The Italian Lakes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lake Como & Around Why Go? Como. 104 In the shadow of the snow-covered Rhaetian Alps and Triangolo.Lariano. 109 hemmed in on both sides by steep, verdant hillsides, Lake Como (aka Lake Lario) is perhaps the most spectacular of Abbazia.di.San.. the three major lakes. Shaped like an upside-down Y, meas- Pietro.al.Monte. 112 uring around 160km in squiggly shoreline, it’s littered with Lake.Como.West.. villages, including exquisite Bellagio and Varenna. Where Bank . 113 the southern and western shores converge is the lake’s main Lake.Como.East.. town, Como, an elegant, prosperous Italian city. Bank . .119 Among the area’s siren calls are some extraordinarily Lake.Lugano. 122 sumptuous villas, often graced with paradisiacal gardens. Bellinzona. The mountainous terrain means that opportunities for tak- (Switzerland) . .129 . ing bird’s-eye views of the lake and its towns are numerous. And with a fraction of the visitors drawn here compared to Lake Maggiore or Lake Garda, Lake Como and its surround- ing area offer the traveller the chance to enjoy a real sense Best Places to of discovery. Eat ¨ Albergo Silvio (p111) ¨ Gatto Nero (p114) Road Distances (KM) ¨ Ristorante La Vista (p121) Bellinzona 91 ¨ Locanda dell’Isola (p115) ¨ Osteria del Gallo (p108) Como 31 60 ¨ Sale e Tabacchi (p122) Lecco 27 92 28 Lugano 63 29 32 60 Best Places to Stay ¨ Avenue Hotel (p199) ¨ Hotel Silvio (p200) Bellagio Bellinzona Como Lugano ¨ Hotel La Perla (p200) ¨ Hotel Gabbani (p201) ¨ Albergo Milano (p201) 101 Getting Around DON’T MISS The SS340 more or less shadows the western and eastern The view down to Var- shores of Lake Como, bypassing many of the smaller lake- enna and across the side villages which are served by smaller roads. Narrow lake from Castello di mountain roads climb up from Varenna, Gravedona, Cer- Vezio. nobbio, Argegno, Bellagio and elsewhere. Buses run from Como to most of the lake’s towns, passing through smaller villages en route, while public ferries connect most lakeside Best Lake Views towns (except those south of Varenna along the East Bank) ¨ with regular departures. Castello di Vezio (p122) ¨ Monte Bisbino (p114) 3 PERFECT DAYS ¨ Cima Sighignola (p116) ¨ Monte Brè (p125) Day 1: Como & Above ¨ Monte San Salvatore Take an early funicular up to Brunate to catch views of (p125) L Como and the lake under the rising sun’s rays. Back in A ¨ Sacro Monte di Ossuccio ke C Como, explore the old centre, making time for the Du- (p115) omo and to see the remarkable frescoes in the Basilica di Sant’Abbondio. It’s then time for lunch at Osteria del ¨ Brunate (p107) omo Gallo, after which you can head 7km around the lake to ¨ Peglio (p118) Cernobbio, to admire the pretty lakeside villas, followed & A by a drive up to Monte Bisbino, arriving in time for sun- roun set views over the lake. You could finish with a splendid meal at Gatto Nero. Best Escapes ¨ Val d’Intelvi & Erbonne d Day 2: Bellagio & Villa Carlotta (p116) C . Catch a ferry from Como to Bellagio, where you could omo ¨ Corenno Plinio (p120) take a room and spend the morning discovering the gardens of two fine villas and the topsy-turvy beauty of ¨ Valtellina (p119) the town itself. Lunch at Albergo Silvio before taking a ¨ Valsassina (p123) car ferry to Cadenabbia for an afternoon visit to nearby ¨ Dorsale (p110) Tremezzo’s Villa Carlotta. Car ferries returning to Bel- lagio run late into the evening. ¨ Rifugio Menaggio (p118) Day 3: Varenna & the East Bank From Bellagio, jump on another car ferry to Varenna, a rival in beauty to Bellagio. You could spend the bulk Resources of a day here, especially if you include a walk up to the ¨ Bellagio (www . Castello di Vezio to gaze back down on Varenna. Those bellagiolakecomo com). with wheels can easily head north for the medieval Everything you need to hamlet of Corenno Plinio and, just further on, the lovely know about lovely Bellagio. Abbazia di Piona, where you can stay if you don’t want ¨ Lago di Como (www . to turn back. lakecomo org). One-stop portal for Lake Como’s attractions and services. ¨ Lugano (www lugano. tourism ch). Comprehensive Where to Stay tourist office site on Finding vacant rooms around Lakes Como and Lugano can Lugano and its immediate be problematic in key places (including Como, Bellagio, surrounds. around Tremezzo and Varenna especially) in July and Au- ¨ Ticino (www ticino. ch). gust and, to a lesser extent, at Easter. Not surprisingly, these Region-wide information on also happen to be the most desirable places to stay along the Switzerland’s corner of the lakeshore, although Lugano is also lovely. Bookings should lakes region. be made at least a month (and sometimes even further) in advance..