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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer
http://outsideonline.com/outside/destinations/199609/travel-pf-199609_into_thin_air_1-sidWCMDEV_049618.html Go OCT FEB MAR � ⍰ ❎ 45 captures 18 f � 29 Aug 2010 - 4 Mar 2019 2010 2011 2012 ▾ About this capture Outside Magazine September 1996 True Everest Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer Everest deals with trespassers harshly: the dead vanish beneath the snows. While the living struggle to explain what happened. And why. A survivor of the mountain's worst disaster examines the business of Mount Everest and the steep price of ambition. By Jon Krakauer Straddling the top of the world, one foot in Tibet and the other in Nepal, I cleared the ice from my oxygen mask, hunched a shoulder against the wind, and stared absently at the vast sweep of earth below. I understood on some dim, detached level that it was a spectacular sight. I'd been fantasizing about this moment, and the release of emotion that would accompany it, for many months. But now that I was finally here, standing on the summit of Mount Everest, I just couldn't summon the energy to care. It was the afternoon of May 10. I hadn't slept in 57 hours. The only food I'd been able to force down over the preceding three days was a bowl of Ramen soup and a handful of peanut M&M;'s. Weeks of violent coughing had left me with two separated ribs, making it excruciatingly painful to breathe. Twenty-nine thousand twenty-eight feet up in the troposphere, there was so little oxygen reaching my brain that my mental capacity was that of a slow child. -
Into Thin Air”
ENGLISH TEXT SUMMARY NOTES “Into Thin Air” Text guide by: Anna Purcell TSSM 2009 Page 1 of 47 Copyright © TSSM 2009 TSSM ACN 099 422 670 ABN 54 099 422 670 A: Level 14, 474 Flinders Street Melbourne VIC 3000 T: 1300 134 518 F: 03 97084354 W: tssm.com.au E: [email protected] TSSM 2009 Page 2 of 47 CONTENTS Area of Study Chapter Topics Chapter 1 – Author Notes Chapter 2 – Historical Context 3.1 Title Chapter 3 – Genre 3.2 Audience 3.3 Purpose 4.1 Chronology 4.2 Plot Chapter 4 – Structure 4.3 Complications 4.4 Rising Action 4.5 Climax 4.6 Resolution 5.1 Orientation 5.2 Impartiality Chapter 5 – Style 5.3 Writing Style 5.4 Pathos 5.5 States of Mind 5.6 Symbols Area of Study 1 – Chapter 6 – Setting Reading and Responding Chapter 7 – Plot Summary 8.1 Major Characters 8.1.1 Rob Hall 8.1.2 Jon Krakauer 8.1.3 Scott Fischer 8.1.4 Anatoli Boukreev 8.1.5 Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa 8.1.6 Neal Beidleman Chapter 8 – Character Profiles 8.1.7 Andy ‘Harold’ Harris 8.2 Minor Characters 8.2.1 Beck Weathers 8.2.2 Doug Hansen 8.2.3 Sandy Pittman 8.2.4 Makalu Gau 8.3 Relationships between characters 9.1 Suffering 9.2 Death and Mortality Chapter 9 – Themes and Issues 9.3 Hubris 9.4 The Spirit World and the Mountain TSSM 2009 Page 3 of 47 9.5 Teamwork and Solitude 9.6 Survival 9.7 Commercialism 9.8 Nature 9.9 Goals and Dreams Chapter 10 – Important Quotes Chapter 11 – Sample Essay Topics Chapter 12 – Final Examination Advice 13.1 References Used Chapter 13 – References 13.2 References for Students TSSM 2009 Page 4 of 47 AREA 1: READING AND RESPONDING Chapter 1 AUTHOR NOTES Jon Krakauer is a journalist who is himself an avid climber, though he would not consider himself to be a professional climber at all. -
Everest – South Col Route – 8848M the Highest Mountain in the World South Col Route from Nepal
Everest – South Col Route – 8848m The highest mountain in the world South Col Route from Nepal EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Join Adventure Peaks on their twelfth Mt Everest Expedition to the world’s highest mountain at 8848m (29,035ft). Our experience is amongst the best in the world, combined with a very high success rate. An ultimate objective in many climbers’ minds, the allure of the world’s highest summit provides a most compelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, we aim to provide a way. Director of Adventure Peaks Dave Pritt, an Everest summiteer, has a decade of experience on Everest and he is supported by Stu Peacock, a regular and very talented high altitude mountaineer who has led successful expeditions to both sides of Everest as well as becoming the first Britt to summit Everest three times on the North Side. The expedition is a professionally-led, non-guided expedition. We say non-guided because our leader and Sherpa team working with you will not be able to protect your every move and you must therefore be prepared to move between camps unsupervised. You will have an experienced leader who has previous experience of climbing at extreme high altitude together with the support of our very experienced Sherpa team, thus increasing your chance of success. Participation Statement Adventure Peaks recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Adventure Travel – Accuracy of Itinerary Although it is our intention to operate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. -
