ALL ALAIA DESIGNER AZZEDINE ALAIA I THE PARIS SHOWS KICK OFF IS IN THE SPOTLIGHT I DESIGNERS BEHIND THE SCENES WITH A NEW BOUTIQUE AND AN EXHIBITION I BUYERS WEIGH IN ON MILAN IN THE WORKS. PAGE 2

WESTERN EXPANSION Chinese Designers Seek Higher Profi le

By KATHLEEN MCLAUGHLIN

BEIJING — A new wave of Chinese designers is pushing into Western markets, particularly Europe and especially Paris. Their motive is not only to attract foreign custom- THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ers but also to build credibility among Chinese con- sumers, who rely on what’s hot in Paris and Milan to WWD help drive their own choices. It’s no secret that Chinese luxury buyers have be- come highly prized in the past fi ve years for their pen- chant for travel shopping, including buying trips to Paris and other destinations. The travel retail scene has made establishing a presence outside of China a vital strategy for homegrown designers and brands. The power of China’s buyers is massive and increas- ing. And despite concerns over cooling periods and guarded economic growth, China will potentially grow

CHINA’S MOST SOUGHT-AFTER LUXURY BRANDS. PAGE 8

to account for one-fi fth of the global luxury market by 2015, according to a recent report from McKinsey & Co. The consultancy also noted that Chinese design- ers are lagging far behind their foreign counterparts in terms of sales and draw. By setting footprints in Paris and Beijing, designers like Shandong-born, Paris-based Laurence Xu and others are looking to catch up. Xu, who has until now focused on an exclusive clientele, is preparing for his fi rst runway show on July 4 during Paris couture season. Shiatzy Chen also shows in Paris and has retail shops in Paris, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau — some of the shopping destinations for wealthy Mainland Chinese. SEE PAGE 8

Italia Independent Shares To Begin Trading Friday

Channeling Schiap By LUISA ZARGANI It’s one of couture week’s most anticipated MILAN — Italia Independent Group SpA on Friday events: On Monday, Christian Lacroix will will make its debut on the AIM Italia Alternative unveil 18 ensembles in tribute to the late Capital Market, a segment of the Italian Stock Elsa Schiaparelli as part of ’s Exchange for small and medium-size companies. The company, controlled by Lapo Elkann, will list 27 plan to revive the legendary fashion house. percent of its total shares, priced at 26 euros ($33.65), The onetime collection, including this magical with a market capitalization of 60 million euros, or lobster illustrated by Lacroix, will not be $77.7 million at current exchange. “This is not merely a starting point but a signal of for sale, though, and was made solely to be serenity,” chief executive offi cer Andrea Tessitore, who exhibited in Paris. As Lacroix put it, “It’s as founded the company with Elkann seven years ago, told WWD. “We have ambitious plans, and the path to if it was a musical about Schiaparelli, and the listing has been a very formative experience for I’m in charge of the .” For more our team. In structuring the company, we’ve all grown on Schiaparelli, see pages 4 and 5. together, with an enormous effort,” explained the ex- ecutive, adding that he felt “proud and happy.” The offer was oversubscribed three times, with 40 percent of investors from abroad. Tessitore put the spotlight on what this initial public offering marks. “It shows that even a small fi rm, with a well-prepared management and clear ideas, can attract investors from all over the world. It’s not true that inves- tors from outside don’t want to invest in our coun- try, but they set the bar higher, they need to be reassured that a plan will be brought to execution,” said Tessitore. He admitted that during the road show, in cities such as Paris, London and Geneva, the size of Italia SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013

Alaïa on Exhibit, Store Openings the Briefing Box in october, alaïa plans to open laurent and , slated to By Miles socha a flagship at 5 Rue de Marignan. open during couture week. in Today’s WWd he said the main floor would be alaïa has tapped many of his PaRis — azzedine alaïa, who dedicated to accessories and design and artist buddies — in- toils away at his Rue de Moussy , with ready-to-wear show- cluding Marc Newson, Martin headquarters in the Marais dis- cased over two upper floors. szekely and Kris Ruhs — to cre- trict, is spreading his wings fur- The 18th-century town- ate lighting and furniture for the ther in Paris. house, a stone’s throw from the imposing store. This fall, a retrospective exhibi- tony tree-lined avenue that is he said he would keep his tion of his designs to mark the re- home to designer stores includ- historic Paris retail location at opening of the Musée Galliera will ing christian , Nina Ricci, 7 Rue de Moussy, which has no spread to a second site, the Musée Prada, Valentino, chanel and window display and buzzes in d’art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, Fendi, will also house adminis- shoppers and couture clients. including its famous salle Matisse, tration and accounting functions. During an interview in his the designer told WWD. “it’s going to become the sprawling kitchen, a pony-sized The modern art museum is second avenue Montaigne,” st. Bernard dog sprawled at his located roughly across the street alaïa predicted of the Rue de feet, alaïa said he’s already at homas Iannaccone t from the Galliera, which has Marignan, which runs roughly work on his first signature per- A resort look from

been closed for renovation for parallel with the premier luxury fume, having inked a 13-year fra- Anna Sui. For more, several years. strip, emanating from between grance and cosmetics license with see WWD.com. Photo by Beauté Prestige international. The first alaïa fragrance is ex- pected to hit the market in 2015. A new wave of Chinese designers is pushing out into Western The brand, long prized by spe- markets, particularly Europe and most especially Paris. Page 1

cialty stores for its strong sell- through, has enjoyed a renais- Italia Independent Group SpA will make its debut on the sance in recent years, making him a go-to designer for models, art AIM Italia Alternative Capital Market on Friday. Page 1 dealers and fashion professionals. Naomi campbell, among his Designer Jean-Louis Scherrer — who passed away June 20 at age 78 — was remembered at an intimate service in ’’ inner circle, was recently in town shooting an editorial with pho- Paris Wednesday. Page 3 tographer Dominique issermann, the designer related. Kate Moss will appear in a film that will accompany Stuart While owned since 2007 Weitzman’s fall campaign. Page 3 by luxury group compagnie Financière Richemont sa, par- Christian Lacroix on Monday will help kick off couture ent of cartier, chloé, Dunhill week in Paris by displaying 18 ensembles he designed as a and other brands, alaïa retains a onetime tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli. Page 4 fiercely independent spirit. To wit: The designer took sharp George Zimmer sent an open letter to “The Men’s hane Feugere P exception to remarks by retail vet- Wearhouse Family” that attempted to clarify his position in te

s eran Dawn Mello that were pub- the highly public battle with the firm he founded. Page 6 lished in WWD on May 21. Mello said Martha “Marty” hoto by American football player Victor Cruz, accompanied by his P Wikstrom — who resigned her longtime girlfriend Elaina Watley, was the top celebrity draw role as chief executive offi- cer of Richemont Fashion and at the Valentino men’s show on Wednesday. Page 7 accessories, a role she had been in since 2009 — had “launched French tabloid sensation Zahia Dehar is teaming with It’s going to become the azzedine alaïa in the U.s. and real- Cameron Silver for the U.S. launch of her couture and ready- ly built the brand internationally.” to-wear collections. Page 7 second Avenue Montaigne. alaïa said Wikstrom “launched nothing and built The Milan men’s collections offered enough novelty to — Azzedine AlAiA’s prediction nothing” for him, noting that keep retailers happy at a time when men are becoming of the rue de MArignAn. his brand has been present in increasingly demanding and sophisticated. Page MW1 america since the early eighties, when he staged fashion shows today opened his first signature boutique alaïa said the sprawling exhibi- the fashion canteen l’avenue at Bergdorf Goodman and the at 16 Rue Saint-Roch in Paris. Page MW2 tion, curated by olivier saillard, is and the céline boutique, Palladium nightclub. to showcase as many as 100 - which is moving to the avenue he added that the U.s. re- Gildo Zegna discusses the future of Ermenegildo Zegna es, all culled from his personal ar- Montaigne and will replaced by mains his largest market, and and going upscale. Page MW2 chive. Precise opening dates and Dior homme. he has partnered for years with other details of the showcase have alaïa praised the environs retailers including Barneys Coach has tapped Billy Reid for its latest collaboration, yet to be finalized, but it is sure to as one of true luxury. indeed, New York, saks Fifth avenue, a capsule collection of men’s and women’s bags and be a headline event on the fall cul- the avenue Montaigne boasts Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman accessories that will hit retail in September. Page MW2 tural calendar. new flagships for chanel, saint Marcus, Maxfield and ikram. on WWD.CoM

’’ RESORT -UP: After nearly two months of resort Fake Sites Seized in Trans-Atlantic Takedown appointments, presentations and runway shows, WWD undercover purchases from nine Department of Justice,” said Mark distills the season’s best trend. For more, see WWD.com. By KRisTi ellis U.s. trademark holders from the Witzal, deputy director of the iPR sites, including Nike, Tiffany, center. “in order to go after these WashiNGToN — authorities NFl, National Basketball criminals who are duping un- To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is in the U.s. and european Union association and National hockey suspecting shoppers all over the [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. seized 328 domain names asso- league merchandise. once the world, these international part- COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 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w27a002a;12.indd 2 6/26/13 7:49 PM 06262013195018 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 3 WWD.COM Jean-Louis Scherrer Remembered ing “Fondation Pierre Resort 2014 By ALEX WYNNE Bergé” bearing witness to Grumbach’s statement. PARIS — Whether in his Scherrer worked with professional or personal Bergé’s business partner, McQ Alexander Viktor & Rolf life, according to those Yves Saint Laurent, at Dior McQueen who knew him well, Jean- in his early days as a designer. Louis Scherrer had a way “Scherrer has left a trace of lighting up those he en- [on fashion], like Ungaro, countered, creating a spe- like Saint Laurent. It is in- Jean-Charles cial “spark” that brought scribed in history,” said de Castelbajac out the best in others. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, That word arose sev- describing Scherrer as a eral times in tributes man with “a huge heart.” to the designer — who “He was an exemplary passed away June 20 at man, very courageous, age 78 — given by former he had that tenacity a employees and acquain- designer needs, because tances at an intimate ser- talent is not enough, you vice in the crematorium also need determination,” of Père Lachaise cem- he added. “That was etery here Wednesday. something that you also THERME PASCAL Didier Grumbach, Didier found in his silhouette, in president of the Chambre Grumbach his work, the precise sil- Syndicale, French fash- houette, the narrow bust, ion’s governing body, led PHOTOS BY the pointed shoulders.” the tributes, describing Scherrer’s career Actress Mireille Darc sat alongside and the troubles faced by the house that Scherrer’s family members, including bore his name. “I’m sorry to tell stories his former wife Laurence. that are not very personal, but his work “He was one of the last representa- was important to him. Jean-Louis was tives of the great era of couture, of el- very attached to his profession,” he said. egance, opulence and refinement,” said To the left of the pale wood cof- Stéphane Rolland, who designed Jean- fin stood a giant bouquet of white Louis Scherrer couture collections for a roses with a ribbon across it read- decade starting in 1998.

years ago and, even then, Moss was at MEMO PAD the forefront of his mind for the brand. “Five, 10 years ago, before we knew about Stuart Weitzman and about this MOSS GATHERING: Kate Moss can certainly film, we had this idea for a film with draw a crowd. On the day of her shoot Kate Moss strutting to ‘These in London for a film to accompany the Were Made for Walkin’.’ We just didn’t fall campaign for Stuart Weitzman, know where we would ever use it.” the paparazzi followed her from home And now Moss is strutting down and encamped outside the Kensington a London street, on a typically gray house where she was based for the day. afternoon, in thigh-high gray suede Surprisingly, there appears to be a boots, an Afghan fur coat and not taut sense of respect from both parties. much else for a film that is being FOR MORE “I’m smoking again,” she threw over directed by Balthazar Klarwein, a former IMAGES, SEE a shoulder as she stepped outside for Testino protégé. In the film, which, yet another Marlboro Lights cigarette. like the campaign, is shot in black- WWD.com/ At which the paps dutifully acquiesced and-white, Moss the superstar is in runway. and lowered their lenses, prepared to the back of a Rolls-Royce that is stuck wait for a shot that would please both in thick London traffic. Late for her appointment, Moss steps from the car and makes her way on foot, and encounters various Tsumori McQ Alexander McQueen: McQ Alexander McQueen creative London archetypes on her way, Chisato director Sarah Burton turned to Nineties London punk all of whom rubberneck to get a to capture a rebellious spirit for resort. For example, glimpse at her — and her boots. she used an arrow motif for everything from The print campaign will to bondage , while D-rings on a and break in August issues and be foiled added to the punkish vibe. Burton was supported by the omnichannel simultaneously inspired by men’s wear influences of digital campaign, which the Twenties and Thirties, with tailored looks, tuxedo includes the film. It will be elements and miniature cross jacquard fabrics. Several edited into several lengths, and had a tassel detail; and WEITZMAN OF STUART PHOTO COURTESY from 30 seconds to four were dramatically draped, and a tuxedo came Kate Moss behind the scenes on the Stuart Weitzman minutes, and be revealed on in a minidress design. There were also still plenty of campaign shoot with Mario Testino. multiple platforms globally. updates on signature McQ pieces such as the bomber camps — and making do with shots of — JULIA NEEL jackets and an embroidered sweatshirt. Moss’ body double. “The look is all about and SUPE TALK: Jason Wu clearly likes to Viktor & Rolf: School girls — their shrunken blazers, crisp big furry coats, lots of texture,” said take supermodels to iconic New white cotton , pleated or Bermuda — Moss of the look for the film, which York eateries. After his spring were the main inspiration for Viktor Horsting and Rolf will be used in a significant digital campaign featured Stephanie Seymour Snoeren, who wanted a “fresh, young and clean” look campaign to support the still campaign, at La Grenouille, Wu tapped Christy for resort. The duo, no strangers to frills, worked a more which was shot by Mario Testino. Turlington for his fall ads, this time graphic and minimal vibe with large sculptural flounce “Using Kate is a major investment setting the scene at Mr Chow uptown. hems on short dresses, coats and miniskirts. Tailoring for us,” said chief marketing officer Photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde featured tie motifs like club stripes and polka dots, Susan Duffy. “Everything else in the and Vinoodh Matadin and art directed while embroidered Swiss florals on a silk organza dress digital activation [of the campaign] is by Patrick Li, the images will launch in had a girly sensibility. Zipper intarsia sweaters added a big dollars. But now is the the fall editions of Love, cartoonish note. The designers also introduced a bridal time to do it. We have a lot Tank, Self Service and capsule of six looks, such as a sleeveless and of traction. For the first The Gentlewoman. The frilly dresses in pure white. part of the year we had designer and the supe success in quite a difficult clearly hit it off. “It was Tsumori Chisato: Inspired by a trip to Venice, Tsumori economy.” According to great getting to meet and Chisato created a whimsical universe with sea creatures Wayne Kulkin, Weitzman’s spend some time with and nostalgic, foggy views of the city’s Grand Canal for ad budget has increased Jason,” Turlington said. resort. Chisato, who loves a good animal pattern, had by 50 percent for three Added Wu, “I’ve been a seaweed, coral branch, seashell and octopus motifs on seasons running, in line huge fan of Christy and light cotton dresses and Sixties-inspired trenchcoats. with increasing revenues. was so delighted that she The Italian city also provided several arty influences, Duffy hired David agreed to appear in my including a print that directly referenced Monet’s Lipman, managing partner fall campaign. She brings “Nymphaea,” and another informed by the work of Peggy and chief creative such inimitable charisma Guggenheim’s artist daughter Pegeen Vail Guggenheim, officer of his namesake Jason Wu in a fall ad with and chic to the image.” which the designer used on chiffon dresses. advertising firm, two Christy Turlington. — MARC KARIMZADEH 4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — “Schiaparelli is such an inspiration for all of us.” That’s quite a statement, es- pecially coming from Christian Lacroix, one of the most ac- claimed and original couturiers of his generation, and a man with near-encyclopedic knowledge of history. On Monday, the 62-year-old Frenchman will help kick off cou- ture week in Paris by displaying 18 ensembles he designed as a onetime tribute to the late Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, whose label is being revived by Diego Della Valle, who controls Tod’s Group. It’s a comeback steeped in anticipation — and tinged with irony as Lacroix will display his creations in the same salons at Les Arts Décoratifs where he pa- raded his final collection in July 2009, after which his couture house was reduced to a licensing operation and he moved on to a thriving career designing stage costumes, exhibitions, hotels and even tramways. In an exclusive interview at Schiaparelli’s salons overlook- ing the Place Vendôme, Lacroix spoke excitedly about the project, describing in detail his first brush with Schiaparelli’s legendary style and articulating her place in the global fashion firmament. A native of Arles in the South of France, Lacroix was all of 12 when he clambered into his great aunt’s attic and discovered her leather- bound cache of fashion magazines from the Thirties and Forties. He fell upon a fashion shoot done in fall 1939 as war was en- veloping Europe. He described a set designed to resemble a bomb shelter, inhabited by a “glamor- ous” woman wielding a flashlight and dressed in a Schiaparelli jumpsuit here, a classic knit there, or an evening ensemble with a curtain of sequins unfurl- ing from the lining. “I love that — how to be witty, spirited, elegant, Parisian, even during the war,” he said. “Colors, Channeling ribbons, whimsical — ev- erything I love is coming mainly from her.” Lacroix became one of the defining fashion figures of the Eighties and early Nineties, known for his pouf skirts, opulent fabric mixes and baroque buttons and jewelry. He made his name at Jean before , chairman of LVMH Moët Schiap , created a couture house just for him in 1987. The heady early years — land- CHRISTIAN LACROIX CREATED A ONE-OFF TRIBUTE TO ELSA SCHIAPARELLI IN TIME FOR COUTURE. ing the cover of Time’s European edition and cameos on “Absolutely Fabulous” —were eventually sup- planted by struggles: a revolving door of chief executive officers and strategies; a river of red ink; a sale in 2005 to Florida duty-free operators Falic Group, and, ulti- mately, a bankruptcy filing. “It was so painful, the end of the couture house, when I had to fight more than sketch,” he recalled. Ye t Lacroix, dressed in a pin-striped denim jacket and over pants the color of Limoncello, is sanguine about this brief moment back in the fashion spotlight. Indeed, the Schiaparelli tribute collection and exhibition exempli- fies what he loves about his post- couture career, working in an area “something between theater and museums,” and with his designs placed in a broader context than PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHE ROUE just the latest season or trend. WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 5 WWD.COM

“it’s as if it was a musical about together in a nowadays way.” By Miles socha schiaparelli, and i’m in charge of it’s plain lacroix relishes his

the costumes,” he said, erupting in burgeoning career outside the PaRis — “schiaparelli is such an chuckles. fashion industry, having found in inspiration for all of us.” lacroix will present the dresses stage clothes and exhibitions the That’s quite a statement, es- on mannequins with faces etched perfect forum to indulge his pas- pecially coming from christian to resemble schiaparelli herself. sion for history married to the con- lacroix, one of the most ac- Visitors will arrive at a cagelike in- temporary world. as he put it, “My claimed and original couturiers stallation recalling the fantasy pas- feet in the archives, but my eyes, of his generation, and a man with sageway that Jean-Michel Frank my mind, my nose, my ears in the near-encyclopedic knowledge of built for schiaparelli’s first bou- here and now.” costume history. tique in 1935. lacroix said he finds designing on Monday, the 62-year-old The collection was strictly cre- for the stage more rewarding than Frenchman will help kick off ated for the exhibition and won’t for boutiques or private clients, couture week in Paris by dis - be sold at retail. after the three- ’’ because the clothes contribute playing 18 ensembles he de- day showcase, which is by invita- to a character, a narrative and a signed as a one-time tribute to tion only, the collection can be mood summoned by characters the late italian designer elsa viewed by appointment at Maison and a director. schiaparelli, whose label is being schiaparelli at 21 Place Vendôme “a dress supporting a voice, a revived by Diego Della Valle, who in Paris. lacroix will return to skill, an actor, a ballet. i like when controls Tod’s Group. his multitude of operas, ballets my work is contributing to some- it’s a comeback steeped in and exhibitions, paving the way thing, and i love when it’s shared anticipation — and tinged with for a permanent creative director with unknown people.” irony as lacroix will display his to arrive at schiaparelli. Now settled into a rhythm of creations in the same salons at as reported first in WWD, Marco two or three major productions a les arts Décoratifs where he pa- Zanini, an italian designer who cut year, lacroix is likely designing raded his final collection in July his teeth at Versace and halston more clothes than ever. 2009, after which his couture and who has been at the creative For example, for Richard house was reduced to a licensing helm of Rochas since 2008, is ex- Wagner’s “lohengrin,” opening operation and he moved on to a pected to fill the post, completing in september at opera Graz in thriving career designing stage the re-launch story some seven austria, he is creating 150 cos- costumes, exhibitions, hotels and years after Della Valle acquired the tumes for the chorus that will unite even tramways. schiaparelli trademark and archive You couldn’t help being impressed by her daring. on the stage, each a unique confec- in an exclusive interview at via a personal holding, Diego Della tion executed in white and embel- schiaparelli’s salons overlook- Valle & c. s.a. P. a. She was always inspired by the history of costume, lished with frills, lace and feathers. ing the Place Vendôme, lacroix The company recently said The number and variety of spoke excitedly about the project, that a number of creative types and ethnic clothing. Without being pretentious, other projects on his plate is daz- describing in detail his first brush — it could be a painter, a photog- zling. among them: with schiaparelli’s legendary style rapher, a sculptor, a movie direc- n Designing costumes for and articulating her place in the tor — would continue to celebrate it’s exactly the way I like to do fashion. christoph Willibald Gluck’s global fashion firmament. schiaparelli and provide their in- “ezio,” opening in october at oper a native of arles in the south of terpretation on an annual basis. — CHRISTIAN LACROIX Frankfurt. France, lacroix was all of 12 when Born in Rome in 1890, n curating an exhibition next he clambered into his great aunt’s schiaparelli was seen as a key year about the 18th century, with attic and discovered her leather- rival of Gabrielle chanel in fashion curator olivier saillard, at bound cache of fashion magazines the Thirties and was known for Musée cognacq-Jay in Paris. from the Thirties and Forties. designs heavily influenced by n overseeing the scenography he fell upon a fashion shoot surrealist art, such as her for the Museon arlaten, which is done in fall 1939 as war was en- and Tears dress. she closed undergoing renovation slated for veloping europe. he described a her Paris house in 1954 and completion in 2014 or 2015. set designed to resemble a bomb died in 1973. n Designing a range of , shelter, inhabited by a “glamor- The brand, dormant for de- jewelry and ceramics that will be ous” woman wielding a flashlight cades, gained major expo- sold in the louvre boutique for its and dressed in a schiaparelli sure in 2012 when New York’s new wing devoted to islamic art. jumpsuit here, a classic knit suit Metropolitan Museum of art hosted ’’ n Designing two more Paris ho- there, or an evening ensemble the exhibition “schiaparelli and tels — one on Rue de charonne in with a curtain of sequins unfurl- Prada: impossible conversations” the trendy Bastille area, another ing from the lining. at the costume institute. not far from the Meurice on Rue “i love that — how to be witty, lacroix said it was easy to say du Mont-Thabor — plus the hôtel spirited, elegant, Parisian, even “yes” to Della Valle, since he has Jules césar in arles, and a hotel during the war,” he said. “colors, known him since the late seventies. and restaurant in abu Dhabi. ribbons, whimsical hats — ev- They met when lacroix was an as- n creating costumes for a produc- erything i love is coming mainly sistant at Guy Paulin and Della tion of Gaetano Donizetti’s “la from her.” Valle produced shoes for Paulin. Favorite” at Théâtre du capitole lacroix became one of the “i was even sleeping at his in Toulouse in February 2014. defining fashion figures of the mother’s place when i was staying n Designing carpets for the Musée eighties and early Nineties, there for work. i saw his son being Galliera, which is due to open known for his pouf skirts, opulent born,” lacroix related. this fall after a long renovation. fabric mixes and baroque buttons For the schiaparelli tribute, the lacroix’s creations will be fea- and jewelry. he made his name designer focused on her defining tured on the stairs, in the library at Jean Patou before Bernard silhouettes, including the hour- and on several floors of offices. arnault, chairman of lVMh Moët glass, a-line, sari and bustle. n overseeing the scenography hennessy louis Vuitton, created a “it was an opportunity to go to for the Roman amphitheater in couture house just for him in 1987. the quintessential, to the core,” he arles, including frescoes for the The heady early years — land- explained. ViP areas and medieval towers — ing the cover of Time’s european lacroix’s dresses, coats, which will showcase equestrian edition and cameos on “absolutely and trouser ensembles were real- arts from europe’s best schools Fabulous” —were eventually sup- ized in a series of ateliers in italy, this summer. planted by struggles: a revolving with a dozen seamstresses converg- “arles is my favorite customer,” door of chief executive officers ing on Paris for the final touches. he said. “This is also my faithful- and strategies; a river of red ink; asked if schiaparelli cast a ness to my childhood, when i was a sale in 2005 to Florida duty-free long shadow on his signature so in love with my town. i do it for operators Falic Group, and, ulti- work, lacroix replied: “always. pleasure, not to be famous, but just mately, a bankruptcy filing. sometimes it was not conscious. to pay back what that city gave me.” “it was so painful, the end of i think we were really the same, he suddenly remembers an- the couture house, when i had from the Mediterranean, latin other commission: Recently, the to fight more than sketch,” he people fascinated by Paris. owner of the giant e.leclerc super- recalled. “she loved collage, i loved market chain came to him, offering Ye t lacroix, dressed in a collage,” he said, gazing up at a carte blanche to mount an exhibi- pin-striped denim jacket and painting by Marcel Vertès, just tion at a contemporary art space in waistcoat over pants the color of installed over the mirrored fire- an old monastery in landerneau, limoncello, is sanguine about place in the main salon, butter- Brittany. it’s the kind of project this brief moment back in the flies in bell jars standing in the that gets lacroix dreaming. fashion spotlight. firebox rather than logs. “This year was the fullest i indeed, the schiaparelli tribute “ Yo u couldn’t help being im- have ever had in my life,” he said. collection and exhibition exempli- pressed by her daring,” lacroix “i’m full of gratitude, pleasure. fies what he loves about his post- marveled. “she was always in- i should have left couture earlier,” couture career, working in an area spired by the history of costume, he said, his face sprouting a know- “something between theater and and ethnic clothing. Without being ing grin. “i think i was made for pretentious, it’s exactly the way doing this scenography. i’m a kind museums,” and with his designs a behind-the-scenes look at Christian Lacroix i like to do fashion, mixing coun- of director or scenographer for placed in a broader context than working on the schiaparelli tribute collection. just the latest season or trend. tries and periods and putting them daily life.”

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6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013

Zimmer Offers Sharp Rebuke of MW View of Board Battle stakeholders. Earlier this year, concerned out likely. Shares of Men’s Wearhouse “We would hope that if/after the By JEAN E. PALMIERI with the board’s response to the short- Wednesday slid 28 cents, or 0.75 percent, K&G sale is complete, management term pressures of Wall Street, I encour- to $36.85 as two analysts, Richard Jaffe of would publicly articulate to the Street Stifel Nicolaus and Brian Tunick of J.P. its three-year growth plans and the dif- GEORGE ZIMMER fired the latest aged the board to at least study a broader ’’ salvo against his former company on range of strategic alternatives beyond sim- Morgan, weighed in with that opinion. ferent drivers it plans to use to enhance Wednesday, sending an open letter to “The ply selling the K&G division, including the Tunick based his view on a meeting shareholder value between its diverse Men’s Wearhouse Family” that attempted possibility of a going-private transaction. Tuesday in which Ewert and chief fi- U.S., Canadian and U.K. operations.” to clarify his position in the increasingly “Rather than thoughtfully evaluating nancial officer Jon Kimmins reiterated Tunick estimated that a sale of K&G public battle with the retail firm he found- the idea or even checking the market to see the company is not for sale and “be- would likely value it at no more than $100 ed and helmed for nearly 40 years. what value might be created through such sides Mr. Zimmer, all board members million and that earnings for the year A week after his stunning, unprecedent- strategic alternatives,” he continued, “the endorse the company’s operating strat- would be $2.72 per share with the lower- ed termination, Zimmer said the board is board quickly and without the assistance of egy, including the sale of K&G.” end division and 10 cents less without it. characterizing him as “an obstinate former financial advisers simply rejected the idea, Tunick acknowledged that Zimmer A source close to the company said ceo, determined to regain absolute control refused to even discuss the topic or permit could link with any number of private eq- Wednesday that although Zimmer had by pushing a going-private transaction for me to collect and present to the board any in- uity firms and return to the company as handpicked Ewert, who spent a decade at my own personal benefit and ego. Nothing formation about its possibilities and feasibil- an owner-operator. But he cautioned that Macy’s before joining Men’s Wearhouse in could be further from the truth.” ity, and instead took steps to marginalize and leveraged buyouts “in the retail space 1995, to be his successor, the relationship On Tuesday, The Men’s Wearhouse then silence me.” over the past few years have almost all started to deteriorate last year. Although Inc. said that when the company would This behavior, he stated, “does not strike been management-friendly” and have Zimmer’s understanding was that Ewert not allow him “veto power over signifi- me as consistent with sound principles of cant corporate decisions,” Zimmer began good corporate governance or the core val- talking to investment banking firms about ues of The Men’s Wearhouse, but instead sug- As a founder and large shareholder, I am buying the company and taking it private. gests that the directors were more concerned The board is on record in its belief that with protecting their entrenched views and greatly concerned about the future of the company such a transaction “would not be in the positions than considering the full range of best interests of our shareholders, and it possibilities that might benefit our share- if this culture and these values are lost. would be a very risky path.” holders and indeed all our stakeholders.” In his response Wednesday, Zimmer Sources said that, as a discounter, K&G — GeorGe Zimmer stressed that he “has not concluded” that allows Men’s Wearhouse to protect its po- taking the company private is the answer. sitioning at the low end of the market and had an average price of about eight times would use him as a mentor and bounce “What I do know is that as a founder and allows it to grow gross margins, providing earnings before interest, taxes, deprecia- decisions off of him, that relationship soon large shareholder, I am greatly concerned an “offensive and defensive strategy.” tion and amortization for the trailing 12 became stifling for Ewert. about the future of the company if this cul- Despite the threats that surfaced earlier months, “which would value MW shares The dynamic with the board was ture and these values are lost, and believe this week, sources said it’s unlikely Zimmer closer to $50 in a going-private transac- further polarizing to Zimmer, who did that the board should be open to at least will move forward with any attempt at a tion.” Such a valuation would put a $2.5 not have an “open dialogue” with him consider the full range of possibilities buyout of the company. He’s turning 65, has billion price tag on the men’s wear retailer. on important decisions about the com- that could optimize the future value of the a family with young children and may turn Stifel’s Jaffe described an LBO as not pany’s future, the source explained. company for all stakeholders,” he wrote. his energies elsewhere. His years as Men’s only unlikely, considering management “They wanted to keep him around as a Zimmer said that over the past several Wearhouse’s pitchman make him and his opposition to the idea, but also “highly figurehead,” the source said. months, he believed the board and cur- gravelly baritone voice immediately recog- risky, as we would anticipate that the focus That idea did not sit well with Zimmer. rent management, led by chief executive nizable. Zimmer could easily become the face of the company would be forced to shift to His reluctance at being a figure- officer Doug Ewert, “have been eroding of another brand that is “more lucrative and debt service and the culture would likely head is also the reason sources believe the principles and values that have made more fun than selling ,” one source said. be disrupted as the current management Zimmer has made his last pitch for The Men’s Wearhouse so successful for all Neither does Wall Street consider a buy- would likely be pushed out.” Combined Men’s Wearhouse. Although’’ the compa- with off-balance-sheet lease liabilities, ny has not said whether it would retain the analyst noted, the strain on cash flow Zimmer as an advertising spokesman, would be considerable in the event of even sources said it’s highly unlikely he will a modest slowdown in the chain’s business. return. “If he doesn’t agree with the di- Jaffe reiterated his “buy” rating on the rection of the company and he remains stock with a target price of $40, up from $38. the spokesman, it implies that he does.” “Our confidence in management has The tit-for-tat between Zimmer and been renewed, and we believe that they Men’s Wearhouse may eventually cool. have been running the business effec- Sources said Zimmer is ready to allow tively,” Jaffe wrote to clients. the situation to “unfold in a natural way. J.P. Morgan’s Tunick raised his price target If the investors think the future requires on MW to $40 from $35, with an “overweight” his presence, I think he’d be willing to rating. He noted that the company’s first-quar- do that. But if they are happy with Doug, ter conference call earlier this month provided then so be it. He doesn’t want to create a no indication of how the search for strategic al- lose-lose kind of situation.” ternatives for the K&G division — presumably — With contributions from a sale of the nameplate — was proceeding. Arnold J. KArr Italia Independent IPO Set for Friday {Continued from page one} IPO comes at a time when the fash- Independent was eyed critically, but ion industry has seen a spate of action. Tessitore noted that the listing shows Moncler is reported to be looking at an that small and medium-size companies IPO again, after the successful listings of “don’t necessarily have to be indebted Brunello Cucinelli SpA in April last year or undercapitalized. With ideas and [the and Prada SpA and Salvatore Ferragamo LONDON // JULY 11, 2013 right] products, you can grow. It’s hard to SpA the year before. Despite Italy’s mar- believe that this company did not exist ket volatility, Moleskine launched an IPO seven years ago, that it posted sales of 5 in April, although its shares have hit a million euros [$6.5 million] in 2010 and few bumps since then, compared with 15 million euros [$19.2 million] last year.” Cucinelli’s and Ferragamo’s upward The company has said it plans to trajectories. In the U.S. Neiman Marcus hit 30 million euros, or $39 million, in filed for an IPO earlier this week. sales by 2015. The admission of Italia Independent Italia Independent offers men’s ap- arrived after an institutional placement parel and has collabora- of 525,000 shares — 425,000 tions with Vertu phones; from the company’s capital Borsalino hats; Smeg kitch- increase and 100,000 of- JUSTIN COOKE MATT HISCOCK en appliances, and fered for sale by the com- TOPSHOP ASOS.COM for a tailor-made service, pany’s current sharehold- among others. Eyewear ers. The latter also intend @wwdsummits #wwddig remains a key focus for to give the joint global co- Elkann, whose brand offers ordinators an option to buy 200,000 customized varia- up to 78,750 shares, equal For a full list of speakers: wwd.com/londondigital tions of five models. Last to 15 percent of the shares, week, Elkann, a Fiat heir in an over-allotment option TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.5926 known for his style and ec- to be exercised fully or in TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425 centric sense of fashion, un- part within 30 days from veiled a made-to-measure the first day of trading. SPONSORED BY: capsule collection designed Banca IMI SpA and with Gucci’s Frida Giannini Equita SIM SpA acted as for the Italian luxury brand. Lapo Elkann joint global coordinators

The Italia Independent StEphANE FEUGERE photo by and book runners.

w27a006a.indd 6 6/26/13 8:04 PM 06262013200454 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 7 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Dehar Lines to Launch in U.S. set up their own lingerie factory. By JOELLE DIDERICH “I wanted to get as close as possible CRUZ SPEED: American football player DEEN DROPPED AT WAL-MART: It’s been to the details of couture and to keep the Victor Cruz, accompanied by his a rough week for Paula Deen. Wal- PARIS — French tabloid sensation spirit of the theme intact, and it’s very longtime girlfriend Elaina Watley, was Mart Stores Inc. said Wednesday it Zahia Dehar is teaming with the king of complicated to translate that into a com- the top celebrity draw at the Valentino has cut its ties with Deen, a week Hollywood vintage, Cameron Silver, for mercial collection,” she said, explain- men’s show in Paris on Wednesday. after the Southern celebrity chef the U.S. launch of her couture and ready- ing why rtw is only just launching three The Super Bowl champion is no admitted to using racial slurs in the to-wear lingerie collections. seasons after she started showing during stranger to the fashion scene, having past. The retailer said it will not The Zahia Dehar lines will be avail- Paris Couture Week. started the men’s clothing label Young place “any new orders beyond what’s able exclusively at Decades in Los The baroque-style pop-up store Whales with his former teammate Nate already committed.” It added that it Angeles beginning in October. The pair and tea room, partly inspired by Sofia Collins in 2010. Now, he is turning his “will work with suppliers to address will celebrate the partnership with a din- Coppola’s “Marie Antoinette,” will also hand to journalism: Cruz, who also existing inventories and agreements.” ner on July 4 at L’Eclaireur’s store and feature a smattering of accessories rang- attended the Raf Simons show later Wal-Mart has carried Paula Deen- restaurant on Rue Boissy d’Anglas, which ing from a heart-shaped minaudière that the same day, is covering the Paris branded products at all of its U.S. is hosting a “pâtisserie-boudoir” pop-up appears to be covered with icing flowers, men’s shows for Vanity Fair. namesake stores since 2011. The shop for Dehar from Monday to Oct. 15. to nipple covers in faux meringue made His main gig, however, product range includes “Decades has always been the United from silicone, Dehar added. remains his most FOR MORE cookware, skillets, cake Nations of fashion, so it’s another oppor- They will be sold alongside edible pressing concern. The SCOOPS, SEE pans, towel holders, tunity to introduce to our discriminating treats created by hot young pastry chef wide receiver hinted he dinnerware and cutlery. clients something very exclusive and in- Sébastien Gaudard. Dehar said she is close to signing a long- WWD.com. The latest development ternational,” Silver told WWD. would take the “pâtisserie-boudoir” con- term deal with his team, follows Food Network’s cept to New York and the New York Giants. decision to drop her food Tokyo next, adding that “It’s going well, it’s moving in the right shows. Smithfield Foods said it was Zahia Dehar’s she hopes to eventually direction, so we’re excited,” he said. also dropping her as a spokeswoman. collections open stand-alone stores Further down the row was Adèle Deen gave a tearful interview will be sold in Paris, New York, Los Exarchopoulos, attending her first fashion to Matt Lauer on the “Today” show exclusively at Angeles and Tokyo. show just weeks after collecting the Wednesday morning, apologizing to Decades. Palme d’Or at the Cannes film festival her viewers and fans, which obviously with her costar Léa Seydoux for “Blue Is didn’t do much for her business deals. EXCLUSIVE the Warmest Color,” the controversial — LISA LOCKWOOD film in which they play lesbian lovers. Exarchopoulos, threatening to spill PIANOFORTE PLAYERS: Mir Capital, Described by Karl out of her low-cut dress, was flanked a private equity fund formed by Lagerfeld as a contem- Gazprombank and Italian bank Intesa porary French courtesan, Sanpaolo to support the expansion Dehar hit the headlines of medium-size Italian and Russian in 2010 for allegedly sell- companies, and LVMH Moët ing her sexual services Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s private to top French soccer equity fund L Capital Asia, are said players while she was to be eyeing Pianoforte Holding still a minor. The trial of with the goal of buying a stake in Franck Ribéry and Karim CHLOE

the company. The Italian group & Benzema was due to start comprises fast-fashion accessories last week but has been NICK

brand Carpisa, innerwear and BY postponed until January. beachwear brand Yamamay and Dehar has since put

swimwear brand Jaked. PHOTO the scandal behind her to As reported, Pianoforte Holding is focus on her brand, which aiming at raising its presence abroad, “I’m very attracted to the idea of pre- is backed by Hong Kong-based equity fund especially in Russia, the Middle East, senting extremely glamorous lingerie, First Mark. Her infamous curves have Central America and the Far East, because it’s really part of the history of been immortalized by the likes of Pierre et over the next three years. “The deal Hollywood,” he added. “Plus you can’t put Gilles, and at the end of her couture show hinges on the support a new partner on a great vintage couture evening in January, she came out on a horse-drawn could contribute to the group’s plans without really nice underpinnings, so it’s carriage, a baby lamb at her side. to expand outside Italy, especially a nice alternative to Spanx.” “She’s fascinating. She’s like a in Asia,” said a source. Gianluigi The temporary space at L’Eclaireur Barbara Walters special,” said Silver. Cimmino, company board member and marks the debut of Dehar’s rtw line, with “The fashion world is so filled with out- Yamamay and Carpisa chief executive a “Gâteau-bonbon” theme derived from side-the-box personalities — who I think officer, has said that Pianoforte may her fall couture collection. The 21-year- tend to be the ones that succeed the best publicly list in 2015. old designer said she worked on the line — and I think she’s a perfect example of Elaina Watley and Victor Cruz In 2012, Pianoforte posted sales with Les Atelières, a cooperative made being outside the box but really very com- of about 300 million euros, or $396.2 up of former Lejaby workers who have mitted to creating this brand.” million at average exchange, up from 280 million euros, or $389.2 million, in 2011. Yamamay represented nearly half of the company’s sales last year. While Intesa Sanpaolo has a 10 percent stake in Pianoforte, the Cimmino and Carlino families control the group. (Maurizio and Raffaele Carlino founded the Carpisa brand.) For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Yamamay is based in Gallarate, a 30-minute drive from Milan, and Carpisa is based in Nola, near Naples. — LUISA ZARGANI Spaces NO ROOM AT THE INN: Plaza Athénée, FEUGERE another landmark Paris home- away-from-home for the fashion set, COMMERCIAL is slated to close for renovations REAL ESTATE STEPHANE during ready-to-wear season this BY Jérémie Laheurte and New York Embroidery Studio PRODUCT MANAGER Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking Adèle Exarchopoulos fall. The hotel, which celebrated novelty embellishments NYC, China & India Avalanche a Salem MA based outdoor its hundredth anniversary earlier 212-971-9101 [email protected] apparel brand is looking for a product PHOTOS manager / tec writer with at least 3 this year, will shut its doors on Oct. years experience in activewear / outer- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, wear with minor design / trim sourcing by her boyfriend, fellow actor Jérémie 1 for eight months in order to carry Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTIONS ability, must be a team player. Please Laheurte, whom she met on the set of out an extension, incorporating into BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Full service shop to the trade. email [email protected] for Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 more info. the movie. The 19-year-old deflected the edifice three adjacent buildings ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 further questioning, saying she was acquired by owner Dorchester under a gag order until the film is Collection. The partial restoration released in October. “My agent is going will create six new guest rooms, to kill me if I talk to you,” she said. eight suites, a ballroom and two Laheurte, a former model, event spaces, and also involves the volunteered that he had starred in his renovation of the Alain Ducasse share of fashion shows, but this was restaurant and the hotel’s famous his first time as a guest. “It’s fun, I’m bar. It follows the closures of the Ritz happy,” he said. Paris and the Hôtel de Crillon, both (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] — JOELLE DIDERICH AND two-year renovation projects. PAULINA SZMYDKE — ALEX WYNNE 8 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 WWD.COM Chinese Designers Look to Make Mark in Paris

{Continued from page one} Christine Zhao, a Paris-based Gazing around his lavish-yet- fashion consultant and board di- chic new boutique at the Raffles rector for Inlife International, Hotel in central Beijing, Xu a Chinese luxury brand consor- speaks about his sources of inspi- tium, said Xu — whose designs rations — an obscure film, a piece her company is promoting — is on of ancient Chinese poetry and re- the cutting edge of a key trend in flection in quiet outdoor spaces. Chinese consumerism: customiza- Xu’s cinematic creations tion in luxury goods. The wealthi- are far from subtle, with est consumers want clothes and cascading in bold colors, in- a look that is tailored exactly to tense patterns and blends their own tastes and needs, some- worked mainly around the fin- thing in which Xu specializes. est Chinese silk. In a twist on Zhao, who spoke after the un- the global luxury design trend veiling of Xu’s central Beijing of folding smaller elements from appointment-only showroom, Chinese culture into typical said she believes the power European or American designs, of mass-mall consumption in Xu instead blends elements of China is diluting brands. It’s a Laurence Xu Looks from Laurence Xu. the West, like British lace, into dangerous trend at a juncture the deep colors, intricate em- when China’s own consumers broidery and strong lines of tra- are developing more discrimi- drives out customization. Chinese cultural traditions. domestic culture and design. I ditional Chinese clothing design. nating tastes, she said. “But I think this system will The label just celebrated its believe this is just the transition “This is an old Chinese To that end, her company un- be washed out,” she added. 35th anniversary in China with period and the old traditions poem,” Xu said, gesturing to- veiled a strategic plan to focus “Beijing has many shopping a show and party earlier this will come back.” ward one of his creations, an more on buyers rather than malls, which are full of foreign month at Beijing’s Grand Hyatt There is little doubt Chinese elaborate gown that incorporates property developers. This may luxury brands and domestic hotel, after which head designer consumers, particularly those silk, hemp and actual gold fibers seem like a simple idea, but it large brands. The large brands Wang Chen Tsai-hsia sat down at the higher end, have become in its mix. “You can see vines, turns on its head the current re- have strong economic power but with WWD for an interview. more discriminating in their old trees, sleepy crows, a small tail environment in Beijing and are not that good at fashion.” Wang said Shiatzy Chen has fashion choices in recent years. bridge, a stream running by and every other Chinese city. Shiatzy Chen, the Taiwan- long believed that indigenous Loudly labeled, mass-marketed the home. This piece illustrates “China has a bad commer- based couture brand, is work- Chinese design and staying luxury goods are fading out fast the entire mood of the poem.” cial environment. China’s shop- ing along similar lines but has true to traditional elements are as the wealthiest customers Neither Xu nor the Shiatzy ping malls are part of the real been at it for far longer. The critical concepts. She explained look for more discreet products Chen label would disclose estate-system, which is not buy- brand is growing its reach in that Taiwan, which split from with superhigh-quality fabrics sales figures, but said their er-centered,” said Zhao. “This Mainland China, becoming the mainland following China’s and tailoring. business is growing quickly as system does not encourage in- especially popular for main- civil war in the Forties, has of- “I think Chinese higher-end demand picks up in China. novation or diversification. It taining its design links with fered a cultural haven as tra- consumers have changed their ditional Chinese customs are tastes mainly because they have often more closely held on the gotten to know more brands and A Shiatzy island than in greater China. the market has provided them Chen design. Wang said she is witnessing with more choices,” said Beijing- Mainland China undergo the based fashion buyer Foniz same shift in trends and tastes Huang, who works with upper- she witnessed in Taiwan when income clients. “They have be- Shiatzy Chen was first creat- come pickier than before. More ed, a steady shift back toward products on the market tend to

LOVELL China’s traditional culture cus- have concise design and styling.” toms and style sense. In that regard, China’s own “Several decades ago, wives of designers and companies might SHARRON Taiwan entrepreneurs (the trend- have an edge. They are watching BY setters) worshiped foreign things the shift happen up close and a lot,” said Wang. “There were a picking up where a demand for PHOTOS lot of imported goods, but then precision and personalization is they became accustomed to and taking hold quickly. WANG fed up with these foreign things. Shiatzy Chen’s Wang said she AND “The same is true with main- expects China’s influence will

CHEN land,” she continued. “It has only grow, as will its demand Wang Chen Tsai-hsia begun to return to traditional for tasteful products and home-

SHIATZY culture and toward appreciating grown design.

but also opening up the way for new opportunities to grow in Chanel Among China’s Most Sought-After Luxe Brands the Chinese market,” said Pablo Mauron, general manager, China, The study revealed that Digital Luxury Group, said, out the top five were Chanel at Digital Luxury Group. By LISA LOCKWOOD Chinese consumer interest is “Chanel is benefiting from an and Clinique. Skin care ac- focused on cars (53.5 percent), important level of interest in counted for almost 60 percent CHANEL, ESTÉE LAUDER and beauty (22.7 percent) and fash- China, mostly emanating from of all beauty searches. TOP 15 MOST SOUGHT-AFTER ■ LUXURY BRANDS IN CHINA Louis Vuitton were among the ion (14.9 percent). New brands to strong interest from Chinese In the category, Omega, top five most sought-after luxu- enter the top 50 were Elizabeth consumers in its beauty prod- Rolex, Longines, Cartier and ry brands in China, according to Arden (number 43) and Rado (50), ucts, which Louis Vuitton does Rado, in order, led the luxury RANK BRAND the World Luxury Index China while brands such as Moncler not have.” He also said Vuitton watch segment for most searches. 1 Audi 2013 — 2nd Edition, produced and Salvatore Ferragamo fell off has been suffering in the ■ The top-five jewelry leaders, by the Digital Luxury Group. the top 50 list. Last year, Moncler Chinese market from oversatu- in order, were Chow Tai Fook, 2 BMW Chanel came in third place, was number 42, and Ferragamo ration, and recently decided to Cartier, Swarovski, Tiffany & 3 Chanel Lauder took fourth place and was number 48. raise its prices and sell more Co. and Chanel. Rings were the Vuitton was in fifth place. The According to the report, the high-end leather to give more most sought-after jewelry prod- 4 Estée Lauder first two spots went to Audi and top 10 most sought-after brands, exclusivity to the brand. uct, representing more than half 5 Louis Vuitton BMW, respectively. in order, are Audi, BMW, Among the key trends shap- of all searches. The report is part of the Chanel, Estée Lauder, Louis ing the Chinese luxury market: ■ The most sought-after hand- 6 Lexus World Luxury Index, an inter- Vuitton, Lexus, Mercedes-Benz, ■ In the fashion category, the bag models were from Céline 7 Mercedes-Benz national ranking and analysis Dior, Porsche and Lamborghini most sought-after brands are, (Luggage); Hermès (Birkin); 8 of the most-searched-for brands (see accompanying chart). in order, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Chanel (2.55); Longchamp (Le Dior within the luxury industry. The The next 10 are Lancôme, Gucci, Hermès and Coach. Bags Pliage) and Hermès (Kelly). 9 Porsche study covers more than 400 Gucci, Hermès, Volvo, Land and wallets dominated the fash- “Many brands expected that 1100 luxury brands within six key Rover, Infiniti, Chow Tai Fook, ion market in China, generating an increase in Chinese sophisti- Lamborghini segments (fashion, cars, beauty, Cadillac, Cartier and Clinique. 90 percent of total interest. cation would reduce the cultural 11 Lancôme ■ , jewelry and hospital- Interestingly, in last year’s In the beauty segment, Estée gap with their overseas consum- 12 ity). The information is culled survey, Vuitton was in third place Lauder, Lancôme and Dior re- ers. In some cases, it actually Gucci from 680 million consumer and Chanel was in fifth place. tained their spots as the three contributed to the development 13 Hermès online searches originating As for the reversal of po- most-desired beauty brands in of unique local preferences, in- 14 Volvo from search engines Baidu and sitions between Chanel and the Chinese market. However, dependent from Western tastes, Google from January through Vuitton, David Sadigh, founder Lancôme overtook Dior in the thus challenging luxury brands 15 Land Rover December 2012. and chief executive officer of number-two spot. Rounding in terms of product offering MAN OF THE WEEK For a look at Cédric Jacquemyn Casual Male and other Ones to New father Watch in made the most of an PARIS PRESHOW Paris, see A look behind the scenes as designers appropriate street-casual WWD.com/ prep for Paris. Pages MW4 and MW5 menswear- look. Page MW3 news.

June 27, 2013

MILAN Ideas, Innovation Hed tk Lauded by Buyers Retailers cite novelty; Hed Here look for more from Milan by WWD Staff Soluptia veliam cus doluptur aliquo MILAN — Milan offered enough novelty to dolenimusda volor ra aut quibus keep retailers happy at a time when men soluptaqui oditiaspel maio occus are becoming increasingly demanding and sophisticated. To help boost business in a dolenistore volendeserem volut ex lackluster local economy, Italian designers explistia dus nim ilici officipsae focused on research and innovation — and on ways to restore luster to the city as the ent, sunt ut que sa sitia quunt, vere Italian Chamber of Fashion maps out a re- labor alictorum la sintectur sundit turn to fashion’s forefront. Elongated jackets, boxy shapes, technical fabrics, architectural hitaeperum ut as et volluptam graphics, roomy suits, a new color palette and shorts galore emerged as standout trends. nonsequis aut et ut utem fuga. Hent quis “The Milan collections offered new and dit quae plabor as ex eveless imusdae different alternatives for spring-summer dressing. The Milanese were focusing on strong colors, printed fabrics and the use of wool-mohair blend fabrics, whereby you ar- rive at a cool, crisp dry fabric that is both comfortable and highly sophisticated,” said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear, Barneys New York. “In both the de- signer and classic luxury sector, we see op- portunity for next spring and our budgets reflect this. With a strong focus on accesso- ries and shoes, we see most suppliers think- ing differently and all centering their sights on a younger, more modern customer.” Indeed, men’s wear is flourishing and retailers are generally expanding their bud- gets to satisfy demand. “Our budget is up for designer and luxury brands, though the percentage var- ies from brand to brand,” said Tancrède de Lalun, gmm of women’s and men’s apparel at Printemps. “We are experiencing a healthy growth, which means we will be able to place Romantic a lot of reorders during the season. The men’s market is the middle of a huge change. We are projecting substantial growth, while the mind-set of the customer is changing. Before, men were fixated on knits. They said, ‘I need a suit for the office and a pair of for the weekend.’ The new customer is driven by de- Rebel sire — much like women. It’s great, because whenever you present them with something new, they are interested in buying.” Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, con- electrified the start of the curred, saying that the men’s business “con- tinues to be strong and will be bought accord- Paris men’s shows with a ingly next season. We will stock up on woven shirts, contemporary clothing and fashion compact steeped shoes, in particular.” Jennings noted that men are “developing their own personal style and in his inimitable personal spending on the best quality they can afford.” While fashion becomes “part of their vocabu- style. Evening-driven, it had lary,” they are looking for value. “The latest fad is of little importance at the end of the a languid sophistication. For day. They want something that is current but will still be relevant in seasons to come.” more on the Paris season, see Prada, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Ermenegildo Zegna, Umit Benan, pages MW3 to MW5. Neil Barrett, Missoni and Fendi were DOMINIQUE MAITRE among the collections that received wide praise from buyers.

PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW6} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 Men’s Week

Coach Teams With Billy Reid A view of the first Kris Van Assche store in Paris. by DAVID LIPKE Billy Reid and Coach’s Jeffrey Uhl. the crocodile tote. In between, a pebbled COACH HAS tapped leather messenger Alabama-based de- bag is $800, a suede signer Billy Reid overnight bag is for its latest collab- $800, and a leather oration, a capsule trimmed portable bar collection of men’s set is $600. A women’s and women’s bags suede clutch is $400 and accessories and pebbled leather that will hit retail satchel is $600. in September. The The line also in- partnership marries cludes father-and- Reid’s modern take son baseball gloves on cultured Southern for $400 and $200, style with heritage respectively, in a elements from the nod to Coach’s long Coach archives. tradition in the sport OF COACH JOHN AQUINO; PRODUCTS COURTESY “The idea started — and Reid’s own with a phone call love for the game. DOMINIQUE MAITRE from them and I The designer is an BY PORTRAIT

came to look through assistant coach on PHOTO BY the archives and it really grew from there,” his nine-year-old son’s Little League team, said Reid. The men’s offerings encompass the Florence All-Stars, who are playing in a five different bag styles in a number of color state tournament this weekend. Van Assche Opens Paris Store and material options and five accessory “With his Southern roots and unique styles in various options. The women’s outlook, Billy brings a breath of fresh by MILES SOCHA not huge, but it’s going to be sufficient for line includes five bag and clutch styles. air to fashion,” said Jeffrey Uhl, se- a good representation of my collection.” Brass hardware details, fabrics nior vice president of men’s design PARIS — “Luxurious industrial,” is how For the Belgian designer, who is also and silhouettes are inspired at Coach Inc., remembering Kris Van Assche describes his first signa- the creative director of Dior Homme, the by vintage Coach designs, fondly the barbecue he sam- ture boutique, which opened here today boutique marks an important milestone such as a tote fashioned pled in Reid’s home base of at 16 Rue Saint-Roch, just in time for for his nine-year-old signature label, from an archival twill and Florence, Ala. “Both of us Men’s Fashion Week. bound to heighten his visibility and pos- trimmed in vegetable- have a shared aesthetic of “Generous minimalism” is another de- sibly attract potential franchise partners tanned leather. Another American design, with an scriptor for the sleek, 750-square-foot unit and investors. tote is made from Louisiana idea of luxury but not overly that boasts fitting rooms, a cash wrap and Van Assche is simultaneously launch- crocodile, from a supplier adorned or pretentious.” lighting fixtures in polished steel. Other ing e-commerce with worldwide shipping, Reid uses for his own bags. The Coach + Billy Reid features include stark white walls, parquet considerably widening his reach. A silk jacquard fabric collection will be carried in floors, mirrors, angular metal shelves and His privately held company ships to created by Reid for a dinner nine North American Coach benches topped with black rubber. about 140 doors worldwide, with the busi- jacket in his own collection flagships, one store in Japan, “It’s a little like men’s wear: The prob- ness concentrated in Asia, particularly was used as a liner for some two stores in China, five Japan, and Europe. of the bags. A zippered wal- A twill tote from Coach + Billy Reid. stores in other Asian markets THE IDEA WAS TO HAVE A VERY The Paris bou- let is based on a favorite design from Reid’s and on coach.com. The women’s line will be tique opened with own wardrobe. carried exclusively at Billy Reid stores. MASCULINE ENVIRONMENT. Van Assche’s fall Retail prices range from $250 for the Billy Reid currently operates eight “ 2013 collection, in- leather wallet all the way up to $20,000 for stores in New York; Atlanta; Austin, [THE STORE] IS NOT HUGE, BUT cluding an array of Tex.; Charleston, S.C.; Dallas; Houston; shoes, backpacks Nashville, and Washington. A ninth store IT’S GOING TO BE SUFFICIENT.” and other accesso- will open in New Orleans this fall in a ries that represent 2,200-square-foot space on Magazine Street. — KRIS VAN ASSCHE about 40 percent of Coach, which on Monday named the business. Stuart Vevers as executive cre- lems are often inspiring,” the designer A soft-spoken designer, Van Assche ative director, has allied with said of the store’s particulars, including said the business has been on a solid a string of collaborators in wide-yet-shallow proportions, and Forties growth track the past two years, rebound- recent years, including Saint window cases that were a feature of the ing from “rough times” when the financial James, James Nares, Hugo location and could not be altered. Van crisis sent stores scurrying away from up- Guinness, Krink and Pierre Assche and architectural firm Ciguë met start labels. Le-Tan. Reid’s previous collab- the latter restriction by painting them His is the latest fashion label to gravi- orations have been a two-year with rubberized black paint and inserting tate to the burgeoning Rue Saint-Honoré line with Levi’s that began in two of the shelving units into the window and its immediate environs. Balenciaga, 2010 after he won GQ’s best display area, giving the narrow main floor Chloé, Theory, & Other Stories and Dior new designer competition and some extra breathing room. Parfums are among recent openings, with A portable bar set from an ongoing shoe design with “The idea was to have a very mascu- a Viktor & Rolf flagship slated to arrive Coach + Billy Reid. K-Swiss. line environment,” he said. “[The store] is this fall.

project allows Italian industry and craftsman- Zegna’s High-end Push ship to pair with “a big designer, whose genius by LUISA ZARGANI Zegna Couture collection, which was first creates a bomb [of cre- launched a decade ago and is now being ativity] that will allow MILAN — Tapping Stefano Pilati last year given a higher profile. the group to consolidate has given Gildo Zegna an additional spring Couture is priced 50 percent above the its leadership in men’s in his step. flagship line, which includes the Sartorial wear,” citing products Speaking ahead of the Ermenegildo Zegna (tailor made) and upper-casual collections. all made by hand in Italy, show last week, the company’s chief execu- With Couture, Zegna said he is eyeing the the finest fabrics and at- tive officer was upbeat and brimming with “superaffluent” consumer in new markets, tention to details — such energy. “I’m proud and satisfied, happy with explaining that the line will be available in as hand-stitched button- a partnership that helps us raise the bar” at a no more than 50 stores globally, including the holes or fabric inserts in time when business is generally challenging, Milan Via Montenapoleone boutique, which shirts to avoid the risk said Zegna. “It is at such a moment that one will be expanded with an additional dedicat- GIANNONI GIOVANNI of rips — combined with must be daring, take risks, do different things, ed floor to be unveiled in the first part of 2014. “more modern style and press the accelerator, not the brake. We have “We continue to add markets that are research.” He also called PHOTO BY not put a stop to our investments approved in always more challenging, demanding and Pilati a “master with col- Ermenegildo Zegna Couture November. The challenge is how to manage even more exclusive, notwithstanding the ors,” noting that he em- the complexities effectively, provided one crisis,” said Zegna, pointing to social and the end of July, as well as in the Las Vegas ployed 33 different hues for the collection. has the resources and the brand,” said Zegna, economic troubles in Brazil and Turkey, in and New York units. For his part, Pilati described the collec- forecasting a 2014 “better than 2103, but still addition to a slowdown in China and India, In addition to Russia and the Gulf area, tion as “a project of evolution, not revolu- not easy.” Asked about the second half of this which “never really took off.” Zegna is looking at Africa, which is still tion. This is a company, not a maison, with year, the executive said he expects low-single- The executive was pleased with the per- “small, but growing,” and where the compa- an approach to design that is different, but digit growth, lamenting currency headwinds, formance of the U.S. market and said that ny plans to open six stores in the next three stimulating. The lucidity is in maintaining for example. Couture will also be available in a new years, in Nigeria, Angola, South Africa and, a balance between creativity and what you Last Saturday, Pilati unveiled his 7,560-square-foot Peter Marino-designed possibly, Mozambique. have to do. I am quite satisfied. I had fun own interpretation of the Ermenegildo boutique in Los Angeles that will open at Zegna underscored how the Couture and learned a lot.” Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 MW3

SPRING 2014 PARIS Paris Kicks Off MEN’S Valentino: and gave a twist to aviator-style Ackermann — who did a COLLECTIONS military were khaki or beige jackets by dalliance with men’s in 2010 the guiding themes for adding blanket stripes — strolled out for his bow. Maria Grazia Chiuri and and a single black leather In only a dozen or so looks, Pierpaolo Piccioli at breast pocket that was he made a big impression. Valentino. The duo kicked bonded so flat, it looked His take on the off with a series of suits like duct tape. dandy gang? “They’re and outerwear, including Satiny pants came in sophisticated in their jackets and , a floral chine design that rebellion,” he said. spliced together from resembled an abstract various shades of denim camouflage print, while Carven: A painter on the for a graphic color-blocked toile de Jouy motifs in French Riviera. That, effect with a Nineties feel. muted shades evoked in short, was the vibe Picking up on the army faded World War II-era of Guillaume Henry’s inspiration they first mined Hawaiian prints. Adding sophomore men’s show a year ago, the designers to the tropical subcurrent, for Carven, with a potter’s some suits were paired workshop as the backdrop. with crocodile and The influence was most rubber made literal in the brushstrokes in collaboration with that appeared on a beige- Brazilian firm Havaianas. and-black sweatshirt With its mix of sporty spliced with blue shirt tails, separates and retro-flavored or high-waisted cropped tailoring, this collection pants in a hand-drawn, should provide plenty to blue-on-white check. make retailers beam. Fifties-style blousons and Haider Ackermann: Dazzling. in linen, chambray The Antwerp-based and lightweight nylon designer unveiled a new contrasted with tailored proposition for men: pieces with a more Languid and bohemian, feminine flourish. A yet formal enough to pass swinging cropped black muster at any fancy table. jacket and an oversize Lustrous silks, jewel beige trenchcoat came in a tones and fringed scarves ridged fabric textured like in foulard prints wound a straw hat. and draped just so — As signaled by the hallmarks of his acclaimed kitschy Luis Mariano women’s collection — soundtrack, the Carven were tempered by a cast of man is not afraid of

heavily tattooed models, drawing attention, with their hair slicked back suit offerings including Fifties style. a shrunken number in Likewise, fancy dinner a butterscotch-colored jackets and robelike waffled check. (Buyers will FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

GIANNONI GIOVANNI coats were rendered also find a more office- WWD.com/ less precious by pairing friendly offering in the runway. them with pajamalike, showroom.) drop-crotch pants. Henry’s skill lay in Models mingled in an old balancing statement warehouse in their puffy pieces in “Hi there!” blousons, Fonzi T-shirts citrus shades with inky Valentino Haider Ackermann Carven and fancy vests, and the basics to create a look that audience roared when was arty, but not affected. PHOTOS BY CARVEN VALENTINO,

Man of MSGM: “Forever Young” could KANYE WEST: B+ have been the title of the MSGM THE WEEK collection, which was an ode to Nineties teenage culture. Mixing up  references to the cool boys of cult His perfectly shaped head allows for a TV show “Beverly Hills 90210” with The new daddy  very flattering shaved-down look. a more rebellious skater inspiration, MSGM creative director Massimo (North? Pleeze...) The Nineties are back Giorgetti delivered a playful lineup and so are goatees. focused on wearable pieces with who also a comfortable fit, while showing at Pitti Uomo as a featured designer. celebrated Right color combination with the In keeping with the brand’s DNA, T-shirt, but a more form-fitting Giorgetti indulged in prints. They the release of with a stand-up would spanned from the floral digital his new album, be chicer and more empowering. patterns of cotton T-shirts and shirts H&M h as good ones. to a new camouflage motif mixed Yeezus, left with exotic skins’ prints giving an The interesting, flowy T-shirt can edgy look to a pair of slim pants his be unforgiving, but he seems to worn with a suede biker jacket have lost some weight, so it works and on a fluid paired fashionista for him now. with graphic short pants. Giorgetti also tie-dyed a plethora of pieces, days behind We can nearly read his text messages. including a sporty nylon hooded Try the back pocket next time. sweatshirt and a pair of cotton and opted trousers worn with a mesh color- blocked tank top showing a maxi for a more Coated denim can be tricky and version of the college uniforms- at times tacky, but with this inspired MSGM logo. appropriate ensemble and his persona, it casual street works pretty well. Editor's Note: Due to an editing MAESTRI error the incorrect text accompanied The high-top suede moccasins the MSGM review in the July 20 look. reveal his hunger for fashion DAVIDE edition of Men's Week. The correct and are a good choice to soften JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE BY review appears here. the look. PHOTO PHOTO BY MW4 WWD thursday, june 27, 2013 Men’s Week

Checks and a luggage check at Louis Vuitton with Kim Jones.

An authority figure Thom Browne can look up to. Homme Page PARIS — The men’s wear pack has Dries Van Noten tends to his descended on garden prints.

Paris, where Mr. Gaultier enjoys the shows the great run through outdoors. Sunday. WWD visited studios around town — and in Antwerp, Belgium, too — as designers entered the home stretch on their spring 2014 collection. — Laurent Folcher

Alexandre Mattiussi reflects on his spring collection for Ami.

Breaking the color code at Christophe Lemaire.

w27b004(5)a;9.indd 1 6/26/13 4:08 PM 06262013161005 Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 MW5

SPRING 2014 All the young dudes, including Rolf Snoeren and PARIS Viktor Horsting of MEN’S Viktor & Rolf. COLLECTIONS PREVIEW

Going through the paces at Dior Homme with Kris Van Assche.

An authority Are you figure Thom looking at me? Browne can That was the look up to. question at Rick Owens.

Caught between the mustard at with Bill Gaytten. MARLEEN DANIELS NOTEN BY VAN MAITRE; DOMINIQUE BY DOMA AND DIOR GALLIANO, ASSCHE,

Men in black at Damir Doma. A rack

Alexandre MURA; VAN FRANCK Mattiussi and an reflects on anorak his spring at Kris collection Van for Ami. Assche. AND VUITTON PHOTOS BY CERRUTI, MATTIUSSI ROLF,

A shaded view at Cerruti with Aldo Maria Camillo. & VIKTOR MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 Men’s Week Buyers Want More From Milan

{Continued from page MW1} Kevin Harter, vice president and fashion most designers stuck to the tried and true. While some retailers, like Matthew director for men’s at Bloomingdale’s: My biggest concern for this spring season is Singer, men’s fashion director at Neiman Trendspotting: “Trends we liked included how dark and fall-like the colors were.” Marcus Group, don’t think that Milan the mix of technical with tai- Favorite collections: Missoni, Bottega Fashion Week “is slipping in importance at lored clothing, for example Gucci’s techni- Veneta, Ferragamo, Gucci. all,” as “a good amount of business is done cal parkas paired with knit trousers, which Advice on Milan: “At this moment in time and will continue to be done” in the Italian seemed to be a new feeling for the house.” Milan seems to be missing some of the youth, city, others believe steps should be taken to Sound off: “Bloomingdale’s felt confident energy, creativity and innovation coming out attract new talent, create buzz around the in regards to the spring offerings in Milan. the other cities. How to improve it is up for de- shows and make them more entertaining. The color palette was strong and directional, bate for sure, but it all starts with being nimble Jimmy Chan, merchandising manager, as well as extremely wearable for our cus- and staying close to the ground with what is men’s division, Swank, Hong Kong, urged tomer. Stefano Pilati showcased wonderful happening with your customers. There are Italians to “think out of the box. Buyers are shades of blues, greens and earth tones for some very established houses in Milan that now spending less time on fashion shows and Ermenegildo Zegna.” have been doing business in a certain way presentations, but focused a lot on business Favorite collections: Gucci, Belstaff, Umit for a very long time, so they are not as nimble development and market share in such a Benan, Corneliani, Canali. or quick to make intelligent decisions. Men’s competitive environment. Revolutionary ar- Advice on Milan: “Still would like to see wear is really having a moment, you can’t af- rangements should start from Milan in order Milan introduce new talent. Our hats ford to fall asleep at the wheel. Also, look at to maintain its fashion leading position.” off to Mr. Armani for his showcasing of what is coming out of the fashion schools.” Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Andrea Pompilio.” Rinascente, said, “Milan should attract star Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president power,” citing, for example, Stefano Pilati’s Brooks Thomas, vice president, men’s wear, and gmm of men’s wear, Barneys New York: designs for Ermenegildo Zegna, which were Holt Renfrew, Canada: Trendspotting: “Without question, designer introduced this season and “offer beautiful Trendspotting: “We see huge growth in luxu- are a strong opportunity. The busi- locations,” while also actively and finan- ry and accessories. We are always ness has been dominated by the high-tops; for cially supporting new talents. “Umit Benan, on the lookout for the artisanal, exclusive spring 2014, many collections brought back Andrea Pompilio and Andrea Incontri, for product that Italy is renowned for. We also the canvas sneakers with vulcanized rubber example, are talented. They need to be men- see opportunity with luxury lifestyle brands, welts and soles for a more old-school look.” tored and helped with production facilities.” but done in a very modern way.” Favorite collections: “Most collections were Cardini said brands should engage in making Sound off: “Men’s wear is a key growth area very innovative. It was an even season.” Missoni their presentations more interesting. “Think for Holt Renfrew, and we are extremely en- Advice on Milan: “Milan is still the epicenter of Umit’s show, it’s so theatrical. There thusiastic about spring 2014. We are very fo- of men’s. Although the Paris collections are should be more interdisciplinary and cin- cused on growing our luxury tailored clothing supplying a lot of the energy and new dis- Darren Skey, head of men’s wear, Harvey ematic breadth. Collections should be shown and sportswear businesses, as well as our lux- coveries, Italian collections are still doing Nichols, London: in a more spectacular and artistic way. The ury furnishings, accessories and footwear.” the heavy lifting and sum up to be the top- Trendspotting: “The blouson and bomber excellence of , its quality and Favorite collections: Neil Barrett, Bottega volume businesses. The caveat here is that jackets are really taking off — every collec- style is unbeatable, but we need to make it Veneta, Gucci, Prada, Belstaff, Andrea there is a major shift towards growth in the tion had a variety of them. Overall, there’s a more interesting in a consistent way.” Incontri, Zegna, Canali. luxury sector in Italy led by Zegna, Isaia, sportier feel to the collections and a move Here’s more of what buyers had to say: Advice on Milan: “It’s an exciting time for Brioni and Kiton. These artisanal and heri- away from tailoring. Look at Gucci: We’re Italy and men’s wear. We are seeing younger tage brands constitute a part of the industry used to seeing tailored clothing come down Jason Broderick, gmm, men’s wear and fine men dressing up again, but in a modern way. that works very hard to break through — it’s the runway, but this collection was a real watches, Harrods, London: They are passionate about make, fit, quality old-school brands creating new-school char- change in direction with all the technical Trendspotting: “The florals at Gucci, the and construction, as well as new exclusive, acter. They are leading in the sense that they fabrics and outerwear.” Western influences at Etro and Fendi, and artisanal brands. This is what Italy has al- are pushing for much more change and are Sound off: “Milan does a job, and we know the tropical prints at Prada, and an awful lot ways been about, so the time is right for con- moving faster in the direction of the younger we’re not going to find too much that is new. of great leather, especially Fendi. Also, Zegna tinued growth.” customer. They are also nearing the life- It’s about the big-volume brands, and nothing and Canali really emphasized their roles as styles of people and how they dress. It’s truly stands out as cool except for Neil Barrett.” industrial tailoring powerhouses — it was Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion modern luxury. So you really shouldn’t just Favorite collections: Neil Barrett, Umit something that really came out this season.” director, men’s wear, home, food and gifts, look at the runways.” Benan. Sound off: “Men are increasingly looking to Saks Fifth Avenue: Business strategy: “We may cut budgets build more fashion-oriented wardrobes with Trendspotting: “Graphic prints and patterns very slightly in Milan. We’ve done well trendsetting pieces. Prada and Gucci will hit continue moving full steam ahead, whether ARTISANAL AND with our [Italian] logo products in the past, the spot.” they are on woven shirts, trousers, outer- but the brands want us to invest more in Favorite collections: Prada, Gucci, wear or tailored clothing. White and shades HERITAGE BRANDS fashion products instead of the obviously Zegna, Fendi. of off-white dominate. -on shoes and bas- “ branded ones.” Advice on Milan: “Italy is the powerhouse ket weave shoes are a trend.” CONSTITUTE A PART OF Advice on Milan: “Milan needs to start back- of the men’s wear industry, and our Italian Sound off: “In general, most collections in ing some younger brands. I just got to Paris brands are performing exceptionally well. Milan played it safe this season. While cer- THE INDUSTRY THAT now and saw two new brands, and they got We’re very happy with the week.” tainly moving in a more modern direction, me salivating! Milan is also at risk of being WORKS VERY HARD TO overshadowed by London, but they are lack- ing the cool element — except when the Prada Neil Barrett BREAK THROUGH.” stripper ran down the runway at Dolce & — TOM KALENDERIAN, Gabbana. It was hilarious and it lightened BARNEYS NEW YORK the mood of the show.” Tancrède de Lalun, gmm of women’s and Matthew Singer, men’s fashion director, men’s apparel, Printemps: Neiman Marcus Group: Trendspotting: “There are two groups of Trendspotting: “We are loving the more trends. One is the “street luxe” or “new ca- neutral palette. Whites and cream combos sual” with Ferragamo, Neil Barrett, Calvin feel fresh and elegant. For spring we are Klein and Jil Sander. Here you see suit excited about the return of the single-pleat jackets, but made casual with strong colors, trouser. With this Fifties undertone happen- new shapes and fabrics. The second one is ing, it feels right for our customer. The un- an international urban chic (Zegna, Bottega constructed soft sport jacket is also a great Veneta, Gucci, Trussardi); it’s a global ward- piece of the season.” , with a lot of hybrid pieces such as Sound off: “The Milan season overall is a bit blouson-jacket combinations. And then you more dressed up but still has a relaxed feel- have Prada, which in itself is a trend, a mas- ing to it.” terpiece. This season, it introduced a new Favorite collections: Prada, Ermenegildo silhouette for pants. Before everything was Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Kiton, Isaia, Brioni. fitted and narrow. Now it’s larger and more fluid. In both groups, microprints and clas- Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La sic prints with revisited dimensions are key.” Rinascente: Sound off: “There was a good energy in Trendspotting: “Couture sportswear: The ab- Milan, with Prada definitely being the one.” solute excellence of Italian brands has ren- Favorite collections: Prada, Zegna. dered activewear chic. The hybrid between formal and activewear has turned into soft Mei Chung, men’s wear buying director, tailoring with a strong luxury factor. There Browns, London: were lots of interesting prints, muted colors, Trendspotting: “Sporty tailoring, but at a melancholic pastels. Anoraks, boxy jackets, very luxury level, and lots of fluoro colors slim pants and shorts.” from the Eighties.” Favorite collections: Ermenegildo Zegna, Jil Sound off: “We have a very international Sander, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Fendi, Umit clientele, so we have to strike a balance

