesting a pagan temple dedicated to the Goddess Ceres. Other convents in the town were the women’s convent of Santa Maria de Intus, founded in 860, restored in the 12th century and worked over during the 18th century; the monastery of Santa Maria de Foris, built by the Lombard Counts of Teano in 987; the monastery of Santa Reparata, which may be dated to the 9th century and was abolished in 1500 due to its position outside the town; and finally the complex of Santa Caterina, built during the 16th century under the auspices of Clerice Orsini, Princess of Teano. The historic-artistic heritage of the town must, finally, include mention of the Church of San Paride, which may be dated to between the 9th and 10th century, and recently restored; the Church of San Francesco from the 14th century; the Church of San Pietro in Acquariis, paleochristian in origin and then rebuilt in the 14th century; finally the complex of Sant'Antonio the abbot, with its splendid fresco cycle from 1400 and an equally interesting Late-Gothic cloister. Also of great historical and cultural importance is the museum of Teanum Sidicinum.

and with the archaeological discoveries - some at Torricelle, Campofaio, Gradavola, Carrano The museum of Teanum Sidicinum of remarkable merit - which have taken place and Orto Ceraso, with materials going back Of world renown, the Museum of Teanum primarily during the last decades of the 20th to the imperial Roman age of 5th century B.C.. Sidicinum was inaugurated in 2001 and housed century. Thanks to the presence of about The Museum of Garibaldi and of the in the monument complex of the so-called a thousand exhibits, this allows the story Risorgimento has been recently opened within “Loggione e Cavallerizza”. The building, built of a city and its territory to be told, all the the Town Hall. It holds paintings relating in 14th century under the auspices of Marzano way from prehistory to late antiquity. to the unification of Italy, with representations family, is a magnificent example of Late Gothic The most important displays in the exhibition of the General and of the King, as well architecture, incorporating civil functions halls include the votive remains from Sidicini as relics belonging to important figures from (tribunal, armoury or seat of the nobility). sanctuaries, especially from the sacred area the famous Expedition of the Thousand. Partially transformed in succeeding centuries, unearthed in the Loreto area and from the it preserves two naves covered by cross vaults, devotional edifice at the archaeological area supported by ogive arches which date back at Fondo Ruozzo, from which a considerable to the original structure. quantity of ex-voto statuettes, crockery and Unlike other museums in Campania of ancient miniature ceramics were obtained. The founding, the Museum of Teano does not population density and wealth of the Sidicini have private collections or funds accumulated is demonstrated, moreover, by the funereal Archaeological Museum over time, but it has close links with the territory paraphernalia from the necropoleis discovered of Teano 96 Apple orchid

Notes // Not to be missed Lose yourself in the city // Don’t miss them // Religious Feasts •Historic centre Nature and pathways Shows and events •Via Crucis, Holy Wednesday - Teano •The Cathedral The territory of Teano boasts a wealth •3rd Camper Gathering - “Let’s meet up again •Feast of Sant’Antonio Abbot, (daily 7.00-12.30 hours; 14.00-19.00 hours) of springs and woods. The famous ferriere at Teano” 30th April - 4th May, Teano 17th January - Teano •Archaeological Museum (ironwork factories) are of great interest, •Vèrsano a Versàno - “New Wine Competition - •Feast of Sant’Antonio, (opening hours 8.30 - 19.30 closed on Tuesday) located along the banks of the river Savone. 1st weekend in June - Versano/ Teano 12th and 13th June - Teano •Theatre (by reservation ) They are enormous structures dating back •“Vinalia priora” Festival - “Luoghi del vino in festa”, •Feast of San Paride, May / October, Teano •Ferriere (ironwork factories) along to the first half of the 19th century, 4th, 5th and 6th of Augus - Teano •Teano jazz Festival - 2nd ten-day period of July, Teano the river Savone and still well-preserved. Industrial archaeology •Feast of Saints Cosma and Damiano, •“Summer in Teano”, last ten-day period is of great interest especially as represented in July / 1st ten-day period in August, Teano 26th September - Teano For information: Comune of Teano by the Ferriera Vecchia, located at a charming •Theatres of stone, 1st ten-day period in August, Teano •Feast of San Reparata, 8th October - Teano tel. 0823 875080 waterfall over 20 metres in height and subject •Garibaldi festivities - 26th October - Teano to a preservation order by the Italian Ministry •“Knowledge with taste, taste with knowledge” Unforgotten tastes and trades // for Cultural Heritage. - second and third ten-day period in December Prodotti tipici e artigianato •From Furnolo to Mount Atano along / 1st ten-day period in January - Teano Typical products and crafts the Savone delle Ferriere •“Fare Arte e Andar per Presepi”, Chestnuts, hazelnuts, cherries Christmas ‘Crib’ exhibition, December, Teano and extra-virgin olive oil •Flavours of Campania at Teano - Ancient trades with costume Breeding of the black pig from Caserta from the end of the 19th century - 3rd weekend in July

