Workshop 4 cotton and supply chain justice in public procurement: Why and how?

Bremen 27th March 2014 Introduction to Fairtrade cotton What is it about?

. Why Fairtrade cotton? What benefits does it bring to producers? Please see all the answers in this short clip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOj1hb2_7_8 The Cotton Journey How do we get from seed to shirt?

French postmen wearing Fairtrade- Farmer growing cotton certified cotton T-shirts

David & Goliath Intensive Farming Traditional Farming

 Average cultivated area: 450 ha in USA, 2,000  Average cultivated area: between 0.5 to 8 ha in Brazil ha

 Monoculture  Polyculture (food security))

 Often irrigated  Generally rainfed  Mechanised picking  Manual picking  Average of 10 chemical treatements (insecticides, herbicides, defoliants, growth  Average of 4-5 insecticide treatments regulants) Cotton plant Cotton harvest Ginning Spinning Knitting Dyeing Sewing Cutting Printing Embroidery Street weepers in Paris wearing French Postmen wearing Fairtrade- Fairtrade-cotton certified uniforms certified cotton T-shirts The Why?

How partners of the “Cotton on to Fairtrade procurement” project have engaged with public procurers and the public on Fairtrade cotton

Bremen 27th March 2014 Workers Rights Consortium http://peopleandplanet.org/sweatshopfree/wrc

Plate-forme Française pour le Commerce Équitable French Fair Trade Platform http://www.commercequitable.org/ Fair trade cotton market in France

 14 M€ sales for fair trade cotton in France (+/- 12% of world sales amounting to more than 1T)

1,6 Million pieces sold in FT cotton

70% of the market= BtoB

 around 1 million € for the public sector

Number of agents wearing FT workwear City of Paris: 11000 (1/3) Region Britany: 3000 persons (100%) Region Pays de la Loire: 2500 persons (80%) La Poste: more than 2 million pieces ordered since 2006 And as well National railways, ministry of Defense, Region Nord-Pas de Calais, Rhône-Alpes, Aquitaine (high school staff), cities of Grenoble, Reims, Bourg en Bresse, Tassin la Demie-Lune…. Raising awareness among public procurers

Training and practises sharing for procurers and elected officials More than 300 persons trained in 2013 on fair trade, fair trade towns campaign and fair trade public procurement

Tools for procurers Practical guide for professionnal procurement issued 2014

Observatory on fair trade public procurement 10 tenders identified and shared on textile in 2013 Cotton on to Fairtrade

• 9th Annual Supporters Conference Theme ‘Cotton on to Fairtrade and Procurement ’

• Officially opened by Minister Jan O’Sullivan TD, Minister of State with responsibility for Overseas Development Assistance.

• 70 Fairtrade groups represented.

• Presented research and information on public procurement in Ireland, distributed 70 tool kits with cotton leaflet and 16 page cotton booklet.

• Media Trip to Chetna Organic in India(The Director of Fairtrade Ireland, Peter Gaynor, travelled to cotton producing organization Chetna Organic in India with a prominent Irish journalist, Dr Oliver Moore).

• 2012 ‘Take a Step for Cotton Farmers’ was launched with the President of Ireland Michael D Higgins in Áras an Uachtaráin with guest Samatha Valluri, Senior Programme Officer with Chetna Organic. Take a step for cotton farmers How far will you go for cotton farmers in 2013? • 10th Annual Fairtrade Towns, Stakeholders and Supporters Conference

• Fairtrade FORTNIGHT ‘Go Further for Cotton Farmers in 2013’

• Public Procurement Presentation and Q&A at annual conference.

• Case studies and procurement leaflet distributed to 60 groups

Cotton Exhibition • Fairtrade Ireland worked with Sean Hawkey in the preparations and planning of the trip to Senegal in February 2013. A photographic exhibition was prepared in late February and launched during Fairtrade Fortnight 2013.

Attended by 80 fashion designers, students and activists, the event featured workshops and a panel discussion on cotton production, business and procurement. 40 Cotton Business/Procurement toolkits were distributed at this event. The panel was chaired by journalist Susan Morrell from the Sunday Business Post. The event was filmed and distributed via you tube. Irish Rail go 100% Fairtrade coffee on all trains they are considering other Fairtrade items including cotton Extensive local and national newspaper coverage of Fairtrade Fortnight

Advertising value of the coverage was equivalent to over half a million euro (Kantar Media)

Guests from Senegal engaged with 15 schools while in Ireland, reaching 500 students

Over 25 thousand cotton leaflets distributed Fairtrade Ireland produced 300 toolkits and distributed 250 toolkits to schools There were 557 unique visits to the schools cotton resource online

