TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

COSTA RICA: The Introtour

Resplendent Quetzal at Savegre, the very predictable, and landslide winner, of the BIRD-OF-THE-TRIP vote

16 – 26 February 2013

Tour Leader: Michael Retter (with Sam Woods as co-guide)

Report written by Sam Woods

Thanks to tour participant Linda Rudolph for contributing the Lesser Ground-Cuckoo photo Birds in RED are featured in the photos within the trip report 1

Although this was titled an “Introtour”, this should not mislead you into thinking the tour did not go after the 70 or so endemics of the region found in this tiny Central American nation, and therefore this tour offered much for even “old hands” of the Neotropics, in addition to offering new “tropical birders” a satisfying first dip into the megadiversity of the region. To illustrate this extreme diversity, and how it offers much even to “hardened” tropical birders, Tropical Birding guide Sam Woods, was along to learn the ropes for this tour, and to experience for the first time why Costa Rica draws people back time and again. Having had substantial experience in the Neotropics, having lived in Ecuador for some 7 years or so, and also having traveled to five South American countries already plus Mexico, you would perhaps think this tour would offer little in the way of new birds; wrong. Central America, and most notably Costa Rica and Panama, share some isolated mountain ranges which yield more than 100 endemics in this region, around 70 of which are found in Costa Rica alone. For this reason, Sam walked away with more than 70 LIFEBIRDS, in spite of a long history of guiding (and traveling) in the wider region already.

This tour, while being short, actually covers a lot of ground, and visits a range of important avifaunal regions in the country, made possible by the fact that Costa Rica is small and very accessible, with good roads permeating the country, making it feasible to visit a number of different faunal zones in even a short time. We started on the middle elevations of the Pacific Slope (Braulio Carrillo NP), before dropping into the moist lowlands of the Caribbean Slope at La Selva. After La Selva we moved back over to the Pacific Slope and the absorbing highlands, scouring the Savegre Valley for both quetzals and the Chiriqui endemics. Then we moved down slope to the sweaty lowlands of the Pacific side, at Carara National Park, before taking in the highlands once more at the world famous cloudforest of Monteverde, before finally looping back to Costa Rica’s bustling capital, San Jose.

This tour is far from about ONE bird, although you could be forgiven for thinking it was, especially when we visited the Savegre Valley, with its blatant and bold marketing of their prime “bird of paradise”, the legendary Resplendent Quetzal. So first off, to deal with potential questions hanging in the air out there regarding this scarlet-and-emerald beauty; YES, we did see it, and YES we did see it well; very, very well indeed. We not only had walkaway views at a nest site in Savegre, but were also gifted views of both the male and female coming down to a scenic mountain river to bathe at length to the joy of photographers and videographers in the group. However, it is most likely that everyone will remember the remarkable male that sat at eye level, with his long, long emerald “tail feathers” (actually formed from the elegant upper tail covert plumes), hanging seductively below him. All the while his jeweled green coat shimmered with the changing sunlight, and its breast glowed scarlet. For good reason, this species is often touted as one of the greatest birds on Earth, and after this show it was pretty hard to argue with that. Of course, with such a splendid performance from Costa Rica’s “pin-up bird”, nothing else could realistically get a look in for top bird of the trip, and it was no surprise to find the quetzal had not only won the popular vote for BIRD-OF-THE-TRIP, but had done so with a landslide victory!

2 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report There is, however, much more besides JUST the quetzal in Costa Rica, which sometimes gets forgotten in the substantial wake of the quetzal; we enjoyed seeing SEVEN different members of the trogon family; puffbirds were represented with TWO species of their own, providing a new family for some in the group. On top of this were THIRTY different hummingbird species (many of which were seen at arm’s length thanks to an impressive number of feeder locations); and TWENTY-SIX different parrots, including the mighty, and genuinely rare, Great Green Macaw. Some of the NON-quetzal standouts were Snowcap, a beautiful hummingbird that cannot possibly disappoint; some snazzy, regional endemic specialties like Spangle-cheeked Tanager, and the gobsmackingly gorgeous Golden-browed Chlorophonia. A brief sojourn into some drier country than most of the tour, was sufficient to pick up a Lesser Ground- Cuckoo creeping quietly, and ever so slowly, through the underbrush directly towards us; clearly thinking that if it sidled up to us at this sloth-like pace, we would not see it! This bird was wrong-very wrong-and this species, which is far from regular on this itinerary, was very popular during the final dinner reflections on the tour.

Costa Rica provided some choice night birds for us this year too, and with minimal effort required too, for a day-roosting Black-and-white Owl seen brilliantly near steamy Carara National Park, due in no small part to the local knowledge and generosity of our local driver Dennis, which by the end of the trip had almost convinced us that he was actually an undercover bird guide! In addition to a strong bird list, which surpassed 410 species, a record for the tour, we were also courted by some classic Neotropical animals, such as Mantled Howler (Monkey), and spider-monkeys, to giant Blue Morpho butterflies flapping lazily through the understory, to Collared Peccaries shuffling through the forest, there was plenty outside of the bird realm to admire too. And then, of course, there was the country itself: Costa Rica is a shining example and world leader when it comes to eco, nature, and bird tourism. This tiny nation is adorned with many super hotels, lodges, and reserves to keep birders and nature lovers busy, and more than happy, throughout this classic, absorbing, and ever-popular tour. Who will guide this next year, I do not know; but I, for one, have fallen under this country’s spell, like so many have before me. Do not make the mistake of thinking this is only appropriate for the beginner/first-timer to the tropics; this ranked right up there with the many other ventures into the tropics I have already taken. I sincerely hope to return to this friendly nation soon: PURA VIDA, as they say (and brand) Costa Rica!

TOP FIVE BIRDS OF THE TRIP:

1 Resplendent Quetzal It could not possibly lose after the remarkable lengthy showing in Savegre that imprinted this bird indelibly in our hearts and memories forever.

2 Golden-browed Chlorophonia Surprisingly difficult to see as it forages in the canopy, this species, which is decked out in the brightest of greens imaginable quite simply snatches the breath away on any sighting; it is just so bright, and so attractive, and quite unlike anything else in the country. (photo left)

3 Snowcap The jewel in the crown of Costa Rica’s hummingbirds, by virtue of its unique dress: a neat white cap is perched on the deepest of purple bodies, a combination which allures all who travel to the country in

3 search of birds (and many others besides). Being able to watch them foraging at eye level with the sun on their backs helped keep this bird a firm favorite long after we saw it, on the opening day.

4= Lesser Ground-Cuckoo Sometimes it is not the most colorful star that shines the brightest. This bird may be decked out in rusty tones, but its behavior, furtive nature, and some wonderful blue “eye make-up” ensured it gave some of the more colorful species a true run for their money. We waited, impatiently, in the hot tropical sun, while the low muffled calls of the cuckoo drifted to our ears. Michael teased it out skillfully, having had plentiful experience with the species in Mexico especially, and then, suddenly, it blurred into our vision as it slowly, but very deliberately, stalked towards the sound, directly at us. Supremely confident of its own ability to hide by stealthy movements, and cryptic coloration, the bird approached within just a few meters range, confident it was hidden by the scant cover, making for a fantastic tour moment. Not usually a regular on this itinerary too.

4= Black-and-white Owl When you see a large and striking owl sitting in the open, at a day roost, it would be hard to fathom if it did not make the top trip bird list, and so it proved: Popular AND stunning, making this entry a virtual “no brainer”. Thanks to our driver, for remembering where someone had shown him this bird recently, and for NOT telling us we actually might be trespassing (harmlessly), until AFTER we’d seen it! Cunning; but effective.

Itinerary: 16 Feb. - Arrival/night San Jose 17 Feb. - San Jose to Braulio Carrillo NP & La Selva/night La Selva 18 Feb. - La Selva/night La Selva 19 Feb. - La Selva to Savegre/night Savegre 20 Feb. - Savegre area/night Savegre 21 Feb. - Cerro de la Muerte to Carara/night near Carara NP 22 Feb. - Carara NP & Tarcoles River cruise/night near Carara 23 Feb. - Carara NP to Monteverde/night Monteverde area 24 Feb. - Monteverde/night near Monteverde 25 Feb. - Monteverde area to San Jose/night San Jose

Daily Summary:

17 February Hotel Bougainvillea (Central Valley), Braulio Carrillo NP (Pacific Slope Mid-Elevations) & La Selva (Caribbean lowlands) We started our birding, following a get together at dinner the evening before, right on the grounds of our hotel, the magnificent, and famous birder hangout, the Hotel Bougainvillea, which comes adorned with picturesque gardens which are both loaded with colorful blooms, and tropical birds. As breakfast did not open until an hour or so after first light, we took an optional stroll around the extensive gardens of the hotel, which provides not only great, but easy, birding, just a stone’s throw from the guest rooms. While there was nothing “crucial” to be seen in the gardens, it was a fine place to start birding Costa Rica, as dawn is the time it is at its best, with motmots and other birds vocal, and activity at its highest levels. We got to appreciate with our own eyes and ears, when we took in large and bold Rufous-naped Wrens (photo right) foraging with a brazen and carefree nature in 4 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report the garden. Some of the most visible, (and audible), birds in the garden were the Blue-crowned (Diademed) Motmots, three of which posed in the open and swung their strange, long, racketed, tails slowly from side-to- side much in the manner of a pendulum. However, if there was one species Michael and I were hoping for most, it was a rather attractive sparrow, the White-eared Ground-Sparrow. And this did not take long; a venture into its favorite corner of the beautiful gardens, and we soon picked up a pair scampering across the lawn in the open.

