Heian , Costume 102 Pennsic 39 Prepared by: Sayyidaefendi Jahan ara bint al-Yehya amat al-Hafeeza August, 2010 Presented by: Fujinami no Kaede-hime

GLOSSARY (To learn the costume, one must know what names to research.) Mono no aware: beauty is precious because it is brief. A phrase coined in the 19th century . Long pleated, very loose trouser worn by men and women became the edification of the ideal that was the Haribakama. Another term for the Hakama worn by women. basis for aesthetics of the Heian Era in Japan Heian-Kyo. - (Tranquility and Peace) Capital city during the Heian city; modern day Kyoto (794-1192). Hitoe. Type of underwear, sometimes referred to as the chemise, worn beneath the Uchigi and Japan first began to develop its own over the and Hakama or Naga-bakama. It is the first visible layer. personalized identity specifically in regard to the Itsutsu-ginu. (robes) The robes worn over the Hitoe and under the Karaginu and Mo. Also cultural arts and dress during the Heian imperial referred to as Uchigi. court in the ninth to eleventh centuries. Prior to Juni-hitoe. Literally “twelve layers”, this is the term for the formal court attire of Heian women, this period of time, the Japanese culture consisting of a kosode, a hitoe, a naga-bakama, and many layers of uchigi, often finished with a observed Chinese customs and cultures. karaginu and mo. In 1074, the sumptuary laws changed, limiting the number of uchigi to 5. For the women, Colors for robes came to be Karaginu. Chinese styled jacket worn over the and Mo for formal occasions. It was a combined into discreetly named combinations very ornate layer, decorated either with brocade, embroidery, or painted images and is worn by known as irome no kasane. This sensitive high ranked nobility. layering of colors developed into a full and Karaginu mo. More accurate term for a court lady’s formal robes, commonly referred to as juni- subtle bloom over the course of 300 years. hitoe. Very little in the emerging style was Chinese. As Kosode. (short sleeve) Term used for the traditional robe style of Heian Japan. It is also the an actual mode of dress, kasane fashion passed term for the undergarment of both women and men’s clothing. away with courtly society, but its influence on Ko-uchigi. (little cloak A dressing robe that could be put on over the uchigi to slightly dress up style has had echoes down even to the outfit. present day. Kumihimo. (gathered threads) For the men, the colors of garments could Mo Train or apron-skirt worn over the juni-hitoe for formal occassions. It was considered very represent their court rank, family status, and formal and was required of women of the court while on official duty position in day to day life. naga-bakama.(divided skirt) Formal version of Hakama worn by court women Color names and layered colors are woven Uchigi. The outside uchigi was called Uwagi and the ones worn under it were called Kasane- through out Heian culture not only in the clothing Uchigi. The highest ranked court ladies could wear patterned silk; the ordinary court ladies wore but also in poetry and literature—serving to pull unpatterned waves similar to modern habutae. They were also called the Itsutsuginu or kinu. together nature, season, person and incident Uwagi. (over robe) This robe topped the layers of Uchigi. The higher the rank, the into a poetic whole. longer the Uwagi. All of the Heian until you get to high noble 1 nae-eboshi (the hat) wear is comprised of two kosode as base layers. The very bottom white layer (underwear of the time) and the Hitoe or Hitare. Men of 2 Hitatare (typical men’s outer the common clase wore clothing like the images on this page. Their kosode) Hitare (Kosode) is very practical with ties to keep the front collar closed. It is tucked into the Hakama to keep it from catching on 3 hitatare no munahimo things. In later period the Hitare became more and more popular (the tie on the chest, often flat- within the aristocracy. braid similar to kumihimo) The Hakama are pulled up and tied most likely so that they both don‟t catch on things but also to keep out of the dust, dirt and mud. 4 kukuri-bakama (hakama that are tied up near knees) Leggings similar to those you see in Northern Eurpoe are used for the military and nobel classes, in the more common classes you saw fabric 5 Muchi (the stick) wrapped with ties at the top and/or bottom. I generally suggest that newcomers to a Heian Japanese persona try to make some common wear first both so that you have more 6 (leg ‘spats’) instant gratification and because it is always good to have something you get wear to Pennsic!