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (From Wikipedia)
EVEREST – Film at CONCA VERDE on 11.01.16 – Talk by Peter Anderson (from Wikipedia) Everest is a 2015 survival film directed by Baltasar Kormákur and written by William Nicholson and Simon Beaufoy. The film stars are Jason Clarke, Josh Brolin, John Hawkes, Robin Wright, Michael Kelly, Sam Worthington, Keira Knightley, Emily Watson, and Jake Gyllenhaal. The film opened the 72nd Venice International Film Festival on September 2, 2015, and was released theatrically on September 18, 2015. It is based on the real events of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, and focuses on the survival attempts of two expedition groups, one led by Rob Hall (Jason Clarke) and the other by Scott Fischer (Jake Gyllenhaal). Survival films The survival film is a film genre in which one or more characters make an effort at physical survival. It often overlaps with other film genres. It is a subgenre of the adventure film, along with swashbuckler films (film di cappa e spada – like Zorro or Robin Hood), war films, and safari films. Survival films are darker than most other adventure films which usually focuses its storyline on a single character, usually the protagonist. The films tend to be "located primarily in a contemporary context" so film audiences are familiar with the setting, meaning the characters' activities are less romanticized. Thomas Sobchack compared the survival film to romance: "They both emphasize the heroic triumph over obstacles which threaten social order and the reaffirmation of predominant social values such as fair play and respect for merit and cooperation." [2] The author said survival films "identify and isolate a microcosm of society", such as the surviving group from the plane crash in The Flight of the Phoenix (1965) or those on the overturned ocean liner in The Poseidon Adventure (1972). -
Nuptse 7,861M / 25,790Ft
NUPTSE 7,861M / 25,790FT 2022 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES NUPTSE EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES 2022 EXPEDITION DETAILS Dates: April 9 to May 20, 2022 Duration: 42 days Departure: ex Kathmandu, Nepal Price: US$38,900 per person Crossing ladders in the Khumbu Glacier. Photo: Charley Mace. During the spring season of 2022, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb Nuptse, a peak just shy of 8,000m that sits adjacent to the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest, and the world’s fourth highest mountain, Mount Lhotse. Sitting as it does, in the shadows of its more famous partners, Nuptse receives a relatively low number of EXPEDITION OUTLINE ascents. Nuptse’s climbing route follows the same We congregate in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, line of ascent as Everest as far as Camp 2, from where we meet for a team briefing, gear checks where we cross the Western Cwm to establish a and last-minute purchases before flying by fixed Camp 3 on Nuptse. From that position, we ascend wing into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley. We directly up the steep North East Face and into trek the delightful approach through the Sherpa Nuptse’s summit. The terrain involves hard ice, homelands via the Khumbu Valley Along the way, sometimes weaving through rocky areas and later we enjoy Sherpa hospitality in modern lodges with lower angled snow slopes. good food, all the while being impressed by the spectacular scenery of the incredible peaks of the The Nuptse climb will be operated alongside the lower Khumbu. Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition and therefore will enjoy the associated infrastructure We trek over the Kongma La (5,535m/18,159ft), a and legendary Base Camp support. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
Student Reading & Discussion Guide