After a hearty buffet breakfast on site, (complete with the ever-present dish of Gallo Pinto-a tasty mix of black beans and rice which form the staple of the Costa Rican diet, and are best served with lashings of delicious Lasano sauce), we moved onto to our next destination, Braulio Carrillo National Park, located conveniently only an hour north from our hotel, along the main highway to our next stopover site, La Selva. While this is geographically the most logical place to start the tour, in some ways it is not ideal. The tall, lush, middle elevation primary forest that cloaks this huge park can provide some of the most challenging forest birding of the tour, (long periods of inactivity can make it taxing), and the trail is also the steepest of the entire Introtour. However, the trail is far from seriously challenging, and the site offers a whole swathe of middle elevation Pacific Slope species, which are only possible at this site on this itinerary, making it a vital stop. Thankfully, on this day, the birding was neither too challenging, nor the trail too devoid of birdlife. We should have known we were going to have a special day, when we entered the trail and walked straight on to a Dull-mantled Antbird. This species is normally a slippery customer, which confines itself to the dark recesses of the forest floor, making it typically hard to see. Not so this individual though, which hopped out into the open and then foraged barefacedly on the tops of boulders right beside the trail! Good start. This run continued when a few minutes later Michael latched on to the call of Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush (photo above). This could have led to a prolonged duel with his I-Pod in an attempt to tease it out into the open, but instead the bird immediately jumped up onto an open branch and gave us prolonged close looks as it sung back at us from eye level, causing visible excitement, among the group, all round. We did experience periods of quiet, with relatively little activity by comparison following this, although a burst of action, caused by a passing feeding flock, afterwards soon made us forget this as we picked out some of the more colorful regional endemics like Black-and-yellow Tanager, Blue-and- gold Tanager, White-throated Shrike- Tanager and Black-thighed Grosbeak. Emerald Tanager, Broad-billed Motmot, and Black-faced Grosbeak were among a spectacular supporting cast.

With the sun’s heat soon penetrating the forest by late morning, the activity dropped off considerably, and so it was time to move on. However, this only meant a drive of around five minutes, to a small private property downslope from the park entrance, where banks of purple-blooming Porterweed bushes played host to a myriad of hummingbirds. Chief among our targets was the adorable Snowcap, which quickly eased our nerves as several males fed 5 repeatedly yards away from us, the sun’s rays revealing their bodies to be seductive deep purple, and causing their namesake caps to gleam brilliantly. A larger hummingbird with bright red feet revealed itself to be the Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, and another on site target, while other notable hummers in the area included Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Green Thorntail, and, best-of-all, a stunning male Black-crested Coquette (photo page 5)! We may have only been on site for forty minutes, just before lunch beckoned, but we made sure we packed a lot into a small space, and had already racked up some potential top trip birds by the end of our first morning.

After re-energizing with a sit down meal, we hit the road again, heading further north still, and dropping down into the Pacific lowlands to the world famous La Selva Biological Station, where many important and pioneering studies of tropical forests have been, and continue to be, undertaken. However, before we headed there in earnest our keen driver and “top secret bird guide”, Dennis, took us to see a local Fasciated Tiger- Heron, perched on a large boulder, mid-river, craning its neck high as it scanned the rushing waters below for aquatic prey. Although it was hot, stuffy, and extremely humid on arrival at La Selva, this did not dissuade us from birding the famous clearing around the restaurant, where there is ALWAYS something birdy going on…Before the afternoon was out we had personally discovered that Crested Guans (photo below), prowl the grounds of the station, completely unafraid of people, and allowing very, very close approach (within a few feet, not meters), largely due to a long history of respect for nature within Costa Rica, and free of the threat from hunting that makes some other populations of this large bird so timid in other countries.

The low, fruit-bearing, shrubs in the garden were also productive for frugivorous birds, most notably, tanagers, with gorgeous scarlet-rumped male Passerini’s Tanagers and Golden-hooded Tanagers (photo page 7) especially capturing our attentions. Later in the afternoon, after a short break from the oppressive heat, we slowly walked a forest trail-which was surprisingly easy by way of the fact that a good, flat concrete path runs through it, (which were built to allow scientists to transfer rapidly between research sites by way of bicycle)! This walk allowed those who partook, to pick up the first of three tinamou species that were seen on the tour, (all at La Selva too), thanks to a Slaty-breasted Tinamou that chose to emerge on to the open trail more than once, allowing all present views of a normally shy species. We also began our steep learning curve with flycatchers, a confusing number of which in Costa Rica sport bright lemon-yellow bellies and black and white- patterned heads, as the area around the station itself held Gray-capped, White-ringed, and Social Flycatchers as well as another member of this distinct group, the Great Kiskadee of Rio Grande Valley fame. Thankfully, La Selva is a place that allows close up studies of their subtle differences. Significantly more 6 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report distinctive, was a pair of Long-tailed Tyrants standing sentinel on the edge of the clearing, with their long, elegant tails trailing prominently below them.

A flowering Poro tree caught our eyes for the both the vivid red blossoms, and the significant avian action held within, literally dozens of both Montezuma and Chestnut-headed Oropendolas packed into the tree, taking advantage of the crop, and making the tree constantly shake from their excited movements within.

Mammals began to creep on to the list too with our first Mantled Howler (Monkeys) encountered for the trip at La Selva. In the evening we also enjoyed the spectacle of a pair of Common Pauraques calling and fluttering up from the leaf litter in the excited way that they do when calling, within the forest. We fell to sleep under no illusions that we were staying right on site, in a very special place indeed, and we had only just begun to scratch the surface of the bewildering variety of possibilities held within it.

From the vivid blooming pink Queen aechmea bromeliads (photo below) at the biological station, to the incessantly calling (and even visible) forest frogs experienced on the way to dinner, to the intense beauty of the many iridescent hummingbirds buzzing all around us on the edge of Braulio, to the numerous parrots passing rapidly, and noisily, overhead, we were left in no doubt, we were well and truly in the heart of the tropics, which was very evidently as rich, and exciting to each and every sense as is described. We retired to bed with heads full of the colorful sights, ripe rainforest smells, and ringing with the verdant sounds of the tropics. It was a first day to remember, but was merely the start of another great journey through the very best sites of Costa Rica…

18 February La Selva (Caribbean lowlands) Having slept right at the biological station, birding began right at our doorstep, with a walk of around a kilometer to breakfast through rich rainforest for those who desired it. While things were a little slow to get off the ground initially, some of the people at the head of the group had already bagged their second tinamou of the trip by breakfast, this time a more fleeting Little Tinamou. The almost antwren-like Black-throated Wren also crept onto our bird list before reaching the breakfast buffet. While we had enjoyed a female Great Currassow (photo page 8), clambering clumsily around the trees late the afternoon before, much of the bird was then obscured, and it was far from the satisfactory view we all craved. However, a jet-black male stomping around an open football field soon solved that problem on the way to the restaurant for breakfast! We also saw the first of many Strawberry Poison Dart Frogs at that time too, tracked down from their distinctive, though scarily insects like songs. During, and after, breakfast we were forgiven for being distracted by the movements of the vegetation around the restaurant, where fruiting shrubs attracted some extremely tame Golden-hooded Tanagers, Olive-backed Euphonia, and Black-faced Grosbeaks (photo page 8), among others. Post-breakfast these shrubs proved lively again, and pretty soon we were adding a sharp-dressed male White-collared Manakin (photo page 9), to the bird list as it plucked juicy ripe red berries from the shrubs at eye level in front of us. 7

As we prepared for a longer morning through the lowland jungle that surrounds the biological station, which has famously hosted many scientists and birders over the years, we noticed a watchful raptor surveying the scene from a high perch-a dapper Semiplumbeous Hawk. This same clearing also yielded our first decent looks at arguably one of the world’s most dazzling toucans, with a small gathering of Keel-billed Toucans visible just outside the restaurant; Chestnut- mandibled Toucans were also observed in the same area a handful of times too. Heading across the dramatic swing bridge which crosses over the ???? River, we soon emerged into another lively clearing which allowed us to add yet more species such as White-crowned and Brown-hooded Parrots, another small group of super-confiding Great Currassows, and a striking pair of Pale-billed Woodpeckers reviving memories of more familiar large pied and red woodpeckers from back home in the US (i.e. Pileated). Inside the forest, the hoped-for, though extremely rare, Bare-necked Umbrellabird failed to materialize, although we did walk right into a very confiding pair of Great Tinamous (one of which remained in full, unhindered view for more than 30 minutes), and found our first Slaty-tailed Trogon of the trip, as well as a bunch more bright red, blue-legged, “Blue Jeans” morphs of the Strawberry Poison Dart Frogs.

