Channeling Schiap
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ALL ALAIA DESIGNER AZZEDINE ALAIA I THE PARIS SHOWS KICK OFF IS IN THE SPOTLIGHT I DESIGNERS BEHIND THE SCENES WITH A NEW BOUTIQUE AND AN EXHIBITION I BUYERS WEIGH IN ON MILAN IN THE WORKS. PAGE 2 WESTERN EXPANSION Chinese Designers Seek Higher Profi le By KATHLEEN MCLAUGHLIN BEIJING — A new wave of Chinese designers is pushing into Western markets, particularly Europe and especially Paris. Their motive is not only to attract foreign custom- THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ers but also to build credibility among Chinese con- sumers, who rely on what’s hot in Paris and Milan to WWD help drive their own fashion choices. It’s no secret that Chinese luxury buyers have be- come highly prized in the past fi ve years for their pen- chant for travel shopping, including buying trips to Paris and other destinations. The travel retail scene has made establishing a presence outside of China a vital strategy for homegrown designers and brands. The power of China’s buyers is massive and increas- ing. And despite concerns over cooling periods and guarded economic growth, China will potentially grow CHINA’S MOST SOUGHT-AFTER LUXURY BRANDS. PAGE 8 to account for one-fi fth of the global luxury market by 2015, according to a recent report from McKinsey & Co. The consultancy also noted that Chinese design- ers are lagging far behind their foreign counterparts in terms of sales and draw. By setting footprints in Paris and Beijing, designers like Shandong-born, Paris-based Laurence Xu and others are looking to catch up. Xu, who has until now focused on an exclusive clientele, is preparing for his fi rst runway show on July 4 during Paris couture season. Shiatzy Chen also shows in Paris and has retail shops in Paris, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau — some of the top shopping destinations for wealthy Mainland Chinese. SEE PAGE 8 Italia Independent Shares To Begin Trading Friday Channeling Schiap By LUISA ZARGANI It’s one of couture week’s most anticipated MILAN — Italia Independent Group SpA on Friday events: On Monday, Christian Lacroix will will make its debut on the AIM Italia Alternative unveil 18 ensembles in tribute to the late Capital Market, a segment of the Italian Stock Elsa Schiaparelli as part of Diego Della Valle’s Exchange for small and medium-size companies. The company, controlled by Lapo Elkann, will list 27 plan to revive the legendary fashion house. percent of its total shares, priced at 26 euros ($33.65), The onetime collection, including this magical with a market capitalization of 60 million euros, or lobster coat illustrated by Lacroix, will not be $77.7 million at current exchange. “This is not merely a starting point but a signal of for sale, though, and was made solely to be serenity,” chief executive offi cer Andrea Tessitore, who exhibited in Paris. As Lacroix put it, “It’s as founded the company with Elkann seven years ago, told WWD. “We have ambitious plans, and the path to if it was a musical about Schiaparelli, and the listing has been a very formative experience for I’m in charge of the costumes.” For more our team. In structuring the company, we’ve all grown on Schiaparelli, see pages 4 and 5. together, with an enormous effort,” explained the ex- ecutive, adding that he felt “proud and happy.” The offer was oversubscribed three times, with 40 percent of investors from abroad. Tessitore put the spotlight on what this initial public offering marks. “It shows that even a small fi rm, with a well-prepared management and clear ideas, can attract investors from all over the world. It’s not true that inves- tors from outside Italy don’t want to invest in our coun- try, but they set the bar higher, they need to be reassured that a plan will be brought to execution,” said Tessitore. He admitted that during the road show, in cities such as Paris, London and Geneva, the size of Italia SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2013 Alaïa on Exhibit, Store Openings the Briefing Box in october, alaïa plans to open laurent and Fendi, slated to By Miles socha a flagship at 5 Rue de Marignan. open during couture week. in Today’s WWd he said the main floor would be alaïa has tapped many of his PaRis — azzedine alaïa, who dedicated to accessories and design and artist buddies — in- toils away at his Rue de Moussy shoes, with ready-to-wear show- cluding Marc Newson, Martin headquarters in the Marais dis- cased over two upper floors. szekely and Kris Ruhs — to cre- trict, is spreading his wings fur- The 18th-century town- ate lighting and furniture for the ther in Paris. house, a stone’s throw from the imposing store. This fall, a retrospective exhibi- tony tree-lined avenue that is he said he