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Mount Everest Planning Package (29,035 ft/8,850 m) Climber Information

Keep in Touch Alpine Ascents highly recommends the services of Charles As a member of our Everest team we encourage you to contact us Mulvehill at Scan East West (800) 727-2157 or (206) 623-2157 with any questions as our intent is to provide personal attention to or [email protected] when making flight arrangements. your preparation needs. While this document will answer many of your questions, we enjoy hearing about your specific interests and Getting to , look forward to making the pre-trip planning an exciting part of the journey. Please take the time to read this document in For those arriving early or departing after the scheduled itinerary, full. Alpine Ascents practices Leave No Trace Principles we are happy to make hotel and airport transfer arrangements. on all expeditions Please contact our office in advance of your departure if you would like us to make additional reservations for you. Alpine Ascents Seattle: (206) 378-1927 We are happy to accommodate all flights. Please email a copy of your flight itinerary to our offices. We will review your itinerary to Paperwork ensure you will arrive on time.

Please return the following paperwork within 14 days for Arrival: We will pick you up at the airport. Please look for an documents that can be self completed and 90 days for all others. Alpine Ascents sign upon leaving the terminal. It is very rare that This information assists us in procuring permits and making final we miss a pick up. If you have waited more then 45 minutes for hotel reservations. a pick up please proceed directly to the and hotel (see hotels and lodging). You can also contact our local representative ⎕ Application ⎕ Flight Itinerary ⎕ Passport Copy Jiban Ghimire on his mobile at: 977-985-103-5161, email: ⎕ Risk Release Form ⎕ Medical Release Form [email protected] ⎕ Two Passport Photos ⎕ Bio Data Form Upon arrival at the airport in KTM, be aware of people trying to “help” you with your luggage cart and then demanding large tips. Travel Arrangements Better to decline their services, roll your own luggage cart outside to the pick-up area and then follow the directions of the Alpine Flights Ascents representative, who you need not tip.

You must arrive in Kathmandu on March 31. Your departure Missed Flights: If you miss your flight, please leave a message date should be transferable as the actual return to Kathmandu is for Gordon Janow, Director of Programs at: (206) 419-0097 (texting difficult to predict with lengthy expeditions. Once the expedition is ok) or email [email protected]. Please inform us of is completed, we will assist in changing your flight bookings. your new arrival information as soon as possible. Flight reservations for your expedition should be made as soon as possible.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 1 Visas & Passports

The easiest way to obtain a Nepal visa is in the Kathmandu airport. Upon arrival in the KTM airport fill out the necessary forms and proceed to the visa line. We will obtain a trekking permit for you in KTM.

• Current visa cost is $125.00 and is subject to change.

• Please obtain a 90 day visa.

• You will need 2 passport photos which can also be easily obtained at the airport.

Please be advised that you must have a valid passport that does not expire for at least 6 months from date of entry and that has extra pages for most countries. Please see any specific entry requirements in this document; but note you are responsible to determine entry requirements for your passport/nationality. Alpine Ascents is happy to work closely with all climbers to determine visa/entry requirements. US citizens can consult US State department website a travel.state.gov/travel/travel_1744.html

Lodging When exploring the political climate of Nepal, note the specific In Kathmandu region of travel. Our trek and climb take place in and around the Everest region, known as the . Hotel Yak & Yeti P.O. Box. 1016, Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 977-1-4248999, 240520 Fax: 977-1-4227781/4227782 Emergency Contact www.yakandyeti.com The best way for family or friends to contact you in an emergency Please note that Single Room Supplement is for Kathmandu only is through the Seattle office: (206) 378-1927. For emergencies after as we cannot pre book single rooms in the Khumbu. business hours, you may contact our Director of Programs, Gordon Janow at home: (206) 419-0097. (texting is ok)

Health Requirements In Nepal, you can reach Jiban Ghimire, our local agent, at 977-985- 103-5161 or email [email protected]. There are currently no health requirements for entering the country of Nepal. Travelers should consider inoculations such as 1) Update polio and tetanus; 2) Hepatitis A; 3) prophylactics Weather Reports (not prevalent in Everest region). Climbers should bring a personal medical kit which can include prescription drugs and Diamox for Alpine Ascents purchases highly specialized weather reports that . We encourage you to review the latest health information assist with climbing bid decisions. on the Center for Disease Control’s website: wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/nepal.htm Communication

