MEANINGFUL TRAVEL TIPS and tales African American Perspectives Table of Contents

A Note From GoAbroad...... 3 Our Contributors...... 4

Study Abroad

Studying Abroad While Black: the Good, the Bad, the Weird...... 5 Scholarships for African American Students...... 9 Don’t Take Our Word For It: Travel Program Testimonials...... 12 Study Abroad Beauty Tips for Black Girls...... 13

Teach Abroad

Tips for Teaching Your Black Culture in the ESL Classroom...... 17

Lessons Learned

The Lessons I Learned Learned Living in Europe...... 20 The Lessons I Learned Working In Africa...... 23 An Initiative to Make Travel More Inclusive Questions & Comments...... 26 Why We Created this Book for African American travelers Our Contributors A Note from GoAbroad Karl Gourgue discovered his love for travel early on. Now a junior at the Stern School of Business, he has taken his business studies to more than 25 coun- tries around the world. He has studied for semesters at NYU Prague and HEC Paris, and has completed internships in New York, Prague, and Shenzhen in fields ranging from education to manufacturing.

Kerry McLean is a human rights lawyer from the US. She has lived in countries in Asia, Africa and Europe, and traveled to more than 40 countries around the world.

Only about 5.6 percent of U.S. students studying abroad are African American. We want to change that. This guide is part of a push for inclusivity in travel and international education. Nathan Thadani is a Japanese, Indian, Black American from Oakland, CA. Accessibility is an issue for most students who want to study, intern, teach, or volunteer Growing up in the Bay Area, he was exposed to different cultures from a young abroad, but don’t have the resources to do so. Beyond just financial resources, if students can’t age which naturally sparked his interest in exploring and immersing himself see themselves in the stories, articles, and blog posts, written by alumni, going abroad won’t through out different parts of the world. seem like a viable option. In a field centered around diversity and cultural exchange, this is a shame. Our contributors, as members of the GoAbroad Diversity Squad, are sharing their personal stories and travel expertise in order to change that.

More and more, studying, interning, working, and teaching abroad is becoming somewhat of Alicia Harris is from Sacramento, California. She recently graduated with hon- a standard endeavor of college students and recent graduates; this guide was created to help ors from the illustrious and historic Alabama State University. Going to Argen- tina was her first time going abroad to work. After networking in Argentina, she ensure that African American students have all the resources they need to participate in these landed a job taking pictures of a famous clothing line called Ginebra. Before experiences safely, happily, and successfully. Everyone deserves the opportunity to travel, and heading off to Argentina, Alicia worked in play production, sports production at GoAbroad is dedicated to providing every African American student, and every student for that her university, and on multiple independent film projects. matter, with the tools, knowledge, and confidence they need to do so.

This is an open book (pun intended). It will continue to grow as we share more stories and add more voices. This could be you! Want to share your own travel tips and tales? Give us a shout!

Interested in joining this initiative? Partner with us!

GOABROAD.COM |3 GOABROAD.COM |4 THE GOOD “The fact is, people Dark skin is weird. Relatively, I mean. Asian are honestly curious Studying Abroad countries were probably the places where I stood out the most, but it was amazing to see how out of about things that place I could feel. That being said, reactions to my are different. When seemingly-unusual skin color were often positive. While Black: people approached The fact is, people are honestly curious about things me with that kind of that are different. When people approached me curious mindset, it the Good, the Bad, the Weird with that kind of curious mindset, it actually made a lot of things easier. I found myself easily striking actually made a lot by Karl Gorgue conversations with strangers (even if we didn’t of things easier.” speak the same language). Something about the physical appearance of being black makes people I looked him in the eye for a few seconds and he you meet want to understand you. They’re normally burst into a smile, waved, and then walked away. In January 2015, I got on a plane at JFK in New York and flew across to the ocean to Denmark. curious about things like your home and occupation, Little did I know this was the start of long summer For the next twelve consecutive months, I didn’t go more than three weeks without hopping but I found that people would be extra curious of strange behavior. I traveled to nearly a dozen around me. on a plane, train, or boat. I explored the corners of Europe from Greece to Iceland, Portugal cities in and couldn’t escape the onslaught of pictures and videos. After we got off a train in to Serbia. I ventured into Turkey and Ukraine and spent a week in the United Arab Emirates People in China were actually willing to pay money Guilin, a man put his ~5 year old daughter in my in between. I spent months working in and traveling through China. My journey was a bit to get pictures with me. While I decided against arms as I wasn’t looking. That guy probably has the unusual, but I never really considered myself anything other than a typical American student/ launching a career as a token black model, I was single most awkward photo of me ever taken. traveler looking to see what’s out there. able to leverage that power to make connections. Some guys I met at a conference in Finland told me Declining pictures in Chinese (“búyào”, which I looked a lot like James Harden and asked for a means “don’t want”) became a daily activity, It didn’t take long for me to realize that I’m unmistakably and unequivocally black. Living picture. If that’s not a great opportunity to network, often punctuated by vigorous head-shaking and out of the country long-term for the first time, I noticed distinct behavior that was unfamiliar I don’t know what is. Whether hanging out in clubs me walking away. The behavior was more than to me. I found myself nodding at random black strangers I’d never seen before (for more in Shenzhen or solo-exploring the parks of Istanbul, reasonable. If I saw someone with green skin on this, look up “The Nod,”, or “The Negro Nod,”, or “The Black Head Nod”). It was like an I took advantage of people approaching me to nab walking through New York’s East Village right freebies, personal recommendations, and new acknowledgement of ethnic solidarity. now, I’d be pretty shocked too. That being said, it friends. didn’t feel good being a black face in a differently- colored crowd. It felt at best annoying and at worst THE BAD In the U.S., black people are a strong minority. Anyone who grew up outside a predominately invasive. black community can tell you that. Traveling to other countries was, quite literally, a different I’m really into big cities. Some of my favorite world. Looking back,I never actually saw another black person in the following countries: memories in life are taking aimless walks about big It could be tough, too. Denmark, , Austria, Slovakia, Poland, Serbia, Italy, Ukraine, Turkey, Sweden, Finland. cities, just to disappear into the crowds and get lost. Some things were pretty serious - friends with From my home in Prague, I might’ve seen one other black traveler once a week at most. My On my first day walking around Shenzhen, I went to KK100 (the 14th tallest building in the world) and experience studying in Shanghai were advised ability to stick out in a crowd wasn’t the focal point of my trips, but it was definitely something couldn’t shake the feeling that this guy was staring to avoid skin products in China, as many of them that stuck out to me. at me. contained skin-whitening chemicals (that’s a hard “búyào” from me).