In the afternoon, and with one notable omission to our bird list, we concentrated on scouring the open lands near our accommodations for one massive target. Strangely, it was the on-site park guard who led us to the bird, after he casually asked us if “…we had seen any macaws?” Our senses were quickly enlivened as he informed us he had just seen a small group come down a short walk from our cabins. We searched the large trees, and even heard their harsh cries as they kept in contact with one another, before finally landing the ‘scope on a pair of Great Green Macaws, a species in trouble in much of its global range, with the notable exception of at places like La Selva, where both the birds and the habitat are well-protected, and thrive in the absence of persecution, which has wiped them out through much of their Central and South American range. Other birds observed in the open country included a Gray Hawk (now split from the southern Gray Hawks, which have subsequently been renamed as a separate species, Gray-lined Hawk), and a tiny Bat Falcon, standing century from an elevated perch. Robert, the raptor “junkee” of the group, was especially happy with this one! Another jaunt back inside the rainforest near our rooms produced a showy Rufous-tailed Jacamar, a kingfisher-like bird that was very pleasing for all to see, along with a pair of Red-throated Ant-Tanagers foraging by the trail. In the late afternoon/evening we found our first Cinnamon Becard feeding back in the clearing by the restaurant, and also managed to track down a Short-tailed Nighthawk hawking over the river at dusk to close the day out.

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19 February La Selva (Caribbean lowlands) to Savegre (Highlands) We had one more morning in La Selva, before we would have to head south, and east into the mountains, (after a short stop for some notable open country birds), where higher elevations, and masses of new species awaited…

For our final morning we had the help of a local guide from La Selva to try and dig out some of the missing species for us, which worked well. We began with a walk from our cabins to the restaurant, passing through the forest and picking up birds en-route. We did especially well on woodpeckers during our final foray at La Selva, plugging three gaps at least, with both Cinnamon and Chestnut-fronted Woodpeckers seen around the edge of the clearing, while a pair of substantial Pale-billed Woodpeckers were seen further out. In between these opening shots we sandwiched in an observation of a White-necked Puffbird between the various woodpecker sightings. Indeed, it turned into a good day for puffbirds, with the final addition to our La Selva list being a lunch-delaying Pied Puffbird near the restaurant, which I am sure made lunch taste all the sweeter! Along with the colorful and exciting tropical residents we pick up on this tour are a smattering of familiar American birds, which spend the winter in Central America. This morning we saw one of the marquee birds of migration in eastern North American, the Golden-winged Warbler, along with a selection of some other more numerous migrant species like Chestnut-sided Warbler, which seems ever-present in Costa Rica at this season. A good selection of toucans was on display again, with the champion of the group Keel-billed Toucan, seen along with Collared Aracari and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan. Two more trogons were seen around La Selva that day, with Gartered and Black-throated Trogons both making their first appearance. Deep in the forest at La Selva, once again, the rare Bare-necked Umbrellabird eluded us, proving what a tricky customer it is away from its breeding grounds at this difficult season for the bird, although our local guide ensured we all saw a scarce nightbird in the form of a cryptic, day-roosting, Vermiculated Screech-Owl.

After dinner at La Selva, where the buffet, once again, proved ample, tasty, and popular, we hit the road again. Unfortunately, our journey would see us having to cross Costa Rica’s bustling capital city, San Jose, where the traffic famously drives drivers crazy and gets birding groups frustrated, chomping at the bit to get to the next birding destination. When the next birding destination happens to be the Savegre Valley, which could very well be renamed, the “Valley of the Quetzal”, and you can imagine how much patience we had for the heavy traffic of San Jose at this 9 time! Still, eventually, we made it through the “blockade” of San Jose relatively unscathed, and were soon enjoying the beauty of the Savegre Valley with its towering Oaks and bromeliad laden cloudforest, soon calming our moods. Dennis, our ever- vigilant driver, knew of a quetzal nest, though at the late hour of our arrival they were clearly shacked up for the night somewhere. There was just enough time on arrival at the fancy Savegre Mountain Lodge, to check off a few of their hummingbirds at the feeders in front of reception: Magnificent Hummingbird, White- throated Mountain-Gem, and Green Violet-ear; after which darkness fell, and we settled in for the night with thoughts of quetzals and a flurry of cloudforest lifers on our minds…However, a few hardy souls who were not being turned off some further avian action by a lack of energy following the long, and arduous drive through San Jose, came out with myself and Michael in search of night birds. While the Bare-shanked Screech-Owl simply refused to cooperate, a pair of Dusky Nightjars (photo page 9), could not have been easier as they hawked insects conspicuously from the roadside wires.

20 February Savegre Valley (Highlands) We awoke with dreams of one of the ultimate world birds still fresh in our minds: RESPLENDENT QUETZAL. This “wonderbird” was to be our focus at Savegre, and if there was ever any doubt about this, the various paintings, photos, and lodge signs dotting the valley, all adorned with enticing images of the bird brought our minds quickly into focus. A pre-breakfast foray to “Dennis’s” stakeout nest site failed on that front, probably, as in hindsight, we were a little early for them to be up and about. However, our time was far from wasted, as we begun racking up lifer-after- lifer: Black-capped Flycatcher sallying from a roadside cable; Black- cheeked Warblers chattering in the bamboo; Yellow-thighed Finches bounding about the roadside scrub; and Sooty and Mountain Thrushes taking over the role of Costa Rica’s national bird, the Clay- colored Robin, outnumbering them significantly at this altitude. However, our pre- breakfast jaunt will be best remembered for the delectable views of a 10 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report particular Flame-throated Warbler (photo above), that chose to forage down near eye-level, proving a crowd- pleaser, especially for those armed with cameras.

After breakfast, where we were entertained by a pair of the local Collared Redstarts (photo page 10), using the lawn chairs as perches, Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrushes hopped around the lodge building, and Long- tailed Silky-Flycatchers (photo page 36), were discovered nesting by the restaurant; we headed back out into the scenic valley, and hatched another plan for the elusive quetzal. Over breakfast word came through that a pair were again back at a nest they have used over the previous three years at least, which of course, Michael was familiar with from his earlier visits and tours to the valley. On the way to the nest site we added yet more montane species to the list, with a showy pair of Black-faced Solitaires that possess one of the most beautiful songs in all of Costa Rica. Reaching the nest site we found a small gathering of expectant people, hoping for another glimpse at the ethereal beauty of a quetzal, although all seemed quiet so Sam went off in search of them, while the rest of the group, and Michael, were rooted to the spot of the last known sighting. Sam was barely out of eyesight, when the quetzals revealed they had been there the whole time, and even seemed to mock Sam by dropping down on to the ground and bathing in the clear mountain stream in front of the group at length! Sam returned soon after, when all enjoyed their first Spangle-cheeked Tanager of the tour, a dapper songbird which is confined to the mountains (i.e. Chiriquí highlands), of Costa Rica and western Panama and therefore sits within a group of nearly 100 “Chiriqui” endemics which are found in either Costa Rica or Panama, or both. Not long later we were graced with incredible, slow, long looks at the pair of Resplendent Quetzals hanging around the entrance to their nest cavity, with complete indifference to our presence, their celebrity status now well-established in the area, and with it their tolerance for the inevitable limelight which comes their way during this high birding season. By the time we had feasted on the quetzals at length the morning had turned bright and sunny, and yet, unlike some Andean cloudforests, which are markedly different in nature from these oak-dominated Central American cloudforests, the bird activity remained high, and we struggled to get back to the lodge in good time for lunch, as we added yet more birds on the walk back to the waiting bus: Ochraceous Wren was uncharacteristically cooperative, spritely Torrent Tyrannulets flitted from boulder to boulder in the middle of the river, seeming to be both having fun and foraging for a living; while a Ruddy Treerunner did its best creeper impression as it hugged the tree trunk as it foraged within a passing flock.

In the afternoon, after another plate-and-stomach filling buffet, we headed up and out of the Savegre Valley. Emerging onto the top of the ridge we visited a nearby lodge, where an action-packed set of hummingbird feeders captivated the group for some time; easy to do when the common visitor is dozens of Fiery-throated Hummingbirds, (photo above), which even flashed their namesake at us during the most memorable parts of the afternoon.

