The Best Things to Eat in London for a Tenner Or (Way) Less Small £4 Iced Latte Ham & Cheese Toastie with a Selected Drink*

TA St E s tOTALlY NOrMaL. TIMEOUT.COM/LONDON October 6 – 12 2020 No. 2596

All the best things to eat in London for a tenner or (way) less Small £4 Iced Latte Ham & Cheese Toastie with a selected drink*

Ham & Cheese Toastie

USE OUR APP TO GET YOUR COFFEE DELIVERED, OR ORDER FOR COLLECTION IN STORE**

*Buy (1) either a Small hot or cold iced beverage, cold brew coffee, tea, Iced tea, any drink from our Flat Family range or any pre-packaged soft drink (excluding Seasonal drinks, Frostino, fruit cooler ); and (2) either a Ham & Cheese Toastie (excluding Wiltshire variant), a Vegan Ham and CheeZe, Tomato & Basil Soup or Egg sandwich for £4. Upgrade your Small hot or iced coffee to a Medium for an extra 30p or to a Large for an extra 60p. Meal Deal available from 11am to 3pm in our participating UK stores from Thursday 3rd September to Monday 2nd November 2020 inclusive. Subject to availability. For a list of participating stores and full terms and conditions see costa.co.uk/terms. **Delivery, Mobile Order, and Order at Table services are available across selected stores only. IMAGES FRIEZE: GAVIN TURK, MARUANI MERCIER; BRUNCH: BOURNE & HOLLINGSWORTH; LONDON FILM FESTIVAL: MOGUL MOWGLI © ROB YOUNGSON/PULSE FILMS/BBC Film Film Festival chats us through some puking on the tube at 3pm. We pick Bottomless brunch: not just idiots glittery glittery highlights of 2020’s hybrid some classier ones (and one with The grand vizier of the BFI London LFF is for film Basically limitless kebabs) great PAGE 32 PAGE 42 fest Inside This issue ofTimeOut This issue in notimeatall 7 City life 27 Things to Do 32 Food & Drink We borrow a pooch and go and check out

12 Global briefing 14 Really really cheap eats Put a woof over your head ‘Architecture for Dogs’ PAGE 30

FEATURES AND REGULARS 3 34 Love Local sculpure. In a park. In London. InLondon. sculpure. Inapark. In therain(probably). Lovely Everybody Everybody Frieze Internationally renowned 38 Escapes 41 Film

26 Exclusive offers vulnerable residents aubergine parmigiana and foccacia The food inititiave that’s been feeding SW11’s most Putting Putting the batter PAGE 28 in Battersea

PAGE 34 Time Out London October 6 –122020Time Hello, London Advertising 7813 6000, [email protected] Circulation [email protected] Joe Mackertich Global Editor-in-Chief Caroline McGinn London Editor London Editor Joe Mackertich @j_mackertich Deputy Editor/Chief Sub Editor Chris Waywell Deputy Chief Sub Editor Sarah Cohen

Features Kate Lloyd (Editor) News & City Life ‘Cheap’ gets a bad rap. We’re told that it’s artless, sweaty and Isabelle Aron (Editor) Events Katie McCabe embarrassing. Probably made from non-breathable materials. (Editor), Alexandra Sims (Deputy Editor) Cheap has issues. ‘Cheap’ is what your spinster great-aunt Film Phil de Semlyen (Global Editor) Mildred mutters when she sees the way young people dress Culture Eddy Frankel and Andrzej Łukowski these days. Cheap will need to be replaced inside of a year, Editorial Assistant according to the plumber. Cheap tricks, cheap shots. Dirt cheap. Django Zimmatore Global Commercial Editor But cities, by their nature, need cheap like zoos need non-exotic Stephen Farmer animals. No one’s come to see the shire ponies, but it can’t all Global Branded Content Editor Rose Johnstone be Arctic tigers and endangered neon dolphins. The walls of Commercial Designer Julia Robinson everyday life are not covered with gold leaf, but with Dulux*. Commercial Copywriter George Blew

Head of Digital Content Cheap food is the most necessary bit of all. Many of my Jordan Waller London Digital Director/ happiest London memories are from my youth, before I became Drink Editor Laura Richards Engagement Editor a warped, hate-filled media hypocrite. I didn’t think of food as Sam Willis International Editor cheap back then. It was just food. A meal’s value isn’t connected James Manning International Travel Editor to its price. It’s about the memories you make while eating it. Ellie Walker-Arnott International Commissioning And if those memories are made by hot grease running down Editor Huw Oliver

your forearm as you squat in a Brick Lane gutter, devouring Art Director Bryan Mayes Picture Desk Manager a quasi-meat substance like a dog, then, friend, Ben Rowe Photographer Andy Parsons this city has helped me eat like a king. Head of Production Dave Faulkner Production, Admin and Sales *Other mid-market paint brands are available. Support Katie Mulhern-Bhudia

Commercial MD EMEA Lawrence Horne Advertising Sales Ian Tournes (Director), Natalie Reynolds, Juliet Grant, Banbha O’Hagan, Three things you have to do in London Nesha Fleischer, James THE EDITOR’S ESSENTIALS Hooper, Robyn Eldridge, Emma Myland Creative Solutions Wayne Mensah (Director), Charlie Liddington, Nicola Foxwell Project Management Junior Olokodana (Project Management Lead), Nicki Wymer, Zara Taylor MD Global E-commerce Minesh Shah

Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno EAT this SEE this SHOP here Okay, is not at the National Gallery. I forgot how good Flotsam & Jetsam Titian Reckless Records Cover photography technically ‘in London’ but this The Big T. The Visionary of Venice. is. The Soho vinyl specialist Andy Parsons new-ish fish and chips booth in Tish. Go, gawp and immerse reopened a few weeks ago and Broadstairs is a cut above yourself in lavishness I urge you to visit

Time Out Digital Ltd 77 Wicklow Street, London, WC1X 9JY. FLOTSAM & JETSAM: @JOANNABONGARDPHOTOGRAPHY; TITIAN: DANAË, ABOUT 1551–3 © STRATFIELD SAYE PRESERVATION TRUST; RECKLESS RECORDS: SCOTT WISHART SCOTT RECORDS: RECKLESS TRUST; PRESERVATION SAYE STRATFIELD © 1551–3 ABOUT DANAË, TITIAN: @JOANNABONGARDPHOTOGRAPHY; JETSAM: & FLOTSAM @timeoutlondon facebook.com/timeoutlondon @timeoutlondon timeout.com/news www.timeout.com 020 7813 3000

NOT FOR RESALE IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 4 Available now

City life

Edited by Isabelle Aron @timeoutlondon

The hidden world of the hat ters Did you know that there’s a whole room at the Royal Opera House dedicated to making headgear? We chat to photographer Harry Cory Wright about going behind the scenes at the London institution

A ROOM FULL of wigs. A tutu storage unit. round corners and we’d come across these little it says something broader about the capital. ‘It A chamber stacked with guns and swords from vignettes of life,’ explains Wright. ‘You’d suddenly seems to me to represent so much of what London across the ages. Most people only ever get to see see ballerinas walking past you, someone singing is about – creativity, collectivity and humanity – the stage at the Royal Opera House, but behind behind a slightly open door or the guys making all things that London embodies in spades.’ the scenes, there’s a whole warren of secret stuff in the props department.’ The city has been through a lot since Wright staircases and passages that lead to spaces you’d Wright says the hat workshop, which works on took this photo last year. ‘Throughout the book never know existed. That’s what photographer up to headpieces every year, felt like the there are pictures that show intimate interactions Harry Cory Wright discovered when he went to ‘beating heart’ of the venue. ‘A lot of what I saw that can’t happen now. It’s a tragedy.’ He’s hopeful photograph the iconic London arts venue and were empty places – they imply human life but that the venue will return, along with the people came across an entire salon dedicated to making there’s no one there. But this picture shows these who make it what it is: the milliners, the prop hats (pictured above). people at the top of their game making exquisite designers, the tutu makers. ‘The Royal Opera The photo appears in a new book, ‘Royal Opera things among piles of chaos, but it’s not chaos at House is a beautiful thing, employing lots of House’, which shows snippets of the parts of all, they know exactly where everything is.’ ordinary but very skilled people.’ Isabelle Aron the building you never usually see. ‘I got shown The photo shows a small part of what goes on in ‘Royal Opera House’ (Thames & Hudson) is out now. £12.95. around and we’d go up stairs and down in lifts and this famous London building, but Wright thinks www.shop.roh.org.uk

7 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London City life E D YP ISH H Four Legs’ incomparable Dexter Cheeseburger D RECREATION I N S SECTI O WAY CR4

What goes into the London plates THE STREET THAT CHANGED MY LIFE that everyone bangs on about Actor and comedian on his WHEN CHEF DUO Ed McIlroy and Jamie the fly,’ explains McIlroy. ‘We thought: Michael Dapaah old neighbourhood Allan (aka Four Legs) took up residency That’s pretty good, we’ll put it on.’ It took at The Compton Arms in April last year, off, in a big way. Soon, they were serving their most famed dish wasn’t even on Dexter Cheeseburgers every week. THE ESTATE I grew up on the menu. A few weeks in, they decided Here, McIlroy talks us through the pair’s was on Recreation Way. they should serve a cheeseburger – it unexpected hit creation. ■ Isabelle Aron It’s also where my primary was a pub, after all. ‘We just made it on Four Legs at The Compton Arms. 4 Compton Avenue. £10.50. school was, which is where I found out I was creative. I lived on the estate from year until I went to university. My memories of that time are trying to The sauce figure out who I was. I was interested in acting and The bun ‘It’s just ketchup and comedy but nobody from ‘We get the brioche buns mayo, sometimes mustard. my area was doing anything from a tiny bakery. There’s We make our own mayo but like that. I started with no consistency: sometimes we use Heinz ketchup. I don’t sketches. I shot one of my they’re massive, sometimes want farmers’ market first ever sketch ideas in a they’re tiny but they’re ketchup anywhere near park on Recreation Way. always delicious. my burger.’ I quite like that.’ It was a place of identity for me. It formed who I was and whether I was going to let what I saw around me impact what I could see in my mind. None of my friends from the area saw themselves doing anything bigger than what had been done by the older lot. Some people had a good job, some people were getting up to illegal activities. But no one had ‘made it’ into entertainment. That road is where I learned to dream. It gave The burger me a sense of resilience. If I ‘It’s dexter burger mince, wasn’t in that environment, a bit of extra fat and that’s I might not have thought it. It’s not seasoned. We ball it out of the box. I like to have up and then whack it on the what I call ‘think drives’ and The extras grill, like a classic smashed revisit that road. It brings ‘We pickle cucumbers in patty. That gives it back so many memories and vinegar and sugar and we crispier edges.’ it helps me to remember how use raw onion, diced small. The cheese far I’ve come. ■ Interview by It tastes a bit like a Big Mac. Isabelle Aron ‘We use American burger It wasn’t deliberate but, cheese. I don’t even know Michael Dapaah’s series ‘SWIL’ is for me it’s a nostalgic available to stream on YouTube. taste.’ if there’s any dairy in it, but I think it’s the only cheese that should go in a burger. Blue cheese in a burger: what is that?’ Explore more of the city at PIP DAPAAH: MICHAEL PARSONS; ANDY BURGER:

timeout.com/thingstodo IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 8

City life W RD DO- GOODERS O N T HE STREET Four great London causes we want to highlightighlight ththis month The most ridiculous things we’ve overheard in London this week

