AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY RETAIL REINVENTED INSIDE THE WORLD OF A REALITY STAR+BEAUTY CZAR HOW ED BURSTELL BROUGHT THE BUZZ BACK TO LIBERTY BROOKLYN’S HIPPEST RETAILER HITS BACKSTAGE A RETAIL REVOLUTION IN JAPAN BB1410-PG01-Cover.a;13.indd 1 10/8/14 3:35 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT NEW COLLECTION EXCLUSIVE BY COLOUR RICHE® ©2014 L’Oréal USA, Inc. Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. mark of is a service AppStore and other countries. in the U.S. ©2014USA, Inc. of Apple Inc., registered AppleL’Oréal and trademarks the Applelogo are lorealparisusa.com NEW CUSTOM-MADE NUDES BY COLOUR RICHE® A SHADE FOR EVERY SKIN TONE THE MOST REFINED LOOK FOR YOUR LIPS IN 6 LUXURIOUS SHADES. FIND YOUR PERFECT NUDE. BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™ TRY ON A SHADE INSTANTLY. DOWNLOAD MAKEUP GENIUS. THE 1ST VIRTUAL MAKEUP TESTER. lorealparisusa.com/makeupgenius NEW COLLECTION EXCLUSIVE BY COLOUR RICHE® ©2014 L’Oréal USA, Inc. Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. of Apple mark a service is Store App and other countries. in the U.S. USA, ©2014Inc. of Apple Inc., registered AppleL’Oréal and trademarks the Applelogo are lorealparisusa.com NEW CUSTOM-MADE NUDES BY COLOUR RICHE® A SHADE FOR EVERY SKIN TONE THE MOST REFINED LOOK FOR YOUR LIPS IN 6 LUXURIOUS SHADES. FIND YOUR PERFECT NUDE. BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™ TRY ON A SHADE INSTANTLY. DOWNLOAD MAKEUP GENIUS. THE 1ST VIRTUAL MAKEUP TESTER. lorealparisusa.com/makeupgenius 34 30 22 all me shallow, but I love to shop. Find out how I love the sense of discovery, of energy and Ed Burstell excitement, the sense of place that you get when In This Issue tripled Liberty’s beauty sales in you’re in a really amazing store with incredible, 8 Pete Unplugged 22 Ain’t We Got Fun! just five years. individualized merch. Over the past decade, as Can prestige As the critical fourth quarter Liberty of London managing style has democratized and stores have homogenized, such beauty break C out of the approaches, WWD’s Pete Born director Ed Burstell has experiences have become few and far between. But now, a single-digit looks at the department store breathed new life into the handful of iconoclasts are devoting themselves to bringing sales-gain rut? survival stakes. mecca once known for its back fabulous shopping experiences, and Ed Burstell, the floral fabrics, turning it into 10 For the Love of the Game one of the most-watched managing director of Liberty of London, is leader of the Father-daughter team Christian retail destinations in the pack. A vociferous opponent of the concession system, in and Virginie Courtin-Clarins world. which stores rent out space to brands, thereby ceding their bridge the generation gap. own identity, Burstell has transformed Liberty into what 28 Can You Hear Me Now? he calls the ultimate “accessible emporium,” packed with 12 Young and Beautiful Thanks to Millennials and Are you Inside MAC’s newest Orlando Generation Z, marketers ready for the exclusive products, cool brands and covetable one-offs. outpost. are radically rethinking their decline of How MAC the desktop? Many of those finds are hand-picked by Burstell himself, is meeting approach to mobile. a retail veteran who got his start behind an Estée Lauder Millennials on 13 All That Glitters their turf. counter and still passionately believes that a successful Real gold is cropping up in a 30 Get Ready for Playtime store strategy starts with the customer. As you’ll discover slew of new launches. Young shoppers in Japan are paving the way for a new type in “Ain’t We Got Fun” on page 22, that vision has paid off 14 Singular Sensations of concept store. in spades for Liberty, where overall sales have doubled Curls and color, color and I PFL since 2009 and beauty sales have tripled. curls: Key beauty street trends 34 Runway Radar I Burstell is not alone, though, as you’ll see in this issue as seen at the spring 2015 Jessica Richards, owner of of WWD Beauty Inc, which is devoted to what’s new, hot Beauty collections. Brooklyn indie beauty store A hip retailer street style Shen, uncovers the key trends translates and happening at retail. Take MAC, which is creating a from the backstage 16 The Cannes Chronicles from New York Fashion W ISA BY URSTELL B ; series of customized formats, like the recently opened capitals of Heading to the Duty Free show Week—and how she’ll sell beauty into I cool. retail reality. youth-oriented store in Orlando, Fla. Or Abercrombie and in Cannes? Be sure to hit these them. YAZAK MI E Fitch, which revolutionized the way it approaches mobile new hot spots. I UK commerce earlier this year, as we report in “Can You 38 In the Beginning… Y L BY L BY 18 Opening Season Hair and makeup superstars I Hear Me Now?” on page 28. Then there’s Japan, where Three brands are branching spill the hilarious memories economic and demographic factors have taken their toll into retail in Los Angeles. of their first fashion-week on beauty sales. But recently, the self-select channel has experiences. started to gain steam in a bid to woo younger consumers, 20 Shopper Stalker reports Kelly Wetherille from Tokyo, delivering a Who’s buying what—and why— on Manhattan’s Upper East RETA IANNACCONE; HOMAS T comprehensive view of the new competitive landscape Side. ON THE COVER: Ed Burstell, in “Get Ready for Playtime” on page 30. From Cosme managing director of Liberty of London, photographed Kitchen’s all-natural concept to Million Doors’ Paris- exclusively for WWD Beauty inspired setup, I, for one, can’t wait to go. —JENNY B. FINE Inc by Isa Wipfli. BY MODEL PHOTO WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 81. SATURDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. 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THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 4 WWD BEAUTY INC BB1410-PG04-TOC.a;18.indd 4 10/8/14 2:42 PM 10082014144508 Approved with warnings sense provocateurs International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. ©2014 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. All rights reserved. EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR JAYME CYK MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR ANNA DYSINGER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER CONSULTING COPY EDITOR NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR ART BARBARA SULLIVAN CONSULTING ART DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), ITZ/WIREIMAGE; DEBBY WONG/CORBIS DEBBY ITZ/WIREIMAGE; MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tok yo) PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO DIRECTOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO