WIRED MAD, ILL-EQUIPPED AND ADMIRABLE: EVEREST 1962 I MAURICE ISSERMAN ust over a half century Jago, on May 8, 1962, four climbers stood atop a Himalayan icefall, watching the last of their Sherpa porters vanish amid the bright, thin air. For the next month, Woodrow Wilson Sayre, Norman Hansen, Roger Hart and Hans-Peter Duttle would be on their own. 88 T!" #$%%$&'() *$+('(), they’d set o, from a high camp to attempt the -rst ascent of Gyachung Kang, a mountain on the Nepalese- Tibetan border—or so Sayre had told the Nep- alese o.cials back in Kathmandu who granted him the permit. Had his American-Swiss party reached the summit of their announced objec- tive, it would have been an impressive coup, considering that none of them had climbed in the Himalaya before, and only two had ever reached an elevation of more than 20,000 feet. At 26,089 feet (7952m), Gyachung Kang fell just below the arbitrary 8000-meter altitude distinguishing other peaks as the pinnacle of mountaineering ambitions. But Gyachung Kang wouldn’t be climbed [Facing Page] Map of the 1962 team’s approach to Mt. Everest (8848m). Jeremy Collins l [This Page] Woodrow “Woody” Wilson until 1964. /e 1962 expedition had another Sayre on the Nup La. “We made three basic decisions in planning for Everest. We were going without permission, we were objective in mind, located about -fteen miles going without Sherpas, and we were going without oxygen,” Sayre wrote in Four Against Everest. Hans-Peter Duttle collection farther east as the gorak (the Himalayan crow) 0ies. Once the climbers were out of sight of Looking back from the perspective of -fty which served as the gatekeepers of mountain- their liaison o.cer, they headed instead for years, he is struck by how close their little, eering craft, values and lore. Unlike today, Mt. Everest. /eir lack of a Nepalese permit ill-prepared expedition came to realizing its potential members couldn’t simply -ll out for that peak was an irrelevant detail. Instead improbable goal. a form and send in a year’s dues to join the of climbing the Southeast Ridge, -rst ascended Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) or the by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in T!" %"12"+ $# 3!'4 +"(")12" 51(2 came American Alpine Club (AAC). /ey had to 1953, they intended to try the Tibetan (aka from a distinguished American political be nominated by current members, submit a Chinese Communist) North Face. In those family. Sayre was the grandson of the Ameri- climbing resumé and win the approval of a dark days of Cold War hostility, it was, of can president for whom he was named, and membership committee (which often rejected course, completely out of the question for the son of a former US ambassador to the applicants insu.ciently pro-cient, creden- Americans to approach Everest from that side. United Nations. An Army Air Force World tialed or connected). When the four men returned to tell their War II veteran and a Harvard PhD, he’d taught In 1954 Sayre and Hansen applied to go tale, they were denounced by prominent philosophy at Tufts University since 1957. on a winter AMC outing to New Hampshire’s members of the American climbing establish- Despite his impeccable connections, he was a 6,288-foot Mt. Washington, hoping to pick ment for threatening the future of Himala- mis-t in the stu,y academic world. On one up the basics of rope, crampon and ice-axe yan mountaineering, the strategic interests of occasion, he surprised his students by entering use. /ey were turned down because they the Free World and the possibility of world his third-0oor classroom through the window, hadn’t gone on a required rock-climbing trip. peace. At the time, many regarded Sayre’s having scaled the building’s stone exterior. So Sayre and Hansen took themselves o, lightweight attempt as a travesty of climbing Such exploits, combined with his inattention to Alaska instead. /ere, they managed to ethics, a harebrained stunt by inexperienced to the publish-or-perish mantra, didn’t sit well climb Denali by its West Buttress, attaining alpinists who deserved to be shunned by with his staid colleagues, who in 1964 would the summit of North America’s highest peak, “genuine mountaineers.” vote to deny him tenure. But Sayre was also more than 14,000 feet higher than that of Mt. /ey are mostly gone to their graves now, a Romantic idealist, very much in the New Washington. It was a notable achievement for those reckless amateurs of 1962, although England tradition of Henry David /oreau. two novices, only three years after the route’s each one died from natural causes rather than “Society tends to make human relationships -rst ascent. Although the success of their only from climbing accidents. Sayre, the oldest super-cial; mountaineering deepens them,” major mountain expedition contributed to member, passed away in 2002, just after the he proclaimed. “[S]ociety imposes tighter and the partners’ self-con-dence, it added little fortieth anniversary of the climb, followed by tighter routines on us. Mountaineering relaxes to their stock of practical knowledge. “We Hansen in 2005, and Hart, the youngest, in them” (Four Against Everest, 1964). had not slipped or fallen,” Sayre admitted. 