Courtier‟s clothing, that of the noble class for men, much like the women, quickly becomes more intricate and complicated. While they do not wear nearly the number of layers as the women, there are rules regarding court and military rank for colour and style. We recommend you take a look at Master Edward of Effingham‟s (Anthony Bryant) website http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/. for more information on the detailed ranks. 1 kanmuri crown This is the “Ikan” the typcal court dress during for Courtiers and Nobels. a koji Of the two, Figure 1 (below, left) is of a light green colour b kogai and was that of special permission granted by the Emperor c hitai at the time. It is a more elegant design and considered „formal d ei court wear.‟ Figure 2 (below, right) is everyday wear for court noble. (the „crown‟ is one of the more This Ikan is comprised of the following basic layers: ho the common head adornments) outer robe and sashinuki a divided long skirt or trousers as well as hitoe and kosode (your underlayers) 2 Ho (the main garment, To complete the outfit, a Heian nobleman is almost always overlayer) in possession of some papers of importance, blank notes and a fan. 3 sashinuki or nu-bakama (the courtier‟s hakama pulled up and tied closed at the ankles)

4 Hitoe (underlayer, often stiffened/starched or made with unfinished silk)

5 tato paper

6 hi-ogi fan

Figure 1 Figure 2 1 sage-gami (the hair is pulled Women‟s clothing for the common class also retained much of the back simplicity of the (710-794). Unlike the noble class, with a tie) women of the common class still needed to be mobile and thus the layers were minimal. They wore a natural kosode beneath the overobe, hakama shibiradatsu. (hosoobi) 2 Kosode tucked into the or A sash was worn (the Kosode was sometimes about the waist to keep the kosode closed. short, but generally came Juni-hitoe, a Court Lady’s Costume below the knees) The Noble Class – Karaginu-mo is the more accurate term for a court lady‟s formal juni-hitoe 3 shibiradatsu-mono robes, commonly referred to as . The characteristic of the juni-hitoe kasane no irome (from the Nara period, pre “ ” lies in the stacking of the colors ( ) made 794, this skirt was still seen visible at the bottom of the costume, at the collar, and at the within the common class in armholes by the progressive shift of each layer (Sugino, 2002) Juni-hitoe translates as “12 layers” but the name is misleading. Heian Japan) Juni-hitoe refers to the internal layers dressed between the hitoe (chemise) and the ko-uchigi or uwagi (both being outer dress robes). Before the sumptuary law of 1074 limited the number of these many colored layers, noble women wore as many as 40 uchigi under the outer robes depending on the season and the traditional scheme for the day per kasane no irome. (Harvey 2001, Dalby, 2001). After 1074, the number of uchigi was limited to only 5 (Harvey, 2001). This is because many layers of silk, especially when it is lined and quilted is extremely heavy and difficult to move around in. Court women spent as much time moving around on their knees as they did walking because of the court custom of never being higher than the emperor (Morris, 1994, pg. 137). While the basic construction of the juni-hitoe is simple, each layer is a modified kosode with longer sleeves, and well below the feet in length, our recommendation is that before you try to construct one, you do some research on the colour schemes of the heian era. Colour is everything in one‟s clothing in Heian Japan. This is a very brief overview of what Costume in Heian Japan can be. For further information or a copy of our Working Bibliography, Class notes from more indepth classes we‟ve taught, mini-Thesis on the 7 Juni-Hitoe or just about anything else, you can visit our website. 5 http://www.freki.com/Galen/jahan_ara/Heian/main.html

1 Kaede-hime and Jahan Ara are always willing to answer questions, teach classes, or help out in any way with your Heian (or Japanese) persona and clothing. If we don‟t know it, or have access to it, we will 3 do our best to put you in touch with someone who does. 4 Contact us! 2 Kaede-hime (RoseAnna Downing-Vicklund) [email protected] Sayyidaefendi (THLady) Jahan Ara amat al-Hafeeza [email protected]

Selected Resources 6 Bryant, A. E. o. E. (2004). Sengoku Daimyo Homepage: http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/. Costume Museum, I. (2009). Costume Museum, Kyoto (Japanese Version): http://www.iz2.or.jp/. It consists of the following articles of clothing: Minnich, H. B. (1963). Japanese Costume and the Makers of Its Elegant Tradition. Tokyo, Charles E. Tuttle Co. 1 Karigino Munsterberg, H., 1916- (1996). The Japanese Kimono. New York, 2 Mo Oxford University Press. 3 Uwagi Schalow, P. G. (2007). A poetics of courtly male friendship in Heian 4 Uchigi or Itsu-ginu Japan. Honolulu, university of Hawai„i Press. 5 Hitoe Stevens, Rebecca A. T. and Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada (1996). The 6 Nagabakama Kimono Inspiration: Art and Art-to-wear in America. Pomegranate. 7 Kosode