Everest communications have improved greatly in the last few Political Climate years with the availability of inexpensive and reliable cell phone service, partial 3G data connections, and wireless internet at We encourage you to visit your home country’s governmental Base Camp. For their communications needs, most climbers travel website. The State Department (USA) travel warnings for bring a small laptop and/or tablet/pad, smart phone. Additional Nepal can be found at: information will be forwarded. travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_980.html

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 2 These gear lists are updated regularly, but some brands and models do change. You are required to bring every item on the list. We are happy to work closely with you on finding the proper gear.

Expenses

With regards to personal expenses, please note that American dollars are the preferred method of payment. Cash or cash in conjunction with a small amount of travelers checks is usually the best option. Credit Cards are fine at bigger hotels. Smaller places do often accept credit cards, but charge a fee. We will work with you in Nepal to change money to Nepalese rupees for the trek and climb.

Money: Most climbers bring $3,000–$4,000 US dollars. It is best to Medical Tent change money at the Yak & Yeti hotel or an authorized exchange house in Kathmandu (we will arrange). Changing money at the Your lead guides on Everest are extremely well-versed in high airport is not recommended. We will organize this with our guide altitude medicine and will assist in monitoring the health of each staff. climber. For the past few years, a high altitude medical clinic was established at Base Camp and climbers will have access to this clinic. Alpine Ascents generally assists in offsetting the fee for this Tipping clinic but climbers may be asked to pay for medical treatment and drugs on a case-by-case basis. We will send tipping guidelines prior to departure.

Food & Water Sherpa Staff

We are all aware of the potential monotony of expedition food Alpine Ascents employs some of the most respected Sherpa and Alpine Ascents makes every effort to have expedition food as guides, cooks, porters, climbers and assistants as part of our enjoyable as possible. We usually ship over one ton of food from Everest team. Our current Sherpa team roster will be posted on the US and spend days food shopping in Kathmandu. Climbers the web site, shortly after our arrival at base camp. Please see the will often have the option of eating local food while on the trek. Everest page of our web site for bios on some of our Sherpa staff:

We provide boiled water in the morning and the evenings and a good variety of hot drinks throughout the trek to Base Camp. Trek to Base Camp & Itinerary Some prefer to supplement this with bottled water which runs from $1- $3/bottle along the trekking route. We prefer that the En route to Everest base camp, you will trek through the famed number of bottles purchased during the expedition be kept to a Khumbu region of Nepal. Most of the Sherpas who will work as minimum. guides, porters, cooks and staff members are from these villages. The trek generally takes 10 days (often adjusted for acclimatization of team members). We take the time to explore cultural elements, Gear such as monasteries and village life.

Your confirmation package includes a link to your gear list and Each season, a number of trekkers join us on the walk to Everest a suggested brand list. We certainly understand that you have base camp. For more information on the trek, please see the personal preferences and have tested gear and gear systems in Everest Trek page of our web site at: the field, but encourage you to contact us with any significant variations from the gear list. Please review your annotated gear list https://www.alpineascents.com/treks/everest-base-camp-trek/ carefully and contact us if any questions. https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-everest/gear-list/

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 3 Cancellation & Refund Policy Cybercasts

NO REFUNDS are provided on the deposit or payments for this This year’s cybercasts will be largely text-based, supplemented by expedition. The reason for such a strict refund policy is due to the occasional satellite phone calls from higher camps as in the past. great expense incurred in such an expedition. All gear and food Guides will post dispatches and digital photos and videos which must be purchased several months in advance to ensure that it go directly to our website at www.alpineascents.com/everest- reaches Nepal and base camp before we arrive. Our refund policy cybercast.asp allowing for immediate posting in the Everest Time also protects other members who have committed their time Zone (+13:45 PST). Please keep in mind that our best efforts and money to the expedition. Please see web site for full list of go into providing this service and many factors (Technological expedition cost inclusions/exclusions. and otherwise) can prevent timely postings from the team and sporadic cybercasts are not an indication that there is a problem https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-everest/price-schedule/ with the expedition or an individual team member.

