Other Boulders

There are several other boulders on Bishop Peak which host a few problems on their textured faces, see the trail map on page 3 for their locations, or ask a local...

Trail Boulders:

Just before leaving the trees and entering the field you will see several boulders stacked next to each other, and a trail heading to the left. The most obvious route, is a short edge heading up the side of the boulder closest to the fork in the trails. If you take the trail to the left, it will lead you through he trees, past several good slack-linning spots, and past several’ short boulders with possible traverse problems on them, although nothing to write home about... The Traverse Boulder: presents As you enter the field, there is a large dike/earthen berm to your left, with a small pond behind it, as you make your way around, a trail will appear on the right, heading down through the trees, and the faint outline of rock is visible through the foliage. Head down the trail about 20 feet to access the climbable side of this usually ignored boulder. The best problem is to traverse along the face several feet from the ground. There are plenty of holds, ranging from slopers and buckets to thin edges and rails. Use your imagination to create a route that fits you. Bishop Peak Bouldering

The hummingbird boulder as seen as you approach it from the climber trail in the woods. Very identifiable by the collection of wood boards located at the walk-off... by Austin Moore

page 12 Bishop Peak, CA The Potato Boulder A large boulder located in the trees on the right side of the trail. Bishop Peak hosts a few good sized boulders, There are several bolts on top for a top rope, a machete is also useful each with multiple problems which are sure to although I have cleared out a good sized path keep most climbers busy for several weekends, or at Sacremento least one good afternoon session. Presently there are no access issues as all the boulders are located on public access land. Please stay on the trails and be respectful of the land and the access will stay open for Bishop Peak generations to come. The trails are open from dawn to dusk.

How to get there: Bishop peak, not to be confused with the town Fire Road of Bishop, is located in Beautiful San Luis Obispo, in Central California, off the 101. To get to the Bouldering area, take the Hwy 1/Santa Rosa St. exit from 101. Head north toward Morro Bay on Santa Rosa/Hwy 1. After a mile or so you will come to the entrance to Cal Poly University on your Right, and Highland Drive on the left. Turn onto Highland and follow it up the hill to a cul-de-sac at the end of the drive. Parking is permitted on only one side of the street (the right side if you are 1 driving back down...) and the trail head is marked by a large sign at the end of the road. 10’ Downclimb 2

When: You can expect to run into crowds on the weekends. Many people use bishop 3 X as a place to hike or run, and there is also sport/TR climbing on the hill further up the 4 trail. The climate in SLO is very mild and many of the boulders are in the shade. If your looking for some solitude, then steer clear of Pete and Clorrisa which while X 5 hosting the most and best problems, also draw the most climbers. My favorite time to climb is around 4:30 in the afternoon while it is still warm, but the sun has started to 6 set behind the mountain.

Eat and sleep: San Luis Obispo, or SLO as we call it, is home to an easy living type of climber, and generally friendly atmosphere. The Downtown area on Higuera Street is the best place to people watch and grab a bite to eat at one of the local sandwich shops. Gus’s Deli on Osos Street and High Street Deli are the two best places in town for a quick sandwich. Woodstocks Pizza has good eats and beer. Yanagi’s has the best sushi in town and is located at the corner of Johnson and Marsh. If your looking to camp, Montana de Oro has a nice campground with tent spots and F R F R 4. The Flake V2 a beach close by. 1. Left Edge V1 Route goes up the left facing flake, pretty sustained. About 5 feet to left of the large bulge. F R Guidebooks: If your looking to do some additional climbing in the area then stop by F R 5. Dyno-Sore V4 one of two climbing shops in town; Mountain Air Sports is located downtown on 2. Unnamed V1 Start on steep tall section of rock, up a few feet on sidepulls, dyno Just left of the bulge. to a square looking pinchy hold, then up to the top... highball Marsh Street and has climbing books, movies and gear. The definitive guide for the about 25’ F R F R area, referred to the locals as the “Tom Slater Guide” after its author, is called 3. Bulge V2 6. The Potato Bug V1 “California, Central Coast Climbs, San Luis Obispo” and has climbs ranging from Fairly obvious route up edges to small overhang and top out. Inquisition Several feet to the right of Dyno-Sore, head up obvious crack seam Wagon Caves several hours north, to Silly Rock, about an hour south... and thingy. The tallest “Boulder” route in the area... everything in between. page 2 page 11 Hummingbird Overview Approach from the main trail. Two boulders side by side offer several short problems.

