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El% Salvador 503 / POP 6.4 MILLION

Includes  Why Go? San Salvador. . . . .290 Wanted: public relations expert to rebrand Central America’s La Libertad. . . . . 305 most underrated country. Criteria: passion for adventure and La Costa dispelling travel myths. Salary: the honor of righting a travel del Bálsamo . . . . 306 wrong. Santa Ana ...... 311 suffers horribly from bad press. While gang Ruta de Las Flores. . 316 violence still dominates international headlines – and keeps so many adventurous travelers at bay – the vast majority of Parque Nacional this beautiful country remains untouched by ‘the troubles.’ El Imposible...... 323 Those visitors who do make the effort are invariably im- San Miguel...... 327 pressed by just how much this tiny country has to offer: La Unión...... 330 world-class surfing on empty, dark-sand beaches; coffee Morazán...... 332 plantations clinging to the sides of volcanoes; colorful Span- Suchitoto...... 334 ish colonial towns; and sublime national parks. There are few crowds outside the capital, San Salvador, which itself Chalatenango. . . . 336 boasts more swagger than its Central American counter- La Palma...... 338 parts. There is only so much encouragement we can give; it’s now up to you. Please inquire within.

Best Places to Eat ¨¨Beto’s, Zona Rosa (p300) When to Go ¨¨R&R (p321) San Salvador °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨ Balompie Sports Bar & 40/104 30/750 Cafe (p315) 30/86 24/600 ¨¨Sharky’s (p308) 20/68 18/450

10/50 12/300

Best Places to 0/32 6/150

Sleep -10/14 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨La Tortuga Verde (p331) ¨¨Hostal Cumbres del Volcan Dec–Jan The May–Aug The surf Jul–Nov It’s (p294) landscape is lush gets heavy, early turtle-nesting ¨¨Hotel Mopelia (p307) and green after August brings a season right along the rainy season week-long celebra- the 300km Pacific ¨¨Los Almendros de San and the weather is tion of El Salvador’s Ocean coastline. Lorenzo (p336) perfect. patron saint. ¨¨Hotel Anáhuac (p321)  El Salvador 287 ­ ­

US$10 US$1.42 US$0.70 US$0.94 US$1.13 US$0.78 US$0.74 (www. (lonely (www.search- UK£1 NZ$1 ¥100 €1 C$1 A$1 US$7–10 US$0.25 21,040 sq km sq 21,040 SalvaNATURA Beat Search Planet Lonely Three-hour ride bus Surfboard rental Ministry of Dorm bed Dorm Bottle of beer US$1.50 Bean-and-cheese AT A GLANCEAT US Currency (US$) Spanish, Language Nahuat - plen are ATMs Money cards and credit tiful, widely accepted for cards Tourist Visas coun- most of citizens and are US$10 cost tries 90 days up to for valid Standard Time Central minus Time (GMT/UTC six hours) Area Salvador San Capital 911 Emergency ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ UK New Zealand New Japan Euro zone Euro Canada Australia planet.com/el-salvador) planet.com/el-salvador) US$1.50 (www.elsalvador.travel) beat.com/elsalvador.htm) pupusa ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ Set Your Budget Set Your Resources Exchange Rates salvanatura.org) salvanatura.org) - - -

(pork round a mixture a which which chicharrón (roasted corn (roasted

(bakeries) usually usually (bakeries) and mora, (mixed filling), then grilled. filling), Curtido, (mixed (fruit drinks made with water or milk) are perfectly (rice milk and cinnamon) and chilate is not coleslaw puree, but a mixed fruit juice served Now you have a choice (if you didn’t already). Head to to Head already). didn’t (if you a choice have you Now then and Suchitoto and visit La Palma the mountains Nicaragua, bound for are If you Salvador. San to return El Playa Alternatively, along the highway. east scoot the islands in Golfo exploring for base is a relaxing Cuco Miguel and even San around the volcanoes de Fonseca, of Morozán. stronghold ex-guerrilla the further north to via La Unión. the country Exit Two Weeks Two El Salvador is small; this itinerary can you get across the across get you can is small; this itinerary El Salvador from enter you assume Let’s in a week. whole country Bálsamo, del Costa along the straight Head . de- Zonte, El or Playa Tunco El sleeping in either Playa deRuta to north Head you need. much rest pending how in small artisanal and culture coffee sample to las Flores Cerro hiking nearby Spend a day Juayúa. Sleep in towns. Sleep in . at pyramids or visit the Maya Verde and galleries the capital’s then explore Salvador, San museums. ITINERARIES Week One Licuados El Salvador’s most famous food by far is the pupusa, A typical breakfast includes eggs, beans or casamiento ¨ ¨ ¨ cornmeal dough stuffed with a combination of cheese, refried beans, wild vegetables such as ayote means soft drink in many countries, means lemonade here. Horchata suited to El Salvador’s climate. Note that refresco, rinds), or revuelta of pickled cabbage and vegetables, provides the final topping. ¨ ¨ ¨ Essential & Drink Food formation, see Survival see formation, Guide p349. ragua. The best of these are La Tortuga Verde (p331) in El Verde Theragua. best of these are La Tortuga Suchito in ) (p335 Outfitters Adventure Suchitoto and Cuco to continueto. This way is a both a time- and cost-effective detailed more in America. For through Central travels your From Guatemala, enter through Anguiatú, San Cristóbal or Anguiatú, enter through Guatemala, From are Amatillo or El Poy El Honduras, From La Hachadura. are now offering operators options. Many official two your Nica to Potosí, El Salvador, La from transfers Unión, boat Connections (rice and beans mixed together), fried plantains, cheese, tortillas and coffee or juice. Panaderías offer a selection of morning cakes and coffee. alternatives popular are ingredients) natural other with drink found at street stalls and most restaurants. A refresco de ensalada with a spoon for the fruit salad floating on top, sangria style.