GOABROAD.COM |5 GOABROAD.COM |6 THE WEIRD

I got recruited for my office basketball team on my first day of work in China. I get James Harden “Expect nothing. Live frugally on surprise.” comparisons in a surprising number of countries. In - Alice Malsenior Walker Vietnam and Greece, I was offered drinks at a bar by other black travelers. Both times the person started with, “Hey, you’re black right?”

Honestly, sometimes being black creates bizarre moments. I have a friend who once got separated from our group because a few intoxicated American girls saw his skin, guessed that he was from the US too, and forced him to help them get home. These are the kind of moments I live for.

Travel is great because it’s weird. Climbing a mountain in a foreign country or going for a walk DISCOVERING MY OWN CULTURE THE BAD...CONTINUED on the streets of a famous city are cool, but they’re I feel like I’ve gone to significant lengths to understand the cultures around me without ever stopping to I actually only got one haircut in Paris during too typical. What’s unique about time you walked understand my own. I understand the links between our general American culture and its roots in Europe. my four month stay in because most of around London or Dubai? What makes travel great I can tell you a surprising amount about the strange politics of Hong Kong and mainland China, or the the barbers I talked to openly admitted to not is when it gets weird. You’re left with nothing but a political history of the Czech Republic. I talked to Israelis and Palestinians about the root of the conflict knowing how to cut afro hair. I would’ve asked memory that’s entirely your own. That memory is there, and I spoke with migrant workers in about why they’ve left home. I had late-night for a recommendation from a friend, but I don’t what inspires you to think deeply about the country conversations with Finnish entrepreneurs in Helsinki. I even once traveled to Ecuador to gained immense have any black friends that have ever lived in and its culture. appreciation for the relationship being built between indigenous and modern people. Paris and there weren’t many black students at my school (I actually never saw more than 5 in I know the NBA is big in China, but after my Despite all that, I couldn’t tell you much about why Nigeria’s population is increasing at a ridiculous rate. the student body of 4,000). coworkers recruited me we had a full conversation I’m not really sure what the connection is between black fashion in America and its roots in Africa. Why about how much basketball they watch. People is South Africa so good at rugby? I have no idea. The only thing I really learned about black culture is how While these things seem small, I think they’re approached me with Harden comparisons, but I was much I don’t know. incredibly isolating in totality. I had fun in able to use that to get to know them. Oftentimes

France for sure, but there were more than a few free drinks turn into new contacts and social media I don’t regret going to the places I’ve gone. It’s an incredible feeling talking to someone from a foreign moments where I felt more alone because I was connects. My Twitter and Snapchat feeds are full of country and being able to understand something about their culture. It’s not as great to reflect that you’re black. In Asian countries, it’s hard to understand friends from abroad indirectly exposing me to their as far from understanding your own roots as you were when you started. I feel incredibly confident in my (coming from the U.S./the West) why people go to culture. ability to understand others, but I question my own ability to understand my own ethnic background. such extreme lengths to keep their skin as white as possible. Given the lack of black travelers In the end, I think I came away with a better understanding of what black culture is and isn’t. After having as it is, a lot of these small things shape your to try and explain something that’s hard to understand in the first place,I realized that being black is perspective of the world. I remember China as having a culture within a culture. It’s a way of speaking, dancing, or just thinking. It’s more than just being the country where people stared at me too much, American, but it’s less than just being human. I spent a lot of time learning more about myself just from but because of that I see Vietnam and Taiwan as getting a better perspective of what I’m not. Maybe I’m black-er than I thought I was. places where people didn’t bother me.

