TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report COSTA RICA: The Introtour Resplendent Quetzal at Savegre, the very predictable, and landslide winner, of the BIRD-OF-THE-TRIP vote 16 – 26 February 2013 Tour Leader: Michael Retter (with Sam Woods as co-guide) Report written by Sam Woods Thanks to tour participant Linda Rudolph for contributing the Lesser Ground-Cuckoo photo Birds in RED are featured in the photos within the trip report 1 Although this was titled an “Introtour”, this should not mislead you into thinking the tour did not go after the 70 or so endemics of the region found in this tiny Central American nation, and therefore this tour offered much for even “old hands” of the Neotropics, in addition to offering new “tropical birders” a satisfying first dip into the megadiversity of the region. To illustrate this extreme diversity, and how it offers much even to “hardened” tropical birders, Tropical Birding guide Sam Woods, was along to learn the ropes for this tour, and to experience for the first time why Costa Rica draws people back time and again. Having had substantial experience in the Neotropics, having lived in Ecuador for some 7 years or so, and also having traveled to five South American countries already plus Mexico, you would perhaps think this tour would offer little in the way of new birds; wrong. Central America, and most notably Costa Rica and Panama, share some isolated mountain ranges which yield more than 100 endemics in this region, around 70 of which are found in Costa Rica alone. For this reason, Sam walked away with more than 70 LIFEBIRDS, in spite of a long history of guiding (and traveling) in the wider region already. This tour, while being short, actually covers a lot of ground, and visits a range of important avifaunal regions in the country, made possible by the fact that Costa Rica is small and very accessible, with good roads permeating the country, making it feasible to visit a number of different faunal zones in even a short time. We started on the middle elevations of the Pacific Slope (Braulio Carrillo NP), before dropping into the moist lowlands of the Caribbean Slope at La Selva. After La Selva we moved back over to the Pacific Slope and the absorbing highlands, scouring the Savegre Valley for both quetzals and the Chiriqui endemics. Then we moved down slope to the sweaty lowlands of the Pacific side, at Carara National Park, before taking in the highlands once more at the world famous cloudforest of Monteverde, before finally looping back to Costa Rica’s bustling capital, San Jose. This tour is far from about ONE bird, although you could be forgiven for thinking it was, especially when we visited the Savegre Valley, with its blatant and bold marketing of their prime “bird of paradise”, the legendary Resplendent Quetzal. So first off, to deal with potential questions hanging in the air out there regarding this scarlet-and-emerald beauty; YES, we did see it, and YES we did see it well; very, very well indeed. We not only had walkaway views at a nest site in Savegre, but were also gifted views of both the male and female coming down to a scenic mountain river to bathe at length to the joy of photographers and videographers in the group. However, it is most likely that everyone will remember the remarkable male that sat at eye level, with his long, long emerald “tail feathers” (actually formed from the elegant upper tail covert plumes), hanging seductively below him. All the while his jeweled green coat shimmered with the changing sunlight, and its breast glowed scarlet. For good reason, this species is often touted as one of the greatest birds on Earth, and after this show it was pretty hard to argue with that. Of course, with such a splendid performance from Costa Rica’s “pin-up bird”, nothing else could realistically get a look in for top bird of the trip, and it was no surprise to find the quetzal had not only won the popular vote for BIRD-OF-THE-TRIP, but had done so with a landslide victory! 