https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-everest/cybercasts/ Trip Cancellation Insurance

As there are many unforeseen circumstances that may occur during or leading up to the trip, we highly recommend trip Leave No Trace cancellation insurance. Alpine Ascents International practices Trip cancellation insurance may allow you to receive Leave No Trace principles on all reimbursement if you need to cancel your expedition. expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will Please read the Alpine Ascents refund policy for your climb. do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. In most situations, trip cancellation insurance may be the only way to receive a refund for unused services. Please Visit: www.lnt.org/learn/7-principles

Alpine Ascents International offers a plan in conjunction with As guides, we spend time teaching the environmentally our travel insurance partner. The policy below also includes the appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices. There is mandatory Medical Evacuation Insurance policy. Follow the link nothing more beautiful than working hard to get high into the below to register: , come upon a pristine campsite, witness incredible views and have the feeling that no one has been there before. https://www.alpineascents.com/trip-cancellation-insurance-trip/ Conversely, there is nothing more disheartening than working hard to climb a , reaching a site and encountering trash, Recommended Reading food waste and toilet paper. Please read the seven LNT principles, and call the office if you have any questions about what you can Everest: The West Ridge do to plan ahead. by

Into The Silence by Wade Davis

Life and Death on Mt. Everest by Sherri Ortner

For more good reads, visit: https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-everest/

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 4 Preparing for Mt. Everest

A Training Program for Alpine Ascents’ components involved in a climb of such extremes, rather than Mt. Everest Expeditioners dealing with the added harsh reality that your physical preparation may have been somewhat less than adequate. By Courtenay & Doug Schurman of BodyResults.com Prioritize your training efforts in the following way, assuming that Introduction you are in good health and injury-free:

To reach the summit of Everest (29,035 ft./8850 m) you must be in 1. Climbing Conditioning: pack–loaded uphill hiking, walking, top physical, emotional, and psychological condition. Benchmarks and stair climbing for physical conditioning include successful previous trips above 20,000 ft. whenever possible, during which you will have gained 2. Strength Training for the lower body and core experience dealing with gear and equipment, handling extremely cold temperatures and extreme altitude, gaining solid cramponing 3. Cardiovascular Training: including both aerobic and skills both on and off rock, snow and ice, rappelling with a pack anaerobic workouts without pack weight on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed line. In addition to solid alpine living, snow, and ice climbing skills, you need 4. Flexibility Training significant strength endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning. Most people will need to train specifically for their climb of Everest for at least a year, building up from a solid baseline of fitness Keep in mind that just because you exercise regularly at for the last 6–9 months. During your training, you will need to significantly lower does not mean you have suitable progressively ramp up your hike time, distance and elevation gain conditioning needed to stand on top of . Plenty of (at roughly 10% per week) to safely and effectively build your people who have the endurance to run marathons and compete climbing-specific conditioning. Trying to rush this will increase the in triathlons fail to thrive even at base camp. Cardiovascular fitness risk of a training injury and not being ready for your trip. Below are is simply not enough. You should focus on building physical more details of how to incorporate these four priorities into your conditioning at lower necessary to ascend 4,000 ft. in training program. elevation on successive days carrying 50–60 lbs.

Although you will not be carrying such weight on Everest, by Climbing Conditioning conditioning your body to that degree of high tolerance you will have built extra reserves that will serve you very well on the Hike along outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight mountain as you inevitably start to lose musculature and body until you feel comfortable carrying a 50–60 lb. pack. If you live fat from being at extreme altitude for 2 months. This extra reserve where it is relatively flat, go up and down stairs or train on an will also make it possible to focus on the many, many other inclined treadmill or stairmaster. Use whatever varied surface