Maybe I’m just a James Harden-esque figure traveling the world in search of a good haircut.

GOABROAD.COM |7 GOABROAD.COM |8 2 Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship Program Study Abroad Scholarships This scholarship is not only geared toward African-American students, but all students of limited financial means to pursue academic studies abroad. While most students from the U.S. end up choosing countries in Western Europe, Australia, and New Zealand for their study abroad destination, this scholarship encourages for African American Students students to choose more challenging locations. The Gilman scholarship program supports students who 5 traditionally have been underrepresented in study abroad, including, but not limited to, students with high financial need, community college students, students in underrepresented fields such as the sciences and by Nathan Thadani engineering, students with diverse ethnic backgrounds, and students with disabilities.

Award Amount: $5,000 1 The Fund for Education Abroad (FEA Scholarships) Application Deadline: Depends on when student chooses to go abroad Going overseas to an entirely new Eligibility Requirements: environment can be a daunting task no The Fund for Education Abroad (FEA Scholarships) was established in 2010 to help • U.S. citizen or permanent resident of the U.S matter what type of cultural background independent study abroad programs. Since then, • Good academic standing as undergraduate student (both four-year and two-year institutions are acceptable) a student is coming from, but especially they have sent roughly 100 students abroad from all over the United States. Applicants should be • Must receive a Federal Pell Grant during the term abroad as an African-American student, which as participating in an academically rigorous and • Must be in the process of applying to, or accepted for, a study abroad or internship program of at least two weeks for community college students and four weeks for students from four-year institutions, in a single an underrepresented group can be a nerve immersive study abroad program that ideally includes a language component. FEA offers country and eligible for credit from the student’s home institution wrecking experience at first thought. Dedicated Scholarships to applicants that meet general eligibility requirements and fit specific I remember when I first thought about demographic, regional, or semester criteria. 3 API Diversity Scholarship studying abroad back in my junior year of Award Amount: Up to $10,000 per year ($5,000 per college. I had always wanted to study abroad semester) API’s diversity scholarship seeks to support participants from a variety of backgrounds. It provides the opportunity for students with traditionally marginalized identities to study abroad. API awards up to $500,000 in Europe, but after discussing the finances Application Deadline: Cycle of applications to students annually ranging from $250-1,000 per student. Students are encouraged to apply for multiple required with my college advisor at the time, accepted annually in the fall, check their website API scholarships in addition to outside scholarships, however, in order to maximize the number of students for the most up-to-date info. receiving financial aid, API’s total contribution cannot exceed $1,000 per student (so read this list thoroughly I thought it would be impossible. I couldn’t and get going on all those applications). believe how expensive some of these Eligibility Requirements: • U.S. citizen or permanent resident of the U.S. Award Amount: $250 to $750 programs were. I was fortunate enough to • Currently enrolled as an undergraduate at find the correct resources and scholarships a college or university in the U.S. Application Deadline: Depends on when student chooses to go abroad (graduate students are not eligible) to fund my experience abroad and I want to • Study abroad program must be eligible for Eligibility Requirements: help pass along this info to other African- credit at the student’s educational institution • Minority students, U.S. military veterans, non-traditional students (30 years old or older), students with a • Study abroad program must be at least four disability, and/or LGBTQ students American and minority students. weeks long (30 days) • Participant in an API program

Although there are a ton of programs and scholarships out there to promote study abroad, there aren’t a ton geared toward African-American and other minority students. The programs listed below all have the common goal of promoting diversity amongst study abroad participants through offered scholarships.

GOABROAD.COM |9 4 Historically Black Colleges and Universities (HBCU) Scholarships This scholarship was created with the intent of sending students from a HBCU abroad with IES programs. Students awarded this scholarship will need to take stock of their time abroad in order to complete additional return requirements. At the end of your program abroad with IES, students submit a one-page reflection paper about how how it affected you personally, professionally, and academically and how this scholarship supported your endeavors. DON’T TAKE OUR WORD FOR IT: Award Amount: $2,000 including $1,500 toward the program and $500 toward airline ticket travel Program TESTIMONIALS Deadline: November, annually