2011. /e sole survivor is Hans-Peter Duttle. Sayre hatched the Mt. Everest scheme “We thus had no occasion to learn the rope In the years after his Everest adventure, he in the early 1950s with his friend Hansen, a techniques for stopping oneself”—a skill, as worked as an educator among the Inuit in the Boston attorney. During that era, very few it turned out, that would have come in handy Canadian Arctic, and then as a development Americans climbed mountains in their own later on. expert in Bolivia, Peru, Nepal and Honduras. country, never mind in still di.cult-to-reach By instinct a loner, Sayre still had no desire Today, he lives in retirement near Bern, Swit- ranges like the Himalaya. Most of the nation’s (let alone the resumé) to be nominated for a zerland, where he remains an active climber top alpinists were well known to each other, group like the AAC. And without such a.li- and a member of the Swiss Alpine Club. associated with one or another exclusive clubs, ation, or much of a climbing record, neither 89 leaving a bust of Mao Zedong on the top, had relied on more than 200 support members for three summit climbers. (/eir ascent was still disputed at the time.) Not all mountain- eers approved of military-style operations. Both the 1953 American K2 expedition and the 1958 Gasherbrum I expedition had been relatively lightweight a,airs, carried out by tight-knit groups of friends. But the notion of four men, carrying their own supplies, cross- Sayre noted, “he was free and ing a high pass and many miles of glacier to he was healthy.” Both Hart the base of the world’s highest mountain, and Duttle expected they and then summiting it in alpine style, was a would serve chie0y as porters bold endeavor. In 1962 most knowledgeable once they crossed into Tibet, mountaineers would have called it impossible. leaving the high-altitude climbing to their elders. B6 #$$3, E7"+"43 lies twenty--ve miles to To prepare, the climbers the east of Gyachung Kang. Almost all of that steeped themselves in the liter- terrain is above 18,000 feet. To get into posi- ature of previous Everest expe- tion, Sayre’s party -rst had to trek from Kath- ditions. “I knew the climbers’ mandu to the village of Namche Bazar, a total he nor Hansen would ever have been chosen names and their exploits,” Sayre wrote, “their of 160 miles—good training, Sayre hoped, for to join a major American undertaking, such successes and their failures. I studied their the challenges to come. /ey hiked north for as the 1963 Everest expedition, then being guesses about what ought to be done ‘next another dozen miles to the foot of the Ngo organized by Norman Dyhrenfurth (a Swiss- time.’” In 1952, during an unsuccessful Jumbo Glacier. Over several days, aided by American mountaineer with extensive Hima- attempt on Cho Oyu, Edmund Hillary and porters, they hauled 480 pounds of supplies layan experience). /ey’d have to go on their George Lowe had slipped across the 19,400- to a camp high on the icefall, still within the own, which meant by subterfuge, since neither foot Nup La into Tibet to pay a sentimental limits of their o.cial government permit. On Nepal nor Maoist China would give them a visit to the old campsites of the 1920s British May 8, they bade their porters farewell, telling permit for Everest. Which didn’t bother Sayre. Everest expeditions. No one had yet repeated them they would be back at base camp in As he explained, he had a lifelong aversion to their feat: the danger of apprehension by a about thirty days. “busybody rules and regulations,” and an incli- Chinese Communist patrol was daunting, and Rather than heading north toward nation “to nullify them whenever possible.” the col itself presented a formidable obstacle. Gyachung Kang, the party turned east. /ey Seven years passed after their triumph on In his memoir, High Adventure, which Sayre faced a di.cult climb to reach the Nup La, Denali. Hansen turned thirty--ve and Sayre almost certainly read, Hillary devoted more but the descent proved surprisingly easy. As forty-two. “You know, Norm,” Sayre told his pages to the perilous crossing of the Nup La they entered Tibet, Sayre lifted “an imaginary friend in the autumn of 1961, “we’re getting than he did to his summit day on Everest the strand of barbed wire,” thrilled to think he old.