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 5 (Climbing Conditioning continued) Two training techniques that will be useful for extreme altitude terrain (i.e. gravel beds, sand dunes, river banks) you have access climbing are 1) interval training and 2) back to back training to. A reasonable goal would be to ascend 4,000 ft. carrying an (discussed in more detail in “Putting it all together” below.) To average pack of 50 lbs. in a 2–3 hour period, or roughly 1,500 include interval training, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that vertical feet per hour. A good training option for pack weight will allow you to climb steadily for 1–3 minutes. Push as hard is to carry water in gallon containers or collapsible jugs, so you as you can going up, then recover coming down, and repeat can dump water at the top as needed, to lighten the load for the for anywhere from 20–60 minutes depending on how close to descent. your climb you are. Gradually add weight to your pack (no more than 10% per week) until you can carry 60 lbs. the entire time. If In early season, you should be comfortable gaining 2000 ft. in possible, participate in as many hikes at altitude ­— and in winter elevation over 5–7 miles round trip, with a 30–40 lb. pack; each conditions — as you possibly can to learn how your body reacts in hike try adding 3–5 pounds until you are comfortable with a 55 lb. extreme cold and above 13,000 ft. elevation. pack, then begin increasing the total elevation gain and mileage. When you can gain 4,000 feet while carrying a 60 lb. pack, start decreasing rest breaks and increasing speed on each conditioning Strength Conditioning workout. A month from your climb, you should be comfortable hiking on successive days with at least 60 lbs. on one of those Training with free weights, bands, a backpack, bodyweight outings. exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back and shoulders, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying your pack and using trekking poles effectively. The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending steep, hard-packed snow and ice slopes, and a great degree of strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips, especially during those segments when is extreme and adrenaline is high, such as going through the Khumbu Ice Fall area.

Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, climbing-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. Free weight-training requires that you balance the weights as you would your own body, weighted with a pack, in three-dimensional space. When starting any strength conditioning program, complete two full-body strength workouts a week for 45–60 minutes each, focusing on compound exercises such as squats, lunges, step-ups, dips, pull-ups, rows, dead lifts, bench presses, pushups, and overhead presses. Everest requires significant amount of upper body strength, through the Khumbu and on fixed lines.

In the beginning phase of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts; to that end, keep the weight light enough to concentrate on good form and complete 2 sets of each exercise for 8–10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength (generally lower reps 5–8 with heavier weight). 4–6 weeks before your climb, shift your training to focus on strength endurance (higher reps 10–15 with light weight) to turn the newly gained strength into greater strength endurance. Each training phase should vary the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest intervals. Regardless of training phase, always be sure you maintain proper form in order to prevent injury or strain.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 6 Cardiovascular Conditioning Putting It All Together

When embarking on a cardiovascular training program for a climb Roughly a month before your climb, you should be at the as strenuous as an 8000m , you should already be at the point conditioning level where you are comfortable hiking on starting out where you are regularly including 4–6 weekly aerobic consecutive weekend days, what is referred to as Back-to-Back sessions of sustained effort for at least an hour each. Include training. This involves hiking with your target climb pack weight spinal-loading aerobic training such as trail running, walking on (60 lbs.) on the first day for at least 3,000 ft. gain, and a somewhat an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or step mill training, lighter pack (40 lbs.) for greater mileage, elevation gain, or both on jogging, working on an elliptical machine, walking up and down the second day to simulate the back-to-back requirements of long hills, or participating in step aerobic classes. Reserve 1–2 days per days on your trip. This will not only be helpful physically but also week for pack endurance training (2–6 hours), 1–2 day per week prepare you psychologically for the challenge of repeat high-effort for high intensity intervals (30–60 minutes) and the other 1–2 per days without significant recovery days in between. A sample week week for general cardiovascular fitness (60–90 minutes). Get as of training a month prior to your climb might look like the chart much experience on all sorts of varied terrain as you can, including above, in an effort to help you build as much stamina as possible. (as strange as it sounds) walking in on rocks. Be sure to include a 5–10 minute warm-up at reduced intensity before Be sure to include at least one recovery day per week and listen working at your target heart rate for the day, and cool down with closely to your body. Take the final two weeks to taper or gradually 5–10 minutes of appropriate stretching. reduce intensity and volume of training so that by the time you leave for your trip you are packed, well-nourished, well-rested and physically and psychologically up to the challenge of a lifetime. Flexibility Conditioning You can find additional training resources at BodyResults.com: Be sure to include at least 5–10 minutes of targeted stretching • Training Articles following every workout, specifically for the hamstrings, glutes, • Training Books and DVDs hips, calves, lower back and quadriceps. If you have any areas of • Customized Online Specific Training concern early season, add emphasis to making sure you have normal range of motion about all your joints. This will become Special discounts are available for Alpine Ascents Customers at: even more important as you add weight and distance to your www.BodyResults.com/aai conditioners.