Eligibility Requirements: • Open to students who attend an HBCU that is a Member or Associate member of the IES Abroad consortium and that transfers at least 75 percent of home school aid to IES Abroad. “How I was viewed truly made my ex- perience unique. Being a black woman is something I was proud of before studying 5 David Porter Need-Based Diversity Scholarship abroad, and traveling to Costa Rica made The David Porter Need-Based Diversity Scholarship was created to give minority students the opportunity of my pride even stronger. The people of studying abroad. This scholarship, also affiliated with IES Abroad, was named in honor of David Porter from Costa Rica viewed me as something the IES Board of Directors. It seeks to provide opportunity to groups traditionally underrepresented in study abroad and international education. unique and beautiful because of my skin. The constant adoration and appre- Award Amount: $5,000 off the IES Abroad program fee ciation was positively overwhelming and truly helped me to embrace the diversity Application Deadline: May 1 (Fall/Academic Year), November 1 (Spring/Calendar Year) that I represented. Eligibility Requirements: • Recipients must attend a private college or university that is a Member or Associate Member of the IES -Brittany Beene, Abroad Consortium. In addition, your home school must have a policy of transferring at least 75 percent of CIS Abroad institutional aid for study abroad. “The overall experience of being com- pletely uncomfortable and being fine with that. Being in China, you stand out Once you’ve narrowed your own list down, I’d recommend looking over a few guidelines to like a sore thumb and everyone knows make sure you’re submitting an application they simply can’t refuse. it, but that’s a part of the experience. “My program abroad has impacted You learn to be fine with being differ- There’s no greater experience than studying and traveling abroad. I encourage you to apply me by learning from others who look ent and still love most days. for the scholarships listed above and to do thorough research; really put your all into each and live differently than me. I learned application. It’s a beautiful world out there that you can learn a whole lot from. to suspend my American ego and en- -Deshawn Peterson, joy a different life. My program has Mandarin Spring impacted me by destroying some of Language Schools the prejudices I had that were taught to me through my environment that I didn’t realize I had picked up until I got to Buenos Aires, Argentina. The people softened my heart. I will never forget To find more Scholarships visit the GoAbroad Study Abroad Scholarship Directory this place. -Alicia Harris, Connect-123 Internships

GOABROAD.COM |11 GOABROAD.COM |12 “Be as bold as the first man or woman to eat an oyster.” - Shirley Chisolm STUDY ABROAD Okay, ladies! You’ve got this amazing opportunity to travel abroad and now you are thinking about all the things you will need to bring with you on your trip whether it is clothes, shoes, BEAUTY TIPS hygiene products etc. Hold up! Are you feeling unsure of or hesitant about bringing your precious hair, makeup, and skin products in an effort to pack light and save room for souvenirs? Are you nervous to travel FOR with the products, scared they won’t travel well, or pass the begrudged customs wall? If you’re anything like me, you’d almost be willing to let these setbacks become a deal breaker from signing up for a program.

BLACK GIRLS But, I’m here to tell you that it’s not necessary to fear studying, volunteering, teaching, or interning abroad for the lack of familiar beauty products. In fact, this would be an intense sacrifice for your precious serum. So instead of throwing in the towel, just commit to packing by Alicia Harris SMART.

While your efforts to pack light are valiant (good on you) and there are some necessary rules to keep in mind with packing, you might need to go back to the drawing board. Even though beautiful, dark skinned people (like you!) live in many places in the world, they don’t live in all the places in the world. Read on for hair, makeup, and skin care tips from one black girl who has been abroad to black girls going abroad.

