Travel & Outdoors

Wish You Were Here

Sun-kissed and gorgeous

Exploring the towns and villages hugging the (boat tours). The wheel he’s referring to belongs to a sleek black E26 shore of Lake in is a wonderful speedboat, crafted by Cranchi, post-lockdown treat, findsKate Wickers boatbuilders on for 150 years. Freddie doesn’t need to be ’m standing in Villa Balbianello with map room, smoking den and asked twice. We cut a surprisingly on the Lavedo Peninsula on private museum to house the many smooth 50 knots in a ride along the Lake Como staring at the fur artefacts used in his expeditions, and lake to where cliff-hugging villas under-garments worn by Guido wandering through his home you get perch below verdant mountains. Monzino, who led the first a sense that this was a man born in “That’s Villa Oleandra, George Isuccessful Italian ascent of Mount the wrong era, favouring dog sleds to Clooney’s place,” Claudio tells us, Everest. When he died in 1988 skidoos and fur to thermal. pointing to an enviable 18th century he bequeathed Villa Balbianello Willowy and split in two, the lake villa near the town of Lagio. “The to the Fundo Ambiente Italiano stretches 29 miles in length and 2.5 story goes that he crashed his Harley (Italian National Trust), and the miles at its widest point and it’s the Davidson in front of the house, fell in lavish gardens shaded by immense mid-section that is considered most The Villa del atmosphere of a magnificent private love with it and bought it.” We zip on sycamores have been used as a scenic, so the town of Tremezzo Balbianello home. Our suite has a separate living to 16th century Villa Pliniana where location for films such asCasino makes for the perfect base. I’m overlooking room, perfect for Freddie to sleep in, Rossini composed the heroic opera Royale and Star Wars. The villa, staying in Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Lake Como, and in the main bedroom there’s a ; played billiards; which sits on the site of a 13th century one of Italy’s most luxurious family- main; a street in canopied four-poster in front of oak- and Leonardo de Vinci studied the monastery, was built by Cardinal owned hotels, with my husband, Bellagio, above framed floor-to-ceiling windows flow of its irregular waterfall; before Angelo Durini in 1785, who had Neil, and 14-year-old son, Freddie. with views over to where the town arriving at 19th century Villa La secret passageways installed within “Welcome. Make yourself at home,” of Bellagio twinkles at night. We’re Cassinella, rumoured to be owned the walls, one of which ran (rather is the heartfelt cry on our arrival from presented with silk facemasks, a nod by Richard Branson. It’s an exquisite predictably) from his bedroom to Valentina de Santis, who inherited the to Como’s silk-producing history; and place, flanked by soaring cypress the guest suite. “The door couldn’t hotel from her grandmother. Despite in the marble bathroom, I discover trees, all quiet apart from an aproned be opened from the guest room. It its size (90 rooms in total), it has the another gift – a bespoke bottle of maid scurrying over the immaculate was only the cardinal that could Aqua di Como (scent of the lake) mossy lawns. surprise you with a visit,” our guide, perfume, created for the hotel by Gualtiero Marchesi, who died in Daniella, tells me, with a wink. When There’s a canopied four-poster in front Acqua di Parma. 2017, was the first Italian chef to be Monzino acquired the house, he of oak-framed floor-to-ceiling windows “Want to take the wheel?” asks awarded three Michelin stars and he created an indulgent retreat complete Claudio Valsecchi of Il Medeghino opened his restaurant La Terrazza