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21 February Savegre Valley & Cerro de la Muerte (Highlands) to Carara (Pacific lowlands) With our list from Savegre looking healthy, we opted to leave post some last minute birding around the grounds of our lodge, and head up to the highest part of the tour, at the intriguingly titled “Hill of Death”. It is known among the guides though as a place that scuppers plans easily, with its unpredictable weather; even at this time of year, during the dry season, Costa Rica’s highest accessible mountain can yield tough birding conditions. The habitat on the top of the hill, around a set of antennas is stunted heather like growth, and is home to a handful of key high-elevation species we were seeking. Many of these can be difficult although, as it turned out, on this day, NONE of them were tricky at all. We walked straight out of the vehicle and into a Volcano Junco (photo below), feeding out in the open on the top of a blooming Pernettya shrub. The weather was beautiful up there, in spite of Michael’s warnings of wind and rain; we were quickly shedding layers and picking up the key species at pace. After we admired the junco at close range for some time, we observed a number of Volcano Hummingbirds feeding in the blooming shrubs up there, before a bird popped up which shocked us all: the rare Peg-billed Finch. Lastly, the high elevation offered us a stunted wren to go with the stunted shrubbery that it inhabits, and again, in spite of low expectations, it was remarkably easy to get many looks at a singing pair of Timberline Wrens (photo above). With the true high elevation species “in the bag”, we decided to head downslope and stop in at a famous birding rest stop: Restaurante La Georgina. Despite a great set of hummer feeders visible from the restaurant, our attentions were focused on their mountain garden, as we had already enjoyed great views of the same hummingbird species elsewhere (Fiery- throated, Magnificent, and Volcano Hummingbirds). Their garden is flanked by beautiful, oak-dominated, Central American cloudforest, and is known as a regular spot for Large-footed Finch, which had eluded us thus far. However, the finch hunt quickly turned into a “snipe hunt”, and so we decided instead to enter into the bamboo-dominated understory of the cloud forest, and try our hand again at finding the skulking Wrenthrush (Zeledonia). As luck would have it, this odd bird was not even in the difficult-to-penetrate, bamboo layer, as typically expected, but was in much shorter, grass and fern based cover, making it much easier to observe, which we all did repeatedly over a twenty-minute spell. Actually, while we were trying to get our first glimpses of the Zeledonia, a Large- footed Finch inconveniently popped up when we were not at all ready for it, and so eluded most of us. However, once the Zeledonia was seen well, and we were re-focused on the finch again, we managed to get it to emerge from its deep cover hiding spot with a little use of a pygmy-owl call.

One good roadside restaurant deserved another, and we moved on to another one with a duel purpose: 12 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report lunch and birds. This time we stopped in at Mirador de Valle El Generale, which not only came with some great food but some excellent additions to our list. Here, we caught our first sight of the magnificent Violet Sabrewing, always a popular hummer on this tour, with its bulk size making it a particularly striking bird in combination with its vibrant violet tones, and bright white flashes in the tail. The hoped- for Speckled Tanager though disappointed, never appearing at its supposedly regular feeder. However, the feeders did bring in our first Cherries Tanagers of the tour, while some fruit-bearing trees behind drew in a pair of Golden- browed Chlorophonias, a highland specialty of gobmacking beauty, which, unfortunately, stole away before only a handful of us laid eyes on them. Similarly, a male Red-headed Barbet did likewise. All too soon though, in spite of some great birding from the comfort of their balcony, we had to move on, as the humid Pacific lowlands beckoned, and another “marquee” species: Scarlet Macaw. Although not widespread in Costa Rica as a whole, it is remarkably numerous in the area around Carara National Park, as this areas offers extensive protected habitat, free from hunting and persecution. And so it was proved as our driver, Dennis, pulled the bus over and motioned to a large dead tree, where a pair of humungous Scarlet Macaws was playfully fighting with each other. A great bird to get just before we checked into the Hotel Villa Lapas (Lapas actually means “Macaw”), set within a beautiful sprawling tropical garden, and thus a long-time favorite sleep over site for birders visiting the nearby Carara National Park, (which would come for us over the coming days). Being late afternoon, and with it particularly hot and sticky, we retired to our rooms and the instant relief and comfort of the air-con. All, except Scott that is who was alert to a pair of Fiery-billed Aracaris in the hotel garden, while the rest of us were lazing around in our rooms! The roll call of the day’s bird sightings was a little more dramatic that night, as we had to abandon this when a pair of Spectacled Owls began calling right beside the hotel restaurant. After scampering back to our rooms quickly for flashlights and binoculars, we soon located them, sitting on a large limb of a rainforest tree, glaring impressively back at us. All owls possess a menacing, intimidating stare, but this one’s is particularly believable; it was pissed!

22 February Hotel Villa Lapas, Carara NP & Tarcoles River (Pacific lowlands) The day took the form of three stages on this day: Hotel Villa Lapas grounds were birded at dawn, pre the breakfast bar opening; after breakfast the rest of the morning was spent walking an easy forest trail within the jungle of Carara National Park; and then in the afternoon we took a leisurely boat ride along the Tarcoles River for some easy, lazy afternoon birding to close the day out. I (Sam), learned quickly that slackers can miss out, when an argument with my alarm clock, (i.e. I slept in!), delayed me by five minutes, by which time Michael and the group had seen a Costa Rican Swift pass over the hotel, and nailed a Rose-throated Becard in the garden outside our room! You snooze, you loose, I guess. However, I did not miss out on another Fasciated Tiger-Heron on the river that runs through the hotel gardens, which shared the stretch of river with a wild Muscovy Duck.

13 After breakfast we hit the trail, and Carara National Park, arguably Costa Rica’s flagship park within the region of the Pacific lowlands, popular too, as we bumped into several other birding groups along the trail. As with most forest birding sites in the tropics, this walk involved some periods of relative inactivity, which were punctuated by spells of high activity and manic birding moments. We had two particularly colorful avian targets that morning: Baird’s Trogon and Orange-collared Manakin, although the trail offered a lot more besides, as this was to be the only leg in this region (Pacific lowlands) on this short tour. Thus many of the birds were new, except for the regular Scarlet Macaws passing overhead, which were no less impressive or under- appreciated, comprising a life bird for many less than twenty-four hours earlier. It turned out to be a good day for trogons, with both Black-throated and our target Baird’s Trogon seen along the trail, and even if the latter was “only” a female, it did cause another birding group to accost our ‘scope for a period as they desperately looked to add it to their life lists too. Wrens are well represented the south of the North America bioregion, and Costa Rica is no exception to this general rule, and Carara represents one of the better sites on the tour for this group, with 4 new species added over our two days in the area, with the handsome Black-bellied and added during our morning walk. However, perhaps one of the best highlights of the morning was tracking down a small antswarm, which, while only small by some standards, was well worth it for the repeated and good views afforded of Chestnut-backed and Dusky Antbirds in particular. Another feature of walking this trail was the impossible-to-miss Ctenosaurs, (photo page 13), a large and striking iguana species with a distinctive crest of spines atop its head, and a bold nature, often only scampering off the trail at the last minute; one was even watched munching fallen flowers in the middle of the trail while photographers, like me, lapped up the opportunity. We also picked up another regional specialty, several Black-hooded Antshrikes, which were typically easy to track down on this trail. The final highlight of the morning came late on, when, finally (to both guides relief), some of the local Orange-collared Manakins (photo above), began lekking, finally revealing their locations at this time when they become bolder than when foraging and perching out on open branches, drawing attention to themselves with both their easy-to-hear fire-cracking sounds, and their vibrant, flame-orange colored underparts which simply glowed from the dark recesses of the understory. A fitting way to end a sweaty morning hike, after which we retired back to our hotel, to feast on the buffet, take a short break, and emerge for a casual session of birding in the afternoon, mainly from the comfort of a boat… 14 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

However, before we reached the dock, our devilish driver, Dennis, once again teased the guides with tales of a local roosting Black-and-white Owl (photo right), which he had driven another guide to recently, and he seemed remarkably confident it would still be around. We hardly needed asking if we were interested in that; it was barely even a diversion on the way to the boat dock! We pursued Dennis into an area of much drier habitat than we had been in during the morning, dry, open woodland. In among many of the trees with little or no leafy growth, stood a large evergreen, with a mass of foliage covering its entire branches; of course, this is where the owl was meant to be. Dennis’s quick glances in the direction he had seen it previously turned up nothing, but this was a very large tree, and there were a myriad of owl hiding places within, even for such a large and striking owl as a Black-and- white. While Michael and I were a little panicked by his initial lack of success, we were quickly calmed to see that Dennis was not. As far as he was concerned, it was nothing a cellphone call cold not fix, and, after a brief call with some rapid relay of directions in Spanish between an unknown friend, he declared it was there; it had simply, and inconveniently it seemed, moved to the other side of the same tree, where, actually, once in a certain position revealed it to be sleeping completely in the open with not a branch to blemish the view! Perhaps egged on by the seeming lack of an owl reward there was visible bump in the group’s mood, clearly stoked at seeing such a large and impressive owl in full daylight, and who can blame them, we were ALL stoked.