‘It’s like a square, except it’s a circle.’ ‘If you’re going to start supporting Tottenham you’ll have to find another house to live in.’ ‘I’ve spent a lot of Beder PicUp Poster Bakes Feed the Hill time on Instagram They say ‘Beder is They say ‘We’re an They say ‘We sell vegan They say ‘We rescue pretending I have a a charity raising environmental doughnuts and deliver food that would end golden retriever.’ awareness around awareness campaign them by bike. The up in landfill and mental health and documenting PPE profits we make go distribute it to families ‘I’m here for the suicide prevention. We litter. We want to to The Connection at suffering food poverty. squirrels, not want to overcome the show that each small St Martin’s to support No one should go stigma around these action contributes to its work helping people hungry when there’s so the humans.’ incredibly important the bigger picture.’ move away from the much surplus food.’ issues.’ Razzak Mirjan, Alastair Cross, founder streets.’ Sharon Shamir, project ‘Monogamy is founder Why we love it This Ben Benton, director coordinator soooo .’ Why we love it From community project is Why we love it Why we love it What IRL football matches calling on Londoners Doughnuts made by an started as a Telegraph ‘If you had an to virtual cooking to track PPE litter ex-St John chef? Tick. Hill mutual aid group erection, you sessions, Beder brings and dispose of it. It’ll All profits going to a is now an ongoing wouldn’t have put people together to help donate to the NHS charity tackling rough community project them feel less alone. for every item found. sleeping? Tick, tick. helping more than “Motherland” on.’ How to help Buy its How to help Download How to help Within people every week. book ‘From Beder’s the Litterati app and three miles of Trafalgar How to help Donate to ‘We’ve gone from Kitchen’. All profits go use code PICUP-PPE to Square? Order some its Just Giving page. beefburgers to to the charity. join in the challenge. doughnuts, stat! www.justgiving.com/ divorces.’ www.beder.org.uk www.picup.org.uk www.posterbakes.com campaign/feedthehill ‘I’m gonna be such a ho when social distancing LONDON MAKERS is over.’ ‘I wish Australia was where Africa is.’ Making spirits started as a passion project for brothers Rob and Jim. Now, ‘I fell asleep with Asterley Bros is a fulltime business which the dentist inside sees them make English vermouth and my mouth.’ amaro in a workshop in Forest Hill. You can sample the fruits of their labour in their newly launched cocktail pouches. Cocktail pouches from £23.95. www.asterleybros.com Overheard something weird? Tweet us #wordonthestreet PARSONS ANDY BROS: ASTERLEY

@timeoutlondon IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 10 farrow-ball.com

You know we used that lovely Farrow & Ball paint

Yeah

And it’s wipeable

farrow-ball.com/modern-emulsion/claims Yep

6RPXGDQGVWXσLVQâWUHDOO\ a problem anymore

True

So there’s kinda no reason not to get a

MODERN EMULSION REMARKABLY UNMARKABLE City life

Edited by James Manning timeout.com/travel @timeouteverywhere

YOUR WORLD ACCORDING TO TIME OUT

The best stories from our editors around the globe

The ‘Fresh Prince’ mansion is now welcoming house guests

USA residents for five nights and sold WORLDWIDE Getting tired of apartment life? out immediately. No wonder: a stay Time Out Market is back, baby Wishing that your world could get comes with some totally ’s perks Great news, gourmands: our Time Out Markets in flipped turned upside-down into including a pair of Air Jordans and Lisbon, New York, Chicago, Boston and Montreal something a bit more… fresh? Then a virtual intro from Jeff. Sadly, it are officially open for business once again, check this out: Will Smith and DJ doesn’t include the famous white bringing their city’s best food, drink and culture Jazzy Jeff have teamed up with couch, as interior scenes of Uncle under one roof. Of course, social distancing and Airbnb to turn the LA mansion Phil and Aunt Viv’s house were – get sanitation guidelines are in place across the seen in ‘The Fresh Prince of Bel Air’ this – filmed in a studio. And poof! board, alongside expanded outdoor seating areas intro into a limited-time rental. The There goes your childhood. Michael and contactless ordering systems. We can’t wait mansion was made available to LA Juliano, Time Out Los Angeles until London’s intrepid food lovers can travel to visit us again. As they say in Lisbon, bom proveito! MARIE KEYSTONE; MUSEUM: LINDT PAUL; STEPHEN MANSION: PRINCE FRESH INC/ALAMY; COLLECTION EVERETT SMITH: WILL IMAGES Anna Ben Yehuda, Time Out USA (EDITED) TSE/ALAMY PATTY DOLPHIN: CARRETERO; BEATRIZ LIGHTHOUSE: DFREE/SHUTTERSTOCK; KONDO:

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 12 City life

Get the latest from cities worldwide at timeout.com/news

SWITZERLAND The world’s biggest chocolate museum has a 30-foot chocolate fountain You’ll be in sugary heaven at Zurich’s newly opened Lindt Home of Chocolate. The biggest chocolate museum in the world, it boasts the JAPAN planet’s largest chocolate fountain, pumping Marie Kondo wants tosort litres of the brown stuff around. Sorry, out your life in eightweeks you can’t dip your face in it, but there is an With a long, hard winter ahead, interactive tour with tasting opportunities, you’ve probably been wondering courses and masterclasses. If Willy Wonka were if now might be the time to finally Swiss, this would be his factory. Celeste Neill, make your disordered digs Time Out Switzerland #sparkjoy. If so, you’re in luck: www.lindt-home-of-chocolate.com/en/ Tokyo’s tidying guru Marie Kondo has just launched an eight-week online programme that’s free for anyone in the world to follow. The weeks are split into categories for different types of clutter, and each day is dedicated to smaller tasks like piling up all your papers or organising your data and digital files. By the end, your home should actually elevate your mood – just as well, given you’ll likely be spending a lot of time there this winter. Emma Steen, Time Out Tokyo www.konmari.com/category/tidy-challenge

SPAIN HONG KONG A lighthouse has had an arty makeover Pink dolphins are the latest beneficiaries of lockdown We need all the joy we can get in , so props Yeah, yeah, we know: nature is healing. But seriously, the Covid- outbreak may have to Spanish artist Okuda San Miguel for turning helped bring Hong Kong’s beloved pink humpack dolphins back from near-extinction. a previously nondescript white lighthouse into The endangered Indo-Pacific creatures reside in murky waters with little sun, leading a technicolour work of art. The Faro de Ajo near to a lack of pigmentation, and blush an adorable bubblegum pink when they’re excited. Santander has been painted in more than eye- They’ve dwindled in number over the years due to overfishing, pollution, congested popping shades, inspired by local wildlife and the waterways and having fewer young: scientists estimate that only are left in region’s cultural diversity, and retitled ‘Infinite the wild. But thanks to a lull in human movement, including the suspension of ferry Cantabria’. It’s the first time a lighthouse in Spain services between Hong Kong and Macau, sightings of the dolphins have risen by has been turned into an artwork, and it’s certainly percent since March. Researchers have even noticed them having more sex. Call it a brightened up our day. Ellie Walker-Arnott comeback! ■ Fontaine Cheng, Time Out Hong Kong

13 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 14 MY FELLOW QUEUERS all against The Pret Instinct. The voice look at me knowingly. Their sighing: Fuck it, just get one of those overly eyes say: Well done. Good oniony cheese toasties again. Instead, job. We have all discovered I meander until I scope out the likes of From a decent pizza something truly great here. Shoreditch Stop. I never have to go too far – Treat yourself to an extra samosa, yeah? these nondescript places are everywhere. for under four quid, I’m at Shoreditch Stop: a cornershop They’re always unglamorous. They might to an unmissable that’s home to such cheap good Indian not have a website. And yet, tellingly, food that it defies economic sense. Three alluringly, they are packed. patty at just , homemade curries, rice, poppadum – four I’m usually drawn in by the rules, meal- pounds, please! Sometimes, you really do deal parameters within which you have we’ve rounded up feel like you’re being pranked. to operate to fine-tune your choices. Just London’s best-value, I discovered it one lunchtime when I three of these six succulent curries, is it? A worked nights. I’d got into a habit of filling hulking sarnie with just two of ten fillings? most delicious dishes. my days with fun things: solo exhibition A meze bowl with fluffy grains or chewy trips; slap-up meals. The frequency with flatbread: make your call. Deliberation is Because low-cost which I did this – every spare afternoon – one of the joys of eating out with thrift. luxe sounds pretty meant it all had to be cheap. There’s also the sense of being part One day, I met a mate before work: ‘I of a clique. It usually starts with a tip-off. good about now. know a place,’ he said, leading me up Great A tentative debut visit. Then you’re in. Eastern Street. In front of us: an Itsu, a Pod, You own the secret: a thrill so cheap Photography a Veggie Pret. Between them: a store with you’re back here every week. Next thing ‘organic curry ’n’ rice – only ’ Sharpied you know, you’re the one giving the sly, Andy Parsons on the window. Oh! Now we’re talking. samosa-proffering looks. Welcome to Since that meal, I’ve learned to go the club. Huw Oliver

15 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Really

gelateria makes a speciality of them: a caprese buffalo mozzarella, tomato and rocket version will fill you up for just . 127 Kentish Town Rd, N15 3LX. Veg basic combination at Kokeb Run virtually single-handedly by delightful one-woman army Getenesh Gabiemichael, this tiny Ethiopian restaurant opened in , and the prices barely seem to have shifted since. The veg basic – three dishes, served on flatbread – will set you back just a tenner. 45 Roman Way, N7 8XF Buffet at Indian Veg For just you can plough your way through an all-you-can-eat buffet of veggie and vegan curries at this -year-old icon in Angel. The menu changes every damn day. 92-93 Chapel Market, N1 9EX. Smoked salmon bagel HOLY at Carmelli Baker y The service can be a little grumpy at this Golders Green institution. But if it’s tasty kosher treats you’re after, it’s tough to beat. Many loyal £6 customers go purely to satisfy their S ! sweet tooth. But if you want to really H I T fill up, the hefty smoked salmon bagel is a steal at . 126-128 Golders Green Rd, NW11 8HB Icco SOUTH Vegetable platter Thali at Jai Krishna at Everest Curr y King NORTH From cauliflower and chickpea, For , you can choose between to long bean and paneer, there’s four Sri Lankan curries and rice Avial at Rasa N16 no reason not to treat yourself to a Gozleme at this ever-changing Lewisham Over the past ten years, Stoke whole damn platter of veggie curries Soft, floury hangout. Think: pumpkin, vibrant Newington Church Street has filled at BYOB spot Jai Krishna (handily pancakes filled beetroot or chilli-spiked dry-spiced with pretty chic shops, bars and across the road from an off-licence) with spinach, potato numbers, ladled from behind restaurants, but none of them have in Finsbury Park. A thali here costs cheese, potato a counter. The decor’s constantly the star quality of Rasa and its bright just . It’s one of the more or lamb, Turkish transforming so expect a different pink restaurant front. Get Keralan expensive items on this list, but its gozleme are experience every visit. speciality avial here – a yellow curry vastness makes it well worth it. fried on massive 24 Loampit Hill, SE13 7SW. made with turmeric, coconut, green 161 Stroud Green Rd, N4 3PZ. circular hotplates bananas and mixed vegetables. It’ll by women in El pastor tacos cost you just . Curry goat at Caribbean Spice bandanas in shop at La Chingada 55 Stoke Newington Church St, N16 0AR. This brightly painted, family-run windows across The best tacos in London: there, Seven Sisters institution is small, London. It’s the we said it. Order two el pastor tacos Lahmacun at Cr ystal friendly and serves hearty food at a perfect lunch: hot, just as they should be and for a mere A fresh super-thin Turkish pizza – nice price: mains will set you back healthy, filling. . Either grab a takeaway or topped with spiced ground lamb, a mere to , so why not go nuts Get one from perch on a tall table outside as the onions, tomatoes and parsley – and with the delicious curry goat, Mediterranean Surrey Quays (yeah, random!) traffic chucked in a wood-fired oven until with white rice, or rice and peas? Cafe in Soho for piles up – this is street food, after all. crisp and charred at the edges 47 West Green Rd, N15 5BY. £6 or head out of 206 Lower Rd, SE8 5DJ. will set you back just under central to one of the red-and-white signage of this Panuozzo at Anima e Cuore the many places Meze at Persepolis beloved neighbourhood joint. Eat A panuozzo is essentially a pizza- on Green Lanes This café – squeezed between merch it inside – amid the sizzle of grilling dough sandwich, and as you can or Kingsland and spices at a Persian cornershop meat – or at a table out in the sun. imagine, it’s pretty darn filling. Road for an even – does unusual veggie takes on 522 Holloway Rd, N7 6JP. This dinky Kentish Town café and cheaper deal. Iranian and Levantine food. Get

