Reality Star+Beauty Czar How Ed Burstell Brought the Buzz Back to Liberty

AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY RETAIL REINVENTED

INSIDE THE WORLD OF A REALITY STAR+BEAUTY CZAR HOW ED BURSTELL BROUGHT THE BUZZ BACK TO LIBERTY

BROOKLYN’S HIPPEST RETAILER HITS BACKSTAGE A RETAIL REVOLUTION IN JAPAN

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all me shallow, but I love to shop. Find out how I love the sense of discovery, of energy and Ed Burstell excitement, the sense of place that you get when In This Issue tripled Liberty’s beauty sales in you’re in a really amazing store with incredible, 8 Pete Unplugged 22 Ain’t We Got Fun! just five years. individualized merch. Over the past decade, as Can prestige As the critical fourth quarter Liberty of London managing style has democratized and stores have homogenized, such beauty break C out of the approaches, WWD’s Pete Born director Ed Burstell has experiences have become few and far between. But now, a single-digit looks at the department store breathed new life into the handful of iconoclasts are devoting themselves to bringing sales-gain rut? survival stakes. mecca once known for its back fabulous shopping experiences, and Ed Burstell, the floral fabrics, turning it into 10 For the Love of the Game one of the most-watched managing director of Liberty of London, is leader of the Father-daughter team Christian retail destinations in the pack. A vociferous opponent of the concession system, in and Virginie Courtin-Clarins world. which stores rent out space to brands, thereby ceding their bridge the generation gap. own identity, Burstell has transformed Liberty into what 28 Can You Hear Me Now? he calls the ultimate “accessible emporium,” packed with 12 Young and Beautiful Thanks to Millennials and Are you Inside MAC’s newest Orlando Generation Z, marketers ready for the exclusive products, cool brands and covetable one-offs. outpost. are radically rethinking their decline of How MAC the desktop? Many of those finds are hand-picked by Burstell himself, is meeting approach to mobile. a retail veteran who got his start behind an Estée Lauder Millennials on 13 All That Glitters their turf. counter and still passionately believes that a successful Real gold is cropping up in a 30 Get Ready for Playtime store strategy starts with the customer. As you’ll discover slew of new launches. Young shoppers in Japan are paving the way for a new type in “Ain’t We Got Fun” on page 22, that vision has paid off 14 Singular Sensations of concept store. in spades for Liberty, where overall sales have doubled Curls and color, color and since 2009 and beauty sales have tripled. curls: Key beauty street trends 34 Runway Radar Burstell is not alone, though, as you’ll see in this issue as seen at the spring 2015 Jessica Richards, owner of of WWD Beauty Inc, which is devoted to what’s new, hot Beauty collections. Brooklyn indie beauty store A hip retailer street style Shen, uncovers the key trends translates and happening at retail. Take MAC, which is creating a from the 16 The Cannes Chronicles from New York Fashion backstage series of customized formats, like the recently opened capitals of Heading to the Duty Free show Week—and how she’ll sell beauty into cool. retail reality. youth-oriented store in Orlando, Fla. Or Abercrombie and in Cannes? Be sure to hit these them. Fitch, which revolutionized the way it approaches mobile new hot spots. commerce earlier this year, as we report in “Can You 38 In the Beginning… 18 Opening Season Hair and makeup superstars Hear Me Now?” on page 28. Then there’s Japan, where Three brands are branching spill the hilarious memories economic and demographic factors have taken their toll into retail in Los Angeles. of their first fashion-week on beauty sales. But recently, the self-select channel has experiences. started to gain steam in a bid to woo younger consumers, 20 Shopper Stalker reports Kelly Wetherille from Tokyo, delivering a Who’s buying what—and why— on Manhattan’s Upper East comprehensive view of the new competitive landscape Side. ON THE COVER: Ed Burstell, in “Get Ready for Playtime” on page 30. From Cosme managing director of Liberty of London, photographed Kitchen’s all-natural concept to Million Doors’ Paris- exclusively for WWD Beauty

inspired setup, I, for one, can’t wait to go. —JENNY B. FINE Inc by Isa Wipﬂi. W I PFL ISA BY I ; B URSTELL Y UK I E MI YAZAK I L BY RETA IANNACCONE; T HOMAS BY MODEL PHOTO

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 81. SATURDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdP [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 WWD BEAUTY INC

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PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR JAYME CYK MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR ANNA DYSINGER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER CONSULTING COPY EDITOR NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR ART BARBARA SULLIVAN CONSULTING ART DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), ITZ/WIREIMAGE; DEBBY WONG/CORBIS DEBBY ITZ/WIREIMAGE; MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tok yo) PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO DIRECTOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR CARTER LOVE BOOKINGS EDITOR EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO

BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE GHADIMI ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR GUGLIELMO BAVA INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY BRITTANY MUTTERER BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARY KATE CALLEN MARKETING DIRECTOR JENNIFER PINCUS SENIOR DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING ANNE ICHIKAWA COPY DIRECTOR JULIE JACOBY SENIOR EVENT MARKETING MANAGER AMANDA MULLAHEY ASSOCIATE INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER CHRISTINA MASTROIANNI PUBLIC RELATIONS COORDINATOR JESSICA MARRA MARKETING ASSISTANT PRODUCTION KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER MICHAEL WAGNER SENIOR MANAGER DISTRIBUTION OPERATIONS CONSUMER MARKETING ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR PEGGY PYLE CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR JANET MENAKER SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT GIRL JOHN CROSS PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR SUZANNE BERARDI OF THE UNTITLED MAGAZINE/CORBIS CESARINE/THE INDIRA BY OUTLINE; PHOTO FROM TOP: CLOCKWISE DEMIS NEWS/CORBIS; GRAN MARYANNAKIS/SPLASH STEVE SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER MOMENT ALISON CHRISTIE ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC MELISSA BRECHER CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER GINA RODRIGUEZ is set to steal the small MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT screen this fall. With her combination of girl-next- DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR JANET JANOFF BUSINESS MANAGER door looks and talent—she was being courted for two new fall series—the 29-year-old breakout star landed the lead role in The CW’s most buzzed- about new show, Jane the Virgin. Earlier this year, FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC IS A DIVISION the Chicago-born actress nabbed the ﬁrst-ever OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Rising Star of the Year honors at Variety Latino JAY PENSKE CHAIRMAN & CEO the Young Hollywood Awards, solidifying her star power. “Her being the ﬁrst Latina lead on the CW GERRY BYRNE VICE CHAIRMAN PAUL WOOLNOUGH EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, BUSINESS AFFAIRS with Jane the Virgin is groundbreaking, but it’s GEORGE GROBAR EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS only the beginning,” says Variety Latino editor MICHAEL DAVIS CHIEF OF VIDEO STRATEGY Angie Romero. “She is someone we’ll be talking NELSON ANDERSON VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE about for years to come.” STACEY FARISH SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT ENTERTAINMENT & PUBLISHER DEADLINE CRAIG PERREAULT SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT TODD GREENE GENERAL COUNSEL & SVP HUMAN RESOURCES GABRIEL KOEN VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING KEN DELALCAZAR VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE TARIK WEST VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES LAUREN GULLION DIRECTOR OF HUMAN RESOURCES & CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS ROBB RICE GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR JONI ANTONACCI DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS YOUNG KO CONTROLLER CHRISTINA YEOH SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER EDDIE KO DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS MATT WILLIAMSON DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS & PRODUCTION DEREK RAMSEY 6 WWD BEAUTY INC SENIOR PLATFORM MANAGER

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To Be Great Again With modest sales gains predicted for the U.S. prestige market, WWD’s executive editor of beauty, PETE BORN, analyzes what it will take for department stores to thrive once more.

s the beauty industry faces the critical fourth quarter, Retail guru and author Paco Underhill also cites statistics on the some key industry analysts think it’s high time the flatness of department stores. “That’s a very 20th-century dipstick American department store gets its mojo back. [looking at a balance sheet at the end of the year] on what is a 21st- Department On the surface the news is OK, if not great, due century problem,” he says, noting that a small handful of American stores are being to a weakness in the skin-care category. “I don’t stores are thriving while “a whole bunch are doing really poorly.” think it’s going to be an amazing year,” says Karen So how can U.S. department stores gain a higher growth outstripped AGrant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst at the trajectory? by a mode of NPD Group, “but I do think that we have enough momentum Drawing a comparison with London retailers, which have overall to carry us and give us some lift in the holiday period become a touchstone of success lately, Underhill says American competition that [in the neighborhood of a couple-percentage-point increase].” merchants are “clueless” where the Brits excel—catering to rich could be barely Her optimism is based, in part, on a strong surge in makeup offshore tourists, who can generate almost 60 percent of a store’s and the relative health of fragrance in the $10.8 billion prestige receipts. He sees numerous opportunities to cultivate well-heeled imagined 30 beauty category. According to NPD, for the year to date through visitors, as the British do, with programs such as delivering the years ago. August, total beauty sales in the prestige market were running shopping bags of rich Saudi Arabians to their hotel rooms so they 4 percent ahead, on an adjusted calendar basis. Makeup was don’t have to carry them around. soaring at plus 7 percent; fragrance was 3 percent ahead and skin Underhill, like others, says retailers have to use their assets, care, which had been the leader, was bringing up the rear with such as the “ability to curate and organize presentation, not for a 2 percent increase for the period. Carol Hamilton, president the ego of the brands, but for the convenience of the customer. of L’Oréal Luxe USA, points out that fragrance has actually That is particularly poignant for those stores which are outside of exceeded expectations lately. For August, L’Oréal had expected the urban core, where people are desperate for education.” the prestige fragrance category to eke out a 3 percent increase He adds, “How can we start to transform from the sale as the and it came in at plus 4.5 percent. driver of traffic in a door to the event as the driver? It could be But that’s where the good news ends for department stores, fashion shows, it could be back-to-school events, it could be which comprise 70 percent of beauty’s prestige category. The looking 20 pounds less. It’s just issue after issue, which could be other components are what NPD calls fine department stores setting your own style, how do I match cosmetics and a bag.” He (Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s calls it “being able to find ways to give away information.” and Lord & Taylor) and the specialty chains, led by Sephora, The department store industry is also challenged by the Ulta Beauty and Blue Mercury. problem of how to put consumer data into the hands of sales According to estimates pooled by Alexandre Choueiri, people who need it to intelligently interact with their customers president of International Designer Collections at L’Oréal USA, (“Are you still wearing that suit you bought two years ago, Mrs. when the onion layers of the prestige category are peeled back, Brown?”). “We are doing a lot of collecting of data but we aren’t department stores come up flat to a bare 1 percent gain in the doing a lot of getting it to wisdom,” Underhill says, referring to year to date through July for the fragrance category—the key the information pyramid. business this time of year—while fine department stores had an Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and founder of WSL 8.7 percent advance and the specialty chains jumped ahead by Strategic Retail, says she is always struck by “the holistic view 10 percent. This means that department stores, the bulwark of of beauty” at Selfridges in London, where offerings range from prestige retailing for the last century, are being outstripped by high-end $80 lipsticks to pharmacy products—and all points in a mode of competition—beauty chains—that could be barely between. “They are the experts in everything beauty,” she says. imagined 30 years ago. How retailing has diversified over the “U.S. department stores continue to sell beauty the way they last decade is illustrated by Marc Rey, president of Coty USA and sold [it]—for the most part—for 25 years,” Liebmann says, while Coty Prestige USA. His philosophy is simple: “Win everywhere.” crediting Nordstrom and Macy’s for making some innovations. Rey is spreading his attention and his money across an array “Retailers have to make the experience different but they also of channels from department and specialty stores to Ulta and have to make the feel of it different,” she says. “They have to mix Sephora to QVC and all the dot-coms in between. “I want to be up the brands, and make [them] different, like indie brands or where the consumer goes,” he asserts. services that you normally don’t see.” But it may not be so simple. Rey agrees, “It’s very “If you don’t create a reason for them to come and buy,” says

unpredictable, this year.” Grant, “they can get it online.” KERR SAM BY ILLUSTRATION

8 WWD BEAUTY INC

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Discover at www.clarins.com BEAUTY BULLETIN Virginie and Christian Courtin- Clarins photographed in the company’s new headquarters.

