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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer
http://outsideonline.com/outside/destinations/199609/travel-pf-199609_into_thin_air_1-sidWCMDEV_049618.html Go OCT FEB MAR � ⍰ ❎ 45 captures 18 f � 29 Aug 2010 - 4 Mar 2019 2010 2011 2012 ▾ About this capture Outside Magazine September 1996 True Everest Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer Everest deals with trespassers harshly: the dead vanish beneath the snows. While the living struggle to explain what happened. And why. A survivor of the mountain's worst disaster examines the business of Mount Everest and the steep price of ambition. By Jon Krakauer Straddling the top of the world, one foot in Tibet and the other in Nepal, I cleared the ice from my oxygen mask, hunched a shoulder against the wind, and stared absently at the vast sweep of earth below. I understood on some dim, detached level that it was a spectacular sight. I'd been fantasizing about this moment, and the release of emotion that would accompany it, for many months. But now that I was finally here, standing on the summit of Mount Everest, I just couldn't summon the energy to care. It was the afternoon of May 10. I hadn't slept in 57 hours. The only food I'd been able to force down over the preceding three days was a bowl of Ramen soup and a handful of peanut M&M;'s. Weeks of violent coughing had left me with two separated ribs, making it excruciatingly painful to breathe. Twenty-nine thousand twenty-eight feet up in the troposphere, there was so little oxygen reaching my brain that my mental capacity was that of a slow child. -
Alicia Jewett Master's Thesis
“Before the practice, mountains are mountains, during the practice, mountains are not mountains, and after the realization, mountains are mountains” – Zen Master Seigen University of Alberta Metaphor and Ecocriticism in Jon Krakauer’s Mountaineering Texts by Alicia Aulda Jewett A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Research in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Comparative Literature Office of Interdisciplinary Studies ©Alicia Aulda Jewett Fall 2012 Edmonton, Alberta Permission is hereby granted to the University of Alberta Libraries to reproduce single copies of this thesis and to lend or sell such copies for private, scholarly or scientific research purposes only. Where the thesis is converted to, or otherwise made available in digital form, the University of Alberta will advise potential users of the thesis of these terms. The author reserves all other publication and other rights in association with the copyright in the thesis and, except as herein before provided, neither the thesis nor any substantial portion thereof may be printed or otherwise reproduced in any material form whatsoever without the author's prior written permission. Abstract This study examines Jon Krakauer’s three mountaineering texts, Eiger Dreams, Into the Wild, and Into Thin Air, from an ecocritical perspective for the purpose of implicating literature as a catalyst of change for the current environmental crisis. Language, as a means of understanding reality, is responsible for creating and reinforcing ethical ways of understanding our relationship with nature. Krakauer’s texts demonstrate the dangers of using metaphor to conceive nature by reconstructing the events of Chris McCandless’ journey to Alaska, his own experience climbing The Devil’s Thumb, and the 1996 disaster that occurred during his summit of Mount Everest. -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (From Wikipedia)
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (from Wikipedia) Everest is a 2015 survival film directed by Baltasar Kormákur and written by William Nicholson and Simon Beaufoy. The film stars are Jason Clarke, Josh Brolin, John Hawkes, Robin Wright, Michael Kelly, Sam Worthington, Keira Knightley, Emily Watson, and Jake Gyllenhaal. The film opened the 72nd Venice International Film Festival on September 2, 2015, and was released theatrically on September 18, 2015. It is based on the real events of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, and focuses on the survival attempts of two expedition groups, one led by Rob Hall (Jason Clarke) and the other by Scott Fischer (Jake Gyllenhaal). Survival films The survival film is a film genre in which one or more characters make an effort at physical survival. It often overlaps with other film genres. It is a subgenre of the adventure film, along with swashbuckler films (film di cappa e spada – like Zorro or Robin Hood), war films, and safari films. Survival films are darker than most other adventure films which usually focuses its storyline on a single character, usually the protagonist. The films tend to be "located primarily in a contemporary context" so film audiences are familiar with the setting, meaning the characters' activities are less romanticized. Thomas Sobchack compared the survival film to romance: "They both emphasize the heroic triumph over obstacles which threaten social order and the reaffirmation of predominant social values such as fair play and respect for merit and cooperation." [2] The author said survival films "identify and isolate a microcosm of society", such as the surviving group from the plane crash in The Flight of the Phoenix (1965) or those on the overturned ocean liner in The Poseidon Adventure (1972). -