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 16

Xxxxxxxreally

Attawa’s Gopal Krishnan is hooked on Roti King

Go on, Gopal, what made you fall for Roti King? ‘Roti King is a Malaysian restaurant. A lot of the dishes remind me of home, as there is a large Indian community which has influenced Malaysian cuisine over the years. It’s not glamorous like some restaurants – it is all about the food!’ a small meze for and enjoy surprises like fried plantains with What’s your order? Moroccan harissa, plus a comforting ‘I am a vegetarian and I tend to always order the same roti slab of warm bread on the side. Jianbing canai dish served with dhal. Roti canai is this delicious buttery 28-30 Peckham High St, SE15 5DT. Chinatown flatbread similar to an Indian paratha, the main difference is has incredible how it is stretched and rolled, giving it multiple crispy layers Pierogi ruskie at Mamuśka! bakeries, each when cooked. This dish costs £6 and you get two rotis and a South-east London’s perpetually serving up cheap generous serving of dhal.’ upbeat Polish restaurant has nibbles. There bounced around locations a few are hotdog- Any other highlights? times lately, becoming fractionally doughnut hybrids ‘The cheese-filled roti (£4) and the dessert roti kaya (£4), which fancier each time – the cheap milk- and countless is filled with coconut. It’s sweet and sticky.’ Interview Angela Hui bar vibes are a thing of the past at ultra-soft buns at 40 Doric Way, NW1 1LH. its hipstery Lambeth venue. But a Kowloon Bakery hearty plate of pierogi ruskie will on Gerrard still only set you back . Street. The pork 9 Addington St, SE1 7RY. floss roll at Newport Place’s Jerk chicken at Smokey Jerkey Chinatown Arguably the best jerk chicken in Bakery is the kind all of south-east London can be of snack dreams of hot avo, battered avocado tacos found in the foil containers dished are made of. But with ‘coconut bacon’ are the bomb out at this unassuming little corner the area’s unsung forf vegans. The menu recommends café in New Cross, served under a hero is the two tacos per person, but on large painted blue sign saying ‘healthy perfectly named tortillas,tortilla you could get away with food, healthy living’ (a motto to live Chinese Tapas just the onone on a budget – then grab a by). You can expect perfect sweet House on Little michelada to ggo as a substitute. and sticky meat for just . A proper Newport Street, 119191 RyeLRye Lane,ane, SE15SE15 4TP. hidden gem. where you can 158 New Cross Rd, SE14 5BA. pick up a jianbingbing ChickenChicken shawarmashawarma and for just £3.50.3.50. sasamosasmosas at FalafelFalafel aandn Baja fish tacos at Taco Queen It’s an enormousnormous ShShawarmaawarma Peckham’s hip Mexican joint has freshh pancake A glowingglowing wall of photograpphotographshs of pivoted to takeaway. Baja fish tacos filled withith stuffstuff meaty flatbreads, falafel dishes shot through with lime cream are like pickles,es, and salads sits above the rotatingrotating sausage and friedd sublime for just each and Chinese Tapas House meameatsts at Falafel and ShawarmaShawarma in while you may question the appeal bread. CamCamberwell.berwell. Don’t let it distractdist

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 18 Of course that we thought it might about tasting Oat- headline is talking be a good time for gurt instead of about how our new you to consider actually tasting Oatgurt products whether “normal” it, which is cool, taste, which might includes enlisting but if this ad ever seem super unambi- a cow as a pre- manages to makes tious, but if you processing plant its point and you were hanging around in order to make are somehow con- the Nordics in the that creamy cradle vinced to actually ’90s, you know that for your muesli. try this product, our early versions Or if it isn’t way you might totally of this product more normal to skip get it and realise were nowhere close the cow altogether this Oatgurt is to normal-tasting, in favor of using nothing like you with some consumers amazing food sci- expect, and by ence to turn oats that, we mean it is directly into a exactly like you delicious and sus- expect. Yeah, that tainable Oatgurt sounds about right. that comes in all your favorite status quo flavors packaged in color- even telling us, ful recyclable “This tastes like paper pots with sh*t.” So yeah, their climate we’re good with footprint right normal. Totally on the front? fine with it. And Yes, this is a since everyone little confusing, is talking about but only because “normal” right now, you are reading really

you from the best deal in the house, though. At this beloved café- takeaway you can get a juicy chicken shawarma wrap and four spicy, Bagels fragrant samosas for just a fiver. London deserves 27 Camberwell Church St, SE5 8TR. NYC’s bagel cred. For £4.70 you can Vegan tikka masala get (probably) the at Hullabaloo greatest sandwich Hullabaloo ain’t your regular curry in the country IT’S A MOOD IT’S A MOOD IT’S A MOOD IT’S house. In a nondescript shopfront here, Beigel just off Deptford market, you’ll find Bake’s meat- a few tables, some DIY counter seats, filled, mustard- vintage Bollywood posters and an slathered, pickle- open kitchen, from which emerges packed salt beef some truly great vegetarian Indian bagel. A work of street food, including hard-to-find sandwich art. Next vegan versions of classics like onion door at Beigel bhajis and naans. Get a vegan tikka Shop, the liver masala for , and you’ll have sausage bagel is enough left to kill a hangover (it’s £1.50. generously BYOB). 111b Deptford High St, SE8 4NS. WEST Spinach and agushi Shawarma at Spinach & Agushi This is about The portions are massive at the fresh, juicy lamb Portobello Market outpost of enveloped in a Ghanaian catering and takeaway small wrap and service Spinach & Agushi. For filled with pickled you can get an awesomely peppers and filling veggie meal, like the joint’s radish, garlic namesake curry: a mix of spinach, sauce and chilli melon seeds, mushrooms and sauce. Four bites tomatoes served with jollof rice. of heaven and Tuck in as you wander around the you’re done. Try vintage stalls. one at Al Balad 174 Portobello Rd, W11 2EB. Saturdays. and Palms Palace, both on Shawarma lamb sandwich Edgware Road at Ranoush Juice and both totally, Marble countertops give this totally perfect. Lebanese takeaway near Marble La Chingada Arch a vibe that’s almost as decadent as the shawarma it serves up. If you’re after all the indulgence of black pepper and nutmeg sesame marinated lamb at less than half the price you’d pay for a main here, get it Mixed veg roti at Roti Joupa Cottage is the kind of spot that’s so in a sarnie with tahini, salad, parsley Steamed As its name suggests, this dinky loved by locals that, right now, its and sumac for just . Extremely buns Caribbean takeaway specialises Facebook page is a highlight reel good stuff. Kept in display in huge discs of springy bread. Get of pictures of people delighted to 43 Edgware Rd, W2 2JE. cabinets in Asian one stuffed with spinach, potato, return there post-lockdown. The supermarkets pumpkin, beans or chickpeas, or, for dish done best here? Duck, in all its Pierogi at Café Maja at Posk and takeaways a mere fiver, all of the above. Despite forms. Get it boneless on rice for a Tucked away in Hammersmith’s around the city, the veg being smooshed together mere . Polish Social and Cultural buns are like inside the fat roti parcel, individual 9 New College Parade, NW3 5EP. Association is a back-to-basics caff exhibits in the flavours cut through. Curried serving some of the best dumplings world’s most meat versions are also available Callaloo patty at Eat of Eden in west London. Soft, pillowy and as humid, delicious for an extra few quid. It’s the most Fast-growing south London mini- comforting as David Attenborough museum. Get two nourishing snack in town. chain Eat of Eden has recently whispering in your ear, the pierogi from Oseyo and H 58 Goldhawk Rd, W12 8HA. brought its Caribbean-inspired here come boiled, fried and filled Mart, filled with vegan goodies to Shepherd’s with everything from roast pork and red bean or pork Boneless duck on rice Bush. There are stews, curries cabbage to sweet strawberry. They and greens, at Green Cottage and sticky plantain, but we like cost to . for less than a A simple, family-friendly Chinese the plump patties best. Light, 238-246 King St, W6 0RF. fiver. in South Hampstead, Green flaky pastry encases a well-spiced

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 20 D IT’S A

Tast y African delivers nostalgia for Chishuru’s Adejoké Bakare

Clue us up, Adejoké, why’s this fast- food chain a fave of yours? ‘I love their meat pies. They’re like cornish pasties: braised beef mince in spices, carrots, potatoes and gravy. They’re £1.50 but really well executed and delicious. They just take me back home to Nigeria.’

Why’s that? ‘The pastry is really close to that of an iconic Nigerian fast-food chain called Mr Bigg’s, which is our version of McDonald’s.So eating it is like having Big Mac when you haven’t had one in a while. The fact that they’re able to achieve that same crust is wonderful.’

What kind of pastry are we talking? ‘A cross between shortcrust and ROM puff. It’s got everything you want F from biting into a pie.’

Anything else we should order? £4.50 ‘I love their puff puffs. They’re deep- F fried sweet dough balls: £1 for four. O O Such a bargain.’ Interview Angela Hui R T W Multiple locations.