GOABROAD.COM |13 GOABROAD.COM |14 A Beauty Horror Story Girl, Do Your Research Hair Straightening + Travel: A Winning In Short: Pack Smart I was in Bueno Aires, Argentina for about It’s always a good idea to research the country that Combo? two months for an internship and I ran out of you are going to, whether it is the people, culture, Bring all of your preferred hair, makeup, and skin If you straighten your hair using perms, I would foundation [gasp!] - I needed some badly. I generally mannerisms, and food. But you also need to take it a step products with you. It would be smart to bring two of highly suggest bringing the perm with you, don’t mind not wearing makeup, but I felt I was further. In order to avoid basic beauty blunders while everything with you so you don’t run out (can you especially if you do it yourself anyway. Otherwise, more presentable to clients on the job when I looked studying abroad, you need to research the season, the imagine being without your precious Miss Jessie’s you should think about putting your hair in braids a bit more polished. Anyway, there’s no makeup climate, and your shopping options in the country you’re baby butter cream?!). Pro tip: make sure to put any of instead. Ghana Braids, singles, the Senegalese for women of color because there are barely any headed to. your liquid-based products in your checked luggage, twist, or the Marley twist are all great options. Be women of color in Argentina, so I was out luck. But lest you find yourself bargaining with customs officer forewarned if you opt to stick with the perm - you the worst was yet to come. For instance, you’re going to want to know if you’re over Madame C.J. Walker. might be disappointed and put into a hair-raising studying in Xi’an, China but the only black beauty store situation you don’t wanna be in. Further, my hair has been natural and chemically is in Shanghai. Try to know what stores will be within Assume nothing and you won’t be left out to dry with- free for about 4 years, but before I even arrived in reach. It’s pretty likely that some countries don’t even out your beloved products. There’s only one word your hair ever needs to know: Argentina, I had my hair put in a protective style have the hair, makeup, or skin products that you’re used hydration! Whether you’re permed or not, protective (I put my hair in braids and added extensions, so to - so better to plan ahead and pack right than to end up You Look Great! hairstyles are convenient while you’re abroad. I that when I got to my destination I wouldn’t be in a pickle like I did... wore my hair in crochet braids for 3 months before Even if your hair gets a mess or your skin decides to worried about doing my hair all the time). I was I actually did it again and the second time it lasted flare up, that’s not what your study abroad experience worried about my new environment stripping my The Perks of a Protective Hair Style for 4 months. I went through my 7 month journey is really about, anyway. It’s more about interacting with moisturized hair dry, so I thought this was a smart in South America without any issues after my mini locals, pushing yourself past your limits and out of your step prior to travel. If you’re headed to a very cold area, it’s good to keep crises in Argentina. comfort zone (Ding ding ding! This includes feeling your hair in a protective style (natural or permed hair) comfortable without your “creature comforts” aka to protect the ends. I brought Jamaican castor oil, spray Unfortunately, my luck ran super thin and I ran out The Skinny on Skin Care Products beauty products), and having an incredible learning of the hair extensions that I was using! conditioner, and hair grease to put in the scalp of my experience. Just know that your outward beauty is one hair, even when my hair was in extensions. I really Although basic skin-care needs are the same for manifestation of yourself, and not the most important To the rescue - another American volunteer’s wanted to make sure my hair was growing healthily everyone, there are some issues that darker skin one by far. So put on a smile, walk out the door, and go mother was coming to visit her the next week, so I underneath my French braids. tones are more likely to experience, whether at see what this beautiful world has to offer you. asked (no, begged!) her to pick up some makeup and home or abroad. Our increased levels of melanin hair extensions for me at her local beauty supply. In order to style my hair, I brought an eco-styler gel to mean we need to be more cautious about dealing The heavens parted and she said yes, and I knew help the edges of my hair stay in place (not an easy task with acne or ingrown hairs. And remember: being PACKING LIST FOR BLACK GIRLS ABROAD my days of nappy hair and blotchy skin would soon considering I was taking the train back and forth to work ashy is nobody’s friend. be behind me. Picture my face when she brought - sometimes I’d barely make it, which would result in my • Hair bands/ties me my much-needed bag of goodies! hair being crazy!). I brought Vaseline and Hemp Lotion with me • Eco-styler gel so my skin would stay super moisturized. Plus, • Hair extensions The moral of the story: if you don’t want to go When I took my extensions out, I co-washed and the Vaseline kept unwanted bugs away - really • Shampoo and conditioner (especially dry through all that beauty hassle (stress lines are real, conditioned my hair and wore my fro out. Otherwise, I important if you’re going into areas home to a lot of shampoo!) people), just bring the stuff you need with you so used the eco-gel to (gently) force my hair down. I used mosquitoes or gnats. • Oil/hair grease you don’t run around a country you hardly know a sock (yup, an everyday sock!) to make the perfect bun • Skin care products (such as Ambi or Rx for Dark looking for things they may not have. until I put my extensions back in with fresh packs. Bring sunscreen with you from home - they’ll Skin) usually have it abroad, but it could be twice as • Hair spray expensive and harder to come by than you’d think. • Lotion • Vaseline/Coco Butter • Hair perm products • Makeup (especially foundation) • Hair rollers GOABROAD.COM |15 • Sock bun How exactly are you supposed to summarize Teaching that hundreds of years of culture into a three minute answer to one question? As a 19-year-old teaching an ESL class in Prague, I learned the hard way that is freaking culture can’t really be explained that simply. I de- cided to start with the basics - slang. hard. Here I was teaching a class of students from a local uni- are four ways versity, some of whom had already conquered two or three languages. After a few weeks of trying to figure out how much English they knew, I started to to make it a realize that they needed help with more advanced topics. Many students were confused by certain little easier: words, and they didn’t understand the context behind the words. Unlike me, they didn’t grow up 1 Test the Waters with Popular Media witnessing the effect black culture had on the En- Explaining black culture is a big task, and it’s best glish language. 4TIPS FOR to start small. Show a viral video or something that may not make sense to someone learning English, What started with trying to explain what “swag” is and then work on explaining that first. Try to iden- turned into a conversation on dance crazes, which tify what is and isn’t making sense right off the bat. TEACHING YOUR BLACK CULTURE turned into a conversation on pop culture, which turned into a conversation on social media. I mean Rather than feeling lost, your students should feel how can you explain “bae” without explaining the more like they’re already beginning to understand. prevalence of black twitter and it’s impact on how Not to mention seeing one thing should make them IN THE we speak? More importantly, how can I teach my interested to see more. Engaging curiosity is im- students to keep up with the times and quickly portant because you’ll need to keep people interest- learn new, culturally relevant words? ESL CLASSROOM ed until you get to more serious topics. Problem 1: The old “give a man a fish/teach a man 2 Make Them Laugh to fish” problem. I can easily spit out meanings for Black people are hilarious like no one else. There’s by Karl Gorgue words that aren’t clear or were introduced recently, but that wouldn’t help the root issue. The English something hard hitting and too real about black language moves quick, and to speak English with humor that makes you either laugh hard or cringe. young people especially you need to understand See Larry Wilmore’s first 30 seconds at the Corre- the culture. spondents Dinner for an example.