Nuptse 7,861M / 25,790Ft
NUPTSE 7,861M / 25,790FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES NUPTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to May 20, 2022 Duration: 42 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$38,900 per person Crossing ladders in the Khumbu Glacier. Photo: Charley Mace. During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Nuptse, a peak just shy of 8,000m that sits adjacent to the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest, and the world’s fourth highest mountain, Mount Lhotse. Sitting as it does, in the shadows of its more famous partners, Nuptse receives a relatively low number of EXPEDITION OUTLINE ascents. Nuptse’s climbing route follows the same We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, line of ascent as Everest as far as Camp 2, from where we meet for a team briefing, gear checks where we cross the Western Cwm to establish a and last-minute purchases before flying by fixed Camp 3 on Nuptse. From that position, we ascend wing into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley. We directly up the steep North East Face and into trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa Nuptse’s summit. The terrain involves hard ice, homelands via the Khumbu Valley Along the way, sometimes weaving through rocky areas and later we enjoy Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with lower angled snow slopes. good food, all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the The Nuptse climb will be operated alongside the lower Khumbu. Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition and therefore will enjoy the associated infrastructure We trek over the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), a and legendary Base Camp support. -
Into Thin Air Liberty Review.Pages
Olentangy Local School District Literature Selection Review Teacher: Freshman Literature teachers School: Liberty High School Book Title: Into Thin Air Genre: Non-Fiction Memoir Author: Jon Krakauer Pages: 333 Publisher: Anchor Books/Random House Copyright: 1997 In a brief rationale, please provide the following information relative to the book you would like added to the school’s book collection for classroom use. You may attach additional pages as needed. Book Summary and summary citation: (suggested resources include book flap summaries, review summaries from publisher, book vendors, etc.) When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, 1996, he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29,028 feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3,000 feet lower, in 70-knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning, he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were desperately struggling for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Into Thin Air is the definitive account of the deadliest season in the history of Everest by the acclaimed journalist and author of the bestseller Into the Wild. -
Into Thin Air
Before You from Into Thin Air Literary Focus Make the Connection Ironies and Contradictions That Quickwrite ~ Spell Real-Life Disaster Can you imagine yourself standing on the In this true story of climbers struggling on 29,035-foot top of the world? The cold has Mount Everest, Murphy's law seems to numbed your body, the altitude has dulled have taken hold: "If there's a possibility your brain, and you are exhausted beyond that something can go wrong, it will." As belief. Now you have to get down-the you read, look for examples of situa most dangerous part of the climb. tional irony-when the opposite of Jon Krakauer, the author of this maga what's expected or appropriate occurs. zine article, lived through that experience. Look also for the real-life contradic Why do you think some people, like tions and incongruities that lead to dis Krakauer, are so drawn to climbing moun aster-instances in which people don't do tains? Would you like to do it? Briefly jot what they say they will do or when things down why you would or wouldn't. don't come together as they should. For example, expedition leader Rob Hall con tradicts his own rule of an absolute cutoff Vocabulary Development time for reaching the summit. These and deteriorate (de-tir'e ·a· rat') v.: worsen. other fateful twists combine to spell innocuous (i . nak'yoo-as) adj.: harmless. tragedy for the cl imbers. notorious (no -t6r'e-as) adj.: famous, usually in an unfavorable sense. Reading Skills ~ Understanding Cause and Effect benign (bi . -
PDF Download the Climb Tragic Ambitions on Everest 1St Edition