The final chapter of the day was the most relaxing of all and a whole lot of fun: a lazy boat ride (indeed, we barely moved at all at times), along the Tarcoles River, taking in the muddy flats and mangroves for a varied mix of birds and other wildlife. We had barely got the boat a few feet from the dock when we were staring down the barrel of the stare of a Bare-throated Tiger- Heron (photo page 14), patrolling the far shore. We drifted a little further on picking up our first Common Black-Hawks of the cruise surveying from a high vantage point, while a little lower down a flash of blue revealed the presence of a gorgeous Turquoise- browed Motmot, (photo left), arguably the finest looking of all the dozen or so motmots on the planet. A Boat-billed Heron, roosting completely in the open, was more unexpected though (photo page 21). Then we turned our attentions to the muddy banks and rocky shores, on the lookout for a few special shorebirds that we hoped to find there. Not long later a pair of the first target species, Southern Lapwing, were found loafing on the shorelines, a recent colonizer to Costa Rica from further south, which has been spreading north in recent years at a rapid pace. Just after the lapwings came the next shorebird we were pursuing, the Double-striped Thick-Knee, which we had expected to be crouched down and sleeping at this time (being largely nocturnal, 15 like most thick-knees), but instead were greeted by a pair standing out in full view. On the flats we found White Ibises and Roseate Spoonbills feeding alongside herons, egrets, migrant shorebirds, and the odd American Crocodile, before we drifted into the mangroves. There we managed to eke out Mangrove Warblers, including some ruddy-capped males, more Bare-throated Tiger-Herons, and, best of all, a Panama Flycatcher that may seem lost from its name, though was expected in this area, where they are a mangrove species, (which, strangely, in some parts of Panama they are not). Virtually the last birds of the day emerged at dusk, when a large flock of hawking Lesser Nighthawks hunted close to the dock just before darkness fell.

23 February Carara NP (Pacific lowlands) to Monteverde (Highlands) While this may be a short tour, Costa Rica is such a small and accessible country that you can move from one region to another relatively quickly, and so even on this tour we got to see the extreme contrasts and varied landscapes, climates and birds packed into Costa Rica, by virtue of its interesting geography and the visible effect of the local trade winds. We saw this first hand on this day, when we started back in Carara National Park (although this time on another, easy, trail), within the heat and humidity of the Pacific lowland, and then traveled north towards the highlands and cloud forests of Monteverde, taking in an area of dry woodland and scrub within the coastal Pacific lowlands in between. What this meant was a varied day from morning to evening in terms of birds, climate (from hot and humid at Carara, to dry and very high temperatures on the journey to Monteverde, while on arrival in Monteverde we donning jumpers and jackets to deal with the chill and dampness of the highland forests); and birding landscapes. In the morning we were once again surrounded by the stereotypical jungle scenes of the Hollywood and nature documentaries, in the middle of the day we were sweating it out as we baked under direct sunlight, with dry brush underfoot in the drier open coastal country, and then by the evening we were once again, surrounded by dense vegetation, although this time the bromeliad-rich, damp and moist cloud forests once more, of a much wetter nature than those experienced previously at Savegre, due to the local affect of the trade winds, which whip over the top of the mountains and reach Monteverde, making it considerably wetter than Savegre in nature.

Before we left for the Carara, we had a slight diversion and reshuffle of plans to make; our local contact had tipped us off about a nesting Tiny Hawk not far from our hotel, and so we took a pre-breakfast drive to take a look at it, which we did successfully, and also picked up a very co-operative Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (photo above), in the same area, thanks to Robert, who picked this up from our moving bus! The morning walk in Carara will be best remembered for the antswarm we encountered early on, and which occupied us for some time, as Bicolored Antbirds threw of their typically normal skulking shackles for a much more tame nature, as they lost their inhibitions around the harvest of insects provided by a group of army ants on the move. They were accompanied too by Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, which was new to us, 16 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

Northern Barred Woodcreeper (which also featured at the smaller swarm the day before), Gray-headed Tanagers, (which also often follow ants like the other species mentioned here), and a migrant Kentucky Warbler. Other notable birds that morning included another trip exclusive wren, Riverside Wren, a regional endemic, which is handsomely banded below; and “Panamanian” Black-faced Antthrush (a surefire future split by virtue of its remarkably different call from other, more southern populations. We closed the morning with yet more Scarlet Macaws, and another manakin, this time a vermilion-hooded male Red-capped Manakin.

After another scrumptious buffet back at our short base camp on the edge of Carara, we hit the road again, and headed into dry country at potentially the hottest, and most birdless, time of day, although there was really no way round this aspect of it. However, I should mention that, as we loaded up the bus in the afternoon we finally, ALL, got a look at a pair of Fiery-billed Aracaris, which landed in a tree by the parking lot, to much relief all round, as these were the only ones of the trip, (bar Scott’s lone sighting). However, we quickly picked up a great set of new birds pretty much only possible at this short stop of the tour: a pool was sprinkled with migrant waders/shorebirds, including some peeps (Western, Semi-P, Least), Lesser Yellowlegs, and Stilt Sandpiper. In the scrub alongside a Stripe-headed Sparrow put on a show, while perched Orange-chinned Parakeets and Cinnamon Hummingbird, Steely- vented Hummingbird, Hoffman’s Woodpecker (here considered “pure” birds unlike the Red-crowned x Hoffman’s Woodpecker hybrids seen in the Carara region); and White-lored Gnatcatchers were quickly racked up in the woods close by. Then, we heard the call we had really hoped to hear: Lesser Ground-Cuckoo (photo by Linda Rudolph, right), and we were soon in hot pursuit, which really only meant a walk of around 20 meters off into some brush. Michael was experienced with this quarry in particular from his many tours in Mexico, and slowly, gently, but very deliberately, teased the bird closer, and closer. The group was tense, we had heard the low hoots getting nearer and nearer, and now that it was really close it had fallen silent, but we could hear it creeping around in the tinder dry brush, betraying its hidden presence at tantalizingly close quarters. We dared not move, and Michael once again hit play, but this time at very low volume, and we all remained perfectly still, (and tense), as per his instructions, which had exactly the desired affect; it crept in and walked out into an area of open brush not further than 25 feet from us, giving us great views of this rusty cuckoo with the “blue eye make-up” which is so eye-catching when seen like this. It was instantly a trip hit, and I thought, (rather telepathically it turned out), it might just be popular in the top five birds of the trip vote at the end of the tour. Other hits in this area were White-throated Magpie-Jay, a striking species if ever there was one, in a group which is already overloaded in this regard, Nutting’s Flycatcher, and Streak-backed Oriole, all of which were only seen on this short stop. In the late afternoon we arrived at our next lodge, a short drive from Monteverde reserve, and were greeted with a new mammal, White-nosed Coati a raiding group fleeing us on arrival, and a male Canivet’s Emerald working the Porterweed in the garden. This was a new lodge for us this year due to space issues at other lodges, but we were impressed already.

17 24 February Monteverde area (Highlands) Much like our first day in the highlands at Savegre earlier on the tour, this also turned out to be one of the most popular and birdy days of the tour. It all started with a surprise pair of White-eared Ground-Sparrows in the lodge grounds in the morning, pre-breakfast, a catch up bird for some who had not been around for the pair in the Hotel Bougainvillea garden on day one; and continued straight after breakfast with a male Orange-bellied Trogon, which caused us to bring the us to a screeching halt when it was found from the vehicle window. And this was before we had actually arrived at our main destination of the day, arguably Costa Rica’s most famous park of all: Monteverde. Our arrival in the Monteverde parking lot however, was no less dramatic as we were to find the regional endemic Buff-fronted Quail- Dove (photo right), blocking our parking space. We did not mind though and we were only too happy to wait while it foraged unconcernedly as we snapped photos a short distance parking space was well worth it! After taking our first brief looks at a new set of hummer feeders near the park entrance, we headed out on a easy wide open trail into Monteverde’s famous mist-drenched cloud forests. The towering trees, laden with tens, if not hundreds of bromeliads were a highlight alone of this scenic walk, and quickly illustrated why this has become one of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations. The walk was initially “under-birdy”, with little happening at all, until mid-morning, when one of the group took a break on a bench, and a Black Guan (photo page 18), walked right up to her, (one of the key highland birds we were looking for). Luckily it was still there when we connected again together a short while later, although to our horror, before we had yet got a long look at it a tourist approached it on foot, and failed to hear our maniacal cries to stop, for we feared he would scare the bird away. Our frantic panicked shouts though appeared a little naïve, when moments later the same tourist walked to within inches f the guan, pulled out his cellphone and began filming it, at which point we ALL walked straight up to it! A similarly humbling experience occurred when we tried to lure out a Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush that appeared typically furtive of the species, and avoided some people’s attentions as it hopped around in the dense, dark foliage. However, as we ignored it again, we turned back to find it feeding openly on the path, mocking our earlier strained efforts! There’s a lot to be said for setting up protected areas where birds experience a long history of no persecution from humans, and here in Costa Rica you can see the dramatic affects for yourselves: guans (Black and Crested on this tour), currasows, and thrushes venturing unconcernedly in the open and even being blatantly, and undeniably, tame at times. If only we had more progressive governments in the world to follow Costa Rica’s shining example of what can be done for both a country’s tourism and economy, and the animal life of a country with such forward thinking. But back to the birds, we also enjoyed the tamest Slate-throated Redstart I had ever seen, another Orange-bellied Trogon, Golden-crowned Warbler as further trip additions before lunch was upon us and we could reflect on a great morning’s birding in Costa Rica’s cloud forest “Mecca”.