Problem 2: You can’t understand culture without This is actually an easy thing to show in many knowing the proper channels. Czech social media parts of the world. While the social dynamics may is a bit different compared to usage in the U.S., and not be clear, the raw nature of humor is much more the difference was effectively killing my students familiar. ability to see black culture for what it is - a little bit goofy, a little too harsh, and extremely hilarious.

GOABROAD.COM |17 GOABROAD.COM |18 From an international perspective, American Applying Knowledge humor is often softer and more politically correct. I noticed when traveling in certain places (the Czech Working with students who were already pretty Republic and France, among others) that the idea of good with English, I learned that teaching cul- ture takes time even for the best ESL students. The jokes being a little offensive was commonplace. Explaining where stereotypes come from isn’t 3 Get Real For a Minute easy, and lessons could easily be derailed by just a few questions about black culture. Now that you’ve gone through viral media and Lessons I Learned humor, it’s important to discuss the “cut directly-to- That being said, I don’t think it was a bad thing. the-chase” nature of black culture. Maybe it was the Going abroad helped me learn more about my history of slavery and social inequality in America culture than I could have learned by staying that did it, but something gave black people to abili- Living in Europe home. I realized that black culture is more than ty to be particularly unrelenting in their speech. just black people, and it’s more than just mu- by Kerry McLean sic or social media. It’s much more complex This kind of information doesn’t change the way and dependent on other cultures. It feeds off you interact with black people, but it helps un- of changes in population, and there’s differ- derstand the meaning behind a lot of issues and ent subcultures within black culture. I’ve been My first experience living away from my family in the U.S. was living in Europe for one causes that come out of black culture. Being black black for 20 years and I still don’t feel like I summer when was 18 years-old and trying to figure out what I wanted in life. That summer in is a lifestyle as much as it is a culture. It is a way of understand every single aspect of black culture. Europe helped me to find out. I suppose that positive experience is why I’ve returned to Europe thinking as much as it is a point of pride. No lesson How can I expect students learning English to so many times since then, studying abroad in Spain, working in Hungary, and exploring more on black culture is complete without understanding get it within a few minutes? than a dozen countries in the western, central, northern, and eastern regions of the continent. this. 4 Go Deep in Pop Culture My students in Prague took a lot of this infor- I have learned many things living in Europe. Here are some things that I think will be helpfulto mation as a way to learn more about American Black travelers in Europe: Black culture makes the English language difficult life overall, and it gave me the opportunity to because it’s hard to keep up. The reason it’s so easy learn more about Czech culture at the same for us (black or not) is because we’re exposed to Take a Picture, it Lasts Longer “Hello” and “thank you” are Important, But time. All I know is that I wouldn’t trade the a ridiculous amount of black culture in our daily (Sometimes People Will…) So are “Stop,” and “Leave me alone” challenge of trying to communicate black cul- lives. It’s impossible to escape. Whether it’s Betty ture for anything. Be prepared for stares. In some European cities Just like people will stare at you, some people (namely White dabbing at the Superbowl or seeing Black there are people that have never been in close men) will feel entitled to touch you, your hair, your hand, Lives Matter put on a new political stage, black If you think teaching ESL while black is going proximity to a Black person. So they’ll stare…and your shoulders, or maybe even your waist. This isn’t culture is pervasive element in our culture and to be easy, you’re flat out wrong.That being I do mean stare. Also, for some reason, Europeans meant to scare travelers, or to discourage you from trav- language. said, you’re also in for a pretty special experi- seem to be more fascinated by Black women than eling, but it is a reality, especially for women traveling ence. Black men. It can be tiresome to always be the ob- solo. While the definitions of “socially acceptable” and The problem for ESL learners is a lack of exposure. ject of attention, but my advice? Make eye contact “personal space” may vary across cultures, that doesn’t A great way to help students is by sharing the ways and smile. Some people might even want a photo mean you shouldn’t stand up for yourself when someone that you hear about new trends and changes in lan- with you, and you’ll have to decide if you’re cool touches you without your consent. As travelers we all guage. Show them interesting accounts or Twitter with that or not. Some might call you Beyonce or know the importance of learning “hello,” and “thank you,” or introduce them to the strange world of Vine. I Michelle Obama (I’m not kidding). You’re a celebri- as key phrases for interacting with locals in a new coun- once had high school students in France ask me ty! Seriously, though, even if it makes you uncom- try, but we forget to learn “no,” “stop,” “leave me alone,” or about the use of the word “tho” because they kept fortable, taking the stares in stride will make life in even how to call for help if the situation escalates. Arm coming across it on Twitter. Situations like these Europe easier on you. yourself with these phrases before embarking on your are much easier than having to introduce new ver- adventure abroad. nacular without context.