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at Grand Hotel Tremezzo in 2011. where fishermen cast nets for perch. SHORT HAUL 48 Hours in Among his signature dishes are Grand Hotel Tremezzo has two dripping di pesce (squid and carpet attractive pools; one secluded in a shells on a canvas of tomato and tropical garden at the rear, and the squid ink), which was inspired by other at TBeach, the hotel’s new 50s Mull the artist Jackson Pollock; and riso, inspired beach club, with its jaunty oro e zafferano (rice and gold with orange and white striped umbrellas Friday, midday saffron) – a bright yellow saffron and pool sunk into a pontoon Check into Shieling Holidays in risotto served on a black plate on the lake. It’s chic and fun, and Craignure (doubles from £60, https:// topped with a square of gold leaf. “Is beautifully captures the glamour of shielingholidays.co.uk). You will see it OK to eat gold?” Freddie sensibly the Italian riviera in its heyday. We it by the water’s edge sailing in from wants to know. “Only if you’re in a sip on Campari and watch the ferries, Oban. No tent pitching needed; you’re fancy restaurant,” I tell him, already pleasure boats and speed boats motor staying in their large ‘Shieling’ tents, enjoying what is, in essence, the most by, while above us the air gently pioneers of Scotland’s glamping delicious risotto. buzzes with small seaplanes giving scene. Last season, Bellagio, widely aerial tours. considered to be one of Italy’s most The poster girl for tourism on Lake 1pm that ends with Mull Cheddar and a beautiful towns, struggled to cope Como is photogenic 18th century Head into Tobermory for a seafood wee campfire dram. with the number of tourists. This Villa Carlotta, with its peaches and feast at Café Fish, with boat-fresh year, in the wake of Covid-19, it’s a cream exterior. It would normally shellfish the star. They have been Saturday, 10am more sedate scene. At the artisan be packed with day-trippers, but struggling to make things work with Calgary is one of the finest beaches gelateria belonging to Hotel there’s only a handful of other tourists Covid-19 regulations, so if they’re not not just on Mull, but in Scotland. Splendide, I order an apple pie ice- about, plus small lizards that scurry open enjoy a king scallop supper from Get there early to have the sands cream (an homage to the American away as we climb the unusual stone the waterfront takeaway van. It’s said to yourself. It may look like the and English tourists who first triple-layered scissor staircase, to be a favourite of Prince Charles. Caribbean, but the landscape is much holidayed in Bellagio in the 1950s), past arbors hanging with citrus older. and wander the pretty oleander- fruits to the villa entrance, which 2pm treed esplanade, past the town’s retro houses a collection of 18th century Stroll along Tobermory’s picturesque 1pm public lido, to the English-inspired art and sculpture. Beyond, there are waterfront, admiring the pastel-hued Fish and chips tempt alongside gardens at Villa Melzi. In August eight acres of botanical gardens to houses. venison burger at Taste of Mull. and September, the lake averages 23 explore, including a hilltop forest of degrees, and I carry our swimming bamboo and a fern grotto guarded by 3pm 2:30pm gear in case we fancy a spontaneous grotesques. Pop into Tobermory Chocolate Mull’s bigger hills can be testing so dip. Today, we swim out in front of As we slide into Varenna’s ferry for delicious hot chocolate and enjoy a more relaxed walk in Aros Hotel Serbelloni (the town’s grandest, terminal at 7pm, the town, which handmade takeaway choccies. Park, a verdant forest oasis on the though rather time-warped, sprawls from the lake to the hilltop fringes of Tobermory. lodgings), to scale the steps of a diving ruins of Castello di Vezio, is bathed 4pm platform. Slippery with fluorescent in amber light. We pass local kids Time for a wee dram at Tobermory 7pm green lake weed, at the top I lose chasing ducks in the stony shallows of Mountains of freedom Distillery. They offer tours and a well- Dine on pub grub within walking my nerve, leaving Freddie to jump the old harbour and cats snoozing on stocked shop. distance of your shieling at the with what Italians call spensierato the scalatinelli (staircase steps) that Craignure Inn. (without a care). lead to the upper areas of the town, as Nicole Whitton tries e-biking and foraging in guaranteed to deliver lifelong View over the Swiss Alps; 5pm At Restaurante Punto, we order we hurry along to the terrace of Hotel memories. It will also deliver thigh Nicole Whitton with an e-bike; a Nip up to the home of the legendary Sunday, 9am a local favourite, perch with rice du Lac – the perfect perch to watch and around the beautiful Swiss resort of Verbier burn and bum ache, but don’t let this lammergeier; foraged edible flowers Mull Cheddar, just outside Rise early for a wee bacon butty al flavoured with sage, which we eat the sun slip seductively away and put you off. The bike provides almost Tobermory. Look out for their fresco. Wander along the shoreline gazing out at the Triangolo Lariano raise a glass of prosecco to toast what estled in the Alpine provides access to a host of activities all the power, which is very much 1950s is a crowd-free way to take in increasingly fine Hebridean Blue too. looking out for otters. Or at least peninsula where the Como and has been a blissful post-lockdown glory of Switzerland’s for free or at significant discounts. needed on the sheer uphill stretches some spectacular views. Cherrie There is an honesty box if no one is CalMac piloting down the Sound of Lecco branches of the lake meet. holiday. n Valais canton, Verbier E-Biking up and down the Alpine But finishing the route still feels like a takes us on a day trip including a around at their shop. Mull. ■ A 20-minute walk over the hill, is stunningly beautiful. slopes is bound to get your adrenaline massive achievement. After all, why moderately challenging hike through Robin McKelvie down narrow cobbled lanes, brings Please check the latest Covid-19 But as is the case with so (and heart) pumping. I take part in let the bike take all the credit? a James Bond-esque underground 7pm us to the serene fishing hamlet of guidelines before travelling. Nmany places, Covid-19 has taken its the Verbier E-Bike Festival, which The festival finishes tomorrow, tunnel that serves as a museum, Enjoy a picnic as the sun sets over CalMac (www.calmac.co.uk) run Pescallo, where Mich Gandola from A double room at Grand Hotel toll – streets are quiet, nightclubs are provides signposted routes around but my guide, Jess Koon from MTB showcasing historical images of how Morven and Ben Nevis. Starring are regular ferries to Craignure on Mull Bellagio Watersports, is waiting. Tremezzo, sleeping up to two adults unusually empty and hotels welcome Verbier and Le Châble. I choose the Verbier (mtbverbier.com), offers the dam was built. the foodie goodies you picked up in from Oban. For tourist information Being close to the water brings and one child, from £497, including guests with hand sanitisers and face Rando Gourmande, a scenic route cycling packages throughout the year. On the way, we look out for Tobermory. Any night is a good one see www.visitscotland.com another perspective to Lake Como, breakfast (grandhoteltremezzo. masks. punctuated with four gastronomical Given I’m a double-whammy novice lammergeiers, a species of bearded and in kayaks we’re close enough to com). Ryanair fly from direct from But despite the lack of crowds, stops, each providing local treats to mountain biking and e-biking, Jess vulture. A pair have been spotted on see perch and pike swim, and grey Edinburgh to Bergamo on Verbier pulsates with an energy that’s such as pastries, meats, cheeses, sticks with me as the rest of the group the slopes around the dam – but they herons wade elegantly in the shadows selected days from around £29 return. a little at odds with its quiet aesthetic wines and local beers. (and a family with toddlers in tow) have plenty of space to hide. of an uninhabited craggy cliffside. For sailing, kayaking & speedboat of wooden chalets clustered cosily A bike ride such as this is whizz past. The festival caters to all Simon Wiget, director of Verbier Another day, we take a sailing trip excursions contact, between snow-topped mountains. levels of biking experience but does Tourisme, is spot on when he says: bargain breaks with Bellegio Sailing, drifting over www.bellagiosailing.com; www. After months of lockdown, Verbier’s require a high level of commitment to “We have big, open spaces, which is the deepest section of the lake at 414 Bellagiowatersports.com; www. vast spaciousness feels like an new challenges. what people need when they can’t metres near to the village of Nesso, lakecomoboattour.it exhilarating breath of fresh air – A half-day foraging course offers a gather together indoors.” Highland hospitality recently named one of the best places particularly after a day of travelling in unique opportunity to get up close The possibility of an adventure, to live in the UK. Sea View Rooms, a mask. The cliché of Switzerland as a and personal with edible plants. albeit a socially distanced one, is The 32-room four-star Bridge of including breakfast, start from £165. tonic for good health feels especially Foraging host Cherrie, of Cherries certainly a healthy relief. ■ Orchy Hotel is located on the A82, Call 01631 730 302 or see relevant right now. Walks (cherrieswalks.com), is a two-and-a-half hours from Glasgow www.pierhousehotel.co.uk Verbier is famed for its skiing and qualified Swiss-American Mountain Hotel Bristol (bristol-verbier.ch; +41 and Edinburgh. Rooms currently party-hard lifestyle. How this year’s Leader, and her walks have been 27 771 65 77) offers rooms from £120 start from £180, including a full Offer at Dukes season will fare is still anyone’s guess. voted TripAdvisor’s top activity in Le per night with breakfast. Scottish breakfast. The après ski scene looks unlikely, Châble. SWISS (swiss.com; operates up to 180 Call 01838 400 208 or see Mayfair hotel Dukes London has although Verbier Tourisme is in the It’s not hard to see why. Her passion weekly flights to Switzerland from www.bridgeoforchy.co.uk reopened with a special offer. Stay process of developing activities that for plants is contagious, and you’d be London Heathrow, London City, for two nights and you’ll get the third will cater to smaller groups. For now, hard pressed to find a more charming Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh Sea view at The Pierhouse for free, or stay for three and they’ll the area is making the most of its way to spend a summer morning (seasonal during summer) and chuck in the fourth. Nightly rates summertime outdoor activities. A bike ride such as this in the Alps. Surrounded by wooden Dublin from £52 one-way. On the shores of Loch Linnhe you’ll start from £183 per room, including If you stay one night or longer chalets and the gentle tinkling of The Swiss Transfer Ticket covers a find The Pierhouse Hotel & Seafood breakfast. See the website for their in Verbier, Val de Bagnes or La is guaranteed to deliver cow bells, the biggest challenge is round-trip between the airport/Swiss Restaurant. This small hotel and flexible cancellation policy. Tzoumaz, you’ll receive a free Verbier lifelong memories refraining from breaking into song. border and destination. Prices are £70 seafood restaurant is near seaside Call 0207 318 6580 or see Sunloungers by the pool and lake at Grand Hotel Tremezzo Infinite Playground (VIP) Pass +. It The Mauvoisin dam, built in the in second class and £130 in first class. village, Port Appin, which was www.dukeshotel.com

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