Cotton Photo Exhibition shown in 8 locations to date (Limerick City Council hosted cotton exhibition as part of Limerick City being capital of Culture). Launched cotton section on Fairtade website

Presented procurement guide at conference

The Power of You campaign for Fairtrade Fortnight 2014 Worked with national TV broadcaster to deliver 2 X 5 min clips on national television during Fairtrade Fortnight, estimated views around quarter of a million. Cotton leaflet redesigned and 7000 copies distributed

Dublin City Council demonstrated its commitment to Fairtrade by distributing cotton materials to libraries, schools and sports facilities across its 5 areas. (Have committed to touring the cotton exhibition in county and city libraries later in 2014 and 2015.

There was extensive local and national newspaper coverage during Fairtrade Fortnight, (we will commission a survey) - Estimated media value generated should be well over a million. The how?

How public authorities in are planning to and already purchasing Fairtrade cotton

Bremen 27th March 2014 Case City of Ghent: mapping excercise

Our actions for Fair Trade - Fair Trade Town (since 2004, first in Belgium) - progressive policies on sustainable procurement - several CSO’s act on socially responsible trade & consumption - intensive awareness raising campaigns on Fair & Ethical trade

Our analysis today Classical segments are covered, we need to take a next step Demand side needs to grow, but this is not the only bumb in the road Supply side needs to grow accordingly

Our limitations Lack of in depth knowledge and a comprehensive network of actors in specific segments (for-profit generally being a blind spot). Case City of Ghent: mapping excercise

Our pilot project: Sustainable & Fair textiles

(1) Mapping excercise (partially outsourced) ° analysing potential of textile segment to contribute to awareness raising and activation of consumers on sustainability & ethical trade. ° mapping interests, posibilities, limitations of all relevant stakeholders

(2) Two year campaign (close cooperation with Fair Trade) ° awareness raising and activation of private and public consumers ° multi-stakeholder involvement (support base & activation supply side) ° give boost to supply of sustainable & fair textiles on local market Case City of Ghent: mapping excercise

Our contact details:

Wouter Boesman Coordinator office of North-Southcooperation City of Ghent [email protected] Bilan chiffré Ville de PARIS • Volumes Ville de PARIS entre 2009 et 2012

VILLE DE PARIS 2009 2010 2011 2012

CHIFFRE D’AFFAIRES 295 405 € 372 662 € 418 038 € 329 752 €

NOMBRE DE PIECES 18 196 23 269 25 678 20 573

VOLUME COTON FIBRE 11 tonnes 9,9 tonnes 11,5 tonnes 12,5 tonnes

+12,2% +10,4% +6,7% +26,2% +15,6% +27,9% -10,1% -10,4% -11,6%

2009 2010 2011 2012 2009 2010 2011 2012 2009 2010 2011 2012

CHIFFRE D'AFFAIRES NOMBRE DE PIECES VOLUME COTON FIBRE

La Ville de Paris & le coton équitable: bilan chiffré 2012 Achats de coton équitable de la Ville de PARIS : • Equivalent de Prime de Développement versée • à l’organisation de producteurs

Equivalent des achats en volume de coton graine

VILLE DE PARIS 2009 2010 2011 2012

VOLUME COTON FIBRE 11 tonnes 9,9 tonnes 11,5 tonnes 12,5 tonnes

VOLUME COTON GRAINE 26,3 tonnes 23,6 tonnes 27,3 tonnes 29,2 tonnes

1kg coton fibre = 0,42kg coton graine

Equivalent du montant de la prime versée aux organisations de producteurs

1,458 € 1,315 € 1,366 € 1,182 € Depuis 2009 : 5 321€ versés

2009 2010 2011 2012 Montant de la Prime : 0,05€/kg de coton graine

La Ville de Paris & le coton équitable: bilan chiffré 2012 Evolution des ventes de produits en coton équitable 2006-2014 (en nombre de pièces)

400,000 367,734

350,000 326,540 299,045 293,687 300,000

250,000 224,007 222,873

200,000 192,670 187,025

150,000 110,513 100,000

50,000

- 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 (prévisions) Evolution du budget achat de produits en coton équitable 2006-2014 en euro HT

3,500,000 €

3,000,000 € 2,889,788 € 2,587,155 € 2,500,000 € 2,224,115 €

2,000,000 € 1,611,372 € 1,500,000 € 1,229,262 € 1,223,507 € 1,030,591 € 997,609 € 1,000,000 € 644,207 € 500,000 €

- € 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 (prévisions) Thank you for your attention

Elba Estrada

Email: [email protected]

Website: http://www.fairprocurement.info/