Fire Road The Potato (page 4) Key

Walk-off Boulder Gate Walk-off Fence Feldman Loop Water Ridge Trail Trees 1 3 7 Trail 2 4 5 6 Clorissa 8 (page 4)

F R F R 1. Training Ground V0 5. Unnamed V2 Pete This lumpy portion offers several easy routes to the top. SDS - Start on large rail, pull up to side pulls and finally a large (page 6) Valley juggy finish. F R F R 2. Slot V6 6. Back Scratcher V1 Start at angled sloper slot left of tree, traverse in front of tree to Up the taller part of the boulder using large holds. A tree branch right and use dish to top. F R sticks out over the boulder waiting to snag the unwary climber. 3. Mantle V1 F R Description 7. Unnamed V3 Traverse F R A tricky problem up the side of the boulder. Boulder 4. Pinches V3 F R Fence (no topo) Use the sloping face to mantle to the easy top out. 8. Traverse V4 Start at #7, stay low on rail, then go up Pinches.

Hummingbird (page 10) Trail Boulder (no topo)

Fence

Boulder in the Woods (page 8)

4 Parking Highland Dr.

page 10 page 3 Clorissa Boulder in the Woods

This Boulder is the main attraction at Bishop Peak. Located in the large field, it is F R F R visible after emerging from the woods. 1. Unnamed V2 8. Roof Problem V2 Note: this boulder lies on the old trail up to the top of bishop, you will pass a sign Stay on the arete. SDS - Start under the roof. Get your hand in a thin jamb in the crack in the roof, Head up and over roof and holds to the top. First posted stating that you are entering a conservation area. Dont worry, your OK, just F R few moves are the crux. stay on the trail and try to take care to not cause any more erosion. 2. Unnamed V3 F R Head up the outer corner. 9. Unnamed V1 Mushy is the classic on this boulder and an area test piece. I have seen many people do F R Face problem. Ascend the tallest part of this section of the boulder. it a variety of ways. Avoid larger hold as a variation. 3. Peanuts V4 F R The tallest vertical face on the boulder. Start on tiny crimps and 10. Mantle Problem V0 smeary holds. Very thin. F R up and over... 19 4. Unnamed V0 F R Start with back to the oak tree. Avoid the temptation to stem 11. Unnamed V? 18 17 between the tree and the rock. Move up to a large flat bucket. Literally... F R F R 5. Unnamed V3 12. Arete 2 V1 Start with difficult undercling move on small holds. Avoid large Lie back sharp edge to rounded top. ledges to the sides at the top. 16 F R F R 6. Unnamed V0- 13. Mercury V9 Up the center of the main face using the crack and large holds. 15 Start on small side pull for left, and tiny crystal for right, arms F R almost fully outstretched, lunge for the V shaped pinch, then move 14 7. Unnamed V0 into position for a left hand dyno for the top 1 Start just left of overhang. Go up obvious route using line of holds and flake at top. 13 2 Walk Off 20 12 3