GOABROAD.COM |19 GOABROAD.COM |20 Hate-Groups are Not a Thing of the Past While I was in Madrid as a study abroad student, living Your Travels Will Inspire You Long After “The most effective way with a kind señora (host mother), and having a ball with You’ve Returned Home One big thing to prepare yourself for in Europe is my classmates, large numbers of African women were to do it, is to do it.” the presence of neo-Nazis. Yep, they’re around. being trafficked to Spain and many of those women were Although the news reports had talked about African I remember my summer in Switzerland, where I in Madrid. women being trafficked in Madrid while I studied -Toni Cade Bambara stayed at the home of my Swiss friend in Bern. abroad, it wasn’t until I saw it with my own eyes that I I was heading out by myself one day and the Apart from trafficked African women, when I lived in believed it was even possible. I wasn’t mentally prepared neo-Nazi that lived in the building rode in the Hungary and on numerous visits to France, I met many for it. My host mother and I were driving through a park elevator with me. My friend had pointed him out to men and women living in those countries that did not and chatting, and suddenly ahead of us I saw many me before, but it was my first time alone with him. have legal residence. This limited their options in terms young Black women standing around. Some of them I was terrified, Fortunately, nothing happened. This of work and school. There were also those that had really only appeared to be girls, not even adult women. It will likely be the case for most travelers, but with obtained legal residence, but faced discrimination when was the largest number of Black women I’d ever seen in neo-nazi activity on the rise across Europe this trying to find work. Madrid, so that was my initial surprise. Then, I noticed means a higher risk for hate crimes. It’s important that they were all wearing very revealing clothing, sti- to be aware of your surroundings at all times, know I also have African friends in France who are lawyers, letto heels and getting in and out of cars that pulled up how to contact proper authorities and your embas- many African friends in Switzerland who work for the beside them. I remember feeling as if I wanted to protect sy, and put your personal safety first. UN, and African friends in England in a range of profes- those young women and girls. It was that experience, as sions. The fact remains, however, that Africans generally well as a similar experience in Portugal, that inspired Packing Your Own Hair Products is Non- have difficulty obtaining a visa to enter most European me to do work on trafficking as a human rights lawyer, Negotiable countries, that African women and girls are targeted years later in Kenya. It might seem trivial, but trust me on this one. for trafficking to Europe and that many Africans living Ladies, bring your own hair care supplies! If you’ve in Europe face discrimination because they are from a I’ve been traveling in Europe for years now, got natural hair, this is a must. Those of us from country on the African continent. So, even though we and despite a few less than ideal experiences the U.S. are used to having access to a range of might look the same, we have very different experiences here and there, the continent still holds a lot of great products made specifically for the hair of in Europe. charm for me. In fact, I’m living in Europe again people of African descent, but that access is not as I write this! I encourage Black travelers to available in most of Europe. You’re welcome in see Europe. Go. Be prepared. Take these les- advance. sons I’ve already learned and then learn a few So, even more of your own. Whether you holiday, study abroad or work abroad, I know Europe will You Have Privilege as an American Expat though we charm you as well.

An important thing that Black American travelers to Europe should keep in mind is that many Afri- might look the cans in Europe lead challenging lives. Living and traveling in Europe really helped me to understand same, we have this. Because I’m American, I can travel to virtually any place in the world, and have access to things very different that Black people from some other parts of the world do not. Africans in particular. When I lived in Spain for the first time, I discovered that many experiences in women from the African continent were living a very different experience in Spain than I was. Europe.