Weekly Workout Schedule

Type M Tu W Th F Sa Su

Hills, stair, high ramp, Clymbing Gym, Hike 8–10miles, Clymbing Gym, 60 lb pack, Interval Hike 10–12 miles, 40 70-90 minutes 50–60 lb pack, gain Climbing 1 hour (optional) level(short bursts lb pack, gain 4,000 ft. (optional) 3,000 ft. >85% Max HR)

Full body, 12–15 reps Full body, 8–10 reps Strength per set, 1 hour. per set, 45 min.

75–90 min. no 45–60 min. no pack 45 min. recovery level pack distance level tempo level (75–85% Cardio (<65% Max HR) (65–75% Max HR) Max HR)

As needed to prevent As needed to prevent 10–15 min. at the end 10–15 min. at the end 10–15 min. at the end 10–15 min. at the end Flexibility stiffness stiffness

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 7 Mountaineering Physiology

Hydration Hypothermia

Humans are mostly water. Our brain is cushioned by fluid, our Hypothermia occurs when body temperature drops to 95° F or joints are lubricated by fluid, our blood is 90% water, and every lower. It can develop whenever heat loss exceeds heat production biochemical reaction takes place in water. Exercise causes water and is common during the wind, rain and hail of summer as well loss through sweating, , and metabolism. When it is as the cold of winter. In order to prevent hypothermia it helps to warm we sweat to lose heat and when it is cold we lose water to understand the mechanisms of heat production and heat loss. moisten the cold air we breathe. Obviously maintaining enough water in our system is important, but how important? Heat Production

Our basal metabolic rate is a constant internal furnace. Dehydration Shivering produces heat at a rate 5 times greater than our metabolic rate. Dehydration is often overlooked as a cause of accidents, illness, and injury in the mountains. With just a 2% fluid deficit we How We Lose Heat experience mental deterioration, decreased group cooperation, vague discomfort, lack of energy and appetite, flushed skin, Conduction: Direct contact between a hot and cold object impatience, sleepiness, nausea, an increased pulse rate and a 25% Convection: Heat loss to moving air or water loss in efficiency. Radiation: Infrared or heat radiation passing to a cold object. Evaporation: Through sweating and breathing How much water should we drink to stay healthy? Probably more than we usually drink. 3 to 4 liters a day is the minimum, with Signs & Symptoms another liter added for cold or high altitude conditions. Thirst is a poor indicator, alerting us to the fluid deficit after we are already Mental: Apathy, lethargy, slow and improper response to cold, dehydrated and indicating we are satiated before we are fully deterioration in decision making ability, increased complaints, rehydrated. Urine color and volume are helpful indicators; darker, decreased group cooperation more concentrated urine is an indicator of dehydration. This is a Physical: Shivering, loss of fine motor skills progressing to later sign, appearing after our body has decided to conserve fluid. stumbling, clumsiness and falling

Fluids must be forced to maintain hydration in the mountains. Treatment & Prevention

Drink early, anticipating fluid loss throughout the day. Remove yourself from the cold, dry off, insulate, and hydrate with Drink often, preventing mental and physical deterioration. hot drinks and food. With what we know about heat loss, we Drink more than you think you need. should never fall victim to hypothermia.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Mountaineering Physiology 8 Altitude Illness

Oxygen diffuses from the alveoli in the lungs into the blood because the gas pressure is greater in the alveoli than in blood. At altitude, diminished air pressure reduces the pressure in the alveoli and decreases the amount of oxygen diffusing into the blood.