Benan, Andrea Incontri, Andrea Pompilio. between the younger generation — the GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 MW7

twentysomething Arabs, Russians and I admired the boxy and less skinny looks [at Asians —who want a collector’s piece, and Neil Barrett and Jil Sander]. There were still the older customers who want something a lot of shorts like last summer and jackets very basic with a beautiful cut and fabric. were longer. In the details or allover the The younger men definitely want to be pieces, the main colors were orange and trendsetters, and the pieces they buy don’t yellow; the combination of white and red have to be well-known.” was everywhere, and of course all shades of Favorite collections: “Jil Sander and Markus blue. Generally, the traveler is a reference Lupfer, who did a whole collection of this season with backpacks, bombers stream- T-shirts, sweatshirts and knitwear — some lined with outerwear and technical fabrics, with embellishment — based on Club 27, art- and running shoes with heavy soles, and of ists who died aged 27.” course Oriental and tropical inspirations [at Advice on Milan: “Italy generally is having Umit Benan and Jil Sander].” a tough time, and the business is affected by Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, the government situation. No one is happy. Missoni, Ermenegildo Zegna, Umit Benan People are having to move their money Business strategy: “For Thecorner.com, we around — like in France.” will keep on growing and nurturing new tal- MILAN HAS LOST SOME OF ITS LUSTER…. “THEY BETTER SHAPE UP. THE INGREDIENTS ARE ALL THERE, BUT MILAN ITSELF IS NOT EXACTLY ELECTRIFYING.” — EMMANUEL DE BAYSER, THE CORNER

Polat Uyal, chief merchandising officer, ents while reinforcing the business with all Beymen, Turkey: of our existing brands.” Trendspotting: “Colors and prints. Shoes and Advice on Milan: “We need more new, in- shirts will be very important.” teresting brands out there. There is a void Sound off: “While we are confident with to fill in the contemporary segment. French spring 2014, we still act cautiously and yet brands such as Melinda Gloss, Ami and Bottega Veneta we’re budgeting up 20 percent.” Carven are good examples. They are still Favorite collections: Prada, Bottega Veneta, creative, but accessible. That is also what is the prints and colors on the runway. Selling Neil Barrett. missing from Milan Fashion Week, which is them, in Germany especially, is difficult. Advice on Milan: “Milan is not slipping in im- based on big players that do big business. I When it’s sunny outside, people are more up- portance. However, Paris and London are final- don’t see the new generation. Where is the beat, but when the weather is bad, like this Jil Sander ly pushing for men’s. So potential competition future Prada, the future Zegna? It’s diffi- spring, it’s a different story. Also, men’s pur- obviously will lead Milan to be more creative cult to say. While in London, for instance, chasing patterns have changed in general. and improve its offerings. Up-and-coming de- you have Burberry, but also Christopher generation, because they cannot live only on They are more daring. Even lawyers are leav- signers would inject a fresh attitude into the Kane and YMC stepping forward. However, established brands.” ing the traditional gray suit at home, which more traditional identity of Italian fashion.” Milan is very important. Along with London, makes our work more exciting, too. They are it’s the center of the art of men’s fashion. Cindy Ho, fashion director, 360 Style, Kuwait: also very well informed, they know what they Hirofumi Kurino, chief creative adviser of There is a huge culture there. Just look at an Trendspotting: “So refined and rich. The details want and they want it fast — a speedy deliv- United Arrows Ltd., Tokyo: Italian guy and the way he dresses.” and craftsmanship are remarkable at Bottega ery has become crucial. The sooner we have Trendspotting: “This season we saw some Veneta. I just love all the details. Jil Sander is those pieces in the store, the sooner we can very interesting brands, which presented Sebastian Manes, buying and about simplicity yet most stylish. Amidst the sell them. Waiting lists are also on the rise — collections with a new feel and attitude. merchandising director, Selfridges, London: white, the lobster or coral red stands out and much like in women’s wear.” They showcased a kind of new elegance for Trendspotting: “Sportswear continues as a is now acceptable as a men’s color. Well done. Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, contemporary gentlemen, who wear sim- trend; jackets and trousers with piping, graph- As at Prada, the idea of mix and match is very Massimo Piombo. ple but interesting clothes in a deep color ic lines, black-and-white and flower prints.” brand new and bold for men’s wear. The trend Business strategy: “We opened a second, palette of autumn tones, breaking the old Sound off: “I was there for three days and it for next spring-summer is definitely shorts in all this time men’s only boutique in September seasonal rules. This might be a solution to went very well. I’m happy with what I saw. styles, straight or flared. They are like a for 2012 and saw sales jump 100 percent in just this strange weather hitting many areas, in- It’s not the biggest market for us, however, ladies and, depending on the occasions, you can three seasons, which is why we are buying cluding the European countries and Japan. compared with Paris. Business is good and play with them easily.” twice as much.” African fabrics were very important as well.” we’ll continue to increase our budget.” Sound off: “We see all kinds of directions of Advice on Milan: “Milan has lost some of Favorite collections: Prada, Umit Benan. Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Neil Barrett. men’s fashion. I like the fact that it is a mix- its luster, and that’s despite the fact that Buying strategy: “The budget is the same as Advice on Milan: “Milan tends to get and-match idea for many houses by means of they have the best production sites. They last season, but, because of the strong euro patterns, fabrics, silhouettes and colors. Our better shape up. The ingredients are all — it’s up 30 percent vs. the yen — we will gentleman is getting more and more choices.” there, but Milan itself is not exactly elec- buy a little bit less.” Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, Jil trifying. Unlike Paris, where tourists shop, Sander, Prada. but also go out and have fun. [It would help Jimmy Chan, merchandising manager, Business strategy: “Our buying budget is a ] if a new international name appeared on men’s division, Swank, Hong Kong: bit up as the men’s business is growing.” the Milanese fashion calendar. Someone Trendspotting: “Ultralightweight jacket, Advice on Milan: “I think the efforts of the who would stir things up and bring in some overall printed yet in a semitransparent Italian Chamber of Fashion are very impres- freshness. Again, Italy is about quality and polyester fabric, is definitely a sure win- sive, and for me, Italy is still the most impor- savoir-faire, what’s missing is a master plan ning item. In terms of accessories, monotone tant country in men’s wear style. Pitti Uomo to put this to the fore.” sneakers and bicolored doctor’s bags are is truly a success and, every season, it is get- strong for the season.” ting more and more interesting by bringing Toby Bateman, buying director, Mr Porter, Sound off: “We saw a lot of conservative col- new designers from all over the world and London: lections for the season while innovation in all sorts of events. As a matter of fact, this is Trendspotting: “What really came through fabrications should be the key. Buyers are what is missing in the men’s fashion week. was black and white: layers of white, or lay- looking for newness and uniqueness in all Besides shows, there are nearly no hap- ers of black and black-and-white checks. collections to give a turnaround in such a penings — a same pattern for many years. Large-scale checks — most of the collections global retail recession, yet it is greatly de- I suggest the last show should be at 6 p.m. had checks of some sort. A hint of stripes — pendent on the creativity from designers.” and then, for the rest of the night, all buyers- thick or wide set — and a bit of print, but not Favorite collections: Les Hommes, journalists can enjoy the other part of fash- as much as this time last year.” Larusmiani, Giacomorelli. ion week such as an exhibition, an event, Sound off: “This is a general comment gatherings. It will bring more fun.” about men’s wear: There has been a grad- Carla Sozzani, owner, 10 Corso Como, Milan: ual rise in prices over the last couple of Trendspotting: “Colors, and there was har- Emmanuel de Bayser, owner and buyer, The years, and less choice at opening price mony of hues, with touches of fluoro at Jil Corner, Berlin: points. But it’s not necessarily representa- Sander, for example. I liked the fact that Trendspotting: “Sporty chic is still the pre- tive of what the consumer wants. They’re jackets returned to a longer length, not too vailing trend, building on the friction be- asking, ‘Why do we have to pay 20 percent short.” tween casual and elegant. It’s carrot pants more for this that we did last year?’ At the Sound off: “This was a good season. There with sneakers. Sneakers, leather jackets and same time, there is a group of superluxury was more effervescence than usual.” knitwear — also in the summer — are best- brands — like Tom Ford — at very high Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Z Umit Benan sellers. It’s pieces you can combine easily prices, and there is a demand for them.” Zegna. with others. We get a lot of tourists in Berlin, Favorite collections: Missoni, Neil Barrett, and they don’t come here to buy three suits Jil Sander. Magali Ginsburg, head of buying & category squeezed between the new and up-and- but separates, which is what I’m after.” Advice on Milan: “Milan is a city where busi- management, Thecorner.com: coming designers from London — which Sound off: “Milan showed a lot of color and ness is done and they struggle with the cre- Trendspotting: “We saw a lot of prints [batik, has become a strong week — and the very prints. It’s very optimistic fashion, and you ative aspect. Buyers and press who are looking wild] inspired by travels or architectural established Paris men’s week. There is not get the feeling that they are really push- for creativity will skip Milan and go to London. graphics [Bauhaus for Neil Barrett or East so much newness coming from Milan, and I ing the location, trying to establish a strong But maybe Milan might be happy with that. It’s Germany for Jil Sander]. In terms of shapes, think they will have to start pushing a new presence. However, it’s one thing seeing a question of what they want to be.” WWW.CERRUTI.COM