IT’S A MOOD IT’S A MOOD IT’S A MOOD IT’S A MOOD but not too spicy filling of dhal, vegetables or – our fave – callaloo EAST (a spinach-like vegetable). At a bargainous each, you should Lamb wrap at Umut 200 really try all three. It doesn’t matter if you go kofte, 76 Shepherd’s Bush Rd, W6 7PH. shish, liver or heart, the thing to order at Umut is lamb. Juicy, Masala dosa at Dosa Express spicy, fatty, excellent lamb. You can For the heartiest quick dinner get any of the above tucked into a you can buy for , get yourself wrap for just . Hell yes. to Wembley and plough your way 6 Crossway, N16 8HX. through a masala dosa. It’s a savoury crêpe, typical of south India, filled Pork-and-prawn siu mai with rich, spicy potato-and-lentil at Panda Dim Sum masala and served with zesty Clapton’s My Neighbours the chutneys and sambar to cut through Dumplings might be the most- all the carbs. It’s guaranteed to fill hyped east London dumpling chain, you up good and proper. but true dump heads know that TASTY AFRICAN: BEN ROWE BEN AFRICAN: TASTY 547 High Rd, HA0 2DJ. cheaper, tastier ones can be found

21 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London really

Andu Café

LET’S

Baps and £6 sarnies G Obviously, you O ! can get a bacon O O sarnie for a snip at any caff. But at a couple of places, you can get something really special. A bacon and scallop bap. just a few miles away in BYOB spot Desi breakfast at Chaiiwala Grilled chicken at Belly’s Taste Billingsgate Café Panda Dim Sum in Leytonstone. The If you’re after a cooked breakfast of Jamaica gets its scallops best-value of them all are the pork- with a difference, it’s worth taking With its bright yellow shopfront from just outside and-prawn siu mai at just p each. a peek under the dangling lights at and bold red stools, this friendly its door – it’s an 767 High Rd Leytonstone, E11 4QS. modern Walthamstow tea house takeaway is easy to spot in Hoxton. experience you Chaiiwala (part of a small London And you’re going to want to do just just won’t forget. Chicken noodle soup chain). For , you can kickstart that. This is the kind of joint where at Bánh Mì Hôi-An your day with a masala omelette, a marinated meats are perfectly The sunny yellow walls of this roti, masala beans or creamy dahl, charred on a hot smoking coal grill. Hackney banh mi shop set the tone and a cup of karak chai. It sure beats You can bag a portion of it for just for your mood when you leave. a lukewarm McMuffin and a tepid , leaving you the option of Everything here is around a fiver: stewed coffee. splashing out on fluffy dumplings tofu- or pork-stuffed baguettes and 225 Hoe St, E17 9PP. () and sweet homemade fruit noodle salads. The biggest steal, punch (). Lahmacun though? Soothing chicken noodle 291 Hoxton St, N1 5JX. The simplest of soup, which will set you back Turkish pizzas. and warm you up for the whole day. Tom yum goong at Singburi Savoury, tangy, 242 Graham Rd, E8 1BP. Everything on the menu at and super-cheap. Leytonstone’s Singburi is dreamy. Lots of places do Sampler menu at Andu Café This southern Thai spot is one of them as wraps This Dalston joint is the first in the best in the city, with a menu filled with salad the UK to serve traditional that’s updated daily. Think and pickles. The vegan Ethiopian food and it sets the caramelised pork, mackerel salad one at Mangal bar high. The menu consists solely and beef green curry. But if you’re Turkish Pizza on of sample platters (priced at per after something cheap, quick and Stoke Newington person). Each delivers a mixture of delicious, go for a bowl of tom yum Road takes some lentil and split-pea stews, greens goong ( ). It’s a spicy and sour beating, though and spiced potatoes, with spongey, prawn soup, flavoured with lime the crispy delights sour injera (a fermented flatbread) and lemongrass, that will make over at Antepliler on the side. your taste buds sing. on Green Lanes – 528 Kingsland Rd, E8 4AH. 593 High Rd Leytonstone, E11 4PA. come close.

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 22 cheap eats

CENTRAL Fiorentina pizza at Icco A whole pizza? In central London? For just ? That’s the magic of Icco, a family-run Italian that’s been serving up cheap, cheap pies from its bright green corner site on Goodge Street since . You can bag a margherita for here, but you should level up for the indulgence of the fiorentina – a salty, oily feast featuring a runny poached egg. 46 Goodge St, W1T 4LU. Falafel salad at Dukan 41 There are so many ways falafel can go wrong. It can be too dry, too claggy, too greasy, too dull. The falafels at Dukan aren’t any of that. They’re crisp-shelled balls of flavoursome fluff that you can bag Santiago Lastra from Kol on with all the trimmings – pickles, grains, tabbouleh, tahini sauce and why he loves Jen Café crispy fried bread – at the glossy takeaway. Your carb coma awaits. All right, Santiago, why’s Jen Café the place for you? 41 Greville St, EC1N 8PJ. ‘The authenticity. You can tell that it’s a family-run business and that people have a lot of experience. You can see the ladies Pork siu long bao making fresh dumplings in the window, that’s a good sign.’ at Dumplings’ Legend It doesn’t matter whether you opt What’s the vibe? for hot or classic spiced meat, the ‘It’s busy, but just enough to make you feel like home and not pork dumplings at this Cantonese overcrowded – it has a simple interior but the hospitality you stalwart in Chinatown work out at experience there transports you to another place. The owners an extremely reasonable p each. are lovely, super-quick and have a good sense of humour. They The only problem? They taste so Kebab rolls have respect for quality ingredients and a good, fair price.’ damn good (herby, satisfying and If you’re smart, substantial) that we guarantee you’ll you’ll know that Enough of the niceties, what do you usually order? finish a portion of eight ( ) when you’re in ‘The vegetable dumplings (£5) and the fried pork dumplings ready to take on even more. a kebab shop, (£6) – they are amazing.’ Interview Angela Hui 15-16 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. you need to skip 4-8 Newport Pl, WC2H 7JP.- the doner or Chip butty at Poppies Soho the shish, and Fish and chips is one of those go straight for fast-food meals that, if you want the kebab roll. to get a nice version of in London, We’re talking two always seems to be unnecessarily skewers of highly expensive. The solution? Head to spiced ground one of the city’s besbest chippies (that’ll meat kebab, in a favour of some of its crisp-on-the- Supreme Singapore rice be Poppies) but skskipip tthe fish in pillowy naan, with outside-soggy-on-the-inside chips noodles at Cafe TPT oodles of chilli squished into soft bread for . The menu at Cantonese- sauce and some Order with lots of butter and even Malaysian street food specialists cursory salad. more vinegar. Cafe TPT is huge, with every It’s an option in 55-59 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. Hong Kong café snack you’d ever the south Asian want to eat. But skip to the dishes kebab houses Margherita pizza listed as ‘Tai Pei Tong Hawkers’. more than the at Pizza Union Here you’ll find the kind of Turkish ones. It’s super-quick, it’s satisfying and affordable moreish treats that you Various places the Roman-style base has all the can buy at the roadside in the city. alonga Brick Lane shattering crunch of a Ryvita Thin. Go for the extremely stretchy and serveser them, but Pizza Union’s margherita won’t be wok-smoked Supreme Singapore the bestb is at the best slice you’ve ever had, but rice noodles for a lunch that will Seth’sSeth’s SpiceSpic Hut it’s only for a very respectable keep you obnoxiously full for in Walthamstow.Walthamsto fire-baked ". That’s twelve inches, just six quid. ■ Kebab roll andand for the cost of an overpriced coffee. 21 Wardour St, W1D 6PN. an onion bhaji for Plus you get handed one of those £4.50? There’s a buzzy things to tell you when yours reason the queue is ready. Literally minutes of fun. Find more great eats at is so big.big. 145 City Rd, EC1V 1AW. timeout.com/food

TimeTiTimTiimmeOe OOutut London October 6 – 12 20220200 24

TIMEOUT.COM/OFFERS LOND N FOR LESS

Food, drink, screenings, pop-ups: don’t miss our exclusive offers and discounts

Crowne Plaza

What is it? A spa weekend for two, complete with an overnight stay, a spa treatment, breakfast, full use of the wellness facilities and a three-course dinner. Why go? To get the break you deserve. It’s important to look after yourself in these weird times, so grab someone you love and hit the road. Wait, how much? . That’s (technically) less than per person, fyi. Crowne Plaza Marlow. www.timeout.com/crowneplaza

Reflexology The Gate Inamo 100 Wardour St What is it? A type of massage What is it? A three-course dinner What is it? Bottomless drinks AND What is it? Oh, just three courses therapy where they poke your feet and a glass of wine at a venerated bottomless dishes at Inamo’s Soho and a glass of vino in a swish Soho to treat corresponding areas on your veggie restaurant. or Covent Garden restaurants. spot for less than . body. We don’t know about all that, Why go? Because for nigh on Why go? For a -minute feast of Why go? Besides the price? The but we do know you’ll get percent years this St John’s Wood joint has sushi and small plates (and booze, food sounds cracking. The dishes off a consultation and treatment. served up some of the best plant- of course) that will leave you in one have been dreamed up by Gordon Why go? Supposedly, reflexology based plates in London. Don’t of the most contented food comas Ramsay’s protégée Kim Woodward, can achieve levels of relaxation you believe us? Maybe the slew of slebs you’ve ever had. And the high-tech so they should deliver big time. didn’t even know existed. That’s got that have visited over the years will table are really fun to play with. Wait, how much? We told you: less to be worth trying at least once. change your mind. Wait, how much? Down from an eye- than . Okay only by , but Wait, how much? Just . Wait, how much? Normally? . watering , you’ll pay . is still a total steal. MD Massage Therapies. For you, it’s only . Inamo Soho or Covent Garden. 100 Wardour St. www.timeout.com/reflexology The Gate. www.timeout.com/gate25 www.timeout.com/inamobottomless www.timeout.com/100wardour19

Theatre, music, events: get the best deals in town. Search ‘Time Out offers’

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 26 Things to do in London

Edited by Katie McCabe timeout.com/thingstodo @timeoutlondon

Cosmic dancer and choreographer Michael Clark can see the future – just look at him here, anticipating our MICHAEL CLARK IN A PUBLICITY PHOTOGRAPH FOR MMM…, 1992 © HUGO GLENDINNING HUGO © 1992 MMM…, FOR PHOTOGRAPH PUBLICITY A IN CLARK MICHAEL moves at that first club night after lockdown. Turn to p to read about his Barbican retrospective. IMAGES

27 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Things to Do Cheap dates London Cocktail Week London’s bars are facing their most challenging year, so think of this Cocktail Week as Eat Out to Help Out, but for boozers. A digital pass entitles you to cocktails in some very swish-looking places throughout October (for perspective, a mezcal cocktail at Dalston’s Hacha would normally set you back ). There are virtual masterclasses to get involved with, too, so when you inevitably get kicked out at the pm curfew, you can say ‘fuck you’ to bedtime and make some Pisco Sours of your own. Various venues. Until Oct 31. £15. www.londoncocktailweek.com.