DOUBLE MAJOR For the Love of the Game During this, Groupe Clarins’ 60th-anniversary year, CHRISTIAN COURTIN-CLARINS and his daughter VIRGINIE sat down in the family company’s newly minted headquarters to discuss the past, present and future—with no small measure of love and laughter blended into the mix. BY JENNIFER WEIL

hat is your earliest beauty memory? CHRISTIAN COURTIN-CLARINS: It is the Model’Bust my father created because as soon as you have a problem Wbefore he created Clarins. We called it you have to ﬁnd a solution, so you have the Médicin’Bust. It was equipment to be creative. You don’t have to be that helped women have a fantastic massage with afraid to face a problem. A lot of things

cold water, and it was my first toy. that happened in the company came Virginie with her father, at VIRGINIE COURTIN-CLARINS: For me it is the sun from a constraint. For instance, the cost left; above, with her sister, products. We used to go on holiday all together, and of goods of a bottle of Angel led us to a cousins and grandfather. I remember as a kid thinking that my father and my refill system. grandfather were making cosmetics products for [For] management, the one word to see [increasingly] a very us. I remember going to the beach and seeing other that I use more than “respect” is strong relationship between families with Clarins products and thinking: “Oh “consideration,” because you have to brick-and-mortar and the my God, they stole our products.” And that’s how I listen, understand why people think like [they do]. Internet. We will need more creativity to attract the realized that they were making products not just for It’s a question of consideration, trust and confidence customer to come and visit us [in store] because the the family. that make a good manager. competition of the Internet is going to be huge. We What are among your most amusing family You have to make [people] work together. That’s have to adapt to both [realms]. recollections? why I’m fascinated by rugby, because you need Virginie, what have you learned from watching V.C.: Our grandfather … made [his four every guy—a small one, a quick one, a tall one— it’s your father? granddaughters] try products and discuss the names individuals that play as a team. V.C.: Oh là là. of lipstick or makeup. We were always involved in V.C.: Creativity and management are both related C.C.: Everything. the decision he wanted to make for marketing or to your own instincts. We are very lucky to be a V.C.: Everything—no, it’s true. [She laughs.] Usually communication. family company, so we can follow our instincts and we don’t do interviews together, so I always say that I remember when I was about 20 years old, he not trends. For example, for the creative people who he’s my hero, my personal example—now I have to wanted me to try the new slimming product—Total we work with—like Thierry Mugler’s designer David say that in front of you. Body Lift, it’s called now. We arrived at our family Koma—I try not to restrain his work to some trends C.C.: She makes me blush. house in the South of France, and he told me: “You’re or only business-oriented considerations and instead V.C.: I always loved the way he understands, listens, going to try it. But in order to make sure it works let him go with his own feelings and what we think is manages. I mean, honestly, I try to always do the you’re going to try it for the whole summer on only right. If we listen to statistics, or studies or whatever, same things. He has this aura. one leg.” Let me tell you, it works, because at the end nothing can be changed or get done. How would you describe each other’s greatest of the summer, the other leg—I didn’t like it anymore! Christian, how has the industry changed since you strengths and weaknesses? C.C.: One day we were invited to the house with my began working? What has been the most exciting? C.C.: She has huge determination, and that’s the father, and the cook said: “Oh Jacques, I love your C.C.: The industry changed mainly in Europe, most important. She’s quick, and she’s clever. You have product. It’s so great. It’s so efficient. I prepared the because there has been a huge concentration of a lot of clever people, but you have very few people who salad with it.” [They laugh.] We didn’t understand. distribution. In one way it is good because you can be have the determination to do things. As for a weakness, Then we ate the salad and we recognized the Anti- more organized. On the other hand, it [somewhat] she doesn’t like to lose. She’s a bad loser. Eau Body Treatment Oil! She asked, “But why do you reduces creativity in the sense that when you have V.C.: It’s true. When I play, it’s to win. make it in such small bottles?” My father said he had something new, it has to work very quickly or it is For my father, I think kind of the same thing. He’s to review the method of use and make clear that you removed from the shelves because there are so many very intelligent, so he understands everything super apply it on skin. things coming [out] for marketing reasons. fast—even when he pretends not to. [She laughs.] He’s How do you approach creativity and management? The most exciting is that there is always an very human to people. And maybe his flaw is the same C.C.: Creativity for me is always to try and find evolution of our world with the Web. But we have to as mine; it’s that sometimes we take things too much to

something different. Constraints create creativity, face that customers are changing, and we are going heart and it’s difﬁcult to disconnect. DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE BY PHOTO

10 WWD BEAUTY INC

BB1410-PG0X-Double Major.a;11.indd 10 10/8/14 10:40 AM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT What are you working on right now? Environnementale, or high-quality environmental]. We C.C.: I have been asking: “What’s going to happen wanted all the people from the group to be together as to selective distribution, and how are we going to be one big family. But it’s also the starting point for the next NEWSMAKER FORUM different from the mass market? How can we keep 60 years. Our biggest strength is being able to say yes or our momentum?” I found one solution yesterday. no to investment in the long term. And? Can you reveal it? C.C.: It’s very strange. Nineteen fifty-four was the C-SUITE C.C.: No, certainly not. [He laughs.] creation of Clarins; ’64, the first Clarins product. In V.C.: He didn’t even tell me yet! 1974 I joined the company; ’84 we moved to Rue POWER PLAYERS C.C.: I found the answer because I went to buy Berteaux-Dumas in Neuilly. In 2014, for our 60th some shoes, the new Berluti [sneakers], and I found birthday, we moved to this place. REVEAL the solution. V.C.: And I got married in 2014. OMNI-CHANNEL V.C.: I have the show in two weeks, so I’m working What happens when there are disagreements a lot on that. I wear two caps here in the group: I within the family? have my day-to-day work at Mugler. And my second C.C.: First we sulk, for one day minimum. [He RETAIL STRATEGIES cap is as member of the Clarins board. As the third laughs.] Then we come back and speak. generation, we try to be much more V.C.: Communication is very SONA CHAWLA involved in strategic decisions and important. If we have something that WALGREEN CO. the brand. We try to address topics IN BRIEF bothers us—any member of the family— that are very important for the brand we try to keep the rule that we have to President, Digital and CMO CHRISTIAN COURTIN- development—how we see the brand tell what the problem is and try to find a CLARINS in the next 10, 20 years. solution together. A son of Groupe Clarins’ C.C.: What are the biggest upsides and founder Jacques We always find a solution downsides of today’s business? Courtin-Clarins, Christian because we love each other. C.C.: If we want to keep the [term] Courtin-Clarins serves as V.C.: It’s like in a couple—you need high-end distribution, selective the president of Groupe communication. With my Uncle Olivier distribution, we have to offer customers Clarins’ supervisory and my cousin Prisca, who has entered a buying experience they want to come board. He joined the the group, every month we have lunch back to. So we have to look at the long company in 1974 after to discuss our business and make sure term. Today, particularly when you are studying at the Institut that communication between us is in a crisis, because more or less all over Supérieur de Gestion completely clear. business school, and has the world our industry is suffering a Christian, what advice do you give held many roles there, little bit, particularly in Europe, we are Virginie? including managing MARY DILLON short term–minded. C.C.: Be yourself. I tell my daughters director of Clarins. He ULTA BEAUTY The upside is research makes a lot of is largely credited with you can do what you want, but you have progress. Skin-care products are going driving the company’s to be good at what you do. I never force CEO to be better and better in terms internationalization. them to do something that they don’t of improving skin at every age, for every want to do. problem. Makeup is more and more a VIRGINIE COURTIN- Are there certain family sayings or glorifier of beautiful skin. CLARINS mantras that are often repeated? Fragrance is a concern because with The eldest of Groupe C.C.: Do more, do better and enjoy new laws I’m afraid that we will lose Clarins’ founding doing so. family’s third-generation creativity because we are going to have V.C.: “Respect” is really one of the members, Virginie to reduce a lot of ingredients and also core values of the group—respect the Courtin-Clarins is a because if you come with a … fragrance graduate of École customer, respect nature, respect the that needs to establish itself as did des Hautes Études people working with us, respect your Angel and Alien, I am not sure the Commerciales du Nord family—everything. retailers will allow us the time. business school. In 2010 Of what are you most proud? V.C.: There’s nothing left to say except she began working in C.C.: My father asked me to write that maybe for us the upside of being Printemps department on his tomb: “Here lies a man who MODERATED BY in that market as a family company store’s fashion and surrounded himself with people smarter is that we can think with long-term beauty department, than him.” I would like the same thing LINDA WELLS vision because we don’t have outside where she oversaw said of me. marketing operations Editor-in-Chief, Allure shareholders saying we need profit V.C.: I think I’m too young, and it and partnerships. Later, right now. would be too narcissistic to answer that she launched the fair- This building is a good example trade bathing-suit brand, because I’m at the beginning of my November 19th of what we want. [That] we are Luz, and last year was career. celebrating the 60-year anniversary named marketing and C.C.: So you’re proud of all the Harmonie Club/NYC and moving to a new building at the communications director objectives that you want to reach? same time actually represents all our at Mugler Mode. V.C.: Yes. And I am proud to think PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE BY PHOTO values. It’s H.Q.E. [Haute Qualité that the best is to come. CEW.ORG

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SOCIAL STUDIES FASHION WEEK FAVORITES

Tribe Dynamics identified 35 of the top beauty brands associated with New York Fashion Week, and monitored them for a 21-day RETAIL WATCH period surrounding the spring 2015 shows in September. Here, the top-10 earned-media performers and Young and Beautiful overall earned-media performance MAC Cosmetics is giving new meaning to the kids’ table. In its for each channel, plus a day-by-day 1,000-square-foot youth-format store in Orlando, a 20-foot table breakdown of beauty’s most buzzed- shaped like an elongated letter C is covered with interactive tiles filled about brands. with products shoppers are invited to touch, smell and apply at their leisure. (Rounding out the brand name, a monster M holds product and a giant A serves as the cash-wrap.) Top 10 Earned The table, which provides 360-degree access to items across the makeup spectrum mixed together rather than Media Performers separated by category, is the centerpiece of MAC’s efforts to attract Millennials and Generation Z. Throughout 1. TRESemmé: $300,489 the store, the majority of the space contains mirrors and application tools to encourage product testing. “This 2. Nars: $292,120 customer likes to come in and hang out and play. We want them to spend some time with us,” says Karen Buglisi 3. MAC: $210,795 Weiler, global brand president of MAC Cosmetics. Millennial customers aren’t afraid of touting themselves on social media, and MAC is tailoring events to encourage that. The store’s opening event featured makeup artists 4. Maybelline New York: $203,154 dedicated to helping them perfect selfies; customers tried out their new looks by snapping themselves with singer 5. Too Faced: $186,554 Madison Beer inside a photo booth (as seen in the picture above). The store also has an animated LED screen, 6. Essie: $160,519 seven makeup stations and a 40-foot entrance that gives the space a fishbowl-esque feel. “We don’t want to be 7. Bobbi Brown: $122,281 boring,” asserts Buglisi Weiler. Homogeneity is certainly boring, and MAC is moving away from it in its retail strategy by introducing several 8. Nyx: $107,263 different formats for its stores, including the youth format, a fashion authority template, and national and global 9. OPI: $103,257 flagships. “Isn’t it about relevancy?” asks Buglisi Weiler. “One store doesn’t fit all. A few years ago, that’s what we 10. Deborah Lippmann: $76,660 did. There might be a big store or a small store, but how we approached it was pretty much the same. Now, we understand our customer street by street, market by market. You have to be in the world of customization and GEORGE CHINSEE, AND JOHN AQUINO CHINSEE, GEORGE relevancy now.” So far, MAC’s retail tactics appear to be working. Since the youth format opened in Orlando, Overall Earned Media industry sources report sales have been climbing regularly by 10 percent and are on track to rise 20 percent. The Performance by Channel location is among MAC’s top-five performing stores in North America and could rake in more than $5 million in Instagram: $728,780 first-year sales. The next market to receive the youth-format MAC is New York, where a 930-square-foot store is Blogs: $472,014 scheduled to open by December in Union Square, perfect for New York University students looking to get their makeup fix. How not boring is that? —RACHEL BROWN YouTube: $407,475 Twitter: $98,600 Facebook: $61,745 Pinterest: $11,280