Student Reading & Discussion Guide Common Reading Program 2015 Pacific Lutheran University Featuring: Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer As you read Into Thin Air this summer, we encourage you to use this reading guide to assist you in thinking deeply and critically about the book. While you will not turn in your responses, it will be an important tool to help you prepare for the small group discussion you will have with a faculty member and your peers. To be prepared and organized for the small group discussion you should make notes of items of particular interest to you, including page numbers so that you can easily locate information to support your claim/opinion during the discussion. Theme: Audience & Style of Writing Background Jon Krakauer traveled to Mt. Everest in the spring of 1996 on assignment for Outside magazine. As a journalist and author with a mountain climbing background, Krakauer seemed a natural choice for the assignment. As Krakauer notes, the events that unfolded “left me badly shaken” (XV) and compelled him to write Into Thin Air just months after tragedy, in November 1996. Questions to consider Is Krakauer clear about who he is writing his account for? Who does he say it is for? Does his writing style -- his word choice, his vocabulary, his fast-paced storytelling -- match up with his intended audience? Why might he have chosen to write the story the way he did, and how does the way he chose to present it affect you as a reader? How might the story Krakauer told have been different if he had waited longer to write it? Notes Theme: Body, Self, & Others Background Into Thin Air contains numerous references to the physical demands placed on individuals attempting to summit Mt. -
Into Thin Air Pre-Reading Packet Name
Into Thin Air Pre-reading packet Name: VOCABULARY Define the following words: Catharsis: Commercialization: Tragedy: Hypoxia: Socialite: Foreshadowing: Incompetent: Acclimatization: Surrogate: Apprehension: Into Thin Air Individual Research Answer the following questions in YOUR OWN WORDS in complete sentences. 1: SHERPAS Who are the Sherpas? Where do they live? What are some of their tasks in relation to helping climbers on Mt. Everest? (Describe at least 4) 1. 2. 3. 4. 2: ALTITUDE Describe the following, including the symptoms of each, and list the altitudes at which they may occur: Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema): HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema): 3: EQUIPMENT Research and find 4 different pieces of eQuipment used for high altitude mountain climbing. Describe what it is and how it is used. 4: MOUNT EVEREST What mountain range includes Mt. Everest? How high is Everest? In what two countries is Everest located? Who first summited Everest and in what year? What is the climate like on Mt. Everest? 5. JON KRAKAUER Describe at least 4 facts about him that pertain to mountain climbing. 1. 2. 3. 4. 1996 Everest Climb New Zealand team American team Adventure Consultant Mountain Madness ROB HALL SCOTT FISCHER team leader team leader GUIDES CLIENTS GUIDES CLIENTS Andy Harris John Krakauer Anatoli Boukreev Tim Madsen -journalist -Russian Mike Groom Doug Hansen Neal Beidleman Charlotte Fox -postal worker -USA Ang Dorje Dr. Beck Weathers Lobsang Jangbu Sandy Pittman -Sherpa -doctor -Sherpa -socialite Tensing Yasuko Namba -Sherpa -Japanese Fedex Dr. Stuart Hutchinson South African Team Taiwanese Team IAN WOODALL MAKALU Team leader Team leader . -
Lear Ning Objectives
6 TEAM SELF-LEADERSHIP Sharing the Journey When spiderwebs unite, they can tie up a lion. Lear ning —Ethiopian proverb distributeObjectives After studying this chapter, you If we were to end the book at this point, we would be short- should be able to do the following: changing you.1 You might decide to return the book to youror bookstore and ask for your money back. The good news is that 1. Explain why there is more to conquer. team members Up to this chapter, our discussion on self-leadership has accomplish more focused on you as an individual. We understand, however, that together than they much of the work you do on a daily basis is not done by you can as individuals. alone. We realize that to accomplish manypost, of your goals, you 2. Describe how team need to work with other people. A large majority of the work self-leadership is today in schools and businesses is done by teams of people as the application opposed to separate individuals. of mental and The use of teams—self-directed teams, self-managing behavioral self- teams, and high-performance teams—is a work design innova- leadership strategies tion that has swept across the country and the rest of the world at the team level. over the past few decades.copy, This fact of business life continues 3. Demonstrate to gain in popularity, as estimates suggest that 80 to 90 percent behavioral team of all North American organizations have at least some type of self-leadership self-managed teams.2 Thus, chances are good that right now not practices you are a member of a team—as a student in a university, as within a team, an employee in an organization, or even as part of a personal including team relationship (e.g., boyfriend, girlfriend, husband, wife). -
Cairngorm Club Library List Oct2020 Edited Kjt30oct2020
Cairngorm Club Library Holding Re-Catalogued at Kings College Special Collections October 2020 To find current Library reference data, availability, etc., search title, author, etc. in the University Catalogue: see www.abdn.ac.uk/library Type / Creator / Imprint title Johnson, Samuel, (London : Strahan & Cadell, 1775.) A journey to the Western Islands of Scotland. Taylor, George, (London : the authors, 1776) Taylor and Skinner's survey and maps of the roads of North Britain or Scotland. Boswell, James, (London : Dilly, 1785.) The journal of a tour to the Hebrides, with Samuel Johnson, LL. D. / . Grant, Anne MacVicar, (Edinburgh : Grant, 1803) Poems on various subjects. Bristed, John. (London : Wallis, 1803.) A predestrian tour through part of the Highlands of Scotland, in 1801. Campbell, Alexander, (London : Vernor & Hood, 1804) The Grampians desolate : a poem. Grant, Anne MacVicar, (London : Longman, 1806.) Letters from the mountains; being the real correspondence of a lady between the years 1773 and Keith, George Skene, (Aberdeen : Brown, 1811.) A general view of the agriculture of Aberdeenshire. Robson, George Fennell. (London : The author, 1814) Scenery of the Grampian Mountains; illustrated by forty etchings in the soft ground. Hogg, James, (Edinburgh : Blackwood & Murray, 1819.) The Queen's wake : a legendary poem. Sketches of the character, manners, and present state of the Highlanders of Scotland : with details Stewart, David, (Edinburgh : Constable, 1822.) of the military service of the Highland regiments. The Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland, containing descriptions of their scenery and antiquities, with an account of the political history and ancient manners, and of the origin, Macculloch, John, (London : Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, language, agriculture, economy, music, present condition of the people, &c. -
Error Management on Everest
UvA-DARE (Digital Academic Repository) Putting errors to good use : error management culture in organizations van Dyck, C. Publication date 2000 Link to publication Citation for published version (APA): van Dyck, C. (2000). Putting errors to good use : error management culture in organizations. KLI. General rights It is not permitted to download or to forward/distribute the text or part of it without the consent of the author(s) and/or copyright holder(s), other than for strictly personal, individual use, unless the work is under an open content license (like Creative Commons). Disclaimer/Complaints regulations If you believe that digital publication of certain material infringes any of your rights or (privacy) interests, please let the Library know, stating your reasons. In case of a legitimate complaint, the Library will make the material inaccessible and/or remove it from the website. Please Ask the Library: https://uba.uva.nl/en/contact, or a letter to: Library of the University of Amsterdam, Secretariat, Singel 425, 1012 WP Amsterdam, The Netherlands. You will be contacted as soon as possible. UvA-DARE is a service provided by the library of the University of Amsterdam (https://dare.uva.nl) Download date:01 Oct 2021 1 1 Introduction:: Error management on Everest Reprintedd from Boukreev & De Walt (1996) with permission of St. Martin's Press. "[...]"[...] I know the mountain [Everest] is an environment so extreme therethere is no room for mistakes. " (Cahill, 1997, p. 245-246). 2 2 ChapterChapter 1 Thiss dissertation reports on research into organizational error culture. That is, the wayy organizations deal with errors, the approaches the organizational members have towardss errors, and which of those behaviors are encouraged or discouraged by the organization.