Mini cines E ‘Dig!’ film screening Before the landfill indie crowd had even begun to backcomb their hair, The Dandy Warhols and The Brian Jonestown Massacre were devouring every scrap of ’s pop culture to deliver pun- filled psychedelic rock to a s audience. Ondi Timoner’s documentary ‘Dig!’ follows both bands over seven years, capturing the highs of success, the lows of ‘selling out’ and some real Frieze Sculpture Park catastrophes. Watch it on a rooftop and leave with ‘Bohemian Like You’ wedged into your frontal lobes for days. ‘Ooh, ooh, oooooh’. magickal sex rituals, he was creating Dalston Roof Park. Oct 12. £7. Outdoor art Vibey jazz his own divinatory set of tarot cards. Crowley’s Thoth Tarot deck was Celebrating C Frieze Sculpture Park S Jazz on a roof designed using the vivid symbolist Chadwick Boseman Every year, Frieze Sculpture If you’re going to call your group paintings of Lady Frieda Harris. Get Chadwick Boseman was turns the English Gardens The Banger Factory, you better be to know the cards over mocktails at clear in his goals as an R E of Regent’s Park into an ready to deliver. The Brixton jazz Magus Coffee Shop, a cosy space for actor: he wanted to play F E outdoor art gallery – outfit won’t give you pop bops, but art, indie comics and surprisingly pioneering figures in which is extremely hard bops? Those they’ve got. The good vegan pancakes. African-American handy now that Factory lads play their own sweet Magus Coffee Shop. Oct 8 and 15. £10. history, and became indoor art is a lot material for their Thursday night one in the process. harder to organise. residency at The Prince of Wales, led Tarot for beginners He starred as Jackie This year’s trail by young trumpeter Mark Kavuma. Cups, pentacles, wands, a creepy Robinson, the first will feature works The Prince of Wales. Oct 8 and 15. Book a booth skeleton man who swings a scythe Black man to play in A R T selected by Clare Lilley, from £25 for four people. around like it’s a golf putter: tarot is a American major league the director at Yorkshire lot to get your head around. If you’re baseball and portrayed civil Sculpture Park (which is very determined to learn, you can book rights activist and lawyer Thurgood much worth a trip up north, fyi). in for an online course organised Marshall. This season of his films Keep an eye out for sculptures by by Treadwell’s, a lovely little shop will close with one of his biggest hits: Lubaina Himid, Richard Long, Tarot readings in Bloomsbury that specialises in ‘Black Panther’ and one pound from Sarah Lucas and Rebecca Warren. Or witchcraft. Over four weekly Zoom every ticket will go to colon cancer choose the autumn-weatherproof E Tarot, tea and mocktails sessions, pro tarot guy Adrien charity tude. It’s a chance to option of viewing them online in the Aleister Crowley was a poet, painter, Mastrosimone will start you off with remember not just what we lost, but new Frieze Viewing Room. occultist, ceremonial magician the basics and then build you up to the immense legacy he left behind. Regent’s Park. Until Oct 18. Free. www.frieze. and all-round mega-weirdo. When doing readings of your own. Various Picturehouse cinemas. Oct 11. £8. com/fairs/frieze-viewing-room he wasn’t writing about drugs and Nov 4-25. £100. www.treadwells-london.com FABIO LATTANZI ANTINORI, 2020, AD KEYWORDS, COURTESY OF PI ARTWORKS AND THE ARTIST THE AND ARTWORKS PI OF COURTESY KEYWORDS, AD 2020, ANTINORI, LATTANZI FABIO C Central N North S South E East W West Streaming Outdoors IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 28 Day parties Pumpkin BEHIND THE LIPPY N Pulse Day to Night Party pickin’ Let’s put a positive spin on this pm curfew... okay, erm… so… Crockford Bridge Farm Diane Chorley NOW IS THE DAWN OF THE DAY If we can’t dress up as Joe Exotic PARTY. No, not a ‘night that spilled and make out with a questionable into noon the next day and now you stranger who claims to have come just need some support from the as ‘Mark Zuckerberg surfing’ in the group chat and a Capri-Sun’ day hallway at a Halloween house party, party. We’re talking day disco on you can be damn sure we’re making a terrace at Costa del Tottenham, the most of pumpkin season. Do a starting at pm, ending by a safe and swift rebrand and call it ‘wholesome legal pm, with DJ sets from Pulse Halloween’, with a day out picking Radio (the official station of London pumpkins in a field in Surrey. School of Economics). Yes, it’s New Haw Rd, KT15 2BU. Oct 9-11. £4, which will essentially a freshers’ party, be deducted from the cost of your pumpkin. and they’re thin on the K E ground at the moment, E N so if you’re one of E London the poor bastards D that started uni this W drag month, get booking. I Costa del Tottenham. Oct 7. N S E Drag Brunch From £28 for four people. E The year was R A V the peak of the novelty S Craig Charles Funk nostalgia brunch, a time and Soul BBQ when people were swimming He starred in ‘Red Dwarf’, he trod in ballpits while someone served the cobbles of ‘Corrie’, he presented eggs nearby. The enthusiasm dried ‘Robot Wars’ and did we mention up faster than the promised ‘ he once had a column in this very hours of bottomless prosecco!’. But magazine? Craig Charles gets one event that endured was the around, and brings his trunk of funk drag brunch, because few things S Diane Chorley: Greatest Hits LIVE wherever he goes. No matter what are better suited to the overblown She’s seen it all has Diane. In the 1980s, she ran he’s up to, he’s always moonlighting bougie notions of this made-up The Flick, the hottest nightclub in Canvey, Essex, as a DJ, and the next stop is a meal than a six-foot queen asking where she served chicken kievs to Des Lynam and daytime barbecue set on the terrace for a bite of your pancake. They are rubbed shoulders with Jagger. Behind the scenes, her of Brixton Courtyard. so ubiquitous you can find them glamorous life was plagued by crime. But she won’t Brixton Courtyard. Oct 10. From £75 for six in West End casinos, but they’re let her chequered (and if you hadn’t guessed, entirely people. Tickets on the door only. also still happening at great queer made-up) past get her down. The ballad-crooner (and venues like Dalston Superstore, drag artiste) is on the cusp of yet another comeback. where kitschy power brunches are held every Saturday and Sunday, Why is now the time for your greatest hits? noon to pm, with a rotating bill ‘Cos it’s bleeding armageddon and the world needs a Oktoberfest of London drag stars. a tasty little disco beat. If I have to listen to one more Dalston Superstore. Every weekend. Prices vary, advert with some bugger singing along to an acoustic C Bierschenke book a table in advance. guitar in a baby voice I’m gonna lose the plot. I want Giant steins, cold warehouses and horns with my Corn Flakes, you get me, babe?’ questionable promotional material C The Enby Show of women in dirndls: Oktoberfest in Are you reading this on a Tuesday How have you been entertaining yourself in lockdown? London can be unbearable. Trying morning? Good. Now listen up: ‘I lost my thumbs to Candy Crush. Drank so much Cup to find a good one is just chasing you have mere hours to book a a Soup I smelt like a stock cube! I even hit the Baileys a luftschloß (that’s German for an ticket to a night of burlesque, glam whilst watching “Homes Under the Hammer”. If I’d unrealistic dream, or ‘air castle’ if pop and biblical drag. ‘Enby’ is have kept on like that, I’d have been doing shots of you want to get literal about it). But the pronunciation spelling of the Aftershock whilst watching “Come Dine with Me”.’ if you’re going to go for it, try and letters NB, and The Enby Show is find one that at least vaguely all about celebrating the ‘crème Which celeb was your favourite of The Flick’s heyday? resembles a Munich beer de la crème’ of non-binary drag ‘Bowie would sit at the bar with a pint of Nesquik. hall, like Bierschenke in and cabaret talent. Enby Tina Tuner liked her own private finger buffet and ballpit. Liverpool Street. It’s been was meant to happen last It was the young ones you needed to look out for: if I had at it for a decade, serving up week, but was rescheduled a fiver every time I pulled Shane Richie off a chandelier traditional Bavarian wurst to to tonight, Tuesday October I’d be the American president.’ thousands of Londoners ¡, the very same day Time every year. And unlike Out London comes out. What do you miss most about the 1980s? a lot of other soulless Coincidence? Let’s call it a ‘They ain’t looking too dissimilar to now, babe: nobody’s stein-peddlers, entry sign that you need to leave got a job, the country’s on its knees. The only thing we for this one is free. the house and see some ain’t got that we had in the ’80s is a good old-fashioned Bierschenke Liverpool St. lip-syncing, asap. glamorous knees-up with more sequins than a Primark Thu-Sat until Oct 31. Free The Phoenix Arts cushion. Get yourself down to The Clapham Grand and entry, but book your place Club. Oct 6. From £24 it’ll be 1980 all over again!’ ■ Interview by Katie McCabe Dalston Superstore brunch in advance. for two people. The Clapham Grand. Oct 13. £40.50 for two.

29 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London FREE STUFF We let a dog loose in a AFTER DARK London gallery at the Museum

Thursday nights in October 18:30-21:00 Over 18s only / Tickets £15 Soak up the atmosphere after hours. Grab a drink, explore exhibitions free from crowds, and show off your trivia skills in a weekly pub quiz.

Book online at ltmuseum.co.uk/afterdark

W ‘Architecture for Dogs’ Dogs do not need to prove themselves to us, but they’ve really stepped up recently. After the initial head-cocked ...from home confusion of ‘why are you home at 2pm on a Tuesday, buddy? Have you been fired?’, they helped to keep the lockdown doom away, one tail-wag at a time. Explore our museum from the comfort of your But I wouldn’t know much about that, because I do not home. Visit our Noteworthy Women online have a dog – I had to steal one from a friend so I could get the most out of this exhibition. exhibition and play our banknote checking game. Only small-to-medium pooches are allowed into ‘Architecture for Dogs’, a partly interactive show of designs created with specific canine breeds in mind. This makes sense: Japan House, where it’s being held, has a shop filled with expensive ceramics on plinths. Nino – the dog I have stolen – is allegedly a chihuahua MUSEUM but looks more like a dobermann that got zapped with a shrink ray, so he’s allowed in. The display is fairly minimal, but it’s obvious how much fun these big-name architects had imagining a dog as their ‘client’. One structure from Atelier Bow-Wow is made to help dachshunds meet their owners’ eye-level (their stubby legs make it hard to hop up on a chair). There’s even a ‘wearable’ design for chihuahuas, which Nino shows absolutely no interest in. Things are more fun in the interactive bit, where I can let Nino off the lead to run through the maddest designs. It feels like we’re competiting in a Surrealist Crufts. As an exhibition, this won’t blow your mind, but if you’re a London pet owner who spends a lot of time on Follow @boemuseum on street corners googling ‘is The Coach & Horses dog www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum friendly?’, then this weird little afternoon out is for you. ■ Katie McCabe

Japan House. Until Jan 10 2021. Free, book in advance. MCCABE KATIE NINO: IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 30 Things to Do Exhibitions Bingo kitsch Peckham Ghost stories forhumans E Dabbers Social Bingo daysout C Ghost Show Dabbers’ shtick is all about Mind reader and storyteller Dusty C ‘Artemisia’ reinvigorating the classic game S Peckham Record Fair Rose will be doing his best to scare Before The National Gallery while ‘respecting the roots’. You’ll Spend a day crouched over plastic the bejesus out of us at this modern acquired its first painting by find comedians instead of callers, crates across record stalls. Hi-fi take on a Victorian ghost show. the Baroque artist Artemisia burlesque dancers instead of fruit dealers will be on hand with all the Séances and ghost stories had a Gentileschi, it owned just machines and vegan tacos instead gear you need to turn you into an renaissance in the Victorian age and artworks by women in a collection of lasagne at its bingo hall, which audiophile bore. You’ll be shouting this evening aims recreate some of of . That’s percent. With has just reopened with reduced at your mates to ‘hold the record by the era’s inherent creepiness with its new major Gentileschi solo capacity and plenty of PPE. the OUTER EDGES’ in no time. supernatural candlelit storytelling. exhibition, the NG has shown us 18-22 Houndsditch. From £16. Copeland Park. Oct 11. £1 entry. Swiss Church. Oct 10-11. £15. just how much it has been missing. Her paintings are brilliant, bold and blood-spattered, At the their cinematic violence enhanced drive-in by her skilful use of chiaroscuro. N Deezer’s She has not been ’80s Drive In ‘rediscovered’; It’s reached the Artemisia’s paintings point where we are have been written so deprived of live about in the gigs, we’ve had to academic sphere and dredge them up beyond, for decades. from the past. At She was always a this ’80s-themed master of her era, drive-in show, you the difference is, can watch concerts we finally have the from some legends of chance to see her the decade including work on the grand Madonna’s 1985 scale it deserves. ‘The Virgin Tour’ The National Gallery. and Prince’s 1987 Until Jan 24 2021. £20. ‘Sign o’ the Times’. Even the food prices C Michael are retro (popcorn Clark: ‘Cosmic and a soft drink for Dancer’ 90p, yes please) and If anyone really leg warmers are has managed to encouraged. We’ll dance themselves leave you to work out right out the womb, how to vogue without it’s probably bruising yourself on Michael Clark. The the handbrake. maverick dancer Troubadour Meridian and choreographer Water. Oct 7. £15 per car or abandoned his car-free bay. first job with Ballet Rambert for the N ‘Escape from punk fashions and Pretoria’ club culture of Surely October is too 1980s London, and this show is a N Rebel Bingo S Peckham Salvage Yard rainy for a drive-in cinema? Wrong. comprehensive sweep through his Ally Pally is opening its doors Weekends were made for digging Alexandra Palace is determined to career which he spent mashing up again for indoor shows, just like through other people’s cast-offs, give us our Americana kicks with its post-punk with classical ballet. in the olden days we’ll tell our and you’ll find plenty of them at Drive in Film Club. In a change from See Clark’s original style through kids about. The West Hall of the this huge vintage market. Bring the usual ‘Grease’ singalongs and film, photography, paintings and People’s Palace will host this plenty of hand sanitiser so you ‘Dirty Dancing’ quoteathons, it’ll be sculptures, alongside his legendary madcap live bingo show with foul- can riffle through twee ceramics, showing ‘Escape from Pretoria’, a collaborations with cult icons like mouthed number-calling, decent atomic-age electricals and battered taut prison-break drama about anti- Leigh Bowery, Sarah Lucas, The prizes (motorbikes, jukeboxes and antique luggage. If you’re lucky apartheid activists played by Daniel Fall and Wolfgang Tillmans. This is guitars have all been given away) enough to be an SE15 local, nip Radcliffe and Daniel Webber. Stick the first major exhibition to place and glitter cannons. The music round the corner early to land a around for a Q&A with the director Clark within the wider cultural at Rebel is always OTT, switching bargain. Francis Annan. context of his time, plus his anti- violently from rock to ’s jams Copeland Park. Oct 10-11. £1 entry. Alexandra Palace. Oct 15. £50 per car. establishment angst will look even to old-school garage to hip hop to more glorious against the Barbican’s ’s cheese, and maybe even a bit brutalist backdrop. of… HOUSE! Like what you see? Find more at Barbican. Oct 7-Jan 3 2021. £15-£17. Alexandra Palace. Oct 31. £12-£16. timeout.com/thingstodo