Factors that can affect the incidence and severity of altitude illness:

1. Rate of ascent 2. Altitude attained (especially sleeping altitude) 3. Length of exposure 4. Level of exertion 5. Hydration and diet 6. Inherent physiological susceptibility

Signs & Symptoms

AMS: headache, malaise, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, peripheral edema

Pulmonary Edema (fluid accumulation in the lungs): AMS, shortness of breath, fatigue, dry cough progressing to productive cough, increased heart rate and respiratory rate, rales (sounds of fluid in the lungs), ataxia.

Cerebral Edema (swelling of the brain): AMS, changes in level of consciousness, ataxia, severe lassitude, headache, vision disturbances, seizures, hallucinations, etc.

As blood flow declines, cooling can progress to freezing. The Prevention & Treatment fluid between cells freezes forming ice crystals that draw water out of the cells, dehydrating them. A second phase of damage Ascend slowly, climb high and sleep low, high carbohydrate diet, occurs during rewarming. Damaged cells release substances hydrate. If you experience the symptoms of altitude illness, the that promote constriction and clotting in small blood vessels, most effective treatment is todescend as soon as possible. impairing blood flow to the tissues. Frostnip, Superficial frostbite, and Deep frostbite correlate to 1st, 2nd and 3rd degree burns. Causes of frostbite include cold stress, low temperatures, wind chill, poor insulation, contact with supercooled metal or gasoline, interference with circulation; cramped position, tight clothing, local pressure, tight fitting or laced boots, and dehydration.

Immersion Foot

A local, non-freezing cold injury that occurs in cold, wet conditions usually in temperatures of 30 to 40° F. It can occur with only ten hours of exposure to these conditions. Dry socks and feet provide total protection. Rotate socks as needed. Dry out socks on your body and in your sleeping bag overnight, and always sleep with warm dry feet.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Mountaineering Physiology 9 Nepal Lexicon

Everest Terms Dharmsala: pilgrim’s rest house

Baato: trail Drangka: stream

Bhanjyang: pass Dzo or Dzokyo: male crossbreed between a yak and a cow

Bhatti: tea stalls found along the trekking trails GPS: Global Positioning System; a device that calculates opposition and elevation by reading and decoding signals from Chautaara: rock walls built as resting places for porters and satellites sherpa. These walls can usually be found near a banyan tree. Himal: snow mountain Chomolungma: Sherpa name for Mt. Everest. Chomolungma’s resident goddess is Miyo Lungsangma. She is the mother goddess Kaani: an arch over a trail, usually decorated with paintings of the . According to a religious story, five daughters of father Lhola Tebu and mother Menthang had five daughters. Tashi Kang: mountain Tseringma, the main one who resides on Gauri Shanker, gives long life; Miyo Lungsangma gives food; Tekar Dosangma gives good Khosi: river fortune; Chopen Dinsangma gives wealth and Thingi Shelsangma gives telepathic powers. Khumbu: region near . The runs down and below the southwest side of Everest. Home of the : deep fissure in snow or ice usually found in glaciers. Sherpa Climbers rope-up together and walk far apart in case one drops into a hidden crevasse, others on the rope may be able to stop the Kund: holy lake fall. Lekh: hill, or foothill ridge Cwm (koom): welsh term for a . The high, glaciated, southwest valley encircled by Everest, and was Lho: south named the by on a 1920 British Expedition. Maati baato: upper trail

Danda: ridge Nak: female yak

Deurali: pass on a ridge Nup: west

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Nepal Lexicon 10 Parbat: mountain Paisa: 1/100 of one Rupee

Phedi: literally ‘the place at the foot of the hill’ Rupee: unit of currency in Nepal.

Pokhari (or tal): lake Sidha: straight ahead (direction)

Ri: peak Sonam: good luck (Tibetan)

Sagarmatha: Nepalese name for Mt. Everest. “Churning stick in Tashi Delek: another common greeting the sea of existence.” Tibetan, Nepalese and Sherpa mythologies believe this mountain was the first land mass to rise from the sea. Tempo: three wheeled taxi similar to a rickshaw found throughout the streets in Kathmandu Shar: east Tonga: two-wheeled, horse-drawn cart Sherpa: “People from the East.” Both a tribal group and a job description of , climber or trek leader. Sherpas have been crucial to the success of most western expeditions to Everest. Religion

Sherpani: Female Sherpa. In 1993, was the Brahmin: a term used to indicate the priest class first Sherpani to ever summit Mt. Everest. Through her, fame and pride shone on the . : one of the principal religions of eastern and central Asia which stems from the teachings of Gautama Buddha. Its Sirdar: leader of trek crew tenets hold that suffering is inherent to life and only through purification of the self can one hope to diminish the degree of Ukaalo: steep uphill life’s suffering.