98 The last 3 km stretch of the coastline The historic archaeological of Baia Domizia belongs to the Regional park of Park of Roccamonfina-Foce Garigliano On the right bank, not far from the mouth of the Garigliano, is the historical-archaeological and forms its natural boundary. Towards park of Minturnae, which is State Property. the sea, Mediterranean scrub dominates, The park is based in the communal territory still untouched on 3 km of coastline, and of Minturno (Province of Latina) in the locality the dense vegetation is enriched by the of Marina di Minturno - mouth of the Garigliano. presence of dune plants which have It encompasses the archaeological zone colonised the beaches, managing of Minturnae (corresponding to a section to adapt to the salinity and the wind. of the ancient Roman colony which may be dated to 296 B.C.) and the Bourbon The once marshy zone to the rear Real Ferdinando Bridge. accommodates - in relation to the You can visit the Archaeological Zone drainage canals - rare migratory birds such and see many fascinating archaeological as the red heron, while some species of features such as the castrum and temple land tortoise or of marsh tortoise (such as dedicated to a deified Caesar, the republican the Emys orbicularis) also find refuge. forum with the Capitolium and the temple dedicated to Augustus. Then there is the The area extending from the pine forest imperial forum with the basilica and the to Foce-Garigliano was a sacred wood curia, the market, the urban baths, for the ancient Romans, dedicated to the a number of domus, the theatre, t Goddess Marica, nymph of the waters he urban tract of the Via Appia flanked and marshes. The Tower of Pandolfo by porticos, as well as a German // the natural boundary// the natural Capodiferro is located on a bend in the blockhouse from the Gustav Line. The Museum, located in the ambulatory Garigliano, to date closed to visitors but of the theatre, exhibits statues, inscriptions, for which restoration works are currently architectural ornamentation and coins. underway. Finally, there are the mofettes Near the Archaeological Zone is the along the river, a secondary form of Bourbon post office, the British war volcanic activity consisting of cold cemetery and the Roman aqueduct. emissions of carbon dioxide emanating from fissures in the ground.

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1/ Mouth of the Garigliano The bridge of the King The River Garigliano In the park, near the mouth of the river lies the The river Garigliano comes from the confluence 2/ The Real Ferdinando Bridge Bourbon “Real Ferdinando” bridge, a suspension of the river Gari o Rapido into the Liri river south 3/ Minturno, bridge over the river boundary which has divided of the town of Cassino, and its 38 km length archaeological digs Lazio from Campania since 1927. The “Real marks the border between Lazio and Campania, Ferdinando” bridge is the first catenary iron although until 1927 it belonged entirely to the suspension bridge in Italy, a good example of Italian area of . In ancient times, industrial architecture, then leading Europe from the Roccamonfina Volcano blocked its way, technical-construction point of view. Commissioned forming “Lake Lirino” until around 200,000 by Ferdinando II di Borbone, it was designed by the years ago, when erosion in the area engineer Luigi Giura, who also directed the works, of freed up the waters once again replacing the insecure boat connection with a bridge to flow towards the sea. which was used to cross the river for at least a From the point of confluence, the Garigliano century. The work was begun in 1828 and finished flows into the Golfo di (Tirrhenian Sea) on the 30th of April 1832: the King inaugurated it in the vicinity of the ancient Roan town ten years later on the 10th of May 1832. Access and of Minturnae on the northern bank visits to the bridge are possible from the historic- and near the tourist area of Baia Domizia archaeological zone of Minturno. on the southern bank. 2 3