31 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Food & Dr ink

timeout.com/eatdrink @timeouteatdrink

Not-hateful bottomless brunches They might have a basic rep, but the curfew means boozy late breakfasts are about to come into their own. Here are some actually very good ones

The extremely carby one for the city’s scenesters to party at Stripped walls, hanging hams, super-exclusive disco nights. It’s 1a lovely view of Goodhood… no wonder, then, that its King’s hip Shoreditch tapas spot Brindisa Cross outpost feels very, very hip. doesn’t look like the kind of place Its restaurant Double Standard – that would do unlimited cava and with its sleazy ’s aesthetic and sangria on the weekend. But it dive-bar menu – is a big ol’ part of does. Plus vast quantitiesties that. OOn Sundays, it hosts of extremely high- bottomlessbot brunch, quality Spanish food. withw unlimited Ziggy Green At its bottomless Bloody Marys and brunch, nibble on a brunch burger ham croquetas and with, er, Bloody padron peppers Mary ketchup before gorging (plus American have set up in London over the past The Aussie one on a ‘feasting’ classics like banana few years, it’s a sort-of industrial, Tricia Jadoonanan, exec chef paella. It sounds pancakes). It’s also sort-of retro space where tough-nut 4of Ziggy Green, is a former like a classy way to get got a very nice, sunny chefs chuck huge hunks of meat on Ottolenghi staffer. So it’s no surprise horrendously bloated Bad Egg terraceterr if eating breakfast to charcoal fires in a central open that she knows flavours. The food very quickly, and we’re well in a space that screams ‘am kitchen. At the weekend you can here is punchy as hell: sweetcorn into it. afterparty’ feels wrong. sit back and watch the show with fritters with habanero peppers, 152 Curtain Rd, EC2A 3AT. £35. 10 Argyle St, WC1H 8EG. From £30. unlimited cocktails and a platter bacon rotis with chilli-spiked mayo, of Asian- and Latin-spiced flesh. shakshuka with charcoal sourdough The one that’s imported The barbecue one Think: impossibly juicy pork and and something called a ‘healthy from LA Temper’s held a solid top-ten full-flavoured, smoked and ‘blow- start’: poached eggs, loads of veg When the original, ultra-sleek spot on our Best Restaurants torched’ mackerel, tucked into and maple celeriac toast. Wash it all

2 3 KAZIM LEYLA GREEN: ZIGGY CHASSEROT; SCOTT EGG: BAD Standard hotel opened in LA, it was list since it opened in . One of tacos and flatbreads. down with minutes of Mimosas.

a place for hyped bands to stay and a wave of chic barbecue joints that 5 Mercer Walk, WC2H 9FA. £39.50. 1 Heddon St, W1B 4BD. £39.50. IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 32 Munch more brunch at timeout.com/food

The one that will cure your hangover 8Bad Egg might be in the City, but it feels more like a set from a Safdie Brothers movie than a hangout for Johnno after a hard day crushing Q. The menu is a curated list of the world’s best hangover cures. Choose two dishes from it, plus unlimited booze. There’s a posh take Shack-Fuyu Soho on a sausage-and-egg McMuffin, beef-burger hash made with crispy potatoes, and french toast. There’s also poke and acai yoghurt if ‘eating something healthy’ heals your The one with bottomless churning stomach x pounding head kebabs better than fat and carbs. Weirdo. 6Two hours of unlimited pork CityPoint, 1 Ropemaker St, EC2Y 9AW. shawarma isn’t a meal plan for the £23.50 (no booze), £35 (with booze). faint-hearted but the brave souls who step up to the plate at Maison Bab are The one for indecisives lavishly rewarded. The bottomless Paddington on a Sunday might brunch menu features all-you-can- 9not yell ‘party time’ but that’s eat smoky meat – and we mean ‘slow- when Pergola – a vast, greenery- cooked over charcoal for hours’ packed rooftop – becomes a rave stuff . Veggies can plough their way space for the era of curfews and five through unlimited sabich (a plant- friends. It has loads of bookable based stuffed pitta). For more, benches, a perspex roof and heated accompany your protein gains with areas. Thirty quid gets you unlimited endless Espresso Babtinis, Daiquiris prosecco or Aperol Spritzes for Two or Blood Orange Spritzes. three hours, while you nosh on 4 Mercer Walk, WC2H 9FA. £20 for food, brunch deals from resident traders. hours of £20 extra for booze. Our recommendations? Loaded halloumi fries from Babek Brothers unlimited The eco-conscious and aubergine katsu rice bowls from pork Japanese one Temaki Bros. 7You can tell that Shack-Fuyu 4 Kingdom St, W2 6PY. £30 for booze; Soho is very cool because at the £5 per food dish. shawarma top of its bottomless brunch menu The good basic one isn’t a there’s a note to diners to think about The holiday one Bourne & Hollingsworth does food waste and only order what they Few London restaurants 5bottomless brunch in its meal can eat. The Japanese joint (run by 10 channel big holiday purest form. The venue? A light- Bone Daddies) has a morning menu energy like El Pirata. The luxury drenched conservatory, filled with plan for that starts with plum soy duck buns Mayfair spot has the vibe of a ferns and palms. The menu? Two and miso aubergine, heads through fancy joint on a Spanish city break. courses of simple breakfast food – the faint- big dishes like chilli yakiniku beef Bottomless brunch comes with free- smoothie bowls, pancakes, avo on fillet and mushroom katsu curry flowing sangria and beer and is more toast, hash browns – alongside as hearted and lands in a giant sharing platter about snacking on very good small many Bellinis and Bloody Marys as of kinako french toast to finish. And plates – padron peppers, tortilla, you can handle, plus hot drinks. It’s it’s all served in a moody NYC dive- prawns with chilli, garlic and olive a formula that’s been copied across bar-style space that’ll trick you into oil – than eating and drinking the city, but these lads do it properly. thinking it’s pm not am. yourself into a stupor. ■ 42 Northampton Rd, EC1R 0HU. £37. 14A Old Compton St, W1D 4TJ. £39. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. £35.

33 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Love Local

Edited by Kate Lloyd timeout.com/lovelocal

The eco pop-up that’s now essential to Battersea The Waste Not Want Not initiative is helping to feed SW ’s most vulnerable locals

UNTIL A FEW weeks ago, on Tuesdays help support WNWN’s work. Wandsworth at the Capitan Corelli restaurant on social services, community hubs and the Battersea Park Road you’d find a sign NHS began to refer financially vulnerable decorated with stars and bubble writing people to the service and suddenly they advertising Waste Not Want Not (WNWN). were ‘flooded’ with customers. The food-aid network had been Hagos reports this to me without providing delicious, sustainable food complaint, ‘I scaled up what we were – aubergine parmigiana, gracefully doing before the lockdown – so we carried assembled focaccia bread with healthy on weekly food sharing, we held cooking splashes of olive oil, and a wide variety of workshops and community cooking vibrant salads – to Battersea locals for three sessions in Providence House Youth Club years at pop-ups and feasts. It was using the on Falcon Road.’ WNWN’s books recorded Corelli events to raise funds to distribute more than individuals and families free meals to people in the area. as regular customers between March and WNWN was launched in by August. Meanwhile, since the easing of Battersea resident Hadas Hagos after an lockdown restrictions, the group has been Battersea Park eye-opening trip to Covent Garden Market. operating a delivery service focusing on ‘I saw punnets of blueberries, avocados, those who are chronically ill, disabled, mushrooms, all going into the compost,’ immunocompromised or shielding. she says. Shocked, she teamed up with There are challenges. Hagos says that other locals to glean produce from the the group has had to crowdfund for vital market and run a monthly dinner for those resources like a refrigerated delivery van in the community who wanted to learn to transport food. But Hagos is optimistic. about sustainable food practices. That ‘I am grateful to live in such a caring area Battersea became the weekly fundraising pop-up on as Battersea,’ she says, explaining that the Tuesdays. Now the events are on pause and campaign has raised more than . – in the midst of the pandemic – WNWN is It’s no surprise WNWN is so supported. focusing all of its attention on providing In , it has demonstrated how to help care for local residents. vulnerable people and do your bit for Aydin Dikerdem At the start of the Covid- pandemic, sustainability at the same time. Long may has been a Labour Hagos was contacted by the market traders it continue. Jason Okundaye councillor for who, having lost business with restaurants, Find out more and donate at www.wastenotwantnot- Queenstown, offered her as much produce as possible to battersea.org Battersea since .

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 34 The Magic Love Local Garden pub ‘Every time friends from outside the area tell me something is happening in Battersea that they want to go to, it’s Capitan happening here. I’ve had some pretty Corelli special nights out on the sprawling sofas ‘There are few food spots and [in the] tucked-away corners that like this left in London. A real make up its large outdoor garden Italian trattoria with delicious (it has coverings for all seasons).’ traditional food. I once got given a 231 Battersea Park Rd. pot of handmade pesto, the flavourSloane Square of which I’ve never really got over.’ 132 Battersea Park Rd. PIMLICO Doddington and Rollo Community Pimlico Roof Garden ‘A raised-up oasis in the heart of the CHELSEA estate, and the first place I ever did any gardening! You feel like you’re in the future London should have. Set up and run by local residents, it grows fruit and vegetables all year round. Volunteers RIVER THAMES are welcome.’ Charlotte Despard Avenue.

Safari Restaurant ‘I was taken here by my friend BATTERSEA Abshir, who I’ve known since year 7. Battersea has a large Somali PARK community and you can try delicious Somali Battersea Park cuisine at Safari: from chicken escalopes to anjeero and homemade chilli sauce. STOCKWELL It’s currently at a temporary location on the high street.’ 140 Battersea High St.

BATTERSEA Stockwell

Wandsworth Road

Brian Barnes’s murals ‘I’ve known Brian for four years now. He’s lived in the area for decades and recorded its radical Clapham North history as well as the changes that have Clapham Junction taken place. His work can be found on Carey Gardens estate and ‘Battersea in Perspective’ is on Dagnell Clapham CommonNine Elms Street. Vauxhall Market Multiple locations. ‘On Sundays, New Covent Garden Wholesale Market opens up to Battersea hundreds of small traders. You can get Arts Centre literally anything. I come to treat myself ‘When me and my best mate were CLAPHAM to Jamaican fried dumplings. It’s in our teens, we were sent to do drama COMMON working-class, multicultural London workshops here to keep us out of trouble. We that hasn’t yet been built out.’ were not too happy about it, but by the end of it Nine Elms Lane. we rushed to the classes each week. I’ve seen CLAPHAM performances here that have changed my life. COMMON The relaxed café and bar are my go-to spots for catching up with people. Support Clapham South local theatres when they open!’ Lavender Hill. PERGODA: WILLY BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK; BAC: MORLEY VON STERNBERG VON MORLEY BAC: BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK; WILLY PERGODA: IMAGES

35 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Love Local

Life and loaves in Crouch End The beloved bakery that started from a kitchen table in north London

IN EARLY MAY this year something strange about it but I’d never had the guts to do it,’ room became a flour storage room and our started happening on a quiet street in says Sophia. This was their chance. dining room was the bakery. It took over our Crouch End. Twice a week, at allotted time Their neighbour said he’d spread the kitchen too – the amount of washing up was slots, people were queuing up at a local word and within a week of dropping off insane.’ Sophia already had a suitable oven resident’s front door. They were all there that first loaf, they decided to bake more from her baking classes, but they invested in for the same reason: they’d heard about and see what happened. ‘The loaves fridges, a work bench and a food mixer. ‘the sourdough people’. went immediately and those people told At their busiest, Sophia was baking That’s the nickname that local couple their friends,’ Sophia explains. ‘Within a close to loaves of bread a day, starting Sophia (right) and Jesse Sutton-Jones earned short space of time, people started queuing at am and baking eight or nine batches themselves during lockdown. It started with outside our house. These were people I’d throughout the day. ‘It was a steep learning just one loaf. In mid-April, a neighbour who never seen before, yet they came every week curve,’ she explains. ‘Working with kg of was self-isolating asked Sophia if she could and picked up their loaves as if that was the dough meant I had to completely relearn bake some bread for them. She was happy to only routine they’d ever known. That’s what everything. The whole game changes when do it. She’d grown up in Germanymany where her made it so sspecial.’p you increase your capacity.’ dad was a baker and he’d taughtught her how to Very qquickly,uic and with an eight- Five months on since that first loaf and make sourdough. month babbaby and two cats in tow, there are no longer queues outside their But when her neighbour asked if their flaflat became a micro bakery front door. Demand is as high as ever, but she’d consider making moree loaves called Sourdough Sophia. ‘Our they’re taking some time off while they for locals, it planted the seedd for ententireire house was covered in flour,’ plan a permanent bakery in Crouch End, something bigger. Sophia andnd JessJessee saysayss Sophia.S To keep up with freeing up their dining table for, y’know, had been running an onlinee shoshopp demdemand, they got deliveries eating at. There’s clearly an appetite for it: selling kitchen accessories and of kg bags of flour from they’ve already exceeded their k goal. doing online cooking Shipton Mill, who were If everything goes as planned, they hope to courses, but they were prioritising local and micro be open by November. ‘It’s like we’ve finally itching to do something bakeries during the Great found ourselves,’ says Sophia. Isabelle Aron HEATH/ALAMY MICHAEL BANNERS: PARSONS; ANDY IMAGE: MAIN new. ‘I’d always thought Flour Shortage. ‘Our guest www.sourdoughsophia.co.uk IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 122 20220200 36 Love Local

Alexandra Palace ‘Sitting on the grass and looking out over the city is one of my favourite things to do. There’s also a boating lake round the back where you can hire pedalos, which I feel gets neglected because everyone ALEXANDRA goes to look at the view, but it’s got a PARK certain charm to it.’ Alexandra Palace Way.

The Queens ‘A really nice pub with a tiny little beer garden out the back. It’s just reopening after lockdown; it’s been closed for quite a while. 46 Park Road We go for our staff party and they ‘It’s a homeware store and they put on a lovely meal for us.’ sell really cool plant pots, mugs, 26 Broadway Parade. Banner’s plates, pictures, frames, it’s the kind ‘A Crouch End staple for years. of place you’d expect to see in Coal I love that place. You always get a Drops Yard. I always admire the really big meal – in terms of portion stuff in their window.’ size per pound, that place delivers. 46 Park Rd. My favourite is the curried fish with coconut roti.’ PRIORY 21 Park Rd. PARK

CROUCH END PLAYING FIELDS

Bottle Apostle ‘A great wine shop. They’re Crouch End really helpful, even if you don’t Hardware Shop know much about wine. I got some ‘It’s got screws for days. You go in orange wine from there, which I hadn’t and you’re like, “I want this thing” tried before and they were really and they’ve always got it. They’re helpful at recommending which helpful guys and always patient with one I might like.’ customers who don’t know what 49 Park Rd. they want.’ 32 The Broadway.

Walter Purkis and Sons Crouch End ‘They run their own smokehouse out the back of the fish shop, which is 100 years old. I really like their smoked haddock fillets, but whatever is fresh and whatever they recommend that day is Time Out’s Love Local campaign supports Lewis Freeman is a sixth- always a winner.’ local food, drink and culture businesses generation baker who 17 The Broadway. in London. Find out how you can help the runs Dunn’s Bakery in places that make our city great. Crouch End. He has lived timeout.com/lovelocallondon in the area for years.

37 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Escapes

Edited by Ellie Walker-Arnott timeout.com/daytrips

Mellow gold Time to get cruching through mounds of fallen leaves. Here are nine of the UK’s most beautiful autumnal landscapes

THE ARRIVAL OF autumn is no Mar Lodge Estate reason to despair. Sure, it makes Aberdeenshire our almost entirely alfresco social A nature reserve in the middle of lives a little tricker to maintain the Cairngorms might just be the but we can make it work. There perfect place to soak up the season are crisp bright mornings, cosy in Scotland. It’s the largest nature evenings and pubs with open fires reserve in Britain, and contains to look forward to. Not forgetting four of the five highest mountains great swathes of yellow, orange in the UK. It’s also an autumnal and brown leaves to admire. These wonderland, with lochs and parks and woodlands around the evergreen forests framed by miles UK are about to become the most of glorious colour. scenic spots for super-wholesome, Free. www.nts.org.uk socially distanced strolls. See ya on the other side, summer. Westonbirt Arboretum Gloucestershire Bolderwood Autumn goes way over the top at Hampshire this Cotswold garden. Westonbirt The ancient woodlands of the New Arboretum is home to thousands Forest National Park are spectacular of tree species from all over the all year round, but there’s something globe, and they put on an incredible extra atmospheric about them in display of golds, pinks, glowing autumn. Take the Knightwood Oak reds and vibrant yellows as autumn or Bolderwood Radnor walking hoves into view. Don’t miss Acer trails to see a dazzling panoply of Glade or Maple Loop for extra eye- orangey shades. popping hues. Winkworth Arboretum Free. www.thenewforest.co.uk £11. Book in advance. www.forestryengland.uk

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 38 Plan more outdoorsy trips at timeout.com/walks

trails taking you through a canopy of golden beech trees or the moss- covered Low Scrubs woodland at the foot of the hill. Free. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Winkworth Arboretum Surrey Winkworth Arboretum is one colourful garden. Famous for its blaze of blooms in late spring, the landscape turns technicolour in the colder months as well. The liquidambar and maple trees are the boldest, but look out for bright berries and fungi too. £10. Book in advance. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Kielder Forest Northumberland A vast woodland that runs along the border between England and Scotland, Kielder Forest is scored with walking trails that take in the area’s dramatic and vibrant scenery. Fancy staying after dark? Head to the Kielder Observatory to cop a look Time for a at the autumn night sky, free from neigh-cation? light pollution. Bolderwood Free. www.visitkielder.com Grizedale Forest Cumbria RHS Wisley landscaped garden dotted with Grizedale Forest becomes a Surrey Autumn follies, temples and rare trees. patchwork of autumnal shades Seasonal events are off this year at Find forest floors covered in leaves at this time of year. Backed by Wisley but that won’t stop the trees goes way ideal for kicking and cosy spots for mountains and glassy lakes, the and shrubs from showing off. Visit picnics on dry days. woodland in the Lake District in October and November to crunch over the £13. Book in advance. www.nationaltrust.org.uk National Park boasts an enticing leaves underfoot and enjoy gaudy array of walks that take in ancient foliage in the garden’s Pinetum and top at this Coombe Hill beech trees, quiet valleys and Seven Acres sections. Cotswold Buckinghamshire crags with views of the ever- £14.95. Book in advance. www.rhs.org.uk You can get a stellar view of the changing scenery. ■ garden Chiltern Hills in all their autumnal Free. www.forestryengland.uk Stourhead glory from the crest of Coombe Wiltshire Hill. In fact, on a clear day you can Burnt orange and golden brown see all the way to the Cotswolds. By Ellie Walker-Arnott Who can’t wait to make like leaves are in abundance at Once you’ve had your fill, tackle a tree and leave. Stourhead, a huge, historical one of the many nearby walking

39 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London ‘THE HORROR FILM OF THE YEAR’

HEYUGUYS

A FILM BY ROSE GLASS

ONLY IN CINEMAS Edited by Phil de Semlyen timeout.com/film @timeoutfilm FREE WITH MUBI GO Watch ‘Saint Maud’ this week for free, with a MUBI GO subscription. Get a hand-picked cinema ticket every single week. Film Find out how at www.mubi.com/go

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

WHAT IS IT… A startling seaside wig-out about a devout nurse and her dying patient.

WHY GO… It’s the best British horror film since ‘Under the Skin’.

Director Rose Glass (15) 84 mins. In cinemas Oct 9.

FILM OF THE WEEK This British horroris godlike Saint Maud

WELCOME TO ‘The Exorcist’-on-Sea. This (Jennifer Ehle), a former dancer and minor celeb more from composer Adam Janota Bzowski). The brilliantly unsettling horror film sweeps in on who doesn’t intend to let her terminal illness get tactile sound design scuttles through your brain a humdrum English coastal town with a fierce in the way of a few last blowouts. ‘How is she?’ like the beetle that haunts Maud’s dank flat. cargo of religious mania, psychological power Maud asks her predecessor in the job. ‘A bit of a Ehle is great as the worldly, weary Amanda, games and the odd moment of nightmarish cunt,’ comes the reply. and in a just world, Clark would be winning ickiness. It will haunt your dreams and probably The ensuing dance between troubled ascetic awards for a remarkable piece of physical acting. put you off seaside holidays for ever. Somehow, and ciggy-smoking sensualist kicks off with It spans convulsions of divine ecstasy and a quiet it’s the work of a debut filmmaker – London shades of the psychological frictions of ‘Persona’, unravelling as Maud shuffles through the gaudy College of Communication grad Rose Glass a major influence on ‘Saint Maud’, and goes seafront arcades and pubs of the town (unnamed – because from its confidence and chutzpah, downhill fast from there. Maud sparks a mix of but filmed in Scarborough) convinced of her you’d expect its director’s IMDb page to be as pity, mockery and gratitude in her patient. She higher purpose. You suspect you know where it’s long as your arm. responds with a beatific compassion that masks all going to end up, but that drains it of precisely The earnest, deeply religious Maud (Morfydd something disturbing swelling inside her. none of its guttural power. I’ve seen ‘Saint Maud’ Clark) is a live-in nurse whose job in a hospital Like all the best horror filmmakers, Glass has twice and each time it found new ways to freak me recently went wrong in a mysterious but an almost symphonic control over mood and out. Take the leap of faith. ■ transparently awful way. The episode may or atmosphere. She splices in shocks that will delight may not have caused a breakdown: it’s hard to gorehounds, though you definitely don’t need to know where her piety ends and her psychological be a genre devotee to appreciate its clammy world, By Phil de Semlyen Who is never going to the seaside again. struggles begin. Her first private assignment or a score that seems to have shaken itself loose Ever.