Yak: animals used to help carry loads in high altitude regions. On Dharma: good karma or actions used to generate good karma. an Everest expedition, each yak carries 140 pound of supplies. Gompa: a Buddhist temple. Gompas are found all over the Nepal Yeti: the abominable snowman living amidst the . countryside. can be found populating many contemporary tankas. Guru Rinpoche: founder of 1250 years ago. Jutho: ritual pollution. Once you have eaten food from a plate it Daily Life is jutho and no one may eat the remaining food. A dead body is considered to contain jutho and may not be touched by a Sherpa. Baayaan: left (direction) Karma: spiritual force generated by a person’s actions Baksheesh: money or goods used as a donation, gift, or bribe. Kata: white scarf presented as a sign of honor. These may be Banthanti: the place in the forest blessed and become sacred relics.

Charpi: latrine Lama: Tibetan Buddhist teacher or priest

Daahine: right (direction) Mani Rimdu: One of the holiest festivals for the Sherpa, Mani Rimdu celebrates the completion of ten days of prayers for the Dokan: shop benefit of all beings dedicated to Pawa Cherenzig, the god of compassion. Marked by dances from all over the region, the Doko: porter’s conical load:carrying basket festival dancers wear various masks which depict different gods. The Sherpa believe that for each god, there are different forms of Ghar (or khangba): house worship, chants or movements that help bring that god closer to the dancer and eventually become a part of him which is Jaat: caste or ethnic group considered to benefit all people. Some believe that prayers, deep thinking, or meditation can be done to achieve the same harmony Namaste: common greeting. Literally, “I salute the god in you.” and make people more peaceful.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Nepal Lexicon 11 Mani wall: stone wall carved with Buddhist mantras Dudh: milk

Mantra: religious incantation Khaana: food

Miyo Lungsangma: goddess of humans residing on Mt. Everest Maasu: meat

Prayer Flag: long strips of colored cloth printed with prayers Momo: steamed or fried pork dumplings that are “said” whenever the flag flaps in the wind. Prayer flags are located along the trekking and climbing routes and are used by Nun: salt the Sherpa to decorate and bless their homes, school, gompas, etc. Paani: water

Puja (pooja): prayers offered. It is also the act of praying or Phul: egg chanting and offering gifts to the gods. Before any climb of Mt. Everest a large puja is performed asking the gods for protection Rakshi: a spirit distilled from rice, potato or grain and permission to climb within their . The puja will last several hours and each member will smear a little tso on their face Roti: bread in respect. Satu: flour Rinpoche: reincarnate lama. title for high lamas and reincarnates, “precious one”. Suntala: orange (fruit)

Stupa: a Buddhist shrine Taato paani: hot water

Tanka: embroidered or painted elaborately colored wall hanging. Thukpa: noodles, often served in soup Usually tankas depict scenes from the life of the deities. They are magnificently ornate and rich with symbolism. Tsampa: parched barley flour, a staple food of Tibetans

Trisul: trident symbol of follower’s of Shiva Umaleko paani: boiled water

Tso: offerings made of cooked rice. May be smeared across the forehead and on the face and neck as a symbol of respect and homage to the gods.

Food & Beverages

Chappati: flat bread made of flour. Another staple sometimes used in place of rice.

Chang: home-brewed rice or more traditionally barley beer. Chang is traditionally drunk by the participants during the puja before of Mt. Everest.

Chini: sugar

Chiso paani: cold water

Chai: tea

Dal Bhaat: lentil soup with rice. This is a staple of Nepalese food.

Dhai: yoghurt

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Nepal Lexicon 12