©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd El% Salvador 503 / POP 6.4 MILLION Includes ¨ Why Go? San Salvador ........290 Wanted: public relations expert to rebrand Central America’s La Libertad ........ 305 most underrated country. Criteria: passion for adventure and La Costa dispelling travel myths. Salary: the honor of righting a travel del Bálsamo ....... 306 wrong. Santa Ana ..........311 El Salvador suffers horribly from bad press. While gang Ruta de Las Flores ...316 violence still dominates international headlines – and keeps so many adventurous travelers at bay – the vast majority of Parque Nacional this beautiful country remains untouched by ‘the troubles.’ El Imposible. 323 Those visitors who do make the effort are invariably im- San Miguel ..........327 pressed by just how much this tiny country has to offer: La Unión ........... 330 world-class surfing on empty, dark-sand beaches; coffee Morazán ........... 332 plantations clinging to the sides of volcanoes; colorful Span- Suchitoto .......... 334 ish colonial towns; and sublime national parks. There are few crowds outside the capital, San Salvador, which itself Chalatenango ...... 336 boasts more swagger than its Central American counter- La Palma .......... 338 parts. There is only so much encouragement we can give; it’s now up to you. Please inquire within. Best Places to Eat ¨ Beto’s, Zona Rosa (p300) When to Go ¨ R&R (p321) San Salvador °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ Balompie Sports Bar & 40/104 30/750 Cafe (p315) 30/86 24/600 ¨ Sharky’s (p308) 20/68 18/450 10/50 12/300 Best Places to 0/32 6/150 Sleep -10/14 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ La Tortuga Verde (p331) ¨ Hostal Cumbres del Volcan Dec–Jan The May–Aug The surf Jul–Nov It’s (p294) landscape is lush gets heavy, early turtle-nesting ¨ Hotel Mopelia (p307) and green after August brings a season right along the rainy season week-long celebra- the 300km Pacific ¨ Los Almendros de San and the weather is tion of El Salvador’s Ocean coastline. Lorenzo (p336) perfect. patron saint. ¨ Hotel Anáhuac (p321) 287 Connections AT A GLANCE From Guatemala, enter through Anguiatú, San Cristóbal or Currency US dollar La Hachadura. From Honduras, El Poy or El Amatillo are (US$) your two official options. Many operators are now offering Language Spanish, boat transfers from La Unión, El Salvador, to Potosí, Nica- Nahuat ragua. The best of these are La Tortuga Verde (p331) in El Cuco and Suchitoto Adventure Outfitters (p335) in Suchito- Money ATMs are plen- to. This is a both a time- and cost-effective way to continue tiful, and credit cards your travels through Central America. For more detailed in- widely accepted formation, see Survival Guide p349. Visas Tourist cards for citizens of most coun- tries cost US$10 and are ITINERARIES valid for up to 90 days One Week Time Central Standard El Salvador is small; this itinerary can you get across the Time (GMT/UTC minus whole country in a week. Let’s assume you enter from six hours) Guatemala. Head straight along the Costa del Bálsamo, Area 21,040 sq km sleeping in either Playa El Tunco or Playa El Zonte, de- Capital San Salvador pending how much rest you need. Head north to Ruta de las Flores to sample coffee and culture in small artisanal Emergency 911 towns. Sleep in Juayúa. Spend a day hiking nearby Cerro SALVADOR EL Verde or visit the Maya pyramids at Tazumal. Sleep in San Salvador, then explore the capital’s galleries and museums. Exchange Rates Two Weeks Australia A$1 US$0.74 Now you have a choice (if you didn’t already). Head to Canada C$1 US$0.78 the mountains and visit La Palma and Suchitoto then Euro zone €1 US$1.13 return to San Salvador. If you are bound for Nicaragua, Japan ¥100 US$0.94 scoot east along the highway. Alternatively, Playa El New Zealand NZ$1 US$0.70 Cuco is a relaxing base for exploring the islands in Golfo de Fonseca, the volcanoes around San Miguel and even UK UK£1 US$1.42 further north to the ex-guerrilla stronghold of Morozán. Exit the country via La Unión. Set Your Budget ¨ Dorm bed US$7–10 Essential Food & Drink ¨ Bottle of beer US$1.50 ¨ ¨ A typical breakfast includes eggs, beans or casamiento Three-hour bus ride (rice and beans mixed together), fried plantains, cheese, US$1.50 tortillas and coffee or juice. Panaderías (bakeries) usually ¨ Bean-and-cheese offer a selection of morning cakes and coffee. pupusa US$0.25 ¨ El Salvador’s most famous food by far is the pupusa, round ¨ Surfboard rental US$10 cornmeal dough stuffed with a combination of cheese, refried beans, wild vegetables such as ayote and mora, chicharrón (pork rinds), or revuelta (mixed filling), then grilled. Curtido, a mixture Resources of pickled cabbage and vegetables, provides the final topping. ¨ Ministry of Tourism ¨ Licuados (fruit drinks made with water or milk) are perfectly (www.elsalvador.travel) suited to El Salvador’s climate. Note that refresco, which ¨ SalvaNATURA (www. means soft drink in many countries, means lemonade here. salvanatura.org) Horchata (rice milk and cinnamon) and chilate (roasted corn drink with other natural ingredients) are popular alternatives ¨ Search Beat (www.search- found at street stalls and most restaurants. A refresco de beat.com/elsalvador.htm) ensalada is not coleslaw puree, but a mixed fruit juice served ¨ Lonely Planet (lonely with a spoon for the fruit salad floating on top, sangria style. planet.com/el-salvador) .