PHOTO: ANGUS YOUNG ANGUS PHOTO: IMAGES takes her to the house of the spiky Amanda Kohl from some dark subterranean place (listen out for

41 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Film

Prep yourself for the London Film Festival

The new-look LFF kicks off tomorrow with films for all tastes. Festival director Tricia Tuttle picks a few to look out for

RUNNING A FILM festival in times McDormand, who kits out a van and like these is no simple task. But lives an itinerant life around the the BFI London Film Festival has US. Anyone who liked “The Rider”, figured out how to make it work: director Chloé Zhao’s last film, will a bunch of virtual screenings; a really love it. It has the same lyrical clutch of UK premieres in cinemas quality and sense of the American around the country; and an West. I think Regina King’s “One expanded reality/VR dimension Night in Miami” will be part of that may just make you feel the awards season, too. I’d really like you’re in ‘Tron’ (our words, recommend it.’ ‘Herself’ not theirs). All the same great new films, in other words, only The one for all the family absolutely no bothersome rolling ‘Wolfwalkers’ out of red carpets for anyone. ‘This is a really beautiful, mythical There are films screening family film from Cartoon her to help her do it. It’s a hopeful filmed version of David Byrne’s between October and Saloon, the Irish film that will give you all the feels.’ Broadway show, which is part , kicking off with animation company theatre, part concert. Spike Lee, who Steve McQueen’s behind “The The one for documentary directs it, is a great counterpoint: brilliant Breadwinner” lovers it’s David’s show but you’re always London drama and “The Secret ‘The Painter and the Thief’ aware that Spike is behind the lens.’ ‘Mangrove’. As of Kells”. ‘Everyone will love this one: it’s festival director The story is about an oil painter who has a The one for BFI Flare fans Tricia Tuttle complex but it is couple of works stolen from a ‘Ammonite’ explains, there’s accessible for the gallery. She confronts one of the ‘Francis Lee’s terrific follow-up to something for whole family.’ thieves in court and they become “God’s Own Country” closes the everyone in a friends – you watch that friendship festival. There’s a real physicality to line-up that takes in The one to lift develop over years. It’s a film about his films – you can taste the salt and Oscar possibles, docs, ‘Nomadland’ your spirits strangers connecting in unexpected smell the sea. It’s a tender love story comedies and family ‘Herself’ ways. Garrett Bradley’s “Time” is based on the life of palaeontologist animations. ‘It’ll make you feel bad to another one: it’s a story about love Mary Anning, who falls in love with start with but then it’ll make you and a strong woman who makes the a woman who comes to stay with The one that will win Oscars feel good! It’s co-written by Clare best of a terrible situation.’ her. Kate Winslet’s performance is ‘Nomadland’ Dunne, who plays the Irish mother up there with her very best.’ ‘There’s a lot of buzz around this of two daughters who escapes The one that will start a one – it won the Golden Lion at the an abusive relationship. With no (socially distanced) party The one if you need a laugh Venice Film Festival – and rightly support from the state, she decides ‘David Byrne’s American Utopia’ ‘Honeymood’ so: it’s terrific and it feels timely. It’s to build her own house and a ‘This one will have people dancing ‘Anyone who wants an out-and-out PICTURES SEARCHLIGHT NOMADLAND:

about a woman, played by Frances community comes together around – at home or in the cinema. It’s a comedy will enjoy this one by an IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 42 Film

The biggest films reviewed at timeout.com/ movies TIME OUT MEETS Phyllida Lloyd The ‘Mamma Mia!’ director on ‘Herself’, DIY and socially distanced festivals

‘Herself’ is about a woman who escapes an abusive relationship and builds a new home. Are you hoping it will help people stuck in similar circumstances? ‘We’ve already met people who have told us that they were a child when their mother left their father and ended up in emergency digs. We wanted the film to carry a message of hope but also acknowledge that change happens when a community comes together. We need our neighbours.’

What does ‘Herself’ mean to you as a title? ‘It was originally going to be called “Owned” but we were talking to some Americans and they couldn’t catch the word, so we worried it wouldn’t work in different accents. In Ireland, where the film is set, “Herself” is the word for the boss. It’s about a woman, Sandra (played by Clare Dunne), who becomes the boss of her own life, so the title grew out of that.’

You build a house in the film. Has that kindled a love of DIY for you? ‘Clare [Dunne] and I went on a course to learn how to build a timber-framed house and use these extremely dangerous power tools. It was us and 18 LFF guys. [What you see on screen] isn’t fake!’ ESSENTIAL INFO How are you going to celebrate your LFF screening? ‘It’s such a huge thing to be given the festival’s endorsement. We’re having to Zoom ourselves into How can I get the screening. It’s complicated and it’s going to be tickets? weird but we just feel lucky that people are stepping Head to www.bfi. out to see it.’ ■ Interview by Phil de Semlyen org.uk/lff to book ‘Herself’ plays at the BFI London Film Festival Oct 8-10 and is in virtual or physical cinemas Oct 16. screenings. Israeli director called Talya Lavie. It’s as if Nora Ephron made Martin How much does Scorsese’s “After Hours”: it’s set over one night and is full of freewheeling itcost? encounters as a newly married Tickets to see films couple go around Jerusalem looking in cinemas are for the husband’s ex-girlfriend.’ £14 and virtual screenings clock The one for our times in at £12, with ‘Limbo’ concessions. Look ‘It’s about four refugees on out for £5 25-and- a Scottish island waiting for under tickets and the outcomes of their asylum one or two free applications. It’s absurdist but with virtual screenings. a melancholy tone: people have compared its director Ben Sharrock Which London to Aki Kaurismäki, but I think he’s cinemas are more like [Palestinian filmmaker] involved? Elia Suleiman: there’s something BFI Southbank, Buster Keaton-ish about his Prince Charles comedy. The lead, Amir El-Masry, a Cinema, ICA, Ciné Londoner of Egyptian descent, is a Lumière, Barbican, rising star. It’s a beautiful film.’ ■ Curzon Mayfair and Interview by Phil de Semlyen Curzon Soho.

43 October 6 – 12 2020 Time Out London Film Harlem globetrotter Radha Blank’s Netflix debut is about to take her worldwide

RADHA BLANK’S FACE is about Tired of waiting for opportunities, to adorn a lot of Netflix accounts. she channelled her frustrations into Like, 193 million of them. ‘The term writing ‘The Forty-Year-Old Version’, “double-edged sword” comes to a life-imitating-art-imitating-life mind,’ says the New York playwright- story shot through with all the turned-filmmaker. ‘I’m wondering: creative compromise you’d expect When the world opens up again, am from a black-and-white, Cassavetes- I going to be able to ride the train riffing, Judd Apatow-title-stealing hip again? And I love taking the subway. hop comedy – ie none at all. ‘Artists I’m thinking: I wanted this and yet of colour are always encouraged it feels crazy.’ On Friday at exactly to write universally so that more midnight LA time, her debut film ‘The people have a way in,’ says Blank, Forty-Year-Old Version’ will land on ‘but the truer you are to your voice the streaming site globally and her the more original the work will be.’ mentions will probably catch fire. Netflix thought so too and bought it ‘It also means hearing from people after some rave Sundance reviews. whose opinion maybe I don’t value If she has one regret, it’s that the and who have very negative things to pandemic has robbed the film of its say about the film,’ she says. theatrical run (although it is showing There shouldn’t be too many. The in some London cinemas). ‘You Harlem native’s comedy (previewed don’t shoot on 35mm for people below) is super-sassy, sharply funny to watch on their iPhones – or and very pointed – about race, necessarily at home,’ she says,‘but gentrification, cultural gatekeepers, I have family around the world and grief, and that weird sound your for them, the platform becomes a knees make when you hit 40. She Blank is an overnight success spin-off of Spike Lee’s ‘She’s Gotta kind of digital art-house cinema.’ wrote it, directs, produces and stars story years in the making – except Have It’. But the early momentum Having her face on our TVs, well, in a very nearly autobiographical she isn’t. Not exactly. She has flagged and her thirties didn’t bring she can take or leave it. But having role as a playwright who reinvents already had a taste of the limelight. the success she’d hoped for. ‘I her story told means the world. ‘I herself as a rapper called She’s debuted well-received plays had a play called “Seed” almost wanted the film to be shared with a Radhamus Prime (sample track: off-Broadway (well, mostly: ‘My first ten years ago,’ she says, ‘which broad audience,’ she says. Mission ‘White Man with a Black Woman’s review in Time Out New York was a was a brilliant moment for me as accomplished. ■ Phil de Semlyen Butt’) as she deals with attempts little lukewarm,’ she laughs) and a playwright. I did think that things ‘The Forty-Year-Old Version’ is in cinemas now to water down her latest play. more recently wrote for the telly would go different for my career.’ and on Netflix from Oct 9.

NEW TO STREAMING

WELCOME TO THE THE RIGHT STUFF THE HAUNTING OF THE FORTY-YEAR- BLUMHOUSE It’s lantern jaws, BLY MANOR OLD VERSION Start Halloween tinfoil and a double If that jump scare If you took ‘ Mile’ month the right way helping of derring-do in ‘The Haunting of and made it about a with the first of four in this new serialised Hill House’ turned middle-aged female family-focused, account of America’s you into a human playwright trying to nerve-twanging films from horror infant space programme in the blancmange, steel yourself for muscle in on the rap game, it might super-producer Jason Blum. The late s. Like Philip Kaufman’s the sequel from its creator, Mike look a little like this Sundance award series kicks off with ‘The Lie’, in movie masterpiece of the Flanagan – a dark genius of long- winner. It’s a pitch-perfect intro to which Joey King (‘The Kissing same name, it takes Tom Wolfe’s form horror. Henry Thomas from Radha Blank, writer-actor-star of an Booth’) makes a fatal error and journalistic account of the Cold War- ‘Hill House’ (and ‘ET the Extra- autobiographical comedy-drama leaves her parents playing cover- fuelled space race as a springboard Terrestrial’) is back, this time as a that takes in creative compromise, up, and ‘Black Box’, a sci-fi-tinged to get under the skin of the Mercury man who hires a new au pair for his the Black experience, hip hop and yarn about a single dad (Mamoudou Seven, Nasa’s first astronauts. niece and nephew. The setting has theatre culture and a fair few big Athie) who forgets the old rule about A new generation of actors don the moved to England in the s, for a laughs in its exploration of New never undergoing an ‘experimental’ shiny space suits and Leonardo story based on Henry James’s gothic York’s not-that-rich and not-quite- medical procedure in a movie. DiCaprio is exec producer. chiller ‘The Turn of the Screw’. famous. TLDR? She’s great. SCHROTER/NETFLIX EIKE MANOR: BLY OF HAUNTING STUDIOS; AMAZON BOX, BLACK BLUMHOUSE: THE TO WELCOME PARK/NETFLIX; JEONG VERSION: FORTY-YEAR-OLD

Amazon Prime. From Oct 6. Disney+. Oct 9. Netflix. Oct 9. Netflix. Oct 9. IMAGES

Time Out London October 6 – 12 2020 44 TA St E s tOTALlY NOrMaL.