THE CLIMB TRAGIC AMBITIONS ON EVEREST 1ST EDITION PDF, EPUB, EBOOK Anatoli Boukreev | 9780312206376 | | | | | The Climb Tragic Ambitions on Everest 1st edition PDF Book The logistics of the expedition were also far from optimal - they only had barely enough oxygen for all the people on the mountain, and the plan to fix lines to the summit was never acted upon. Note how many stars it was given. As for Boukreev's decision not to use oxygen and the descent ahead of the clients, I frankly can not make up my mind as there are too many variables. Both obviously paid for their oversights with their lives. He was unfairly and unjustly criticized by other authors seeking to find a villian that day. As well as Lene Gammelgaard who was in the Mountain Madness expidition with Anatoli also wrote a book. View 1 comment. This specific ISBN edition is currently not available. On the day of the summit attempt, he sent Boukreev and his other guide Neal Beidleman up the Mountain at the head of their team, while Fischer himself would sweep at the rear. Revised Edition Paperbacks Books. Any Condition Any Condition. However, I do not feel that because Krakauer spent the night sleeping in his tent, he doesn't have a right to critique Boukreev. This item doesn't belong on this page. About this product Product Information Everest , the major motion picture from Universal Pictures, is set for wide release on September 18, Is it all about the cash? This book by G. St Martin's Pr, Show More Show Less. -
After Thin Air
After Thin Air The legacy of the 1996 Mount Everest tragedy by Michael Chessler ou already know the names of the mountain and the climbers. Climbing mania like this Yhad never happened before. It started with what was supposed to be a routine guided ascent of the highest peak trod by man. The peak had first been climbed a half century before and the public knew only the names of the first two men to climb it. It came as a surprise to the nation that climbers were risking their lives and the lives of their guides while spending great sums of money to climb this peak. And then a sensational magazine article of the ascent led to a best-selling book. Soon everyone wanted to see and hear the author in person. The lectures seemed to go on forever, the media loved it and the multitude of related books became a publisher’s dream come true. Soon everybody was talking about the famed expedition. Climbers and non-climbers alike debated the ethics and propriety of guided mountaineering. The author was thrust into a posi tion as the leading authority on the subject, and everyone was moved by his book and lec tures. He became rich from royalties, and his name will be forever associated with the peak he climbed but once. He is indelibly a part of mountaineering history and literature. Oh! Did you think I was talking about Jon Krakauer, Into Thin A ir and Mount Everest? Heavens, no! I was talking about Albert Smith, The Story of Mont Blanc, and the Mont Blanc mania of the 1850s! Mountaineering, with its media extravaganzas and celebrities, triumphs and tragedies, rule makers and rule breakers, best-selling books and wannabe rebuttals, has been around since the sport was introduced on Mont Blanc by J. -
Lhotse 8,516M / 27,939Ft
LHOTSE 8,516M / 27,939FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES LHOTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to June 3, 2022 Duration: 56 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$35,000 per person On the summit of Lhotse Photo: Guy Cotter During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Lhotse, the world’s 4th highest mountain. Lhotse sits alongside and in the shadow of its more famous partner, Mount Everest, which is possibly THE ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS why it receives a relatively low number of ascents. Lhotse’s climbing route follows the same line LHOTSE TEAM of ascent as Everest to just below the South Col LOGISTICS where we break right to continue up the Lhotse Face and into Lhotse’s summit couloir. The narrow With technology constantly evolving, Adventure couloir snakes for 600m/2,000ft, all the way to the Consultants have kept abreast of all the new lofty summit. techniques and equipment advancements which encompass the latest in weather The climb will be operated alongside the Adventure forecasting facilities, equipment innovations and Consultants Everest team and therefore will enjoy communications systems. the associated infrastructure and legendary Base Camp support. Adventure Consultants expedition staff, along with the operations and logistics team at the head Lhotse is a moderately difficult mountain due to office in New Zealand, provide the highest level of its very high altitude; however, the climbing is backup and support to the climbing team in order sustained and never too complicated or difficult. to run a flawless expedition. This is coupled with It is a perfect peak for those who want to climb at a very strong expedition guiding team and Sherpa over 8,000m in a premier location! contingent who are the most competent and experienced in the industry. -
Lhotse – 8516M
Lhotse – 8516m The 4th highest mountain in the world Ascent of Lobuche East to minimise the travel through the Khumbu Icefall Via the Western Cwm, Lhotse Face & Lhotse Couloir EXPEDITION OVERVIEW First climbed by Swiss climber Ernest Reiss in 1956, to this day Lhotse (Tibetan for “South Peak”) has only received just over 600 ascents compared to Everest’s several thousand. Why not join Adventure Peaks in climbing one of the most spectacular and dominating 8000m giants. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has over twenty years’ experience organising and leading high altitude expeditions, including 8000m peaks. He is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has climbed Broad Peak, has led successful expeditions to Cho Oyu and to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.