GOABROAD.COM |21 GOABROAD.COM |22 Cultural Competence is EXTRA Important Locals would probably not When visiting Morocco, Tunisia, and Egypt (more be bothered by an obvious The conservative cultures), I did not expose a lot of skin foreigner (i.e. a white per- when dressing. Also, while living in Kenya, I discov- ered that women are expected to dress a bit more son) in revealing clothes, conservatively. They were not covered up to the extent but as a Black woman I Lessons I Learned that I had observed in north African countries, but you was often mistaken to be did not generally see Kenyan women in mini skirts or very revealing clothing. Locals would probably not be Kenyan. bothered by an obvious foreigner (i.e. a white person) Working in Africa in revealing clothes, but as a Black woman I was often Cultural Immersion is Both Fun AND mistaken to be Kenyan. Tasty by Kerry McLean In my opinion, all over the African continent the food is I still remember an incident when I was with two full of flavor and simply amazing. Food that is cooked Kenyan friends. I was stunned when out of nowhere will be generally safe to consume, though there is always a strange man came right up to me and began shout- a difference in food safety between eating from a street Africa is not a country. I’ve always known that, but it’s very common for people to refer to ing at me in Swahili. My Kenyan friends intervened vendor and eating in a restaurant. Expect there to be Africa as if it is one country like the United States. News flash: Africa is a huge continent. quickly and told him that I was American, and then the lots of chicken, beef, goat, pork and fish. In certain areas, HUGE. In fact, it’s the second largest and second most populated continent on Earth. There are man left me alone. They told me afterwards that the usually in more rural areas, you will encounter gamier 54 countries on the African continent and while some may share similarities, and each coun- man was angry because I was wearing a short skirt. meat. There are lots and lots of wonderful fresh fruit and try is unique in its languages (all 2,000 of them!), cultures, and traditions. Before visiting a country, try to do as much research as vegetables. Keep in mind, in most African countries the possible about cultural norms. Because it’s an incredibly diverse continent, your experiences will not be identical in every tap water is not safe for consumption, and take care in country, but I learned my fair share living and working in East, West, Central and southern Related: Work Etiquette Matters eating uncooked vegetables or fruit if you did not pre- Africa. Hopefully you can take my lessons learned and apply them to your time working in pare it yourself, or if you bought it straight from a street Africa- whether you’re working as a teacher in Morocco, with NGOs in Kenya, or anywhere and In a work setting, take note of what local colleagues vendor. everywhere in between. wear. When I worked in Liberia, there was one intern from Europe that wore clothes to work that my Liberi- The music is amazing in so many African countries, es- an colleagues (law professors and judges) perceived to pecially in the Democratic Republic of Congo, South Afri- “Hello,” and “How are you?” Go a Long Way You’ll want to pack your faves. be unprofessional. They often talked about his clothes ca, Kenya, Nigeria and Ghana. Great instruments, great and did not take him seriously. Don’t be that guy/gal! beats, and so many people that seem to have the gift of If you need to speak to someone about something, If you’re picky, like me, about which conditioner to use or song and dance. Your visit to the continent is not com- whether it’s the receptionist at work or making a what you wash your face with, bring your special toilet- plete until you lose yourself to the music at least once. transaction in a shop, I encourage you to say “hello” ries from home. You probably won’t find your particular Related: Check Your Preconceived Notions and maybe even “how are you?” Don’t just launch brands or products in the supermarkets in many African of Religion and Culture at the Door One great way to bond with the people that you work into asking for what you want. Otherwise, in many countries. With medication, often you can find some- Being culturally sensitive also pertains to reli- with is by showing appreciation of their culture. Learn African countries, people will think that you are rude. thing similar in the pharmacies, but generally speaking gion and local traditions. I have cringed when I’ve about the food, the music and other things. Your col- It matters. It can affect future interactions with that I bring what I think I will need. When working abroad for been in shops or restaurants in some countries leagues will appreciate your efforts. person. Also, be particularly respectful when you are long stretches of time I do try to visit home on occasion, and heard tourists or expats loudly saying critical speaking to older people. but when I might not visit for 4 or 5 months I stock up on things about the local culture or religion. If wel- my favorite things. What would be even more impressive is if you learn comed as a guest into a foreign country, show the basic greetings in one of the local African languages. people of the country that you respect their way of Try “hujambo” in Swahili, “sawubona” in Zulu or “as- life. salām 'alaykum” in Arabic. GOABROAD.COM |23 GOABROAD.COM |24 It’s Just Always a Good Idea to Check the Weather

It should go without saying, but just in case, re- member to double check the kind of climate you’ll be living in. Some countries, like South Africa and Kenya, to many travelers surprise, do get cold enough to warrant a jacket or coat and you’ve prob- ably heard of the intense rainy seasons. Do your research so that you will know which clothing to pack for the duration of your stay in the country that you will be in. interested in sharing your story?

Because I’ve lived in several countries in We want to hear from you! Contact us to share your experience. Africa, versus just visiting, I’ve had the opportunity to see the good and the bad. Despite the challenges, I find the African continent to be magical. I’ve had some of the most defining moments of my life on the continent. Experience Africa for your- self. Just bring an open mind and heart. Have suggestions or resources to add to our Comprehensive Guide?

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