18 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

After lunch our attentions returned to hummingbirds, and we checked out two sets of feeders to get the full range of species present. An hour watching these extraordinary scenes barely felt like enough, as we were surrounded by powerful, purple-coated, Violet Sabrewings, (photo right), which brought gasps of delight on a regular basis from the regular stream of visiting tourists. The feeders also held one of the few Costa Rican endemics, Coppery-headed Emerald (one of only four country endemics), which came in regularly along with Magenta-throated Woodstar, Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, Green Violet-ear, and the occasional Green Hermit. However, the hummers arguably were not the biggest impact “item” at the feeders, as a Harris’s Olingo (a slinky, lemur-like mammal, photo below), dropped into to rather destructively drink the sugar water, its hefty weight and substantial size clearly not provided for by these hummingbird- focused feeders. Remarkably, this, and several other Olingos have been visiting these feeders, on-and-off, for many, many years, although their visits can be erratic and unpredictable, and so this was still a new mammal for many, guides included, as it is tough to find away from this very set of feeders. As we prepared to leave the park, after a barnstorming morning and early afternoon, we heard the soft whistles of Golden-browed Chlorophonia overhead, and were lucky to find these small, bright green birds, hiding within the large, dense, bright green foliage, for prolonged scope views, just before we left.

After a short break we birded somewhere very different, some drier forest nearer our hotel, where we particularly had one special avian target in mind, the spectacular Long-tailed Manakin, (photo page 20), which prefers this drier habitat than the wetter forests within the park borders. It was initially though a rather frustrating walk, with plenty of walking, but not so many birds on a blustery afternoon. Finally, though Michael tracked down a manakin, and after quite some effort (not typical for this species) we had super looks of a cerulean-backed, red-capped, and, of course, long- tailed, male Long-tailed Manakin. This was a turning point of the afternoon, and we arrived back shortly after at our starting point, where another Orange-bellied Trogon greeted us, and Michael stumbled into a covey of four Black-breasted Wood-Quails, an often furtive, and difficult to track down species on this tour. They were quickly lured back into

19 playback when all could get great looks at these gamebirds. Sadly, their high-speed sprints on the open trail were a little too Carl Lewis to get photos of!

25 February Monteverde region (Highlands) For our final day of the tour we had some flexibility and various plans at our disposal. As we had done so well within the park the day before, we chose to check out another spot close by, after a local tip off about some roosting screech- owls in particular. Sadly, the “reliable” owls chose this day to be, well, unreliable, but it was worth it for discovering another scenic cloud forest spot with plenty of good birds besides: pick of the bunch was arguably the pair of Golden- bellied Flycatchers, which are not an easy find on this tour, though I think most people in the group would think about the stand out performance from a small group of Golden- browed Chlorophonias, that fed lower than is typical for us to gorge on to the full. I think it was due to this choice viewing this species ended up in the top five birds of the trip list. Other than those birds we saw yet more White-eared Ground-Sparrows, our only Highland Hepatic Tanagers of the tour, and our only Geoffroy’s Spider-Monkeys too. All too soon our birding time had come to a close, and most of the final afternoon was spent making our way down out of the highlands back into the Central Valley, and the Hotel Bougainvillea, with this bus time well-used by the group to sort through their trip lists and remind themselves of the contenders for the top five birds of the trip, and of course too, to make those difficult choices for this.

It had been another superb Costa Rica tour, showcasing the very best of this amazing country. We had seen firsthand the wonderful parks system that is groundbreaking compared to much of Latin America, and experienced the incredible birds and wildlife that comes with this. I am sure this country inspires many first timers to the tropics to return again, soon, and many to return again to Costa Rica also, as even after this tour, there is plenty more to see in this country too, and the wider region, with Panama just next door after all. One reason alone that many people choose to visit Costa Rica is “their” quetzal, actually also shared with Mexico (where difficult), and Panama and Guatemala (where, like Costa Rica, it is regularly gettable); and none of those that did would have been disappointed, our views were fantastic, and prolonged at a nest hole, and involved both male and female sitting outside the nesting cavity. By virtue of a large rock in the area, and their tolerance for tourists with a quetzal fetish, we were also afforded eye-level views and wonderful photography conditions at the site, meaning this was simply never going to be beaten for the prize of top trip bird from then on. One of the world’s must-see birds, being seen like this, simply cannot be beaten. However, this is not a one horse race, or one bird tour, it was packed with other memorable moments: the low feeding Golden-browed Chlorophonias on our last day’s birding being especially notable; along with the fiery male Orange-collared Manakins in Carara, the super daylight views of a Black-and-white Owl which briefly awoke from its slumber to stare back down at us; the deepest of purple birds, the Snowcap is the other marquee bird of the tour that often wrestles with the quetzal for top billing, and was also too seen repeatedly well, making it predictably popular also. Perhaps less predicable on this tour was the fantastic view of a Lesser Ground-Cuckoo, an unexpected bonus bird in a brief diversion from the normal itinerary on the journey to Monteverde. However, these were just the short list of the top five birds. Being just a short list some absolute crackers missed the list and should be mentioned here to illustrate how a short tour like this really does pack a lot of punch as they say: White-eared Ground-Sparrow, Great Currasow, Violet Sabrewing, Long-tailed Manakin, American Pygmy-Kingfisher, Slate-throated Redstart, Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher, Flame-throated Warbler, Golden-hooded Tanager, Riverside Wren, and Scarlet Macaw were all voted for, but did not make the grade for the short list (in terms of numbers of votes). In just ten days we had covered the Central Valley, the Pacific lowlands, and the Caribbean mid-elevations and lowlands, in addition to the endemic-rich, and quetzal-bearing highlands, leading to a respectable trip list of some 410 species recorded (including some that were only heard on this list), a Tropical Birding record for the tour. And we did not need to kill ourselves to do this. Although long days were spent in the field, rarely were there any difficult hikes, and there was always an easier option 20 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report out there for those who wanted further downtime; we stay at great places which are a pleasure to hang out if the rest of the group go birding elsewhere. Indeed, on this tour, as if to illustrate this one participant kicked back at the lodge and was gifted an encounter with a wintering male Painted Bunting to boast of! Animals too were in evidence from spider monkeys to howlers, to bright strawberry-red poison dart frogs and electric blue morpho butterflies, there is literally always something to look at in Costa Rica’s rich countryside. As if to prove the extreme popularity of the country both guides followed this tour further afield in Costa Rica, as there are simply too many sites to cover in just eight days of birding, although this did represent the perfect introduction to the avian, animal, and botanical riches of this superb Latin American nation.

BIRD LIST

The taxonomy of the list follows: Clements, James F., White, Anthony W., and Fitzpatrick, John W. The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World. Cornell, 2007. This list is up to date with the major changes published by Cornell up until September 2012.

Regional endemics are marked E. Birds that were only heard are marked with an H. Birds that were only recorded by one of the guides are marked GO.

The SITES each species were recorded at are denoted on the right hand side, with the sites abbreviated as follows: BC - BRAULIO CARRILLO NP LS - LA SELVA SAV - SAVEGRE area CAR - CARARA area TR - TARCOLES RIVER MONT - MONTEVERDE area ER - EN-ROUTE (i.e. recorded on a journey between major sites)

21

BIRDS: SITES:

TINAMOUS TINAMIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Great Tinamou Tinamus major X

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui X

Slaty-breasted Tinamou Crypturellus boucardi X

DUCKS, GEESE, AND WATERFOWL ANATIDAE

Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata X

Blue-winged Teal Anas discors X

GUANS, CHACHALACAS & CURASSOWS CRACIDAE

Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens X X

E Black Guan Chamaepetes unicolor X

Great Curassow Crax rubra X

NEW WORLD QUAIL ODONTOPHORIDAE

E Black-breasted Wood-Quail Odontophorus leucolaemus X

STORKS CICONIIDAE

Wood Stork Mycteria americana X

FRIGATEBIRDS FREGATIDAE

Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens X X

CORMORANTS & SHAGS PHALACROCORACIDAE

Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus X

ANHINGAS ANHINGIDAE

Anhinga Anhinga anhinga X

PELICANS PELICANIDAE

Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis X

HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS ARDEIDAE

Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum X X

Bare-throated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum X

Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias X X

Great Egret Ardea alba X X X

Snowy Egret Egretta thula X

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea X

Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor X

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis X X X

Green Heron Butorides virescens X

22 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

BIRDS: SITES:

HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS cont. ARDEIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax X

Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea X

Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius X

IBISES AND SPOONBILLS THRESKIORNITHIDAE

White Ibis Eudocimus albus X

Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja X

NEW WORLD VULTURES CATHARTTIDAE

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus X X X X

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura X X X X X

King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa X X X

OSPREYS PANDIONIDAE

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES ACCIPITRIDAE

Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus X X X

White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus X

Tiny Hawk Accipiter superciliosus X

Sharp-shinned Hawk Accipiter striatus X

Semiplumbeous Hawk Leucopternis semiplumbeus X

Common Black-Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus X

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris X

Gray Hawk Buteo plagiatus X X

Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis X X

RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS RALLIDAE

H White-throated Crake Laterallus albigularis X

Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus X

THICK-KNEES BURHINIDAE

Double-striped Thick-knee Burhinus bistriatus X

PLOVERS & LAPWINGS CHARADRIIDAE

Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis X X

Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus X X

Killdeer Charadrius vociferus X

23

BIRDS: SITES:

STILTS & AVOCETS RECURVIROSTRIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus X X

JACANAS JACANIDAE

Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa X

SANDPIPERS & ALLIES SCOLOPACIDAE

Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius X X

Willet Tringa semipalmata X X

Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes X

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus X X

Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla X

Western Sandpiper Calidris mauri X

Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla X

Stilt Sandpiper Calidris himantopus X

GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS LARIDAE

Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla X

Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus X

PIGEONS & DOVES COLUMBIDAE

Rock Pigeon Columba livia X

Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris X X

Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata X X

Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea X

Short-billed Pigeon Patagioenas nigrirostris X X

White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica X

Inca Dove Columbina inca X

Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura X

Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina X

Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti X X

White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi X X

Gray-chested Dove Leptotila cassini X X

E Buff-fronted Quail-Dove Geotrygon costaricensis X

CUCKOOS CUCULIDAE

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana X X X

Lesser Ground-Cuckoo Morococcyx erythropygus X

24 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

BIRDS: SITES:

CUCKOOS cont. CUCULIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani X

Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris X X X

OWLS STRIGIDAE

Vermiculated Screech-Owl Megascops guatemalae X

HE Bare-shanked Screech-Owl Megascops clarkii X

Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata X X

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum X

Black-and-white Owl Ciccaba nigrolineata X

NIGHTJARS AND ALLIES CAPRIMULGIDAE

Short-tailed Nighthawk Lurocalis semitorquatus X

Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis X

Common Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis X

E Dusky Nightjar Antrostomus saturatus X

POTOOS NYCTIBIIDAE

H Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis X

SWIFTS APODIDAE

White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris X X

Vaux's Swift Chaetura vauxi X

E Costa Rican Swift Chaetura fumosa X

Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris X

HUMMINGBIRDS TROCHILIDAE

White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora X X X

Bronzy Hermit Glaucis aeneus X X

Green Hermit Phaethornis guy X

Long-billed Hermit Phaethornis longirostris X X

Stripe-throated Hermit Phaethornis striigularis X X

Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus X X

Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti X

Green Thorntail Discosura conversii X

Black-crested Coquette Lophornis helenae X

Green-crowned Brilliant Heliodoxa jacula X X

Magnificent Hummingbird Eugenes fulgens X

25

BIRDS: SITES:

HUMMINGBIRDS cont. TROCHILIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

E Fiery-throated Hummingbird Panterpe insignis X

E Purple-throated Mountain-gem Lampornis calolaemus X

E White-throated Mountain-gem Lampornis castaneoventris X

E Magenta-throated Woodstar Calliphlox bryantae X

Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris X

E Volcano Hummingbird Selasphorus flammula X

E Scintillant Hummingbird Selasphorus scintilla X

Canivet's Emerald Chlorostilbon canivetii X

Violet-headed Hummingbird Klais guimeti X

Violet Sabrewing Campylopterus hemileucurus X X

Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer Chalybura urochrysia X

Violet-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania colombica X

Stripe-tailed Hummingbird Eupherusa eximia X X

E Coppery-headed Emerald Amazilia edward X

E Snowcap Microchera albocoronata X

Blue-chested Hummingbird Amazilia amabilis X

Steely-vented Hummingbird Amazilia saucerrottei X

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl X X X X

Cinnamon Hummingbird Amazilia rutila X

TROGONS TROGONIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Resplendent Quetzal Pharomachrus mocinno X

Black-headed Trogon Trogon melanocephalus X

Slaty-tailed Trogon Trogon massena X X

E Baird's Trogon Trogon bairdii X

Gartered Trogon Trogon caligatus X X X

Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus X

E Orange-bellied Trogon Trogon aurantiiventris X

Collared Trogon Trogon collaris X X

MOTMOTS MOMOTIDAE

Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus coeruliceps X X X

Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii X

Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum X X

26 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

BIRDS: SITES:

MOTMOTS cont. MOTMOTIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Turquoise-browed Motmot Eumomota superciliosa X

KINGFISHERS ALCEDINIDAE

Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata X

Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona X

Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana X

American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea X

PUFFBIRDS BUCCONIDAE

White-necked Puffbird Notharchus hyperrhynchus X

Pied Puffbird Notharchus tectus X

JACAMARS GALBULIDAE

Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda X X

NEW WORLD BARBETS CAPITONIDAE

Red-headed Barbet Eubucco bourcierii X

TOUCAN BARBETS SEMNORNITHIDAE

E Prong-billed Barbet Semnornis frantzii X

TOUCANS RAMPHASTIDAE

Emerald Toucanet Aulacorhynchus prasinus X

Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus X

E Fiery-billed Aracari Pteroglossus frantzii X

Black-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos ambiguus X X

Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus

WOODPECKERS PICIDAE

Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus X

Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani X

Red-crowned x Hoffman's Woodpecker Melanerpes sp. X

E Hoffmann's Woodpecker Melanerpes hoffmannii X

Smoky-brown Woodpecker Picoides fumigatus X

Hairy Woodpecker Picoides villosus X

HE Rufous-winged Woodpecker Piculus simplex X

Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus X X

Cinnamon Woodpecker Celeus loricatus X

Chestnut-colored Woodpecker Celeus castaneus X

27

BIRDS: SITES:

WOODPECKERS cont. PICIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus X

Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis X X

FALCONS & CARACARAS FALCONIDAE

H Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus X

Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway X X X X

Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima X

Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans X

Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis X

PARROTS PSITTACIDAE

E Sulphur-winged Parakeet Pyrrhura hoffmanni X

E Crimson-fronted Parakeet Aratinga finschi X X

Olive-throated Parakeet Aratinga nana X

Orange-fronted Parakeet Aratinga canicularis X X

Great Green Macaw Ara ambiguus X

Scarlet Macaw Ara macao X

Orange-chinned Parakeet Brotogeris jugularis X X

Brown-hooded Parrot Pyrilia haematotis X

White-crowned Parrot Pionus senilis X

White-fronted Parrot Amazona albifrons X

Red-lored Parrot Amazona autumnalis X

Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa X

Yellow-naped Parrot Amazona auropalliata X X

TYPICAL ANTBIRDS THAMNOPHILIDAE

Fasciated Antshrike Cymbilaimus lineatus X X

Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus X

Western Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha X

E Black-hooded Antshrike Thamnophilus bridgesi X

Russet Antshrike Thamnistes anabatinus X

Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis X X

Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor X X

Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis X X

Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina X

28 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

BIRDS: SITES:

TYPICAL ANTBIRDS cont. THAMNOPHILIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Chestnut-backed Antbird Myrmeciza exsul X X

Dull-mantled Antbird Myrmeciza laemosticta X

Bicolored Antbird Gymnopithys leucaspis X

GNATEATERS CONOPOPHAGIDAE

HE Black-crowned Antpitta Pittasoma michleri X

ANTPITTAS GRALLARIIDAE

H Streak-chested Antpitta Hylopezus perspicillatus X X

TAPACULOS RHINOCRYPTIDAE

HE Silvery-fronted Tapaculo Scytalopus argentifrons X X

ANTTHRUSHES FORMICARIIDAE

Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis X

OVENBIRDS & WOODCREEPERS FURNARIIDAE

H Scaly-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus guatemalensis X

Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus X

Tawny-winged Woodcreeper Dendrocincla anabatina X

Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae X X

Cocoa Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus susurrans X X

Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius X X

Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii X X

Spot-crowned Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes affinis X

Plain Xenops Xenops minutus X

Buffy Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes lawrencii X

Lineated Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla subalaris X

HE Streak-breasted Treehunter Thripadectes rufobrunneus X

Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens X

E Ruddy Treerunner Margarornis rubiginosus X

Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops X

TYRANT FLYCATCHERS TYRANNIDAE

Mountain Elaenia Elaenia frantzii X X

Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea X

Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus X

Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus X X

29

BIRDS: SITES:

TYRANT FLYCATCHERS Cont. TYRANNIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Paltry Tyrannulet Zimmerius vilissimus X X X

H Northern Bentbill Oncostoma cinereigulare X

Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus sylvia X

Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum X

Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens X

H Tufted Flycatcher Mitrephanes phaeocercus X

GO Yellow-bellied Flycatcher Empidonax flaviventris X

Yellowish Flycatcher Empidonax flavescens X X

Black-capped Flycatcher Empidonax atriceps X

Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus X

Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus X X

Rufous Mourner Rhytipterna holerythra X

Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer X X

Panama Flycatcher Myiarchus panamensis X

Nutting's Flycatcher Myiarchus nuttingi X

H Great Crested Flycatcher Myiarchus crinitus X X

Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus X X X X

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua X X X

Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis X

Gray-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis X

White-ringed Flycatcher Conopias albovittatus X

E Golden-bellied Flycatcher Myiodynastes hemichrysus X

Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus X

Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher Myiodynastes luteiventris

Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius X X

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus X X X X X X X

Scissor-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus forficatus X

COTINGAS COTINGIDAE

Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata X

Rufous Piha Lipaugus unirufus X

HE Three-wattled Bellbird Procnias tricarunculatus X

30 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

BIRDS: SITES:

MANAKINS PIPRIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

White-collared Manakin Manacus candei X

E Orange-collared Manakin Manacus aurantiacus X

Long-tailed Manakin Chiroxiphia linearis X

Red-capped Manakin Pipra mentalis X

TITYRAS & ALLIES TITYRIDAE

Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata X X X

Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus X

Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae X

VIREOS VIREONIDAE

Mangrove Vireo Vireo pallens X

Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons X

E Yellow-winged Vireo Vireo carmioli X

Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys X

Philadelphia Vireo Vireo philadelphicus X X X

Scrub Greenlet Hylophilus flavipes X

Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus X X

H Green Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius pulchellus X

Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis X X

CROWS, JAYS & MAGPIES CORVIDAE

White-throated Magpie-Jay Calocitta formosa X

Brown Jay Psilorhinus morio X X

SWALLOWS HIRUNDINIDAE

Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca X X X

Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis X

Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis X

Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea X

Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea X

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica X X

WRENS TROGLODYTIDAE

H Nightingale Wren Microcerculus philomela X

House Wren Troglodytes aedon X X X

E Ochraceous Wren Troglodytes ochraceus X X

31

BIRDS: SITES:

WRENS Cont. TROGLODYTIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

E Timberline Wren Thryorchilus browni X

Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus X

Rufous-naped Wren Campylorhynchus rufinucha X X

E Black-bellied Wren Pheugopedius fasciatoventris X

Rufous-breasted Wren Pheugopedius rutilus X

E Black-throated Wren Pheugopedius atrogularis X

Rufous-and-white Wren Thryophilus rufalbus X

E Stripe-breasted Wren Cantorchilus thoracicus X

Plain Wren Cantorchilus modestus X X X

E Riverside Wren Cantorchilus semibadius X

H Bay Wren Cantorchilus nigricapillus X

White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta X X

Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys X X X

GNATCATCHERS POLIOPTILIDAE

Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus X

White-lored Gnatcatcher Polioptila albiloris X

Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea X

DIPPERS CINCLIDAE

American Dipper Cinclus mexicanus X

THRUSHES & ALLIES TURDIDAE

E Black-faced Solitaire Myadestes melanops X X

E Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush Catharus gracilirostris X

Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush Catharus aurantiirostris X X

Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush Catharus fuscater X

Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush Catharus frantzii X

Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush Catharus mexicanus X

Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina X X

E Sooty Thrush Turdus nigrescens X

Mountain Thrush Turdus plebejus X

Clay-colored Thrush Turdus grayi X X X X X X X

SILKY-FLYCATCHERS PTILOGONATIDAE

E Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher Ptilogonys caudatus X

32 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

BIRDS: SITES:

NEW WORLD WARBLERS PARULIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla X

Louisiana Waterthrush Parkesia motacilla X X

Northern Waterthrush Parkesia noveboracensis X

Golden-winged Warbler Vermivora chrysoptera X X

Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia X X

Prothonotary Warbler Protonotaria citrea X

E Flame-throated Warbler Oreothlypis gutturalis X

Tennessee Warbler Oreothlypis peregrina X X X

Kentucky Warbler Geothlypis formosa X

H Hooded Warbler Setophaga citrina X

Tropical Parula Setophaga pitiayumi X

Blackburnian Warbler Setophaga fusca X

Yellow Warbler Setophaga petechia X

Chestnut-sided Warbler Setophaga pensylvanica

Black-throated Green Warbler Setophaga virens X X X

E Black-cheeked Warbler Basileuterus melanogenys X

Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus X

H Buff-rumped Warbler Myiothlypis fulvicauda X X X

Wilson's Warbler Cardellina pusilla X X X

Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus X

E Collared Redstart Myioborus torquatus X

E Wrenthrush (Zeledonia) Zeledonia coronata X

TANAGERS THRAUPIDAE

Gray-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata X

White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus X

Tawny-crested Tanager Tachyphonus delatrii X

E White-throated Shrike-Tanager Lanio leucothorax X

Passerini's Tanager Ramphocelus passerinii X

E Cherrie's Tanager Ramphocelus costaricensis X

Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus X X X X

Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum X X

E Blue-and-gold Tanager Bangsia arcaei X

33

BIRDS: SITES:

TANAGERS THRAUPIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Golden-hooded Tanager Tangara larvata X X

E Spangle-cheeked Tanager Tangara dowii X

E Plain-colored Tanager Tangara inornata X

Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola X X X X

Emerald Tanager Tangara florida X

Silver-throated Tanager Tangara icterocephala X X

Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana X

Shining Honeycreeper Cyanerpes lucidus X X

Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus X X

Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza X

E Black-and-yellow Tanager Chrysothlypis chrysomelas X

E Slaty Flowerpiercer Diglossa plumbea X

E Peg-billed Finch Acanthidops bairdi X

Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina X

Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina X X

White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola X X

E Nicaraguan Seed-Finch Oryzoborus nuttingi X

Thick-billed Seed-Finch Oryzoborus funereus X X

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola X X

Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus X X X

Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens X

Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus X X

BUNTINGS & NEW WORLD SPARROWS EMBERIZIDAE

E Yellow-thighed Finch Pselliophorus tibialis X

E Large-footed Finch Pezopetes capitalis X

H Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Arremon brunneinucha X X

Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris X X

H Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris X

White-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes albinucha X

White-eared Ground-Sparrow Melozone leucotis X

Stripe-headed Sparrow Peucaea ruficauda X

Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis X X X

34 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

BIRDS: SITES:

BUNTINGS & NEW WORLD SPARROWS Cont. EMBERIZIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

E Volcano Junco Junco vulcani X Chlorospingus Common Bush-Tanager ophthalmicus X X X

E Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus pileatus X

Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus canigularis X

CARDINALS & ALLIES CARDINALIDAE

Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava X

Summer Tanager Piranga rubra X X X

Flame-colored Tanager Piranga bidentata X X

H Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica X

Red-throated Ant-Tanager Habia fuscicauda X

Black-faced Grosbeak Caryothraustes poliogaster X X

E Black-thighed Grosbeak Pheucticus tibialis X

Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus X

Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea X

Painted Bunting Passerina ciris X

TROUPIALS & ALLIES ICTERIDAE

Red-winged Blackbird Agelaius phoeniceus X X

Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna X

Melodious Blackbird Dives dives X X

Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus X X

Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis X

Black-cowled Oriole Icterus prosthemelas X

Streak-backed Oriole Icterus pustulatus X

Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula X X X X

Scarlet-rumped Cacique Cacicus uropygialis X

Chestnut-headed Oropendola Psarocolius wagleri X

Montezuma Oropendola Psarocolius montezuma X

SISKINS, CROSSBILLS & ALLIES FRINGILLIDAE

Scrub Euphonia Euphonia affinis X X

Yellow-crowned Euphonia Euphonia luteicapilla X

Yellow-throated Euphonia Euphonia hirundinacea X

Elegant Euphonia Euphonia elegantissima X

35

BIRDS: SITES:

SISKINS, CROSSBILLS & ALLIES Cont. FRINGILLIDAE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Olive-backed Euphonia Euphonia gouldi X

E Golden-browed Chlorophonia Chlorophonia callophrys X X

Yellow-bellied Siskin Spinus xanthogastrus X

OLD WORLD SPARROWS PASSERIDAE

House Sparrow Passer domesticus X

36 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report

MAMMAL LIST SITES:

BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Nine-banded Armadillo Dasypus novemcinctus X

GO Northern Tamandua Tamadua mexicana X

White-headed Capuchin Cebus capucinus X

Mantled Howler Alouatta palliata X X

Geoffroy's Spider-Monkey Ateles geoffroyi X

Central American Agouti Dasyprocta punctata X X

Variegated Squirrel Sciurus variegatoides X

White-nosed Coati Nasua narica X

Harriss's Olingo Bassaricyon lasius X

Collared Peccary Pecari tajacu X

A SELECTION OF OTHER WILDLIFE BC LS SAV CAR TR MON ER

Bransford's Litter Frog (photo below) Craugastor bransfordii X

Smoky Jungle Frog Leptodactylus savagei X

Strawberry Poison Dart Frog Oophaga pumilio X

Brown (Striped) Basilisk Basiliscus vittatus X X

Ctenosaur Ctenosaurua similis X

Green Iguana Iguana iguana X

Coral Snake Micrurus nigrocinctus X

American Crocodile Crocodylus acutus X

Malachite Siproeta stelenes X

Blue Morpho Morpho marinita X

37