LEXICON Daily Earned Media Performance Winners Clockwise from left: Aerin Amber Sept. 4: Too Faced Musk Body Cream, FANCILLARY Diptyque Le Bazar du Sept. 5: OPI 34 Notebook, Narciso [fan-suh-ler-ee] Sept. 6: TRESemmé Rodriguez Narciso Scented Body Lotion, noun Sept. 7: Maybelline New York Tom Ford for Men A superluxe (and very covetable) Conditioning Beard Sept. 8: Essie Oil in Neroli Portoﬁno, addition to an existing fragrance range. Sept. 9: Nars Tom Ford for Men See: Tom Ford’s scented beard oil and Beard Comb, Byredo tiny tortoiseshell comb, Diptyque’s chic Sept. 10: TRESemmé Parfums Bal D’Afrique Hand Cream cahiers and Byredo’s artist-inspired Sept. 11: TRESemmé tubes of hand cream.

SOURCE: TRIBE DYNAMICS PRODUCT PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MAC INTERIOR BY RICARDO PARRA; MAC SELFIE BOOTH BY GERARDO MORA; RUNWAY BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, GIANNONI, GIOVANNI BY RUNWAY MORA; GERARDO BY SELFIE BOOTH MAC RICARDO PARRA; INTERIOR BY CHINSEE; MAC GEORGE BY PRODUCT PHOTO

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BB1410-PG12-Mix.a;19.indd 12 10/8/14 12:31 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT From top: RESTOR OPI Nail Lacquer in SEADon’t 100% Natural and Non- Gold Flecks; PETER THOMAS ROTH Clinical Skin Care 24k Gold Mask Pure Luxury Lift & Firm Mask; Speak Pure 18k Gold; ESTÉE LAUDER Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Sculpting/ReﬁnishingToxic 24kt Liquid Gold Dual Face Infusion Oil with Vibransea Complex; MIN ERAL FUS ION Illuminating Primer with

Shimmering

SHELF LIFE All That Glitters While gold’s eectiveness as an ingredient in beauty products is debatable, its declaration of status is not. That hasn’t gone unnoticed by brands eager to tap into the ongoing lust for luxury by infusing products with the precious metal. “Gold connects people to ancient tales of legendary beauties like Cleopatra and Helen of Troy,” says Beautystreams founder Lan Vu. “When a woman puts gold on her face or nails, it evokes ancient splendor, and makes her feel like she’s taking care of herself and somehow part of that sumptuous world.”—ANN A DYSINGER

PHOTOGRAPHED BY COOLIFE

BB1410-PG13-Gold.a;17.indd 13 10/8/14 12:05 PM 10082014120602 BEAUTY BULLETIN MILAN LONDON

BEAUTY NATION SINGULAR SENSATIONS The brightly hued hair trend shows no signs of slowing down, if the beauty looks of the fashion flock (and the hangers-on who love them) are any indication. Pink—from the palest shrimp to beyond bright—is the current color of choice, although turquoise came in a strong second. Girls with curls also made their presence felt in the capitals of cool, as natural textures, sometimes even tinted, looked super fresh. London lived up to its reputation as an early adopter on the

trend front, as runway looks like a mohawk made of buns (first seen PARIS at Marc by Marc Jacobs, created by star stylist Guido Palau) hit the streets, here in a rainbow iteration. And braids, expected to be a key beauty direction next spring, have already been adopted as a street-style fixture. Vive la individual! LONDON, MILAN, AND PARIS PHOTOS BY KUBA DABROWSKI; KUBA BY MITRA AND ROBERT NEW YORK PHOTOS IANNACCONE, THOMAS BY AND PARIS MILAN, LONDON, PHOTOS NEW YORK

BB1410-PG14-StreetFashion.a;8.indd 14 10/8/14 11:09 AM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT FOR A WILD UP DO WITH DEFINITION & SHAPE

Creative collection

HAIRMEETWARDROBE.COM 1789 CALA Espadrilles—available in more than 37 colors—are raised to an art form in this tony new boutique. 3 Rue Hélène Vagliano; Tel.: +33.9.80.34.17.84

STEAK ’N SHAKE Hankering for a burger? Options at Steak ’N Shake range from the Bacon Lovers to the Veggie Melt. CAFÉ BRUN A restaurant–wine bar–café Such delights can be washed down with hybrid, the diminutive Café Brun opened six milkshakes boasting succulent names like months ago. Its plat du jour changes daily, the Ultimate Banana. 2 Place du Général de depending on what’s selling in local markets. Gaulle; Tel.: +33.4.93.39.05.86 30 Rue Hoche; Tel.: +33.4.93.39.34.36

LE TUBE RESTAURANT Industrial-style restaurant Le Tube opened earlier this year with chef Bertrand Schmitt serving up a menu of fish, meats and pastas plus CARVEN The Paris-based label Provençal tasties like inaugurated its first store in Cannes zucchini flowers. in April, selling its hip women’s wear in the 555-square-meter space. 10 Rue Florian; Tel.: BE-SHORTS Be-Shorts—the go-to boutique for +33.4.93.68.51.69 15 Rue du Commandant André; shorts and colorful belts—has a new location as Tel.: +33.9.67.45.48.99 of March. The collection for women, men and children also includes covetable down jackets. 73 Rue d’Antibes; Tel.: +33.4.93.30.18.16

HÔTEL MAJESTIC BARRIÈRE This five-star hotel recently restyled its RETAIL SAFARI beachfront, just a hop from the Palais des Festivals convention center and boasting two see-and-be-seen restaurants: Restaurant with chef Maryan Gandon and Kinugawa with chef Toyofumi Ozoru. The Cannes 10 Boulevard de la Croisette; Tel.: +33.4.92.98.77.30 Chronicles

If you’re up for some extracurricular activities at the TFWA World Exhibition and Conference, running Oct. 26 to 30 in Cannes, France, head to these new hot spots. BY JENNIFER WEIL

ILLUSTRATION BY BRETT AFFRUNTI

BB1410-PG16-RetailSafari.a;13.indd 16 10/8/14 12:24 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT MARCH 2015 TH ND 19 -22 COSMOPACK TH RD 20 -23 COSMOPROF BOLOGNA (ITALY) FAIR DISTRICT www.cosmoprof.com

Organiser - SoGeCos s.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 fax +39.02.795.036 - [email protected] - company of in cooperation with BEAUTY BULLETIN Opening Season RACHEL BROWN VISITS THREE HOT L.A.-BASED BRANDS THAT ARE BRANCHING INTO RETAIL.

HOURGLASS Hourglass founder and chief executive ofﬁcer Carisa Janes considers the brand’s new 1,400-square-foot store as a laboratory to try edgy concepts, such as makeup artists using Google Glass to record makeup sessions. It will also be home to Hourglass’ ﬁrst skin-care product, Equilibrium Biomimetic Skin Active Serum. At $350, the serum is around $280 more than Hourglass’ next-most expensive product, and its aim—to regulate skin-cell differentiation— isn’t the sexiest pitch in the skin-care biz. “With the opening of the store, I was able to do something very unique because I didn’t have to make large batches,” explains Janes. She’s candid about having no idea how skin care will perform saleswise. And that’s the point of having a store: Hourglass can dream up products ENTREPRENEURIAL EDGE that don’t have to meet exacting sales targets. “It is not just about having a store for the sake of it. It is to test, to engage and to create amazing services and products for our customers,” says Janes. 1351 Abbot Kinney Blvd. DINEH MOHAJER,

SMITH & CULT URBAN DECAY Dineh Mohajer may not keep her own nails Wende Zomnir’s dream of opening a store for perfectly polished at all times, but she’s her brand, Urban Decay, has become a reality, certainly mastered the nail category. The thanks to the largesse of parent company L’Oréal, founder of Hard Candy is back with a new which bought Urban in late 2012. “Retail is always venture launching in October—Smith & Cult, something that you think about because it allows a luxury line of polishes inspired by moments you to show the full expression of the brand. Of in her life where beauty made an impact course, we kicked it around, but we are kind of on her. Case in point: She wore a dark Ann realists,” says Zomnir, chief creative officer and Demeulemeester dress to a wedding while founding partner. One of L’Oréal’s principal missions the other attendees were in pastel shades, for the brand—expanding internationally—gave which culminated in the black glittery polish Urban Decay a strong impetus to develop a retail Dirty Baby. “It’s inspired by all the things format that could spread globally. Set to open in that I’ve experienced in my life that are very November, the 1,000-square-foot store will feature similar to girls down the street or across a 100-inch nickel chandelier, six makeup stations, a coffee bar, an interactive photo booth and a so-called “dude the country—it’s every girl,” says Mohajer. station” where guys can hang out. “The store sets the pace, and speaks to what stores will look like everywhere,” “What was interesting about it was thinking says Tim Warner, chief executive, who notes that London is slated for store number two. 401 Newport Center Dr. about the beauty manifestations in those moments.” Along with the polish, which will be sold at salons, C.O. Bigelow and Net-a- MURAD porter, she’s releasing a book exclusively for Howard Murad has long been an evangelist of customers to browse at salons, titled Diary inclusive health, a message that comes through of a Beauty Junkie, with stories and eclectic loud and clear at his brand’s new 1,500-square- foot flagship. Murad’s holistic viewpoint is graphics to illustrate some of the shades. communicated immediately with a five-minute skin- Next will be a small range of lip glosses, health analysis. For customers who want a more likely released next summer, in “colors that rigorous analysis, there’s YouthCam Evaluations are wearable, that I love, that are perfect using a high-definition camera with proprietary for everyone,” says Mohajer. So what is it software to measure lines and wrinkles, age spots about nail polish that gets her creative juices and inflammation. Ruth Madeja, director of global flowing? “They are such a quick and easy retail marketing, emphasizes the multiplicity of way to change up a look without making technologies—including an interactive hero wall that a huge investment,” she says. “It’s like an runs informational videos about products when they accessory. One minute I can be in a certain are picked up—is to answer customers’ concerns personally. “People want to know how this caters to my needs,” vibe, and then the next I can be on the other she says. For Murad, inclusive health goes beyond products. A digital art wall allows customers to create their end of the spectrum.” —ANNA DYSINGER own masterpieces, reflecting his desire that customers can relieve the stresses of modern life. 8207A West 3rd St. CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO PRODUCT

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BB1410-PG12-Mix.a;19.indd 18 10/8/14 12:31 PM 10082014123430 Approved with warnings

SEPHORA BEAUTY BULLETIN SEPHORA FAVORITES DRAW * THE LINE, $30 STILA $191.90 “It’s a small set, SMUDGE STICK TOTAL SPENT but it lets you try WATERPROOF EYE SHOPPER: Ankita Sancheti a bunch of liners LINER IN COBALT, DATE/TIME: 9.16.2014, 2:35 p.m. before you buy a $20 EACH STORE: Sephora full size,” she says. She picked up LOCATION: 750 Lexington Avenue, URBAN DECAY one for her mom ELECTRIC, $49 and one for her New York “My sister sister. wanted a palette What’s in Ankita’s Bag? with a lot of color,” says Ankita Sancheti ﬁnds shopping for beauty stressful, but for Sancheti. her sister’s upcoming wedding, she made an exception. The ceremony is in India, and because makeup is so pricey there, BEAUTYBLENDER the 32-year-old housewife is buying products in New York, $19.95 EACH where she lives, and bringing them to India for her mom and “Apparently, if you have big pores, this sister. “I’m like a personal shopper,” says Sancheti, who spends is a good way to put DIOR ADDICT $500 annually on beauty. She visited the newest Sephora, on your foundation,” LIP GLOW, $33 where she made a 90-minute appoinment with an expert, says Sancheti. She “Unfortunately picked up two for her they only had one to check items off her sister’s list. “I’m very new to makeup,” sister. in stock,” she she says. “I wanted to learn how to apply stuff and what goes says. “But if they had two I would with my skin.” While makeup isn’t a priority, skin care is. have gotten one She purchases products recommended by her dermatologist for me as well.” because she has rosacea. Beauty junkie or not, she’ll be back to Sephora. “I’m supposed to pick up more,” she says. “I’m going to go talk to my sister and then come back—again.”

DIORSKIN NUDE SHOPPER STALKER SHIMMER IN MISS DIOR EAU DE AMBER, $56 PARFUM, $115 Good loves bronzer and DIORSKIN The Buy contouring and AIRFLASH SPRAY this product is a FOUNDATION IN two-in-one. L’OR DE VIE LA CAMEO, $62 CRÈME CONTOUR “It makes it look like you just got Side YEUX ET LÈVRES, airbrushed,” $210 reports Good. ANNA DYSINGER HEADS TO 60TH “I used a similar STREET AND LEXINGTON AVENUE Chanel product but picked WHERE TWO RETAIL GIANTS this up out of BATTLE FOR BEAUTY BUCKS. convenience,” she says. $875.50* TOTAL SPENT DIORBLUSH IN SHOPPER: Leslie Good LADY RED, $42 DATE/TIME: 9.16.2014, 1:45 p.m. 5 COULEURS EYE- “I use NARS STORE: Bloomingdale’s SHADOW PALETTE Orgasm, but LOCATION: 1000 Third Avenue, IN TRAFALGAR, $60 I needed to New York “The artist said this transition into would make my fall without the eyes pop,” says glitter,” she says. What’s in Leslie’s Bag? Good. “I’m usually really safe when it BACKSTAGE EYE CAPTURE TOTALE comes to eyes.” On your birthday you shop, and that’s exactly how 23-year- PRIME, $28 EYES ESSENTIAL old Leslie Good was celebrating hers in Bloomingdale’s. “This helps my EYE ZONE BOOSTING eyeshadow last The Parson’s student—she’s majoring in fashion studies SUPER SERUM, $72 longer,” says Good recently and hopes for a career in costume research—and her Good. ran out of her mom stopped at the Dior counter to restock their favorite SOURCILS Philosophy eye cream and decided eyebrow pencil, but decided to get their makeup done as EYELINER POUDRE BRUSH, $28 to try this instead. a treat and ended up spending almost $900. “I had class POWDER EYE- BROW PENCIL this morning and I didn’t wear makeup and my mom IN BLONDE, $29 and I aren’t in a hurry,” says Good. “We thought, ‘Might DIOR as well!’” Her two sisters consider her the family beauty ADDICT IT- expert, but Good, who says she spends about $1,000 a year LASH, $26 on makeup, follows her mom’s advice. “She always taught DIOR ADDICT LIP DIOR ADDICT me that you should present yourself well and I don’t really DIORSKIN GLOW, $33 GLOSS IN BED OF Good doesn’t ROSES, $29.50 leave the house without putting makeup on,” says Good, SCULPT LIFTING SMOOTHING wear lipstick and “The artist liked this because her mom nodding approvingly. “But I’ve gotten a lot more CONCEALER IN convinced me it matches her comfortable and I don’t have to be overdone.” BLUSH BRUSH, IVORY, $36 that I need color $49 natural lip color. on my lips,” she CHINSEE GEORGE BY PRODUCT PHOTOS ERICKSEN; KYLE BY BY SHOPPER PHOTOS says. 20 WWD BEAUTY INC *Pretax total.

BB1410-PG20-ShopStalker.a;8.indd 20 10/8/14 2:17 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT ADVERTISEMENT RECOGNIZING EXCELLENCE IN LUXURY SERVICE L’ORÉAL LUXE IS PROUD TO PARTNER WITH WWD BEAUTY INC TO RECOGNIZE DAWN ROBIN MCFALL FOR EXCEPTIONAL CUSTOMER SERVICE IN LUXURY BEAUTY

Throughout 2014, L’Oréal Luxe partners with WWD Beauty Inc to recognize beauty advisors “It’s amazing how a little effort can make a big change.” who best exemplify the L’Oréal ideals of customer service in luxury beauty. In this issue we honor Dawn McFall, Lancôme Beauty Advisor at Macy’s in Pasadena, California.

To Dawn, working as a Beauty “Visionnaire plus Géniﬁ que is Advisor is more than a profession paradise for skin.” – it’s a passion. This means planning her day to make sure goals are clear, and ﬁ nding fun, creative ways to meet objectives. Dawn says, “I meet my sales goals by making sure my customers get the service they need. It’s that simple.”

“Good service is making sure she’s eager to come back.” GO TO: lancome-usa.com/careers TO LEARN MORE ABOUT DAWN’S COMMITMENT TO LUXURY SERVICE

“I love makeup. And adding skincare ampliﬁ es the results.” By infusing the legendary Liberty of London with a newfound energy and excitement, Ed Burstell has transformed a Victorian dowager into one of the world’s most-watched retail happenings.

BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ISA WIPFLI

22 WWD BEAUTY INC

BB1410-PG22-WELL-Ed Burstell.a;18.indd 22 10/8/14 3:46 PM 10082014154855 By infusing the legendary Liberty of London with a AIN’T WE GOT FUN! newfound energy and excitement, Ed Burstell has transformed a Victorian dowager into one of the world’s most-watched retail happenings.

BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY ISA WIPFLI

BB1410-PG22-WELL-Ed Burstell.a;18.indd 23 10/8/14 3:46 PM 10082014154935 “Ed is one of those people who has this unbeliev- able creative side with a really balanced business side,” says Sharon Collier, the chief executive officer of Cover FX, who Burstell says “discovered” him when she was the beauty department manager at Neiman Marcus in Westchester and he was the counter manager for Estée Lauder—and highest-producing sales associate in beauty. “He is extreme as far as the creative side goes and being able to identify new trends rooms. I love going on appointments. I still want to and opportunities. That is unique.” get my hands dirty,” says Burstell. “You’ve got some- Back in the Trish McEvoy offices, both sides, the thing you think you can show me, I’ll see you,” he analytical and intuitive, are on full display, as Burst- continues. “It must be one of the most intimidating ell takes a seat, idly starts playing with some makeup things, someone with a great product standing out- and gets down to business. side a store, thinking, ‘How am I going to get in?’ We “So, Ed, what have you been up to?” McEvoy asks let them in.” him. Bringing in newness and innovation is the core te- “Fashion week—one show after another,” says net of Burstell’s strategic vision for Liberty, one that Burstell in his trademark nasal New Yorkese. (His is antithetical to the prevailing retail model in much most-used retort when people comment on his new- of Europe and, increasingly, America. “From the top found TV celeb status is “With this voice—can you down, my job is to make sure that every floor looks believe it?!”) like it was edited and focused and bought with one “I wanted to catch up with you guys to figure out eye. I’m not a big advocate of concession models. A how to do something explosive. I didn’t think the store is also a brand—Liberty is a brand with a very n a brilliantly sun- business would be as big as it is,” he continues. “I distinct and unusual DNA,” he says. “That would be ny Tuesday after- thought it would be about 500,000 a year,”—he’s talk- eroded if you were just renting out space.” noon in New York ing pounds—“you said 750,000 and now it’s at a mil- “So much of retail today has become standardized, Getti City, in between running from one fashion show to lion. How do we get it to a million two? run by reports and numbers and trends on paper,” Oanother, Ed Burstell bursts through the glass doors “We’ve never done a personal appearance with says Heidi Manheimer, the chief executive officer of of Trish McEvoy’s East 57th Street offices, shatter- you,” he says, unfurling a floor plan of Liberty. “I was Shiseido Cosmetics America, who met Burstell when ing the chic calm within, all white Barcelona chairs thinking department takeover.” both were young buyers at Bloomingdale’s in the and polished ebony floors and elegant orchids, with a For the next 20 minutes, McEvoy and Burstell vol- late Eighties. “Ed is the most un-retail retail person loud, “Hiya! How are you doing, dear?” ley logistical details back and forth, from how long I know. He’s always been jazzed by the product and In one hand, he carries his lunch—spinach salad she needs with each client (45 minutes rather than the in-store experience. From the beginning, he came and a diet Snapple peach tea; in the other, a battered the 30 that Burstell initially suggests) to how many at it from the consumer’s point of view of the product black Prada tote that serves as his moving office. Be- cash register–ringers should be on hand (two). They and the experience.” hind him follows a three-person camera crew, there oohh and aahh over a Liberty-print makeup planner Makeup artist Bobbi Brown first met Burstell to record his every move for a follow-up to the hit that McEvoy has created for the holidays. “If we do around 1994, when she was launching her fledgling documentary, Liberty of London, which aired last 250 makeovers and everybody buys a planner, that’s line at Henri Bendel, her brand’s second account. “Ed year in the U.K. and is now filming season two. Re- 25,000 pounds,” Burstell calculates. is not someone who says, ‘Here’s a tiny space on the portedly BBC America is in talks to air the show, a “If they buy a skin-care set, too, it’ll be closer to counter, you are lucky to be here.’ Instead, he asks veritable retail master class, in the U.S. 40,000” shoots back McEvoy. They talk flowers, ‘What opportunities do we have?’ and he takes it from Burstell wolfs down half his salad, flosses his teeth, lighting, cocktails and fragrances, then it’s time to there,” she says. “He sees the products as what they then makes a grand reentry, this time with the cam- move on. Another fashion show beckons. are and how they will look on the counter and how eras rolling. That hands-on approach is trademark Burstell, the consumer will experience it. Many retailers have Burstell is the managing director of Liberty, and the key to what drives both his longevity as a re- so many big initiatives they are working on they don’t the star of the show—in more ways than one. Since tailer and the remarkable success he’s had at Liberty, stop to look at the details. Ed looks at all of that.” joining Liberty six years ago as buying director (he where sales for the year ended February 2014 were was promoted to his current position in 2010), he has 125 million pounds, about $204.3 million at current En ro brought the 140-year-old retailer, once best known exchange rates. The store, a historic Tudor edifice on for its colorful floral fabrics, back to profitability and Regent Street, rang up about $130.8 million, versus urstell’s pursuit of new and unusual re- relevance in one of the most competitive markets on $62.1 million in 2009. Liberty’s Web site had sales of sources has been instrumental to Lib- earth—London. about $8.2 million and its wholesale business rang up erty’s turnaround, drawing in the much- “The transformation he has undertaken at Liberty $65.4 million. For the same period, beauty accounted Bcoveted Millennials. “When I started, is, directionally, a game changer,” says John Demsey, for about $36 million, or 27 percent, of overall store there was one revenue stream—a customer who had group president of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., who sales, and 20 percent of e-commerce sales, about been there for a long time and was maturing. She’s has known Burstell for more than two decades. “In $1.6 million. In 2009, Liberty’s beauty sales were just a little bit older and she likes things that are print- the way he approaches fashion, discovering new tal- $13 million. (Burstell oversees all retail, marketing, based,” he says. Six years later, that customer now ent, his embrace of artisanal fragrances, establishing image-related and buying functions, as well as the represents about 50 percent of Liberty’s business, new beauty archetypes—he sees the future and gives Liberty of London brand.) while a younger, hipper, more fashion-forward shop- it room and space to grow. He is a real merchant.” “I love looking at products. I love going to show- per comprises 30 percent, attracted by brands Burst-

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BB1410-PG22-WELL-Ed Burstell.a;20.indd 24 10/8/14 4:18 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT IF YOU DON’T UNDERSTAND THE BOTTOM UP, IT’S NOT GOING TO WORK FROM THE TOP DOWN.”

Getting a lipstick tutorial at Bite Beauty Lab in SoHo. Testing the wares at Surratt Beauty.

En route. A quick visit to his pals at Aedes de Venustas.

HE SEES THE FUTURE AND GIVES IT ROOM AND SPACE TO GROW.” —JOHN DEMSEY

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BB1410-PG22-WELL-Ed Burstell.a;20.indd 25 10/8/14 3:59 PM THE BEGINNING TO END ell has added such as Alexander Wang, Stella Mc- IS THE PRODUCT YOU SELL— Cartney and 3.1 Phillip Lim in fashion, and Byredo, Surratt and Hourglass in beauty. The remaining 20 THAT’S IT. NOTHING MORE.” percent is tourist trade, of which half comes from other parts of the U.K. Burstell’s impact on beauty has been signiﬁcant. He likes to say he and his team, Gina Ritchie, head of beauty and accessories, and Sarah Coonan, beauty buyer, have doubled the space and tripled the sales. Today, the 5,000-square-foot space has productivity of about $7,200 per square foot. No wonder. Beauty, after all, is a category Burstell knows intimately. Collier made him her assistant at Neiman Marcus. (“He took a huge pay cut,” she re- members with a laugh. “I told him sometimes you have to take a step back to take lots of steps forward.”) He then became an assistant buyer at Bonwit Teller, a buyer at Bloomingdale’s and then the cosmetics and fragrance buyer at Henri Bendel. By the time he left there for Bergdorf Goodman in 2005, he was the store’s vice president and general merchandise manager. Burstell’s experience at each retailer is evident in how he approaches running his business today. His time behind the counter instilled in him an abso- lute allegiance to the customer. “A selling philosophy Talking architecture with Frédéric Malle in Malle’s new Greenwich Avenue boutique. starts with how you talk to a customer. That deﬁnes everything from the bottom up,” he says. “If you don’t understand the bottom up, it’s not going to work from the top down.” Burstell delights in recalling the launch of Estée Lauder’s autobiography at Bonwit Teller, when Lauder walked through the front door, took hold of his arm and headed straight to the counter to meet her public. “She was devoted 100 percent to her customers,” he says. “What a lesson.” In fact, one of the biggest hurdles Burstell has faced in his turnaround plan is instilling a service culture at Liberty, located in a country better known for its British reserve than service with a smile. “Compared to American service, it is still quite lacking,” he says, bemoaning the absence of dry-cleaner deliveries in London. “So we just pound away at the basics, when someone knows as much as they possibly can about what they’re going to sell you. We are there to facili- tate customers around the department with ease, be knowledgeable but not pushy, you know? There are none of me there,” he guffaws, ending the thought with a laugh as he often does. “That won’t happen. Taking care of business in between meetings. But there will be a conversation about ingredients.” From Bloomingdale’s and Bendel’s, Burstell took away the importance of events, of happenings, of being the retail ringmaster of a desire-driven circus. “If you YOU HAVE TWO OPTIONS. YOU CAN have a smaller footprint of a store, you have to animate SAY ‘I TRIED TO GET BRAND XYZ.’ it,” he says, recalling raucous MAC events at Bendel’s, OR YOU CAN GET OFF YOUR ASS AND where anyone from RuPaul to Charlie’s Angels would turn up to see and be seen. Parties and personal ap- GET SOMETHING ELSE AND TALK pearances are now standard operating procedure at ABOUT IT AND MAKE IT GREAT.” Liberty, like a bash for editor Katie Grand and Love

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BB1410-PG22-WELL-Ed Burstell.a;20.indd 26 10/8/14 3:59 PM magazine, where Beth Ditto performed. “She brought the house down,” Burstell exults. Overlaid animal prints imbue traditional scarves “If you have a small store, why do something if no- with modernity. body knows you’re doing it? You need to talk about the news and you need to never be afraid to make your own news. You have two options,” Burstell continues, really on a roll now. “You can say ‘I tried to get brand XYZ.’ Or you can get off your ass and get something else and talk about it and make it great.” To that end, Burstell has spearheaded a slew of exclusive product collaborations, from the haute—cot- cleaning product.” (“Don’t take that the wrong way,” ton Liberty scarves overprinted with Hermès’ signa- says Burstell, “because I love it.”) ture horse and carriage—to the high street, like Nike Of the one aspect that he’s not so crazy about—the An exclusive sneakers in the company’s cheerful patterns. Shoe line’s minimal black-and-white labels that resemble collaboration with Vans. designer Manolo Blahnik took his watercolor draw- that of another Swedish fragrance brand—Burstell is ings of beautiful footwear and turned them into a sta- diplomatic, telling Ahlgren matter of factly, “I would Liberty For All tionary range, while Frédéric Malle combed through change that. It’s too reminiscent of what’s out there.” Liberty’s archive of 40,000 prints for limited-edition All the while, he’s lined up his three favorite scents PRODUCT EXCLUSIVES AND COOL ENVIRONMENTS ARE THE TRADEMARK OF boxes to house his fragrance range. and is ready to nail down details. “When will they ED BURSTELL’S APPROACH AT LIBERTY. “I have synesthesia—when I smell, I see color,” says be ready?” “Can we get something for December?” HERE, SOME RECENT EXAMPLES. Malle. “Ed had the idea to use this as packaging and I “We’ll launch with three—they tell a story together— jumped on it. The prints that I chose are abstractions then roll out another in fall, and another at holiday.” Bobbi Brown’s bespoke space.... that represent what I see when I smell.” Sandi Burrows, who is handling the distribution for Parfumerie Wilhelm and has arranged the intro- duction, is elated. “When you say to other retailers that a brand is launching at Liberty, it is very mean- s with Frédéric Malle, many of the re- ingful, because of the uniqueness of the environ- lationships that Burstell has forged ment and excitement that Ed has brought to it,” she throughout his career are intact and says. “There are other retailers one could go to and Aimportant today. Liberty’s top fragrance have a bigger sell-in, probably. But it’s a stamp on brands include Frédéric Malle, Le Labo, Byredo and the brand and a wonderful place to build visibility Escentric Molecules, while bestsellers in beauty in- and be nurtured.” clude Trish McEvoy, Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier, But back to business. It’s not yet 10 a.m. and Burst- Aesop, Kiehl’s, Shu Uemura and Aveda. Unlike most ell has six back-to-back beauty appointments sched- ...and Aveda’s living wall. stores, each brand has roughly the same amount of uled before an afternoon trek out to Brooklyn to space on the floor, no matter its sales. “When you size case the scene for unknowns. Ahlgren packs up and something up or down, you’re giving a subliminal mes- Burstell heads out as the cameras continue to roll. sage to the consumer, who may or may not want that No surprise there: When the first installment of the from you and may or may not believe you,” Burstell Liberty documentary was broadcast last November, says. “Why go through all that if you don’t have to?” viewership averaged between two-and-a-half million Burstell is continually tinkering with the assort- and three million people an episode, and the retailer’s ment, adding new products, brands and concepts, sales increased 18 percent in December. like Must-Haves and Makeup Must-Haves, two ar- The theme of that first season’s show was how Lib- eas which each have a turnover of about 1 million erty prepares for the Christmas selling season, and pounds, selling incremental items such as eyelash in addition to Burstell and his management team, curlers and specialized bath soaks. it featured everyone from the stock supervisor to Back in New York, Burstell, on the hunt for news, the store’s top-selling salesperson (she works in fra- is meeting with Jan Ahlgren, a Swedish model who grance, natch). True to Burstell form, it’s a no-holds- is readying a fragrance brand—called Parfumerie barred look at the inner workings of one of retail’s Wilhelm after his grandfather—for launch. As Ahl- most-frenzied trading periods. “If people are going to gren sets up the presentation, Burstell grills him watch, you have to put it out there,” he reasons. “Why like a journalist, all the while inspecting the bottles, make something boring?” boxes and caps, before getting down to the business This year, the focus is on the business of fashion, of smelling the six scents. Each gets its own commen- of how the store sets it strategy and chooses the mer- tary. One smells “really decadent, like the end of the chandise for ready to wear, accessories and beauty, Frédéric Malle’s interpretation of night, perfect for me because I smoke,” while another, the aspect that Burstell loves best. Liberty prints. called Room Service and inspired by how Greta Gar- “For me,” says Burstell, “it’s always been about the bo might have smelled when she was ordering room stuff. The beginning to end is the product you sell— service in a fancy hotel, smells like an “incredible that’s it. Nothing more. It’s as clear to me today as ever.” Q A new line of signature leather goods has been a hit.

WWD BEAUTY INC 27

BB1410-PG22-WELL-Ed Burstell.a;18.indd 27 10/8/14 3:47 PM CAN YOUHEAR ME

hen it comes to mobile, it’s time for marketers to put their buy NOWsomething than those who go to a Web site on a desktop or money where their mouths are. No pun intended. laptop. Razorfish calls this the “mobile gap,” and Goldberg notes ? Although mobile devices have already gained critical that a recent Google study reported that 60 percent of users who mass as the digital entryway of choice for Millennials and start on a mobile platform migrate to a desktop to finish their pur- Generation Z, too often brands and retailers are developing chase transaction. their digital presence for desktop first, according to many of Experts agree that to close the mobile gap, companies need to the speakers at the WWD Digital Forum held in September refocus their efforts and design for this very different platform. in New York. The differences between a desktop and mobile go far beyond the They do so at their own peril, says Anthony Citrano, vice obvious one of screen size. “The challenge of mobile is that it’s an president of communications for Verizon Digital Media Servic- entirely new platform with its own unique constraints,” says Jake es, who says that young consumers immediately judge a compa- McGraw, director of technical operations for Refinery29. “Usage ny by its digital presence. “You have to build for mobile or you’re patterns are completely different. Typically, people just like to missing out,” he says. “In the eyes of Millennials, they really do take whip out their phone and do something. You really only have sec- it personally. If your Web site sucks, you suck.” onds to engage with the user.” That became the most oft-cited quote of the second day, as Rather than a mobile-responsive approach, in which a Web speaker after speaker hammered home the importance of mobile. site’s design or architecture is repurposed for a number of different As most people know by now, the numbers are compelling and platforms—desktop, tablet, smartphone, etc.—companies like Ab- growing exponentially. There are more smartphones in the world ercrombie & Fitch and Refinery29 have evolved to a mobile-opti- than toothbrushes, according to statistics from Razorfish. For every mized approach, meaning each platform has its own architecture. Wbaby born in the world, there are 10 smartphones activated. Just last “Mobile is fast becoming the flagship brand experience,” says Billy month, Apple sold more than 10 million iPhone 6 models in its first May, group vice president of Abercrombie & Fitch, who notes that weekend on counter—and that wasn’t even including China. 75 percent of the company’s e-mails are opened on a phone and 90 But perhaps even more eye-popping, particularly for brand mar- percent of its consumers sleep—literally sleep—with their phone. To keters, is that 60 percent of the time users spent on retail Web sites that end, the company embarked on a research project last year to in the second quarter of 2014 was on mobile or tablet devices. “In better understand how its shoppers use mobile, and then created a August, 50 percent of all the traffic to Target and Wal-Mart came new m-site from the ground up. from mobile devices,” says Jason Goldberg, vice president of com- What did Abercrombie discover? First, that speed is critical. The merce strategy for Razorfish, “yet most [companies] spend millions average user spends about 1.5 seconds with each picture on Insta- of dollars and all of their time focusing on desktop experiences.” gram (“That’s not as fast as a sneeze, but close,” says May) and ex- Moreover, users on a mobile device are four times less likely to pects a download time of no more than two seconds when she visits

28 WWD BEAUTY INC

BB1410-PG28-WELL-Media.a;7.indd 28 10/8/14 1:30 PM 10082014133312 Approved with warnings THE MESSAGE ABOUT MOBILE WAS LOUD AND CLEAR AT THE WWD DIGITAL SUMMIT.

NOW a Web site on her mobile browser. The company also learned that bank, you need an experience that finishes before you get to the teller,” mobile content? has to tell a story and be put into an overall brand says Goldberg. “When we look at the big retailers, it’s clear that users context. “It means modularizing what was a fixed desktop experi- come to us at different times of the day with different contexts. The ence, and making snackable moments,” says May. “When we rede- most popular browser on the way to work is the smartphone. During signed for mobile, we created a new template with larger images, the core work hours, the most popular browser is a desktop or laptop made the product more heroic and added large-scale buttons—calls and during prime-time television, it’s a tablet. to action—because it is simple for a consumer. It meant evolving “Perfectly intuitive when you think about it,” he continues, “but it’s what we call key looks into more-merchandised collections, which why the big retailers have different mobile experiences that change are more immersive, have stronger visual storytelling, a stronger depending on what you’re doing. The customer experience that you point of view and inspire the consumer to discover as they scroll have on your mobile in store is different if you’re in a Starbucks.” through the pictures.” The move to mobile is being driven by Millennials and Gen Z, each Though the look and feel may be different, the experience for the of whom approach digital differently. The former have grown up with consumer has to be seamless, regardless of the platform she is using to digital, while the latter were born with it. As Goldberg says, “They were access a site. David Olsen, global vice president of beauty and groom- born expecting this stuff to work.” Gen Z, which already accounts for 25 ing for Net-a-porter, reports that mobile has become more popular percent of the U.S. population, he says, is already using on average five than expected for beauty. “We’ve seen a significant increase in mobile screens, a distinction which will soon become irrelevant. purchases over the last year,” he says, “and customers expect a seam- “Frankly,” he says, “you should stop counting screens. There’s go- less experience between devices, from the homepage to the product ing to be too many screens. Every article of clothing they own is go- pages to their path of purchase. We offer consistent checkout. If you’re ing to be a separate Internet of things, connected to the world-wide signed into your account, no matter what device you are on, the con- wealth of knowledge.” tents of your shopping bag and wish list are the same.” That always-on ethos means marketers are going to have to con- The checkout experience overall is another huge barrier to buying tinually refine, refocus and reassess their understanding of con- on mobile. Statistics from Razorfish show that every time the num- sumer usage patterns in an ever-evolving digital landscape. “This ber of inputs on the payment page is cut in half, conversion doubles. group—they hang out online. They have close friends they’ve never Amazon reports that entering credit card information on a mobile met. They deeply trust people they’ve never met. They love peo- device is especially odious to consumers, and many mobile wallets, ple they’ve never met,” says Citrano. “They trust people they’ve like the much-ballyhooed Apple Pay, aren’t optimized for use on never met for everything from fashion advice to relationship ad- mobile Web browsers. vice. It’s pretty crazy. Savvy marketers are also optimizing the context of where a cus- “But this is the future,” he concludes. “Either embrace it or die.” tomer is using a mobile device. “If you’re standing in line at the —Jenny B. Fine

ILLUSTRATION BY MARGARET RIEGEL

BB1410-PG28-WELL-Media.a;7.indd 29 10/8/14 1:30 PM 10082014133456 Approved with warnings GET READY FOR PLAYTIME

THE SELF-SELECT MODEL IS GAINING TRACTION IN JAPAN, WHERE YOUNG SHOPPERS EAGER TO PLAY WITH BEAUTY PRODUCTS ESCHEW THE TRADITIONAL DEPARTMENT-STORE FORMAT.

As consumer shopping habits in Japan evolve, the once-mighty BY KELLY at that time department-store sales were still good and growing, so department-store chains have started to lose some of their power, WETHERILLE therefore [brands] would rather have their image counter, like they forcing them to come up with new business models and concept have at department stores. But the situation has changed.” stores that will attract different types of customers. In the case of the ILLUSTRATION BY Indeed. Euromonitor International valued Japan’s beauty and prestige beauty market, this means that semi-self-select multibrand JORDI LABANDA personal care market at 3.78 trillion yen, or $34.82 billion at current stores are popping up all over the country, giving shoppers more op- exchange rates, in 2013. This is up slightly from the previous year, tions for where (and how) to spend their money, and allowing pres- but still lower than when the market peaked at 3.93 trillion yen, or tige brands to reach a whole new range of customers. $36.14 billion, in 2007. Analysts attribute this stagnation to demographic and The first location of this new crop of stores—a Cosmeme store owned by Aeon, economic drivers, such as the country’s aging population and overall economic one of Japan’s largest retailing groups—opened in a suburban mall outside of To- decline. These same factors have affected Japan’s department stores, which of- kyo in 2011. Since then, the success of the format in the Japanese market has been fer customers a time-consuming, consultation-driven shopping experience that undeniable, with several other companies jumping on the bandwagon with their no longer resonates with younger shoppers. According to the Japan Department own chains of multibrand beauty stores. These include Isetan Mitsukoshi’s Isetan Stores Association, there were a total of 241 department stores in the country as Mirror, Sumitomo Corporation’s In Clover, Hankyu’s Fruit Gathering and Takashi- of the end of August, down from 280 at the end of 2008. maya’s Million Doors. While the channel is still new in Japan, the majority of chains “Historically speaking, counseling channels such as department stores and spe- are reporting double-digit sales growth year on year. ciality stores were the strongest channels in Japan. In the 1980s however, general “Currently, this type of store is relatively uncommon, with only a limited number merchandise stores were widely spread all over Japan, and in the 1990s drugstores of outlets in Japan, but the presence is likely to increase in the future,” says Yuiko became popular. Both of these are considered to be ‘self-selection’ channels,” says Mitani, a research associate at Euromonitor International. Masahiko Uotani, president and chief executive officer of Shiseido. “These ‘semi- The recent success of these multibrand retailers is testament to just how much self-selection’ channels increasing recently are something that could bridge a gap the Japanese market and the habits of its consumers have changed in the past de- between counseling and self-selection channels. They are receiving the customers cade and a half. who would need advice but feel a little bit annoyed with conventional counseling.” In 1999, both Sephora and Boots opened stores in Japan, at the same time an- While the market may not have been ready for luxury multibrand beauty stores nouncing ambitious plans for aggressive expansion within the country. But both at the time of Sephora’s arrival here, some retailers nevertheless saw the value chains lasted barely two years before pulling out of the market entirely. in the format. Toshiharu Sakurai, buyer and store-development manager for the There are various theories as to why each failed in Japan, but most industry Isetan Mirror stores, says that Isetan had been mulling over the idea of rolling insiders agree that it was a combination of the stores not being able to stock prod- out Sephora-style beauty stores for about a decade before opening its first one in ucts by major brands and consumer shopping habits not meshing with the kind March 2012. There are now nine branches of Isetan Mirror, and Sakurai says the of shopping experience on offer. company hopes to have 20 to 30 in the near future. “Department stores have a strong power over the brands [they work with], Luxury brands themselves were also instrumental in getting the semi-self-selec- and from the beginning Sephora didn’t carry these [prestige] brands. They tion channel up and running. weren’t able to get a full product lineup,” says Tomomi Fujita, merchandiser for “Even in rural areas, Japanese department stores are closing, and the number In Clover, the luxury multibrand beauty retailer run by Sumitomo’s drugstore of stores remaining is decreasing,” says In Clover’s Fujita. “As the department store subsidiary, Tomod’s. business is becoming more difficult, the points of sale of international brands “The main reason [Sephora and Boots failed] was assortment, and secondly, have decreased. Of course, as points of sale decrease, so do sales, so now many people were not used to such a format,” agrees Takafumi Oba, general manager of brands are looking at new ways of selling their products, such as e-commerce and Nars Japan. “Maybe the brands were a bit conservative about those channels. And these types of new concept stores.”

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BB1410-PG30-WELL-Japanese Retail.a;15.indd 30 10/8/14 4:25 PM 10082014162655 GET READY FOR PLAYTIME

BB1410-PG30-WELL-Japanese Retail.a;15.indd 31 10/8/14 4:25 PM 10082014162714 MEET THE PLAYERS WHO’S WHO IN JAPAN’S INCREASINGLY COMPETITIVE SELF-SELECT CHANNEL. —K.W.

ISETAN MIRROR MILLION DOORS FRUIT GATHERING NUMBER OF STORES: 9 NUMBER OF STORES: 1 NUMBER OF STORES: 10 FIRST STORE OPENED: March 2012 at Shinjuku FIRST STORE OPENED: September 2012 at Kawasaki FIRST STORE OPENED: October 2011 at Hankyu Men’s station in Tokyo station outside Tokyo department store in Tokyo GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: High-traffic train stations GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: Expansion plans will focus on high- GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: Department stores, shopping and shopping malls in the greater Tokyo area traffic areas which have a large concentration of female malls and train stations in urban areas NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: About 20 office workers. NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: 33 plus several small TOP-SELLING BRANDS: RMK, Three and Addiction NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: About 25 accessory brands for makeup; Chanel and Dior for skin care TOP-SELLING BRANDS: Lancôme, Helena Rubenstein, TOP-SELLING BRANDS: Chanel, Sabón, C.O. Bigelow, RMK BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Color cosmetics at slightly Three, Addiction BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Skin and body care; the hair care lower price points, such as those by RMK and Three BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Skin-care products, foundation category is also growing very fast. EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: Opening five to six EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: Aiming for five to eight EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: Aiming to reach 30 stores stores per year in order to reach 20 to 30 stores in the stores over the next few years. in the near future. near future. KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: Designed to resemble an old Parisian KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: Depending on the location, Fruit KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: The name value and buying apartment, the store offers a “total beauty” experience, Gathering stores may carry a diverse range of products power behind Isetan has helped make the Mirror with an area modeled after a kitchen stocking body-care including makeup, treatment, fragrances and accessories; stores successful from the start, both with brands products, and daily items such as specialty toothbrushes, staff assist customers to put together customized gift sets and customers. body brushes and home fragrances. of related products from different brands.

COSME KITCHEN IN CLOVER COSMEME NUMBER OF STORES: 25 NUMBER OF STORES: 1 NUMBER OF STORES: 4 FIRST STORE OPENED: April 2004 at Daikanyama FIRST STORE OPENED: October 2012 at Kawasaki FIRST STORE OPENED: November 2011 in a shopping station in Tokyo station outside Tokyo mall outside Tokyo GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: High-traffic train stations, GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: A high-traffic train station GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: Aeon shopping malls in shopping malls and department stores across the building outside of Tokyo; looking to expand in similar suburban areas across the country country areas within Tokyo. NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: About 34 NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: About 80 NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: About 30 TOP-SELLING BRANDS: Chanel, Dior TOP-SELLING BRANDS: Weleda, F Organics, Giovanni TOP-SELLING BRANDS: Chanel, Dior, Clinique BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Foundation, skin care and BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Skin- and body-care products BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Color cosmetics, skin care, fragrances like Weleda’s White Birch Oil and hair care foundation EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: Aiming for 10 stores EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: Opening about five to EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: No set number of stores by 2016. 10 stores per year in the coming years. at the moment KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: As a subsidiary of Aeon, one of KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: After a less-than-stellar start as a KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: In addition to brand-specific Japan’s largest retailing groups, Cosmeme is focusing multibrand retailer of conventional cosmetics, Cosme displays, In Clover has created stations for popular solely on Aeon malls, which are popular shopping Kitchen found success by focusing exclusively on products such as foundation and mascara, where destinations for those living outside the cities. It is the only major multibrand retailer foregoing urban areas for

the small but growing niche of natural and organic customers can easily compare products from different Y UKIE M IYAZAKI BY PHOTOS KITCHEN AND COSME GATHERING FRUIT MIRROR, ISETAN beauty products. brands side by side. suburban ones.

BB1410-PG30-WELL-Japanese Retail.a;15.indd 32 10/8/14 4:25 PM 10082014162910 Approved with warnings Klaus Fassbender, president of L’Oréal Japan, which sells brands including the center of the store, where customers can sample scents from different brands; Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent, Shu Uemura and Clarisonic in these new-format chairs and tables dotted with magazines for waiting partners or family members, stores, is a strong supporter of the change: “We had been discussing with different and sinks for trying products like scrubs or Clarisonic’s cleansing devices. retailers about how to capture new customers to the luxury business. So our job was As multibrand beauty retailers become more and more prominent in Japan, to inspire a ‘new selective perfumery,’ which didn’t really exist in Japan, and then these kinds of differentiating factors are likely to become more important in order other luxury makers joined.” for the various chains to stand out from one another. Fassbender says that multibrand beauty stores aim to attract one of two types of “One trend which may be more prominent in the future is stores having a par- customers: either those living in suburban areas where there are no department ticular theme or specialized type of products, such as a focus on natural and organic stores, or younger customers who don’t normally shop at department stores. Be- products, imported products or whitening products,” Mitani says. cause of this strategy, brands and retailers alike agree that there is very little overlap Cosme Kitchen, a chain of stores that has been around for longer than most oth- in customers between department stores and multibrand stores. ers in this category, has already taken this route. After a rocky start as a multibrand “In Yokohama, we have a Takashimaya department store counter and also we retailer of conventional cosmetics, it took a chance and decided to focus exclusively have a Yokohama Sogo department store counter. And even though we got into on the small but growing niche of natural and organic beauty products. The chain FRUIT GATHERING Isetan Mirror in Lumine Yokohama, [our sales at] all three stores are growing,” now has 25 stores across Japan and yearly sales of about 4 billion yen, or about NUMBER OF STORES: 10 says Nars’ Oba. “Normally in those areas, when you expand with one more store, $36.8 million at current exchange rates. FIRST STORE OPENED: October 2011 at Hankyu Men’s cannibalization happens, but we haven’t had cannibalization. Based on the sales department store in Tokyo results, we think we [are gaining] new customers.” GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: Department stores, shopping But developing and growing these new retail formats hasn’t been without its malls and train stations in urban areas challenges. While companies like Isetan Mitsukoshi, Takashimaya and Hankyu 33 plus several small NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: Hanshin have had no problem convincing brands to sell in their new concept stores n many cases, the stores’ locations dictate the types of products they offer, accessory brands because of their existing relationships with these brands through their department as well as the kinds of customers who frequent them. The Fruit Gather- TOP-SELLING BRANDS: Chanel, Sabón, C.O. Bigelow, RMK stores, other retailers have found it more difficult. ing store in Shinagawa, for example, is located inside the station’s ticket BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Skin and body care; the hair care category is also growing very fast. “When we first opened, we didn’t have any domestic brands. The brands main- gates, meaning that many shoppers are either commuting home from EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: Aiming to reach 30 stores tained that because Tomod’s is a drugstore chain, it would be difficult [for us to work or transiting between a local train and a bullet train. Because of this, in the near future. succeed with prestige cosmetics],” says Fujita of In Clover. “It took about three years Akutagawa says that custom gift sets are very popular, both with men who KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: Depending on the location, Fruit to get Addiction into the store. Even though we’ve been negotiating with them since buy them for their wives, girlfriends or mothers, and with tourists from Gathering stores may carry a diverse range of products before we opened, [the brand] just entered the store recently.” other areas of Japan who buy them as souvenirs of their trip to Tokyo. including makeup, treatment, fragrances and accessories; Another obstacle is helping customers become comfortable with a style of shop- Conversely, the Fruit Gathering store in Shinjuku is situated directly staff assist customers to put together customized gift sets ping that may be unfamiliar to many of them. across the street from Isetan’s flagship department store, so most of the of related products from different brands. “At first, we had customers asking things like whether or not they could touch prestige brands declined to have a presence there. Unlike the Shinagawa location, the testers, or whether they could take the products from the drawers themselves the Shinjuku Fruit Gathering carries mostly body-care products by brands such as to bring them to the register,” says Akiko Akutagawa, director of Hankyu’s multi- C.O. Bigelow, Erbaviva and John Masters Organics. brand beauty chain Fruit Gathering, which has a very successful store in Tokyo’s ICosmeme stores are located in Aeon shopping malls in suburban areas, so many busy Shinagawa station. shoppers visit as couples or families. Tables are interspersed throughout the stores, “Japanese customers are very polite,” says Kikuko Fujita, president and chief ex- giving men a place to rest and wait. Cosmeme also sells a selection of high-end ecutive officer of Cosmeme. “One of our challenges is to make them feel comfortable men’s skin care, as well as fragrances for both men and women. While fragrances to test the products.” are still a very small part of the Japanese beauty market, Fujita says that they make One way that stores are putting customers at ease is by working with brands to of- up more than 10 percent of Cosmeme’s sales, namely because they are a product fer better explanations of their products on wall and counter displays. Without this, that couples enjoy sampling and purchasing together. it would be difficult for many Japanese customers to distinguish between a volumiz- The multibrand beauty stores located in dense urban areas, such as Isetan Mir- ing and a curling mascara, or even between a lip liner and an eyebrow pencil, based ror’s Shinjuku store, attract mostly younger women in their early 20s to 30s. For solely on the products’ packaging. many of these customers, these stores provide an entry point to luxury brands, such “This is the first time that luxury brands have given indications of what their as a Chanel lipstick. products are on the shop displays,” says Fujita of Cosmeme. “Until now [explana- Which categories perform well in this format also seems to depend largely on the COSMEME tions] were not written out clearly in Japanese, but with this, customers can under- stores’ locations. Those in urban centers report that color cosmetics sell well, while NUMBER OF STORES: 4 stand things on their own, and then ask if they want more information. If customers ones in more-suburban areas say skin care and base makeup perform better. FIRST STORE OPENED: November 2011 in a shopping know even just a little about the products, it’s easier to start a conversation [with a So far, semi-self-select beauty stores are finally enjoying success. Nars’ Oba and mall outside Tokyo salesperson].” L’Oréal’s Fassbender say the channel has been very beneficial to their brands, and GEOGRAPHIC DIVERSITY: Aeon shopping malls in In Clover has gone a step further and created themed stations for products such Hiroto Kitaki, brand manager of Kosé Corporation’s domestic makeup brand Ad- suburban areas across the country as foundation and mascara. At these stations, customers can easily compare simi- diction, says that sales have been “skyrocketing.” And while Euromonitor’s Mitani About 34 NUMBER OF BRANDS CARRIED: lar products from different brands, even across different price points. For example, contends that the relatively small number of these stores is unlikely to have much of TOP-SELLING BRANDS: Chanel, Dior products by lower-priced domestic brands like Three might sit next to international an effect on the market in general, there are positives to the emerging trend. BEST-SELLING PRODUCTS: Foundation, skin care and “The rise of this store format is injecting a new concept into the market and fragrances prestige brands such as Bobbi Brown or Givenchy. providing young consumers with more open, fun and less intimidating options to EXPECTED RATE OF EXPANSION: Aiming for 10 stores Million Doors aims to make customers feel comfortable by creating a homelike by 2016. atmosphere. Misato Sugiura, director, says the store near Kawasaki station outside shop,” Mitani says. “This does have the potential to change the retailing landscape KEY DIFFERENTIATOR: As a subsidiary of Aeon, one of of Tokyo is modeled after an old Parisian apartment—there is even a “kitchen” area in that some department stores are already launching standalone adviser services to ■ Japan’s largest retailing groups, Cosmeme is focusing where customers can sample body-care products. provide more objective recommendations versus brand-specific recommendations solely on Aeon malls, which are popular shopping “Customers want to be able to browse many brands in a relaxed way, without feel- which is currently the standard. Other department stores may seek to follow suit destinations for those living outside the cities. It is the ing pressured to buy something,” Sugiura says. and start similar recommendation services and multibrand options in response to only major multibrand retailer foregoing urban areas for IYAZAKI Y UKIE M IYAZAKI BY PHOTOS KITCHEN AND COSME GATHERING FRUIT MIRROR, ISETAN Other unique elements that set multibrand stores apart include fragrance bars in the increasing popularity of such cross-brand services.” ■ suburban ones. WWD BEAUTY INC 33

BB1410-PG30-WELL-Japanese Retail.a;15.indd 33 10/8/14 4:25 PM 10082014162930 Approved with warnings A dropped jar of Natura Bissé face cream was the unlikely catalyst that led to Jessica Richards becoming the hip young queen of the indie beauty scene. She had recently moved to Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, from Manhattan and realized there was no place local where she could replace it. She would I loved everything have to cross the East River. Richards, a about Delpozo— former fashion stylist, decided to rectify the clothes, matters herself. Thus was born Shen the hair, the makeup. Beauty, the meticulously curated beauty

boutique that, since its opening in 2010, BY RODARTE, STEPHEN SULLIVAN; BY PHOTOS PRODUCT GEORGE CHINSEE has gained a reputation for scouting out the latest and greatest brands from across the globe. Richards, who recently enlarged Shen’s service offerings and hopes to expand to Williamsburg in early 2015, has an equally unerring eye for the trends that resonate with her style-conscious customers and beyond. Pi We enlisted her to join us backstage at Je ve New York Fashion Week to cover the key directions for beauty next spring. Here’s how she’ll translate runway inspiration into retail sales. OBS, JEREMY SCOTT, VERA WANG, BY PORTRAIT WANG, VERA RICHARDS PHILLIP LEPORE, NANETTE KYLE IANNACCONE; DKNY, THOMAS BY JEREMY SCOTT, OBS, LIM, DELPOZO, ERICKSEN; DELPOZO

Jessica Richards RUNWAY DONNA HERRERA, CAROLINA , MARC KORS, MICHAEL KARAN, MARC JAC BY JESSICA RICHARDS, THE OWNER AND CREATIVE FORCE BEHIND BROOKLYN’S SHEN BEAUTY, HEADS BACKSTAGE DURING NEW YORK FASHION WEEK TO TRACK THE TRENDS HER CUSTOMERS WILL BE CLAMORING FOR COME SPRING. RADAR THE BLONDES PHOTOTHE BLONDES MAX AZARIA; RODIN BANICA; BY BCBG MISCHKA, BADGLEY 34 WWD BEAUTY INC

BB1410-PG34-WELL-Runway to Retail.a;19.indd 34 10/8/14 2:49 PM RODARTE

PHILLIP LIM

BOLD BROWS BADGLEY MISCHKA BCBG MAX AZARIA

Strong brows added a daring boldness. & Bone and BCBG Max Azaria. I think it adds a Badgley Mischka took the look to the next level gorgeous architecture to the face. My clients are by incorporating color tints like lilac; Rodarte very into brows—in the last two years, our business lined the brows in rings. I loved the beautifully has gone crazy. It’s virtually impossible to get an groomed, full natural brows at Jason Wu, Rag appointment at our Brow Bar right now.

BRAIDS Pigtail braids at LUMINOUS Jeremy Scott— Braids were a strong presence. (I’m always very Brooklyn! fascinated with a fishtail braid because I can’t do them myself—at all.) I loved, loved, loved what SKIN Micheal Kors did with braids—superloose and DONNA KARAN Luminous skin was almost coming undone, the look was so pretty and the biggest statement organic. A loose haphazard braid that still looks trending for makeup. chic—this we can all do! At Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch, Wes Gordon and Donna Karan, the skin was incredible. Alexander Wang VERA WANG actually brought in facialist Georgia Louise (her clients include Katie Perry and Gucci Westman) to give his models that freshly lifted, radiant glow. Georgia’s sculpting Butterfly Stones have been selling out in my shop. It’s about getting the circulation moving and is an easy thing for a client to do in front of the TV at night. For spring, I’ll educate my clients about choosing the right combination of face oil and makeup luminizer to create glowy skin. Already, sales of oils JEREMY SCOTT are up about 20 percent this year; spring’s glowy skin will drive it even more. DKNY Oil Luminizer LIP LIM, RODARTE, BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN; PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PRODUCT PHOTOS SULLIVAN; STEPHEN BY RODARTE, PHIL LIP LIM, LEPORE, NANETTE IANNACCONE; THOMAS BY PORTRAIT RICHARDS DKNY, DELPOZO, ERICKSEN; KYLE BY WANG, VERA JEREMY SCOTT, JACOBS, + = Glowy Skin

BUNS A mohawk Carolina Herrera showed us bun art—flawlessly smooth made out of and flatironed and then tied in a perfect knot. Wow. buns! How modern! Nanette Lepore also tied it up in style with a high knotted bun. I have a customer who needs to be able to pull it all together in the morning—a Mason Pearson brush with a styling product will slick back hair and make it easy to manipulate with your fingers. Y MARC MARC BY MICHAEL KORS, DONNA KARAN, CAROLINA HERRERA, BCBG,

MICHAEL KORS

R THE BLONDES

MARC BY MARC JACOBS THE BLONDES PHOTO BY RODIN BANICA; MAX AZARIA; BADGLEY MISCHKA, MISCHKA, BADGLEY MAX AZARIA; RODIN BANICA; BY PHOTO THE BLONDES NANETTE LEPORE CAROLINA HERRERA

BB1410-PG34-WELL-Runway to Retail.a;19.indd 35 10/8/14 2:50 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT This look is easy but edgy.

PONYTAILS Low ponytails swept me away. Pulling your hair back away from your face immediately makes you look more put-together. Our Tangle Teezer is a LLY, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, PAMELLA ROLAND, PETER SOM, JASON WU JASON SOM, PETER ROLAND, PAMELLA RODRIGUEZ, NARCISO LLY,

great tool to achieve a perfectly sleek CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTOS PRODUCT SULLIVAN; STEPHEN BY BURCH and smooth ponytail. I loved Delpozo’s hair on the runway, a superstraight DELPOZO pony bound low—beautiful, clean and modern. There’s also something sexy about that willowy look of loose pieces wisping around the face, almost like you’re not trying. Watching all the girls getting groomed backstage JASON WU ALTUZARRA made me realize the importance of styling products. I’ll bring in some new mousses, sprays and texturizing products to give my business a boost. THOM BROWNE

OSCAR DE LA RENTA PAMELLA ROLAND WES GORDON BY KYLE ERICKSEN; OSCAR DE LA RENTA BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; DELPOZO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; HONOR, LIBERTINE BY ROBERT MITRA; TORY TORY MITRA; ROBERT BY LIBERTINE HONOR, IANNACCONE; THOMAS BY GIANNONI; DELPOZO GIOVANNI BY DE LA RENTA OSCAR ERICKSEN; KYLE BY THOM BROWNE, BAJA EAST, WES GORDON PHOTOS BY RODIN BANICA; ALTUZARRA, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, JAY GODFREY, MICHAEL KORS, DEREK LAM, MI DEREK LAM, MICHAEL KORS, GODFREY, JAY OCHS, ET CUSHNIE ALTUZARRA, RODIN BANICA; BY GORDON PHOTOS WES EAST, BAJA THOM BROWNE,

Bec I discovered sha Treat in L.A. The of m consistency use of the polish is We amazing. a br con

EYELASHES ALTUZARRA MILLY DEREK LAM Eyelashes were a big standout. Altuzarra really got it right by placing individual lashes just in the Clean, groomed and often center of the upper and lower lash line. This is a I found these with a matte finish—the Shu Uemura understatement made a simple runway trick I’ll recommend for my clients lashes in Korea at home. It widens the eye to look more awake and bought statement when it came to nails. and adds definition to the face. For those who them all on the At Rodarte and Jay Godfrey, want more drama, I’ll recommend taking eyelash spot. the girls wore a natural nail look inspiration from Thom Browne, who maximized but with a small sliver of color a smoky eye look by doubling up on the eyelash along the cuticle line—a fun, track on the top lid and applying a single track easy accent for my clients. I also to the lower lash line. I plan on stocking up on JAY GODFREY CREATURES OF THE WIND TADASHI SHOJI loved the metallics this season, eyelashes and hosting makeup lessons in my because they complement any shop to be ready for this trend this spring. NATURAL VS. METALLIC color you wear. DER 36 WWD BEAUTY INC

BB1410-PG34-WELL-Runway to Retail.a;19.indd 36 10/8/14 2:51 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT This cat eye is supercool, perfect for the younger Williamsburg set. EPHEN SULLIVAN; BY PHOTOS PRODUCT GEORGE CHINSEE Y, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, PAMELLA ROLAND, PETER SOM, JASON WU JASON SOM, PETER ROLAND, PAMELLA RODRIGUEZ, NARCISO Y,

CUSHNIE ET OCHS DELPOZO

HONOR LIBERTINE

MICHAEL KORS

NATURAL BEAUTY BY KYLE DE LA RENTA OSCAR ERICKSEN; BY LIBERTINE HONOR, GIOVANNI IANNACCONE; THOMAS BY ROBERT GIANNONI; DELPOZO BY MITRA; TORY BURCH BY ST THOM BROWNE, BAJA EAST, WES GORDON PHOTOS BY RODIN BANICA; ALTUZARRA, CUSHNIE ET OCHS, JAY GODFREY, MICHAEL GODFREY, MILL DEREK LAM, KORS, JAY OCHS, ET CUSHNIE ALTUZARRA, RODIN BANICA; BY GORDON PHOTOS THOM WES EAST, BAJA BROWNE, I always love to see a natural look coming down the runway. Even though I know a stylist meticulously moussed and ironed each casual- Because of its looking wave, I’m still inspired by the easiness of it all. The tawniness shade, most of my girls of the makeup enhances everybody’s skin tone. James Read makes use this Kjaer an overnight sleep-mask tan which everyone is buying. It’s clear and NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PETER SOM Weis blush as doesn’t smell, so people are inclined to buy it, and when you wake up, a bronzer or for it makes you one shade darker. contouring. THE EYE, DEFINED Eyeliner was everywhere—softly smudged here, thick and roughly drawn there, even used as bright pops of color. For my clients, it will be an easy way to inject playfulness into their makeup routines. I’ve already seen some great options for spring, such as By Terry’s eye-shadow pencils (they double as eyeliners) in superfun colors. ls. ok so n, y

DEREK LAM TORY BURCH BAJA EAST WWD BEAUTY INC 37

BB1410-PG34-WELL-Runway to Retail.a;19.indd 37 10/8/14 2:51 PM LAST CALL

I went to St. Barth’s When I started, you It was New York, prior to fashion week didn’t do fashion week— 1992. Calvin Klein. I didn’t for holiday. I was riding you did one show. That was know how it worked. I had a bike down some hilly Martine Sitbon, and it was never assisted anyone roads and I saw these her first show, too. I didn’t before and I never had two really cute girls. (It know people worked with assistants, so I brought was obviously when I was a team of assistants, so I everything for products. much younger and fitter.) just asked a friend. We did It was classic early Calvin I decided to turn the bike all 25 girls. When Martine makeup, which was a around and ask them invited me to her house to little bit of lipstick on the out and I drove straight watch the show four days bridge of the nose and into the side of a hill and later, she said, ‘You know, cheeks and some Vaseline broke my foot. So I was on you looked so frantic. on the eyes. We were crutches for my very first The girls looked great, but ready about two hours Prada show. The morning most people work with a before the show.” of the show, I woke up and whole team of assistants.’ DICK PAGE clipped my foot on a brass I was like, ‘Ohhh. That’s doorstop and broke my how they do it.’” other foot. I didn’t end up ORLANDO PITA at Prada.” I traveled very heavily, EUGENE SOULEIMAN with tons of bags. I was LAST CALL pulling them out of the car I went to do a hair when I was doing a show IN THE BEGINNING... test, introducing myself in Paris, and a guy tried to I was assisting to the designer and all the run off with one of them. I WHO COULD FORGET THEIR FIRST? Linda Cantello at Chloé. people who were there. FASHION WEEK, THAT IS. ANNA DYSINGER started screaming, but the I was a new kid on the TRAVELS BACK IN TIME WITH SOME I spent 10 minutes telling bag was so heavy that he HAIR AND MAKEUP SUPERSTARS. block. No one knew me, them what I thought staggered and then just fell and models want to go the hair should be. They over. He left the bag there.” to people they know and listened, then finally said, PAT MCGRATH trust. I’d been asking the ‘Anthony, we didn’t book models if I could do their you for this show.’ makeup, and everybody I had the wrong address. kept saying no. I was My test was two blocks My first season, depressed. I went to the away.” everyone kept asking me, buffet, and when I came ANTHONY TURNER ‘What shows have you back, Christy Turlington done? What shows do was sitting at my station. you always do?’ I just kept Stupid enough, I said, ‘Are saying, ‘Oh, you know...,’ you waiting for Linda?’ I was assisting trying not to answer. Even She said ‘No,’ and then Pat McGrath in Milan. I Tommy Hilfiger asked I just stood there. hadn’t slept in two days me. I remember thinking, Finally, she said, ‘Well, you and I was exhausted— ‘Sh-t!.’ Orlando Pita was could start my makeup.’ I didn’t even know where doing the hair, and he saw I started shaking.” I was. She came over and me freaking out. He came TOM PECHEUX said, ‘You wanted to work over at the end and patted with Pat McGrath? me on the back and said, Now you know.’ It was at ‘We made it.’” that moment when I was GUCCI WESTMAN like, ‘Wow, so this is what it’s really like.’” YADIM

PHOTOGRAPH BY KYLE ERICKSEN

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