would keep his tion of his designs to mark the re- home to designer stores includ- historic Paris retail location at opening of the Musée Galliera will ing christian Dior, Nina Ricci, 7 Rue de Moussy, which has no spread to a second site, the Musée Prada, Valentino, chanel and window display and buzzes in d’art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, Fendi, will also house adminis- shoppers and couture clients. including its famous salle Matisse, tration and accounting functions. During an interview in his the designer told WWD. “it’s going to become the sprawling kitchen, a pony-sized The modern art museum is second avenue Montaigne,” st. Bernard dog sprawled at his Iannaccone located roughly across the street alaïa predicted of the Rue de feet, alaïa said he’s already at homas t from the Galliera, which has Marignan, which runs roughly work on his first signature per- A resort look from been closed for renovation for parallel with the premier luxury fume, having inked a 13-year fra- Anna Sui. For more, by several years. strip, emanating from between grance and cosmetics license with see WWD.com. Photo Beauté Prestige international. The first alaïa fragrance is ex- pected to hit the market in 2015. A new wave of Chinese designers is pushing out into Western The brand, long prized by spe- markets, particularly Europe and most especially Paris. Page 1 cialty stores for its strong sell- through, has enjoyed a renais- Italia Independent Group SpA will make its debut on the sance in recent years, making him a go-to designer for models, art AIM Italia Alternative Capital Market on Friday. Page 1 dealers and fashion professionals. Naomi campbell, among his Designer Jean-Louis Scherrer — who passed away June 20 at age 78 — was remembered at an intimate service in ’’ inner circle, was recently in town shooting an editorial with pho- Paris Wednesday. Page 3 tographer Dominique issermann, the designer related. Kate Moss will appear in a film that will accompany Stuart While owned since 2007 Weitzman’s fall campaign. Page 3 by luxury group compagnie Financière Richemont sa, par- Christian Lacroix on Monday will help kick off couture ent of cartier, chloé, Dunhill week in Paris by displaying 18 ensembles he designed as a and other brands, alaïa retains a onetime tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli. Page 4 fiercely independent spirit. Feugere To wit: The designer took sharp George Zimmer sent an open letter to “The Men’s hane P exception to remarks by retail vet- Wearhouse Family” that attempted to clarify his position in te s eran Dawn Mello that were pub- the highly public battle with the firm he founded. Page 6 by lished in WWD on May 21. Mello said Martha “Marty” hoto American football player Victor Cruz, accompanied by his P Wikstrom — who resigned her longtime girlfriend Elaina Watley, was the top celebrity draw role as chief executive offi- cer of Richemont Fashion and at the Valentino men’s show on Wednesday. Page 7 accessories, a role she had been in since 2009 — had “launched French tabloid sensation Zahia Dehar is teaming with It’s going to become the azzedine alaïa in the U.s. and real- Cameron Silver for the U.S. launch of her couture and ready- ly built the brand internationally.” to-wear lingerie collections. Page 7 second Avenue Montaigne. alaïa said Wikstrom “launched nothing and built The Milan men’s collections offered enough novelty to — Azzedine AlAiA’s prediction nothing” for him, noting that keep retailers happy at a time when men are becoming of the rue de MArignAn. his brand has been present in increasingly demanding and sophisticated. Page MW1 america since the early eighties, when he staged fashion shows Kris Van Assche today opened his first signature boutique alaïa said the sprawling exhibi- the fashion canteen l’avenue at Bergdorf Goodman and the at 16 Rue Saint-Roch in Paris. Page MW2 tion, curated by olivier saillard, is and the céline boutique, Palladium nightclub. to showcase as many as 100 dress- which is moving to the avenue he added that the U.s. re- Gildo Zegna discusses the future of Ermenegildo Zegna es, all culled from his personal ar- Montaigne and will replaced by mains his largest market, and and going upscale. Page MW2 chive. Precise opening dates and Dior homme. he has partnered for years with other details of the showcase have alaïa praised the environs retailers including Barneys Coach has tapped Billy Reid for its latest collaboration, yet to be finalized, but it is sure to as one of true luxury. indeed, New York, saks Fifth avenue, a capsule collection of men’s and women’s bags and be a headline event on the fall cul- the avenue Montaigne boasts Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman accessories that will hit retail in September.