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The Boulder in the Woods, as seen from the trail as you approach it. In this photograph you are looking at “Peanuts” (#3). The top of the edge is about 20’ off the deck. The landing isn't perfect, so two pads are best and a spotter. Crawling out of the woods with a sprained ankle wouldn’t be much fun, having a buddy to carry you out piggy-back style is much better... page 4 page 9 Boulder in the Woods Clorissa Located in the woods. Follow the main trail up to the water tank, at the base of the tank is a F R F R faint climber trail leading into the woods. Follow it for about 100 yards. You will be looking at 1. Unnamed V4 11. DownUnder V2 “Peanuts” when you arrive at the boulder. SDS -Start hand in slot, right to sloper then up to mantle finish. SDS - Start with hands in slot, sit up and traverse low and right, go up and over bulge. F R F R 12. The Bulge V1 Oak Tree 2. Unnamed V5 SDS - Start at slot, traverse up and right, dyno for top jug, mantle Straight over the bulge. finish. F R F R 3. Mantle Problem V1 13. Unnamed V1 Start high, dynamic move for top, mantle finish... Start under the bulge, then avoid it by going right on small sidepull 5 and large pockets above. 4 F R F R 6 V3 7 4. Mushy V4 14. One Pocket Classic problem on Clorissa, start at obvious rails, go straight up to Go straight up between right facing side pull and small two finger 8 pocket. 3 side pull flake and sloper near the top, throw for the top hold and F R finish. V5 if done with SDS start. F R 15. Two Pockets V4 5. Corner Route V1 Start at small seams and undercling, up to large pinch then to 9 pockets, the upper right pocket is pretty good, the left one isn’t. Easy route up the corner, start with hands on large ledge, go either F R left, straight or right at top for a variety of finishes. Be sure to 16. Unnamed V1 2 arrange your crash pad accordingly or suffer the consequences... Obvious route up high section of boulder using small jugs and A bit harder from the SDS. ledges. Top out over bulge, or wimp out to the right on the large F R ledge. 10 Walk-off 6. Low Traverse Problem V8 F R Start low at the corner, traverse back to Route 1, finish with mantle, 17. Revenge of the Bulge V2 avoid using top holds prior to mantle move. Start on small undercling, and go up over the bulge using small F R crimps on the bulge, mantle finish, avoid suing holds from 7. Waterfall V1 problems on either side. F R Just to the right of Corner Route. 11 18. Mantle V0 F R 1 Jump to a mantle on the large block, feel for two large jugs at the 8. Waterfall 2 V3 top to finish. F R 12 Start at undercling, use jagged pockets and slopers to top. 19. Low Traverse V7 F R Start on large block, traverse entire boulder staying low, finish on 9. Easy Street V0 Mushy if your not too pumped... F R 13 A good warm-up, as well as for running laps on. Add a sit start to make it a V0+. When this gets old, start eliminating hand and foot 20. High Traverse V4 holds for some fun variations. It is possible to do the route using Start with hands on top, traverse entire boulder left to right, drop only three hand holds and smearing with feet... go play! down off top after reaching the corner but stay high. Helps if you have someone to move a pad under you as you traverse... F R 10. Unnamed V2 A good warm-up, as well as for running laps on. Add a sit start to make it a V0+. When this gets old, start eliminating hand and foot holds for some fun variations. It is possible to do the route using only three hand holds and smearing with feet... go play!

page 8 page 5 Pete Pete Pete is located slightly downhill from Clorissa in a pit to the left of the trail if your looking uphill. This boulder hosts fewer problems, but harder routes. Pete’s Problem is very crimpy. The AM Traverse will leave you pumped, even if you don't finish.

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Easy Downclimb

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6 Looking at the overhanging side of Pete. The problem next to the bush is Pete’s Problem. 2 5

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F R F R 1. Arm-Y V2 5. Credit Card V Up the corner behind the bush. Climbable at one time, but the bush Use the large vertical slot in the middle of the vertical face of the seems to have taken over... boulder, then use thin edge to top, easy top out. F R F R 2. Pete’s Problem V6 6. Laydown V1 The classic on this boulder. Start on your butt, grasping the lowest Use the large vertical slot in the middle of the vertical face of the crimpy rail. 4 rails to the top. Avoid other holds to the left and boulder, then use thin edge to top, easy top out. right. Good luck. F R F R 3. Colin’s Problem V4 7. AM Traverse V7 Start under corner.- up to right crimp left to blob with thumb hole Start on down climb area. Work around corner, when you reach and up. F R large slot, drop down to the big rail, then traverse along bottom 4. Unknown V5 with crimps and rails using heels hooks and toes around to Pete’s Problem start, then up Pete’s Problem. V-5 if you don't make it up Up the tallest vertical face. Sit-down start on giant rail. Fun Pete. problem, careful not to barndoor on upper holds.

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