2 TROPICAL BIRDING Costa Rica Introtour 2013 Trip Report There is, however, much more besides JUST the quetzal in Costa Rica, which sometimes gets forgotten in the substantial wake of the quetzal; we enjoyed seeing SEVEN different members of the trogon family; puffbirds were represented with TWO species of their own, providing a new family for some in the group. On top of this were THIRTY different hummingbird species (many of which were seen at arm’s length thanks to an impressive number of feeder locations); and TWENTY-SIX different parrots, including the mighty, and genuinely rare, Great Green Macaw. Some of the NON-quetzal standouts were Snowcap, a beautiful hummingbird that cannot possibly disappoint; some snazzy, regional endemic specialties like Spangle-cheeked Tanager, and the gobsmackingly gorgeous Golden-browed Chlorophonia. A brief sojourn into some drier country than most of the tour, was sufficient to pick up a Lesser Ground- Cuckoo creeping quietly, and ever so slowly, through the underbrush directly towards us; clearly thinking that if it sidled up to us at this sloth-like pace, we would not see it! This bird was wrong-very wrong-and this species, which is far from regular on this itinerary, was very popular during the final dinner reflections on the tour. Costa Rica provided some choice night birds for us this year too, and with minimal effort required too, for a day-roosting Black-and-white Owl seen brilliantly near steamy Carara National Park, due in no small part to the local knowledge and generosity of our local driver Dennis, which by the end of the trip had almost convinced us that he was actually an undercover bird guide! In addition to a strong bird list, which surpassed 410 species, a record for the tour, we were also courted by some classic Neotropical animals, such as Mantled Howler (Monkey), and spider-monkeys, to giant Blue Morpho butterflies flapping lazily through the understory, to Collared Peccaries shuffling through the forest, there was plenty outside of the bird realm to admire too. And then, of course, there was the country itself: Costa Rica is a shining example and world leader when it comes to eco, nature, and bird tourism. This tiny nation is adorned with many super hotels, lodges, and reserves to keep birders and nature lovers busy, and more than happy, throughout this classic, absorbing, and ever-popular tour. Who will guide this next year, I do not know; but I, for one, have fallen under this country’s spell, like so many have before me. Do not make the mistake of thinking this is only appropriate for the beginner/first-timer to the tropics; this ranked right up there with the many other ventures into the tropics I have already taken. I sincerely hope to return to this friendly nation soon: PURA VIDA, as they say (and brand) Costa Rica! TOP FIVE BIRDS OF THE TRIP: 1 Resplendent Quetzal It could not possibly lose after the remarkable lengthy showing in Savegre that imprinted this bird indelibly in our hearts and memories forever. 2 Golden-browed Chlorophonia Surprisingly difficult to see as it forages in the canopy, this species, which is decked out in the brightest of greens imaginable quite simply snatches the breath away on any sighting; it is just so bright, and so attractive, and quite unlike anything else in the country. (photo left) 3 Snowcap The jewel in the crown of Costa Rica’s hummingbirds, by virtue of its unique dress: a neat white cap is perched on the deepest of purple bodies, a combination which allures all who travel to the country in 3 search of birds (and many others besides). Being able to watch them foraging at eye level with the sun on their backs helped keep this bird a firm favorite long after we saw it, on the opening day. 4= Lesser Ground-Cuckoo Sometimes it is not the most colorful star that shines the brightest. This bird may be decked out in rusty tones, but its behavior, furtive nature, and some wonderful blue “eye make-up” ensured it gave some of the more colorful species a true run for their money. We waited, impatiently, in the hot tropical sun, while the low muffled calls of the cuckoo drifted to our ears. Michael teased it out skillfully, having had plentiful experience with the species in Mexico especially, and then, suddenly, it blurred into our vision as it slowly, but very deliberately, stalked towards the sound, directly at us. Supremely confident of its own ability to hide by stealthy movements, and cryptic coloration, the bird approached within just a few meters range, confident it was hidden by the scant cover, making for a fantastic tour moment. Not usually a regular on this itinerary too. 4= Black-and-white Owl When you see a large and striking owl sitting in the open, at a day roost, it would be hard to fathom if it did not make the top trip bird list, and so it proved: Popular AND stunning, making this entry a virtual “no brainer”. Thanks to our driver, for remembering where someone had shown him this bird recently, and for NOT telling us we actually might be trespassing (harmlessly), until AFTER we’d seen it! Cunning; but effective. Itinerary: 16 Feb. - Arrival/night San Jose 17 Feb. - San Jose to Braulio Carrillo NP & La Selva/night La Selva 18 Feb.