100 In the immediate vicinity of the Regional castle. Not far away are the fascinating restoration and development, the name Pietra Mellaria. The historic Park are more typical little towns and remains of the ancient Via Latina, which it has managed to preserve this centre, also of Lombard origin, stands on villages of great charm, distinguished by linked Rome with Casilina. At Caianiello appearance until the present. a small elevation on the northern slopes the presence of ancient fortifications one may imbibe an atmosphere of , an ancient Commune of the of Monte Maggiore (1037 metres in which bespeak an age-old history. mysticism and history, with its ancient , is around 14 km height). The residential quarter developed Typical is Rocca d'Evandro, whose and characteristic churches, such as the from the Regional Park. Situated in the around the Tower, a structure with a populated area extends to the border Church of San Michele Arcangelo and highlands of Caserta near lower Lazio, rectangular plan built at the highest point between Campania, Lazio and Molise. the Church of Santo Stefano Protomartire. this is a town of very ancient origins of the medieval village. The following are It is about 16 km as the crow flies is the third Commune (4th century B.C.), already known to the the most significant monuments of the from Roccamonfina and borders on which gives access to the Regional Park. ancient Romans for its mineral waters. town: the Palazzo Ducale, the Church of the Commune of Galluccio. It is a delightful little town about 13 km Its Castle may be dated to the 7th Century. San Rocco, the Chiesa dell'Annunziata For centuries, life at Rocca d'Evandro from Roccamonfina as the crow flies. All art critics who have studied this and the former Convent of San Pasquale. was identified with that of its magnificent The medieval village of Vairano Patenora, majestic castle have been especially The residential quarter of Castle, today owned by the Commune. with its towered fortress, constitutes an fascinated by the arch-window on the is located 15.5 km from Roccamonfina Built around the first half of the 10th architectural system of rare beauty first floor, from which one can admire as the crow flies. Akin to a natural century due to its favourable strategic certain to fascinate the visitor at once. the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina as ‘amphitheatre’, it is set solidly on the position, it was the subject of serious A number of historical theories attribute well as the whole valley as far as the sea eastern ridge of Monte Caievola, its dispute. At the beginning of the 16th the first settlements in the area to the across the plain of Savone. Among the dwellings entrenched one on top of the century it was granted by King Ferdinando , the Ausoni, the Aurunci and the monuments worth visiting at Riardo is the other in a smooth downward slope to Ettore Fieramosca, the hero of the Etruscans. The ancient section of the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Stella, towards the plain, recalling the image challenge of Barletta and the then Duke town is located on the slopes of a hill which contains Byzantine frescos of of the traditional crib. The imposing of Mignano. Given its particularly topped by the medieval castle, while the significant artistic and historical interest, Castle stands at the topmost point of the inaccessible position, the castle was original quarter is enclosed within a wall while the wooden statue of the Madonna town. There is a tower in cylindrical form sought after by many people and was comprising 16 towers, now transformed may be dated to the 18th century. Also of and a small church (Santa Croce) which often used as a sanctuary in into dwellings whose beauty and considerable interest are the Grotto of was once used as a viewing point, circumstances of imminent danger. tranquility take one’s breath away. Dan Donato and San Isidoro, which understandable in that it overlooks the There is access to the Regional Park also The castle was built in the 11th century contains frescos from paleochristian art, whole of the surrounding plain, from from the Commune of Caianello, by Ripandolfo VI, but little is known about the Bosco della Monaca (Nun’s Wood), Venafro to Alife and the ancient Via which is about 8.5 km from Roccamonfina its original structure. It may be inferred the Chapel of the Madonna del Carmine Latina. Apart from the castle, there are as the crow flies and borders on the that it was very large because it could and, finally, the Fountain of Giaunciano. the larger historical and archaeological Commune of Marzano Appio. accommodate King Charles I and Pope is situated in the north- monuments form the past, including the The area of Judea contains significant Gregory X at the same time. One may eastern area of the Regional Park of Collegiate church of Sant’Eraclio and the architectural offerings, such as the conjecture from a number of documents Roccamonfina - Foce Garigliano, about 16 Convent of Santa Maria della Vigna. The remains of an ancient Castle of Norman that the current appearance of the km from the Park as the crow flies. Chiesa Matrice of Pietravairano, dedicated origin, built in tufa and reduced to ruins. structure dates back to between 1200 Around the 9th century, an early castle to Sant’Eraclio the protector, the African One can spy loopholes and battlements and 1300 and that, despite earthquake appeared under the dominion of the bishop and martyr, is among the oldest

tour of the castles // tour lands filled with ancient memories through the climbing plants that cover the and war damage and subsequent Lombards, and it became associated with parishes of the Diocese of Teano-Calvi.

_Pietramelara _Rocca d'Evandro _Caianello _Pietravairano _Riardo _Vairano Patenora

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graphics by Zelig texts and editing by Zelig photographs by Rossella Guarracino photograph 3 on page 7 by Danila Mastronardi photographs 2 on page 8 2 on page 88 1 on page 92 1 on page 94 by Antonio Fascitiello for information on accommodation photographs 3 on page 8 and other services in the region: 2 on page 72 tel. +39 0823 935518 2 on page 83 [email protected] by Giancarlo Izzo www.parcodiroccamonfina.it

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